Lisbon: how to recognize cheap good Portuguese restaurants, sardines & José & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron.

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58 Lisbon & owner José Maria

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese food 🙂 Historical area in Mouraria, Lisbon. 

Owner José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice 7.50 euro (fried cod): delicious!

The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

dutch ladies 4 feb Jose Marie lunch

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

More cheap restaurants and useful information about area Mouraria

mouraria-jose-marie-erna-deegens-september-2016

September 2016: Erna and Tonny Deegens & friends Marijn and Anneke

Good quality & local prices

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda delicious bitoque

Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon 🙂  🙂

If you prefer meat, and don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca. 7 euro).

Typical Portugues & very popular: grilled sardines

Bill for 3 persons: around 30 euro

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Restaurant owner Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

My apartment in the same street in area Mouraria (100 m2), 3 bedrooms & lovely patio (30 m2). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier.

Short time rental: my 3 bedroom holiday apartment with lovely patio

January 2016: Erika, Loek, Luc & Ans

Football

In Portugal there’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda November 2018

Unrequested starter dishes

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!).  NOT in this place 🙂

Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Restaurant Carmar Lisbon Espetada near Martim Moniz

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Roasted apple (sobremesa: dessert)

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00. Dinner from 19:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto 

Nun’s bellies & bacon from heaven  😉

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela in the north.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay in cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 20 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria Lisbon Street tiny restaurant Jose Marie & Laurinda nov 14

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point starting point legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha‘ 

Rua do Terreirinho 58, Mouraria Lisbon. Not open on Sunday

Discover trendy historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Lisbon: discover area Mouraria, cheap restaurants, shops, bars, art, sexy & fado

Mouraria is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Cafe/restaurant Minutos Gulosos‘ (‘greedy moments’), Largo das Olarias no. 1 : great for breakfast ! Cafe € 0.55, fresh juice € 2.20, sandwich € 1.40

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.  Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 . Facebook 

YouTube: a walk through Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Area Mouraria in the month of June:  Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints, Lisbon’s craziest night).

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon. Still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas.

 

Very popular Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahler (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahler

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar Flamingo reopened in May 2018.   

Facebook

Open air bar TOPO

Spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ bar ‘TOPO’ (Top) overlooking popular square Martim Moniz.

Rooftop restaurant/ open air bar ‘TOPO’

Closed: Monday. Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music).

MORE information….

Where: Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Restaurant owner José Maria

Restaurant ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58, Lisbon

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese dishes! 
Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

MORE about this small cafe/restaurant….

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda area Mouraria Lisbon

Bill for 3 persons around 30 euro. Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Tiny restaurant, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros: 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno

Cozy terrace in a courtyard 🙂 . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).  Very friendly owners​.

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Our bill for 3 persons 27 euro: grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno & bakery Doce Mila area Mouraria Lisbon

Fado Vadio (amateur fado singers)

On all Saturdays there’s Fado Vadio in restaurant Beco do Forno: from 13:00 – 18:00. Lunch menu (3 courses,  15.50 €).      Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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It is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza ,  started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times. Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , where great names of fado music were born, like femme fatale Maria da Severa (nearby a fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Football

Owner is Vanessa Correia, born and raised in the neighborhood. Locals like to get together to watch football, very important in Portugal! Typically Portuguese, varied grilled dishes or petiscos (portuguese tapas).

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 
Rua da Guia, 4A/BMouraria, Lisbon. € 20 for 2 persons. 
Cafe € 0.60, beer € 1.00. WiFi. Cash only.
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The Food Temple: Vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seating on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

My apartment in Mouraria Lisbon (short-term rental). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Looking for a great place to stay in historic area Mouraria? Check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio  🙂

Area Mouraria is easy to reach: close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

YouTube: area Mouraria Lisbon

Lovely traditional Portuguese ceramics shop at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owners makes me feel like buying a lot..  !  🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon ceramic shop Jan. 2017 & Loes Broere

Portuguese ceramics shop: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017

Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramic Bordalo Pinheiro black cat

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramic 3

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, is very funny…. !

