Portugal’s long history with codfish & recipe favorite Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá

The Portuguese have a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) ‘discovered’ America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod (bacalhau) near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).

Fish bacalhau codfish Manteigaria Silva

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

365 different ways to prepare codfish

When you stay in Lisbon or in the wonderful country Portugal, a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

bacalhau-shop1.jpg

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

The smell of dried and salted bacalhau is odd and penetrating……pfffffff… but the taste is absolutely delicious when cooked!

Bacalhau traditional dish in Portugal

Bacaolada, traditional Portuguese bacalhau dish.

Bacalhau deserves a good wine: green (Vinho Verde) or mature wines, from Alentejo, Dão or Douro.

History

For at least 500 years ago the Portuguese learned how to salt cod at sea and sun-dry it. It keeps for many months this way without refrigeration. And then it requires being soaked for 24 hours in changes of water before being used to prepare a dish. The soaking reconstitutes the fish and gets rid of the excessive salt also.

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1  Lisbon

Even today, where refrigeration isn’t a problem, the Portuguese have not lost their love for bacalhau. Dishes based on this main ingredient are sure to be a part of most holiday and other celebrations.

Jose Maria & Paula & bacalhau à Brás, a very popular dish

Recipe bacalhau à Brás

One of the reasons for the popularity of bacalhau in Portugal and other catholic countries, was because of the many days on which the Church forbade the eating of meat.

Codfish Gomes de sa

Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, cooked in a casserole with thinly sliced potatoes and onions,  garnished with hard-boiled eggs and black olives.

This recipe was invented by Jose Luis Gomes de Sá  Jr., the son of a rich nineteenth century merchant (apparently he dealt in cod) in Porto. The family fortune dwindled and the son had to find a job at the famous restaurant Lisbonense in downtown Porto. It was there that he created the now well known recipe.

Pasteis de Bacalhau

Besides: Pastéis de Bacalhau (codfish pastry), croquetes.

A delicacy and a good idea with a cold glass of Portuguese white wine or beer on tap(imperial)!

Roasted chestnuts Lisbon, November 11 St. Martin’s Day traditions & liqueur Jeropiga

The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.

chestnuts in Lisbon December 08 quente e boas

‘Hot and good, a dozen for € 2“.

Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Chestnuts in Lisbon white paper bag instead of yellow papers

Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon

St. Martin’s Day is celebrated on November 11

It’s called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer).

St. Martin’s Day dinner at home with friends, November 2018

The Portuguese celebrate St. Martin’s Day with jeropiga (a traditional delicious sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

How to make jeropiga 

Tram Lisbon Feliz Natal and roasted chestnuts

Rossio, Lisbon in December

Traditions

On St. Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire.

How to roast chestnuts in the oven

Roasted chestnuts

Chestnuts are roasted, traditional alcoholic drinks are served, like água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent).

Chestnuts and Jeropiga

Chestnuts and jeropiga

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chiado chestnuts

Largo do Chiado, Lisbon

More….

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, naughty lyrics & grilled sardines

Due to COVID 19 : no street parties, no brides, no parades in June 2020 & 2021, how sad… 🙁  🙁   More: (Atlas Lisboa)   Hopefully next year will be better! Cultura na Rua

Area Mouraria Lisbon in the month of June, 2019

Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. A wonderful atmosphere! 🙂

Lisbon, Rua dos Remédios, area Alfama June 2019

Every year mid-June, the time-honoured Santo António celebrations take over the streets of Lisbon, filling them with grilled-sardine and sangria-selling stalls, cheery bunting, and happy people. More..

Lisbon historic area Mouraria in June

Who was matchmaker Saint AnthonySanto António (15 August 1195 – 13 June 1231)?

June 12, 2018: The Saint Anthony’s mass marriages  in Lisbon. Picture: Josephine Lucassen

YouTube weddings (casamentos)

Celebrated since before the 25 April Revolution in 1974, the Santo António weddings are held to give cash-strapped local couples the chance to wed in a large joint ceremony. More…

Area Mouraria Lisbon June 2019, Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

Saint Anthony’s bridesYouTube 

The lucky couples receive everything free of charge including the ring, wedding dress and honeymoon as part of an annual competition organised by the city council.

Party time ! Historic area Mouraria June 12, 2018. Picture: Rob van Scherpenseel

Square : Largo da Severa 2 Lisbon

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the narrow streets. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!  🙂

YouTube Saint Anthony street parties historic area Mouraria Lisbon

People are dancing on Pimba musica

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

An example of Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria ! 😉 😉 by Quim Barreiros)

June 12, Eve of Santo Antonio, Mouraria Lisbon

The kings of the sardine (os reis da sardinha)  😉

Grilled sardines & Saint Anthony parties belong together!

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad in June

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Mouraria Lisbon June 12, 2016, Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

Everywhere in the streets of the historic areas in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up with people in party mood.

June 12, 2019

Street party Saint Santo Antonio & romantic couple overlooking the festivities 🙂

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Margriet de Vrieze & sardine party 🙂  Mouraria Lisbon

 Festas de Lisboa       Facebook

Waiting for the Mouraria yearly parade 2018…

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

Yearly parades June 12 : Youtube 2018

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm, June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.

Area Mouraria Lisbon & yearly parade June 12, 2019,  Santo Antonio Marchas Populares

Each group represents one of Lisbon’s twenty neighborhoods There ‘s a winner for the best performance and costumes. More..

Marcha da Mouraria 2018

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria June 12, 2018

How to reach this area

 Rua Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2019 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria, Lisbon.

Wine, sangria, beer,  sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the narrow streets.

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015

Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints

Saint João 😉 😉

(sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Santo Antonio party June 12, 2019

How about a Chinese restaurant selling typical Portugese snacks? 🙂

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto

YouTube Partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in area Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood. Every bar and club shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

June 2019, Lisbon & historical area Alfama

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Love poems

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities. Picture: Luc de Leersnyder

MORE …

Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ Lisbon, historic square Intendente & lovely loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, August 2020. Square Largo do Intendente 59

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon 2015: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine, 2015

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Square Intendente 2018

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

Asian food court Mercado Oriental Lisbon: 7 food stalls & taberna Macau

In 2017 the space above the Amanhecer Oriental supermarket has turned into the Oriental Market, a  restaurant area with 7 food stalls dedicated to different Asian streetfood. Friendly priced. Worth a visit! 🙂

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & my favorite stall: taberna Macau

Mercado Oriental & André Magalhães

The Oriental Market is located in front of Square Martim Moniz in Lisbon, with 7 different food stalls, 3 of them created by André Magalhães, also owner of tiny & trendy bistro ‘Taberna Rua das Flores in Lisbon.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Macanese minchi

Taberna Macau & minchi

Taberno Macau serves dishes like pato cabidela (duck head), sopa de lacassá ( €7), recipe and Macanese minchi (beef and potatoe chips), € 8, small bottle of water € 1.

Recipe minchi (YouTube)

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & gua bao (Japanese pork belly buns), popular street food in Taiwan

Macau was formerly a colony of the Portuguese Empire .

Macanese cuisine is unique, and consists of a blend of southern Chinese (especially Cantonese) and Portuguese cuisines.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon. Delicious 🙂

Between 1557 and 1887, Macau was governed by the Portuguese under Chinese sovereignty and authority. The colony remained under Portuguese rule until 1999, when it was transferred to China.

Mercado Oriental, Lisbon & Bao Bar: delicious oriental food, cocktails and beers

Foodstall Kamakura & Japanese sandwiches

Typical Japanese sandwiches, like katsu sando, a Japanese breaded specialty, available in different varieties. How to prepare katsu sando: Youtube

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Kamakura 2018

Sushi House

Traditional sushi and other fusion proposals. It has take-away.  Sushi combinations from 8 €, niguiris, sashimi, temakis and maki rolls.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Mint House

Mint House

Here you can taste Vietnamese dishes such as Vietnamese spring rolls (3 €), Pho soup, thinly sliced beef with rice(6 €), sauteed rice pasta with shrimp or chicken (6 €).

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon, Bao Bar & Sara Pezzini

K-Bob

Korean-inspired dishes, such as sundubu-jjigae, obibimbap (rice with meat and vegetables) or yangnyeom (fried spicy chicken). Also ramen and vegetable pancakes.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Castle of Saint George

The Mercado Oriental is open every day from 12h00 to 23h00. Very  popular, especially the weekends

Where: R. da Palma, 41
Square Martim Moniz, Mouraria Lisbon   facebook

Very friendly staff 🙂

Popular Rua das Portas de Santo Antão Lisbon & avoid restaurant Torremolinos

Lisbon is probably the best place in Europe to enjoy seafood. There are a couple of very popular ‘tourist restaurant’ streets,  such as Rua das Portas de Santo Antão where you will find a wide selection of options.

Lisbon Rossio near Restauradores

The lively street just behind the National Theater Doña Maria II at Largo de São Domingos, near Rossio Square and Restauradores, is a real mecca for seafood lovers, and a very popular tourist street.

Lisbon restaurants R. das Portas de Santo Antão 2

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão: rather touristy and aggressive waiters

The street name dates from the 15th C. when a gate in the former town wall stood here. There’s also some very interesting buildings to be seen. The restaurants are well positioned for people-watching, prices are not really cheap, but the quality is good. In general, this street is rather touristy and the waiters are sometimes a bit aggressive in their approach to tourists.

Shrimps and lobster window restaurant

One of the restaurant windows, with fresh lobsters and shrimps.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão , just north of Rossio, is one of the few streets in Lisbon where you’ll be approached by waiters in the street trying to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Lisbon popular tourist street Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 11

‘Free’ starters

Be prepared: in the more expensive and touristical restaurants in Lisbon you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarão). They are not a part of the meal! You won’t pay for them if you don’t eat them, and often the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. More ……

If you don’t speak Portuguese, make sure you’ve got your dictionary handy!

restaurant-cervejeria-inhaca-rua-das-portas-de-s-antao.jpg

Restaurante Cervejaria Inhaca

Cervejaria means ‘beerhouse’, where beer is produced (or used to be produced) and where you can eat as well. There are many Cervejaria’s in Lisbon (like the well known restaurant Portugalia).

Restaurante Cervejaria INHACA

Finger licking good, but expensive

Shrimp and lobster dishes for 2 persons, about € 55, except drinks. Restaurant Inhaca, R. das Portas de Santo Antão 8.

Avoid restaurant Torremolinos, a tourist trap, 🙁    read this

( 2020: the name Torremolinos on the facade has recently been removed)

In general: make sure you are aware of what you are being charged for. Most of the restaurants in this area are tourist traps.

A few great restaurants in this street: former palace Casa do Alentejo (a hidden gem!), or restaurant Gambrinus .

Restaurant Solar dos Presuntos, R. Portas de Santo Antão 150, YouTube

A good idea is to walk around and eat in a restaurant where there are no tourists in sight…….

For seafood lovers, go to one of Lisbon’s best seafood restaurants ‘RAMIRO’, also open on Sundays (Intendente).

Cafe/bakery ‘Fábrica Lisbon’: perfect croissants & ceramic penis tradition

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ is responsible for the delicious smell 🙂 wafting through the street Rua da Madalena in Lisbon..

Bakery (padaria)/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : delicious handmade rustic bread and croissants

‘Fábrica Lisboa’  has its own production, which means that croissants, bread, pies or cakes are constantly coming out of the oven in front of the customers. Traditional portuguese soups, sandwiches made with rustic bread, pies and fresh salads are also served.

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Funny Portuguese vintage decoration

When you pass through Rua da Madalena and you hear a bell it’s fresh bread/croissant time!
But this space really deserves a longer visit to appreciate the vintage decoration with delightful and funny details, like old scales, bottles, bread boxes, old phones or pornographic cassettes. Even the coffee machine is vintage…… !

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & my favorite croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa)

Among the things of the past, take your time to enjoy a ‘late breakfast’ or a snack with salad or scrambled eggs with ham, accompanied by rustic bread.

Scrambled eggs with bread & presunto (ham) 6.90 euro

Croissants ‘old nunnery style’ 

There«s more than 10 different croissants, from simple (plain, € 1.20), old nunnery style (with sweet-soft egg cream, € 1.20, created by nuns who lived in monasteries with a lot of chickens in the garden... 🙂  to extra large: 2 fried eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, salad and chips ( € 7.00).

My favorite: a sweet croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa) € 2,20.

Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena Margriet Jan 16

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : friend Margriet de Vrieze loves this place. Tea (chá) € 1.75

Cartoon character Zé Povinho – symbol of the Portuguese working-class

The cartoon character Zé Povinho was created by satirist and designer Bordalo Pinheiro in 1875, a symbol of the Portuguese working-class people, as a caricature for the protest against the politics and the high taxes for the simple population. Still nowadays every child in Portugal knows Zé Povinho. ‘Zé’ (José or Joseph in English),  ‘Povinho’ is a diminutive for ‘Povo’, which means ‘people’.

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’

Zé Povinho, symbol of the Portuguese working-class people

Ceramics from Caldas da Rainha

Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon, is well known for its wonderful ceramic pottery with a long tradition. The output includes large decorative pieces, crockery, tableware and decorative objects, famous all over the world for its unique (and sometimes funny) designs. Where to find in Lisbon:  More…

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Wifi cornervintage decoration

Phallus ceramics, a Portuguese tradition

Why is there a ceramic penis between the vintage decoration? Some centers of ceramic production in Caldas da Rainha has a tradition of phalluses and amusing phallic symbols. The tradition is said to have started in Caldas when King Dom Luis, who ruled from 1861 to 1889, suggested that local potters create something more interesting 😉  Penis-shaped ceramics

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Penis-shaped ceramics are for sale in Portugal in all shapes and sizes: f.i. mugs, cups, and plates, or decorative pieces.

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

‘Fábrica Lisboa’
Rua da Madalena 121 (Baixa) Lisbon, Portugal
Free WiFi.  Facebook
Open from 08:00 – 20:00; closed on Monday
Weekend: 09:00 – 19:00.

Movie (impressions) on VIMEO

Stylish Royale Café Lisbon: surprising patio, creative cuisine & elegant area Chiado

Entering Royale Café in Lisbon, we were pleasantly surprised by the stylish interior…. but the biggest surprise is the back patio: just lovely!

Royale Café Lisbon & lovely garden patio

Located in the elegant district Chiado in Lisbon, Royale Café offers creative  cuisine with mediterranean ingredients (great vegetarian options) and fine wines.

Royale Café Chiado area, Lisbon

Quiet patio overgrown with lovely plants

Being a group of 10 people, we were lucky still enough space was available for us.  We loved the food and the cute litte outside area, overgrown with lovely plants and with lots of shade.

Royale Café Lisbon & quiet patio July 2018

Our bill for 10 persons: 167 euro

Lunch including 2 bottles of fine wine (Quinta de S. Sebastião) and some beers. Homemade creative specialties (natural- and organic products) for a good price!  🙂 . Lovely spot for a brunch (on Sundays and bankholidays). Menu

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café’s design interior is inspired by Scandinavian cafés.

Highly recommended if you are looking for some place to go which is not just traditional Portuguese.

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café – very nice English speaking staff
Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
Nº29 Chiado, LISBON
Website & reservations  Facebook
(
00351) 93 861 13 70   Free WiFi, dog friendly
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Royale Café Lisbon & streetside terrace, Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
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Open: Monday – Wednesday: 12am – 10:30pm
Thursday – Friday: 12am – 11:30pm
Saturday: 12am – 04pm
Sundays & Holidays: 12am – 10:30pm
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Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro Lisbon (Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro)

Azulejos: The Art of Lisbon’s Tiles 

Nearby: one of the most photographed squares of Lisbon’s tiled buildings. Dating back to 1863 it is covered in pale orange and yellow tiles portraying mythological images. More…

 

Lisbon: how to recognize good cheap Portuguese restaurants & José & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron.

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’ & owner José Maria

CLOSED. UPDATE March 2019: due to eviction (despejos) after 34 years ( !!) this restaurant is closed.  What a shame 🙁 🙁 

Vimeo: Evictions in Lisbon 

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’:

5 minutes walk (also open on Sundays): restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’, good food, local prices :-).  Rua Marquês Ponte de Lima 5, Mouraria, Lisbon

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria, shops fado, bars & restaurants

Owner José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice, delicious!

The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

Local priced restaurants and useful information about area Mouraria

February 2019: a city trip to Lisbon with 3 generations of the Kollmer family from the Netherlands  🙂 🙂

Good quality & local prices

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon!!  🙂  🙂

If you prefer meat, and don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca. 7 euro).

Typical Portugues & very popular: grilled sardines

Bill for 3 persons: around 30 euro

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Restaurant owner Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

January 2016: what a wonderful surprise! 🙂 Erika, Loek, Luc & Ans

Football

In Portugal there’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda November 2018

Unrequested starter dishes

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!).  NOT in this place 🙂

Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Roasted apple (sobremesa: dessert)

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00. Dinner from 19:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto 

Nun’s bellies & bacon from heaven  😉

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela in the north.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay in cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 20 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point starting point legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

Discover trendy historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Café Belga Lisbon: moules-frites, McChouffe & sexy bathroom decor

Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers, is an inviting place 🙂

Café Belga Lisbon: Kany Sissoko and Miguel Avelar

Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhood: Mouraria

Miguel Avelar, Belgian architect, opened Café Belga on the ground floor of a renovated building in Mouraria, Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhood. (Moors resided here after conquering Lisbon in 1147, until being expelled in the 15th century. Few traces of that time remain).

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Reasonable priced typical Belgian dishes

Popular typical Belgian dish: moules-Frites (mussels & Belgian fries)  (Portuguese: mexilhões) € 11,50, Belgian beer on tap (Imperial) McChouffe  4.30 €,  wine (um copo do vinho da casa) € 3,50. Cafe € 1,20.

Some Belgian beers in Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Belgium, famous for many things (and besides ‘Manneken Pis‘, Little Piddler” 😉  ), is regarded as the world capital of beer. The country offers one of the largest selections of beers in the world.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon: Pedro Rita loves McChouffe

There’s a large selection of Belgian beers, some imported directly from Belgium. Wall decorations of beer marks scatter across the walls of the restaurant , along with a friend’s illustrations .

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Brussels-style Steak Tartare (€ 11.50), slow-cooked beef stew with beer (Carbonnade Flamande € 9.50)

Tasty Belgian frites (fries)

The fries (€ 3) are baked according to Belgian rules . Born in Holland I recognize the taste. They are not fried in oil but with cow lard.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & ceiling lamps

The ceiling lamps made of Philips Gramophone vinyl disks are lovely!

Vegetarian dishes 

Vegetarian hamburger made with broccoli and tofu (7,50 €), or vegetable pie (7 €) . (March 2017)

Every Saturday is moules-frites (mussels with fries) day.  For dessert there’s f.i. Belgian chocolate mousse.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Belgian bathroom?  😉 😉

Café Belga Lisboa, Largo das Olarias, 37 Mouraria Lisbon. 10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28, Martim Moniz

Closed Monday.  Sunday & Tuesday – Thursday from 11:00-22:00, Friday – Saturday 11.00-00.00.

info@cafebelga.pt         Facebook

Café Belga Lisbon

Street, Largo das Olarias, 37 Mouraria Lisbon

Street artist Vhils

In front of Café Belga there’s a small terrace near a wall with amazing work of the Portuguese street artist Vhils (creation via destruction).

Website artsy & artist Vhils