Category: Lisbon people

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Lisbon at Christmas time, students, beggers, traditions & Xmas lingerie

Happy New Year!

Already in October Lisbon is busy decorating the streets and trees. Thousands of colourful Christmas lights decorate the city.  Christmas light restrictions across Portugal 2022

November 2022: Praça Luis de Camões

This year conventional lights were replaced by LED bulbs to reduce energy consumption.

Christmas lights will be on between December 6th 2022 and January 6th 2023, with a reduction in the daily operating hours. More info: The Portugal News

Lisbon Chirstmas lights church in Mouraria near Praca Martim Moniz

Lisbon, historical area Mouraria, in December

Church near Praça Martim Moniz

A Lisbon shop in December & Xmas lingerie

Children’s choirs sing Christmas carols (Janeiras) in the streets of Lisbon.

The Janeiras are a great tradition.

Lisbon November 23rd children choir Christmas Carols Rossio

Rossio Square, Lisbon in November, children’s choir

Groups, mostly young people, walk through the streets from house to house. With their songs, they wish all residents a good and healthy New Year.

Lisbon, Christmas tree 2017

At the night of December 31, thousands of people gather near the waterfront of the Tagus River at Praça do Comércio, to welcome the new year.

More: Time Out

Christmas time in Lisbon students try to sing and ask or money

Tradition:

students (try to 😉   ) sing a Christmas Carol in the streets and ask for money..

Lisbon Christmas 2008 begging people

A woman, also dressed in black, is asking for money too…..

…..and there’s a lot of poor people begging on the streets of Lisbon, not only at Christmas time….

Lisbon Christmas lights Praca dom Pedro IV Rossio

Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio), Christmas decoration and beautiful ‘wave’ pavement

On Christmas Eve , December 24, mosts restaurants are closed from lunchtime.

Families gather around the Christmas tree. Many attend the Midnight Mass (Missa do Galo). After mass they gather around the table and have supper.

Firework Lisbon

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon December 31, 2017

December 31, in the best of Portuguese traditions, a shower of light and colour will flood Lisbon’s most famous square, Praça do Comércio, with a fireworks display to the sound of the twelve gongs.

Fireworks YouTube 2018

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon. December 2019.

Picture: Josephine Lucassen, professional tourist guide 

New Years Eve: From 22:00 there’s a big stage  at this square,there’re live concerts with famous Portuguese names and plenty of entertainment. According to the Portuguese tradition, twelve wishes are made to the sound of the twelve bell tolls, toasting with champaign to the new year.

Also in Parque das Nações there is a fireworks show near the river.

Traditional Portuguese New Years cake ( Bolo Rei). Picture: Britta Frahm

Feliz Natal! Traditional is the Bolo Rei (Kings’ cake). This fruitcake is a typically New Years cake, but is becoming popular during Christmas Holidays. In the cake there are two surprises: one is a little present, the other one is not welcomed: a raw broad bean. Whoever gets this bean has to buy (or prepare) the Bolo Rei in the coming year.

Feliz Natal: Merry Christmas!

Portuguese ‘Farturas‘ can be filled with flavoured jelly ( strawberry, chocolate). Very popular and delicious  🙂

Farturas (picture: Wikipedia).

HAPPY NEW YEAR! FELIZ ANO NOVO!

Recipe

Lisbon at Christmas time, 2009

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Famous Lisbon fish cannery store ‘Conserveira de Lisboa’ & nostalgic power

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store) has been covered in many newspapers, tv-programs and on the internet, never paid for any promotion but is listed by many touristic guides.

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store) March 2021

In this little shop hundreds of colorful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish are stored. It’s been open for 80 years.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria de Jesus Silva

Maria de Jesus Silva, Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

History

The shop opened in 1930 under the name ‘Mercearia do Minho’ and changed it’s name to Conserveira de Lisboa in 1942. In the beginning days the company sold all kinds of alimentation, concentrating on canned foods.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiroa Conserveira de Lisboa canned fish shop Luís Vieira

Luís Vieira,Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In 1942 the company applied for the registration of the first two brands of conserves: TRICANA and PRATA DO MAR.

Tricana was registered in 1948 and Prata do Mar in 1956.

 

Macquerel (filetes de cavala), tummy (atum), squid (polvo) and cod (bacalhau).

During the second world war the industry of conserved fish products developed rapidly and it helped the company to evolve quickly, reaching it’s peak with the colonial war in ’74. After this period, the conserves market shrinked steadily, frozen food became a more common way of conservation.

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Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Confronted with this perspective of a further declining market, the Conserveira chose to remain operating on this niche market and offer only quality products. This way the shop also survived the aggressive low prices by the supermarkets.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Manuela Preira

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Two nice ladies in the shop are wrapping the various preserves: Manuela Pereira….

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria Manuela Neves

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

…..and Maria Manuela Henriques Nunes

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa no plastic bags

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

I bought 4 cans: 2 fillets macquerel (€ 4,54) and 2 tuna fillets (€ 3,63). Happily no plastic bags! If you like you can write a nice note in the guest book.

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa guestbook

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In June 2004 Armando Jose Cabral Ferreira and Regina Maria da Silva Monteiro Baptista Cabral Ferreira became the owners of the shop.

Famous cannery shop Conserveira de Lisboa street

Conserveira de Lisboa, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34 (website).

E-mail address: info@conserveiradelisboa.pt

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros means ‘street of the cod fish sellers’……). More.about this street..

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Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

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Designer Alberto Gourgel Lisbon: unique pieces, atelier & vintage store

Close to tourist attraction fleamarket Feira da Ladra in Lisbon there’s the studio of designer Alberto Gourgel. Where? Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

March 2021: designer Alberto Gourgel’s atelier & lovely cat Gordon in Lisbon

Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975. ” I studied in a boarding school in Angola, but due to economical problems my brother and I moved to Lisbon in 1983. Being a kid, I already had a lot of creative ideas”.

Feira da Ladra Flea Market Lisbon Alberto Gourgel designer

2008: Market ‘A Feira da Ladra‘  (Lisbon’s famous flea market)

Original Portuguese magazines

Alberto Gourgel & vintage suitcases decorated with original vintage Portuguese magazines.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

You can find Alberto and his beautiful creations in his atelier/shop quite near the market:

Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

Feira da Ladra Alberto Gourgel old fashioned suitcases

Legendary market in Lisbon: Feira da Ladra

Alberto ( in 2008): ”The last years, I’m in to ‘vintage’, and I’m fascinated with the beautiful 20th Century Portuguese ‘vogue’ magazines. It’s not easy finding them, sometimes I’m lucky in a small museum or in very old bookshops”.

Feira da Ladra Lisbon Alberto Gourgel6

Alberto Gourgel

Alberto: “The vernis is made by hand, an ancient procedure. It takes a lot of time because it’s very important to keep the original colors”. Besides Alberto decorates posters, walls, doors and room separators.

Visit Alberto’s weblog

Feira da Ladra Alberto Gourgel3

Alberto Gourgel

Tourists from all over the world

Flea market “Feira da Ladra”  (Campo de Santa Clara) is visited by lots of tourists from all over the world. The market in Alfama dates back around 800 years, though it may have been named ‘Feira da Ladra’ as late as the 17th century.

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2009: Alberto Gourgel , Feira da Ladra Lisbon

‘Biombo’ ( a room separator) created by Alberto Gourgel.  Prices from 75- 125 euro.

 famous market Feira da Ladra

Alberto Gourgel lamp bedroom Mouraria

A creation of Alberto Gourgel in my house in Lisbon

Alberto’s work is also for sale in some antique shops in Lisbon and in loja (shop) ‘A Vida Portuguesa’. Owner is Catarina Portas. She has a passion for Portuguese identity, and everyday Catarina brings objects of the past back to life to inhabit modern-day homes.

Lisbon A Vida Portuguesa Alberto Gourgel

Shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’,

Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado Lisbon

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, January 2019

Alberto Gourgel & friend Margaretha de Vrieze

March 2021: unique lamp in my apartment

Alberto Gourgel Atelier / vintage shop
 Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon       Facebook

algourgel@gmail.com – (00351) 962480996

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Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ Lisbon, historic square Intendente & lovely loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, August 2020. Square Largo do Intendente 59

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon 2015: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine, 2015

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria Lisbon. Metro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Square Intendente 2018

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

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Exclusive sailing cruises Lisbon: 3 mast schooner “Leão Holandês” & Dirk Gesink

January 2021: R.I.P. Dirk Gesink 😢 😢

Around 1986, the Dutchman Dirk Willem Gesink, decided to spend his honeymoon in Portugal. At that time he was a successful businessman in Holland and since his childhood a passionate sailor. He had started sailing when he was four years old at the “Loosdrechtse Plassen” in Holland.

Alcantara-boot-Dirk

Lisbon,  Doca de Alcântara

Obviously Dirk Gesink looked for a company that organized sailing trips on the river Tagus during his vacation in Portugal. He searched but didn’t find one single sailing boat dedicated to this activity. This was a determinant observation. At this moment he decided that within one year he would have his own sailing boat in Portugal dedicated to nautical tourism. And this was exactly what happened.

In 1987 he had already bought the then called “Sepha Vollaars” and was already active in the region of the Algarve. After having sold his house in Holland, the family Gesink made their home out of the centenary schooner, and accompanied the whole process. Even his two daughters were born on board.

Dirk Gesink boat

Leão Holandês

In 1991, Dirk Gesink concluded his final project of making cruises on the river Tagus. From this time on, the Leão Holandês is a reference in the Lisbon tourism branch, besides being the most ancient and experienced company dedicated to this service.

This video gives a perfect impression of a boat trip on the Leão Holandês, sailing on the river Tejo/Tagus, Lisbon

Dirk Gesink, The Dutch Lion Lisbon cruises Tagus river

Dirk Gesink

Many companies have had their names associated to the Leão Holandês. Some of these successes were the Rothmans “Tour the Country”, the sailing week with Unilever, the firework nights during Expo ´98, the publicity for Cutty Sark during the Euro 2004. And many, many others…!

 😢 😢

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Quality Restaurant Café Martinho da Arcada Lisbon & poet Pessoa’s table

Opening in 1782, Restaurant Café Martinho da Arcada, located in the corner of the Praça do Comércio 37 near the Tagus river, is one of the oldest restaurants /cafés in Lisbon.

Lisbon Restaurante da Arcada Praca do Comercio 37

The restaurant’s terrace under the beautiful arcades, Praça do Comércio

YouTube about this square Praca do Comercio. Situated downtown, this cafe was once the ideal setting for the so called ‘tertúlia’s‘ (café talks). Well known names from Portuguese life, such as Bocage, Amalia Rodrigues and Portugal’s most famous 20th C. poet Fernando Pessoa, were some of its usual customers.

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada Antonio Barbosa de Sousa

Owner of café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada’, senhor Antônio Barbosa de Sousa.

Portugal’s famous poet and writer Pessoa

Pessoa (1888-1935), worked and lived in the Baixa area in Lisbon, he wrote pieces of his work in this restaurant after closing time.

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada table Pessoa

Restaurant Martinho da Arcade Lisbon: Pessoa’s table is still there…

Fernando Pessoa’s favorite dish: juliana soup, cod and fried eggs with cheese. Until the autumn of 1989 the cafe was retained in the style in which Pessoa enjoyed it. Meeting him for coffee….

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada interior1

The inside dining room

These days mainly employees of the surrounding ministries and business people meet here for lunch. The staff is very friendly. Prices: not cheap, but the quality is excellent.

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada staff

Café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada Lisbon

Beautiful antique tiles (azulejos)

Café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada’Lisbon 2016, senhor Antônio Barbosa de Sousa & my good friend Margarethe de Vrieze

In the afternoon this wonderful traditonal Portuguese place is worth a visit for tea and applepie ( 7.50 euro).

Clam stew 17.00 euro, veal medallions 18.50 euro, small bottle of Rimor  white wine euro 9.00.

The menu lists regional Portuguese cuisine; try a amijoa cataplana (clam stew)!

More about Fernando Pessoa on this website

restaurant Martinho da Arcada friendly waiter

Café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada Lisbon & very friendly waiters 🙂

Restaurant Café Martinho da Arcada, located in the corner of the Praça do Comércio 37 near the Tagus river .     Website 

Open: Monday to Saturday 7am – 11pm (not open on Sundays)

Lisbon Praça do Comércio Feb 2011

Lisbon Praça do Comércio , February 2011

Are you a wine lover? You can taste a selection of fine Portuguese wines for free at Sala Ogival, also located at Praça do Comércio, Lisbon

 

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Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas  Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria‘.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-) 😉

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)

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Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’ Lisbon: delicious vegan plates & vibrant area

A little bit tucked away in Lisbon’s trendy Intendente area there’s   cafe/restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’, Rua dos Anjos 5 B and I love it! Not only the delicious food, but also the super friendly staff make this place really enjoyable.

Marie-Odile Coudert Antonelli & partner Gary Nairn, August 2020. Owners of nearby Bar/bistro Josephine

Cafe/Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’Lisbon & petiscos (Portuguese tapas)

Delicious petiscos ! (Portuguese tapas): peixinhos da horta (lit. little fishes from the garden)  € 4.50, sweet potato chips € 5.50.

Vibrant Lisbon area Intendente

Nowadays there’s a great atmosphere in this part of Lisbon: Intendente is a vibrant city area, with a multicultural mix of young and old, and a cool arts scene attract young people.

Restaurant/café  ‘O Gambuzino’  Lisbon Intendente area, September 2020

This restaurant serves healthy and homemade food. Everything is prepared fresh. Relaxed atmosphere with good service in an alternative spot of Lisbon.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende‘ (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’) Lisbon Intendente area

Our lunch: petiscos, salade with goat cheese, pasta bolognese.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende in 2014 (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’ ) Lisbon

Intendente area & lunch with Erika Reusens

Delicious vegan dish

The space looks fantastic with a cosy vintage decoration. Vegetables and fruits are from local producers. All snacks and dishes are homemade.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende ‘ (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’ ) & dinner with Felipe and Rob, 2015

Largo Intendente & historical area Mouraria

This restaurant is located next to the beautiful square Largo Intendente, in the historical area Mouraria. For several years a place to avoid, in recent years this area is grown into a trendy place with many new cafe’s, bars and restaurants.

Healthy & delicious!

Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’ , Rua dos Anjoa 5 B, Intendente area, Lisbon

Facebook              Metro: Intendente

Terrace Restaurant ‘Sabor K Intende’ Lisbon, 2014

Nearby square Intendente Lisbon; Joana Vasconcelos designed the small ‘park’ with ‘ love seats’

Much more about area Intendente….

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Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 🙁

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 .

Facebook 

YouTube:  Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( € 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares  (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria’ 🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau:  lunch (almoço) has a fixed price of 35 € per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere 🙂
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb) (!)
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (€ 25 ).  🙂
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

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Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: Pedro & Dina

Cozy terrace in a courtyard . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).

Very friendly owners​!  🙂

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: dish of the day (6.50 euro)

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Bill for 3 persons 27 euro

Grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno (& bakery Doce Mila) area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant Beco do Forno is open every day from 10:00 – 16:00 and from 19:00 till 21:30. Closed on Sunday

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Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
Beco dos Cavaleiros 15, Mouraria Lisbon
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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​The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.”  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

YouTube: live fado music around midnight in this small bar
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Tiny Ginja Bar ‘Amigas da Severa‘ & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

€ 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes € 5,50 –  € 7,50. Rice € 1.50. Bottle of water € 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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