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramics swallow

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramics hanging codfish

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics galinha

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Short term rentals in Lisbon

Of course there’s a ‘good luck’ rooster in my 3-bedroom apartment with lovely sunny patio in Lisbon  😉

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics sardines

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube (in historical area Alfama)

Lisbon Feira da Ladra shop Armazem Caldas tableware1

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112

Open from 11:00 – 19:00 (also on Sunday). Closed: Monday & Wednesday
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon Armazem das Caldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Authentiek 3 slpk. appartement (100 m2) hartje Lissabon: heerlijke patio, tot 6 pers. Smart TV & BBQ

Welkom! Nog beschikbaar in de kerstperiode tot 30 december, zie kalender. Prima uitgangspunt om Lissabon te ontdekken, hartje stad, tot 6 pers. Nederlandse eigenaar, verhuur sinds 2006.  Rustige privé patio (30 m2). Met 2 pers. : € 60-70 p.n. , met 3/4 pers. € 80/100 p.n. Vanaf 3 nachten. Bij 6 of meer nachten 10 % korting. Prima (eco) verwarming YouTube: de buurt  .

Privé patio (ommuurd en rustig),  juni 2016

Patio (30 m2) met 2 BBQ’s waar gerookt kan worden.

Hartje historisch Lissabon, maar net buiten de toeristische drukte. Meer over restaurants, bars en winkels in de buurt. Nabij metro plein Martim Moniz vanaf het vliegveld, en startpunt tram 28.

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BESCHIKBAARHEIDS kalender

Mouraria appartement Lissabon, patio augusts 2014: vrienden Rob en Felipe

StraatMouraria, Rua do Terreirinho Lissabon .

Zon op de rustige, privé patio (30 m2) van begin maart tot eind september. Marmeren aanrecht en 2 BBQ’s.

Mei 2018, Songfestival Lissabon: Marijke, Anita, Carla & Sylvia: familie Lollig 😉

Reserveren of meer info (vanaf 3 nachten, vanaf 2 personen. Geen aparte kamers te huur).

Mail naar Julie Kruijs thelisbonconnection@gmail.com  , tel. 0653941845 (ook WhatsApp).

Mouraria appartement Lissabon, patio oktober 2018.

Foto: Mieke Brosky

Het appartement ligt op de 2e etage.

Rustige terrassen vlakbij het appartement: Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lissabon

Foto:  Henk van de Weerd

10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement: het prachtige historische plein Intendente , met terrassen en eetgelegenheden .

Lucky TV: Willy & Max in Lissabon

Kamer Mouraria appartement Lissabon oktober 2017

Aankomsttijd: 15:00, vertrektijd 11:00. 

In gezamenlijk overleg is flexibiliteit mogelijk. Na 22:30 uur inchecken: 15 euro, te betalen bij aankomst.

Januari 2018: nieuwe Smart TV

Fado zangeres Mariza

Zangeres Mariza groeide op in deze wijk YouTube

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon kamer en suite aan de straatkant

Thelisbonconnection:

mijn blog over Lissabon (nuttige- maar ook heel veel aangename info over de stad en omgeving).

Gastvrij Portugal : unieke vakantiehuizen met veelal Nederlandse eigenaren.

  Casa rosa Mouraira Nov 15 2

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho Lissabon .

Voor wie er van houdt tijdelijk tussen de bevolking te vertoeven in een 900 jaar oude volkswijk.

Patio (30 m2) & keuken. Juli 2018. Foto: Margaret Schöttelndreier

120 jaar oud appartement in Mouraria, historisch Lissabon, 2e etage (ca. 110 m2) met 3 slaapkamers, gratis gebruik WiFi en smart TV met o.a. Ned./Belgische zenders. Uitstekende stoelen en bedden. Mobiele airco.

 

Geen nachtelijk café-lawaai, wel komt er bij vlagen verkeer door de nauwe straatjes .

Taxi & metro

Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km. (per taxi € 10-12 incl. bagage). Het appartement is erg makkelijk per metro te bereiken (metro, halte plein Martim Moniz).

BBQ met vrienden Erik Herter en Liesbeth Niebling: dourada 🙂

Startpunt legendarisch trammetje 28,  taxistandplaats en bussen bij plein Martim Moniz is 3 min. lopen.

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon: rustige privé patio (30 m2) met BBQ gedeelte, juni 2017

Castelo de São Jorge ligt op loop afstand.

Appartement Mouraria in historische wijk in Lissabon & keuken, januari 2017

Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica zijn makkelijk bereikbaar.

De legendarische 16e-eeuwse uitgaanswijk Bairro Alto is ca. 15 min. lopen.

Lisbon Mouraria area seen from Costa do Castelo

Mouraria, historische wijk in Lissabon

De wijk Mouraria,  dankt haar naam aan vroegere bezetters, de dominantie van de Moren (Os Mouros).

Het straatje ligt dichtbij twee centrale- en monumentale pleinen Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio in de volksmond) , Praca da Figueira en plein Martim Moniz

Plein Martim Moniz YouTube, lekker eten, live muziek en meer!

Patio (30 m2) , mei 2018. Foto: Rufus Ketting

Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de  ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een oude multiculturele (volks)wijk en toch typisch Portugees, met fado restaurantjes.

Appartement in oude Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: april 2018

Nieuwe sofa 🙂

In de buurt: bakkers met heerlijke verschillende soorten verse broodjes) en onweerstaanbaar lekkere Portugese gebakjes, zoals bijvoorbeeld het beroemde roomtaartje Pastel de Nata: een caloriebom  !

Kamer appartement  Mouraria, Lissabon: lunch met Liesbeth  Niebling & Erik Herter, maart 2018 : erwtensoep 🙂

Restaurantjes in de buurt

De supermarkt is 10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement, er zijn veel kleine winkeltjes in de buurt en typisch Portugese restaurantjes (ca. 10-12 euro p.p.). Het is veelal goedkoper om uit eten te gaan dan om zelf te koken.

Restaurant Rua do Terreirinho 58 José Maria and Laurinda

In het straatje: Restaurantje Jose-Marie en zijn vrouw Laurinda Mouraria

Klimaat & kleding

Het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ‘s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer. .

Mouraria apartment Paula cleaning garden

Mouraria appartement Lissabon: Paula Ferreira verzorgt de (uitstekende) schoonmaak

Tickets: : Ryan Air (vanaf Eindhoven)TAP (Portugese luchtvaart maatschappij),  Transavia.nl,   Easyjet Lissabon,  KLM, Vueling (tip). Route sneltrein door Portugal: Alfa Pendular (online ticket reserveren  vanaf 30 dagen vooraf is mogelijk).

appartementLissabon Foto Emil Roes

Slaapkamer 1 appartement Mouraria Lissabon. Foto: Emil Roes
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Indeling appartement : (woonkamer, 3 slaapkamers met ramen, badkamer, keuken & patio, 30 m2)

  • woonkamer met  2-zits comfortabele bank en grote antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel met 4  stoelen (Linum, ook geschikt voor terras)  en een gemakkelijke extra stoel (Linum). Originele balkenvloer in alle kamers. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidisolerend dubbel glas aan de straatkant. Smart/Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 123 cm, radio, CD-speler, WiFi-aansluiting;
  • 3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat):
  • slaapkamer met 2 een persoons (boxspring, 90×200) bedden, aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast en een gemakkelijke stoel. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidisolerend dubbel glas;
  • tweede rustig gelegen slaapkamer (met raam, uitzicht op de tuin van de buren) en een 2-persoons bed (210×180), antieke linnenkast;
  • derde rustige slaapkamer (met raam naar de patio) en comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200);
  • Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr. en babybadje;
  • badkamer met douche, ligbad, bidet en toilet. Gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid handdoeken van goede kwaliteit (geen strandlakens). Haardroger;
  • donsdekbedden en luxueus bedlinnen (Essenza);
  • keuken met tafel en 2 stoelen, 2 koelkasten, magnetron, 4-pits electrische kookplaat, oven, goede pannen, waterkoker, koffie/Nespresso apparaat, citruspers, (wijn)glazen, borden, bestek, keukenlinnen etc.;
  • zonnige (van half maart tot eind september) en rustige prive patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 2 comfortabele stoelen, 2 bamboe stoeltjes en een zonne/slaap stoel. Comfortabele Linux stoelen uit kamer en slaapkamer kunnen ook buiten gebruikt worden. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2 BBQs  en 2 muurparasols;
  • de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Mobiel airco apparaat. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden via Heatwafer ecopanelen in iedere kamer.

Juni 2018: BBQ met Rob, Felipe, Joanna, Fernando en zoon Aleksander (3)

Tarieven 2018/2019
Mei t/m augustus, feestdagen en vakantieperiodes (10 % korting bij een boeking van 6 nachten of meer). Informeer naar aanbiedingen.
70 € per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen 100, 5/6 pers. €110 . (Vanaf 2 personen te huur).
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September t/m april (m.u.v. feestdagen en vakantieperiodes):
 60-70 euro per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen €80/100, 5/6 personen 110.
10 % korting bij een boeking van 6 nachten of meer.
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Informeer naar aanbiedingen of verhuur voor langere periodes. Kinderkorting in overleg. Kinderen 0-4 jaar gratis. Chicco reis babybed en badje is gratis beschikbaar.
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Alles inbegrepen, excl. schoonmaak 40 euro. De bedden zijn opgemaakt bij aankomst. Mooi bedlinnen (Essenza), ruime voorraad handdoeken (geen grote strandlakens). Prima verwarming in de wintermaanden via Heatwafer panelen in alle 6 kamers € 25 per boeking.
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 Historische buurt Mouraria in Lissabon
de buurvrouwen (as vizinhas). 
Apartment Mouraria Lisbon bathroom 1
Appartement in Mouraria Lissabon: badkamer met wasmachine en droger
WiFi internet (wel eigen laptop(s) meenemen) en satelliet TV met vele kanalen, o.a. Nederlandse en Belgische zenders.
Reservering (20 % aanbetaling) d.m.v. huurcontract incl. coulante annuleringsvoorwaarden:
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November, december (m.u.v. de Kerstperiode ),  januari en februari: prijs op aanvraag (soms ook langere periodes mogelijk). 
Prima verwarming via Heatwafer panelen in alle 6 kamers € 25 per boeking.
Tram 28 Square Martim Moniz Mouraria Lisbon 2
5 min. lopen vanaf het appartement: startpunt trammetje 28 0p plein Martim Moniz
Startpunt legendarische gele tram 28: 5 minuten lopen vanaf het appartement
Een ‘must do’ Lissabon attractie: het legendarische trammetje 28, startpunt is vlakbij het appartement. Een ideale- en goedkope manier om de historische wijken van Lissabon te zien en de ‘miradouros’ (mooie uitkijkpunten) over de rivier De Taag.
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Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 2e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar de tuin van de buren
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Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 3e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar het terras. Comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200)
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Bij aankomst in het appartement staat een lekkere fles Portugese wijn in de ijskast. Zeer goed verzorgde schoonmaak, opgemaakte bedden bij aankomst.
Mouraria 3 bedroom apartment Lisbon patio March 2016
3- slaapkamer appartement Mouraria Lisbon: geurende jasmijn op de pátio (30 m2) maart 2016
De zwaluw (gekregen van Sander en Marcel 🙂 ) is een Portugees symbool dat staat voor liefde en geluk: gitzwarte zwaluwen (andorinhas) sieren menig Portugees huis   meer

Restaurant cafe Bruta Flor Lisbon: creative food, warm staff, live music & lovely place

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place! Cafe/restaurant Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) is located in Mouraria, a bit tucked away in the heart of the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant Bruta Flor, historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Saturday night February 2017

Nowadays Largo da Severa in historic area Mouraria is a beautiful little square, named after Maria Severa, considered to be the first fado singer in Portugal.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor  Mouraria Lisbon June 2017

This restaurant was once a typography workplace, now it’s been transformed into a lovely decorated dining space.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) area Mouraria Lisbon February 2017

Historical area Mouraria & 900 years of history

Historical area Mouraria exists more than 900 years, together with Alfama it is Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & healthy creative dishes

Great selection of vegetarian dishes

We ordered a vegetarian meal: tomato couscous (yummy! € 8,50) and Thai chicken (€ 8,75), a bottle of fantastic biological wine Fossil (€ 13,00), small bottle of water (€ 1,30), olives (€ 1,00), and chocolate cake ice cream (€ 3,50).

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & friend Rob Plews, February 2017

There’s a variety of (bio) Portuguese wines available, my favorite: Fossil 🙂 bottle € 13.

There are also nights of live music: this night we really enjoyed Vitória.

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & Vitória  (YouTube)

Owners restaurant Bruta Flor Paula, Ruth & Ugo: world citizens

Owner Paula Froes: ‘We are a family of three, who decided to step up and do something for ourselves. All of us have their own professions but I am the only one who works on at least one of mine. None of us was born in Portugal. I come from Mozambique, Ugo and Ruth from England. We have also lived in Brazil. We are somehow a trio of world citizens’.

Restaurant Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon February 2017: owners Paula, Ruth & Ugo

Restaurant Bruta Flor, Mouraria : March 18 & NV Lissabon members

Music, Art & people 

Owner Paula: “As you come into our place you will probably feel the influences of our travels, both in the decoration, the food, the exhibitions, workshops and live music. The world is made of different people and that makes it exciting. There are many pleasures in life, amongst them eating, drinking, enjoying music, art and people”.

On the wall, a portrait of a French painter Séraphine Louis

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon February 2017 & owner Ugo

Home made cakes

Bruta Flor is divided into 2 spaces: there’s a small and cozy cafe right next to the restaurant. From morning to evening there’s coffee and delicious cake (slice € 2.50, home made of course!), and for breakfast and for lunch a variety of healthy ideas to choose from (€ 3.50 – € 7.00).

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon, dinner March 2017

Tábua de Enchidos (Meat Board) € 11.50, Tábua Vega with guacamole , black beans, humus, raw vegetables, chips, wrap and toast € 9.00, queijo € 5,50 (1/2 board of cheese variety), glass of red wine € 2.80, coffee € 0.80.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon & dinner with friends Loek Polack and Ans de Graaf

Bruta Flor: a mix of good food, comfort & adventure

Owner Paula: “Providing opportunities for people to meet one another, share their visions, arts, over a delicious meal. Life is not only about gathering, sometimes we just want to be by ourselves and have a good reading in a quiet environment. We would like to think this is also possible at our café. Comfort and adventure. Can we mix them? We believe we can. A flavour, a sound, a colour … there are many ways of tasting life”.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon, wall drawing: beautiful man & wild flowers 🙂

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor   Music: Caetano Veloso – O Quereres – Bruta Flor
Closed Monday/Tuesday) . Phone: (00351) 915498119. More info:  Facebook
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Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & view Largo da Severa Lisbon

Short-term rental in this area: my apartment (100 m2, 3 bedrooms), lovely private & quiet patio

Looking for an authentic apartment in this area? More info about my apartment in Mouraria & availability calendar

Lisbon LX FACTORY: Sunday 2nd hand hippie chic market, Arts center & restaurants

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon: restaurants in summertime & Sunday 2nd hand market

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history. YouTube      More information

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly open air market

Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Every Sunday an open air market is held, selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube Sunday LX market

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon: several great restaurants & affordable prices

Lively and exciting cultural area full of art studios, bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open.

A cool hangout zone!

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. read  slowly, website with a virtual tour) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon: Maria Severa, first fadista & femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music. Good fado has its home in historical areas Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria‘, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista: ‘Maria da Severa’ .

Mourara Lisbon in June Rua do Capelao Portuguese fado guitar

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities): Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 10pm.

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria 'Casa da Maria da Severa' november 2013

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter. After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

People who like to gather here are musicians, actors, journalists and residents of surrounding neighborhoods. Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria dinner feb 14 3 Josephine e Jorge

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver) € 13,90, bacalhau (cod fish) € 16,90, bife € 15,90, and 2 bottles of red wine € 21,80.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016: 90 euro

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-)

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon: famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

Retratos do Fado – Um tributo à Mouraria. (Portraits of Fado – A tribute to Mouraria). This is a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas with a strong connection to the neighbourhood. A great idea! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in the area for 6 years.

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho (Portuguese fado singer & songwriter) & Maria da Mouraria

In summertime you can enjoy well-known fado performers in front of ‘Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, (YouTube). Film screenings, book readings and performers are the responsibility of Helder Moutinho.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

In summertime the terrace is open for drinks and petiscos (‘tapas’).

Dining from 20:00 – 02:00. Open from Tuesdays to Sundays (incl. Fado). No creditcards.  Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz.

Reservations: (00351) 96 476 60 56. Facebook    Website

10 minutes walk from this square: my 3 bedroom apartment & lovely patio (30 m2)

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

Tiny Ginja bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon: popular berry liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Ginja liqueur April15 2

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street tourists

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

My 100 m2 apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovley patio is 5 minutes walk from here (short term rentals)

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Felipe

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Lisbon cafe Amigos da Severa Mouraria Luc e Erika fado

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa people street live fado
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and first fado singer of Lisbon
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa owner sr. Antonio Pais May15
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
Lisbon bar ANOS 60 Festas populares Santo Antonio night June 12 15
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Mouraria Lisbon in June & June 12,

Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) Lisbon: fantastic food & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

10 minutes walk from this little square: my authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio in Mouraria (short term rentals).

2016: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) & beautiful little fountain

Knitted graffiti

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia among others, and homemade cakes.

August 2018: Dorade (larded with peppers)  € 12, 50. Delicious!

Entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; um copo de vinho tinto/vinho branco (a glass of red or white wine) € 2,60;  small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

Home made chocolate cake  € 3:60

When entering restaurant O Corvo it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another, greater room. The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2018:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ Lisbon & Margriet de Vrieze

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Largo dos Trigueiros 15A-15B Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: from fresh fish to funeral flowers & 750 seats foodhall

Near the Cais do Sodre train station, on the other side of the road, you will see the beautiful building of the Mercado da Ribeira (market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome. Worth a visit!

Mercado da Ribeira

Market Mercado da Ribeira, near the river Tejo, Lisbon

Market: open daily 05:00 – 14:00. Closed on Sundays. Address: Avenida 24 de Julho Lisbon.

Mercado Da Ribeira overview market

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon open food market

The cities biggest open food market is selling everything: from inky octopus and fresh seafood to fabulous fruit, from real Portugese products like ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body…..   :-(

Mercado da Ribeiro Lisbon funeral flowers

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: funeral flowers

This is Lisbon’s cheapest market. The seafood forms a large part of the Portuguese cuisine with 1001 ways to cook it. Bacalhau is the Portuguese name for cod, a very popular fish, so much that they have a different bacalhau recipe for each day of the year!

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon: every day fresh fish

There really is something to find for everyone  :-(

Looking for an authentic apartment in the historical center of Lisbon (short term rentals)? My 3 bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely private patio (30 m2)

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon June 2014 Pig

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon

In 2007 the market celebrated a 125 year of existence: beautiful pictures are on the walls from fish sellers (varinas) of the Ribeira Market from a hundred years ago, when the fishermen moored their ship here to sell the fresh fish.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Varinas

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish seller (varina, year: 1900)

On Sunday mornings there is a Collectors fair from 09:00-14:00, like coins and stamps. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy ‘cultural’ centre. It sells locally produced items such as port and honey, and handicrafts.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out gastronomical area Gal

Next to the food market: TIME OUT foodhall & gastronomical area representing the best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon

The area gathers about 30 spaces, providing around 750 seats. The best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon are represented.
TIME OUT foodhall & gastronomical area September 2018
The idea is simple: you grab the food and drinks from one or several restaurants of your choice (not necessarily the same as your family and friends), and go sit in the food court where you’ll be able to interact with everyone there.
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Mercado da Ribeira (River Market) Lisbon: Time Out magazine food pavilion

Traditional Portuguese sandwiches & nails

Did you ever try a traditional Portuguese sandwich like the Prego? or a Bifana (pork)?  a Prego is the most popular and incredible garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)   with mustard or piri-piri)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Food Hall: Portuguese petiscos (tapas)

Petiscos (Portuguese tapas)

Small plate dishes are called petiscos in Portugal, so basically the same as Spanish tapas. (More….  ). Don’t say this to the Portuguese, the Spanish invasion (1762) is still fresh in their memory…. ;-)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015 atum

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon & petiscos (tapas)

Cozinha da Felicidade (petiscos a portuguesa):

Atum com batata doce (tuna and sweet potatoes) 9.50 euro, agua sem gas (water) 1.50 euro

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out restaurant terrace

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon restaurant: fresh seafood

Restaurants and terraces outside the market

Also new are the restaurants outside the old market: we enjoyed fresh Atlantic seafood and a delicious Portuguese wine.

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon new 2014 restaurants terrace

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: restaurants with terraces

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with wonderful patio

‘Time Out’ Food Hall: Gastronomical area near the market hall
Opened May 18 2014.
Opening hours: Sunday to Wednesday 10am to midnight; Thursday to Saturday 10am to 2pm

Thanks to  Thijs Verhoeven