Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, street parties, naughty lyrics & grilled sardines

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.  Festas 2018

Area Mouraria Lisbon in the month of June

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon.

In the month of June, all the streets in the historic areas in Lisbon are decorated with garlands and lights, the atmosphere is wonderful! 🙂

Lisbon, Rua dos Remédios, area Alfama June 2018  & World Championship football: viva Portugal!

Every year mid-June, the time-honoured Santo António celebrations take over the streets of Lisbon, filling them with grilled-sardine and sangria-selling stalls, cheery bunting, and happy people. More..

Lisbon historic area Mouraria June 2018

View from terrace cafe/restaurant Bruta FlorLargo da Severa, Lisbon 

Who was matchmaker Saint AnthonySanto António (15 August 1195 – 13 June 1231)?

Saint Anthony’s brides: YouTube 

June 12, 2018: The Saint Anthony’s mass marriages  in Lisbon. Picture: Josephine Lucassen

Celebrated since before the 25 April Revolution in 1974, the Santo António weddings are held to give cash-strapped local couples the chance to wed in a large joint ceremony. More…

The lucky couples receive everything free of charge including the ring, wedding dress and honeymoon as part of an annual competition organised by the city council.

Party time ! Historic area Mouraria June 12, 2018. Picture: Rob van Scherpenseel

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the narrow streets. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!  🙂

YouTube Saint Anthony street parties historic area Mouraria Lisbon

People are dancing on Pimba musica

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

An example of Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria ! 😉 😉 by Quim Barreiros)

June 12, 2018: The kings of the sardine (os reis da sardinha)  😉

Grilled sardines & Saint Anthony parties belong together.

Everywhere in the streets of the historic areas in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up with people in party mood.

Mouraria Lisbon June 12 2016

Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

Lisbon area Mouraria, June 12, 2018: senhor Gonçalo

In this area, short term rentals : my 100 m2 3-bedroom apartment with quiet lovely patio (30 m2) , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably

Area Mouraria Lisbon:  Saint Anthony in 2018 loves to party!

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

 Festas de Lisboa       Facebook

Waiting for the Mouraria yearly parade 2018…

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

Yearly parades June 12

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm, June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.  Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes.

Marcha da Mouraria 2018

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria June 12, 2018

 Rua da Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2016 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria, Lisbon.

Picture: Hans Stuij

June 12, 2017 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Mouraria Lisbon, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad in June

Lisbon Mouraria historical area in June party time

June 12, 2015: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year

Wine, sangria, beer,  sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets.

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints in historical area Mouraria Lisbon

Saint João 😉 😉 (sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Lisbon June 16 2016

Saint Antonio street party Mouraria Lisbon & the black bra at the neighbors’ balustrade 😉 😉

Bar Flamingo & Dutch friend Feikje Stuij

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria Lisbon, June 12, 2017 & bar Flamingo  Strike a pose! 🙂

In this area in Mouraria , short term rentals : my 3-bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely sunny patio (30 m2) , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably.

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto

YouTube Partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in area Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

Largo da Trindade Lisbon- people are dancing on Pimba music

Lisbon santo Antonio Alfama BBQ

Historic area Alfama & BBQ in the street

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube in one of the historical parts of Lisbon: Alfama

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Manjerico basil Festas de Lisboa gift R June 2

Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities

MORE …

Café Belga Lisbon: creative space, moules-frites, McChouffe & sexy bathroom decor

New in Lisbon:  Café Belga specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers. Inviting place, good food and relaxed atmosphere 🙂

Café Belga Lisbon: Kany and Miguel

Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhood: Mouraria

Miguel Avelar, Belgian architect, opened Café Belga on the ground floor of a renovated building in Mouraria, Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhood. (Moors resided here after conquering Lisbon in 1147, until being expelled in the 15th century. Few traces of that time remain).

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Reasonable priced typical Belgian dishes

Popular typical Belgian dish: moules-Frites (mussels & Belgian fries)  (Portuguese: mexilhões) € 11,50, Belgian beer on tap (Imperial) McChouffe  4.30 €,  wine (um copo do vinho da casa) € 3,50. Cafe € 1,20.

Some Belgian beers in Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Belgium, famous for many things (and besides ‘Manneken Pis‘, Little Piddler” 😉  ), is regarded as the world capital of beer. The country offers one of the largest selections of beers in the world.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon: Pedro Rita loves McChouffe

There’s a large selection of Belgian beers, some imported directly from Belgium. Wall decorations of beer marks scatter across the walls of the restaurant , along with a friend’s illustrations .

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Brussels-style Steak Tartare (€ 11.50), slow-cooked beef stew with beer (Carbonnade Flamande € 9.50)

Tasty Belgian frites (fries)

The fries (€ 3) are baked according to Belgian rules . Born in Holland I recognize the taste. They are not fried in oil but with cow lard.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & ceiling lamps

The ceiling lamps made of Philips Gramophone vinyl disks are lovely!

Vegetarian dishes 

Vegetarian hamburger made with broccoli and tofu (7,50 €), or vegetable pie (7 €) . (March 2017)

Every Saturday is moules-frites (mussels with fries) day.  For dessert there’s f.i. Belgian chocolate mousse.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Belgian bathroom 😉 😉

Café Belga Lisboa, Largo das Olarias, 37 Mouraria Lisbon. 10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28, Martim Moniz

Closed Monday.  Sunday & Tuesday – Thursday from 11:00-22:00, Friday – Saturday 11.00-00.00.

info@cafebelga.pt         Facebook

Café Belga Lisbon street, Largo das Olarias, 37 Mouraria Lisbon

Looking for a great place to stay in this area in Lisbon? Check the availability calendar of my nearby 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio.

Work in progress : in front of Café Belga a terrace will be opening soon 🙂 near a wall with amazing work of the Portuguese street artist Vhils (creation via destruction)

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisbon’: tasty croissants, Portuguese vintage & ceramic penis tradition

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ is responsible for the delicious smell 🙂 wafting through the street Rua da Madelena in Lisbon..

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena croissants

Bakery (padaria)/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : delicious handmade rustic bread and croissants

‘Fábrica Lisboa’  has its own production, which means that  croissants, bread, pies or cakes are constantly coming out of the oven in front of the customers. Traditional portuguese soups, sandwiches made with rustic bread, pies and fresh salads are also served.

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena home made bread

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Funny Portuguese vintage decoration

When you pass through Rua da Madalena and you hear a bell it’s fresh bread/croissant time!
But this space really deserves a longer visit to appreciate the vintage decoration with delightful and funny details, like old scales, bottles, bread boxes, old phones or pornographic cassettes. Even the coffee machine is vintage…… !

Fabrica cafe Lisboa Rua da Madalena croissant almond

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & my favorite croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa)

Among the things of the past, take your time to enjoy a ‘late breakfast’ or a snack with salad or scrambled eggs with ham, accompanied by rustic bread.

Croissants ‘old nunnery style’ 

There«s more than 10 different croissants, from simple (plain, € 1.20), old nunnery style (with sweet-soft egg cream, € 1.20, created by nuns who lived in monasteries with a lot of chickens in the garden… 🙂  to extra large: 2 fried eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, salad and chips ( € 7.00).

My favorite: a sweet croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa) € 2,20.

This bakery is located about 10 min. walk from my 3-bedroom apartment with 30 m2 lovely patio (short term rentals)

Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena Margriet Jan 16

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : friend Margriet de Vrieze loves this place. Tea (chá) € 1.75

Cartoon character Zé Povinho – symbol of the Portuguese working-class

The cartoon character Zé Povinho was created by satirist and designer Bordalo Pinheiro in 1875, a symbol of the Portuguese working-class people, as a caricature for the protest against the politics and the high taxes for the simple population. Still nowadays every child in Portugal knows Zé Povinho. ‘Zé’ (José or Joseph in English),  ‘Povinho’ is a diminutive for ‘Povo’, which means ‘people’.

Fabrica Lisboa bakery cafe Rua da Madalena ZE POVINHO

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’  & Zé Povinho, symbol of the Portuguese working-class people

Ceramics from Caldas da Rainha

Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon, is well known for its wonderful ceramic pottery with a long tradition. The output includes large decorative pieces, crockery, tableware and decorative objects, famous all over the world for its unique (and sometimes funny) designs. Where to find in Lisbon:  More…

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena wall with vintage and penis

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Wifi cornervintage decoration

Phallus ceramics, a Portuguese tradition

Why is there a ceramic penis between the vintage decoration? Some centers of ceramic production in Caldas da Rainha has a tradition of phalluses and amusing phallic symbols. The tradition is said to have started in Caldas when King Dom Luis, who ruled from 1861 to 1889, suggested that local potters create something more interesting 😉  Penis-shaped ceramics

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Penis-shaped ceramics are for sale in Portugal in all shapes and sizes: f.i. mugs, cups, and plates, or decorative pieces.

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena 121 street Lisbon

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

‘Fábrica Lisboa’
Rua da Madalena 121 (Baixa) Lisbon, Portugal
Free WiFi.  Facebook
Open from 08:00 – 20:00; closed on Monday
Weekend: 09:00 – 19:00.

Movie (impressions) on VIMEO

 

Lisbon: how to recognize good cheap Portuguese restaurants & tiny place José Maria & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron.

Lisbon cheap restaurant Jose Mouraria

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice 7.50 euro (fried cod): delicious!

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese food! Historical area in Mouraria, Lisbon.  Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58: José Maria & his wife Laurinda.   

Restaurant Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho Laurinda & Jose Marie March 15

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58 Lisbon

 Owners Laurinda, Jose Marie & sr. Julio (l), April 2015

The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

dutch ladies 4 feb Jose Marie lunch

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

mouraria-jose-marie-erna-deegens-september-2016

September 2016: Erna and Tonny Deegens & friends Marijn and Anneke

Good & cheap typical Portuguese food

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda delicious bitoque

For me, Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon 🙂  🙂

If you don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca. 7 euro).

Caldeirada (fish stew) : 6.50 euro. Recipe 

Looking for a nice apartment in this old neighborhood? (6 persons can sleep comfortably)

Lisbon Mouraria apartment 3 bedrooms patio 30 m2

My apartment in this area (100 m2), 3 bedrooms & lovely patio (30 m2)

Short time rental3 bedroom holiday apartment with sunny patio in this area

Laurinda Restaurant Mouraria fesh fish

Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

Eating & drinking Portugal displays and football

Football

There’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Unrequested starter dishes

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!).

Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Restaurant Carmar Lisbon Espetada near Martim Moniz

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Carne de porco à Alentejana Lisbon Mouraria cheap restaurants

Carne de porco à Alentejana 

Carne de porco à Alentejana (pork stew with clams, potatoes, coriander and garlic. Meia dose, ( half portion, 6.00  euro).This is a traditional Portuguese dish, particularly near the Atlantic coast.

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00. Dinner from 19:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto 

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 16 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria Lisbon Street tiny restaurant Jose Marie & Laurinda nov 14

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point legendary yellow tram 28

Street view from tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction!

Mouraria Lisbon restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda jan 16

January 2016

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginhain area Mouraria

Rua do Terreirinho 58 Lisbon

Historic square Intendente Lisbon: Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ & lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, visit wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

Elegant tea- and lunchroom ‘Versailles’ Lisbon: old-fashioned service & funny whipped cream pastries

If you like to visit one museum during your stay in Lisbon make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria, Pâtisserie) Versailles Lisbon september 2017

Elegant tea- and lunchroom Versailles (from 1922)

After visiting the Gulbekian Museum, a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the famous Portuguese Pasteis de natas.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon & delicious funny ‘bird’ pastries 😉

Elegant setting in informal and friendly atmosphere

The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…!

Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 : NV Lissabon

History

When lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 in the year 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon.

Construction fury first halve of 20th century

The construction fury replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylish houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today’s unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, but happily PastelariaVersailles’ is still there!  🙂 🙂

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Silver-plated tea sets

The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass.

As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea sets. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon , February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ & part of national heritage

Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the ‘grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ was recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662.

Lunch, served in a back room, is of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.

Pastelaria Versailles street 2

Entrance tea- and lunchroom Versailles in Lisbon

Tea and lunchroom Versailles Lisbon
Open: daily from 7:30 till 22:00 
Metro: Saldanha.

Versailles 3 window dressing

Window dressing Pastelaria Versailles representing Portugal and former colonies

Short term rentals: my 3-bedroom apartment (105 m2) with lovely patio in historical area Mouraria
 

Trendy Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon: excellent steak or fish & chips à la Marilyn Monroe

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ in Lisbon pays tribute to the Portuguese steak sandwich, the prego, also a traditional snack in seafood restaurants. Recommendable!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & wonderful designed wall

Portuguese way of life & artist Gonçalo Mar

The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish

It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.

YouTube: traditional bread from the isle of Madeira , bolo do caco, very tasty!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017: Pedro & Dina

Boeuf de Wagyu (Japanese super-beef) & Marilyn Monroe potatoe chips

2 croquetes 3.80 €, 1 Rissól de Camarão (shrimp) 1.90 €, Pavé (filet) Yuppie Pão 9.50 €, Prato Pavé de boeuf de Wagyu (dish with vegetables and ‘Marilyn Monroe’ potatoe chips) 11.50 €, 2 fried sweet potatoes (batata doce) 3.00 €, 2 glasses of red wine (O Tinto d’ O Prego) 7.00 €.

Why potato chips (wavy, extremely thin and crispy , as indicated on the menu card) à la Mariliyn Monroe? I assume her famous wavy dress? and maybe Marilyn’s ‘potato sack’ dress?  😉

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??

O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego .. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉  

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Portuguese history & Casas de Pasto (pasture house) 

The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.

Old Casa de Pasto ‘pasture house’ in Portugal – around 1920 … Source: Kuentro blogspot

Lisbon people (Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.

With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.

Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356, 
facebook .Open: every day from 12:00 tot 24:00
website   
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Looking for a short-time rental authentic 3 bedroom apartment with lovely private patio ( 30 m2) in the historic area of Lisbon? More info about my apartment in Mouraria & availability calendar

Restaurant/cafe ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais near Lisbon: lovely roof terrace, healthy food & Dutch owner Anna

The ‘House of Wonders’ is really worth a visit in Cascais.  This unique place is easy to find in the center, close to the beach. Easy to reach from Lisbon (ca. 30 min. by train)

Roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ in Cascais: excellent relaxing place!

The lovely roof terrace with comfortable cushions is situated on the top of the beautiful building. Even in wintertime when the weather is good you can sit here and enjoy the fabulous bayview and the sunset.

Harbour- and seaview from roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais

Anna De Bruin is from Dutch origin and owner of “House of Wonders” in Cascais. “I lived 20 years in Africa and South America, where I launched the 1st collection of recycled boat furniture in the Caribbean”.

Cafe Gallery ‘House of Wonders’ owner Anna Catharina de Bruin

Anna: ” I chose Portugal to live because this country is very human and very authentic. It’s a mix between Europe and Africa, where many people are connected to this continent and in spite of the crisis they are positive, like me”.

First floor cafe the “House of Wonders” Cascais, December 2012

You can enjoy a range of home cooked food from the cafe. It is not a vegetarian restaurant but there are good options available. The menu often offer home made soup, quiches, pies and very tasty salads.

Snack with presunto (traditional Portuguese ham)

The food is fantastic and also the very friendly staff! Prices are fair, like a quiche and salad (€ 7.50), vegetable soup (€ 3.50) and a glass of good Portuguese white wine (€3.75).

First floor cafe & art gallery the “House of Wonders” Cascais

The first floor cafe is also an art gallery and there are beautiful African artifacts for sale, mainly handmade. I met a nice lady from Boston: Lynn Kenney (picture). If you are traveling alone the “House of Wonders’ is a cozy place to meet other people from around the world.

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais: Bernardo and Anna

Anna: “This project was my dream! I opened the “House of Wonders” in Cascais around 3 years ago – a beautiful space, very cozy. A unique concept that features furniture and decorative pieces in natural wood, made from old dhowns – abandoned boats from the beaches of the Swahili coast – Kenya, Tanzania and Mozambique.

Ground floor “House of Wonders” Cascais: beautiful recycled boat furniture from Africa

Cascais is easy to reach by train from Lisbon’s station Cais do Sodré (around 30 minutes). More about Cascais

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais

Cafe Galeria House of Wonders Cascais: Largo da Misericordia  in the historic center of Cascais, Portugal. Phone (00351) 91 170 2428.

Facebook . Free WiFi.

House of Wonders Cascais roofterrace oct 13

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais October 2013

House of Wonders rooftop terrace Cascais January 2016

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais , January 2016

Lisbon luxury shop Manteigaria Silva & bacalhau (codfish, must-try!), Portugal’s dried faithful friend

The Portuguese have a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).

Fish bacalhau codfish Manteigaria Silva

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

365 different ways to prepare codfish

When you stay in Lisbon or in the wonderful country Portugal, a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

bacalhau-shop1.jpg

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

The smell of dried and salted bacalhau is odd and penetrating……pfffffff… but the taste is absolutely delicious when cooked!

Bacalhau traditional dish in Portugal

Bacaolada, traditional Portuguese bacalhau dish.

Bacalhau deserves a good wine: green (Vinho Verde) or mature wines, from Alentejo, Dão or Douro.

History

For at least 500 years ago the Portuguese learned how to salt cod at sea and sun-dry it. It keeps for many months this way without refrigeration. And then it requires being soaked for 24 hours in changes of water before being used to prepare a dish. The soaking reconstitutes the fish and gets rid of the excessive salt also. Even today, where refrigeration isn’t a problem, the Portuguese have not lost their love for bacalhau. Dishes based on this main ingredient are sure to be a part of most holiday and other celebrations. It’s a staple of the Portuguese diet and you’ll find it prepared in all Portuguese homes and (cheap) restaurants.

One of the reasons for the popularity of bacalhau in Portugal and other catholic countries, was because of the many days on which the Church forbade the eating of meat.

Bacalhau a braz

Very popular: ‘bacalhau à brás’, made from thin strips of cod mixed with onions, and thin strips of potatoes bound by eggs.

Codfish Gomes de sa

Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, cooked in a casserole with thinly sliced potatoes and onions,  garnished with hard-boiled eggs and black olives.

This recipe was invented by Jose Luis Gomes de Sá  Jr., the son of a rich nineteenth century merchant (apparently he dealt in cod) in Porto. The family fortune dwindled and the son had to find a job at the famous restaurant Lisbonense in downtown Porto. It was there that he created the now well known recipe.

Pasteis de Bacalhau

Besides: Pastéis de Bacalhau (codfish pastry), croquetes.

A delicacy and a good idea with a cold glass of Portuguese white wine or beer on tap(imperial)!

Roasted chestnuts Lisbon & November 11 Saint Martin Day traditions

The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.

chestnuts in Lisbon December 08 quente e boas

‘Hot and good, a dozen for € 2“.

Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Chestnuts in Lisbon white paper bag instead of yellow papers

Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon

Saint Martin Day, is celebrated on November 11.

It is called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer). The Portuguese celebrate it with jeropiga (a sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

Tram Lisbon Feliz Natal and roasted chestnuts

Rossio, Lisbon in December

On Saint Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire, where they roast chestnuts and drink água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent alcohol).

Chestnuts and Jeropiga

Chestnuts and jeropiga

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chiado chestnuts

Largo do Chiado, Lisbon