Historic square ‘Largo do Carmo’ Lisbon: gothic ruins, Eurovision Song Contest 1974 & bloodless military coup

Wonderful Largo do Carmo  is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon: beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!

Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

Lisbon Largo do Carmo1

Largo do Carmo, springtime 2014

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio,

10 minutes walk from this wonderful square

Lisbon square Largo do Carmo kiosk 2

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo wikipedia jacarandas

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Largo do Carmo Military Police Station

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  theCarnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

25-abril Carnation Revolution 1974 Lisbon

Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos)

was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.

More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum 1

Largo do Carmo Lisbon
Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa2
Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755
Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno Álvares Pereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died.
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa3
 Largo do Carmo Lisbon: amazing view over Lisbon
 How to get there? How to avoid ticket queues !
The famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa video), Rua do Santa Gusta, built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high), can bring you to the Carmo Square.  
As an alternative to the elevator (and to avoid the ticket office queues  – which can be horrendous) – I prefer to walk via Rua Garrett, and turn right into Calçada do Sacramento, it’s not too steep!
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Santa Justa lift view from roof terrace warehouse Pollux
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Beautiful city view of Lisbon and Santa Justa Lift
From the roof terrace of Pollux, a huge warehouse, Rua dos Fanqueiros 276. There’s a pleasant roof terrace & bar/cafe.

Unique bar ‘Pensão Amor’ (‘Love’ Guesthouse) Lisbon: former red light district, sailors, pink street & pole dance

Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon, located behind the Time Out famous market & foodhall near the river Tagus, was for decades known as a street in the city’s red light district with bars named after European capitals (like Copenhagen,  Oslo or Roterdão (Rotterdam) and Jamaica bar to attract the sailors who stepped off their boats here.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: wonderful drawings on the walls of the stairs

Former red light district

‘Pensão Amor’ is located in a typical Portuguese 18th-century building. Once a cheap pension with rooms rented by the hour to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love 😉

Along the 5 floors of the building you can admire remake copies of old posters from burlesque shows and peep shows.

Drawing artist Mario Belem

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes

Wonderful décor

The ceilings of this former ‘guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: the pole dance room

Pole dance & YouTube: Marina mey

Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon

Area Cais do Sodré  

Nowadays this area is a hip and trendy region in Lisbon.

Rua Nova do Carvalho is a street lined with hip bars and clubs that become crowded after 2AM when the bars in the legendary area Bairro Alto start to close.

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy pink street in Lisbon

More remarkable bars in this street:

bar/cafe Sol e Pesca, and Bar da Velha Senhora (Old Ladies Bar).

‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – Erika Reusens admires the bar in burlesque style

The bar has two entrances Rua do Alecrim 19  including an outside café terrace) and on Rua Nova do Carvalho. YouTube

Pensão Amor Art & culture, Bars | Cocktails  € 8.00, beer € 3. Facebook

Mon – Wed 12:00 – 02:00, Thu – Fri 12:00 – 04:00, Sat 18:00 – 04:00

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – stairs to the bar

YouTube

More about the the metamorphosis of this area: Portugaldailyview & video

Looking for a short-term apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment in historic area Mouraria with 30 m lovely private patio 🙂

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon : drawing stairs to the bar

Fijne privé patio 30 m2: authentiek 3 slpk. appartement 100 m2 in Mouraria Lissabon: tot 6 pers. Sat. TV & BBQ

Prima uitgangspunt om Lissabon te ontdekken, ook voor senioren. Hartje stad. Direct van eigenaar, verhuur sinds 2006. Heerlijke- en rustige patio!

Prive patio (ommuurd en rustig)  & vrienden Rob en Felipe

Prijs: 35-40 € pp pn met 2 pers. Met 4-6 pers. € 100/130 p.n. Bij 5 of meer nachten 10 % korting. Kinderkorting. Hartje stad, nabij metro vanaf het vliegveld en startpunt trammetje 28Patio (rustig, 30 m2) met 2 BBQ’s waar gerookt kan worden. Facebook

BESCHIKBAARHEIDS kalender

Straat: (Google straatfoto is niet juist). PortugalioMouraria, Rua do Terreirinho Lissabon 

Mouraria appartement Lissabon juni 2016: rustig prive terras (30 m2)

Zon op de rustige patio (30 m2) van begin maart tot eind september. 

