Hidden gem Lisbon city center: restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & delicious Portuguese food

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, there’s Restaurant Zé da Mouraria’. Open for a typical Portuguese lunch (almoço) from 12:00 till 16:00. Closed on Sundays.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff, June 2019

Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and an informal atmosphere  🙂

Lunches only. One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, street Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon, June 2019

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center of Lisbon are decorated with garlands and lights. Party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon, cook Ricardo & codfish (bacalhau) a very popular dish in Portugal

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December 2017

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving). Bill for 2 persons, including wine, water and coffee: € 22,50.  Desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Artur Domingos 😉

On the wall in this restaurant there’s lots of portraits of famous fado singers, born in this neighborhood: Mouraria.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon June 2019

Fado music

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. More…..

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon June 2019

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays it is a trendy area.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon, June 2019

Delicious: codfish (bacalhau). When you stay in Lisbon a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

Ze da Mouraria Lisbon December 16 dames lunch straatje

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street. Go early ( around 12:00 o’clock) or around 15:00.

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards
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Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, street parties, naughty lyrics & grilled sardines

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.    Festivities 2019

Area Mouraria Lisbon in the month of June, 2019

Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

In the month of June, all the streets in the historic areas in Lisbon are decorated with garlands and lights, the atmosphere is wonderful! 🙂

Lisbon, Rua dos Remédios, area Alfama June 2019

Every year mid-June, the time-honoured Santo António celebrations take over the streets of Lisbon, filling them with grilled-sardine and sangria-selling stalls, cheery bunting, and happy people. More..

Lisbon historic area Mouraria in June

View from terrace cafe/restaurant Bruta FlorLargo da Severa, Lisbon 

Who was matchmaker Saint AnthonySanto António (15 August 1195 – 13 June 1231)?

June 12, 2018: The Saint Anthony’s mass marriages  in Lisbon. Picture: Josephine Lucassen

YouTube weddings (casamentos)

Celebrated since before the 25 April Revolution in 1974, the Santo António weddings are held to give cash-strapped local couples the chance to wed in a large joint ceremony. More…

Area Mouraria Lisbon June 2019, Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

Saint Anthony’s bridesYouTube 

The lucky couples receive everything free of charge including the ring, wedding dress and honeymoon as part of an annual competition organised by the city council.

Party time ! Historic area Mouraria June 12, 2018. Picture: Rob van Scherpenseel

Square : Largo da Severa 2 Lisbon

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the narrow streets. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!  🙂

YouTube Saint Anthony street parties historic area Mouraria Lisbon

People are dancing on Pimba musica

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

An example of Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria ! 😉 😉 by Quim Barreiros)

June 12, Eve of Santo Antonio, Mouraria Lisbon

The kings of the sardine (os reis da sardinha)  😉

Grilled sardines & Saint Anthony parties belong together!

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad in June

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Mouraria Lisbon June 12, 2016, Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

Everywhere in the streets of the historic areas in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up with people in party mood.

June 12, 2019 : feast of Saint Santo Antonio & romantic couple overlooking the festivities 🙂

In this area, short term rentals : my 100 m2 3-bedroom apartment with quiet lovely patio (30 m2) , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably

Margriet de Vrieze & sardine party 🙂  Mouraria Lisbon

 Festas de Lisboa       Facebook

Waiting for the Mouraria yearly parade 2018…

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

Yearly parades June 12 : Youtube 2018

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm, June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.

Area Mouraria Lisbon & yearly parade June 12, 2019,  Santo Antonio Marchas Populares

Each group represents one of Lisbon’s twenty neighborhoods There ‘s a winner for the best performance and costumes. More..

Marcha da Mouraria 2018

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria June 12, 2018

How to reach this area

 Rua Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2019 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria, Lisbon.

Wine, sangria, beer,  sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the narrow streets.

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015

Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints

Saint João 😉 😉

(sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Santo Antonio party June 12, 2019

How about a Chinese restaurant selling typical Portugese snacks? 🙂

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto

YouTube Partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in area Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood. Every bar and club shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

June 2019, Lisbon & historical area Alfama

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Love poems

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities. Picture: Luc de Leersnyder

MORE …

Breathtaking views Lisbon: Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Cacilhas, short ferry trip & great Portuguese food

Don’t miss the opportunity to visit  the south bank of the river Tagus: views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing! Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus: Cacilhas,  a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : cheap)

Riverfront terrace restaurant Ponto Final’, Cacilhas, amazing view downtown Lisbon. September 2017

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacihas and vice versa

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Planning a trip to Lisbon? 

