Lisbon: discover area Mouraria, cheap restaurants, shops, bars, art, sexy & fado

Mouraria is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Cafe/restaurant Minutos Gulosos‘ (‘greedy moments’), Largo das Olarias no. 1 : great for breakfast ! Cafe € 0.55, fresh juice € 2.20, sandwich € 1.40

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.  Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 . Facebook 

YouTube: a walk through Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Area Mouraria in the month of June:  Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints, Lisbon’s craziest night).

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon. Still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas.

 

Very popular Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
.

Thomas Kahler (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahler

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars. Facebook
.
.
‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
.
.
In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
.

Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar Flamingo reopened in May 2018.   

Facebook

Open air bar TOPO

Spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ bar ‘TOPO’ (Top) overlooking popular square Martim Moniz.

Rooftop restaurant/ open air bar ‘TOPO’

Closed: Monday. Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music).

MORE information….

Where: Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Restaurant owner José Maria

Restaurant ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58, Lisbon

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese dishes! 
Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

MORE about this small cafe/restaurant….

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda area Mouraria Lisbon

Bill for 3 persons around 30 euro. Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Tiny restaurant, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
.
Nearby, a very cozy (hidden) terrace:
.

Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros: 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno

Cozy terrace in a courtyard 🙂 . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).  Very friendly owners​.

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Our bill for 3 persons 27 euro: grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno & bakery Doce Mila area Mouraria Lisbon

Fado Vadio (amateur fado singers)

On all Saturdays there’s Fado Vadio in restaurant Beco do Forno: from 13:00 – 18:00. Lunch menu (3 courses,  15.50 €).      Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
.
.
Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
.
Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
.
Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
.
The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
.
It is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
.
.
One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
.
The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
.
.
Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
.
Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
.
.

Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

.

It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza ,  started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times. Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , where great names of fado music were born, like femme fatale Maria da Severa (nearby a fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Football

Owner is Vanessa Correia, born and raised in the neighborhood. Locals like to get together to watch football, very important in Portugal! Typically Portuguese, varied grilled dishes or petiscos (portuguese tapas).

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 
Rua da Guia, 4A/BMouraria, Lisbon. € 20 for 2 persons. 
Cafe € 0.60, beer € 1.00. WiFi. Cash only.
.
.
The Food Temple: Vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
.
Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seating on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
.
Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
.

Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

My apartment in Mouraria Lisbon (short-term rental). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Looking for a great place to stay in historic area Mouraria? Check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio  🙂

Area Mouraria is easy to reach: close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

YouTube: area Mouraria Lisbon

Noisy Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon: sightseeing, polution & eco-friendly silent Tuk Tours

The last few years Tuk-Tuk cars are gaining more popularity among tourists in Lisbon. You see them everywhere in the city: cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly !  🙁  🙁

Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria Lisbon & an eco-friendly Tuk Tuk

Mouraria is a very old neighborhoud with narrow streets where big tourist buses cannot get through.

UPDATE 2018: Electric charging points will soon be installed in Lisbon and diesel tuk tuks will be banned in 2019

🙂  🙂

Apartment historic area Mouraria Lisbon & lovely quiet , private patio

My 3 bedroom apartment in this area with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals)

YouTube Movie Tuk Tuk Tour Lisbon

September 2018. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

‘Do you like to Tuk-Tuk with me’ ? 😉 Voulez-vous Tuk-Tuk avec moi? 😉  I saw a car with a led display using this text in several languages. These little Tuk Tuk vehicles are most ideal for short trips and sightseeing and capable to drive through the small streets in the ancient historical neighborhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria.

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Eco Tours Martim Moniz may 14 1

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: lots of tourists are waiting for legendary electric tram 28

Square Martim Moniz : starting point of the legendary old tram 28

Nowadays several owners of Tuk-Tuk cars are trying to persuade you to take a tour (from 45 – 60 euro for one hour), but a ride with ‘elétrico’ tram 28 will also bring you to most tourist attractions of Lisbon….and much cheaper (around 4 euro pp).

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Tuk Tuk Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho sept 14

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon: street small restaurant Jose- Maria & Laurinda

Tuk-Tuk cars, origin & polution

The Tuk-Tuk cars often run on diesel and some very old ones are imported from Asia. Auto rickshaws of Southeast Asia started from the knockdown production of the Daihatsu Midget which had been introduced in 1957. There are too many of them in Lisbon  🙁  🙁

Tuk Tuk Lisboa Baixa sept 14

Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon downtown city center & elegant shopping area Rua Garrett

Young enthusiastic drivers & Tuk-Tuk cars

One of the advantages of the tuk-tuk cars in Lisbon is the possibility making trips with young and enthusiastic people, who speak several languages. Most of them are especially trained to talk about the historic sites of Lisbon.

Eco friendly Tul Tours Lisbon f1 2

Eco friendly Tuk car in Lisbon, historic area Alfama

Eco (and silent!) Tuk Tours Lisbon

I have no commercial interest but maybe this article helps to make Lisbon cleaner!  😉 😉

Website Tuk Tours (more info and reservations)

Eco Tuk Tours Lisbon narrow streets old town Lisbon 3

Eco friendly Tuk Tour old town Lisbon: narrow streets of Alfama

Lovely traditional Portuguese ceramics shop at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owners makes me feel like buying a lot..  !  🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon ceramic shop Jan. 2017 & Loes Broere

Portuguese ceramics shop: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017

Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramic Bordalo Pinheiro black cat

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramic 3

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, is very funny…. !

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramics swallow

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramics hanging codfish

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics galinha

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Short term rentals in Lisbon

Of course there’s a ‘good luck’ rooster in my 3-bedroom apartment with lovely sunny patio in Lisbon  😉

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics sardines

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube (in historical area Alfama)

Lisbon Feira da Ladra shop Armazem Caldas tableware1

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112

Open from 11:00 – 19:00 (also on Sunday). Closed: Monday & Wednesday
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon Armazem das Caldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Lisbon Rossio Square: history cafe Suíça, shoeshine boys, pickpockets & begging hands

The beautiful and very popular tourist attraction Rossio Square, the popular name of the Pedro IV Square (Praça de D. Pedro IV), has been the setting of popular revolts and celebrations, bullfights and executions.

Rossio Lisbon Shoe shine boy

Rossio square 

Nowadays Rossio square is a preferred meeting place of Lisbon natives and tourists alike and the most congested area for traffic in the city center.

Lisbon Rossio Square

Rossio Square Lisbon

This square has been a meeting place for people of Lisbon for centuries. Some of the cafés and shops of the square date from the 18th century, like the Café Nicola, where Barbosa du Bocage , a Portuguese poet, used to meet friends.

Lisbon cafe Nicola Rossio Square

Famous Café Nicola, Praça Dom Pedro IV 26 (founded in 1929).

It was here that the first Portuguese women dared to break the male stranglehold on cafe-going.  Rossio’s cafes are popular for sitting and watching the world go by.

Lisbon Rossio Pastelaria Suica inside

Pastelaria Suíça, Praça Dom Pedro IV 101

UPDATE September 1, 2018

On August 31, 2018 Pastelaria Suiça – a veritable symbol of Rossio – closed its doors forever. It is said a 5  star hotel will be built here .. (-:  (-:  More……

Pastelaria Suíça was a traditional Portuguese cafe/restaurant, famous for its huge variety of delicious cakes and pastries.

Lisbon Pastelaria Suica delicious cakes

Pastelaria Suíça, Praça Dom Pedro IV 101

During World War II this place (Suíça means Switzerland) was the meeting point where those in exile negotiated their tickets to freedom.

Lisbon Patelaria Suica Rossio

Pastelaria Suíça terrace, Praça D. Pedro IV 96/101.

Be aware of pickpockets

Locals appreciate this cafe/restaurant just as much as tourists. The waiters are not always very nice. Being a tourist, be aware of pickpockets: while enjoying a delicious cálice de vinho do Porto (a glass of Port Wine), somebody tried to steel my friend’s bag from under her chair. Happily a friendly waiter warned us just in time! Be aware when you visit touristical attractions and terraces.

Nearby you can taste a Ginjinha, a liqueur made of a cherry-like berry, a typical Lisbon spirit.

Kisbon Praca da Figueria view from terrace Suica

From cafe/restaurant Pastelaria Suica ‘s terrace at the back a view of the square Praça da Figueira (English: Square of the Fig Tree) and the São Jorge Castle.

Lisbon Suica Pastelaria street performance living statue

Street performances (‘living statue’), newspaper vendors, street traders (offering cheap watches or ‘jewellery’), lottery ticket sellers, ‘psssst drugs’ sellers and begging hands……….also some lovely shops, like the unique hatmakers shop Chapelaria Azevedo Rua (opened in 1886)

And, of course, in wintertime, the unmistakeable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas)

Lisbon Rossio lottery ticket sellers

Lisbon Rossio lottery ticket seller 

Breathtaking views Lisbon: Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Cacilhas, short ferry trip & great Portuguese food

Don’t miss the opportunity to visit  the south bank of the river Tagus: views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing! Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus: Cacilhas,  a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : cheap)

Riverfront terrace restaurant Ponto Final’, Cacilhas, amazing view downtown Lisbon. September 2017

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacihas and vice versa

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Planning a trip to Lisbon? 

Check the availability calender: my 100 m2 authentic apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovely patio in the historical part of Lisbon (Dutch owner)

Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.

restaurante Ponto FInal view downtown Lisbon

Restaurant Ponto Final’s terrace at lunchtime in June

Reasonable prices

You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.

€20/25 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague

We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.

Bill for 3 persons 58.50 euro.

Lisbon Ponto Final Restaurant Sophie en Jurre 2015 2

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier

Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.

Restaurante Ponto Final uitzicht brug

View 25 April Bridge

It can be rather windy along the river Tagus, so don’t forget a sweater in case you like to have dinner here. Or, order a bottle of wine and a starter, enjoy it outside for at least a glass, then move inside for the main dish.

Restaurant Ponto Final Cacilhas Lisbon amazing view

A warm summer evening while the sun is fading….whow!

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect romantic location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, splendid view old town Lisbon

In case ‘Ponto Final’ is closed, the neighbor restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’Portuguese and international cuisine, is also a great place to enjoy your lunch or dinner!  🙂

Cacilhas Lisbon view Restaurant Atira-te-ao-rio’ and Cristo Rei statue

Cacilhas and the famous Cristo Rei statue

The elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue  (1 euro returnticket) is situated quite close to restaurant Ponto Final .

Svetlana & Sergy from Prague

Stunning views! Close to the elevator.

Several possibilites how to travel to the Cristo Rei Monument

Ferry-Lisbon Cacilhas

Ferry timetable

From Lisbon, Cais do Sodré ( Lisbon’s major bus, metro & trainstation) to Cacilhas, the other side of the river Tagus and vice versa

Ponto Final Lissabon Ans

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon in wintertime. Picture: Loek Polack

During winter season in Lisbon this place is also worth a visit 🙂 !  But it can be rather cold and very windy!

Wintertime Sunset video.

Cristo Rei Statue, Cacilhas, Lisbon

The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Yellyfish. Picture Svetlana Borodina

Restaurant Ponto Final, Cacilhas Cais Ginjal 72, Cacilhas , Almada,

Phone: (00351) 212 732 108. Mail:  pontofinalrest@gmail.comClosed: Tuesday and December 21st till January 21st.       Facebook

Cascais: famous beach vacation spot, easily reached from Lisbon & House of Wonders

Cascais is a famous & chic vacation spot in Portugal by the Atlantic Ocean, quite close to Lisbon (about 25 km; 30 minutes by train, 15-20 minutes by car). Great beaches, and a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available.

Center of Cascais in summertime

Cascais is a pleasant mix of history, tourism and local life. Once a small fishing village, nowadays packed with elegant boutiques, luxury hotels and restaurants. But still many small colourful fishing boats are bobbing up and down in the water in front of the village’s sea front. Fresh fish every day! 🙂

Fishing boats in the bay of Cascais, Portugal: Praia dos Pescadores

Cascais is situated on the north side of the mouth of the River Tejo which flows through the Portuguese capital, Lisbon. Cascais’ popularity dates from 1870, when King Luís I decided to convert the 17th century Citadela here into his summer residence.

Cascais, very popular place for tourists: Rua Direita

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists!  What a lovely design, you feel like you’re walking  on waves like Jesus did  😉 

Cascais is a popular vacation spot for both Portuguese and foreign visitors, with a small city center. The shops are rich and varied.

Terrace restaurant, cafe & bar ‘O Poéta’ Cascais

Agressive waiters on this square try to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Football lovers : huge screens are strategically placed outside and inside the restaurants.

Vegetarian restaurant House of Wonders in Cascais

My favorite restaurant (and roofterrace) in Cascais is House of Wonders, delicious vegetarian food , Largo da Misericordia  

Cascais beach & a lazy Sunday afternoon in September

There’s much more to find in Cascais and the Estoril coast, like a vibrant nightlife and a rich cultural life.

Cascais in September

There’s free bike-rental for tourists, and the nearby (5 km, easily accessible by bus or by train) popular Guincho beach is one of the best windsurfing and kitesurfing beaches in Europe.

YouTube movie Graham goes Guincho

Cascais: Museum Conde Castro Guimarães

This Municipal Museum is near by the sea and it keeps a very original architecture because its aim is to promote art. The palace is from 19th century and it was property of Manuel Castro Guimarães (a Portuguese Count from Cascais). MORE

How to get there from Lisbon?

Lisbon, train to Cascais

Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon by train: ‘Linha de Cascais’ (name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) from Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, ferry and trainstation. Return ticket: cheap.

Short term rentals in Lisbon: my 100 m2 authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in Mouraria (short term rentals):

Cascais & one of the small beaches

More: Visit Cascais 

Lisbon tourist guide Josephine: Mouraria, narrow Moorish streets & drinking Ginja

Josephine Lucassen is a professional guide, licensed by the city of Lisbon. She loves it to organise private walking tours for a group of tourists in this old and wonderful city!

Mouraria, Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão & Josephine Lucassen, guide

Example: a walking tour through the oldest parts of Lisbon, the popular districts of Alfama and Mouraria, the ancient areas that have survived the earthquake of 1755.

The many winding alleys still show the traces of the Moorish domination (from 711-1108). It is said that Fado music was born in Mouraria around 1820.

São Cristóvão (St. Christopher’s) Church in Mouraria Lisbon

Walk in historic Mouraria area March 18 & NV Lissabon members

My authentic apartment  is for rent in this area: 3 bedrooms and a lovely quiet patio (30 m2) (Dutch owner)

Mouraria Lisbon: stairs to Rua de São Cristóvão

The best way to start this walk is from Rua da Madalena and then climb the stairs Escadinhas de São Cristóvão.

Mouraria Lisbon: Rua de São Cristóvão in wintertime

Josephine: “I was born in Holland in a small village in Drente. After some travel jobs (f.e. Hotelplan) I prefered to live in Portugal. I’m happily married to a sympathetic Portuguese man, Jorge. Together we have 2 children. My curiosity and also the beauty of Portugal made me decide to study at the University of Lisbon. Now I am a professional,  licenced tourist guide with a lot of experience and a passion for history”.

Artisanat Portugais vintage & curiosites

‘A Loja’: Artisanat Portugais, vintage & Curiosités, Rua de São Cristóvão 3

Josephine: “On the corner of this street there’s a nice shop for tourists with typical Portuguese pottery and much more. We continue our walk in the small alleys of the Mouraria area and then we enjoy a drink in one of the pubs: the famous Portuguese liqueur Ginja (or Ginjinha), a must when you visit Lisbon!”

A sua saúde! (cheers!) Josephine in Mouraria Lisbon, area with lots of old bars and narrow streets.

Ginjinha, or simply Ginja, is a liqueur made of a cherry-like berry called (not surprisingly) Ginja. The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky. It is a favourite liqueur of many Portuguese. You can order a Ginja for little money, with or without a cherry in it.

Mouraria Lisbon: historical area with tiny steets and small bars

Fado

Josephine: “Now we walk to Rua do Capelão, to visit the house of the first fadista, Maria Severa. Maria died very young after a passionate liaison with a nobleman in 1846. Also born in Mouraria: Mariza. Amália Rodrigues, ‘queen of Fado’ was born nearby. Fado house Maria da Mouraria

Mouraria, Lisbon, a hidden place: beautiful very old tiles (azulejos)

Portugal is famous for its decorative tiles (azulejos). In Mouraria there’s a hidden place where you find beautiful tiles representing biblical- and scenes of Portugal’s rich history and culture. Azulejos are found on the interior and exterior of churches, palaces and ordinary houses.

Square Martim Moniz February 2013: Kiosk ‘A Preta’:  João (Johnny)

Josephine: “Then we finish our trip enjoying a drink in the sun at square Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and food kiosks. This is where the historic Mouraria neighborhood starts, a multicultural area. The food here is also very good.

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: Kiosk ‘A Preta’: guide Josephine & ???

This man, for both of us completely unknown, asked me to make a picture of him together with this beautiful lady  🙂

Starting point legendary tram 28

This square Martim Moniz is also the starting point for the legendary tram 28, a ‘must- do’ Lisbon attraction.

Alfama, historical area in Lisbon: Escadinhas Santo Estêvão

Private city walking tours

Josephine: “For some years I organize private walking tours for groups. Many tourists miss the hidden gems of Lisbon, simply because they did not know about them!

Lisbon river Tagus viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Catarina or Adamastor

Josephine: “Another idea for a 4-hour walking tour is a start near the river Tagus: Cais do Sodré, famous fish market Mercado do Ribeiro, cute and famous little tram to the top of the Bica area, river Tagus viewpoint Santa Catarina, bohemien neighborhood Bairro Alto, along Sao Bento palace, park in Principe Real with one of the oldest cedar trees in Lisbon. Finally Rossio, a wonderful square with historical buildings and of course: liqueur Ginja!

Tourist attraction Lisbon: sculpture Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl more than 75 years after his dead….

Tailored Tours

“How about a tour tailored to your specific needs? A walking full day tour combined with old trams and funiculars would be a perfect idea”.

Price: from € 15, 00 per person (4 hours) Full day tour € 25 pp.  Minimum 4 people (max. 10).

Mail josephinelucassen@yahoo.com or call: 00351 966 361 983 . Facebook

“My favorite place in Lisbon? Pffffffff, not easy, one of them is river viewpoint Portas do Sol, especially by night…..amazing!”

Tagus river viewpoint (Miradouro) Portas do Sol, Alfama Lisbon

Fully packed Tram 28 (2018) Lisbon, RED or GREEN TRAM: best stops & attractions

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself! It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol, a famous viewpoint & tourist attractionbackground Museum of Decorative Arts

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care!

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz starting point tram 28 long lines

Starting point tram 28: square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased (2015), which means that tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
 –
The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is much more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
 –
Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
 –
ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
FARE: 9 euro, children half price (4-10 years),  starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28 (The fare for a day is 9 Euro, half of the fare of the longer RED tram tour).

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28: square Praça Martim Moniz , nowadays a very nice place to enjoy a light meal in the sun with a lot of kiosks and terraces.

3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio (30 m2), short term rentals

10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 my there’s my 3 bedroom (100 m2) apartment (short term rental) in historical area  Mouraria with a 30m2 and very quiet sunny patio.

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Historic square ‘Largo do Carmo’ Lisbon: gothic ruins, Eurovision Song Contest 1974 & bloodless military coup

Wonderful Largo do Carmo  is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon!  Beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!

Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017

This picturesque square is very popular, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

Lisbon Largo do Carmo1

Largo do Carmo, springtime 2014

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio,

10 minutes walk from this wonderful square

Lisbon square Largo do Carmo kiosk 2

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo wikipedia jacarandas

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Largo do Carmo Military Police Station

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution.

On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

25-abril Carnation Revolution 1974 Lisbon

Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974

1974: The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) &  Eurovision Song Contest

The Carnation Revolution was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup.

Largo do Carmo Lisbon & entrance Carmen Convent

Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.

More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).
 –
Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa2
Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755
Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno Álvares Pereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died. More information..
 –
Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa3
Largo do Carmo  Lisbon: amazing view over Lisbon
The famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa video), Rua do Santa Gusta, built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high), can bring you to the Carmo Square.  
 –
Beautiful city view of Lisbon : Santa Justa Lift and Carmo Convent
From the roof terrace of Pollux, a huge warehouse, Rua dos Fanqueiros 276. There’s a pleasant roof terrace & bar/cafe : LESS

Historic square Intendente Lisbon: Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ & lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Largo Intendente Lisbon September 2018

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..