Lisbon at Christmas time, students, beggers, traditions & Xmas lingerie

Already in October Lisbon is busy decorating the streets and trees. Thousands of colourful Christmas lights decorate the city.  Christmas light restrictions across Portugal

November 2022: Praça Luis de Camões

Nowadays conventional lights were replaced by LED bulbs to reduce energy consumption.

Christmas lights in Lisbon in December

Planning to see Christmas lights in Lisbon?

Christmas lights in Lisbon will be switched on November 30th and will remain on until January 6 with a reduction in the daily operating hours.

More info: The Portugal News

Lisbon Chirstmas lights church in Mouraria near Praca Martim Moniz

Lisbon, historical area Mouraria, in December

Church near Praça Martim Moniz

A Lisbon shop in December & Xmas lingerie

Children’s choirs sing Christmas carols (Janeiras) in the streets of Lisbon.

The Janeiras are a great tradition.

Lisbon November 23rd children choir Christmas Carols Rossio

Rossio Square, Lisbon in November, children’s choir

Groups, mostly young people, walk through the streets from house to house. With their songs, they wish all residents a good and healthy New Year.

Lisbon, Christmas tree 2017

At the night of December 31, thousands of people gather near the waterfront of the Tagus River at Praça do Comércio, to welcome the new year.

More: Time Out

Christmas time in Lisbon students try to sing and ask or money

Tradition:

students (try to 😉   ) sing a Christmas Carol in the streets and ask for money..

Lisbon Christmas 2008 begging people

A woman, also dressed in black, is asking for money too…..

…..and there’s a lot of poor people begging on the streets of Lisbon, not only at Christmas time….

Lisbon Christmas lights Praca dom Pedro IV Rossio

Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio), Christmas decoration and beautiful ‘wave’ pavement

On Christmas Eve , December 24, mosts restaurants are closed from lunchtime.

Families gather around the Christmas tree. Many attend the Midnight Mass (Missa do Galo). After mass they gather around the table and have supper.

Firework Lisbon

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon December 31, 2017

December 31, in the best of Portuguese traditions, a shower of light and colour will flood Lisbon’s most famous square, Praça do Comércio, with a fireworks display to the sound of the twelve gongs.

Fireworks YouTube 2018

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon. December 2019.

Picture: Josephine Lucassen, professional tourist guide 

New Years Eve: From 22:00 there’s a big stage  at this square,there’re live concerts with famous Portuguese names and plenty of entertainment. According to the Portuguese tradition, twelve wishes are made to the sound of the twelve bell tolls, toasting with champaign to the new year.

Also in Parque das Nações there is a fireworks show near the river.

Traditional Portuguese New Years cake ( Bolo Rei). Picture: Britta Frahm

Feliz Natal! Traditional is the Bolo Rei (Kings’ cake). This fruitcake is a typically New Years cake, but is becoming popular during Christmas Holidays. In the cake there are two surprises: one is a little present, the other one is not welcomed: a raw broad bean. Whoever gets this bean has to buy (or prepare) the Bolo Rei in the coming year.

Feliz Natal: Merry Christmas!

Portuguese ‘Farturas can be filled with flavoured jelly ( strawberry, chocolate). Very popular and delicious  🙂

Farturas (picture: Wikipedia).

HAPPY NEW YEAR! FELIZ ANO NOVO!

Recipe

Lisbon & autumn: smell of roasted chestnuts & St. Martin’s Day traditions

The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.

Lisbon city centre in autumn

Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon

St. Martin’s Day is celebrated on November 11

It’s called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer).

St. Martin’s Day dinner at home with friends, November 2018

The Portuguese celebrate St. Martin’s Day with jeropiga (a traditional delicious sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

Tram Lisbon Feliz Natal and roasted chestnuts

Rossio, Lisbon in December & Christmas trams

Traditions

On St. Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire.

How to roast chestnuts in the oven

Roasted chestnuts

Chestnuts are roasted, traditional alcoholic drinks are served, like água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent).

Chestnuts and Jeropiga

Tradition: chestnuts and jeropiga

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chiado chestnuts

Largo do Chiado, Lisbon

More….

Lovely Portuguese shop at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’. Traditional Portuguese, very warm service 🙂

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’, at fleamarket Lisbon

Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon, November 2019

People from all over the world visiting Lisbon, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’, 2019

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

 Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ & one of the 2 very friendly owners

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  😉  Many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ fleamarket Lisbon

The Portuguese adore codfish (bacalhau) and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

 ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon 2023

There’s a very long history with Portugal & codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. More…….

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon 2023

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…more: WikiPedia

Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’’ Lisbon & sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

My favorite 🙂  crockery in beautiful soft colours

Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, no. 112

Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas  Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-) 😉

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 🙁

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 .

Facebook 

YouTube:  Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares  (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria 🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau lunch (almoço) has a fixed price of 35 € per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere 🙂
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb) (!)
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (25 ).  🙂
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

Facebook

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 
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Entrance bakery Doce Mila, area Mouraria Lisbon

Great place for breakfast!

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

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Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

€ 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes € 5,50 –  € 7,50. Rice € 1.50. Bottle of water € 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony & street parties

Lisbon in June: wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets of the historical areas.

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, the ‘matchmaker ‘ (Santo António, June 13), Lisbon turns into a huge open air party!

June 12, party time! Historic area Mouraria Rua da Guia Lisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Santo António, Rua João do Outeiro.

Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint

Santo António (Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon.

Lisbon craziest night of the year in area Alfama, nearby Mouraria (YouTube)

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria in June, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.

June 12 in Lisbon: Adamastor, Santa Catarina  near the Tagus River, a popular viewpoint & gathering place.

In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.

Lisbon, June 12, Bairro Alto area

The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘

June 12, 2011. Famous Bica funicular Lisbon, a popular tourist attraction

Partying in the small streets around the famous Bica funicular, highly valued by tourists.

A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto , possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B , Lisbon

Pimba music (songs with naughty lyrics)

On June 12 the festivities in Lisbon already start around noon, and everywhere you hear music coming out of the cafes and restaurants.

YouTube “Quero Cheirar o teu bacalhau” (by Quim Barreiros): ‘I would like to smell your codfish’ 😉 😉

Even the beggar near the cafe started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Historical area Mouraria in June: Rua da Guia, Lisbon

In the month of June all the narrow streets in Lisbon’s historical areas are packed with stalls selling sangria and beer. Everywhere there’s the sizzling aroma of grilled sardines – the traditional food of the Saint Anthony celebrations are grilled sardines – but you can also go for barbecued chicken, chouriços (sausage) or pork.

June 12 Lisbon historical area : Arraial da Mouraria, dancing in the streets

There’s lots of dancing through the night. The best thing to do is just keep going and enjoy! Throughout old Lisbon there are open air parties everywhere. The party goes on until dawn 🙂

More about Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria

manjerico-santo-antonio-june-08

Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon – pots with manjerico (basil) & small love poems

Basil & love poems

During the Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession

Yearly parade

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides.

Youtube movie Saint Anthony festivities 2011

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon: excellent steak & chips à la Marilyn Monroe

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ in Lisbon pays tribute to the Portuguese steak sandwich, the prego, also a traditional snack in seafood restaurants. Recommendable!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & wonderful designed wall

Portuguese way of life & artist Gonçalo Mar

The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish

It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.

YouTube: traditional bread from the isle of Madeira , bolo do caco, very tasty!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017: Pedro & Dina

Boeuf de Wagyu (Japanese super-beef) & Marilyn Monroe potatoe chips

2 croquetes 3.80 €, 1 Rissól de Camarão (shrimp) 1.90 €, Pavé (filet) Yuppie Pão 9.50 €, Prato Pavé de boeuf de Wagyu (dish with vegetables and ‘Marilyn Monroe’ potatoe chips) 11.50 €, 2 fried sweet potatoes (batata doce) 3.00 €, 2 glasses of red wine (O Tinto d’ O Prego) 7.00 €.

Why potato chips (wavy, extremely thin and crispy , as indicated on the menu card) à la Mariliyn Monroe? I assume her famous wavy dress? and maybe Marilyn’s ‘potato sack’ dress?  😉

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??

O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego .. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉  

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Portuguese history & Casas de Pasto (pasture house) 

The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.

Old Casa de Pasto ‘pasture house’ in Portugal – around 1920 … Source: Kuentro blogspot

Lisbon people (Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.

With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.

Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356, 
facebook . Open: every day from 12:00 tot 24:00.
website   
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Saint Anthony Lisbon party time in June: parades, sardines & Fado music

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center.

Lisbon Santo Antonio June garlands Mouraria

Mouraria

The main Saints’ days are for Santo Antonio (June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Program Festas de Lisboa’ (also in English)

All the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.

Lisbon Santo Antonio 2 women Alfama

Historic Alfama, in June 2008.

Santo Antonio festivities & Portuguese flags (EFC) football

Lisbon craziest night of the year in area Alfama, nearby Mouraria (YouTube)

Lisbon Santo Antonio June restaurant A Tasquinha

Restaurant ‘A Tasquinha’,

Largo Contador Mor, Castelo area, really good sardines!

Lisbon Santo Antonio June Fado Restaurante A Tasquinha area Castelo

Eating sardines while listening to the fado singers.

Fado came long after Saint Anthony, but its major theme is nostalgia and longing-for what is lost and for what has never been gained. Anthony fits right into this scene!

Lisbn June Santo Antonio Faso Alfama

Live fado music in Alfama

The streets are filled with the delicious (strong) smell of sardines being grilled. It’s not a good time for the sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

Lison Santo Antoinio June sardines

Sardines & Saint Anthony festivities belong together

On the night of June 12 you can enjoy the famous yearly Santo Antonio costume Parade. All the clubs and associations of Lisbons’ neighbourhoods descend on Avenida da Liberdade to compete for the best parade, music, costume and choreography.

Santo Antionio costume Parade Lisbon

More…..

Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) Mouraria 2 girls

Fado, knives & blood & artist Carlos Fernandez Mouraria Lisbon

Artist Carlos Fernandez was born and raised in Mouraria, a historic (old Moorish) down town area in Lisbon. Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 1

Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez

Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.

fado-maria-severa-cafe Mouraria painting

Legendary Fado singer Maria Severa

Maria Severa, the first Fadista , who died at age 26 in1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis, was born in this area. A very sad story! Famous performer of Fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ , was born near Mouraria , Rua Martim Faz. No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 2

Carlos Fernandez

Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.

Mouraria in June Santo Antonio guirlandes

Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts (castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra (litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 3 tram 28 electrico

‘Old tram 28’ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez

The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 4

Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition Santo Antonio recycled plastic

Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material

The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!

Mouraria Lisbon old yellow tram santo antonio sardines

Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines.

Looking for a short time rental apartment in Lisbon? Please check the calendar of my Authentic apartment for rent in this 900 years old area of Lisbon

Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition viewpoint Santa Luzia

Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building

An exposition was held in this beautiful small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).

If you are interested to see more of Carlos’ work (and prices), you can send him an email: fadonavalhasesangue@gmail.com

Carlos Fernandez artist exposition Santa Luzia Lisbon

Tourists are interested to see the exposition, Santa Luzia

Besides: Santa Luzia is a very popular and historical viewpoint (miradouro) in Lisbon, next to viewpoint Portas do Sol. Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus!