Bairro Alto | The Lisbon Connection

December 10, 2017April 15, 2021

Historic square ‘Largo do Carmo’ Lisbon: gothic ruins & bloodless military coup

Wonderful Largo do Carmo is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon! Beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!

Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017

This picturesque square is very popular, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

Lisbon Largo do Carmo1

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Springtime 2014

Lisbon square Largo do Carmo kiosk 2

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo wikipedia jacarandas

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Largo do Carmo Military Police Station

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution.

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On April 25, 1974, the day of the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

25-abril Carnation Revolution 1974 Lisbon

Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974

1974: The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) & Eurovision Song Contest

The Carnation Revolution was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup.

Largo do Carmo Lisbon & entrance Carmen Convent

Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.

More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).

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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa2

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Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755

Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno Álvares Pereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died. More information..

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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa3

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Largo do Carmo Lisbon: amazing view over Lisbon

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The famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa video), Rua do Santa Gusta, built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high), can bring you to the Carmo Square.

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Beautiful city view of Lisbon : Santa Justa Lift and Carmo Convent

From the roof terrace of Pollux, a huge warehouse, Rua dos Fanqueiros 276. There’s a pleasant roof terrace & bar/cafe : LESS

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June 24, 2017June 12, 2022

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony & street parties

Lisbon in June: wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets of the historical areas.

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, the ‘matchmaker ‘ (Santo António, June 13), Lisbon turns into a huge open air party!

June 12, party time! Historic area Mouraria Rua da Guia Lisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Santo António, Rua João do Outeiro.

Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint

Santo António (Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon.

Lisbon craziest night of the year in area Alfama, nearby Mouraria (YouTube)

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria in June, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.

June 12 in Lisbon: Adamastor, Santa Catarina near the Tagus River, a popular viewpoint & gathering place.

In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.

Lisbon, June 12, Bairro Alto area

The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘

June 12, 2011. Famous Bica funicular Lisbon, a popular tourist attraction

Partying in the small streets around the famous Bica funicular, highly valued by tourists.

A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto , possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B , Lisbon

Pimba music (songs with naughty lyrics)

On June 12 the festivities in Lisbon already start around noon, and everywhere you hear music coming out of the cafes and restaurants.

YouTube “Quero Cheirar o teu bacalhau” (by Quim Barreiros): ‘I would like to smell your codfish’ 😉 😉

Even the beggar near the cafe started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Historical area Mouraria in June: Rua da Guia, Lisbon

In the month of June all the narrow streets in Lisbon’s historical areas are packed with stalls selling sangria and beer. Everywhere there’s the sizzling aroma of grilled sardines – the traditional food of the Saint Anthony celebrations are grilled sardines – but you can also go for barbecued chicken, chouriços (sausage) or pork.

June 12 Lisbon historical area : Arraial da Mouraria, dancing in the streets

There’s lots of dancing through the night. The best thing to do is just keep going and enjoy! Throughout old Lisbon there are open air parties everywhere. The party goes on until dawn 🙂

More about Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria

Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon – pots with manjerico (basil) & small love poems

Basil & love poems

During the Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession

Yearly parade

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides.

Youtube movie Saint Anthony festivities 2011

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February 3, 2017August 11, 2021

Bizarre bar Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: 1900s style curiosities & kitsch

A ‘must-see’ when you visit Lisbon! Once an old grocery store, this 1900s style bar, 10 minutes walk from Bairro Alto ‘s nightlife is really unique!

Lisbon Paviljao Chines7 bar retaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: one of the most interesting and unusual decorated bars I’ve ever seen!

A good start to Lisbon’s nightlife. You have to ring the doorbell, like in many other Portuguese places. The reason for the closed doors is that the owners want to welcome you personally.

Erotic art: menu book bar Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

If you wish, you can buy a fine menu book with a lot of beautiful pictures and stories (20 euro) as a reminder of your visit.

Lisbon Paviljao Chines8 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines bar Lisbon

Fascinating collection of all sort of things, like lead soldiers, contemporary engravings, humorous ceramics and models of war planes.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines3

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: miniscule toy soldiers are perfectly aligned.

Walking from room to room is like going through a museum with curiosities and kitch from all over the world. It is said that only one man collected all this stuff….almost unbelievable!

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines4 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: nothing is for sale

Once sitting down at one of the beautiful tables, the choice of drinks (nothing is for sale, except the drinks and it’s a bit expensive..) is quite large: from tea, wine, cocktails to champagne.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines9 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

You can have a drink while listening to the jukebox playing classic rock songs from the 60’s and 70’s or play snooker, and then walk down to the Bairro Alto and enjoy the night..

Top 10 bars with live music in this area, Bairro Alto

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines 10 unique bar and restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon, open from 18:00 – 02:00, smoking allowed

Address: Rua Dom Pedro V 89-91, Bairro Alto. Tel: (00351)213 424 72.

Lisbon Pavilhao Chines Bar

FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/pavilhaochineslisboa

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December 27, 2010February 4, 2018

‘FlowerPower’ Lisbon: restaurant/cafe, cool flower shop & owner Carlos Filipe

One of Lisbon’s coolest flower shops, ‘FlowerPower’, is nowadays also a café/restaurant . A unique concept of healthy eating amid the hustle and bustle of Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers: the legendary Bairro Alto district.

Flower Power food and flowers Bairro Alto cafe restaurant Lisbon2

‘FlowerPower’ cafe/restaurant & vintage interior design

As soon as you enter the place you feel the relaxed atmosphere, perfect for a light meal. You can choose a dish of the day, salads, a soup, a slice of chocolate cake, sandwiches, or go for just a glass of wine or a cool glass of rosé, accompanied by Portuguese cheeses.

Flower Power food and flowers cafe restaurant Bairro Alto Lisbon 3

The cafe/restaurant with beautiful flower arrangements

Of course the café space is lovely decorated with plants. My choice for lunch: soup (sopa: creme de gourgettes) € 2; prato do dia (menu of the day) hachis parmantier € 6,50.

Flower Power food and flowers Bairro Alto Lisbon gourmet products dog Suki

Christmas time, dog Suki is always very curious…

A small area in the cafe/restaurant with gourmet products allows you to take the finest ingredients to cook at home, or take away ‘dishes of the day’ (fusion food at low cost), salads, cakes and organic juices.

Flower Power food and flowers Bairro Alto Lisbon1

‘FlowerPower’ is sitated close to the most photographed spot in Lisbon, the famous Bica funicular

It’s also nice to watch the people on the street through the open door. Tram line 28 also passes this street, highly valued by tourists. The nearby Bairro Alto disctrict is posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out.

Flower Power food and flowers Bairro Alto Lisbon Carlos Filipe owner designer artist 3

Next-door ‘FlowerPower’ shop & Carlos Filipe, owner and designer. ‘You are from Holland? I love tulips!‘

The ‘FlowerPower Food’ is an extension of one of Lisbon’s coolest flower shops with the same name, created by Carlos Filipe and João Vasconcelos for over 10 years, very well-known in Lisbon for its unique and artistic flower arrangements for all types of events. Now the huge space is split into flowers and food, and customers can buy flowers, eat in the cafe-restaurant next door or buy take-away dishes.

Also available for a private party (youtube video belly dancers), at minimum 15 people to participate)

Flower Power food and flowers Bairro Alto Lisbon dog flower shop

Dog Suki in the flower shop… ‘Natal A chegar’…. (Christmas is coming)

Carlos Filipe: “Before I came to Lisbon I lived 20 years in France (Lyon), and 5 years in Italy. I studied ‘Artes Plásticas’ (Plastic Arts) ; my atelier is in Sesimbra (30 km from Lisbon) ” . Carlos Filipe’s blog and paintings

Flower Power food and flowers Bairro Alto Lisbon street

‘FlowerPower’ Food & Flowers

Calçada do Combro, 2 (Bairro Alto). Open: Mon-Sun 10:00 to 21:00. mail@flowerpower.com.pt , tel. + (351) 213 422 381

Flower Power food and flowers Bairro Alto Lisbon flowers window dressing

Beautiful Christmas window dressing

Happy New Year! Feliz ano novo!

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April 12, 2010January 10, 2014

Luxury Hotel Bairro Alto’s roof terrace, light snacks & lovely views over Lisbon

Even if you don’t stay in Lisbon’s boutique hotel Bairro Alto , you can take the tiny golden lift up to the sixth-floor roof terrace and enjoy amazing views by having a light lunch, or just an afternoon tea or a cup of coffee.

Hotel Bairro Alto roof terrace1

March 2010, a cloudy day.. roof terrace boutique hotel Bairro Alto Lisbon

The roof terrace, giving long views over the river and the city, is very popular. The hotel is on the arty side of town, located in the ancient quarter (Bairro Alto) and Chiado, a nice traditional area and an elegant shopping district.

Hotel Bairro Alto Lisbon roof terrace2