Category: Sightseeing

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Lovely Portuguese shop at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’. Traditional Portuguese, very warm service 🙂

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’, at fleamarket Lisbon

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon, November 2019

People from all over the world visiting Lisbon, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’, 2019

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

 ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ & one of the 2 very friendly owners

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  😉  Many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ fleamarket Lisbon

The Portuguese adore codfish (bacalhau) and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

 ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon 2023

There’s a very long history with Portugal & codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. More…….

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon 2023

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…more: WikiPedia

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon

YouTube – The legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

‘‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’’ Lisbon & sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

My favorite 🙂  crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, no. 112

Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

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Artist/designer Alberto Gourgel Lisbon: unique pieces, atelier & shop

Close to tourist attraction fleamarket Feira da Ladra in Lisbon there’s the studio of artist/designer Alberto Gourgel.

Where? Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

January 2023

Designer Alberto Gourgel’s atelier in Lisbon

January 2023: atelier Alberto Gourgel in Lisbon & Fernanda Vasconselos

Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975. ” I studied in a boarding school in Angola, but due to economical problems my brother and I moved to Lisbon in 1983. Being a kid, I already had a lot of creative ideas”.

Feira da Ladra Flea Market Lisbon Alberto Gourgel designer

2008: Market ‘A Feira da Ladra‘  (Lisbon’s famous flea market)

Original Portuguese magazines

Alberto Gourgel & vintage suitcases decorated with original vintage Portuguese magazines.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

You can find Alberto and his beautiful creations in his atelier/shop quite near the market:

Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

Feira da Ladra Alberto Gourgel old fashioned suitcases

Legendary market in Lisbon: Feira da Ladra

Alberto ( in 2008): ”The last years, I’m in to ‘vintage’, and I’m fascinated with the beautiful 20th Century Portuguese ‘vogue’ magazines. It’s not easy finding them, sometimes I’m lucky in a small museum or in very old bookshops”.

Feira da Ladra Lisbon Alberto Gourgel6

Alberto Gourgel

Alberto: “The vernis is made by hand, an ancient procedure. It takes a lot of time because it’s very important to keep the original colors”. Besides Alberto decorates posters, walls, doors and room separators.

Visit Alberto’s weblog

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Alberto Gourgel

Tourists from all over the world

Flea market “Feira da Ladra”  (Campo de Santa Clara) is visited by lots of tourists from all over the world. The market in Alfama dates back around 800 years, though it may have been named ‘Feira da Ladra’ as late as the 17th century.

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2009: Alberto Gourgel , Feira da Ladra Lisbon

‘Biombo’ ( a room separator) created by Alberto Gourgel.  Prices from 75- 125 euro.

 famous market Feira da Ladra

Alberto Gourgel lamp bedroom Mouraria

A creation of Alberto Gourgel in my house in Lisbon

Alberto’s work is also for sale in some antique shops in Lisbon and in loja (shop) ‘A Vida Portuguesa’. Owner is Catarina Portas. She has a passion for Portuguese identity, and everyday Catarina brings objects of the past back to life to inhabit modern-day homes.

Lisbon A Vida Portuguesa Alberto Gourgel

Shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’,

Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado Lisbon

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, January 2019

Alberto Gourgel & friend Margaretha de Vrieze

March 2021: unique lamp in my apartment in area Graça Lisbon

Alberto Gourgel Atelier / vintage shop
 Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon       Facebook

algourgel@gmail.com – (00351) 962480996

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Lisbon’s unique Aqueduct (from 1731, 65 m tall) & aqueduct serial killer Alves

Really worth a visit!

Water was in scarce supply even for Lisbon’s earliest inhabitants. In 1731 Portugal’s King João V (John V) decided to build an aqueduct (Aqueduto das Águas Livres, ‘free waters’). The project was paid by a special sales tax on beef, olive oil, wine and other products.

Aqueduct Lisbon (Aqueduto das Águas Livres), October 2022

Magnificent construction & misunderstandings

The magnificent construction caused constant misunderstandings between the royal power, engineers, architects and municipal institutions; abusive clerical interference found its way into the fray.

Aqueduct Lisbon (Aqueduto das Águas Livres, October 2022

Water Museum

Today, what the Portuguese think of as the Lisbon Aqueduct is that gigantic set or arches spanning the Alcântara valley, ending at the Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras Reservoir (Water Museum) of Amoreiras..

View from the Aqueduct Lisbon, October 2022

The main course of the aqueduct covers 18 km, but the whole network of canals extends through nearly 58 km. Its source is known as Águas Livres and is located in Caneças.

Aqueduct Lisbon (Aqueduto das Águas Livres, October 2022

important sources of water supply

The aqueduct consist of a complex series of underground galleries, arches and skylights linked to the visible principal body, known as the General Aqueduct. These are scattered all over the city, giving rise to numerous fonts which, in times gone by, were important sources of water supply for the city.

Entrance Water Museum Lisbon, Calçada da Quintinha, 6, Lisboa

Concluded in 1834 (although it began to supply water to Lisbon in 1748), displays visible Gothic influences in a period dominated by the Baroque style.

More information about architects and engineers

Water Museum (Mãe d’Água), Lisbon

Video Museu da Água  YouTube

After the earthquake of 1755, architect Custódio Vieira was granted pardon for the profligacy for which he had been accused owing to the amount of iron he used to strengthen the arch’s structure, for, despite being located on a seismic faultline, it had resisted the quake.

Water Museum (Mãe d’Água) Lisbon, October 2022

Diogo Alves, the ‘Aqueduct serial killer’

The public walkway along the interior gallery, named Arches Walk, which once offered a wonderful panoramic view to pedestrians, has been closed since 1844 due to the large number of suicides and murders, including those committed by the famous bandit Diogo Alves , the ‘Aqueduct serial killer’.

Aqueduct Lisbon. Picture:  Paulo Juntas (Wikipedia), Aqueduct arches (65 m tall) over the Alcântara valley.

‘ Water Museum‘, Calçada da Quintinha, 6, Lisboa, in charge of the aqueduct, organizes guided visits and tours.

Opening Hours | Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5:30 pm (closed for lunch from 12:30 to 1:30 pm). More: Wikipedia     Facebook 
Useful information

October 1st 2022: Aqueduct Lisbon & members of NV Lissabon

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Breathtaking views Lisbon: Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & short ferry trip river Tagus

The south bank of the river Tagus is my favorite place in Lisbon: views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing!

Riverfront terrace restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, Cacilhas, amazing view downtown Lisbon. September 2017

Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus: Cacilhas,  a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : cheap)

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacihas and vice versa

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Edith Bering, February 16, 2022

Reasonable prices

You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.

Restaurant Ponto Final Lisbon, September 2019

Great location

€25/30 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague

We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.

Bill for 3 persons  € 58.50.

Lisbon Ponto Final Restaurant Sophie en Jurre 2015 2

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier

Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.

Great lunch in Restaurant Ponto Final, Lisbon together with Edith Bering and Anita van Zadelhoff, February 16, 2022

Romantic location

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, splendid view old town Lisbon

In caserestaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is closed, the neighbor restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, Portuguese and international cuisine, is also a great place to enjoy your lunch or dinner!  🙂

Cacilhas Lisbon view Restaurant Atira-te-ao-rio’ and Cristo Rei statue

Cacilhas and the famous Cristo Rei statue

The elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue (free) is situated quite close to restaurant Ponto Final .

Svetlana & Sergy from Prague

Stunning views! Close to the elevator.

Several possibilites how to travel to the Cristo Rei Monument

Ferry-Lisbon Cacilhas

Ferry from Cais do Sodre , Lisbon to Cacilhas, the other side of the river Tagus

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacilhas and vice versa

During winter season in Lisbon this place is also worth a visit 🙂 !  But it can be rather cold and very windy!

Wintertime Sunset video.

Cristo Rei Statue, Cacilhas, Lisbon

The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.

Restaurant Ponto Final February 16, 2022 : Anita van Zadelhoff, lovely dog Nelson 😉 and Edith Bering

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Lunch July 3, 2021, friend Margriet de Vrieze & delicious pataniscos de bacalhau (salt codfish cakes, recipe in English) 🙂

Restaurant Ponto Final, Cacilhas Cais Ginjal 72, Cacilhas / Almada,

Phone: (00351)  936 869 031 (WhatsApp also). Mail:  pontofinalrest@gmail.com.       Facebook

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Cascais: famous vacation spot, easily reached from Lisbon & favorite restaurants

Cascais is a famous & chic vacation spot in Portugal by the Atlantic Ocean, quite close to Lisbon (about 25 km; 30 minutes by train, 15-20 minutes by car).

Center of Cascais in summertime

Cascais is a pleasant mix of history, tourism and local life. Once a small fishing village, nowadays packed with elegant boutiques, luxury hotels and restaurants. But still many small colourful fishing boats are bobbing up and down in the water in front of the village’s sea front. Fresh fish every day! 🙂

Fishing boats in the bay of Cascais, Portugal: Praia dos Pescadores

Cascais is situated on the north side of the mouth of the River Tejo which flows through the Portuguese capital, Lisbon. Cascais’ popularity dates from 1870, when King Luís I decided to convert the 17th century Citadela here into his summer residence.

Cascais, very popular place for tourists: Rua Direita , 2016 ( nowadays this street is called Rua Frederico Arouca)

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists!  What a lovely design, you feel like you’re walking  on waves like Jesus did 😉  😉 

Terrace restaurant, cafe & bar ‘O Poéta’ Cascais

Restaurants Cascais center & aggressive waiters

On this square aggressive waiters try to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Football lovers : huge screens are strategically placed outside and inside the restaurants.

Vegetarian restaurant House of Wonders in Cascais: great, quiet location 🙂

Easy to reach from the trainstation, 5 minutes walk: Largo da Misericordia 53, Cascais
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Vega Restaurant House of Wonders Cascais:  Sofia, Pasang, Sandeep & Bipek, November 2019

My favorite vegan restaurant and roofterrace in Cascais is House of Wonders, delicious vegetarian food

Lovely new terrace Vega Restaurant & cafe House of Wonders Cascais

July 2019

Facebook House of Wonders Cascais

December 2019

Restaurant Maritimo, Cascais & Ben Weijers, owner of holiday paradise Quinta do Corvo in Colares (near Sintra)

In case you prefer fresh fish or meat, go to nearby restaurant Maritimo

Set under 2 centuries-old trees there’s tiny restaurant Maritimo ‘s terrace where you can enjoy fresh fish and salads. Instagram

Restaurant Maritimo Cascais & delicious prawns with garlic: 15 euro.

Instagram

The big square next to the restaurant is an ideal place to let the kids play. Portuguese family restaurant Maritimo (closed on Sunday).

Largo Cidade de Vitória 37, Cascais

Cascais in September

There’s free bike-rental for tourists, and the nearby (5 km, easily accessible by bus or by train) popular Guincho beach is one of the best windsurfing and kitesurfing beaches in Europe.

YouTube movie Graham goes Guincho

Cascais: Museum Conde Castro Guimarães

This Municipal Museum is near by the sea and it keeps a very original architecture because its aim is to promote art. The palace is from 19th century and it was property of Manuel Castro Guimarães (a Portuguese Count from Cascais). MORE

How to get there from Lisbon?

Lisbon, train to Cascais

Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon by train: ‘Linha de Cascais’ (name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) from Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, ferry and trainstation.

Return ticket: cheap.

Cascais & wonderful pavement, November 2019

Great beaches, and a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available.

More: Visit Cascais 

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Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ Lisbon, historic square Intendente & lovely loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, August 2020. Square Largo do Intendente 59

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon 2015: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine, 2015

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria Lisbon. Metro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Square Intendente 2018

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

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Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’ Lisbon: delicious vegan plates & vibrant area

A little bit tucked away in Lisbon’s trendy Intendente area there’s   cafe/restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’, Rua dos Anjos 5 B and I love it! Not only the delicious food, but also the super friendly staff make this place really enjoyable.

Marie-Odile Coudert Antonelli & partner Gary Nairn, August 2020. Owners of nearby Bar/bistro Josephine

Cafe/Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’Lisbon & petiscos (Portuguese tapas)

Delicious petiscos ! (Portuguese tapas): peixinhos da horta (lit. little fishes from the garden)  € 4.50, sweet potato chips € 5.50.

Vibrant Lisbon area Intendente

Nowadays there’s a great atmosphere in this part of Lisbon: Intendente is a vibrant city area, with a multicultural mix of young and old, and a cool arts scene attract young people.

Restaurant/café  ‘O Gambuzino’  Lisbon Intendente area, September 2020

This restaurant serves healthy and homemade food. Everything is prepared fresh. Relaxed atmosphere with good service in an alternative spot of Lisbon.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende‘ (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’) Lisbon Intendente area

Our lunch: petiscos, salade with goat cheese, pasta bolognese.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende in 2014 (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’ ) Lisbon

Intendente area & lunch with Erika Reusens

Delicious vegan dish

The space looks fantastic with a cosy vintage decoration. Vegetables and fruits are from local producers. All snacks and dishes are homemade.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende ‘ (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’ ) & dinner with Felipe and Rob, 2015

Largo Intendente & historical area Mouraria

This restaurant is located next to the beautiful square Largo Intendente, in the historical area Mouraria. For several years a place to avoid, in recent years this area is grown into a trendy place with many new cafe’s, bars and restaurants.

Healthy & delicious!

Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’ , Rua dos Anjoa 5 B, Intendente area, Lisbon

Facebook              Metro: Intendente

Terrace Restaurant ‘Sabor K Intende’ Lisbon, 2014

Nearby square Intendente Lisbon; Joana Vasconcelos designed the small ‘park’ with ‘ love seats’

Much more about area Intendente….

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Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 🙁

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 .

Facebook 

YouTube:  Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( € 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares  (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria’ 🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau:  lunch (almoço) has a fixed price of 35 € per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere 🙂
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb) (!)
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (€ 25 ).  🙂
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

Facebook

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 
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Entrance bakery Doce Mila, area Mouraria Lisbon

Great place for breakfast!

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
Beco dos Cavaleiros 15, Mouraria Lisbon
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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​The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.”  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

YouTube: live fado music around midnight in this small bar
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Tiny Ginja Bar ‘Amigas da Severa‘ & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

€ 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes € 5,50 –  € 7,50. Rice € 1.50. Bottle of water € 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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Tram 28 Lisbon Martim Moniz: long lines, best stops & pickpockets

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00-18:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol

Famous viewpoint & tourist attraction,  on the background Museum of Decorative Arts, really worth a visit!

Starting point tram 28, 2018

Square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Pickpockets, take care!

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care! Leave your bag in the hotel/apartment, just take some money with you in your pocket !

Open air elevator square Martim Moniz near starting point tram 28

Open air elevator connecting Martim Moniz square to the streets around St George Castle

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased since a few years, which means tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
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GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
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Starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28, square Praça Martim Moniz 

All stops vintage tram 28

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Tram 28 , Lisbon

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Noisy Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon: polution & eco-friendly silent Tuk Tours

The last few years Tuk-Tuk cars are gaining more popularity among tourists in Lisbon. You see them everywhere in the city: cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly !  🙁  🙁

Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria Lisbon & an eco-friendly Tuk Tuk

Mouraria is a very old neighborhoud with narrow streets where big tourist buses cannot get through.

UPDATE 2018: Electric charging points will soon be installed in Lisbon and diesel tuk tuks will be banned

🙂  🙂

YouTube Movie Tuk Tuk Tour Lisbon

November 2018: tourist guide Josephine & small problem with a Tuk Tuk car

‘Do you like to Tuk-Tuk with me’ ? Voulez-vous Tuk-Tuk avec moi? 😉  I saw a car with a led display using this text in several languages. These little Tuk Tuk vehicles are most ideal for short trips and sightseeing and capable to drive through the small streets in the ancient historical neighborhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria.

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Eco Tours Martim Moniz may 14 1

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: lots of tourists are waiting for legendary electric tram 28

Square Martim Moniz : starting point of the legendary old tram 28

Nowadays several owners of Tuk-Tuk cars are trying to persuade you to take a tour (from 45 – 60 euro for one hour), but a ride with ‘elétrico’ tram 28 will also bring you to most tourist attractions of Lisbon….and much cheaper (around 4 euro pp).

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Tuk-Tuk cars, origin & polution

The Tuk-Tuk cars often run on diesel and some very old ones are imported from Asia. Auto rickshaws of Southeast Asia started from the knockdown production of the Daihatsu Midget which had been introduced in 1957. There are too many of them in Lisbon  🙁  🙁

Tuk Tuk Lisboa Baixa sept 14

Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon downtown city center & elegant shopping area Rua Garrett

Young enthusiastic drivers & Tuk-Tuk cars

One of the advantages of the tuk-tuk cars in Lisbon is the possibility making trips with young and enthusiastic people, who speak several languages. Most of them are especially trained to talk about the historic sites of Lisbon.

Eco friendly Tul Tours Lisbon f1 2

Eco friendly Tuk car in Lisbon, historic area Alfama

Eco (and silent!) Tuk Tours Lisbon

I have no commercial interest but maybe this article helps to make Lisbon cleaner!  😉 😉

Eco Tuk Tours Lisbon narrow streets old town Lisbon 3

Eco friendly Tuk Tour old town Lisbon: narrow streets of Alfama