Lisbon at Christmas time, students, beggers, traditions & Xmas lingerie

Already in October Lisbon is busy decorating the streets and trees. Thousands of colourful Christmas lights decorate the city.  Christmas light restrictions across Portugal

November 2022: Praça Luis de Camões

Nowadays conventional lights were replaced by LED bulbs to reduce energy consumption.

Christmas lights in Lisbon in December

Planning to see Christmas lights in Lisbon?

Christmas lights in Lisbon will be switched on November 30th and will remain on until January 6 with a reduction in the daily operating hours.

More info: The Portugal News

Lisbon Chirstmas lights church in Mouraria near Praca Martim Moniz

Lisbon, historical area Mouraria, in December

Church near Praça Martim Moniz

A Lisbon shop in December & Xmas lingerie

Children’s choirs sing Christmas carols (Janeiras) in the streets of Lisbon.

The Janeiras are a great tradition.

Lisbon November 23rd children choir Christmas Carols Rossio

Rossio Square, Lisbon in November, children’s choir

Groups, mostly young people, walk through the streets from house to house. With their songs, they wish all residents a good and healthy New Year.

Lisbon, Christmas tree 2017

At the night of December 31, thousands of people gather near the waterfront of the Tagus River at Praça do Comércio, to welcome the new year.

More: Time Out

Christmas time in Lisbon students try to sing and ask or money

Tradition:

students (try to 😉   ) sing a Christmas Carol in the streets and ask for money..

Lisbon Christmas 2008 begging people

A woman, also dressed in black, is asking for money too…..

…..and there’s a lot of poor people begging on the streets of Lisbon, not only at Christmas time….

Lisbon Christmas lights Praca dom Pedro IV Rossio

Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio), Christmas decoration and beautiful ‘wave’ pavement

On Christmas Eve , December 24, mosts restaurants are closed from lunchtime.

Families gather around the Christmas tree. Many attend the Midnight Mass (Missa do Galo). After mass they gather around the table and have supper.

Firework Lisbon

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon December 31, 2017

December 31, in the best of Portuguese traditions, a shower of light and colour will flood Lisbon’s most famous square, Praça do Comércio, with a fireworks display to the sound of the twelve gongs.

Fireworks YouTube 2018

Praça do Comércio, Lisbon. December 2019.

Picture: Josephine Lucassen, professional tourist guide 

New Years Eve: From 22:00 there’s a big stage  at this square,there’re live concerts with famous Portuguese names and plenty of entertainment. According to the Portuguese tradition, twelve wishes are made to the sound of the twelve bell tolls, toasting with champaign to the new year.

Also in Parque das Nações there is a fireworks show near the river.

Traditional Portuguese New Years cake ( Bolo Rei). Picture: Britta Frahm

Feliz Natal! Traditional is the Bolo Rei (Kings’ cake). This fruitcake is a typically New Years cake, but is becoming popular during Christmas Holidays. In the cake there are two surprises: one is a little present, the other one is not welcomed: a raw broad bean. Whoever gets this bean has to buy (or prepare) the Bolo Rei in the coming year.

Feliz Natal: Merry Christmas!

Portuguese ‘Farturas can be filled with flavoured jelly ( strawberry, chocolate). Very popular and delicious  🙂

Farturas (picture: Wikipedia).

HAPPY NEW YEAR! FELIZ ANO NOVO!

Recipe

Lisbon & autumn: smell of roasted chestnuts & St. Martin’s Day traditions

The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.

Lisbon city centre in autumn

Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon

St. Martin’s Day is celebrated on November 11

It’s called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer).

St. Martin’s Day dinner at home with friends, November 2018

The Portuguese celebrate St. Martin’s Day with jeropiga (a traditional delicious sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

Tram Lisbon Feliz Natal and roasted chestnuts

Rossio, Lisbon in December & Christmas trams

Traditions

On St. Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire.

How to roast chestnuts in the oven

Roasted chestnuts

Chestnuts are roasted, traditional alcoholic drinks are served, like água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent).

Chestnuts and Jeropiga

Tradition: chestnuts and jeropiga

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chiado chestnuts

Largo do Chiado, Lisbon

More….

Rooftop cafe 8th floor POLLUX Lisbon: scenic views & delicious lunch

Many years ago I discovered a small cafe on the 8th floor of a huge department store in Lisbon, Pollux : good coffee (bica), a pastel de nata .. and stunning city views!

Restaurant & bar Pollux Terrace in Lisbon: this view will never be boring! 🙂

8th floor classic department store Pollux

In 2017 restaurant & bar LESS was opened, on the 8th floor of department store Pollux (9 floors, 5.000 m2), founded in 1936, offering typical Portuguese luxury items for home decoration and household goods.

Restaurant & bar POLLUX Terrace  in Lisbon: legendary Santa Justa Lift
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Makeover in 2017
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The terrace, offering views of the legendary Santa Justa lift and the ruins of the Convento do Carmo, (Carmo Convent) used to have a small cafe with plastic tables (a hidden gem..)
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Basic snacks, soups and coffees were served nearby products for sale in the store such as plastic flowers, garden chairs and camping tables.
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Cafe/restaurant POLLUX Terrace & view river Tagus
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In September 2017 the entire 8th floor of the department store was transformed into a modern casual dining space serving delicious food (Chef: Miguel Castro Silva) .
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Restaurant POLLUX Terrace Lisbon & 8th floor September 4, 2018
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Delicious lunch with Margarethe de Vrieze.
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Restaurant & Bar POLLUX Terrace Lisbon
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Appetizer, smoked salmon tartar with horsera dish cream, soup, leek risotto with cod shavings, water & 2 glasses of house wine: 33 euro.
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Restaurant & Bar POLLUX Terrace, March 2018
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‘Are you being served?’
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BESIDES: When I entered the Pollux department store for the first time, around 16 years ago, the old-fashioned atmosphere and the (good) hierarchical service-model reminded me a little bit of the legendary British sitcom  “Are you being served?’ 😉 (YouTube), broadcasted between 1972 and 1985.
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Restaurant & Bar POLLUX Terrace Lisbon, March 2018
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The menu card is very inviting! Vega Burger on bread with potatoe chips, spices , red onions, mushrooms, onions & Port wine: very tasty!
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Restaurant & Bar POLLUX Terrace: new dining space & terrace
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POLLUX Restaurant & Bar Terraço Editorial Baixa, Lisbon
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December 5, 2018
 
The restaurant can only be reached by taking the elevator in department store Pollux: 8th floor. Rua dos Fanqueiros, 276, Lisbon.
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Restaurant & Bar Pollux Terrace Lisbon, March 2018
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Muito obrigada João and Samanta 🙂

Famous Lisbon fish cannery store ‘Conserveira de Lisboa’ & nostalgic power

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store) has been covered in many newspapers, tv-programs and on the internet, never paid for any promotion but is listed by many touristic guides.

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store) March 2021

In this little shop hundreds of colorful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish are stored. It’s been open for 80 years.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria de Jesus Silva

Maria de Jesus Silva, Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

History

The shop opened in 1930 under the name ‘Mercearia do Minho’ and changed it’s name to Conserveira de Lisboa in 1942. In the beginning days the company sold all kinds of alimentation, concentrating on canned foods.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiroa Conserveira de Lisboa canned fish shop Luís Vieira

Luís Vieira,Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In 1942 the company applied for the registration of the first two brands of conserves: TRICANA and PRATA DO MAR.

Tricana was registered in 1948 and Prata do Mar in 1956.

 

Macquerel (filetes de cavala), tummy (atum), squid (polvo) and cod (bacalhau).

During the second world war the industry of conserved fish products developed rapidly and it helped the company to evolve quickly, reaching it’s peak with the colonial war in ’74. After this period, the conserves market shrinked steadily, frozen food became a more common way of conservation.

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Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Confronted with this perspective of a further declining market, the Conserveira chose to remain operating on this niche market and offer only quality products. This way the shop also survived the aggressive low prices by the supermarkets.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Manuela Preira

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Two nice ladies in the shop are wrapping the various preserves: Manuela Pereira….

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria Manuela Neves

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

…..and Maria Manuela Henriques Nunes

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa no plastic bags

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

I bought 4 cans: 2 fillets macquerel (€ 4,54) and 2 tuna fillets (€ 3,63). Happily no plastic bags! If you like you can write a nice note in the guest book.

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa guestbook

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In June 2004 Armando Jose Cabral Ferreira and Regina Maria da Silva Monteiro Baptista Cabral Ferreira became the owners of the shop.

Famous cannery shop Conserveira de Lisboa street

Conserveira de Lisboa, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34 (website).

E-mail address: info@conserveiradelisboa.pt

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros means ‘street of the cod fish sellers’……). More.about this street..

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Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Quality Restaurant Café Martinho da Arcada Lisbon & poet Pessoa’s table

Opening in 1782, Restaurant Café Martinho da Arcada, located in the corner of the Praça do Comércio 37 near the Tagus river, is one of the oldest restaurants /cafés in Lisbon.

Lisbon Restaurante da Arcada Praca do Comercio 37

The restaurant’s terrace under the beautiful arcades, Praça do Comércio

YouTube about this square Praca do Comercio. Situated downtown, this cafe was once the ideal setting for the so called tertúlia’s‘ (café talks). Well known names from Portuguese life, such as Bocage, Amalia Rodrigues and Portugal’s most famous 20th C. poet Fernando Pessoa, were some of its usual customers.

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada Antonio Barbosa de Sousa

Owner of café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada’, senhor Antônio Barbosa de Sousa.

Portugal’s famous poet and writer Pessoa

Pessoa (1888-1935), worked and lived in the Baixa area in Lisbon, he wrote pieces of his work in this restaurant after closing time.

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada table Pessoa

Restaurant Martinho da Arcade Lisbon: Pessoa’s table is still there…

Fernando Pessoa’s favorite dish: juliana soup, cod and fried eggs with cheese. Until the autumn of 1989 the cafe was retained in the style in which Pessoa enjoyed it. Meeting him for coffee….

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada interior1

The inside dining room

These days mainly employees of the surrounding ministries and business people meet here for lunch. The staff is very friendly. Prices: not cheap, but the quality is excellent.

Lisbon Restaurante Martinho da Arcada staff

Café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada Lisbon

Beautiful antique tiles (azulejos)

Café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada’Lisbon 2016, senhor Antônio Barbosa de Sousa & my good friend Margarethe de Vrieze

In the afternoon this wonderful traditonal Portuguese place is worth a visit for tea and applepie ( 7.50 euro).

Clam stew 17.00 euro, veal medallions 18.50 euro, small bottle of Rimor  white wine euro 9.00.

The menu lists regional Portuguese cuisine; try a amijoa cataplana (clam stew)!

More about Fernando Pessoa on this website

restaurant Martinho da Arcada friendly waiter

Café/restaurant ‘Martinho da Arcada Lisbon & very friendly waiters 🙂

Restaurant Café Martinho da Arcada, located in the corner of the Praça do Comércio 37 near the Tagus river .     Website 

Open: Monday to Saturday 7am – 11pm (not open on Sundays)

Lisbon Praça do Comércio Feb 2011

Lisbon Praça do Comércio , February 2011

Are you a wine lover? You can taste a selection of fine Portuguese wines for free at Sala Ogival, also located at Praça do Comércio, Lisbon

 

Lisbon Praça do Comércio: Sunday flea, coins, (eco) handicraft market & erotic art

Do you enjoy flea market shopping? Every Sunday morning there’s a small market at Lisbon’s famous square Praça do Comércio (‘Commerce Square’) , where you can find antiques, books, collectioner’s items, vinyl music albums, stamps, coins and (eco) handicraft. In summertime this market also take place on Saturdays.

Flea market Praca do Comercio Sundays2

Sunday market at Praça do Comércio  Lisbon

This outdoor market is held every Sunday from 9am to 3pm (summer hours are 8am to 2pm) at Lisbon’s most famous square, near the Tagus river, with imposing arcades, close to the majestic Triumphal Arch (Arco do Triunfo), the gateway onto the interior of ‘downtown’ Lisbon.

Sunday flea vintage market Lisbon 3 erotic handicraft

Sunday market at Praça do Comércio  Lisbon

Carlos Lages – erotic fantasy art ‘Father of the Humanity’ : 8 euro

Sunday flea vintage handicraft market Lisbon2 eco bags

Sunday market at Praça do Comércio  Lisbon

Manuela Nunes creates hand made jewellery (website Bijutaria Artesanal) and very beautiful recycled shopping bags (10 euro)

Lisbon Sunday flea handicraft vintage market Lisbon5

Sunday market at Praça do Comércio  Lisbon

Fernando del Pretti – video on his blog with a wonderful vintage magnetic collection (from 2 euro) and 20th Century Portuguese magazines.

Sunday flea vintage handicraft market Lisbon6 Praca do Comercio Lisbon

Sunday market at Praça do Comércio  Lisbon

You can also see Fernando del Pretti’s work on Saturdays at the legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Sunday flea handicraft vintage market Lisbon1

Sunday market at Praça do Comércio  Lisbon

This outdoor market is held every Sunday from 9am to 3pm (summer hours are 8am to 2pm)

Flea market Praca do Comercio Lisbon Sundays5

Restaurant ‘Wok Oriental’ Lisbon near Santa Justa Lift & eat as much as you want

Large but cozy Asian restaurant ‘WOK Oriental’ is also a tourist attraction, like the nearby Santa Justa Lift. The food is very tasty and cheap. They serve Chinese, Japanese, and also Brazilian (picanha), Portuguese and vegetarian food. Lunch 7.95, dinner € 8,95/11,95

Restaurant Wok Oriental near Santa Justa elevator Lisbon 2011

Eat as much as you want.. 🙂

In this Asian restaurant they also serve grill, meat, seafood, soup, vegetables and salads. Choose your ingredients to be cooked in front of you and eat as much as you want. There is also a sushi and sashimi bar, and of course, spring rolls .

Santa Justa Lift Lisbon M

The famous tourist attraction Santa Justa Lift. Picture: Martijn Kramers

Famous Santa Justa Elevator

Restaurant ‘Wok Oriental‘ is located in the stairways of the extraordinary and famous Santa Justa Lift (Elevador de Santa Justa video YouTube), built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high). The Lift brings you to Largo do Carmo, one of Lisbon’s most beautiful squares.

Restaurant Wok Oriental near Santa Justa elevator Lisbon2

Owner An Lin Yang (born in China) prepares a wok dish

You can choose natural and fresh ingredients, and the chef will prepare your wok dish in a moment. Owner An Lin Yang:Between 300-400 people from all over the world visit our place every day”.

Restaurant Wok Oriental near Santa Justa elevator Lisbon3

Create your own meal

Lunch (almoço) 7.95, dinner (jantar) 8.95/11.95. Children under 6 years are charged 3 less, children under 4 years free.

Certainly good value for money!  Sobremesa (dessert) is not included in the price: a small portion of ice-cream (1.60), fresh fruit is included.

Restaurant Wok Oriental near Santa Justa elevator Lisbon4 sushi

There ‘s also a sushi and sashimi bar

You can fill your plate with various meat, shrimp, squid, and vegetables, and then take them to the next counter where they are stir-fried to your specification.

Drinks: water € 1:00, glass of wine € 1.50. Sangria (1 liter) € 6,95.  Or a pot of tea, beer or whiskey.

Restaurant Wok Oriental near Santa Justa elevator Lisbon8

Restaurant owner An Lin Yang and Yang Xue Peng

They have 8 chefs working together (from different nationalities) and 7 waiters. The staff is very friendly.

Restaurant Wok Oriental near Santa Justa elevator Lisbon my choice

My choise for lunch: a mix of vegetables, rice and feijãos,

Restaurant ”Wok Oriental‘ , Rua do Santa Justa 105 A, Lisbon. Tel: (00351) 213473181.  Open from 09:00 to 23:00, daily (also on Sundays).

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Website  

Tourists waiting for a ticket Santa Justa Lift Lisbon near Wok Restaurant

Santa Justa Lift Lisbon: tourist queue near the ticket office

Metro Station Lisbon area Baixa-Chiado: free escalators & avoid hundreds of stairs

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado is a unique and impressive subway, opened in 1998, created by architect Álvaro Siza Vieira.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado Rua do Crucifixo entrance

Metro station entrance Baixo-Chiado Lisbon, Rua do Crucifixo.

Metro station Baixo-Chiado is one of the most important transfer stations, and one of the most crowded of Lisbon.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado entrance tiles

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Beautiful white tiles are covering the station walls.

This metro station has an entrance in the Baixa city center as well as one at a much higher level in the Chiado district, linked by a series of escalators.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalator

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Instead of walking (hundreds of stairs from Baixa to Chiado), an alternative and free way is to use the escalators inside the metro station, reaching the Chiado district ca. 5 minutes later.

Of course, walking is also interesting…..  🙂

Metro Station Baixa Chiado metro lines

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

The Lisbon Metro operates from 6h30 to 01.00. Tickets: cheap 🙂

Metropolitano de Lisboa : Lisbon Metro official page.

Metro Linha Azul (blue line) Metro Linha Amarela (yellow line) Metro Linha Verde (green line) and Metro Linha Vermelha (red line).

Also including a special section on subway art of Lisbon Metro stations with stunning examples of contemporary azulejos (Portugues tiles).

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalators up to Chiado

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado

Escalators up to the Chiado district.

Metro station Largo do Chiado Pessoa

Cafe ‘A Brasileira’, Largo do Chiado, near the entrance of the Chiado metro station.

The bronze sculpture of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935),  is extremely popular. More…….

‘Shoemakers’ street Lisbon: 19th C. Art Nouveau strip club, peep shows & picanha

In the 19th century, Baixa was Lisbon’s commercial heart, with streets named according to their trades. Rua dos Sapateiros means ‘the shoemakers’ street.

Lisbon Rossio Rua dos Sapateiros1 Arco do Bandeiro

The entrance to the Rua dos Sapateiros is spanned by the decorative arch Arco do Bandeiro.

This bears the name of the wealthy sponsor Pires Bandeiro who commissioned it at the end of the 18th C.

Rua dos Sapateiros2 Art Nouveau old Cinema peep shows

Strip Club Rua dos Sapateiros Lisbon

Strip club & Art Nouveau style

Passing through the arched gateway on Rossio you see one of Lisbon’s remaining examples of Art Nouveau: this old movie house, the Animatógrafo , is a strip club nowadays. Lisbon’s earliest cinema hall opened in 1907, by brothers Ernesto and Joaquim Correia Cardoso. It has remained unaltered since then. The beautiful facade is adorned with a highly detailed Art Nouveau style, which consists of Azulejos tiled panels, which depict Edwardian styled females surrounded by fruits and flowers.

Rua dos Sapateiros: cafes, cheap traditional Portuguese restaurants & peep shows2

Rua dos Sapateiros Lisbon

It was not easy to make a picture without snapping visitors going in and out, because this beautiful house is rather popular….. 🙂

Traditional restaurants & picanha meat, ‘melt-in-your mouth’

Rua dos Sapateiros Lisbon: cheap traditional cafes, restaurants & peep shows5 Restaurant Adego Mo

Restaurant Ádega da Mo’, R. dos Sapateiros 199, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Adega da Mo‘ is  a typical Portuguese restaurant.

Almoçar (lunch): Picanha, (meat from Brazil) is generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) is much better than a steak, meltin-in-your mouth….: € 7.50

Lisbon Leitaria Camponeza22

Rua dos Sapateiros Lisbon

Another beautiful example of Portuguese Art Nouveau in this street is Leitaria ‘A Camponeza’

Rua dos Sapateiros Lisbon: cheap traditional cafes, restaurants & peep shows street

Rua dos Sapateiros, Lisbon

Lisbon at Christmas time: X-mas kitsch, a giant tree & sexy X-mas lingerie

In December, thousands of colorful lights decorate Lisbon. Portuguese people love ‘the most wonderful time of the year’, celebrating Christmas with a lot of X-mas kitsch. Everywhere you look you see blinking neon lights, Christmas markets and decorated shops.

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Rua da Prata

Rua da Prata, in December…….

If you are a Christmas hater, maybe it’s a better idea to visit this fascinating city some other time of the year 😉

Movie Christmas decoration

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Theatre Dona Maria

National Theatre Teatro Nacional Doña Maria II.

Christmas time in Lisbon is similar to everywhere else in the world, except that the decorations has a higher kitsch factor.

Lisbon Christmas 2009 sexy window dressing

Rua da Palma,

lingerie shop close to one of my favorite restaurants in Lisbon, RAMIRO

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Hermes window dressing

HermesLargo do Chiado 9.

In Portugal people really love  Christmas window dressing with animals!

Lisbon Chirstmas window dressing 2009

Of course, children love it!

Feira da Ladra alternativa recycled Nespresso cups

Creative Christmas decoration 🙂

Christmas decoration made from recycled Nespresso caps

Lisbon December 2009 Christmas and baggers

A creative idea to make some money at Christmas time……

Lisbon Christmas 2009 united colours shrinked Benetton pullovers

Benetton shop Lisbon, window dressing,  Rua Garrett

The shrinked sweaters of  Benetton  😉

Lisbon Restaurant the Temptations of Goa Jesus Maria2

Restaurant  “Tentações (Temptations) de Goa”.

Tentações de Goa”, Rua S. Pedro Mártir, nº 23. Open for lunch from 12:00, dinner from 19:00 – 00:00. Closed on Sundays and Holidays. Vegetarian friendly.

Lisbon giant Christmas tree  Praça do Comércio 

NEW YEAR: on the night of December 31, Lisbon is one big street party! Live music and a fantastic fireworks display  at the famous square Praça do Comércio will be filled on the night of December 31st with concerts by Portuguese bands . Cultural agenda Lisbon

According to the Portuguese tradition, twelve wishes are made to the sound of the twelve bell tolls, toasting with champaign to the new year.

HAPPY NEW YEAR! FELIZ ANO NOVO!