Check the availability calender: my 100 m2 authentic apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovely patio in the historical part of Lisbon (Dutch owner)

Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.

restaurante Ponto FInal view downtown Lisbon

Restaurant Ponto Final’s terrace at lunchtime in June

Reasonable prices

You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.

May 2019: Chris Hartman & Bart Cools 🙂

Great location

€20/25 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague

We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.

Bill for 3 persons 58.50 euro.

Lisbon Ponto Final Restaurant Sophie en Jurre 2015 2

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier

Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.

Restaurante Ponto Final uitzicht brug

View 25 April Bridge

It can be rather windy along the river Tagus, so don’t forget a sweater in case you like to have dinner here. Or, order a bottle of wine and a starter, enjoy it outside for at least a glass, then move inside for the main dish.

Restaurant Ponto Final Cacilhas Lisbon amazing view

A warm summer evening while the sun is fading….whow!

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect romantic location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, splendid view old town Lisbon

In case ‘Ponto Final’ is closed, the neighbor restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’Portuguese and international cuisine, is also a great place to enjoy your lunch or dinner!  🙂

Cacilhas Lisbon view Restaurant Atira-te-ao-rio’ and Cristo Rei statue

Cacilhas and the famous Cristo Rei statue

The elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue  (1 euro returnticket) is situated quite close to restaurant Ponto Final .

Svetlana & Sergy from Prague

Stunning views! Close to the elevator.

Several possibilites how to travel to the Cristo Rei Monument

Ferry-Lisbon Cacilhas

Ferry timetable

From Lisbon, Cais do Sodré ( Lisbon’s major bus, metro & trainstation) to Cacilhas, the other side of the river Tagus and vice versa

Ponto Final Lissabon Ans

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon in wintertime. Picture: Loek Polack

During winter season in Lisbon this place is also worth a visit 🙂 !  But it can be rather cold and very windy!

Wintertime Sunset video.

Cristo Rei Statue, Cacilhas, Lisbon

The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.

Cristo Rei statue Lisbon

May 2019: Chris Hartman and Bart Cools  🙂

Yellyfish. Picture Svetlana Borodina

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Restaurant Ponto Final, Cacilhas Cais Ginjal 72, Cacilhas , Almada,

Phone: (00351) 212 732 108. Mail:  pontofinalrest@gmail.comClosed: Tuesday and December 21st till January 21st.       Facebook

Lisbon LX Factory Gastrobar ‘Rio Maravilha’: great river views & disappointing experience

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha (Wonderful River) is situated on the fourth floor of one of the nowadays trendy ‘LX factory’ buildings in the Alcântara (‘bridge’ in Arabic) district in Lisbon, surrounded by huge windows overlooking the Tagus river, the 25 April bridge and the Cristo Rei statue .

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha LX Lisbon view Tagus river 4th floor

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha Lisbon & wonderful view 25 April bridge from a formerly factory building

Very different from the usual 🙂

We didn’t have to wait long before the friendly welcoming staff seated us at a small table near one of the the huge windows: what a wonderful view! The multi flowered designed chairs and the bright pink coloured outfits chosen for the waitresses are quite surprising.

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha LX Lisbon 4th floor flowered chairs 2

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon & the restaurant’s decor

The whole space is very different from the usual. But you can expect this from those who already are experienced of managing remarkable spaces in Lisbon like unique bar ‘Pensao Amor’ in a former red light district and restaurant ‘Casa do Pasto’ , with sophisticated Portuguese cuisine. A few months ago this place, ‘Rio Maravilha’ was opened, influenced by Brazilian flavors.

Restaurant RIO Maravilha LX Factory Lisbon 4

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon: squid salad & grilled mushrooms

We decided to order a few small dishes like Salade de Lulas (squid salad, grilled sweet potatoes, onion and croutons) € 15.60, Cogumelos na Brasa (grilled mushrooms, foliage of sour cream and chestnuts) € 13.70, Ovo BT (egg BT) € 9.80, Hambúrguer de Novilho (veal) € 9.10,  and a bottle of white wine: VB Filoco € 12.00.

Surprising : Ovo BT, a poached egg accompanied by cream cheese with some marmalade, parmesan cheese and ibérico pancetta.

Restaurant RIO Maravilha LX Factory Lisbon wonderful views

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon & wonderful views

Disappointing

The Hambúrguer de Novilho (veal) was not such a good experience: we ate just a little bit of it, due to the unpleasant ‘aftertaste’. According to the waitress nothing was wrong, but both we had no good feeling, also afterwards… (the restaurant is aware of our complaint, they asked to come again to enjoy a better experience, that’s all 🙁  ). BTW: the hamburger was not mentioned on our bill.

Lisbon LX Factory restaurant Rio Maravilho ambiance

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, LX factory Lisbon, entrance & very friendly staff

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha – eating & dancing
Tuesday from 18:00 – 02:00
Wednesday u/i Saturday 12:30 – 02:00 – Sunday: 12:30 -18:00
Closed on Monday – facebook Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX Factory | 4th floor, Lisbon  MORE about this area

Top tourist attraction Lisbon: bronze sculpture Portuguese poet Pessoa, a poem & history

The bronze sculpture in Lisbon of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) is extremely popular.

Lisbon cafe A Brasileira tourist attraction statue Fernando Pessoa

Sculpture of famous poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl, almost 80 years after his death!   🙁

Top tourist attraction

Famous cafe ‘A Brasileira’  ‘s terrace in Lisbon (Rua Garrett 120) is a real tourist attraction. Poet Fernando Pessoa once was a regular customer. His table in bronze was created by Lagoa Henriques.

Pessoa statue Rua Garett A Brasileira9

Famous old cafe ‘A Brasileira’  (‘The Brazilian’, opened in 1905) Lisbon, Rua Garrett

Who was poet and writer Fernando Pessoa?

Pessoa was largely unknown in Portugal until after his death in 1935. The man has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists nowadays, all day long!

Lisbon Pessoa statue Rua Garrett & friend Hans

Sculpture poet Fernando Pessoa Lisbon & Dutch admirer Hans

‘The best way to travel is to feel’ Pessoa wrote, ‘so feel everything in every possible way.’ Pessoa was born in Lisbon in 1888.

Apart from his high school years which he spent with his mother and half brothers in South Africa, he lived in Lisbon without a break, without taking public holidays, without traveling abroad. He did so with the help of heteronyms, inventing many lives (and cities) out of his own, spent between the Chiado area, where he lived.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcada table Pessoa famous Portuguese writer

Quality Restaurant Martinho da Arcade, Lisbon.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcade Lisbon & Pessoa’s table

Portugal’s famous poet and writer Pessoa spent a lot of his time in cafes (like Cafe Martinho da Arcada, where he wrote and drank a lot . He died in 1935, aged 47.

Pessoa’s table is still there…

Fernando Pessoa

Fernando Pessoa

Casa (house) Fernando Pessoa, Rua Coelho da Rocha, 16, Campo de Ourique.

Open from Monday – Saturday 10:00-18:00.

Pessoa drawing Travessa do Sequeiro

Drawing Fernando Pessoa, Travessa do Sequiero Lisbon

“Acordar”, poem by Álvaro de Campos, one of Fernando Pessoa’s various ‘heteronyms’ (imaginary characters).

“Acordar da cidade de Lisboa mais tarde do que as outras
Acordar da Rua do Ouro
Acordar do Rossio, as portas dos cafés
Acordar…..
E no meio de tudo a gare, que nunca dorme
Como um coração que tem que pulsar através de vigilia e do sono”

“The waking up of Lisbon, later than other cities
The waking up of Rua do Ouro
The waking up of Rossio Square, at the doors of its cafes
Waking up…..
And in the middle of it all the train station, which never rests
Like a heart that has to beat in both waking and sleeping hours”

Pessoa drawing Rua 1 Dezembro Lisbon

Rua Primeiro de Dezembro, April 2009

Looking for a vacation apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals).

Tiny Ginja bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon: popular berry liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Ginja liqueur April15 2

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street tourists

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

My 100 m2 apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovley patio is 5 minutes walk from here (short term rentals)

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Felipe

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Lisbon cafe Amigos da Severa Mouraria Luc e Erika fado

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa people street live fado
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and Lisbon’s first fado singer
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa owner sr. Antonio Pais May15
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
June 2019, Artur Domingos & Gabrielle
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Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Lisbon: discover 900 years old area Mouraria: restaurants, shops, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, in 2019 it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 . Facebook 

YouTube: a walk through Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Area Mouraria Lisbon in the month of June

Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Very popular Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria’, a hidden gem!  🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

Facebook

Concept bar ‘Chez César’  Mouraria, Lisbon & owner César (L)

New trendy concept bar in Mouraria area: ‘Chez César’ (2018)

‘ Friends, tourists, groove music lovers, wine aficionados or cocktail seekers looking for authenticity are welcome!’   🙂

Lisbon: bar& concept store ‘Chez César’ Mouraria area June 2019

Facebook Chez César Bar Lisboa

Where ? Largo do Terreirinho 21, Lisbon

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros: 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno

Cozy terrace in a courtyard . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).  Very friendly owners​!  🙂

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Our bill for 3 persons 27 euro: grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno (& bakery Doce Mila) area Mouraria Lisbon

Open every day from 10:00 till 21:30, closed on Sunday

Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & fado performance at midnight

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Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.  € 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: Vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seating on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

My apartment in Mouraria Lisbon (short-term rental). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Looking for a great place to stay in historic area Mouraria? Check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio  🙂

Area Mouraria is easy to reach: close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

YouTube: area Mouraria Lisbon

Lovely traditional Portuguese ceramics shop at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owners makes me feel like buying a lot..  !  🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon ceramic shop Jan. 2017 & Loes Broere

Portuguese ceramics shop: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & Loes Broere

Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramic Bordalo Pinheiro black cat

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramic 3

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Lisbon

June 8, 2019. Picture: Christel Leenen

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  😉  many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramics swallow

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramics hanging codfish

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics galinha

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Short term rentals in Lisbon

Of course there’s a ‘good luck’ rooster in my 3-bedroom apartment with lovely sunny patio in Lisbon  😉

And also a swallow nest (andorinha), a symbol of loyalty and love  🙂

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics sardines

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

Lisbon Feira da Ladra shop Armazem Caldas tableware1

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112

Open from 11:00 – 19:00 (also on Sunday). Closed: Monday & Wednesday
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon Armazem das Caldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Restaurants former Palace Chiado Lisbon (1781): 7 chefs, 7 fine dining areas & history

The atmosphere is great in this former palace in the heart of Lisbon. Once the recidence of a nobleman who loved to party, now everyone is welcome to admire the beautifully restored rooms, while enjoying fine food and drinks.

Lisbon Chiado Palace Chiado Delisbon Aelio

Welcome! Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & very nice waiter Aélio

History: Barão (Baron) Joaquim Pedro Quintela, 1st Conde de Farrobo

This elegant palace in Chiado (name of a square and its surrounding area) in Lisbon was built in 1781, where the aristocracy and bons vivants danced, enjoyed lavish banquets and admired new works of art. Baron de Quintela was born in this palace.

Lisbon Palacio Chiado wonderful restored April 2016 Mobile phone

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon (built in 1781 & a mobile phone….. )

Baron de Quintela: excesses and inordinate feasting

The future 2nd Baron of Quintela and 1st Conde of Farrobo was born in this palace, on 11 December 1801. Despite his importance in political, social and cultural life in Portugal at the time, he will always be remembered for his excesses and revels.

And intrinsically associated with the palace is the famous Portuguese expression ‘farrobodó‘ (from ‘forrobodó’ which literally means having a great party 😉 ).

More about the palace and its history…..

Lisbon Palacio Chiado wonderful restored April 2016 2

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016

Renewed Palácio Chiado opened February 2016: fine dining & entertainment

The former home of Baron Quintela opened to the public under the name Palácio Chiado.
The restoration works took more then one and a half year. The historic rooms nowadays host alternatives for fine dining and other forms of entertainment for Lisbon residents and visitors. The palace will also have a varied cultural program.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, 1st floor April 2016

7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts

On the ground floor is a bar, with tables for dining, but simply chill out with a drink is also a possibility. There are seven chefs and their 7 gastronimical concepts, from sushi to burgers, and about 250 seats. The idea is to grab the plate and sit where you want.

It feels a bit like Time Out Ribeira Market in a more sophisticated setting.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 teacupsand small wooden forks

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & tea for 2 and a chocolate cake

Tea bags & small wooden cake forks

We decided to order tea for two (1 st floor) and a small chocolate cake to share, because we just had lunch in another restaurant in Lisbon.

In this elegant palace with grandeur and beautiful frescoed ceilings we expected an elegant soft pastel designed tea set and gold colored spoons, but not just teabags to dip in our cups and small wooden cake forks to eat the cake?  😉 😉

Chá (tea) for 2: 4 euro. Bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) 2.50 euro

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 fresco ceiling2

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & one of the beautiful frescoed ceilings

Restaurants:

The historic salons of the Palácio Chiado now host seven prestigious fine dining area’s.

Traditional Portuguese snacks (petiscos), cocktails & sparkling wines with fish and shellfish, hamburgers, steaks, light and healthy meals, seafood and sushi.

More details about the restaurants

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Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & Erika Reusens

Palácio Chiado Lisbon: really worth a visit!
Rua do Alecrim, 70 – Lisbon
Wonderful Website (also in Enlish)   FACEBOOK
Sunday till Wednesday from 12:00 – 24:00
Thursday till Saturday from 12:00- 02:00

Video inauguration of the Chiado Palace with hundreds of guests

Despite occupying a considerable area of Rua do Alecrim, the Palace has only one entry, at number 70.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 sushi restaurant

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon

Baron Quintela Room for private events (your own aristocratic party? 😉 )

Seating 16 to 25, Quintela Room can be hired for private events, for a discreet meal, a dinner with friends, or professional events. More…..

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 DINING AREA

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & dining area

Restaurant/winery Vestigius Lisbon: Tagus riverfront dining, creative decor & live music

Located in the Cais do Sodré area in Lisbon with a privileged view of the Tagus River,  restaurant/cafe Vestigius offers a fabulous terrace space!

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Vestigius cafe/ restaurant Lisbon near the Tagus river

Vestigius offers Portuguese and Italian cuisine: pizza’s hamburgers, tapas, Portuguese petiscos and snacks, to accompany the great diversity of wines, gins and cocktails. In addition it’s a meeting place for arts & culture, music and literature.

vestigious-lisbon-restaurant-nov-16-tagus-river-vintage-furniture

Vestigius restaurant Lisbon near the Tagus river & wonderful vintage decor

Former warehouse in ruins & artistic charm

Originally this place was a port warehouse in ruins from the nineteenth century near the river Tagus. Now it’s turned into a space with a wonderful vintage decor, made from abandoned warehouse wreckage and second-hand parts, acquired in auctions and fleamarkets like the legendary Feira da Ladra in Lisbon

vestigious-lisbon-restaurant-nov-16-tagus-river-terrace-upstairs

Vestigius restaurant Lisbon near the Tagus river & 2nd floor terrace

Stunning river views

The terrace on the second floor gives stunning views of the April 25 bridge and the Cristo Rei statue, but the (good) music from the speakers near our table was too loud to talk with each other.

vestigious-lisbon-restaurant-nov-16-tagus-river-vintage-decor

Vestigius restaurant Lisbon near the Tagus river & wonderful vintage decor

Exhibitions & Music 

An essential component in Vestigius are the exhibitions, whether painting, drawing, photography or other areas and supports. Every month there’s a new exhibition. More…
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Hamburger Vestigius: € 11.50; Spark water € 3.50, coffee € 2.50
Fridays – Live music at 8.30 pm & DJ’s at 11:00 pm
Blues and rock from the 60’s to the 80’s, as well as adapting electronic music to an acoustic version. More..
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Vestigius restaurant Lisbon near the Tagus river & tapas
Delicious tapas
Calamares (squid) € 8.50, pão (bread) € 2.50, baked potatoes € 5.50; glass of white wine: Portal da Calçada Reserva (vinho verde, young wine) € 5.00, coffee € 2.50
vestigious-lisbon-restaurant-nov-16-tagus-view-casa-de-banho-toilet
Vestigius restaurant Lisbon near the Tagus river & remarkable bathroom
Vestigius
Cais do Gás, Armazém A, n.º 17
Lisbon – facebook
Website (& cultural agenda)Open: every day of the week
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Vestigius restaurant Lisbon: location near the Tagus river

Stylish Royale Café Lisbon: surprising patio, creative cuisine & elegant area Chiado

Entering Royale Café in Lisbon, we were pleasantly surprised by the stylish interior…. but the biggest surprise is the back patio: just lovely!

Royale Café Lisbon & lovely garden patio

Located in the elegant district Chiado in Lisbon, Royale Café offers creative  cuisine with mediterranean ingredients (great vegetarian options) and fine wines.

Royale Café Chiado area, Lisbon

Quiet patio overgrown with lovely plants

Being a group of 10 people, we were lucky still enough space was available for us.  We loved the food and the cute litte outside area, overgrown with lovely plants and with lots of shade.

Royale Café Lisbon & quiet patio July 2018

Our bill for 10 persons: 167 euro

Lunch including 2 bottles of fine wine (Quinta de S. Sebastião) and some beers. Homemade creative specialties (natural- and organic products) for a good price!  🙂 . Lovely spot for a brunch (on Sundays and bankholidays). Menu

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café’s design interior is inspired by Scandinavian cafés.

Highly recommended if you are looking for some place to go which is not just traditional Portuguese.

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café – very nice English speaking staff
Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
Nº29 Chiado, LISBON
Website & reservations  Facebook
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00351) 93 861 13 70   Free WiFi, dog friendly
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Royale Café Lisbon & streetside terrace, Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
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Open: Monday – Wednesday: 12am – 10:30pm
Thursday – Friday: 12am – 11:30pm
Saturday: 12am – 04pm
Sundays & Holidays: 12am – 10:30pm
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Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro Lisbon (Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro)

Azulejos: The Art of Lisbon’s Tiles 

Nearby: one of the most photographed squares of Lisbon’s tiled buildings. Dating back to 1863 it is covered in pale orange and yellow tiles portraying mythological images. More…

 

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo Lisbon: amazing former Moorish Palace & traditional dishes

A few minutes walk from Rossio Square,  behind a small door in a popular tourist street in Lisbon, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, there’s Casa do Alentejo: suddenly you step in an amazing Moorish palace, with an impressive courtyard!

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo Lisbon, a former Moorish palace

Casa do Alentejo’ was created 85 years ago, as a purpose to be a meeting place for people from Portugal’s historical province Alentejo (além Tejo means beyond the Tagus) and to cultivate its unique culture. At that time many people from this region left home in search for a better life in Lisbon.

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo Lisbon, a former Moorish palace

The palace dates from the last quarter of the 17th C., but its current appearance is a result of considerable alterations carried out in 1918.

Nowadays here’s the headquarters of the association of the Alentejo people.

Casa do Alentejo Lisbon, a wonderful former Moorish palace

Ballroom & activities

Today many activities take place here: on Saturdays the ‘Alentejo afternoons’ (tardes Alentejanas), with choral groups. On Sunday, dancing begins at 3:30 pm in the beautifull ballroom. Mostly elderley people come here to socialize.

There’s also a library and a handicraft shop of typical products of Alentejo (downstairs).

Lisbon Casa do Alentejo 7 Restaurant2

Casa do Alentejo Lisbon, a former Moorish palace & of the restaurants

Beautiful tiles (ajulejos) & Portuguese history

The dining rooms are picturesque, with open fireplaces and decorated with beautiful tiles (azulejos). The azulejo is a form of Portuguese painted, tin-glazed, ceramic tilework.

Tiles (azulejos) in one of the rooms of the Palace of Queluz, close to Lisbon.

The Palace of Queluz,  queen Joaquina Carlota & sexual orgies

Tiles have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. Azulejo comes from the Arabic word az-zulayj, meaning polished stone. Wherever you go in Portugal, azulejos are to be found inside and outside cafes, churches, palaces, ordinary houses and even ceilings, train- or subway stations.

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo, April 10 2019 & lunch with Daniel Mateus

Average price 3-course meal: 25 euro

Our choice for lunch: ensopado de borrego (lamb stew): 13 €, arroz de gambas (prawn and rice) 15 €. Small bottle of wine Monte de Vaqueira: 6 €.

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58.

Opening hours: 12pm to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm every day. 
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Website Restaurant Casa do Alentejo Lisbon

Former Moorish palace Casa do Alentejo Lisbon

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58, Lisbon

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo Lisbon street

Restaurant Casa do Alentejo is a wonderful exception in this street: no tourist trap! More….