Popular Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao’ Lisbon: terrace, good local food & fleamarket

After browsing Lisbon’s famous flea market  Feira da Ladra, it’s a good idea to enjoy a lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao’ (Pantheon), located above the market. One of my favorite places in Lisbon 🙂

Terrace cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’  Lisbon

Legendary fleamarket Lisbon

From the terrace you can see a part of Lisbon’s legendary fleamarket, and the Pantheon, in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

May 2021: no lockdown anymore in Lisbon! & friend Margriet 🙂

This popular restaurant serves real Portugese food for a good price (less than 15 euro).

Lisbon restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra terrace

Restaurant O Panteao de Santa Clara’ near the legendary flea market

Former palace & conspiracy

The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.

Lisbon Restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food for a good price

If you are not too hungry ask for “meia dose” (half serving). Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food. Price: less than 15 €. From the restaurant you can see the dome of  The Pantheon.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon January ’17

Ths place is one of my favorites. Our lunch (almoço):

Gambas com alho (prawns with garlic) € 9.50, copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1.00. Caril de frango (chicken curry) € 6.90. Agua (small bottle of water) € 1.10, espresso/cafe € 0.80

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon June 2018

It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the fleamarket, or a quick nap 😉

Lisbon Feira da Ladra man asleep near restaurant O Panteao

Near the restaurant: legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that ‘fell of a lorry’, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first

Lisbon Feira da Ladra owners restaurant O Panteao

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Restaurant owners Armando Pereira Antunes, his wife Maria Guilherina and the very friendly waiter Celso. Campo Santa Clara 146-A, Lisbon , easy to reach with the legendary tram 28, a ´must do´ Lisbon attraction

The former palace near the fleamarket in Lisbon

Kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ Lisbon: Tagus river view garden & children playground

The ‘Clara Clara’ Cafe in Alfama Lisbon is a kiosk in the garden-terrace of  (Santa Clara), overlooking the Tagus (Tejo) River and the National Pantheon (Church of Santa Engracia).

‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

Lovely & quiet garden

Summer, 2015. This small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon or after visiting the nearby National Pantheon , in which important Portuguese personalities are buried.

April 29, 2021: cafe ‘Clara Clara’ terrace Lisbon

This lovely small garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids . A little further down, there is a playground.

Playground for children – kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ Lisbon

The cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Cafe Clara Clara & a part of the garden overlooking the river Tagus

An inviting terrace in summertime: the kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in summertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) . The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market every Tuesday and Saturday

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn),

Cafe ‘Clara Clara’

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Lovely Portuguese ceramics shop at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’

April 5, 2021: after the COVID 19  lockdown Portugual is slowly beginning to open up again! 🙂

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owners makes me feel like buying a lot..  !

April 10 2021 : Portuguese ceramic shop: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, at the fleamarket in Lisbon

Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, November 2019

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon, November 2019

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Lisbon

June 8, 2019. Picture: Christel Leenen

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  😉  many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Portuguese traditional ceramics Lisbon: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

Portuguese traditional ceramics Lisbon: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ & designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro

There’s a very long history with Portugal & codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. More…….

Portuguese ceramics Lisbon: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, November 2019

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112

Open from 11:00 – 19:00 (also on Sunday). Closed: Monday & Wednesday
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Designer Alberto Gourgel Lisbon: unique pieces, atelier & vintage store

Close to tourist attraction fleamarket Feira da Ladra in Lisbon there’s the studio of designer Alberto Gourgel. Where? Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

March 2021: designer Alberto Gourgel’s atelier & lovely cat Gordon in Lisbon

Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975. ” I studied in a boarding school in Angola, but due to economical problems my brother and I moved to Lisbon in 1983. Being a kid, I already had a lot of creative ideas”.

Feira da Ladra Flea Market Lisbon Alberto Gourgel designer

2008: Market A Feira da Ladra‘  (Lisbon’s famous flea market)

Original Portuguese magazines

Alberto Gourgel & vintage suitcases decorated with original vintage Portuguese magazines.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

You can find Alberto and his beautiful creations in his atelier/shop quite near the market:

Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

Feira da Ladra Alberto Gourgel old fashioned suitcases

Legendary market in Lisbon: Feira da Ladra

Alberto ( in 2008): ”The last years, I’m in to ‘vintage’, and I’m fascinated with the beautiful 20th Century Portuguese ‘vogue’ magazines. It’s not easy finding them, sometimes I’m lucky in a small museum or in very old bookshops”.

Feira da Ladra Lisbon Alberto Gourgel6

Alberto Gourgel

Alberto: “The vernis is made by hand, an ancient procedure. It takes a lot of time because it’s very important to keep the original colors”. Besides Alberto decorates posters, walls, doors and room separators.

Visit Alberto’s weblog

Feira da Ladra Alberto Gourgel3

Alberto Gourgel

Tourists from all over the world

Flea market “Feira da Ladra”  (Campo de Santa Clara) is visited by lots of tourists from all over the world. The market in Alfama dates back around 800 years, though it may have been named ‘Feira da Ladra’ as late as the 17th century.

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2009: Alberto Gourgel , Feira da Ladra Lisbon

‘Biombo’ ( a room separator) created by Alberto Gourgel.  Prices from 75- 125 euro.

 famous market Feira da Ladra

Alberto Gourgel lamp bedroom Mouraria

A creation of Alberto Gourgel in my house in Lisbon

Alberto’s work is also for sale in some antique shops in Lisbon and in loja (shop) ‘A Vida Portuguesa’. Owner is Catarina Portas. She has a passion for Portuguese identity, and everyday Catarina brings objects of the past back to life to inhabit modern-day homes.

Lisbon A Vida Portuguesa Alberto Gourgel

Shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’,

Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado Lisbon

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, January 2019

Alberto Gourgel & friend Margaretha de Vrieze

March 2021: unique lamp in my apartment

Alberto Gourgel Atelier / vintage shop
 Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon       Facebook

algourgel@gmail.com – (00351) 962480996

Tram 28 Lisbon Martim Moniz: long lines, best stops & pickpockets

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00-18:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol

Famous viewpoint & tourist attraction,  on the background Museum of Decorative Arts, really worth a visit!

Starting point tram 28, 2018

Square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Pickpockets, take care!

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care! Leave your bag in the hotel/apartment, just take some money with you in your pocket !

Open air elevator square Martim Moniz near starting point tram 28

Open air elevator connecting Martim Moniz square to the streets around St George Castle

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased since a few years, which means tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
Starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28, square Praça Martim Moniz 

All stops vintage tram 28

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Tram 28 , Lisbon

Lisbon’s legendary flea market Feira da Ladra & Ronaldo’s sexy underwear

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama at Campo de Santa Clara , is Lisbons legendary flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. More or less it means ‘market of thieves’. You should take this quite literally and keep an eye on your wallet .

Feira de Ladra 5

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that fell of a lorry, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first.

Lisbon Shopping Feira da Ladra

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price. It’s part of the game and if you don’t you’ll pay far too much. The market is held every Tuesday and Saturday, from dawn to dusk.

Lisbon Shopping Feira da Ladra woman

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

This nice Portuguese lady speaks French and English. Good stuff!

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket, January 2019

Alberto Gourgel , designer & Margarethe de Vrieze

Dogs on Feira de Ladra Lisbon flea market

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

December in Lisbon: 18 degrees and these dogs wear hand-knitted sweaters 😉 More about Dogs in Lisbon

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‘This one is Ronaldo’s’  and ‘this one is Eusebio’s’.

Cristiano Ronaldo & underwear

Maybe Portugal’s famous soccer star and sexy sportsman Cristiano Ronaldo has swapped his hotpants here for something more erotical than Armani’s underwear 😉

Feira da Ladra Lisbon Michael Jackson March10

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Michael Jackson‘s bestselling album of all time, ‘Thriller’. Price 50 euro, but you can always try to negotiate.

Feira da Ladra legendary market Lisbon Michael Jackson thriller album

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon:

Fleamarket with lots of second hand stuff: it’s always fun to stroll around 🙂

Friend and tourist guide Josephine Lucassen & children Frederico and Alicia, February 2016

For a small fee anyone who wants can offer his stuff on this market.

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon: Loek Polack & Ans de Graaf 🙂

Fleamarket easy to reach by tram 28

The best way to enter Feira de Ladra is through the arch Arco de São Vicente where tram 28 stops.

Feira de Ladra 6

Feira da Ladra and the nearby National Pantheon

Important Portugese personalities are buried in the National Pantheon , like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Cafe/terrace ‘O Panteao’ near the fleamarket June 2018

Popular restaurant with a sunny terrace near the fleamarket ‘O Panteao’ : cheap and good!

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira: Sunday morning coin & stamp collectors

On every Sunday morning from 09:00 – 13:00, the second floor of the old market Mercado da Ribeira (map)  (Market near the river since 1882), is reserved for coin and stamp collectors.

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira Coin Collectors Market1

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon – coin and stamp collectors

A good Dutch friend of mine is a coin collector, he asked me to browse the markets in Lisbon.  I’m not really interested in coins, but this is worth a visit!

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira Coin Collectors Market2

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon – coin and stamp collectors

It seems that mostly men are interested in coin collection………and they are trading furiously!

On the background you see covered market stalls: on the other days of the week market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbons biggest open food market , is selling fom fresh fish to fruit, from ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body….

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira Coin Collectors Market4

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon – coin and stamp collectors

It’s really nice to walk around here, even if you are not looking for coins or old stamps. They sell more, like calendars, very old postcards and paper money. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy cultural center, selling locally produced items such as port, honey, and handicrafts.

Coins collectors Feira da Ladra

Feira da Ladra Lisbon

Also at Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra, you can find all kind of coins….

Lisbon Flea market Praca do Comercio saturday3 coins Joao

Flea market Praça do Comércio. Lisbon

….and on every Sunday there’s a small flea market at  Praça do Comércio. This is João, don’t be afraid to negotiate the price!

Lisbon Flea market Praca do Comercio saturday3 coins Joao and Jack

Praça do Comércio. – Sunday morning & coin collectors