Popular restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ Lisbon: delicious typical Portuguese food & fado history

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, you’ll find Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’,  Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and a very informal atmosphere . One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon in June

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon kitchen

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgílio Oliveira, the chef, preparing my lunch.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meia dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon November ’13: lunch Dutch ladies

We enjoyed the menu of the day including duck with rice and steak with a coffee sauce with garlic, 2 bottles of the restaurant’s tasty red house wine (Lisbon region). Total price for 9 persons (in 2013) : 110:50 euro.

Ze da Mouraria dec 16 2015 dameslunch

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December ’15: lunch with Dutch friends

We enjoyed Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) delicious! Jolanda, Liesbeth, Josephine, Margriet, Hendriktje, Gezina and Feikje. Bill including wine (8 persons): around 150 euro.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon street2

Mouraria , Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins has begun recently.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon meat Picanha

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 16. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood

Mouraria, very old historical part of Lisbon

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood fado Severa

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

Ze da Mouraria Lisbon December 16 dames lunch straatje

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street.

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards
Lisbon restaurant Ze da Mouraria fado pictures
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff

SNOB, restaurant in Lisbon’s Bairro Alto for the best steak in town: the bife à SNOB & a favorite place by locals

In Bairro Alto, near Principe Real square, you will find bar/restaurant SNOB.

Restaurant SNOB Lisbon Rua do Seculo 178

Restaurant ‘SNOB’ Rua do Seculo 178 , Lisbon

Ring the doorbell

If you are looking for this restaurant, don’t walk away thinking it’s closed. You have to ring the doorbell, like in many other Portuguese places. ‘SNOB’ is not a club, however. The reason for the closed doors is that the owners want to welcome you personally. Many foreigners are unaware of this and miss out on a great experience!

SNOB restaurant is a favourite of politicians, journalists, actors and artists. The restaurant is decorated elegantly in a British sixties style.

SNOB-Restaurant-Lisbon-Bairro Alto

Bar/restaurant SNOB Lisbon

The traditional Portuguese kitchen serves the best steak in town (according to many experts): the bife à SNOB. We can recommend the carne estufada (beef stew) and the feijoada a transmontana (a traditional dish of beans and pig meat).

SNOB-Restaurant-Lisbon-Bairro Alto-Owner

Bar/restaurant SNOB Lisbon: senhor Albina Oliveira

Clock without hands

Senhor Albina Oliveira and his brother are the proud owners for already 43 years. And they have every right to be proud to! The restaurant is open every day of the year, except December 24. The clock in this restaurant is famous, because it doesn’t have any hands. In other words: time is completely unimportant when you are enjoying a good meal…

Klok-SNOB-Restaurant-Bairro Alto-Lisbon

Restaurant ‘SNOB’ Rua do Seculo 178 , Lisbon.

Website

How to prepare a Caldeirada (fish stew), a traditional Portuguese recipe & fish market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon

A caldeirada, a traditional Portuguese fish stew, can consist of seafood (caldeirada de marisco), salted codfish (caldeirada de bacalhao) or any fish of your choice.

We’ll concentrate on making a ‘caldeirada de peixe (plain fish) and we’ll use some nice fresh douradas. As we cook for 4 persons we’ll take 4 large douradas, or 8 smaller ones.

Mercado da Ribeira fresh fish2

When actually cooking in Lisbon go out to the big market (near to Lisbon’s major railway station and ferry terminal Cais do Sodré )Mercado da Ribeira . A kilo of douradas shouldn’t cost more then 7/8 euros, depending on the quality. Look for fish with shiny eyes and gills that are still red on the inside.

Other ingredients you need:

  • 4 large potatoes
  • 4 cloves of garlic
  • 1 large onion
  • 3 large tomatos
  • 1 red and 1 greene pepper
  • Olive oil
  • White wine
  • Sea salt
  • Coriander

Preparation

Take a large pot, cut the fish into big lumps (including the heads, tails and bones, don’t throw away the good parts). Cut the potatoes, tomatoes, garlic and onions into thin slices, cut the peppers into cubes.

Drizzle some olive oil in the pan and start ‘building up’ the caldeirada. Place the slices of potatoes in the pot, the slices of tomato, the peppers, garlic and onion and finally a third of the fish, some sea salt and coriander. Then start with the second layer, repeating the entire process untill all ingredients are used up. Top with some extra sea salt, coriander, olive oil and white wine.

Don’t save on the olive oil, cooking the caldeirada in oil gives it the rich typical taste.

Place the (closed) pot on a low fire, and let the caldeirada simmer ‘till all the ingredients are cooked (about 45 minutes/ one hour). Serve with bread olives and ice cold ‘vinho verde’ or white wine.

Caldeirada de peixe portugese fish stew