Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 🙁

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 .

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YouTube:  Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares  (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria 🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau lunch (almoço) has a fixed price of 35 € per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere 🙂
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb) (!)
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (25 ).  🙂
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

Facebook

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 
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Entrance bakery Doce Mila, area Mouraria Lisbon

Great place for breakfast!

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

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Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

€ 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes € 5,50 –  € 7,50. Rice € 1.50. Bottle of water € 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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Lisbon LX FACTORY: creative cultural area, restaurants & Sunday hippie chic market

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon: restaurants in summertime & Sunday market

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history.

YouTube      More information

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

November 11, 2019. Margriet de Vrieze, restaurant/cafe O LOTE

Every Sunday an open air LX market is held (from 11.00 – 19:00), selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube Sunday LX market  Facebook

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon & restaurant  A Praça

Several good restaurants & affordable prices

Lively, exciting cultural area full of art studios, fashion , bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open. LX factory is a cool hangout zone 🙂

More about shops

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. ‘read  slowly’, YouTube) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook
 

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon: Carmo church ruins & lounging

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado in Lisbon can be found at a surprising location: behind the ruins of convent Convento do Carmo

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Graça district

Two historical monuments of Lisbon

The terraces around the Carmo church are a bit hidden in the center of Lisbon, between two historical monuments : convent Convento do Carmo and  Santa Justa Elevator, both very popular tourist attractions.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & Carmo church

10 minutes walk from here there’s TOPO rooftop restaurant & open air bar, located on the 6th floor of square Martim Moniz Shopping Center, with spectacular views of the  castle of Saint George ( São Jorge) and a part of the city.

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon

TOPO Chiado esplanade with bar,  and a restaurant on a higher level where dishes are served, like snacks, salades and burgers.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Santa Justa Lift

Carmo Convent Lisbon & horror of earthquake in 1755

Carmo Convent is an old gothic cathedral that was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and fire that destroyed much of Lisbon. The ruins represent a memory of that tragedy.

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Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture: Georges Jansoone, Wikipedia

Archaeological museum 

An archaeological museum is housed in the old altar and has an eclectic collection of treasures that include eerie South American mummies.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture:  Wikipedia

From 1 – 30 June 2018: The ruins of the Convento do Carmo will be the screen for a video mapping that will explore more than 600 years of Lisbon’s and Portugal’s history (also in English). MORE…

Article LisbonLux: more info and pictures…

Tickets & visitor information

Square Largo do Carmo Lisbon. More……

Across from the convent entrance is a monumental drinking fountain (late 1700s).

Bar restaurant TOPO Chiado
OPEN: every day from 12:00 – 24:00
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TOPO Chiado Lisbon & friend Margarethe de Vrieze Sept. 2017
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National palace Queluz Lisbon: sexual orgies, juicy stories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil.

Information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire & smallpox

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria‘s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia

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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! 🙂 😉 Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

Tram 28 Lisbon Martim Moniz: long lines, best stops & pickpockets

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00-18:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol

Famous viewpoint & tourist attraction,  on the background Museum of Decorative Arts, really worth a visit!

Starting point tram 28, 2018

Square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Pickpockets, take care!

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care! Leave your bag in the hotel/apartment, just take some money with you in your pocket !

Open air elevator square Martim Moniz near starting point tram 28

Open air elevator connecting Martim Moniz square to the streets around St George Castle

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased since a few years, which means tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
Starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28, square Praça Martim Moniz 

All stops vintage tram 28

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Tram 28 , Lisbon

Noisy Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon: polution & eco-friendly silent Tuk Tours

The last few years Tuk-Tuk cars are gaining more popularity among tourists in Lisbon. You see them everywhere in the city: cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly !  🙁  🙁

Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria Lisbon & an eco-friendly Tuk Tuk

Mouraria is a very old neighborhoud with narrow streets where big tourist buses cannot get through.

UPDATE 2018: Electric charging points will soon be installed in Lisbon and diesel tuk tuks will be banned

🙂  🙂

YouTube Movie Tuk Tuk Tour Lisbon

November 2018: tourist guide Josephine & small problem with a Tuk Tuk car

‘Do you like to Tuk-Tuk with me’ ? Voulez-vous Tuk-Tuk avec moi? 😉  I saw a car with a led display using this text in several languages. These little Tuk Tuk vehicles are most ideal for short trips and sightseeing and capable to drive through the small streets in the ancient historical neighborhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria.

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Eco Tours Martim Moniz may 14 1

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: lots of tourists are waiting for legendary electric tram 28

Square Martim Moniz : starting point of the legendary old tram 28

Nowadays several owners of Tuk-Tuk cars are trying to persuade you to take a tour (from 45 – 60 euro for one hour), but a ride with ‘elétrico’ tram 28 will also bring you to most tourist attractions of Lisbon….and much cheaper (around 4 euro pp).

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Tuk-Tuk cars, origin & polution

The Tuk-Tuk cars often run on diesel and some very old ones are imported from Asia. Auto rickshaws of Southeast Asia started from the knockdown production of the Daihatsu Midget which had been introduced in 1957. There are too many of them in Lisbon  🙁  🙁

Tuk Tuk Lisboa Baixa sept 14

Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon downtown city center & elegant shopping area Rua Garrett

Young enthusiastic drivers & Tuk-Tuk cars

One of the advantages of the tuk-tuk cars in Lisbon is the possibility making trips with young and enthusiastic people, who speak several languages. Most of them are especially trained to talk about the historic sites of Lisbon.

Eco friendly Tul Tours Lisbon f1 2

Eco friendly Tuk car in Lisbon, historic area Alfama

Eco (and silent!) Tuk Tours Lisbon

I have no commercial interest but maybe this article helps to make Lisbon cleaner!  😉 😉

Eco Tuk Tours Lisbon narrow streets old town Lisbon 3

Eco friendly Tuk Tour old town Lisbon: narrow streets of Alfama

Unique former Palace Chiado Lisbon (1781), elegant dining areas & history

The atmosphere is great in this former palace in the heart of Lisbon. Once the recidence of a nobleman who loved to party, now everyone is welcome to admire the beautifully restored rooms, while enjoying fine food and drinks.

Welcome! Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & very nice waiter Aélio

History: Barão (Baron) Joaquim Pedro Quintela, 1st Conde de Farrobo

This elegant palace in Chiado (name of a square and its surrounding area) in Lisbon was built in 1781, where the aristocracy and bons vivants danced, enjoyed lavish banquets and admired new works of art. Baron de Quintela was born in this palace.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon (built in 1781 & a mobile phone….. )

Baron de Quintela: excesses and inordinate feasting

The future 2nd Baron of Quintela and 1st Conde of Farrobo was born in this palace, on 11 December 1801. Despite his importance in political, social and cultural life in Portugal at the time, he will always be remembered for his excesses and revels.

And intrinsically associated with the palace is the famous Portuguese expression ‘farrobodó‘ (from ‘forrobodó’ which literally means having a great party 😉 ).

More about the palace and its history…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016

Renewed Palácio Chiado opened February 2016: fine dining & entertainment

The former home of Baron Quintela opened to the public under the name Palácio Chiado.
The restoration works took more then one and a half year. The historic rooms nowadays host alternatives for fine dining and other forms of entertainment for Lisbon residents and visitors. The palace will also have a varied cultural program.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, 1st floor April 2016

7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts

On the ground floor is a bar, with tables for dining, but simply chill out with a drink is also a possibility. There are seven chefs and their 7 gastronimical concepts, from sushi to burgers, and about 250 seats. The idea is to grab the plate and sit where you want.

It feels a bit like Time Out Ribeira Market in a more sophisticated setting.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & tea for 2 and a chocolate cake

Tea bags & small wooden cake forks

We decided to order tea for two (1 st floor) and a small chocolate cake to share, because we just had lunch.

In this elegant palace with grandeur and beautiful frescoed ceilings we expected an elegant soft pastel designed tea set and gold colored spoons, but not just teabags to dip in our cups and small wooden cake forks to eat the cake?  😉 😉

Chá (tea) for 2 persons: 4 euro. Bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) 2.50 euro

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & one of the beautiful frescoed ceilings

Restaurants:

The historic salons of the Palácio Chiado now host seven prestigious fine dining area’s.

Traditional Portuguese snacks (petiscos), cocktails & sparkling wines with fish and shellfish, hamburgers, steaks, light and healthy meals, seafood and sushi.

More details about the restaurants

palace-chiado-lisbon-tapas-erika-reusens

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & Erika Reusens

Palácio Chiado Lisbon: really worth a visit!
Rua do Alecrim, 70 – Lisbon
Wonderful Website (also in Enlish)   FACEBOOK
Sunday till Wednesday from 12:00 – 24:00
Thursday till Saturday from 12:00- 02:00

Video inauguration of the Chiado Palace with hundreds of guests

Despite occupying a considerable area of Rua do Alecrim, the Palace has only one entry, at number 70.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon

Baron Quintela Room for private events (your own aristocratic party? 😉  )

Seating 16 to 25, Quintela Room can be hired for private events, for a discreet meal, a dinner with friends, or professional events. More…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & dining area

Bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon: Ginja liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

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Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and Lisbon’s first fado singer
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
June 2019, Artur Domingos & Gabrielle
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Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
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Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: tram 28, dancing & aphrodisiacs

Update January 2019: unfortunlately the streetfood kiosks disappeared on this square 🙁  , soon plans will be announced about the ‘new look’.

At this square there’s the starting point of the legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction.

Square Martim Moniz : Kiosk ‘A Preta’ (‘The Black’) : João (Johnny) and his sister Luiza Gabriel

Kiosk with a tropical touch. João and his sister Luiza (DJ Lady G Brown) serve super good hamburgers, delicious pinchos (meat on a stick), salades and fresh juices. They were born in Angola, a former colony of Portugal (from the 16th century to 1975). They moved to Lisbon in 1982. Johnny worked a few years in Amsterdam and he speaks a little Dutch (‘lekker!‘)

Kiosk ‘A Preta’ Square Martim Moniz Lisbon; hamburger with salad and potatoes € 5,50. Delicious! Salad: 4.00 €

Square Martim Moniz, located in the most multicultural area in Lisbon is nowadays a place where you can enjoy a light (also vega) meal in the sun: a meeting of cultures that will host delicacies from the four corners of the world, in the weekends there’s a market selling biological products, shops, music and shows.

Castle of Saint Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge ) overlooking square Martim Moniz Lisbon

Here you can eat samosas, or a pizza, or ice cream, or a hamburger, or a vegetarian snack … drinking a cold beer, listen to live music or a DJ and enjoy the warm summer evenings. The Castelo de São Jorge overlooking the historical centre of Lisbon, and the entire square has a view of the castle.

Square Martim Moniz : vegetarian kiosk Erva & Carla Contige

Kiosk with green cuisine: vegetarian, vegan and macrobiotic specialities, made with fresh ingredients and prepared with love by Carla Contige…. You must try the salad, full of fruit, greens and seeds, or a Vega burger (€ 5).

Square Martim Moniz : kiosk mr. Leader (BBQMM)

Kiosk with a cook of Chinese origin. I tasted his creation of an empadão, a mix of minced meat and mashed potatoes.

Empadão (pie) mix: minced meat with mashed potatoes, linguiça (smoke cured pork sausage seasoned with garlic and paprika), bacon an dried chili peppers

Delicious! ( 3.50 euro)

Square Martim Moniz Mercado de Fusão

Aphrodisiacs and liqueurs like Licor de Merda (made of shit)  😉

The Liqor de Merda was born in 1974. It is a Portuguese alcoholic drink and the literal translation is “Shit liqueur”. Portugal went through a turbulent period marked by the struggle bewteen left and right. It was made to “honour” the government and, despite being a milk licor, it is said that it’s made with the best different types of shit.

Square Martim Moniz Kiosk ‘A Preta’ : here you can enjoy sun and music (DJ is Rycardo)

YouTube Square Martim Moniz Lisbon

On Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ ( Soul, Funcky, Reggae, World Music, Jazz and more..) to liven up the square and to get you in the mood for the weekend.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: people are invited to dance for ONE BILLION RISING

There’s also a stage on the square, always ready to host concerts, lectures, workshops and much more….. A Fun Track is also available in one of the kiosks, which rents pedal karts, streetsurfing boards, scooters, skateboards and roller skates for both children and adults.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, Christmas period

Every day the kiosks are open from 10:00 till midnightOn Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ . Every Saturday and Sunday a Fusion market is held here, Mercado de fusão (10h às 19h), bringing together the Martim Moniz retail trade with famous shops in the city.

Near this square is the starting point of the legendary tram 28.

Knight & hero Martim Moniz

Stylized depiction in the square Martim Moniz metro station

Hotel Mundal rooftop terrace Ans de Graaf Jan 16

Saint Jorge Castle Lisbon: view from rooftop terrace hotel Mundial square Martim Moniz & Ans de Graaf from Holland

History Saint Jorge Castle & hero Martim Moniz

Who was Martim Moniz? He was a hero! He sacrificed himself in 1147. According to the legend, Martim Moniz was a knight participating in the Christian invasion force, led by king Afonso I of Portugal. At one point in the siege of São Jorge Castle, he saw the Moors closing the castle doors. He led an attack on the doors, and sacrificed himself by lodging himself in the doorway, preventing the defenders from fully closing the door.

Rob Plews December 2012 Praca Martim Moniz kiosk A Preta

Friend Rob Plews: square Martim Moniz Lisbon 2016

Lisbon’s Tagus river terrace Portas do Sol, exceptional location & viewpoint Santa Luzia

Terrace ‘Portas do Sol’ (Gates to the Sun) is located in Lisbon’s historical center, close to the famous viewpoint (miradouro) with the same name, at Largo das Portas do Sol.  A coffee , cocktail bar and restaurant, and an exceptional location.

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon Tagus view 5 lounge sofas

The lounge area of Portas do Sol, September 2010

Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus! After visiting the nearby  São Jorge Castle (the Castle of St. Jorge),  this is a place where you can sit down, chill out and enjoy the beauty of Lisbon.

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon 2

Entrance Porta do Sol cafe, bar/cafe and restaurant, 1000 m2 terrace

This cafe/bar and restaurant is very easy to reach. It has direct access on the tram 28 which is the more touristic of the Lisbon trams.

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon Alfama Tagus view 4 lounge sofas

The lounge area of Portas do Sol Lisbon

Portas do Sol is  a lovely spot to sit down and relax with sofas and soft lounge-music, a place during the day where you can hang out and have coffee and snacks.

The lounge area of Portas do Sol Lisbon, in love! 🙂

They serve wines, cocktails, champagne and menu’s.

Live music with a DJ on Fridays and Saturdays. Beautiful bar with crystal chandlers and chairs in art deco and romantic style (250m2).

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon 1

Open daily from 10am to 12pm. Fridays, Saturdays and nights before a public holiday until 2am.

Website Portas do Sol.  Address: Largo das Portas do Sol, Beco de Santa Helena, Lisbon

Portas do Sol terrace Alfama Lisbon 4 view

Portas do Sol ‘s  terrace/lounge area

Seen from the nearby famous viewpoint with the same name, a very popular place for locals and a famous tourist attraction. One of the most beautiful places in Lisbon!

Lisbon viewpoint Portas do Sol by night

Viewpoint (Miradouro) Portas do Sol Alfama Lisbon, by night

The Belvedere Portas do Sol is a balcony space that all people of Lisbon are proud to have at their disposal. Magnificent view of Lisbon and the typical Alfama district that spans several narrow, winding streets to the river Tagus.

Portas so SOl viewpoint miradouro Alfama Lisbon cruise ship

View from the nearby small terrace

Located in between several highlights of Lisbon (like the viewpoint of Santa Luzia) , the Portas do Sol miradouro is the terrace that every person living in Lisabon would like to have at home…..

Portas so SOl viewpoint miradouro Alfama Lisbon statue Saint Vincent

Statue of São (Saint) Vincent, Portas do Sol

There is also a statue of Saint Vincent holding a boat with two ravens, the symbols of Lisbon. Saint Vincent of Saragossa, better known locally as Saint Vincent of Fora, is the patron saint of Lisbon.

Largo das Portas dol Sol Lisbon Museum of decorative arts

Largo das Porta do Sol, and the former city palace, Museum of Decorative Arts

In this wonderful 17th C. former city palace, currently houses the Museum of Decorative Arts. Anyone interested in decorative arts in general and the Portuguese Empire in particular will find this collection fascinating. Beautiful azulejos (tiles)!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

The popular tram 28 (video) stops near the Museum and the viewpoints

If you like to have a good impression of the historical city of Lisbon, a very good idea is taking this typical little trolley, ‘eléctrico 28. This legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. Of course you can hop on and hop off.

Miradouro Santa Luzia Alfama ancient tiles and viewpoint

The nearby viewpoint Miradouro of Santa Luzia

Various small gardens along the edge of the walkway are filled with beautiful local flowers during the spring and summer months.

Lisbon Miradouro Santa Luzia by night view roofs Alfama and river Tejo

Viewpoint Miradouro de Santa Luzia by night

This is a very popular look-out point from the Alfama area of Lisbon, next to the Santa Luzia Church.

Lisbon viewpoint Santa Luzia tiles2

Viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Luzia – church

On the wall of the church are two beautiful tile panels (azulejos): one of Lisbon’s majestic Square Praça do Comércio before the earthquake in 1775, and another one showing the Christians attacking (the nearby) Castelo de São Jorge (Saint George’s Castle) in 1147.

Miradouro Santa Luzia Lisbon Alfama azulejos

Miradouro Santa Luzia

Azulejos (tiles) have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. This place is a wonderful tile treasure!

Lisbon Restaurant Miradouro Sta Luzia Alfama

Restaurant ‘Miradouro Sta Luzia’ near the viewpoint, a very popular tourist place.