Unique bar ‘Pensão Amor’ (brothel) Lisbon: former red light district, sailors & pole dance

Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon, located near the river Tagus, was for decades known as a street in the city’s red light district with bars named after European capitals (like Copenhagen,  Oslo or Roterdão (Rotterdam) and Jamaica to attract the sailors who stepped off their boats here.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: wonderful drawings on the walls of the stairs

Former red light district In Lisbon

‘Pensão Amor’ is located in a typical Portuguese 18th-century building. Once a cheap pension with rooms rented by the hour to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love 😉

Along the 5 floors of the building you can admire remake copies of old posters from burlesque shows and peep shows.

Drawing artist Mario Belem

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes

Wonderful décor

The ceilings of this former ‘guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: the pole dance room

Pole dance & YouTube: Marina mey

Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon

Area Cais do Sodré  

Nowadays this area is a hip and trendy region in Lisbon. YouTube

Rua Nova do Carvalho is a street lined with hip bars and clubs that become crowded after 2AM when the bars in the legendary area Bairro Alto start to close.

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy pink street in Lisbon

More remarkable bars in this street:

bar/cafe Sol e Pesca, and Bar da Velha Senhora (Old Ladies Bar).

‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – Erika Reusens admires the bar in burlesque style

The bar has two entrances Rua do Alecrim 19  including an outside café terrace) and on Rua Nova do Carvalho.

YouTube ‘Pensão Amor’ & culture Lisbon

Bars | Cocktails  € 8.00, beer € 3. Open:  every day.  More information : Facebook

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – stairs to the bar

YouTube

More about the metamorphosis of this area: Portugaldailyview & video

Looking for a short-term apartment in Lisbon? My  100 m2 3-bedroom apartment in historic area Mouraria with 30 m lovely private patio 🙂

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon : drawing stairs to the bar

Exotic former Palace garden Lisbon ‘Tapada das Necessidades’: free access, gossip & pink birthday cake

Exotic garden Tapada das Necessidades in Lisbon is a guarded secret even the most Lisboetas don’t know about. Beautiful grounds and palace peeling pink paint, with an incredible cactus garden and a setting for a picnic you usually only see in films. Since a few years it’s open to the public/tourists and it’s free!

Tapada das Necessidades garden Lisbon: birthday picnic party June 2012

Between the famous Prazeres cemetery (also really worth a visit!) and the river Tagus (Tejo) you can find this large (about 10 ha) exotical park, including a wonderful picnic area, a network of walkways, historical buildings, a garden and lakes. The grounds of the palace contain a remarkable collection of exotic plants known as “Tapada das Necessidades”.

Tapada das Necessidades Lisbon: Lilja & the candy-pink birthday cake, June 2012

Surprise birthday picnic & special birthday cake

Our lovely friend Lilja (70) from England, born in Iceland, was invited for a surprise birthday picnic. This beautiful lady likes shopping, like handbags, hats and shoes, and she loves to try on every pair of shoes before deciding whether to buy anything at all 😉  . That’s why this special birthday cake: a pink ‘hat’ decorated with elegant ladies shoes and a small handbag on top.

Exotic garden ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ Lisbon: prime location for a picnic or a lazy afternoon

The Palace (Palácio) das Necessidades was built in the 18th century in gratitude for prayers answered by Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Our Lady of the Needs, a title dedicated to the Virgin Mary), whose first devotional chapel stood on this site.

Nowadays this palace is a Portuguese National Monument

Garden ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ Lisbon: walk through the immense, amazing garden

The ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ has been the stage for some important events in Portuguese history, as exemplified in the famous case of the box that king Dom Pedro V installed at the door, in wich everyone could leave their messages and complaints to the sovereign.

From 1910, the palace remained unoccupied for almost 40 years. In around 1950 it became the headquarters of the Portuguese Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Garden Tapada das Necessidades Lisbon: Rob and Felipe, June 2012

Sanitairy facilities & trees

It is really wonderful to walk in this garden, you have the feeling that it’s all yours, because there are almost no other people around… In the park are no sanitairy facilities, the guardians at the entrance cried: ” enough trees here”!…. 😉  😉

There are three lakes surrounded by exotic vegetation, sculptures, a waterfall, a fountain and a pool. Really beautiful but faded elegance….

