Breathtaking views Lisbon: restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, 10-min ferry trip, boat taxi & octopus salad

If you visit Lisbon for a few days, a 10-minutes ferry trip to the other side of the Tagus river is really worth it. Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio is one of my favorites!

View Lisbon from Cacilhas (part of Lisbon). Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio

Right next to the elevator to the Cristo Rei Statue, restaurant Atira-te ao Rio (litt. ‘throw yourself into the river’) is a space blessed by fabolous views over old town Lisbon.  Don’t forget to bring your camera!  🙂

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon & friend Josephine Lucassen

The menu is typically Portuguese: dishes with good presentation and tasty. We ordered my favorite dish in this restaurant: salada com polvo grelhado  (octopus salad),  cous-cous com legumes e iogurt (cous-cous with vegetables and yoghurt), and cool white wine (copo de vinho branco). Bill for 2 persons: 35 euro.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon & view 25 April bridge

Wintertime

These pictures are made in September on a beautiful sunny day, but in wintertime there’s also the possibility to enjoy the views of old town Lisbon in the interior of the restaurant.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon, September 2017

In wintertime the large windows allow the view to be equally (almost as) good as outside. The restaurant features an indoor room with a burning stove and a terrace with heaters and  blankets.

Cous cous & cool white wine Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio,  Lisbon

 YouTube Cais do Ginjal Lisbon

Short stay in Lisbon? Check the calendar of my 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in the historic city center (Dutch owner) 🙂

Although on Facebook  there are some negative posts about this restaurant, my experience so far is very good !

View from restaurant Atira-te ao Rio

After passing some abandoned and ruinous very old warehouses (wonderful old buildings!) , a 10 minutes walk from the ferry, there’s restaurant Atira-te ao Rio

Wonderful very old abandoned warehouses

How to get there? 

Take a (cheap) ferry trip from the Cais do Sodré ferry terminal to Cacilhas,  (timetable vice verca) and after a 20 minutes walk along abadonded warehouses near the river Tagus there’s restaurant Atira-te ao Rio.

Cais do Sodré ferry terminal to Cacilhas,  (timetable vice verca)

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio
OPEN: every day from 12:30 – 23:00
 –
Picture: Svetlana Borodina
.

New: 2018 taxi boat service. From any deck in Lisbon

More information & phonenumber via Facebook

Picture: restaurant Atira-te Ao Rio

CLOSED? Nearby restaurant Ponto Final.  More…..

Restaurant São Cristóvão Lisbon: cheap Cape Verdean African dishes & owner Maria Levy

Restaurant São Cristóvão  is a tiny place in Lisbon’s historical city center Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon .

Tiny Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon Owner Maria Levy

Owner Maria Levy in her restaurant São CristóvãoMouraria Lisbon

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio, 10 minutes walk from this place

This small family-run restaurant is famous for its Cape Verdean- and other African dishes. The menu also includes typical Portuguese cuisine such as codfish (bacalhau) and sardines (sardinhas)

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon2

Moamba de Galinha (Angolan chicken stew), a very popular dish: € 6

Restaurant São Cristóvão is a favorite place among locals, with great food. You never pay more than € 7 for a dish. Mufete, a typical dish from Angola with fried fish, sweet potatoes, beans, peppers and cassava: € 6. Drinks: Super bock beer € 1.  Ginja , liqueur made by infusing ginja berries, a  favourite liqueur of many Portuguese: € 1,50.

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon3 owner Maria Levy

Restaurant São Cristóvão in Lisbon owner Maria do Livramento Levy

Maria Levy: ” I was born in Cape Verde , Santiago,  the largest, greenest, most African island of Cabo Verde, one of Portugal’s former African colonies. 43 years ago I moved to Portugal and around 30 years ago I opened this restaurant in Alfama”. “We can provide seating space for up to 32 people”. And, after dinner: “You must try a ponche (punch) de Cabo Verde” (€ 2).

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon pastel starter

Pastel de Milho (corn), starter 1.80 euro, originally from Cape Verde

History: the Cape Verde archipelago was uninhabited when the Portuguese discovered it in 1456. African slaves were brought to the Cape Verdian islands to work on Portuguese plantations. As a result, Cape Verdeans are mulattos (mestiços in Portuguese), who have mixed African and European origins.

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon Maria Levy grandchildren

Maria Levy and her grandchildren. The walls in the restaurant are covered with paraphernalia from the Cape Verdian Islands and pictures.

Cape Verde split away from Portugal in 1975, nowadays Lisbon is home to most of the Cape Verdean diaspora, although large communities are also to be found in Senegal, the north-east United States, Holland, France and Italy.

Restaurant Sao Cristovao Lisbon Febr 2013 dancing

Restaurant São Cristóvão: Ans de Graaf, a friend and owner Maria Levy

Maria loves the Afro-Portuguese music that fills her eatery and she invites people to dance after their dinner.

Popular singer Cesária Évora, “the Barefoot Diva’, has made Cape Verde famous all over the world. She generally performed in bare feet, as a sign of solidarity for the large number of women and children back home in the Cape Verdean Islands who cannot afford shoes. Cesária Évora: ‘Saudade’  (youtube).  More (wikipedia)

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon street

Restaurant São CristóvãoRua de São Cristovão 28-30,  Mouraria Lisbon. Phone (00351) 914752102. Open from 12:00 to 24:00, also on Sunday.

In case you visit Lisbon for the first time: this restaurant is not easy to find. From the city center walk to Rua da Madalena and climb the stairs from Escadinhas de São Cristóvão

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon how toreach

Stairs to restaurant São Cristóvão from Rua da Madalena, Mouraria Lisbon

District Mouraria ( ‘where the Moors live’) is one of the oldest areas in Lisbon. Nowadays the Moorish influence is still present, like the tiny streets and stairs. You feel like walking in a kasbah in the Middle Ages!

Restaurant São Cristóvão Alfama Lisbon street 10

Rua de São Cristovão  Lisbon, wall picture of Joaquim, a man who lived in this street. Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in this area for 6 years.

Traditional Fado Vadio Lisbon: taverna ‘Tasca do Jaime’ & black shawl of mourning

Enjoy the real fado while munching on freshly-fried cod pastries in the late afternoon in Tasca do Jaime, one of the most intriguing of Lisbon’s ‘tavernas’. Traditionally, the Fado houses are popular and a meeting spot for families and friends. Close to Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

tasca do jaime 2

‘Tasca do Jaime’ taverna Lisbon: real fado music

You won’t always find the best fadistas, but don’t let that scare you off. This is real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle, where the fado singers can enter spontaneously and improvise.

tasca do jaime 1

‘Tasca do Jaime’ taverna Lisbon, Saturday afternoon

As soon as somebody gets up to sing the audience stops talking and all the attention is on the singer. The Portuguese have a lot of respect for the performers and it is of utmost importance that the singers can concentrate and express their emotions in their singing. When the song is about to finish the audience starts applauding and cheering.

tasca do jaime 3

‘Tasca do Jaime’ taverna Lisbon

Fado Vadio on Saturdays, Sundays and public Holidays from 16:00 to 20:00, Rua da Graça 91, Lisbon.

tasca do jaime 4

‘Tasca do Jaime’ taverna Lisbon

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as one of Maria Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”.

UPDATE 2015

Restaurant Portugalia Lisbon: ‘beerhouse’ (Cervejaria) & delicious seafood

A Cervejaria is a ‘beerhouse’, where beer is produced (or used to be produced) and where you can eat as well. There are many cervejaria’s around Lisbon and the quality of the food is normally very good.

Portugalia cervejaria Lisbon Avenida Almirante Reis

‘Portugalia’ restaurant on Avenida Almirante Reis (near Praça do Chile).

Most Cervejaria’s have restaurant and a bar where you can stand and drink beer and eat snacks like a ‘prego’ which is a steak sandwich. The steak is grilled on the plate and comes with garlic in a white roll. The Portugese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one) with mustard or piri-piri.

A popular snack as well is a small plate of cooked shrimps (camarão) served with sea salt and a part of lemon. You can ask for camarão grande (big ones), camarão medio (medium) or camarão pequeno (baby shrimps).

Portugalia cervejaria Lisbon Avenida Almirante Reis 3

Portugese love there seafood with beer (or with ice cold vinho verde). So on the restaurant menu in a Cervejaria, you will find a lot of seafood (marisco). You can have big shrimps (gambas or camarão tigre), scampi (lagostim) and crab (sapateira). Cooked fresh seafood tastes fantastic with mayonaise, grilled seafood goes very well with ‘molho de limão’. This is a sauce of butter, lemon and a bit of piri-piri. If they don’t bring it, ask for it. Like in all Portugese restaurants, it’s not strange to be specific about how your food is prepared or accompanied.

The crab, sapateira, is cooked and the body is open and filled with a mixture of (among others) crab meat, vinagre, onion, pickles, tomates, eggs, parsley and port wine.

Then there’s the steaks. The steaks can be grilled or fried in a pan with butter. Ask for a steak in ‘molho de cerveja’, ‘beersauce’. It comes with a fried egg on top.

Famous cervejaria’s are restaurants Portugalia and Trindade. Trindade, situated on Rua de Trindade (near Bairro Alto), is a massive restaurant which has a beautiful garden where you can sit during summertime. Prices are a bit above average, but the decoration makes it worthwhile.

Trindade website

Cervejaria Portugalia has become a brand over the years (There are even Portugalia restaurants in shopping centers and outside of Lisbon). You will find many families with children and it’s a bit touristy. The original 80 year old Portugalia restaurant on Avenida Almirante Reis (near Praça do Chile) is certainly the best one you can choose. This is the most traditional Portugalia you can find. Before entering the restaurant you will pass the messy bar where many men hang out, eat pregos and drink beer.

Don’t get us wrong, Portugalia is certainly worth a visit. The shrimps in garlic and olive oil (below) are a treat. Fans can order merchandising on the Portugalia website.

Portugalia cervejaria Lisbon Avenida Almirante Reis Shrimps Garlic