Wonderful square ‘Largo do Carmo’ Lisbon: gothic ruins, Eurovision Song Contest 1974 & 25 April bloodless military coup

Wonderful Largo do Carmo  is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon: beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!

Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

Lisbon Largo do Carmo1

Largo do Carmo, springtime 2014

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio,

10 minutes walk from this wonderful square

Lisbon square Largo do Carmo kiosk 2

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo wikipedia jacarandas

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Largo do Carmo Military Police Station

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  theCarnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

25-abril Carnation Revolution 1974 Lisbon

Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos)

was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.

More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum 1

Largo do Carmo Lisbon
Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa2
Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755
Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno Álvares Pereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died.
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa3
 Largo do Carmo Lisbon: amazing view over Lisbon
 How to get there? How to avoid ticket queues !
The famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa video), Rua do Santa Gusta, built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high), can bring you to the Carmo Square.  
As an alternative to the elevator (and to avoid the ticket office queues  – which can be horrendous) – I prefer to walk via Rua Garrett, and turn right into Calçada do Sacramento, it’s not too steep!
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Santa Justa lift view from roof terrace warehouse Pollux
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Beautiful city view of Lisbon and Santa Justa Lift
From the roof terrace of Pollux, a huge warehouse, Rua dos Fanqueiros 276. There’s a pleasant roof terrace & bar/cafe.

Breathtaking views Lisbon & 25 April Bridge: Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Cacilhas, short ferry trip & great Portuguese food

When you visit Lisbon , don’t miss the opportunity to visit Cacilhas, the south bank of the river Tagus (Tejo). The views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing! Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus, a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : ca. 4 euro).

Riverfront terrace restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, Cacilhas, amazing view downtown Lisbon. September 2017

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacihas and vice versa

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.

restaurante Ponto FInal view downtown Lisbon

Restaurant Ponto Final’s terrace at lunchtime in June

Reasonable prices

You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.

€20/25 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague

We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.

Bill for 3 persons 58.50 euro.

Lisbon Ponto Final Restaurant Sophie en Jurre 2015 2

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier

Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.

Restaurante Ponto Final uitzicht brug

View 25 April Bridge

It can be rather windy along the river Tagus, so don’t forget a sweater in case you like to have dinner here. Or, order a bottle of wine and a starter, enjoy it outside for at least a glass, then move inside for the main dish.

Restaurant Ponto Final Cacilhas Lisbon amazing view

A warm summer evening while the sun is fading….whow!

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect romantic location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, great view old town Lisbon  🙂

The nearby restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’Portuguese, Brasilian and international cuisine, is also a great place to enjoy your lunch or dinner!

Cacilhas Lisbon view Restaurant Atira-te-ao-rio’ and Cristo Rei statue

Cacilhas and the famous Cristo Rei statue

The elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue  (1 euro returnticket) is situated quite close to restaurant Ponto Final .

Svetlana & Sergy from Prague

Stunning views! Close to the elevator.

Several possibilites how to travel to the Cristo Rei Monument

Ferry-Lisbon Cacilhas

Ferry timetable

From Lisbon, Cais do Sodré ( Lisbon’s major bus, metro & trainstation) to Cacilhas, the other side of the river Tagus and vice versa

Ponto Final Lissabon Ans

During winter season in Lisbon this place is also worth a visit! But it can be rather cold and windy. (sunset video). Picture: Loek Polack

Planning a trip to Lisbon? short term rentals:

My 100 m2 Authentic holiday apartment with 3 bedrooms and sunny patio in the historical part of Lisbon

Cristo Rei Statue, Cacilhas Lisbon

The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Yellyfish. Picture Svetlana Borodina

Restaurant Ponto Final, Cacilhas Cais Ginjal 72, Cacilhas , Almada,

Phone: (00351) 212 732 108. Mail:  pontofinalrest@gmail.comClosed: Tuesday and December 21st till January 21st.

Fully packed Tram 28 (2017) Lisbon & alternative RED or GREEN TRAM tour: best stops, cheap way to visit tourist attractions

If you want to get a good impression of the historical city of Lisbon, take this typical yellow little trolley, ‘eléctrico 28’. This legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines nowadays (2017)!

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol, a famous viewpoint & tourist attractionbackground Museum of Decorative Arts

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care!

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz starting point tram 28 long lines

Starting point tram 28, April 2016: square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased (2015), which means that tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is much more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
FARE: 9 euro, children half price (4-10 years),  starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28 (The fare for a day is 9 Euro, half of the fare of the longer RED tram tour).

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28: square Praça Martim Moniz , nowadays a very nice place to enjoy a light meal in the sun with a lot of kiosks and terraces.

3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio (30 m2), short term rentals

10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 my there’s my 3 bedroom (100 m2) apartment (short term rental) in historical area  Mouraria with a 30m2 and very quiet sunny patio.

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Trendy square Intendente Lisbon: Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine’, former grandeur & a lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit wonderful Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria, formerly a place of prostitution and drugs. Nowadays this place is very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Largo do Indendente Mouraria Lisbon winter 2014 Ans ansd Loek

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon, in February

Dutch friends Ans de Graaf en Loek Polack.

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Even in wintertime it can be good weather in Lisbon with daytime temperatures that average over 15°C .

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

The place to be for all authentic & lovely Portuguese items, quite expensive

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, square Intendente Lisbon

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Lisbon Largo Intendente Shop 'A Vida Portuguesa' 2014

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon & famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. Although originally built as a private residence, it now belongs to the Viúva Lamego ceramic factory which displays its art inside. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East. One of the  Top Ten façades of Lisbon.

Facebook Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

 

Lovely Portuguese ceramics at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, symbols of Portugal & ‘love’ swallow

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owner makes me feel like buying a lot..  !  🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon ceramic shop Jan. 2017 & Loes Broere

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017

Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramic Bordalo Pinheiro black cat

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramic 3

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramics swallow

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramics hanging codfish

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics galinha

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Of course there’s a ‘good luck’ rooster in my 3-bedroom apartment with patio in Lisbon  😉  (short term rentals).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics sardines

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube (in historical area Alfama)

Lisbon Feira da Ladra shop Armazem Caldas tableware1

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00
Thursdays and Fridays: open from 11:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon Armazem das Caldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Restaurant/gallery ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais near Lisbon: lovely roof terrace, healthy food & Dutch owner Anna

The ‘House of Wonders’ is really worth a visit if you are in Portugal’s famous vacation spot Cascais. Looking for a healthy lunchtime snack or dinner this unique place is easy to find in the center of the former fishing village close to the beach. Easy to reach from Lisbon (ca. 30 min. by train)

Roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ in Cascais: excellent relaxing place!

The lovely roof terrace with comfortable cushions is situated on the top of the beautiful building. Even in wintertime when the weather is good you can sit here and enjoy the fabulous bayview and the sunset.

Harbour- and seaview from roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais

Anna De Bruin is from Dutch origin and owner of “House of Wonders” in Cascais. “I lived 20 years in Africa and South America, where I launched the 1st collection of recycled boat furniture in the Caribbean”.

Cafe Gallery ‘House of Wonders’ owner Anna Catharina de Bruin

Anna: ” I chose Portugal to live because this country is very human and very authentic. It’s a mix between Europe and Africa, where many people are connected to this continent and in spite of the crisis they are positive, like me”.

First floor cafe the “House of Wonders” Cascais, December 2012

You can enjoy a range of home cooked food from the cafe. It is not a vegetarian restaurant but there are good options available. The menu often offer home made soup, quiches, pies and very tasty salads.

Snack with presunto (traditional Portuguese ham)

The food is fantastic and also the very friendly staff! Prices are fair, like a quiche and salad (€ 7.50), vegetable soup (€ 3.50) and a glass of good Portuguese white wine (€3.75).

First floor cafe & art gallery the “House of Wonders” Cascais

The first floor cafe is also an art gallery and there are beautiful African artifacts for sale, mainly handmade. I met a nice lady from Boston: Lynn Kenney (picture). If you are traveling alone the “House of Wonders’ is a cozy place to meet other people from around the world.

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais: Bernardo and Anna

Anna: “This project was my dream! I opened the “House of Wonders” in Cascais around 3 years ago – a beautiful space, very cozy. A unique concept that features furniture and decorative pieces in natural wood, made from old dhowns – abandoned boats from the beaches of the Swahili coast – Kenya, Tanzania and Mozambique.

Ground floor “House of Wonders” Cascais: beautiful recycled boat furniture from Africa

Cascais is easy to reach by train from Lisbon’s station Cais do Sodré (around 30 minutes). More about Cascais

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais

Cafe Galeria House of Wonders Cascais: Largo da Misericordia  in the historic center of Cascais, Portugal. Phone (00351) 91 170 2428.

Facebook . Free WiFi.

House of Wonders Cascais roofterrace oct 13

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais October 2013

House of Wonders rooftop terrace Cascais January 2016

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais , January 2016

Village Underground Lisbon: great food in a retro dubble-decker bus beneath 25 April Bridge, street art, events, partys, creative community & Polly Robbins

How about a delicious dinner in a dubble-decker retro bus beneath the 25th April Bridge? A great experience, but Village Underground in Lisbon offers much more! It’s a coworking center for creative- and event industries located at the Santo Amaro station in Alcântara, next to the Carris vintage trams & buses Museum.

village-underground-lisbon-1

Village Underground Lisbon in summertime

Lisbon: the hippest place to be

For years, Lisbon was somewhat off the beaten track for young travellers, or millennials seeking a new home. The Portuguese capital crumbled romantically while London, Paris, Barcelona and more recently Berlin enjoyed the cultural status. Yet in the last 10 years the city has seen an explosion in culture, tourism and entrepreneurialism, and is now surpassing its European rivals as the hippest place to be!

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The Village Underground in Lisbon & Polly Robbins, November 2016

Who are you and how have you found yourself at Village Underground?

Polly Robbins: “I come from London. I love London, but the pace of life is crazy and I felt like spending some time in another European capital. Lisbon particularly attracted me because I’m interested in urban cultural development. I studied sociology, looking at how art movements develop in cities, and for the last 3 years I’ve been running a business in London that takes over empty spaces and makes them into venues for culture”.

village-underground-lisbon-dubble-decker-buses-and-containers-3

Village Underground Lisbon

Ex-pats & tourists in Lisbon

Polly Robbins: ‘I heard about Village Underground Lisbon from a contact who knows the London branch. So I contacted Mariana (Director VU), got some funding from the EU Erasmus Young Entrepreneurs scheme, and here I am. At Village Underground I am developing marketing and communications, specifically for the ex-pat and tourists in Lisbon. I’m also developing ways for the co-working community to share their skills and feel more part of a community”.

village-underground-lisbon-live-music

Village Underground Lisbon

So what is Village Underground?

Polly:” It’s a project that began in London in 2009 when a group of friends had a crazy idea to hoist to some decommissioned tube train carriages onto the roof of a building and create a co-working space in Shoreditch. Mariana Duarte Silva, who is the Director of Village Underground Lisbon, was working in London when she came across the space and took a desk to set up her own music agency. She fell in love with it and brought the concept back to Lisbon, where the doors opened in 2012″.

village-underground-lisbon-dubble-decker-bus

Village Underground Lisbon & one of the retro dubble-decker buses

Creative community

Polly: “Village Underground Lisboa sits at the end of the municipal tram yard, beneath the iconic Ponte 25 de Abril. It consists of 14 shipping containers which act as a co-working space for the creative industries. There are about 35 people working here, in web design, graphic design, video making, branding, theatre and music”.

village-underground-lisbon-dubble-decker-bus-december-16-2

Village Underground Lisbon & one of the dubble-decker retro buses, November 2016

Cafe/restaurant & events from January 2017

“There are 2 converted retro buses, one is a café, open to the public every lunchtime and for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. And in addition, there’s a warehouse space used for events and exhibitions, a recording studio, a large space outside used for events and a skate ramp.

There is a great range of events going on at Village Underground, from parties with electronic and live music, to markets, to exhibitions and performance. Starting January 2017 these will be hosted every Friday and Saturday”.

village-underground-lisbon-dinner-dubble-decker-bus-december-2nd-16

Village Underground Lisbon & delicious dinner in a dubble-decker retro bus 🙂

Tasty food & affordable prices

Our dinner: tapas; Peixe (fish): Moqueca de camarão com arroz selvagem (shrimp Moqueca with wild rice)Chili com carne com basmati de coentros (Cili con carne, basmati rice with coriander): wine , water, sobremesa (dessert). Bill: 77 euro (3 persons). A vegetarian dish is also available.

village-underground-lisbon-dinner-dubble-decker-bus-december-16-view-window

Village Underground Lisbon & a group of visitors

Why should people visit Village Underground?

Polly: “It’s a really interesting space to be in physically, particularly if you like to be surrounded by cool architecture, street art and disused trams and buses! The café serves incredibly tasty food and the team working there is lovely. The people who gravitate towards Village Underground are an amazing bunch – I’ve been warmly welcomed! They come from all walks of life and you don’t have to be chatting too long before you discover that they’re involved in all sorts of weird and wonderful projects”

Village Underground Lisbon delicious lunch January 2017

Village Underground Lisbon & delicious lunch in a dubble-decker retro bus

Muito obrigada! Great food & great service 🙂 🙂

Mafalda Rodrigues, Tania Pines & Mafalda Pais

Village Underground Lisbon delicious lunch January 2017 2

Village Underground Lisbon & delicious lunch in a dubble-decker retro bus

Vegetarian dish, sandwich with salmon, sweet potatoes, 2 glasses of wine, small bottle of water & coffee: 18 euro

 

Village Underground Lisbon

Both the interior and the terrace have free Wi-Fi. There is free parkingThe only entrance to the Cafeteria is the main gate of the Carris Museum, located at Rua Primeiro de Maio, 103.

Noisy stinking Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon: popular tourist attraction, eco-friendly silent Tuk Tours & historic areas with narrow streets

The last few years Tuk-Tuk cars are gaining more popularity among tourists in Lisbon. You see them everywhere in the city: cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly ! 🙁

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Eco Tuk Tours Mouraria Largo Maria da Severa Sept 14

Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria Lisbon & an eco-friendly (silent) Tuk Tours car

Narrow Streets

Mouraria is a very old neighborhoud with narrow streets where big tourist buses cannot get through. Here you can enjoy fado nights and traditional food, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria’, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista (fado singer): ‘Maria da Severa’ .

Apartment historic area Mouraria Lisbon & lovely quiet , private patio

My 3 bedroom apartment in this area with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals)

YouTube Movie Tuk Tuk Tour Lisbon

‘Do you like to Tuk-Tuk with me’ ? 😉 Voulez-vous Tuk-Tuk avec moi? 😉  I saw a car with a led display using this text in several languages. These little Tuk Tuk vehicles are most ideal for short trips and sightseeing. They are capable to drive through the small and sometimes winding streets in the ancient historical neighborhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria.

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Eco Tours Martim Moniz may 14 1

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: lots of tourists are waiting for legendary electric tram 28

Square Martim Moniz is the starting point of the legendary old tram 28

Nowadays several owners of Tuk-Tuk cars are trying to persuade you to take a tour (from 45 – 60 euro for one hour), but a ride with ‘elétrico’ tram 28 will also bring you to most tourist attractions of Lisbon….and much cheaper (around 4 euro pp).

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Tuk Tuk Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho sept 14

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon

This photo was taken at the door of a very small restaurant out of the tourist circle, in historic area Mouraria where you can enjoy a typical and delicious Portuguese meal for around 8 euros. Restaurant ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinh0 58.

Tuk-Tuk cars, origin & polution

The Tuk-Tuk cars often run on diesel and some very old ones are imported from Asia. Auto rickshaws of Southeast Asia started from the knockdown production of the Daihatsu Midget which had been introduced in 1957. There are too many of them in Lisbon  🙁  🙁

UPDATE April 2017:
The tuk-tuks in Lisbon will have to be electric starting next year, in 2018.

Tuk Tuk Lisboa Baixa sept 14

Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon downtown city center & elegant shopping area Rua Garrett

Nearby a popular tourist attraction: the iconic façade of the Café ‘A Brasileira’ with the figure of Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) at his usual table, Portugal’s famous writer and poet.

Young enthusiastic drivers & Tuk-Tuk cars

One of the advantages of the arrival of the tuk-tuk cars to Lisbon is the possibility for tourists making trips with young and enthusiastic people, who speak several languages. Most of them are especially trained to talk about the historic sites of Lisbon.

Eco friendly Tul Tours Lisbon f1 2

Eco friendly Tuk car in Lisbon, historic area Alfama

Eco (and silent!) Tuk Tours Lisbon (it also has a mode “à la carte”, which allows the rental of a vehicle indefinitely).

I have no commercial interest but maybe this article helps to make Lisbon cleaner!

http://www.ecotuktours.com/en/ (more info and reservations)
Example: old town Lisbon Tour, estimated time: max. 90 min.
Price per tour: €70/tuk car
Maximum lotation: up to 6 pax/Eco Tuk

Travessa da Pereira 16, Lisbon
+(351)914925450

Eco Tuk Tours Lisbon Facebook

Eco Tuk Tours Lisbon narrow streets old town Lisbon 3

Eco friendly Tuk Tour old town Lisbon: narrow streets of Alfama

A real taste of Lisbon: historical red tramcar tour ‘7 hills’ & the most picturesque neighborhoods of Lisbon

Although public transport (tram 28) is much cheaper, this historical red tramcar tour allows you to know the most picturesque neighborhoods of Lisbon in a friendly and comfortable way, while listening to the commentary available in several languages or melancholic melody of fado music.

Lisbon red tourist tram 7 hills Praca do Comercio

Praça do Comércio Lisbon

Tickets

Red tram tour, leaving from one of the most beautiful squares in the world: Praça do Comércio where you can buy a ticket. From around € 17 p.p. Child (4-9) around € 10

You will pass the narrow and steep streets of the city’s traditional quarters. You will see chatting people on doorsteps and feel the village atmosphere of Alfama and Mouraria and reveal a sharp contrast to the elegant, noble buildings of Chiado and Lapa. You will certainly fall in love with Lisbon and sooner or later you will come back……

Lisbon historical Red tram tour driver Paulo Dias starting point Praca do Comercio

Red tram driver Paulo Dias

HOP ON HOP OFF

“You can take advantage of the ‘Hop On Hop Off” system. This allows tourists to get off at each stop (20 min.), visit the surrounding area, and then get back on the tram or wait for the next one.

Tickets & prices

The ‘ 7 Colinas‘ (hills) route (about 1 1/2 hour, ) departs every 30 minutes, from 10:00-20:00 (from June-Sept), from 10:20-17:40 (Oct-May).

Lisbon historical red tram tour tourists

“The ‘Carristur’ company has faithfully restored the interior of the trams dating from the thirthies and fourties, preserving their charm and original character.

Lisbon church Mouraria

Little church in Mouraria. More about this old neighborhood, home of fado music…..

In this area there’s my 3 bedroom apartment with 3 bedrooms and a 30 m2 patio (short term rentals)

This ‘ 7 Colinas’ (hills) route goes through the oldest and most traditional districts, giving its passengers a real taste of the city. Mouraria, Alfama, Chiado, Sao Bento and Estrela are just some of the districts that can be seen in the tram.

Lisbon historical red tram tour Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Alfama. This street is close to the legendary Feira da Ladra (‘thieves market’) and the castle of São Jorge (Castle of Saint George)

Lisbon historical Red tram tour Pessoa statue girl

Chiado, Rua Garrett. Famous cafe ‘A Brasileira’ with the statue in bronze of the poet Fernando Pessoa, mobbed by lots of tourists, all day long! And of course you will pass the Bica funicular

Lisbon historical Red tram tour Rua de Sao Paulo Rua Boa Vista stairs

Rua Sao Paulo/Rua da Boa Vista

 

Lisbon Red tram historical tour tourists see other tourists

As a tourist you will see a lot of other tourists waiting for tram 28

TRAM 28 (eletrico) is very popular . The number of tourist has been increased (2015), which means that tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.

Lisbon Red tram tour sightseeing little streets Pastelaria

Cascais: famous vacation spot by the sea easily reached by train from Lisbon & restaurant ‘O Poéta’

Cascais is a famous vacation spot in Portugal by the sea quite close to Lisbon (about 25 km; 30 minutes by train, 15-20 minutes by car). Great beaches, and a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available.

Cascais: in the background the pink-coloured Restaurant bar ‘O Poéta’

Cascais (more pictures and wiki info) is a pleasant mix of history, tourism and local life. Once a small fishing village, nowadays a smart resort town, packed with elegant boutiques, luxury hotels and restaurants. But still many small colourful fishing boats bobbing up and down in the water in front of the village’s sea front. Fresh fish every day!

Fishing boats in the bay of Cascais, Portugal: Praia dos Pescadores

Cascais is situated on the north side of the mouth of the River Tejo which flows through the Portuguese capital, Lisbon. Cascais’ popularity dates from 1870, when King Luís I decided to convert the 17th century Citadela here into his summer residence.

Cascais, very popular place for tourists: Rua Direita

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists: what a lovely design, you feel like you’re walking  on waves like Jesus did 😉 . Cascais is a popular vacation spot for both Portuguese and foreign tourists, with a small city center. One can find quality shops here and once you reach Rua Direita, which is a must when visiting Cascais, the shops are rich and varied.

Terrace restaurant, cafe & bar ‘O Poéta’ Cascais, Largo Luís de Camões

Where to find a good restaurant? There are restaurants everywhere but I prefer the friendly atmosphere of restaurant ‘O Poéta’, located in the center of Cascais on a cozy square, Largo Luís de Camõesjust near the famous poet’s statue, and just a few steps away from the beach.

Avoid the agressive waiters on this square trying to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Restaurant/cafe ‘O Poéta’ Cascais

The service is very friendly and the food and the wine are excellent. They serve all different kinds of food, so it’s an ideal place for groups. Football lovers can watch the matches: huge screens are strategically placed outside and inside the restaurant. Locals like this place too!

Restaurant ‘O Poéta’ Cascais: picanha

My almoço (lunch): picanha (delicious rump cover), € 11.50, glass of white wine € 2.75, small bottle of water € 2.00. Fish-lovers will be in seventh heaven here. Try the cataplana, a seafood platter served with rice or potatoes. But they also serve tajines (maroccan dishes, € 14.90) and pasta dishes. There’s also a beautiful restaurant inside on the first floor.

Restaurant/bar ‘O Poéta’ Cascais: owner Ayyildiz (l)

Owner of restaurant ‘O Poéta’ is Ayyildiz. Together with his Portuguese wife Paula he bought the restaurant in 2009.

Ayyildiz: ” I was born in Turkey, at the age of 18 I moved to Holland. During 11 years I worked in several restaurants (he still speaks fluently Dutch). Then I moved to Portugal. Our restaurant is famous for the beef tenderloin and the tournedos (from France). And the fish, like the boneless sea bass. Portuguese people are used to it but most tourists do not like bones”.

Restaurant ‘O Poeta’. Rua Regimento 19 de Infantaria, 55-61 (Largo de Camões), Cascais. Facebook

Cascais beach & a lazy Sunday afternoon in September

This beach is only five mins walking distance from restaurant ‘O Poéta’ . But there’s much more to find in Cascais and the Estoril coast, like a vibrant nightlife and a rich cultural life.

Cascais in September

There’s a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available, free bike-rental for tourists, and the nearby (5 km, easily accessible by bus or by train) popular Guincho beach is one of the best windsurfing beaches in Europe. Strong northern winds are predominant during summer time (June–August) as well as smaller north-west swells, making this beach ideal for windsurfing and kitesurfing.

YouTube movie Graham goes Guincho

Cascais: Museum Conde Castro Guimarães

This Municipal Museum is near by the sea and it keeps a very original architecture because its aim is to promote art. The palace is from 19th century and it was property of Manuel Castro Guimarães (a Portuguese Count from Cascais). More….

How to get there from Lisbon?

Lisbon, train to Cascais

Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon by train: ‘Linha de Cascais’ (name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) from Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, ferry and trainstation. Return ticket: around 5 euro.

Short term rentals in Lisbon: my 100 m2 authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in Mouraria (short term rentals):

Cascais & one of the small beaches