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Bom dia! My name is Julie, I’m living in Amsterdam and I love this wonderful city, but I also fell in love with Lisbon!

Lisbon, the castle, the river Tejo & the 25 April bridge

We (together with my son) started a blog in 2008, ‘ a Lisbon guide from the inside’,  with lots of ideas to discover Lisbon.

In 2002, I bought an apartment in Lisbon in the historical area Mouraria.

Room & 3- bedroom apartment area Mouraria Lisbon

 It is not possible to rent this house

3-bedroom apartment Mouraria in Lisbon & lovely patio

Patio (25 m2) & kitchen in summertime

YouTube: 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon

Apartment Mouraria patio

flowering jasmin (March 2019)

Much more about 900 years old area Mouraria in Lisbon

Rua do Terreirinho, historic area Mouraria, in the heart of Lisbon’s city center, 2019

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Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ Mouraria Lisbon: great food & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden in Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

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Square Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow)

Wonderful very old fountain.  Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

2016: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow), December 2018

Knitted graffiti

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti 🙂

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia among others, and homemade cakes.

August 2018: Dorade (larded with peppers)  € 12, 50. Delicious!

Entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; um copo de vinho tinto/vinho branco (a glass of red or white wine) € 2,60;  small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

Home made chocolate cake  € 3:60

When entering restaurant O Corvo it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another, greater room. The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2018:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ Lisbon & Margriet de Vrieze

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’: hidden gem in Lisbon’s historical city center

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, there’s Restaurant Zé da Mouraria’. Open for a typical Portuguese lunch (almoço) from 12:00 till 16:00. Closed on Sundays.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff, June 2019

Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and an informal atmosphere  🙂

Lunches only. One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, street Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon, June 2019

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center of Lisbon are decorated with garlands and lights. Party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Chef Ricardo & codfish (bacalhau) a very popular dish in Portugal

Large food portions meant for sharing

The menu varies every day. Restaurant Zé da Mouraria serves large food portions, meant for sharing. If you go to this restaurant with 2 people order for 1 person instead of ordering for 2 !  🙂

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December 2017

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving). Bill for 2 persons, including wine, water and coffee: € 22,50.  Desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

June 2019: Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Artur Domingos 😉

On the wall in this restaurant there’s lots of portraits of famous fado singers, born in this neighborhood: Mouraria.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon June 2019

Fado music

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. More…..

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon June 2019

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays it is a trendy area.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon, June 2019

Delicious: codfish (bacalhau). When you stay in Lisbon a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street. Go early ( around 12:00 o’clock) or around 15:00. One of the best Lisbon restaurants!  🙂

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier, July 2019

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards. 
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Asian food court Mercado Oriental Lisbon: 7 food stalls & taberna Macau

In 2017 the space above the Amanhecer Oriental supermarket has turned into the Oriental Market, a  restaurant area with 7 food stalls dedicated to different Asian streetfood. Friendly priced. Worth a visit! 🙂

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & my favorite stall: taberna Macau

Mercado Oriental & André Magalhães

The Oriental Market is located in front of Square Martim Moniz in Lisbon, with 7 different food stalls, 3 of them created by André Magalhães, also owner of tiny & trendy bistro ‘Taberna Rua das Flores in Lisbon.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Macanese minchi

Taberna Macau & minchi

Taberno Macau serves dishes like pato cabidela (duck head), sopa de lacassá ( €7), recipe and Macanese minchi (beef and potatoe chips), € 8, small bottle of water € 1.

Recipe minchi (YouTube)

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & gua bao (Japanese pork belly buns), popular street food in Taiwan

Macau was formerly a colony of the Portuguese Empire .

Macanese cuisine is unique, and consists of a blend of southern Chinese (especially Cantonese) and Portuguese cuisines.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon. Delicious 🙂

Between 1557 and 1887, Macau was governed by the Portuguese under Chinese sovereignty and authority. The colony remained under Portuguese rule until 1999, when it was transferred to China.

Mercado Oriental, Lisbon & Bao Bar: delicious oriental food, cocktails and beers

Foodstall Kamakura & Japanese sandwiches

Typical Japanese sandwiches, like katsu sando, a Japanese breaded specialty, available in different varieties. How to prepare katsu sando: Youtube

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Kamakura 2018

Sushi House

Traditional sushi and other fusion proposals. It has take-away.  Sushi combinations from 8 €, niguiris, sashimi, temakis and maki rolls.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Mint House

Mint House

Here you can taste Vietnamese dishes such as Vietnamese spring rolls (3 €), Pho soup, thinly sliced beef with rice(6 €), sauteed rice pasta with shrimp or chicken (6 €).

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon, Bao Bar & Sara Pezzini

K-Bob

Korean-inspired dishes, such as sundubu-jjigae, obibimbap (rice with meat and vegetables) or yangnyeom (fried spicy chicken). Also ramen and vegetable pancakes.

Mercado Oriental, square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Castle of Saint George

The Mercado Oriental is open every day from 12h00 to 23h00. Very  popular, especially the weekends

Where: R. da Palma, 41
Square Martim Moniz, Mouraria Lisbon   facebook

Very friendly staff 🙂

Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas  Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-) 😉

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)

Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’ Lisbon: delicious vegan plates & vibrant area

A little bit tucked away in Lisbon’s trendy Intendente area there’s   cafe/restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’Rua dos Anjos 5 B and I love it! Not only the delicious food, but also the super friendly staff make this place really enjoyable.

Marie-Odile Coudert Antonelli & partner Gary Nairn, August 2020. Owners of nearby Bar/bistro Josephine

Cafe/Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’Lisbon & petiscos (Portuguese tapas)

Delicious petiscos ! (Portuguese tapas): peixinhos da horta (lit. little fishes from the garden)  € 4.50, sweet potato chips € 5.50.

Vibrant Lisbon area Intendente

Nowadays there’s a great atmosphere in this part of Lisbon: Intendente is a vibrant city area, with a multicultural mix of young and old, and a cool arts scene attract young people.

Restaurant/café  ‘O Gambuzino’  Lisbon Intendente area, September 2020

This restaurant serves healthy and homemade food. Everything is prepared fresh. Relaxed atmosphere with good service in an alternative spot of Lisbon.

Restaurant/café Sabor K Intende‘ (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’) Lisbon Intendente area

Our lunch: petiscos, salade with goat cheese, pasta bolognese.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende in 2014 (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’ ) Lisbon

Intendente area & lunch with Erika Reusens

Delicious vegan dish

The space looks fantastic with a cosy vintage decoration. Vegetables and fruits are from local producers. All snacks and dishes are homemade.

Restaurant/café ‘Sabor K Intende ‘ (nowadays ‘O Gambuzino’ ) & dinner with Felipe and Rob, 2015

Largo Intendente & historical area Mouraria

This restaurant is located next to the beautiful square Largo Intendente, in the historical area Mouraria. For several years a place to avoid, in recent years this area is grown into a trendy place with many new cafe’s, bars and restaurants.

Healthy & delicious!

Restaurant ‘O Gambuzino’ , Rua dos Anjoa 5 B, Intendente area, Lisbon

Facebook              Metro: Intendente

Terrace Restaurant ‘Sabor K Intende’ Lisbon, 2014

Nearby square Intendente Lisbon; Joana Vasconcelos designed the small ‘park’ with ‘ love seats’

Much more about area Intendente….

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 🙁

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 .

Facebook 

YouTube:  Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares  (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria 🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau lunch (almoço) has a fixed price of 35 € per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere 🙂
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb) (!)
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (25 ).  🙂
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

Facebook

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: Pedro & Dina

Cozy terrace in a courtyard . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).

Very friendly owners​!  🙂

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: dish of the day (6.50 euro)

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Bill for 3 persons 27 euro

Grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno (& bakery Doce Mila) area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant Beco do Forno is open every day from 10:00 – 16:00 and from 19:00 till 21:30. Closed on Sunday

Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

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Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

€ 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes € 5,50 –  € 7,50. Rice € 1.50. Bottle of water € 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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Lisbon at Christmas time, students, beggers, traditions & Xmas lingerie

Already in October Lisbon is busy decorating the streets and the trees. Thousands of lovely colourful Christmas lights decorate the city.

Lisbon Chirstmas lights church in Mouraria near Praca Martim Moniz

Mouraria, in December, church near Praça Martim Moniz, December 2015

Video Lisbon at Christmas time 2018 (Portugal Cool)

A Lisbon shop in December & Xmas lingerie

Children’s choirs sing Christmas carols (Janeiras) in the streets of Lisbon.

The Janeiras are a great tradition.

Lisbon November 23rd children choir Christmas Carols Rossio

Rossio Square, Lisbon in November, children’s choir

Groups, mostly young people, walk through the streets from house to house. With their songs, they wish all residents a good and healthy New Year.

Lisbon, Christmas tree 2017

At the night of December 31, thousands of people gather near the waterfront of the Tagus River at Praça do Comércio, to welcome the new year.

More: Time Out

Christmas time in Lisbon students try to sing and ask or money

Tradition:

students (try to 😉   ) sing a Christmas Carol in the streets and ask for money..

Lisbon Christmas 2008 begging people

A woman, also dressed in black, is asking for money too…..

…..and there’s a lot of poor people begging on the streets of Lisbon, not only at Christmas time….

Lisbon Christmas lights Praca dom Pedro IV Rossio

Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio), Christmas decoration and beautiful ‘wave’ pavement

On Christmas Eve , December 24, mosts restaurants are closed from lunchtime.

Families gather around the Christmas tree. Many attend the Midnight Mass (Missa do Galo). After mass they gather around the table and have supper.

Firework Lisbon

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon December 31, 2017

December 31, in the best of Portuguese traditions, a shower of light and colour will flood Lisbon’s most famous square, Praça do Comércio, with a fireworks display to the sound of the twelve gongs.

Fireworks YouTube 2018

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon. December 2019. Instagram video Lisboalive Christmas tree

Picture: Josephine Lucassen, professional tourist guide 

New Years Eve: From 22:00 there’s a big stage  at this square,there’re live concerts with famous Portuguese names and plenty of entertainment. According to the Portuguese tradition, twelve wishes are made to the sound of the twelve bell tolls, toasting with champaign to the new year.

Also in Parque das Nações there is a fireworks show near the river.

Traditional Portuguese New Years cake ( Bolo Rei). Picture: Britta Frahm

Feliz Natal! Traditional is the Bolo Rei (Kings’ cake). This fruitcake is a typically New Years cake, but is becoming popular during Christmas Holidays. In the cake there are two surprises: one is a little present, the other one is not welcomed: a raw broad bean. Whoever gets this bean has to buy (or prepare) the Bolo Rei in the coming year.

Feliz Natal: Merry Christmas!

Portuguese ‘Farturas can be filled with flavoured jelly ( strawberry, chocolate). Very popular and delicious  🙂

Farturas (picture: Wikipedia).

HAPPY NEW YEAR! FELIZ ANO NOVO!

Recipe

Lisbon at Christmas time, 2009

Tram 28 Lisbon Martim Moniz: long lines, best stops & pickpockets

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00-18:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol

Famous viewpoint & tourist attraction,  on the background Museum of Decorative Arts, really worth a visit!

Starting point tram 28, 2018

Square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Pickpockets, take care!

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care! Leave your bag in the hotel/apartment, just take some money with you in your pocket !

Open air elevator square Martim Moniz near starting point tram 28

Open air elevator connecting Martim Moniz square to the streets around St George Castle

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased since a few years, which means tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
Starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28, square Praça Martim Moniz 

All stops vintage tram 28

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Tram 28 , Lisbon