On St. Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire.
Chestnuts are roasted, traditional alcoholic drinks are served, like água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent).
Chestnuts and jeropiga
Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.
Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in restaurants are mostly much higher.
Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadaysit is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently, it is gradually renovated.
Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.
Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread, Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended! Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.
Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese dishes! Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.
The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249).
It is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.”More….
Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier
Owner is Vanessa Correia, born and raised in the neighborhood. Locals like to get together to watch football, very important in Portugal! Typically Portuguese, varied grilled dishes or petiscos (portuguese tapas).
Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier
Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.
My apartment in Mouraria Lisbon (short-term rental). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier
There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazémdas Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owners makes me feel like buying a lot.. ! 🙂
Portuguese ceramics shop: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017
Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldasopened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).
Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs
I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’
Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.
The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.
Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor.. and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, is very funny…. !
Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love
In 1891 designer RafaelBordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂
Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history
The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!
There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….
Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints
Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉
Welkom! Nog beschikbaar in de kerstperiode tot 30 december, zie kalender. Prima uitgangspunt om Lissabon te ontdekken, hartje stad, tot 6 pers. Nederlandse eigenaar, verhuur sinds 2006. Rustige privé patio (30 m2). Met 2 pers. : € 60-70 p.n. , met 3/4 pers. € 80/100 p.n. Vanaf 3 nachten. Bij 6 of meer nachten 10 % korting. Prima (eco) verwarming YouTube: de buurt .
Privé patio (ommuurd en rustig), juni 2016
Patio (30 m2) met 2 BBQ’s waar gerookt kan worden.
Voor wie er van houdt tijdelijk tussen de bevolking te vertoeven in een 900 jaar oude volkswijk.
Patio (30 m2) & keuken. Juli 2018. Foto: Margaret Schöttelndreier
120 jaar oud appartement in Mouraria, historisch Lissabon, 2e etage (ca. 110 m2) met 3 slaapkamers, gratis gebruik WiFi en smart TV met o.a. Ned./Belgische zenders. Uitstekende stoelen en bedden. Mobiele airco.
Geen nachtelijk café-lawaai, wel komt er bij vlagen verkeer door de nauwe straatjes .
Taxi & metro
Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km. (per taxi € 10-12 incl. bagage). Het appartement is erg makkelijk per metro te bereiken (metro, halte plein Martim Moniz).
BBQ met vrienden Erik Herter en Liesbeth Niebling: dourada 🙂
Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een oude multiculturele (volks)wijk en toch typisch Portugees, met fado restaurantjes.
Appartement in oude Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: april 2018
Nieuwe sofa 🙂
In de buurt: bakkers met heerlijke verschillende soorten verse broodjes) en onweerstaanbaar lekkere Portugese gebakjes, zoals bijvoorbeeld het beroemde roomtaartje Pastel de Nata: een caloriebom !
Kamer appartement Mouraria, Lissabon: lunch met Liesbeth Niebling & Erik Herter, maart 2018 : erwtensoep 🙂
Restaurantjes in de buurt
De supermarkt is 10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement, er zijn veel kleine winkeltjes in de buurt en typisch Portugese restaurantjes (ca. 10-12 euro p.p.). Het is veelal goedkoper om uit eten te gaan dan om zelf te koken.
Het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ‘s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer. .
Mouraria appartement Lissabon: Paula Ferreira verzorgt de (uitstekende) schoonmaak
woonkamer met 2-zits comfortabele bank en grote antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel met 4 stoelen (Linum, ook geschikt voor terras) en een gemakkelijke extra stoel (Linum). Originele balkenvloer in alle kamers. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidisolerend dubbel glas aan de straatkant. Smart/Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 123 cm, radio, CD-speler, WiFi-aansluiting;
3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat):
slaapkamer met 2 een persoons (boxspring, 90×200) bedden, aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast en een gemakkelijke stoel. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidisolerend dubbel glas;
tweede rustig gelegen slaapkamer (met raam, uitzicht op de tuin van de buren) en een 2-persoons bed (210×180), antieke linnenkast;
derde rustige slaapkamer (met raam naar de patio) en comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200);
Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr. en babybadje;
badkamer met douche, ligbad, bidet en toilet. Gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid handdoeken van goede kwaliteit (geen strandlakens). Haardroger;
zonnige (van half maart tot eind september) en rustige prive patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 2 comfortabele stoelen, 2 bamboe stoeltjes en een zonne/slaap stoel. Comfortabele Linux stoelen uit kamer en slaapkamer kunnen ook buiten gebruikt worden. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2 BBQs en 2 muurparasols;
de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Mobiel airco apparaat. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden via Heatwafer ecopanelen in iedere kamer.
Juni 2018: BBQ met Rob, Felipe, Joanna, Fernando en zoon Aleksander (3)
Mei t/m augustus, feestdagen en vakantieperiodes (10 % korting bij een boeking van 6 nachten of meer). Informeer naar aanbiedingen.
70 € per nacht met 2 personen, €90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen €100, 5/6 pers. €110 . (Vanaf 2 personen te huur).
September t/m april (m.u.v. feestdagen en vakantieperiodes):
€ 60-70 euro per nacht met 2 personen, €90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen €80/100, 5/6 personen €110.
10 % korting bij een boeking van 6 nachten of meer.
Informeer naar aanbiedingen of verhuur voor langere periodes. Kinderkorting in overleg. Kinderen 0-4 jaar gratis. Chicco reis babybed en badje is gratis beschikbaar.
Alles inbegrepen, excl. schoonmaak 40 euro. De bedden zijn opgemaakt bij aankomst. Mooi bedlinnen (Essenza), ruime voorraad handdoeken (geen grote strandlakens). Prima verwarming in de wintermaanden via Heatwafer panelen in alle 6 kamers € 25 per boeking.
Historische buurt Mouraria in Lissabon
de buurvrouwen (as vizinhas).
Appartement in Mouraria Lissabon: badkamer met wasmachine en droger
WiFi internet (wel eigen laptop(s) meenemen) en satelliet TV met vele kanalen, o.a. Nederlandse en Belgische zenders.
Startpunt legendarische gele tram 28: 5 minuten lopen vanaf het appartement
Een ‘must do’ Lissabon attractie: het legendarische trammetje 28, startpunt is vlakbij het appartement. Een ideale- en goedkope manier om de historische wijken van Lissabon te zien en de ‘miradouros’ (mooie uitkijkpunten) over de rivier De Taag.
Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 2e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar de tuin van de buren
Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 3e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar het terras. Comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200)
A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music. Good fado has its home in historical areasAlfamaor Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria‘, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista: ‘Maria da Severa’ .
Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.
Usually the fado singing starts from 10pm.
Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon
The Portuguese blues
No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.
It is said that Maria da Severawas born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter. After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.
People who like to gather here are musicians, actors, journalists and residents of surrounding neighborhoods. Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.
You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks. We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm). If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.
Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres
Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person
Our dinner: Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver) € 13,90, bacalhau (cod fish) € 16,90, bife € 15,90, and 2 bottles of red wine € 21,80.
Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016: 90 euro
Retratos do Fado – Um tributo à Mouraria. (Portraits of Fado – A tribute to Mouraria). This is a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas with a strong connection to the neighbourhood. A great idea! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson, who has been living in the area for 6 years.
Every year mid-June, the time-honoured Santo António celebrations take over the streets of Lisbon, filling them with grilled-sardine and sangria-selling stalls, cheery bunting, and happy people. More..
At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm, June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes.
The narrow streets in area Bairro Alto(at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.
All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.
Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems
As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.
During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts
Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂
“não digas que não amas – “do not say you don’t love me pois tens a voz a tremer – because your voice is trembling quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim um sim pretender dizer” – it is “yes” you mean to say….
‘Fábrica Lisboa’ has its own production, which means that croissants, bread, pies or cakes are constantly coming out of the oven in front of the customers. Traditional portuguese soups, sandwiches made with rustic bread, pies and fresh salads are also served.
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon
Funny Portuguese vintage decoration
When you pass through Rua da Madalena and you hear a bell it’s fresh bread/croissant time!
But this space really deserves a longer visit to appreciate the vintage decoration with delightful and funny details, like old scales, bottles, bread boxes, old phones or pornographic cassettes. Even the coffee machine is vintage…… !
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & my favorite croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa)
Among the things of the past, take your time to enjoy a ‘late breakfast’ or a snack with salad or scrambled eggs with ham, accompanied by rustic bread.
Croissants ‘old nunnery style’
There«s more than 10 different croissants, from simple (plain, € 1.20), old nunnery style (with sweet-soft egg cream, € 1.20, created by nuns who lived in monasteries with a lot of chickens in the garden… 🙂 to extra large: 2 fried eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, salad and chips ( € 7.00).
My favorite: a sweet croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa) € 2,20.
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : friend Margriet de Vrieze loves this place. Tea (chá) € 1.75
Cartoon character Zé Povinho – symbol of the Portuguese working-class
The cartoon character Zé Povinhowas created by satirist and designer Bordalo Pinheiro in 1875, a symbol of the Portuguese working-class people, as a caricature for the protest against the politics and the high taxes for the simple population. Still nowadays every child in Portugal knows Zé Povinho. ‘Zé’ (José or Joseph in English), ‘Povinho’ is a diminutive for ‘Povo’, which means ‘people’.
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & Zé Povinho, symbol of the Portuguese working-class people
Ceramics from Caldas da Rainha
Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon, is well known for its wonderful ceramic pottery with a long tradition. The output includes large decorative pieces, crockery, tableware and decorative objects, famous all over the world for its unique (and sometimes funny) designs. Where to find in Lisbon: More…
Why is there a ceramic penis between the vintage decoration? Some centers of ceramic production in Caldas da Rainha has a tradition of phalluses and amusing phallic symbols. The tradition is said to have started in Caldas when King Dom Luis, who ruled from 1861 to 1889, suggested that local potters create something more interesting 😉 Penis-shaped ceramics
The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish
It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017
Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??
O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego.. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017
Portuguese history &Casas de Pasto (pasture house)
The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.
Lisbon people(Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.
With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.
Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356,
On Christmas Eve , December 24, mosts restaurants are closed from lunchtime. Families gather around the Christmas tree. Many attend the Midnight Mass (Missa do Galo). After mass they gather around the table and have supper.
In the best of Portuguese traditions, a shower of light and colour will flood Lisbon’s most famous square, with a fireworks display to the sound of the twelve gongs. From 22:00 there’s a stage with live concerts with famous Portuguese names and plenty of entertainment. Also in Parque das Nações there is a fireworks show near the river.
Traditional Portuguese New Years cake
Feliz Natal! (Happy New Year!). Traditional is Bolo Rei (Kings’ cake). This fruitcake is a typically New Years cake, but is becoming popular during Christmas Holidays. In the cake there are two surprises: one is a little present, the other one is not welcomed: a raw broad bean. Whoever gets this bean has to buy the Bolo Rei in the coming year.
Looking for an apartment at Christmas time in the historical center of Lisbon?You’re welcome!
Lisbon in June: wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado,pimbamusic and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets of the historical areas.
On the eve of Saint Anthony day, the ‘matchmaker ‘ (Santo António, June 13), Lisbon turns into a huge open air party!
June 12, party time! Historic area Mouraria Rua da GuiaLisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)
In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!
Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint
Santo António(Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon.
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.
In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.
The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘
A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto, possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.
Even the beggar near the cafe started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.
Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon – pots with manjerico (basil) & small love poems
Basil & love poems
During the Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.
Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession
At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides.