Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: from fresh fish to funeral flowers & 750 seats gastronomical area

Near the Cais do Sodre train station, on the other side of the road, you will see the beautiful building of the Mercado da Ribeira (market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome. Worth a visit!

Mercado da Ribeira

Market Mercado da Ribeira, near the river Tejo, Lisbon

Market: open daily 05:00 – 14:00. Closed on Sundays. Address: Avenida 24 de Julho Lisbon.

Mercado Da Ribeira overview market

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon

The cities biggest open food market is selling everything: from inky octopus and fresh seafood to fabulous fruit, from real Portugese products like ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body…..   :-(

Mercado da Ribeiro Lisbon funeral flowers

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: funeral flowers

This is Lisbon’s cheapest market. The seafood forms a large part of the Portuguese cuisine with 1001 ways to cook it. Bacalhau is the Portuguese name for cod, a very popular fish, so much that they have a different bacalhau recipe for each day of the year!

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon: every day fresh fish

There really is something to find for everyone  :-(

Looking for an authentic apartment in the historical center of Lisbon (short term rentals)? My 3 bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely private patio (30 m2)

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon June 2014 Pig

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon

In 2007 the market celebrated a 125 year of existence: beautiful pictures are on the walls from fish sellers (varinas) of the Ribeira Market from a hundred years ago, when the fishermen moored their ship here to sell the fresh fish.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Varinas

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish seller (varina, year: 1900)

On Sunday mornings there is a Collectors fair from 09:00-14:00, like coins and stamps. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy ‘cultural’ centre. It sells locally produced items such as port and honey, and handicrafts.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out gastronomical area Gal

Next to the food market: TIME OUT foodhall & gastronomical area representing the best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon

The area gathers about 30 spaces, providing around 750 seats. Where you used to go only for fresh fruit and vegetables, now you have some of the best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon represented. The idea is simple: you grab the food and drinks from one or several restaurants of your choice (not necessarily the same as your family and friends), and go sit in the food court where you’ll be able to interact with everyone there.

Mercado da Ribeira (River Market) Lisbon: Time Out magazine food pavilion

Traditional Portuguese sandwiches & nails

Did you ever try a traditional Portuguese sandwich like the Prego? or a Bifana (pork)?  a Prego is the most popular and incredible garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)   with mustard or piri-piri)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Food Hall: Portuguese petiscos (tapas)

Petiscos (Portuguese tapas)

Small plate dishes are called petiscos in Portugal, so basically the same as Spanish tapas. (More….  ). Don’t say this to the Portuguese, the Spanish invasion (1762) is still fresh in their memory…. ;-)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015 atum

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon & petiscos (tapas)

Cozinha da Felicidade (petiscos a portuguesa):

Atum com batata doce (tuna and sweet potatoes) 9.50 euro, agua sem gas (water) 1.50 euro

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out restaurant terrace

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon restaurant: fresh seafood

Restaurants and terraces outside the market

Also new are the restaurants outside the old market: we enjoyed fresh Atlantic seafood and a delicious Portuguese wine.

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon new 2014 restaurants terrace

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: restaurants with terraces

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with wonderful patio

‘Time Out’ Food Hall: Gastronomical area near the market hall
Opened May 18 2014.
Opening hours: Sunday to Wednesday 10am to midnight; Thursday to Saturday 10am to 2pm

Thanks to  Thijs Verhoeven

Lisbon LX FACTORY: 2nd hand, hippie chic market, Arts center & cool restaurants

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon & restaurants in summertime

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history. More….

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly open air market

Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Every Sunday an open air market is held, selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube Sunday LX market

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon: several great restaurants & affordable prices

Lively and exciting cultural area full of art studios, bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open.

A cool hangout zone!

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. read  slowly, website with a virtual tour) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Fleamarket Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao’ Lisbon: good priced Portuguese food & sunny terrace

After browsing Lisbon’s famous flea market  Feira da Ladra, (early in the morning you can find the best bargains), it’s a good idea to drink a coffee/beer or enjoy a lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao´, (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ .

Terrace cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’  Lisbon

Legendary fleamarket Lisbon

From the terrace you can see a part of Lisbon’s legendary fleamarket, and the Pantheon, in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

This popular restaurant serves real Portugese food for a good price (less than 15 euro).

Lisbon restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra terrace

Restaurant O Panteao de Santa Clara’ near the legendary flea market

Former palace & robbery

The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.

Lisbon Restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food for a good price

If you are not too hungry ask for “meia dose” (half serving). Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food. Price: less than 15 €. From the restaurant you can see the dome of  The Pantheon.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon January ’17

Ths place is one of my favorites. Our lunch (almoço):

Gambas com alho (prawns with garlic) € 9.50, copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1.00. Caril de frango (chicken curry) € 6.90. Agua (small bottle of water) € 1.10, espresso/cafe € 0.80

It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the fleamarket, or a quick nap 😉

Lisbon Feira da Ladra man asleep near restaurant O Panteao

Near the restaurant: legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that ‘fell of a lorry’, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first

Lisbon Feira da Ladra owners restaurant O Panteao

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Restaurant owners Armando Pereira Antunes, his wife Maria Guilherina and the very friendly waiter Celso. Campo Santa Clara 146-A, Lisbon , easy to reach with the legendary tram 28, a ´must do´ Lisbon attraction

The former palace near the fleamarket Lisbon

Looking for a nice place to stay in Lisbon?

My authentic 3 bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (short term rentals)

Restaurant/cafe ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais near Lisbon: lovely roof terrace, healthy food & Dutch owner Anna

The ‘House of Wonders’ is really worth a visit in Cascais.  This unique place is easy to find in the center, close to the beach. Easy to reach from Lisbon (ca. 30 min. by train)

Roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ in Cascais: excellent relaxing place!

The lovely roof terrace with comfortable cushions is situated on the top of the beautiful building. Even in wintertime when the weather is good you can sit here and enjoy the fabulous bayview and the sunset.

Harbour- and seaview from roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais

Anna De Bruin is from Dutch origin and owner of “House of Wonders” in Cascais. “I lived 20 years in Africa and South America, where I launched the 1st collection of recycled boat furniture in the Caribbean”.

Cafe Gallery ‘House of Wonders’ owner Anna Catharina de Bruin

Anna: ” I chose Portugal to live because this country is very human and very authentic. It’s a mix between Europe and Africa, where many people are connected to this continent and in spite of the crisis they are positive, like me”.

First floor cafe the “House of Wonders” Cascais, December 2012

You can enjoy a range of home cooked food from the cafe. It is not a vegetarian restaurant but there are good options available. The menu often offer home made soup, quiches, pies and very tasty salads.

Snack with presunto (traditional Portuguese ham)

The food is fantastic and also the very friendly staff! Prices are fair, like a quiche and salad (€ 7.50), vegetable soup (€ 3.50) and a glass of good Portuguese white wine (€3.75).

First floor cafe & art gallery the “House of Wonders” Cascais

The first floor cafe is also an art gallery and there are beautiful African artifacts for sale, mainly handmade. I met a nice lady from Boston: Lynn Kenney (picture). If you are traveling alone the “House of Wonders’ is a cozy place to meet other people from around the world.

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais: Bernardo and Anna

Anna: “This project was my dream! I opened the “House of Wonders” in Cascais around 3 years ago – a beautiful space, very cozy. A unique concept that features furniture and decorative pieces in natural wood, made from old dhowns – abandoned boats from the beaches of the Swahili coast – Kenya, Tanzania and Mozambique.

Ground floor “House of Wonders” Cascais: beautiful recycled boat furniture from Africa

Cascais is easy to reach by train from Lisbon’s station Cais do Sodré (around 30 minutes). More about Cascais

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais

Cafe Galeria House of Wonders Cascais: Largo da Misericordia  in the historic center of Cascais, Portugal. Phone (00351) 91 170 2428.

Facebook . Free WiFi.

House of Wonders Cascais roofterrace oct 13

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais October 2013

House of Wonders rooftop terrace Cascais January 2016

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais , January 2016

Cascais: famous beach vacation spot, easily reached from Lisbon & House of Wonders

Cascais is a famous vacation spot in Portugal by the sea quite close to Lisbon (about 25 km; 30 minutes by train, 15-20 minutes by car). Great beaches, and a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available.

Cascais in summertime , Rua Direita

Cascais (more pictures and wiki info) is a pleasant mix of history, tourism and local life. Once a small fishing village, nowadays packed with elegant boutiques, luxury hotels and restaurants. But still many small colourful fishing boats bobbing up and down in the water in front of the village’s sea front. Fresh fish every day! 🙂

Fishing boats in the bay of Cascais, Portugal: Praia dos Pescadores

Cascais is situated on the north side of the mouth of the River Tejo which flows through the Portuguese capital, Lisbon. Cascais’ popularity dates from 1870, when King Luís I decided to convert the 17th century Citadela here into his summer residence.

Cascais, very popular place for tourists: Rua Direita

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists!  What a lovely design, you feel like you’re walking  on waves like Jesus did 😉 . Cascais is a popular vacation spot for both Portuguese and foreign tourists, with a small city center. The shops are rich and varied.

Terrace restaurant, cafe & bar ‘O Poéta’ Cascais

Agressive waiters on this square try to entice you to eat in their restaurant.


Football lovers can watch the matches at this square: huge screens are strategically placed outside and inside the restaurants.

My favorite restaurant in Cascais is House of Wonders, delicious vegetarian food , Largo da Misericordia  

Cascais beach & a lazy Sunday afternoon in September

This beach is only five mins walking distance from restaurant ‘O Poéta’ . But there’s much more to find in Cascais and the Estoril coast, like a vibrant nightlife and a rich cultural life.

Cascais in September

There’s a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available, free bike-rental for tourists, and the nearby (5 km, easily accessible by bus or by train) popular Guincho beach is one of the best windsurfing beaches in Europe. Strong northern winds are predominant during summer time (June–August) as well as smaller north-west swells, making this beach ideal for windsurfing and kitesurfing.

YouTube movie Graham goes Guincho

Cascais: Museum Conde Castro Guimarães

This Municipal Museum is near by the sea and it keeps a very original architecture because its aim is to promote art. The palace is from 19th century and it was property of Manuel Castro Guimarães (a Portuguese Count from Cascais). MORE

How to get there from Lisbon?

Lisbon, train to Cascais

Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon by train: ‘Linha de Cascais’ (name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) from Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, ferry and trainstation. Return ticket: around 5 euro.

Short term rentals in Lisbon: my 100 m2 authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in Mouraria (short term rentals):

Cascais & one of the small beaches

Bacalhau (codfish, a must-try!), Portugal’s dried faithful friend & luxury shop Manteigaria Silva Lisbon

The Portuguese have a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).

Fish bacalhau codfish Manteigaria Silva

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

365 different ways to prepare codfish

When you stay in Lisbon or in the wonderful country Portugal, a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!


Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

The smell of dried and salted bacalhau is odd and penetrating……pfffffff… but the taste is absolutely delicious when cooked!

Bacalhau traditional dish in Portugal

Bacaolada, traditional Portuguese bacalhau dish.

Bacalhau deserves a good wine: green (Vinho Verde) or mature wines, from Alentejo, Dão or Douro.


For at least 500 years ago the Portuguese learned how to salt cod at sea and sun-dry it. It keeps for many months this way without refrigeration. And then it requires being soaked for 24 hours in changes of water before being used to prepare a dish. The soaking reconstitutes the fish and gets rid of the excessive salt also. Even today, where refrigeration isn’t a problem, the Portuguese have not lost their love for bacalhau. Dishes based on this main ingredient are sure to be a part of most holiday and other celebrations. It’s a staple of the Portuguese diet and you’ll find it prepared in all Portuguese homes and (cheap) restaurants.

One of the reasons for the popularity of bacalhau in Portugal and other catholic countries, was because of the many days on which the Church forbade the eating of meat.

Bacalhau a braz

Very popular: ‘bacalhau à brás’, made from thin strips of cod mixed with onions, and thin strips of potatoes bound by eggs.

Codfish Gomes de sa

Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, cooked in a casserole with thinly sliced potatoes and onions,  garnished with hard-boiled eggs and black olives.

This recipe was invented by Jose Luis Gomes de Sá  Jr., the son of a rich nineteenth century merchant (apparently he dealt in cod) in Porto. The family fortune dwindled and the son had to find a job at the famous restaurant Lisbonense in downtown Porto. It was there that he created the now well known recipe.

Pasteis de Bacalhau

Besides: Pastéis de Bacalhau (codfish pastry), croquetes.

A delicacy and a good idea with a cold glass of Portuguese white wine or beer on tap(imperial)!

Lisbons’ legendary flea market Feira da Ladra & Cristiano Ronaldo’s sexy underwear

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama at Campo de Santa Clara , is Lisbons legendary flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. More or less it means ‘market of thieves’. You should take this quite literally and keep an eye on your wallet .

Feira de Ladra 5

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that fell of a lorry, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first.

Lisbon Shopping Feira da Ladra

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price. It’s part of the game and if you don’t you’ll pay far too much. The market is held every Tuesday and Saturday, from dawn to dusk.

Lisbon Shopping Feira da Ladra woman

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

This nice Portuguese lady speaks French and English. Good stuff!

Feira da Ladra August trendy designer

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Alberto Gourgel (with white cap), designer.

Dogs on Feira de Ladra Lisbon flea market

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

December in Lisbon: 18 degrees and these dogs wear hand-knitted sweaters 😉 More about Dogs in Lisbon


‘This one is Ronaldo’s’  and ‘this one is Eusebio’s’.

Cristiano Ronaldo & underwear

Maybe Portugal’s famous soccer star and sexy sportsman Cristiano Ronaldo has swapped his hotpants here for something more erotical than Armani’s underwear 😉

Feira da Ladra Lisbon Michael Jackson March10

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Michael Jackson‘s bestselling album of all time, ‘Thriller’. Price 50 euro, but you can always try to negotiate.

Feira da Ladra legendary market Lisbon Michael Jackson thriller album

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon:

Fleamarket with lots of second hand stuff: it’s always fun to stroll around 🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon Josephine Lucassen & children February 2016

Friend and tourist guide Josephine Lucassen & children Frederico and Alicia, February 2016

For a small fee anyone who wants can offer his stuff on this market.

Entrance fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

Fleamarket easy to reach by tram 28

The best way to enter Feira de Ladra is through the arch Arco de São Vicente where tram 28 stops.

Feira de Ladra 6

Feira da Ladra and the nearby National Pantheon

Important Portugese personalities are buried in the National Pantheon , like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Short term rental, 10 minutes walk from this market in historical area Mouraria: my 3 bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio (30 m2)

Vizinho David cafe Feira da Ladra

Popular restaurant with a sunny terrace near the fleamarket ‘O Panteao’ : cheap and good!

Famous Lisbon Cannery store ‘Conserveira de Lisboa’: Portuguese canned fish & nostalgic power

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store) has been covered in many newspapers, tv-programs and on the internet, never paid for any promotion but is listed by many touristic guides. Here hundreds of colorful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish are stored. It’s been open for 80 years.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria de Jesus Silva

Maria de Jesus Silva, Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

The shop opened in 1930 under the name ‘Mercearia do Minho’and changed it’s name to Conserveira de Lisboa in 1942. In the beginning days the company sold all kinds of alimentation, concentrating on canned foods.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiroa Conserveira de Lisboa canned fish shop Luís Vieira

Luís Vieira,Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In 1942 the company applied for the registration of the first two brands of conserves: TRICANA and PRATA DO MAR. Tricana was registered in 1948 and Prata do Mar in 1956.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa5

Macquerel (filetes de cavala), tummy (atum), squid (polvo) and cod (bacalhau).

During the second world war the industry of conserved fish products developed rapidly and it helped the company to evolve quickly, reaching it’s peak with the colonial war in ’74. After this period, the conserves market shrinked steadily, frozen food became a more common way of conservation.


Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Confronted with this perspective of a further declining market, the Conserveira chose to remain operating on this niche market and offer only quality products. This way the shop also survived the aggressive low prices by the supermarkets.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Manuela Preira

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Two nice ladies in the shop are wrapping the various preserves: Manuela Pereira….

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria Manuela Neves

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

…..and Maria Manuela Henriques Nunes

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa no plastic bags

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

I bought 4 cans: 2 fillets macquerel (€ 4,54) and 2 tummy fillets (€ 3,63). Happily no plastic bags! If you like you can write a nice note in the guest book.

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa guestbook

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In June 2004 Armando Jose Cabral Ferreira and Regina Maria da Silva Monteiro Baptista Cabral Ferreira became the owners of the shop.

Famous cannery shop Conserveira de Lisboa street

Conserveira de Lisboa, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34 (website).

E-mail address:

Telephone: (351) 218 871 058. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros means ‘street of the cod fish sellers’……). More.about this street..


Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Designer Sebastião Saraiva Lobo in Lisbon, cockroaches & Art Nouveau style atelier

UPDATE 2017:  Sebastião’s studio has moved. More information 

If you visit Lisbon it’s a nice idea to walk up the little hill from Praça Martim Moniz to the famous castle (Castelo São Jorge) . In a street called Calçada de Santo André  nr. 15 you will see an atelier on the right side with a beautiful façade in Portuguese Art Nouveau style.

Lisbon designer Sebastião Saraiva Lobo & his atelier in beautiful Art Nouveau style

Here you can find designer Sebastião Saraiva Lobo, 19 years old, at work in his atelier. Sebastião: ‘ This place is amazing! I was looking around to find my own atelier in Lisbon, because I created wire designs in my bedroom at home but the place was soon too small…..and then I found this, it’s  just like a dream….!

Lisbon designer Sebastião Saraiva Lobo at work in his atelier, Calçada de Santo André 15, Lisbon

Sebastião: ‘ two years ago the owner of this jewelry store, signor Barata, passed away. This name is quite common in Portugal, but it means cockroach 😉  . The place has a long history, around 80 years ago it was a workshop where watches and clocks were made and repaired, and then signor Barata bought the entire building, because he loved the Art Nouveau façade. Now his son owns the atelier, I could rent it for a nice price including the use of all the tools his father used.

Designer Sebastião Saraiva Lobo in Lisbon & a ring with Christmas balls, created from brass and silver

Signor Barata was a very creative man and he was the private jeweler of Portugal’s dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, president of the Council of Ministers of Portugal from 1932 to 1968. In the shop there’s still a book with beautiful drawings and designs of fine and stunning jewelry creations.

Beautiful drawing of a tiara design in the book of sr. Barata, former owner of the jewelry store

Sebastião:  ”When I was young I always wanted to become an archaeologist , but at the age of 12 I started to create wire designs . And the passion for jewelery was always there, as far as I can remember I felt attracted to windows filled with beautiful designs.

Designer Sebastião Saraiva Lobo’s atelier in Lisbon: beautiful Art Nouveau style

“These types of Art Nouveau buildings were very popular and especially built for jewelry stores, because the front is made entirely of iron and therefore not very attractive to burglars. As far as I know this is still the only place in Lisbon with the tradition to create and to sell jewelry”

Sebastião Saraiva Lobo’s wire design INSECT (15 euro):  patio of my apartment in Lisbon (short term rentals)

In the late 19th to early 20th centuries, Art Nouveau was a trendy off-shoot of the Arts & Crafts movement. It is characterized by organic shapes found in nature. Art Nouveau started in Paris, and quickly spread across Europe, with each country incorporating the style within their traditional architecture. In Portugal, Art Nouveau (Arte Novo) found a home largely in Lisbon, Porto and Aveiro. The Art Nouveau was late and short-lived in Portugal. Began around the year 1905 and ended 15 years later in 1920.

Designer Sebastião Saraiva Lobo , Calçada de Santo André  nr. 15 in Lisbon. E-mail:, tel. 00351 910641549.

Window dressing atelier Sebastião Saraiva Lobo Lisbon, wire designcockroaches 😉


Shop ‘Santos Ofícios’ Lisbon: exclusively dedicated to Portuguese Folk Art

In 1995, three friends gathered efforts and determination to build a project which was at that time a pioneering but also a risky one: the opening of a place exclusively dedicated to the promotion of the Portuguese Folk Art. They named it Santos Ofícios’ . This building was constructed after the big earthquake in 1755.

Portuguese traditional handicraft Santos Oficios

Shop ‘Santos Ofícios’ Lisbon

The interior of ‘Santos Ofícios‘ was submitted to a very careful work of reconstruction, which made possible to show arches of an old brick that draw a cross and also to preserve an entire wall of tiles made at that time in the ‘Rato’ factory.

Portuguese traditional handicraft shop Santos Oficios inside2

Shop ‘Santos Ofícios’ Lisbon

Inside this historical place handworks made of different materials are displayed: stone, clay, metal, corn, wood,  cork, wool, cotton, paper, jute, straw…. Traveling all over the country, from the North to the South the owners of the shop, mrs. Louisa Cruz and mr. Homero Cardoso, visited hidden villages and they have been able to meet dozens and dozens of folk artists.

Portuguese traditional handicraft shop Santos Oficios inside5

Shop ‘Santos Ofícios’ Lisbon

Not only the famous artists like Irmãs Flores and the descendants of Rosa Ramalho, Mistério and Ana Baraca, but also those who have never left their villages and were completely unknown. Website shop ‘Santos Ofícios‘ with more art items including a list of  Portuguese folk artists.

Portuguese traditional handicraft shop Santos Oficios inside1

Unfortunately some folk artists are already deceased and couldn’t leave followers, but thanks to a continous work of research the owners of Santos Ofícios have been able to meet and divulge other ones. In this branch of the Portuguese culture – the Folk Art – that is displayed with dignity in ‘Santos Ofícios’, the only place in Lisbon that insists on keeping, in this area, a standard of rigour intimately tied to the concept of ‘tradition’.

Portuguese traditional handicraft shop Santos Oficios Rua da Madalena

Shop ‘Santos Ofícios‘ Lisbon

Open 10 am to 8 pm daily, except on Sunday. Website shop ‘Santos Ofícios‘ with more art items including a list of  Portuguese folk artists.

Rua da Madalena no. 87, Lisbon, opposite Madalena church

Portuguese traditional handicraft shop Santos Oficios Rua da Madalena opposite Santa Fe Church

Lisbon & historical red tram