“Hello? Thank you! I’m currently in Lisbon.. Yes! Celebrating my 70th birthday”

Small pink-washed cottages & gossip

Besides: officially the few small pink-washed cottages in this park were once the little prince’s playhouses. But there are rumors that young women lived in those little pink houses, being the mistresses of the king …  😉

One of the little pink-painted houses in the garden: playhouse for the little prince?

The abandoned buildings create a mysterious atmosphere…..and inside there’ s a lot of trash…….   More pictures of this park, the historical buildings and the exotic plants and flowers: Beautiful garden pictures getportugal.com

Tapada das Necessidades garden Lisbon: entrance/exit near the Palace

How to get there? Take the 28 tram to Prazeres. The main entrance of the park Tapada das Necessidades is through the Largo das Necessidades. This park is open to the public every day of the week – including Saturdays and Sundays, the entrance is guarded but entry is free.

The Palace (Palácio) das Necessidades, June 2012

Open: wintertime 8h – 18h (from Monday u/i Friday), from 10h – 18h (Saturday and Sunday). Summertine 8h – 19h (from Monday u/i Friday), from 10h – 19h (Saturday/Sunday)

Top tourist attraction Lisbon: bronze sculpture Portuguese poet Pessoa, a poem & history

The bronze sculpture in Lisbon of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) is extremely popular.

Lisbon cafe A Brasileira tourist attraction statue Fernando Pessoa

Sculpture of famous poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl, almost 80 years after his death!   🙁

Top tourist attraction

Famous cafe ‘A Brasileira’  ‘s terrace in Lisbon (Rua Garrett 120) is a real tourist attraction. Poet Fernando Pessoa once was a regular customer. His table in bronze was created by Lagoa Henriques.

Pessoa statue Rua Garett A Brasileira9

Famous old cafe ‘A Brasileira’  (‘The Brazilian’, opened in 1905) Lisbon, Rua Garrett

Who was poet and writer Fernando Pessoa?

Pessoa was largely unknown in Portugal until after his death in 1935. The man has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists nowadays, all day long!

Lisbon Pessoa statue Rua Garrett & friend Hans

Sculpture poet Fernando Pessoa Lisbon & Dutch admirer Hans

‘The best way to travel is to feel’ Pessoa wrote, ‘so feel everything in every possible way.’ Pessoa was born in Lisbon in 1888.

Apart from his high school years which he spent with his mother and half brothers in South Africa, he lived in Lisbon without a break, without taking public holidays, without traveling abroad. He did so with the help of heteronyms, inventing many lives (and cities) out of his own, spent between the Chiado area, where he lived.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcada table Pessoa famous Portuguese writer

Quality Restaurant Martinho da Arcade, Lisbon.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcade Lisbon & Pessoa’s table

Portugal’s famous poet and writer Pessoa spent a lot of his time in cafes (like Cafe Martinho da Arcada, where he wrote and drank a lot . He died in 1935, aged 47.

Pessoa’s table is still there…

Fernando Pessoa

Fernando Pessoa

Casa (house) Fernando Pessoa, Rua Coelho da Rocha, 16, Campo de Ourique.

Open from Monday – Saturday 10:00-18:00.

Pessoa drawing Travessa do Sequeiro

Drawing Fernando Pessoa, Travessa do Sequiero Lisbon

“Acordar”, poem by Álvaro de Campos, one of Fernando Pessoa’s various ‘heteronyms’ (imaginary characters).

“Acordar da cidade de Lisboa mais tarde do que as outras
Acordar da Rua do Ouro
Acordar do Rossio, as portas dos cafés
Acordar…..
E no meio de tudo a gare, que nunca dorme
Como um coração que tem que pulsar através de vigilia e do sono”

“The waking up of Lisbon, later than other cities
The waking up of Rua do Ouro
The waking up of Rossio Square, at the doors of its cafes
Waking up…..
And in the middle of it all the train station, which never rests
Like a heart that has to beat in both waking and sleeping hours”

Pessoa drawing Rua 1 Dezembro Lisbon

Rua Primeiro de Dezembro, April 2009

Looking for a vacation apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals).

Kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ garden Lisbon, fleamarket Feira da Ladra & children playground

The ‘Clara Clara’ Cafe in Alfama Lisbon is a kiosk in the garden-terrace of  (Santa Clara), overlooking the Tagus (Tejo) River and the National Pantheon (Church of Santa Engracia) at Lisbon’s legendary flea market, Feira da Ladra.

‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

This small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon or after visiting the nearby National Pantheon , in which important Portuguese personalities are buried.

Clara Clara terrace & view on the Tagus river, Lisbon

This garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids . A little further down, there is a playground.

Playground and game tables for children – kiosk cafe Clara Clara Lisbon

As for the menu, the cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Clara Clara terrace in summertime

An inviting terrace in summertime: you can cool off under the trees of the garden. The kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in sumertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Nothing better than a tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) on a cold afternoon. The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn)

Bizarre bar Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: 1900s style curiosities, kitch & one of a kind!

A ‘must-see’ when you visit Lisbon! Once an old grocery store, this 1900s style bar, 10 minutes walk from  Bairro Alto ‘s nightlife is really unique!

Lisbon Paviljao Chines7 bar retaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: one of the most interesting and unusual decorated bars I’ve ever seen!

A good start to Lisbon’s nightlife. You have to ring the doorbell, like in many other Portuguese places. The reason for the closed doors is that the owners want to welcome you personally.

Lisbon Pavilhao Chines naked woman menu book

Erotic art: menu book bar Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

If you wish, you can buy a fine menu book with a lot of beautiful pictures and stories (20 euro) as a reminder of your visit.

Lisbon Paviljao Chines8 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines bar Lisbon

Fascinating collection of all sort of things, like lead soldiers, contemporary engravings, humorous ceramics and models of war planes.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines3

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: miniscule toy soldiers are perfectly aligned.

Walking from room to room is like going through a museum with curiosities and kitch from all over the world. It is said that only one man collected all this stuff….almost unbelievable!

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines4 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: nothing is for sale

Once sitting down at one of the beautiful tables, the choice of drinks (nothing is for sale, except the drinks and it’s a bit expensive..) is quite large: from tea, wine, cocktails to champagne.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines9 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

You can have a drink while listening to the jukebox playing classic rock songs from the 60’s and 70’s or play snooker, and then walk down to the  Bairro Alto and enjoy the night..

Top 10 bars with live music in  this area, Bairro Alto

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines 10 unique bar and restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon, open from 18:00 – 02:00, smoking allowed

Address: Rua Dom Pedro V 89-91, Bairro Alto. Tel: (00351)213 424 72.

Lisbon Pavilhao Chines Bar

FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/pavilhaochineslisboa

TagusCruises Lisbon 2 hours Sunset Sailing Tour: great experience & romantic super full moon

Portugal has the most gorgeous sunsets I have ever seen! When you visit Lisbon it is a great idea to enjoy a sailing tour and to discover the city seen from the river Tagus.

Tagus Cruises sunset sailing

TagusCruises Lisbon: sunset sailing on the river Tagus, a great experience!

This 2 hours sunset sailing trip departs daily from Doca do Bom Sucesso, close to the Belém tower, Lisbon, at 19:30.

How to get there: tram 15 from either Praça da Figueira or Praça do Comércio Lisbon

Doca do Bom Sucesso Lisbon: office Taguscruises & boat ‘Whatever’

If you wish you can go to the office (also situated at Doca do Bom Sucesso), buy a ticket and board immediately, but you can also book in advance via the website of Taguscruises.com .

Sunset sailing Tagus river Lisbon: beautiful views of the old city of Lisbon

Tagus Cruises can also organise birthday parties, marriage proposals, champaign parties, and live music on board. You can bring your own food and drinks or you can buy all you need in a shop near the office. Or maybe you prefer a private yacht and sail between Lisbon and Cascais?

Tagus river sailing & Lisbon’s most famous square: Praça do Comércio

Praça do Comerçio is one of the most majestic squares of Lisbon and absolutely worth a visit. Terraces and restaurants are facing the Tagus river, surrounded by the most stunning architecture.

Sunset sailing trip Lisbon & friendly Taguscruises staff: João Silveira Ramos

On the background the wonderful 25 of April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril), connecting the city of Lisbon to the municipality of Almada on the left (south) bank of the Tagus river, and the Cristo Rei monument. How to get there?

Sunset sailing trip Lisbon: amazing 25 April Bridge & drawings of dolphins

Dolphins return to Tagus estuary. Their presence is believed to be the result of a significant reduction in the River Tagus pollution from the city, and the improved quality of the river water is providing them with healthy fishing grounds.

Sunset sailing tour Lisbon: view on historical part of Lisbon Alfama and the Pantheon (Panteão Nacional)

You will pass Lisbon’s beautiful monuments and attractions, such as the Monument of the Discoveries, the beautiful St George Castle (Castelo de São Jorge), and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Jerónimos Monastery.

Sunset sailing tour Lisbon, June 22nd & Jorge Nuno, Taguscruises

Jorge Nuno: “In december 2012 we started with Taguscruises in Lisbon. The main idea is to give the people a ‘new door’ to the Tagus river. The boats are docked in front of the office; groups can buy a ticket here and then navigate. Of course you can book via our website, but personal contact is important for us”.

Monument of  the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) Lisbon as seen from the Tagus River

Jorge Nuno: “Sailing is my passion and also my profession, because I used to work as a deck officer on a container boat”. ” We also can arrange events for companies: we have organized a Regatta with 16 boats for 160 people”.

Sunset sailing trip river Tagus Lisbon June 22nd & romance

Super full moon

I enjoyed this sailing trip on the evening of June 22nd, one day before ‘super full moon’ in Lisbon. The atmosphere on board was quite romantic…  A lot of people believe that when the moon is full, people tend to allow their emotions to rise to the surface 😉

Sunset sailing trip Lisbon: Torre de Belém (Belém tower) & romance

TAGUS CRUISES LISBON      YouTube Video boat ‘Whatever’

Daily departures from 10:00 – 19:30, Doca do Bom Sucesso Lisbon.

Sunset sailing tour. 45 €/pax. Duration: 2h. Dep: 19.30h. Min. 2 pax – Máx. 11

Reservations: info@taguscruises.com(00351) 925 610 034

Sunset sailing tour Taguscruises Lisbon

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon: surprising menu, integrated museum & ‘LSD’ cocktail

Restaurant Pharmacia in Lisbon is integrated into the Pharmacy Museum just near Tagus river viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Catarina or Adamastor. The remarkable décor is inspired by pharmacies of the past, the menu is a surprise!

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon – the garden in summertime on a Sunday afternoon

Restaurant Pharmacia is integrated into the Museum of Pharmacy (Museu da Farmácia). In Portuguese farmácia literally means “Drug Store” and it truly holds onto its name, since it is located at the building of the Portuguese National Drug Store Association. The remarkable interior is inspired by classic old pharmacies.

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon – very nice waiters dressed in white lab coats

When you enter the restaurant, you are shown to your table by somebody wearing a white lab coat. The menu is mainly focused on Portuguese cuisine, and “petiscos”  (small dishes), but the restaurant also has a bar, serving all kinds of drinks and light snacks. One of its fine features is the outside terrace. The restaurant does not close after lunch and ‘a la carte’ service throughout the day is available.

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon: long lunch with good friend Erika Reusens

We enjoyed a delicious lunch, coffee and wine included € 45,70 . For dinner you also have the choice of a special menu of several dishes (€ 28, without drinks).

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon, integrated into the Museum of Pharmacy

Inaugurated in June 1996, the Pharmacy Museum is the only museum of Universal History in Portugal and one of the most complete in the world. The collection is based on pieces that represent 5000 years of history of health in civilizations as diverse as Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Rome, Greece, Islam, South America, China, Tibet, Japan, Africa, and modern Europe. YouTube movie Pharmacy Museum of Lisbon

Museum open from Monday– Friday: 10am – 6pm. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays.

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon

Inside the building you will find the wall of old medicine cabinets full of glass drug containers, medicine vials, and bottles of all kinds. Also the wallpaper is a tribute to the pharmacy. Your plain water will be served in an old ether bottle, the bottle holder is wearing a red cross logo…

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon: restaurant inside & vintage items

The remarkable interior uses almost exclusively vintage and antique items and some pieces that are on loan from the museum. The menu card is a pharmacy notebook and even your soup will be served in a small vial.

But the comparison with a pharmacy stops here: the food in a hospital is totally different.... 😉 😉

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon – bottle of wine served in a measuring cup

Even the bottle of wine is served in a plastic measuring cup…. And the cocktails here all have ‘drug’ names, like ‘LSD’ cocktail (whisky and ginjinha). How about a cocktailibuprofen’ ? (Cachaça licor and lemon juice), or try a paracetamol cocktail (honey, melon and ginger beer)  😉

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon, Rua Marechal Saldanha 1, Lisbon. Facebook. Open from Tuesday – Sunday from 13:00 – 01:00

Restaurant Pharmacia is overlooking the Tagus river

Looking for a nice holiday apartment in Lisbon? My apartement has 3 bedrooms, a sunny and private patio in the historical part of Lisbon, Mouraria,

Nearby: Miradouro (viewpoint) Adamastor. More……..

……your coffee…….

BTW: famous artist Damien Hirst tried his hand at the restaurant business in 1998 when he opened the art-filled Pharmacy Restaurant + Bar in London. Filled with pseudo-scientific pharmacy-themed items, Hirst curated every design element from metallic pill-printed wallpaper and pill-shaped ashtrays.

Fado, knives & blood & artist Carlos Fernandez Mouraria Lisbon

Artist Carlos Fernandez was born and raised in Mouraria, a historic (old Moorish) down town area in Lisbon. Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 1

Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez

Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.

fado-maria-severa-cafe Mouraria painting

Legendary Fado singer Maria Severa

Maria Severa, the first Fadista , who died at age 26 in1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis, was born in this area. A very sad story! Famous performer of Fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ , was born near Mouraria , Rua Martim Faz. No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 2

Carlos Fernandez

Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.

Mouraria in June Santo Antonio guirlandes

Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts (castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra (litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 3 tram 28 electrico

‘Old tram 28’ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez

The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 4

Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition Santo Antonio recycled plastic

Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material

The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!

Mouraria Lisbon old yellow tram santo antonio sardines

Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines.

Looking for a short time rental apartment in Lisbon? Please check the calendar of my Authentic apartment for rent in this 900 years old area of Lisbon

Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition viewpoint Santa Luzia

Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building

An exposition was held in this beautiful small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).

If you are interested to see more of Carlos’ work (and prices), you can send him an email: fadonavalhasesangue@gmail.com

Carlos Fernandez artist exposition Santa Luzia Lisbon

Tourists are interested to see the exposition, Santa Luzia

Besides: Santa Luzia is a very popular and historical viewpoint (miradouro) in Lisbon, next to viewpoint Portas do Sol. Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus!

Restaurant São Cristóvão Lisbon: cheap Cape Verdean African dishes & owner Maria Levy

Restaurant São Cristóvão  is a tiny place in Lisbon’s historical city center Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon .

Tiny Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon Owner Maria Levy

Owner Maria Levy in her restaurant São CristóvãoMouraria Lisbon

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio, 10 minutes walk from this place

This small family-run restaurant is famous for its Cape Verdean- and other African dishes. The menu also includes typical Portuguese cuisine such as codfish (bacalhau) and sardines (sardinhas)

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon2

Moamba de Galinha (Angolan chicken stew), a very popular dish: € 6

Restaurant São Cristóvão is a favorite place among locals, with great food. You never pay more than € 7 for a dish. Mufete, a typical dish from Angola with fried fish, sweet potatoes, beans, peppers and cassava: € 6. Drinks: Super bock beer € 1.  Ginja , liqueur made by infusing ginja berries, a  favourite liqueur of many Portuguese: € 1,50.

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon3 owner Maria Levy

Restaurant São Cristóvão in Lisbon owner Maria do Livramento Levy

Maria Levy: ” I was born in Cape Verde , Santiago,  the largest, greenest, most African island of Cabo Verde, one of Portugal’s former African colonies. 43 years ago I moved to Portugal and around 30 years ago I opened this restaurant in Alfama”. “We can provide seating space for up to 32 people”. And, after dinner: “You must try a ponche (punch) de Cabo Verde” (€ 2).

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon pastel starter

Pastel de Milho (corn), starter 1.80 euro, originally from Cape Verde

History: the Cape Verde archipelago was uninhabited when the Portuguese discovered it in 1456. African slaves were brought to the Cape Verdian islands to work on Portuguese plantations. As a result, Cape Verdeans are mulattos (mestiços in Portuguese), who have mixed African and European origins.

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon Maria Levy grandchildren

Maria Levy and her grandchildren. The walls in the restaurant are covered with paraphernalia from the Cape Verdian Islands and pictures.

Cape Verde split away from Portugal in 1975, nowadays Lisbon is home to most of the Cape Verdean diaspora, although large communities are also to be found in Senegal, the north-east United States, Holland, France and Italy.

Restaurant Sao Cristovao Lisbon Febr 2013 dancing

Restaurant São Cristóvão: Ans de Graaf, a friend and owner Maria Levy

Maria loves the Afro-Portuguese music that fills her eatery and she invites people to dance after their dinner.

Popular singer Cesária Évora, “the Barefoot Diva’, has made Cape Verde famous all over the world. She generally performed in bare feet, as a sign of solidarity for the large number of women and children back home in the Cape Verdean Islands who cannot afford shoes. Cesária Évora: ‘Saudade’  (youtube).  More (wikipedia)

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon street

Restaurant São CristóvãoRua de São Cristovão 28-30,  Mouraria Lisbon. Phone (00351) 914752102. Open from 12:00 to 24:00, also on Sunday.

In case you visit Lisbon for the first time: this restaurant is not easy to find. From the city center walk to Rua da Madalena and climb the stairs from Escadinhas de São Cristóvão

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon how toreach

Stairs to restaurant São Cristóvão from Rua da Madalena, Mouraria Lisbon

District Mouraria ( ‘where the Moors live’) is one of the oldest areas in Lisbon. Nowadays the Moorish influence is still present, like the tiny streets and stairs. You feel like walking in a kasbah in the Middle Ages!

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon street 10

Rua de São Cristovão  Lisbon, wall picture of Joaquim, a man who lived in this street. Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in this area for 6 years.

Former Palace Santa Catarina Lisbon: ‘Pop Up’ festival 2010, Tiago Chagas & kissing nuns &

UPDATE 2017: this former palace is now a hotel

Right next to one of the most popular viewpoints (miradouros) ovoer the river Tagus (Tejo) in Lisbon Adamastor,  you’ll find Palácio Verride, a former 18th- century Palace, better known as Palácio de Santa Catarina.

Viewpoint Adamastor Lisbon Tagus River Santa Catarina Palace POP UP kissing nuns

‘Pop Up’ 2010 Art Gallery Santa Catarina Palace: Artwork Tiago Chagas

The municipality of Lisbon is the owner of the former Palace, and excellent art exhibitions are regularly held here, like in December 2010: ‘Pop Up’ Art Gallery, a urban culture international festival that challenges creators of multiple areas of artistic expression to intervene in vacant or abandoned urban spaces, giving them new life through art.

Cultural agenda Lisbon

Viewpoint Adamastor Lisbon Tagus River Santa Catarina Palace POP UP art entrance

‘Pop Up’ art 2010: the former Palace’s stairs in the hall

Youtube video ‘Pop Up 

‘Pop Up’ started in 2009 in Lisbon city, but intends to become an international platform of urban culture exchange, bringing together artists and talents from different cities around the world, aiming to promote Lisbon cultural identity in and out of doors.

Viewpoint Adamastor Lisbon Tagus River Santa Catarina Palace1 POP UP

Palace Verride (known as Santa Catarina) Palace Lisbon. This year, ‘Pop Up’ had “Urban Nomads” for a theme and pigeons as their icon.

The 18th- century Santa Catarina Palace’s history dates back to the first half of the 18th century. The Palace has seen various uses, a number of different owners and successive work campaigns. The Baron and Viscount of Moledos, Francisco de Paula Silva Tovar, deputy to the constitutional courts, resided there in the 1820s.

Recently the MUDE museum (art, design & fashion) housed here, nowadays located in Baixa area, really worth a visit!

Viewpoint Adamastor Lisbon Tagus River beautiful Santa Catarina Palace POP UP

Beautiful ornamented ceilings and azulejos (Portuguese tiles)

Happily many of the original rooms of the old Palace are still preserved, such as ornaments in the ceilings and beautiful tiles. In the 1980s, the well-known architect and painter João de Almeida, made several changes.  The Lisbon City Council purchased the palace in 2003.

Viewpoint Adamastor Lisbon Tagus River Santa Catarina Palace POP UP1

Popular river Tagus viewpoint right next to the Santa Catarina Palace:  Adamastor viewpoint and Moorish kiosk (quiosque) cafe.

‘Adamastor’  is a popular viewpoint (miradouro) and gathering place in Lisbon ovelooking the river Tagus, which is officially called the Miradouro de Santa Catarina.

Viewpoint Adamastor Lisbon Tagus River Santa Catarina Palace POP UP Don't Panic Lisboa

‘Pop Up’ 2010 Palace Santa Catarina: artwork Tiago Chagas,  ‘Don’t Panic’ Lisbon

‘Don’t Panic’ is a unique free publication directed towards young people and emerging artists in areas like music, design, fine arts, cinema, theater, literature, graffiti, dance, fashon, clubbing and many others

YouTube video ‘Don’t panic’ Lisbon

Viewpoint Adamastor Lisbon Tagus River Santa Catarina Palace POP UP nuns 2

‘Pop Up’  2010: Santa Catarina Palace Lisbon: artwork Tiago Chagas