Reserveren of meer info (vanaf 3 nachten, geen aparte kamers te huur)mail naar Julie Kruijs thelisbonconnection@gmail.com  , tel. 0653941845 (ook WhatsApp). Skype: juliekr1956.

Filmpje over de historische wijk Mouraria Lissabon. Vlakbij het prachtige plein Intendente  . Lucky TV: Willy & Max in Lissabon 😉 😉 😉

Mouraria appartement Lissabon oktober 2017: kamer

Aankomsttijd: 15:00, vertrektijd 11:00.  In gezamenlijk overleg is flexibiliteit mogelijk. Na 23:00 uur inchecken: 25 euro

Fado zangeres Mariza

Zangeres Mariza groeide op in deze wijk YouTube

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon kamer en suite aan de straatkant

Thelisbonconnection:

mijn blog over Lissabon (nuttige- maar ook heel veel aangename info over de stad en omgeving).

  Casa rosa Mouraira Nov 15 2

Appartement Mouraria oktober 2015 na werkzaamheden: nieuw dak en – façade, casa rosa 🙂

Voor wie er van houdt tijdelijk tussen de bevolking te vertoeven in een 900 jaar oude volkswijk.

mouraria-apartement-lissabon-juli-zonnig-terras-bbq

Appartement Mouraria in juli: zonnige patio (30 m2) en 2 BBQ’s

120 jaar oud appartement in Mouraria, historisch Lissabon, 2e etage (ca. 110 m2) met 3 slaapkamers, gratis gebruik WiFi en satelliet TV met o.a. Ned./Belgische zenders. Uitstekende stoelen en bedden.

 

Geen nachtelijk café-lawaai, wel komt er bij vlagen verkeer door de nauwe straatjes .

Taxi

Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km. (per taxi € 10-12 incl. bagage). Ophalen met naambord is te regelen: € 20. Het appartement is makkelijk per metro te bereiken (metro, halte plein Martim Moniz).

Appartement Mouraria : zonnige en rustige patio  (30 m2)

Startpunt trammetje 28,  taxistandplaats en bussen bij plein Martim Moniz is 3 min. lopen.

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon: rustige privé patio (30 m2) met BBQ gedeelte, juni 2017

Castelo de São Jorge ligt op loop afstand.

Appartement Mouraria in historische wijk in Lissabon & keuken, januari 2017

Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica zijn makkelijk bereikbaar.

De legendarische 16e-eeuwse uitgaanswijk Bairro Alto is ca. 15 min. lopen.

Lisbon Mouraria area seen from Costa do Castelo

Mouraria, historische wijk in Lissabon

Historische wijken worden langzamerhand gerestaureerd, ook Mouraria, dat haar naam dankt aan vroegere bezetters, de Moren (Os Mouros).

Mouraria restaurant Jose Maria lunch Pedro Rita

Pedro Rita (voetbaljournalist, woont in de buurt) overhandigt de sleutels bij aankomst in Lissabon

Het straatje ligt dichtbij twee centrale- en monumentale pleinen Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio in de volksmond) , Praca da Figueira en plein Martim Moniz

Plein Martim Moniz YouTube, lekker eten, live muziek en meer!

Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de  ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een oude multiculturele (volks)wijk en toch typisch Portugees, met fado restaurantjes.

room-mouraria-apartment-nov-2016

Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer november 2016

In de buurt: bakkers met heerlijke verschillende soorten verse broodjes) en onweerstaanbaar lekkere Portugese gebakjes, zoals bijvoorbeeld het beroemde roomtaartje Pastel de Nata: een caloriebom  🙂

Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer Kerstperiode 2016/2017

Restaurantjes in de buurt

De supermarkt is 10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement, er zijn veel kleine winkeltjes in de buurt en typisch Portugese restaurantjes (ca. 9 euro p.p.). Het is veelal goedkoper om uit eten te gaan dan om zelf te koken.

Restaurant Rua do Terreirinho 58 José Maria and Laurinda

In het straatje: Restaurantje Jose-Marie en zijn vrouw Laurinda Mouraria

Klimaat & kleding

Het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ‘s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer. .

Mouraria apartment Paula cleaning garden

Mouraria apartement Lissabon: Paula Ferreira verzorgt de (uitstekende) schoonmaak

Tickets: : Ryan Air (vanaf Eindhoven, binnenkort ook vanaf Schiphol) TAP (Portugese luchtvaartmaatschappij),  Transavia.nl,   Easyjet Lissabon,  KLM, Vueling (tip). Route sneltrein door Portugal: Alfa Pendular (online ticket reserveren  vanaf 30 dagen vooraf is mogelijk).

appartementLissabon Foto Emil Roes

Slaapkamer 1 appartement Mouraria Lissabon. Foto: Emil Roes

Indeling appartement : (woonkamer, 3 slaapkamers met ramen, badkamer, keuken & patio, 30 m2)

  • woonkamer met  2-zits comfortabele (slaap)bank en grote antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel met 4  stoelen (Linum, ook geschikt voor terras)  en een gemakkelijke extra stoel (Linum). Originele balkenvloer in alle kamers. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas aan de straatkant. Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 81 cm LCD TV, radio, CD-speler, WiFi-aansluiting;
  • 3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat):
  • slaapkamer met 2 een-persoons (boxspring, 90×200) bedden, aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast en een gemakkelijke stoel. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas;
  • tweede rustig gelegen slaapkamer (met raam, uitzicht op de tuin van de buren) en een 2-persoons bed (210×180), antieke linnenkast;
  • derde rustige slaapkamer (met raam naar de patio) en comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200);
  • Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr. en babybadje;
  • badkamer met douche, ligbad en toilet. Gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid handdoeken van goede kwaliteit (geen strandlakens). Haardroger;
  • donsdekbedden en luxueus bedlinnen (Essenza);
  • keuken met tafel en 2 stoelen, 2 koelkasten, magnetron, 4-pits electrische kookplaat, oven, goede pannen, waterkoker, koffie/Nespresso apparaat, citruspers, (wijn)glazen, borden, bestek, keukenlinnen etc.;
  • zonnige (van half maart tot eind september) en rustige prive patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 2 comfortabele stoelen, 3 bamboe stoeltjes en een zonne/slaap stoel. Comfortabele Linux stoelen uit kamer en slaapkamer kunnen ook buiten gebruikt worden. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2 BBQs  en 2 muurparasols;
  • de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Mobiel airco apparaat. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden via Heatwafer ecopanelen in iedere kamer.

Appartement Mouraria historisch Lissabon: rustige patio (30 m2)

Tarieven 2017/2018
Mei t/m september, feestdagen en vakantieperiodes:
10 % korting bij een boeking van 5 nachten of meer; bij een boeking van 10 dagen of langer: 15 %.
80 € per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen 100, 5/6 pers. 120/130 . Kinderkorting in overleg.
 =
Oktober t/m april (m.u.v. feestdagen en vakantieperiodes):
 70 euro per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen 100, 5 personen 110, 6 personen € 120
10 % korting bij een boeking van 5 nachten of meer; bij een boeking van 10 dagen of langer: 15 % 
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Informeer naar aanbiedingen of langere periodes. Kinderkorting in overleg. Kinderen 0-4 jaar gratis. Chicco reis babybed en badje beschikbaar.
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Alles inbegrepen, excl. schoonmaak 40 euro. De bedden zijn opgemaakt bij aankomst. Mooi bedlinnen (Essenza), ruime voorraad handdoeken (geen strandlakens).
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 Historische buurt Mouraria in Lissabon
de buurvrouwen (as vizinhas). 
Apartment Mouraria Lisbon bathroom 1
Appartement in Mouraria Lissabon: badkamer met wasmachine en droger
WiFi internet (wel eigen laptop(s) meenemen) en satelliet TV met vele kanalen, o.a. Nederlandse en Belgische zenders.
Reservering (20 % aanbetaling) d.m.v. huurcontract incl. coulante annuleringsvoorwaarden.
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November, december (m.u.v. de Kerstperiode ),  januari en februari: prijs op aanvraag (soms ook langere periodes mogelijk). 
Prima verwarming via Heatwafer panelen in alle kamers € 25 – 50 per boeking.
Tram 28 Square Martim Moniz Mouraria Lisbon 2
5 min. lopen vanaf het appartement: startpunt trammetje 28 0p plein Martim Moniz
Startpunt legendarische gele tram 28: 5 minuten lopen vanaf het appartement
Een ‘must do’ Lissabon attractie: het legendarische trammetje 28, startpunt is vlakbij het appartement. Een ideale- en goedkope manier om de historische wijken van Lissabon te zien en de ‘miradouros’ (mooie uitkijkpunten) over de rivier De Taag.
 
Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 2e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar de tuin van de buren
Bij aankomst in het appartement staat een lekkere fles Portugese wijn in de ijskast. Zeer goed verzorgde schoonmaak, opgemaakte bedden bij aankomst.
Mouraria 3 bedroom apartment Lisbon patio March 2016
3- slaapkamer appartement Mouraria Lisbon: geurende jasmijn op de pátio (30 m2) maart 2016
De zwaluw (gekregen van Sander en Marcel 🙂 ) is een Portugees symbool dat staat voor liefde en geluk: gitzwarte zwaluwen (andorinhas) sieren menig Portugees huis   meer

Popular restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ Lisbon: delicious typical Portuguese food & fado history

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, you’ll find Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’,  Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and a very informal atmosphere . One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon in June

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon kitchen

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgílio Oliveira, the chef, preparing my lunch.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meia dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon November ’13: lunch Dutch ladies

We enjoyed the menu of the day including duck with rice and steak with a coffee sauce with garlic, 2 bottles of the restaurant’s tasty red house wine (Lisbon region). Total price for 9 persons (in 2013) : 110:50 euro.

Ze da Mouraria dec 16 2015 dameslunch

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December ’15: lunch with Dutch friends

We enjoyed Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) delicious! Jolanda, Liesbeth, Josephine, Margriet, Hendriktje, Gezina and Feikje. Bill including wine (8 persons): around 150 euro.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon street2

Mouraria , Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins has begun recently.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon meat Picanha

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 16. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood

Mouraria, very old historical part of Lisbon

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood fado Severa

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

Ze da Mouraria Lisbon December 16 dames lunch straatje

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street.

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards
Lisbon restaurant Ze da Mouraria fado pictures
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff

Impressive Metro Station area Baixa-Chiado Lisbon: free escalators avoiding stairs from Baixa to Chiado

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado is a unique and impressive subway, opened in 1998, created by architect Álvaro Siza Vieira.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado Rua do Crucifixo entrance

Metro station entrance Baixo-Chiado Lisbon, Rua do Crucifixo.

Metro station Baixo-Chiado is one of the most important transfer stations, and one of the most crowded of Lisbon. New is the extension towards the international Santa Apolónia train station, opening on 19 December 2007, more than five years late due to tunnelling problems at the waterfront.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado entrance tiles

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Beautiful white tiles are covering the station walls.

This metro station has an entrance in the Baixa city center as well as one at a much higher level in the Chiado district, linked by a series of escalators.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalator

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Instead of walking (hundreds of stairs from Baixa to Chiado), an alternative and free way is to use the escalators inside the metro station, reaching the Chiado district ca. 5 minutes later.

Of course, walking is also interesting…..

Metro Station Baixa Chiado metro lines

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

The Lisbon Metro operates from 6h30 to 01.00. Tickets: cheap 🙂

Metropolitano de Lisboa : Lisbon Metro official page. On this webste (also in English) you’ll find a map with a network diagram and explanation of the lines:

Metro Linha Azul (blue line) Metro Linha Amarela (yellow line) Metro Linha Verde (green line) and Metro Linha Vermelha (red line).

Also including a special section on subway art of Lisbon Metro stations with stunning examples of contemporary azulejos (tiles).

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalators up to Chiado

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado

Escalators up to the Chiado district.

Metro station Largo do Chiado Pessoa

Cafe ‘A Brasileira’, Largo do Chiado, near the entrance of the Chiado metro station.

The bronze sculpture of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935),  is still very popular. More…….

Exotic Palace cactus garden Lisbon ‘Tapada das Necessidades’: free access, juicy gossip & a candy-pink birthday cake

Exotic garden Tapada das Necessidades in Lisbon is a guarded secret even the most Lisboetas don’t know about. Beautiful grounds and palace peeling pink paint, with an incredible cactus garden and a setting for a picnic you usually only see in films. Since a few years it’s open to the public/tourists and it’s free!

Tapada das Necessidades garden Lisbon: birthday picnic party June 2012

Between the famous Prazeres cemetery (also really worth a visit!) and the river Tagus (Tejo) you can find this large (about 10 ha) exotical park, including a wonderful picnic area, a network of walkways, historical buildings, a garden and lakes. The grounds of the palace contain a remarkable collection of exotic plants known as “Tapada das Necessidades”.

Tapada das Necessidades Lisbon: Lilja & the candy-pink birthday cake, June 2012

Surprise birthday picnic & special birthday cake

Our lovely friend Lilja (70) from England, born in Iceland, was invited for a surprise birthday picnic. This beautiful lady likes shopping, like handbags, hats and shoes, and she loves to try on every pair of shoes before deciding whether to buy anything at all 😉  . That’s why this special birthday cake: a pink ‘hat’ decorated with elegant ladies shoes and a small handbag on top.

Exotic garden ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ Lisbon: prime location for a picnic or a lazy afternoon

The Palace (Palácio) das Necessidades was built in the 18th century in gratitude for prayers answered by Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Our Lady of the Needs, a title dedicated to the Virgin Mary), whose first devotional chapel stood on this site.

Nowadays this palace is a Portuguese National Monument

Garden ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ Lisbon: walk through the immense, amazing garden

The ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ has been the stage for some important events in Portuguese history, as exemplified in the famous case of the box that king Dom Pedro V installed at the door, in wich everyone could leave their messages and complaints to the sovereign.

From 1910, the palace remained unoccupied for almost 40 years. In around 1950 it became the headquarters of the Portuguese Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Garden Tapada das Necessidades Lisbon: Rob and Felipe, June 2012

Sanitairy facilities & trees

It is really wonderful to walk in this garden, you have the feeling that it’s all yours, because there are almost no other people around… In the park are no sanitairy facilities, the guardians at the entrance cried: ” enough trees here”!…. 😉  😉

There are three lakes surrounded by exotic vegetation, sculptures, a waterfall, a fountain and a pool. Really beautiful but faded elegance….

“Hello? Thank you! I’m currently in Lisbon.. Yes! Celebrating my 70th birthday”

Small pink-washed cottages & gossip

Besides: officially the few small pink-washed cottages in this park were once the little prince’s playhouses. But there are rumors that young women lived in those little pink houses, being the mistresses of the king …  😉

One of the little pink-painted houses in the garden: playhouse for the little prince?

The abandoned buildings create a mysterious atmosphere…..and inside there’ s a lot of trash…….   More pictures of this park, the historical buildings and the exotic plants and flowers: Beautiful garden pictures getportugal.com

Tapada das Necessidades garden Lisbon: entrance/exit near the Palace

How to get there? Take the 28 tram to Prazeres. The main entrance of the park Tapada das Necessidades is through the Largo das Necessidades. This park is open to the public every day of the week – including Saturdays and Sundays, the entrance is guarded but entry is free.

The Palace (Palácio) das Necessidades, June 2012

Open: wintertime 8h – 18h (from Monday u/i Friday), from 10h – 18h (Saturday and Sunday). Summertine 8h – 19h (from Monday u/i Friday), from 10h – 19h (Saturday/Sunday)

Kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ Lisbon, wonderful garden at fleamarket Feira da Ladra, children playground & Tagus river views

The ‘Clara Clara’ Cafe in Alfama Lisbon is a kiosk in the garden-terrace of Boto Machado (or Santa Clara), overlooking the Tagus (Tejo) River and the National Pantheon (Church of Santa Engracia) in the heart of Lisbon’s legendary flea market, Feira da Ladra.

‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

This wonderful small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (a must see when you visit Lisbon) or after visiting the National Pantheon (on the background), in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like for example Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Clara Clara terrace & view on the Tagus river, Lisbon

This garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids . A little further down, there is a playground.

Playground and game tables for children – kiosk cafe Clara Clara Lisbon

As for the menu, the cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Clara Clara terrace in summertime

An inviting terrace in summertime: you can cool off under the trees of the garden. The kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in sumertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Nothing better than a tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) on a cold afternoon. The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn)

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon’s 1900s style bar Bairro Alto: curiosities and kitch, bizarre & one of a kind!

A ‘must-see’ when you visit Lisbon! Once an old grocery store, this 1900s style bar, 10 minutes walk from  Bairro Alto ‘s nightlife is really unique!

Lisbon Paviljao Chines7 bar retaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: one of the most interesting and unusual decorated bars I’ve ever seen!

A good start to Lisbon’s nightlife. You have to ring the doorbell, like in many other Portuguese places. The reason for the closed doors is that the owners want to welcome you personally.

Lisbon Pavilhao Chines naked woman menu book

Erotic art: menu book bar Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

If you wish, you can buy a fine menu book with a lot of beautiful pictures and stories (20 euro) as a reminder of your visit.

Lisbon Paviljao Chines8 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines bar Lisbon

Fascinating collection of all sort of things, like lead soldiers, contemporary engravings, humorous ceramics and models of war planes.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines3

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: miniscule toy soldiers are perfectly aligned.

Walking from room to room is like going through a museum with curiosities and kitch from all over the world. It is said that only one man collected all this stuff….almost unbelievable!

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines4 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: nothing is for sale

Once sitting down at one of the beautiful tables, the choice of drinks (nothing is for sale, except the drinks and it’s a bit expensive..) is quite large: from tea, wine, cocktails to champagne.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines9 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

You can have a drink while listening to the jukebox playing classic rock songs from the 60’s and 70’s or play snooker, and then walk down to the  Bairro Alto and enjoy the night..

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines 10 unique bar and restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon, open from 18:00 – 02:00, smoking allowed

Address: Rua Dom Pedro V 89-91, Bairro Alto. Tel: (00351)213 424 72.

Lisbon Pavilhao Chines Bar

FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/pavilhaochineslisboa

Bronze sculpture Portugal’s famous poet Pessoa in Lisbon & too many tourist pictures

Nowadays lots of tourists walk around in Lisbon’s Chiado area and the elegant shopping area Rua Garret. The bronze sculpture of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935),  is very popular.

Lisbon cafe A Brasileira tourist attraction statue Fernando Pessoa

Lisbon: Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl, almost 80 years after his death!   🙁

Tourist attraction

Famous cafe ‘A Brasileira’  ‘s terrace in Lisbon (Rua Garrett 120) is a real tourist attraction. Poet Fernando Pessoa once was a regular customer. His table in bronze was created by Lagoa Henriques.

Pessoa statue Rua Garett A Brasileira9

Famous old cafe ‘A Brasileira’  (‘The Brazilian’, opened in 1905) Lisbon, Rua Garrett

Who was Fernando Pessoa?

Pessoa was largely unknown in Portugal until after his death in 1935. The man has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists nowadays, all day long!

Lisbon Pessoa statue Rua Garrett & friend Hans

Sculpture poet Fernando Pessoa Lisbon & Dutch admirer Hans

‘The best way to travel is to feel’ Pessoa wrote, ‘so feel everything in every possible way.’ Pessoa was born in Lisbon in 1888.

Apart from his high school years which he spent with his mother and half brothers in South Africa, he lived in Lisbon without a break, without taking public holidays, without traveling abroad. He did so with the help of heteronyms, inventing many lives (and cities) out of his own, spent between the Chiado area, where he lived.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcada table Pessoa famous Portuguese writer

Quality Restaurant Martinho da Arcade, Lisbon.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcade Lisbon & Pessoa’s table

Portugal’s famous poet and writer Pessoa spent a lot of his time in cafes (like Cafe Martinho da Arcada, where he wrote and drank a lot . He died in 1935, aged 47.

Pessoa’s table is still there…

Fernando Pessoa

Fernando Pessoa

Casa (house) Fernando Pessoa, Rua Coelho da Rocha, 16, Campo de Ourique.

Open from Monday – Saturday 10:00-18:00.

Pessoa drawing Travessa do Sequeiro

Drawing Fernando Pessoa, Travessa do Sequiero Lisbon

“Acordar”, poem by Álvaro de Campos, one of Fernando Pessoa’s various ‘heteronyms’ (imaginary characters).

“Acordar da cidade de Lisboa mais tarde do que as outras
Acordar da Rua do Ouro
Acordar do Rossio, as portas dos cafés
Acordar…..
E no meio de tudo a gare, que nunca dorme
Como um coração que tem que pulsar através de vigilia e do sono”

“The waking up of Lisbon, later than other cities
The waking up of Rua do Ouro
The waking up of Rossio Square, at the doors of its cafes
Waking up…..
And in the middle of it all the train station, which never rests
Like a heart that has to beat in both waking and sleeping hours”

Pessoa drawing Rua 1 Dezembro Lisbon

Rua Primeiro de Dezembro, April 2009

Looking for a vacation apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals).

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony: mix of religion & sensuality & open air party’s historical areas

Lisbon in June: wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets of the historical areas.

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, the ‘matchmaker ‘ (Santo António, June 13), Lisbon turns into a huge open air party!

June 12, party time! Historic area Mouraria Rua da Guia Lisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Santo António, Rua João do Outeiro.

Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint

Santo António (Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon.

Lisbon craziest night of the year in area Alfama, nearby Mouraria (YouTube)

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria in June, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.

My 3-bedroom apartment with patio is for rent in this historical area (short term rentals)

June 12 in Lisbon: Adamastor, Santa Catarina  near the Tagus River, a popular viewpoint & gathering place.

In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.

Lisbon, June 12, Bairro Alto area

The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘

June 12, 2011. Famous Bica funicular Lisbon, a popular tourist attraction

Partying in the small streets around the famous Bica funicular, highly valued by tourists.

A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto , possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B , Lisbon

Pimba music (songs with naughty lyrics)

On June 12 the festivities in Lisbon already start around noon, and everywhere you hear music coming out of the cafes and restaurants.

YouTube “Quero Cheirar o teu bacalhau” (by Quim Barreiros): ‘I would like to smell your codfish’ 😉 😉

Even the beggar near the cafe started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Historical area Mouraria in June: Rua da Guia, Lisbon

In the month of June all the narrow streets in Lisbon’s historical areas are packed with stalls selling sangria and beer. Everywhere there’s the sizzling aroma of grilled sardines – the traditional food of the Saint Anthony celebrations are grilled sardines – but you can also go for barbecued chicken, chouriços (sausage) or pork.

June 12 Lisbon historical area : Arraial da Mouraria, dancing in the streets

There’s lots of dancing through the night. The best thing to do is just keep going and enjoy! Throughout old Lisbon there are open air parties everywhere. The party goes on until dawn 🙂

More about Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria

manjerico-santo-antonio-june-08

Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon – pots with manjerico (basil) & small love poems

Basil & love poems

During the Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession

Yearly parade

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides.

Youtube movie Saint Anthony festivities 2011