Historic square ‘Largo do Carmo’ Lisbon: gothic ruins, Eurovision Song Contest 1974 & bloodless military coup

Wonderful Largo do Carmo  is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon: beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!

Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

Lisbon Largo do Carmo1

Largo do Carmo, springtime 2014

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio,

10 minutes walk from this wonderful square

Lisbon square Largo do Carmo kiosk 2

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo wikipedia jacarandas

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Largo do Carmo Military Police Station

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  theCarnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

25-abril Carnation Revolution 1974 Lisbon

Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos)

was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.

More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum 1

Largo do Carmo Lisbon
Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa2
Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755
Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno Álvares Pereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died.
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa3
 Largo do Carmo Lisbon: amazing view over Lisbon
 How to get there? How to avoid ticket queues !
The famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa video), Rua do Santa Gusta, built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high), can bring you to the Carmo Square.  
As an alternative to the elevator (and to avoid the ticket office queues  – which can be horrendous) – I prefer to walk via Rua Garrett, and turn right into Calçada do Sacramento, it’s not too steep!
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Santa Justa lift view from roof terrace warehouse Pollux
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Beautiful city view of Lisbon and Santa Justa Lift
From the roof terrace of Pollux, a huge warehouse, Rua dos Fanqueiros 276. There’s a pleasant roof terrace & bar/cafe.

Unique bar ‘Pensão Amor’ (‘Love’ Guesthouse) Lisbon: former red light district, sailors, pink street & pole dance

Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon, located behind the Time Out famous market & foodhall near the river Tagus, was for decades known as a street in the city’s red light district with bars named after European capitals (like Copenhagen,  Oslo or Roterdão (Rotterdam) and Jamaica bar to attract the sailors who stepped off their boats here.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: wonderful drawings on the walls of the stairs

Former red light district

‘Pensão Amor’ is located in a typical Portuguese 18th-century building. Once a cheap pension with rooms rented by the hour to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love 😉

Along the 5 floors of the building you can admire remake copies of old posters from burlesque shows and peep shows.

Drawing artist Mario Belem

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes

Wonderful décor

The ceilings of this former ‘guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: the pole dance room

Pole dance & YouTube: Marina mey

Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon

Area Cais do Sodré  

Nowadays this area is a hip and trendy region in Lisbon.

Rua Nova do Carvalho is a street lined with hip bars and clubs that become crowded after 2AM when the bars in the legendary area Bairro Alto start to close.

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy pink street in Lisbon

More remarkable bars in this street:

bar/cafe Sol e Pesca, and Bar da Velha Senhora (Old Ladies Bar).

‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – Erika Reusens admires the bar in burlesque style

The bar has two entrances Rua do Alecrim 19  including an outside café terrace) and on Rua Nova do Carvalho. YouTube

Pensão Amor Art & culture, Bars | Cocktails  € 8.00, beer € 3. Facebook

Mon – Wed 12:00 – 02:00, Thu – Fri 12:00 – 04:00, Sat 18:00 – 04:00

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – stairs to the bar

YouTube

More about the the metamorphosis of this area: Portugaldailyview & video

Looking for a short-term apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment in historic area Mouraria with 30 m lovely private patio 🙂

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon : drawing stairs to the bar

National palace in Queluz Lisbon: Rococo style, sexual orgies, Portuguese kings, Secret Histories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil. The information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & some tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire 

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria’s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia
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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Worth a visit!

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

 

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

Bar Flamingo area Mouraria Lisbon: surprising place for night owls & crazy psychedelic bathroom

The Flamingo Bar in Lisbon is one of the best surprises of recent times in Lisbon. A perfect place for a night out (till 03:00) with friends and good music in trendy area Mouraria !

Strike a pose!! Bar Flamingo in Lisbon, owners Jorge Gomes Moreira & Ana Batel

Vintage decor with an aristocratic twist

The space, a former lavandaria (dry cleaning shop), is cozy, quite small, but with a very original decor: vintage with an aristocratic twist.

Bar, dance- and nightclub Flamingo is situated at the same square as the famous bar Anos 60, that has recently closed its doors: Largo do Terreirinho in Lisbon.

Bar Flamingo Lisbon: June 12, Lisbon’s craziest night , friends Margriet, Rob, Lilja & bar owner Jorge

Owners Flamingo Bar: Ana BatelJorge Gomes Moreira

Owner Ana Batel: ‘Flamingo is a journey, you’ll never know what’s going to happen but you always can count with good mood: Time Out Lisbon rated our bar the bar with best good mood for square meter !! although we only have a few square meters 😉  ‘.
‘Good music, especially when me, Ana, choose the playlist, sorry Jorge… and of course there’s the craziest psycadellic bathroom in Lisbon – a bathroom that turns into a disco floor’.
Bar Flamingo, the craziest psychedelic bathroom in Lisbon & Saturday Night Fever!
Strike a pose!! We’re always vogueing!
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Owner Ana Batel: ‘Dead Combo (a Portuguese Indy Electronica band) shoot all the photos of their latest album in Flamingo, but especially from us… 😉  we’re always vogueing! Strike a pose!!’
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon: Colin Ginks & Garçon Niere
Variety of music styles & Ana’s famous cocktails
Surprising music: hip hop, rap, funk, jazz and unclassifiable.
Although this small bar opened not so long ago in Mouraria, Ana’s (gin) cocktails are already famous in Lisbon…… !
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon & cocktail Red Hot Chili Gin 🙂
Cocktails  € 4 –  € 8);  Gin € 5 – € 10
Bar Flamingo owner Ana: ” Cucumber Daiquiris, Red Hot Chilli Gins, Peach Margueritas & so on & of course infinitive madness!! – that’s why Atlas Lisboa rated us one of the best of 2016!! “
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon, owner Ana Batel & June 12, Lisbon’s craziest night
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Happy hour: always from 6 to 8 p.m
Beer Estrella Galicia (20 cl) 1€;
small sangria 1€;
cocktail of the day 4€;
Bar Flamengo in area Mouraria Lisbon & 2 very nice girls!
Cocktails from 5€ to 8€; Gin from 5€ to 10€; whisky, vodka & rum 5€;
liquors 3€ to 4€
Shots 2€
Beer from 1,5€ to 3€
Sangria from 1,5€ to 3€ (small or large glass)
Wine 2€ (glass)
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon & decor with an aristrocatic twist 🙂
June 12: Lisbon’s craziest night & Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony’s Day)
In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. On the Eve of Saint Anthony’s Day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!
 
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon & June 12 2017, Lisbon’s craziest night
Bar- dance & nightclub Flamingo – Largo do Terreirinho 16, Lisbon
Tuesday to Thursday from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m
Fridays & Saturdays from 6 p.m to 3 a.m.
Sundays from 8 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Happy hour from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m (wine 1 euro, beer 1 euro) Facebook

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Bar Flamingo in historic area Mouraria : Largo do Terreirinho 16 Lisbon
5 minutes walk from square Martim Moniz (tram 15, 28 stop & metro)

Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) area Mouraria Lisbon: great food & a sweater-wearing tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

10 minutes walk from this little square: my authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio in Mouraria (short term rentals).

2016: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree & graffiti knitting

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia (delicious!) among others, and homemade cakes.

Our lunch:  entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; um copo de vinho tinto (a glass of red wine) € 2,60; um copo de vinho branco (a glass of white wine) € 2,60, small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

When entering it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another greater room. ‘The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, Largo dos Trigueiros in Lisbon

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Largo dos Trigueiros 15A-15B Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂

Elegant tea- and lunchroom ‘Versailles’ Lisbon: outstanding old-fashioned service & funny whipped cream pastries

If you like to visit one museum during your stay in Lisbon make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria, Pâtisserie) Versailles Lisbon september 2017

Elegant tea- and lunchroom Versailles (from 1922)

After visiting the Gulbekian Museum, a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the famous Portuguese Pasteis de natas.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon & delicious funny ‘bird’ pastries 😉

Elegant setting in informal and friendly atmosphere

The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…!

Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 : NV Lissabon

History

When lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 in the year 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon.

Construction fury first halve of 20th century

The construction fury replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylish houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today’s unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, but happily PastelariaVersailles’ is still there!  🙂 🙂

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Silver-plated tea sets

The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass.

As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea sets. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon , February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ & part of national heritage

Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the ‘grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ was recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662.

Lunch, served in a back room, is of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.

Pastelaria Versailles street 2

Entrance tea- and lunchroom Versailles in Lisbon

Tea and lunchroom Versailles Lisbon
Open: daily from 7:30 till 22:00 
Metro: Saldanha.

Versailles 3 window dressing

Window dressing Pastelaria Versailles representing Portugal and former colonies

Short term rentals: my 3-bedroom apartment (105 m2) with lovely patio in historical area Mouraria
 

Park Eduard VII Lisbon, Greenhouse (Estufa Fria): exotic tropical flora, children’s park & tasty lunch Central Parque Kiosk

Park Eduard VII in Lisbon is popular: people from all over the world make amazing photos from the top of the park. It is also really worth it to visit the Greenhouse at the end of the park and the kiosk with a terrace where you can enjoy your coffee or lunch. Great place for families with children!

greenhouse-lisbon-estufa-fria-nov-2016-1

Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (litt. the Cold House), November 2016

Wonderful atmosphere

The Estufa Fria de Lisboa is an eight hectare greenhouse that was erected in 1933 by architect Raul Carapinha, located in Eduardo VII Park, one of the most important parks that exist in the city. It is one of the most visited sites, by both students and tourists. MAP
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Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (litt. the Cold House), November 2016
The Greenhouse, initially thought out as a place to simply shelter various types of plants, it has become one of the most pleasant green spaces in Lisbon, where you can spend a few enjoyable hours between lakes, waterfalls, brooks, statues and hundreds of different plant specimens from all over the world. A place that gives its visitors a sense of tranquility and well being.

greenhouse-lisbon-estufa-fria-nov-2016-2

Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria, November 2016

Lisbon Greenhouse & three different areas

This Greenhouse is managed by the Lisbon City Council and is divided into three different areas: (Estufa Fria), litt. the cold house, without heating system; Estufa Quente (the Hot House), with glass dome, and the smaller Estufa Doce, (Sweet House), where cactusses are grown.

greenhouse-lisbon-estufa-fria-nov-2016-4

Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (the Cold House), November 2016

The Greenhouse’s history

The Estufa Fria started being planted in 1910, as a part of the urban plan of the Park Eduaro VII. In 1975 the ‘Hothouse’ and the ‘Sweet House’ were open to the public. These new exhibitions had tropical and equatorial plants on permanent display.

greenhouse-lisbon-estufa-fria-nov-2016-3

Wonderful! Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (the Cold House), November 2016

Tickets

Adults: € 3,10, children and teenagers (6/18): € 2,33, students, pensioners: € 1,55. More information…. WEBSITE  Estufa Fria (source)  Facebook

Location: Estufa Fria de Lisboa, Parque Eduardo VII Lisbon

Open: in summertime from 10:00-19:00, wintertime 10:00-17:00. More….

Small lake near the Greenhouse in Park Eduard VII Lisbon & friend Margarethe de Vrieze

Lovely lake with ducks and geese 

Walking out of the Estufa Fria Greenhouse there’s a lake with ducks and geese and a kiosk with a terrace where you can enjoy your coffee or lunch. A lovely and quiet place, also for kids.

Lunch at Central Parque Quiosque, near the Greenhouse, Park Eduard VII Lisbon september 2017

Central Parque Quiosque & tasty lunch 

This is not the first time we went here for lunch, because my friends Alexandra Tops and Margarethe de Vrieze recommended this lovely place in the park where you can order good food for affordable prices.

Lunch at Central Parque Quiosque, near the Greenhouse, Park Eduard VII Lisbon

Ideal place for families with children (they sell pizzas and icecream 🙂 )

Great place under the umbrellas for a drink while the kids play. The kiosk is located next to the Children’s Park.

Our lunch: amondegas de atum (tuna fish, feta cheese) 8 €; salad with mozzarela e tomates 8 €; tosta e frango (toasted bread with chicken) 5.50 € ; glass of white wine 3.50 €; bottle of water 1.20 €.

Very nice staff & relaxed atmosphere! Jessica Tribolet, Francisco Varela and Santos

Central Parque Quiosque , Park Eduard VII Lisbon
Open: every day from 10:00 – 20:00
Wifi available. Facebook

The wonderful building Pavilhão Carlos Lopes is also located in this park.

The building reopened in February 2017, after extensive remodeling work and is now a large, pleasant space with lovely azulejos tile work on its interior and exterior walls.

Famous Portuguese long-distance runner Carlos Lopes

The pavilion is a venue for temporary exhibitions, while a small permanent exhibition on Carlos Lopes displays the great runner’s trophies and equipment, including the shoes he wore during the Los Angeles Olympic marathon in 1984.

Hours: Daily: 10am-6pm. Map
Admission: Free. Read more
: Portugal Visitor 

How to reach Park Eduardo VII: Metro – Parque or Marquês de Pombal Station 

Trendy square Intendente Lisbon: Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine’, former grandeur & a lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit wonderful Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria, formerly a place of prostitution and drugs. Nowadays this place is very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Largo do Indendente Mouraria Lisbon winter 2014 Ans ansd Loek

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon, in February

Dutch friends Ans de Graaf en Loek Polack.

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Even in wintertime it can be good weather in Lisbon with daytime temperatures that average over 15°C .

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

The place to be for all authentic & lovely Portuguese items, quite expensive

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, square Intendente Lisbon

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Lisbon Largo Intendente Shop 'A Vida Portuguesa' 2014

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon & famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. Although originally built as a private residence, it now belongs to the Viúva Lamego ceramic factory which displays its art inside. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East. One of the  Top Ten façades of Lisbon.

Facebook Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

 

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, street parties, grilled sardines & naughty lyrics (Pimba musica)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.

Mouraria Lisbon in June

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon.

YouTube Street party area Mouraria Lisbon 2017

In June, all the streets in the historic areas are decorated with garlands and lights, the atmosphere is wonderful!

Mouraria Lisbon June 12 2016: Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12Lisbon turns into one big party 🙂

 Festas de Lisboa ; program       Facebook

Mouraria Lisbon Santo Antonio street party June 12 2016

June 12, 2016 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria, Lisbon. Picture: Hans Stuij

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the streets

Wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets.

Festas de Lisboa June 12 2015 Mouraria1

June 12: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria: party time! 🙂

Rua da Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2017 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Mouraria Lisbon, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad

Lisbon Mouraria historical area in June party time

June 12, 2015: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year

Historical area Mouraria, Rua Guia, Lisbon drinking and dancing in the streets

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

2016 parade historical area Mouraria (YouTube)

June 12, 2016 Rua Guia, Lisbon & the yearly Saint Anthony parade

Yearly parades June 12

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.  Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages).

YouTube yearly parade

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints in historical area Mouraria Lisbon

Saint João 😉 😉 (sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Lisbon June 16 2016

Saint Antonio street party Mouraria Lisbon & the black bra at the neighbors’ balustrade 😉 😉

bar Flamingo & Dutch friend Feikje Stuij

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria Lisbon, June 12, 2017 & bar Flamingo  Strike a pose! 🙂

In this area in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom apartment with quiet sunny patio (30 m2) in this old neighborhood , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably, short term rentals)

Santo Antonio Bica party

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto – partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

Lisbon Santo Antonio restaurant Paladar

Bairro Alto historical area Lisbon

Drinks & sardinhas (sardines) with traditional bread

Lisbon Santo Antonio Trindade Pimba music

Largo da Trindade – people are dancing on Pimba music

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

Pimba is a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria 😉 😉  by Quim Barreiros)

Lisbon santo Antonio Alfama BBQ

Historic area Alfama & BBQ in the street

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube in one of the historical parts of Lisbon: Alfama

Santo Antonio Lisbon June 12 2015 Mouraria Grupo desportivo 2

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.

Lisbon Santo Antonio June Sardinhas

Historical area Mouraria in June

Sardines (sardinhas) & the Saint festivities belong together

There’s also the grilled sardines, you can smell it everywhere in the streets! It’s not a good time for sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Manjerico basil Festas de Lisboa gift R June 2

Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

mass marriages Lisbon St. Anthony’s Weddings

Mass marriages known as “St. Anthony’s Weddings”

There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages), held during the mid-June St. Anthony’s Day celebrations.

More…. YouTube

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities

MORE …

Lisbon LX FACTORY: 2nd hand & hippie chic market, Arts center, cool restaurants & Madeira bread

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon & restaurants in summertime

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history. More….

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly open air market

Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Every Sunday an open air market is held, selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube LX market

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon: several great restaurants & affordable prices

Lively and exciting cultural area full of art studios, bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open.

A cool hangout zone!

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. read  slowly, website with a virtual tour) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook