Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado music & 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Looking for a short term vacation apartment? My three bedroom apartment with sunny patio (30 m2) in this historic area, Mouraria).

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Amália Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Popular restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ Lisbon: delicious typical Portuguese food & fado history

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, you’ll find Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’,  Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and a very informal atmosphere . One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon in June

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon kitchen

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgílio Oliveira, the chef, preparing my lunch.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meia dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon November ’13: lunch Dutch ladies

We enjoyed the menu of the day including duck with rice and steak with a coffee sauce with garlic, 2 bottles of the restaurant’s tasty red house wine (Lisbon region). Total price for 9 persons (in 2013) : 110:50 euro.

Ze da Mouraria dec 16 2015 dameslunch

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December ’15: lunch with Dutch friends

We enjoyed Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) delicious! Jolanda, Liesbeth, Josephine, Margriet, Hendriktje, Gezina and Feikje. Bill including wine (8 persons): around 150 euro.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon street2

Mouraria , Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins has begun recently.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon meat Picanha

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 16. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood

Mouraria, very old historical part of Lisbon

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood fado Severa

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

Ze da Mouraria Lisbon December 16 dames lunch straatje

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street.

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards
Lisbon restaurant Ze da Mouraria fado pictures
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff

Remarkable Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon & final resting place Portuguese rich and famous

This remarkable ‘city of the deads’ is really an interesting place to visit.  Famous Portuguese personalities are buried here, mainly actors,  TV talk show hosts, singers, writers & painters

‘City of the deads’: cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon: a funerary chapel & 4 garbage bins……??  😉

Famous fado artist Amália Rodrigues 

The mortal remains of  Amália Rodrigues, the famous fado artist,  were transferred to the National Pantheon  in Lisbon (under enormous pressure from her admirers and a change in the law requiring a minimum of four years before repatriation).

Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon

City of the deads: cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ ? (Cemitério dos Prazeres)

After the city of Lisbon was hit by an outbreak of cholera in 1833, causing thousands of deaths,  it was urgent to create a large cemetery for both rich and poorer victims. It has the weird name of  Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’, called after the nearby neighborhood (Prazeres) with the same name. Many of its tombs are big mausoleums, some with the size of small chapels.

Cemetery of Pleasures Cemitério dos Prazeres 2 Lisbon

Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon & one of the 70 ‘streets’

Tranquility & landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport

Once you enter the cemetery the sound of the city fades and the tranquility overwhelms you. Beautiful trees, a strange atmosphere and joyful singing of birds. You imagine yourself walking in a previous century, only disturbed by plane noise, rather loud, every 10 minutes. The cemetery is located close to the landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport.

As far as I know nobody at this cemetery seems to complain 😉 🙂

Cemetery of Pleasures Cemitério dos Prazeres 3 Lisbon

Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon

Most of the Prazeres mausoleums belong to rich, old or ‘important’ families, like f.i. the Palmela family. Many of the mausoleums are richly elaborated, have fine sculptures and decorations. There are also statues of the deceased. It’s like a ‘city in a city’ for the dead, with well-defined lanes (70! ) and funerary chapels that were built to look like little houses.

Cemetery of Pleasures Cemitério dos Prazeres 4 Lisbon river view

Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon

The unusual about a lot of these graves is that they have little “front doors” with glass windows through which you can see the caskets and remnants of the dead and their visitors. Most of the trees are a species cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), much used in Portuguese cemeteries.

Cemetery of Pleasures Cemitério dos Prazeres 5 Lisbon river Tejo views

The cemetery also provides great views over the Alcântara valley, the river Tagus and the 25 April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

Until 1985, the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was burried here. Thereafter his mortal remains were transferred to the cloisters of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Cemetery of Pleasures Cemitério dos Prazeres 7 Lisbon

Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon

An example of a ‘front door’ with glass windows through which you can see the caskets.

Cemetery of Pleasures Cemitério dos Prazeres 8 Lisbon

Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon

TRAM 28 – last stop

The cemetery, one of the largest of the Portuguese capital, can be reached by taking Electrico 28, which is a traditional and charming Lisbon tram, to its last stop in Prazeres. Open every day of the week from 09:00 – 17:00 (May – September 09:00 – 18:00). Largo dos PrazeresPraça São João Bosco 

More about cemeteries in Portugal

Cemiterio Prazeres entrance

Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’ Lisbon : entrance

YouTube

Fado history Mouraria Lisbon: a passionate liaison & first Fado singer Maria Severa

Historic area Mouraria contains a tangled street layout just as in Alfama, which has remained since the times of the Moors.

Mouraria Historical Center typical lley

Mouraria, Lisbon, one of Lisbon’s oldest districts.

The Arabs withdrew into this quarter after Lisbon was conquered by the Portuguese – a ghetto for people of different faiths arose. In the 19th C. prostitution and fado, which at this time was considered to be indecent, brought the quarter a bad name.

Mouraria Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão. How to get there

Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. The area is full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap (but good!) small restaurants.

Looking for a vacation stay in Lisbon? My Three bedroom apartment with sunny pátio (30 m2) in Mouraria – (short term rentals).

Mouraria historical center fado Rua da Severa


Largo da Severa’ Lisbon in area Mouraria.

Fado

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of fado music. The quarter is still today associated with fado: The ‘Casa de Severa’ at Largo da Severa 2 was the home of the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando, who died at age 26 on November 30, 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Famous performer of fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz.

Mouraria historical center fado plaque

(‘Mouraria, sculpture Berço do Fado‘, fado was born here)

Rua da Mouraria/ corner Rua do Capelão. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. But the scandal increased fado’s appeal, leading to the publication of its first sheet music.

Fado Maria Severa painting

Famous painting Maria da Severa, regarded as the first fado singer

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”.

Mouraria Historical Center house Maria Severa fado singer

Fadista Maria da Severa’s house

UPDATE 2014:

Maria da Severa’s house is beautifully remodeled, you can enjoy pure fado here and traditional Portuguese food

There is a plaque in Maria Severa’s memory and a stylized fado guitar can be seen on the newly surfaced road where she lived. The memory of the singer is also kept alive in the pub called “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) in the nearby Rua do Capelao , with a painting of her hanging on the wall.

Mouraria Fado Friends of Maria Severa

Cafe “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) Mouraria Lisbon

Rua do Capelao 32, owner senhor Antonio Correia Alves Pais

Walk with friends Ans and Loek in Mouraria: a sua saúde ! Picture: Loek Polack

More about this remarkable little bar.

Historic Alfama Lisbon: the Pantheon, marvelous river views & the remains of Amalia Rodrigues

You can find the Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) on Campo de Santa Clara, near Lisbons’ most famous flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’ (Thieves market)

lissabon-12-17-december-2007-001.jpg

The Pantheon is opened daily, from 09:00 – 13:00 and 15:00-19:00, a ticket cost 2 euro. Address:  Campo de Santa Clara Lisbon.

It is possible to walk around the inside of the dome, you can climb the 169 stairs (I did it, pfffffff!) or use the elevator. From the exterior of the dome the view on the Alfama area and on to the Tagus river is marvelous!

Pantheon view 25 april bridge

View on the historic Alfama area and the Tagus river

History: the Church of Santa Engrácia (Igreja de Santa Engrácia) is a 17th century monument. In the 20th century the church has been converted into the National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Alfama Pantheon Amalia Rodrigues

Amalia Rodrigues

Its construction took 284 years and gave origin to the Portugese expression “Santa Engrácia works“, a Portuguese synonym for long unfinished works…..

Building work proceeded from 1682 through 1712. Eventually a dome was added, whereupon the church was reinaugurated in 1966. The magnificent 18th-century baroque organ was brought from the Lisbon Cathedral.

Alfama Pantheon organ

The magnificent 18th-century baroque organ

In 1966, during the government of the dictator Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, the Church of Santa Engrácia was turned into a National Pantheon. There are cenotaphs to f.i. Luís de Camões (famous Portugese poet), Pedro Alvares Cabral (Portuguese explorer), Vasco da Gama (commander of the first ships to sail directly from Europe to India) and Prince Henri The Navigator, an important figure in the early days of the Portugese Empire.

Alfama Pantheao Vasco da Gama

Vasco da Gama, his remains are elsewhere….

Apartments: Three bedroom apartment with lovely patio (30m2) in historic Lisbon, Mouraria & history

This old building in the heart of Mouraria, once home of Fado music and famous performer Amália Rodrigues (‘Lady of Lisbon’) is suitable for a long weekend trip with your friends to explore Lisbon’s nightlife, a romantic week with your beloved or a summer holiday with your family. The quiet patio of 30m2 (sunny from March till October) with plants and flowers makes this apartment a nice location for your summer holidays in the city. There’s easy access to public transport, and all major sight-seeing in the city center are within walking distance. For bookings, availability and prices, call 0031 653941845 or skype Julie Kruijs (skype: juliekr1956) in the Netherlands.

Website with all the info you need

Lisbon Mouraria apartment dinner patio September 2008

Mouraria, September 2008

BBQ in 2008 with some good friends: Maurits (from Holland, living in Lisbon), Aurelio (from Brazil, living in Lisbon), Sheila (Canadian, living in Lisbon), Rob (living in Lisbon) and his mother (from England), Jur and Hans (from Holland) and I (Julie, living in Amsterdam, sometimes in Lisbon). I’m the one who writes the articles on this blog.

Apartment Mouraria June 2016

The 30 m2 patio is what makes this apartment really nice. In summertime you can catch some sun (from March – October) and walk the to kitchen fridges to get yourself a cold beer or a freezin’ bottle of Vinho Verde. At night you can sit outside, cool of after a hot summers day and have barbeque. There’s a large wooden table with 6 (4 comfortable) chairs, 1 relax chair and 2 beautiful umbrellas

Facilities

The apartment, with a total surface of 100 square meters offers a lot of comfort.

Lisbon apartment Mouraria sleeping room

The sunny livingroom has antique wooden doors that open to a small french balcony overlooking ‘Rua do Terreirinho’, a narrow street with many old houses and typical bars, and small restaurants. There’s a couch (twoseater) and a large eatingtable with four comfortable chairs. WiFi is available, bring your own laptop and you’ll have unlimited acces to the internet. There is a smart satelite TV system with hundreds of international channels.

bedroom_apartment_lisbon_mourariaThe master bedroom (with a double bed) that lies next to the living room has it’s own balcony facing the street as well. (Double glass windows). Clean sheets (and a full cleaning of the house) are taken care of before you arrive. If you plan to stay for a langer period we can arrange for the house and the beds to be cleaned during your visit as well. 2 big antique wooden closets provides more then sufficient closet space for your luggage.

The house has two extra bedrooms (one with boxspring beds) and five/six people can sleep in all comfort. New duvets and luxury duvet-covers (Essenza). A Chicco babybed plus matrass ( 0-4 years) is available for free.

There’s a large bathroom, bathtub and shower, a washing machine and a dryer (you can use it for free). Plenty of towels are provided.

The kitchen has been renovated, there’s a small table for your breakfast, a fridge, microwave, 4-burner-electric-cooker, pans, coffee-maker (and a Nespresso), fruit juicer, (wine) glasses, plates, cutlery, kitchen-linen etc. Good heating system for the colder evenings in wintertime via a eco-heating system.

Mouraria neighborhood my apartment

Mouraria, home of fado Music

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music then Mouraria. This ‘Bairro’ (neighborhood in Portuguese) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça (beautiful city viewpoint), Alfama and Costa de Castelo  (Castle of Saint George) is nowadays a ‘multiculti’ area.

Mouraria neighborhood apartment December 2008

Mouraria was given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques after the ‘siege of Lisbon’, in which Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. This siege put an end to the Islamic control in the Iberian peninsula. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in the Mouraria.

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado music. Amália Rodrigues, Lady of Lisbon, the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz. More

Mouraria close to the apartment Rua do Terreirinho

The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap traditional restaurants. (No nightlife, if you’re looking for bars and disco’s, go to the nearby Bairro Alto neighborhood).

At the corner of the street is a night bar: Flamingo open till 03:00  ….

Lisbon Mouraria apartment 3 bedrooms patio 30 m2

Mouraria apartment

Lovely pátio summer 2014 dinner with friends Rob and Felipe

Restaurant Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho Laurinda & Jose Marie March 15

Restaurant in the street

The restaurant of Jose Marie and his wife Laurinda is a perfect place for a real portugese lunch. Don’t expect international food in this tiny restaurant. Their specialities are dishes like Cozido a Portuguesa (different kinds of meats, sausages and vegetables cooked in the same water), Coelho a caçador (Rabbitstew, in red wine) and Favas com entrecosto (Beans with porc meat and sausages).

If you don’t feel like experimenting, try a ‘bitoque. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice. Prices are very fair ca. 8 euro for a meal. In the late hours when the shops are closed and you are on your way home, you can always stop at Jose’s and take some beers, wine, water and even food home.

Casa rosa Mouraira Nov 15 2

Libon, área Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho, October 2015

Reservation & availability calendar