Fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon: Maria Severa, first fadista & femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music. Good fado has its home in historical areas Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria‘, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista: ‘Maria da Severa’ .

Mourara Lisbon in June Rua do Capelao Portuguese fado guitar

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities): Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 10pm.

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria 'Casa da Maria da Severa' november 2013

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter. After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

People who like to gather here are musicians, actors, journalists and residents of surrounding neighborhoods. Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria dinner feb 14 3 Josephine e Jorge

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver) € 13,90, bacalhau (cod fish) € 16,90, bife € 15,90, and 2 bottles of red wine € 21,80.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016: 90 euro

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-)

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon: famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

Retratos do Fado – Um tributo à Mouraria. (Portraits of Fado – A tribute to Mouraria). This is a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas with a strong connection to the neighbourhood. A great idea! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in the area for 6 years.

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho (Portuguese fado singer & songwriter) & Maria da Mouraria

In summertime you can enjoy well-known fado performers in front of ‘Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, (YouTube). Film screenings, book readings and performers are the responsibility of Helder Moutinho.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

In summertime the terrace is open for drinks and petiscos (‘tapas’).

Dining from 20:00 – 02:00. Open from Wednesdays to Sundays (incl. Fado). No creditcards.  Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz.

Reservations: (00351) 96 476 60 56. Facebook    Website

Short term rentals in this neighbourhood

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, street parties, naughty lyrics & grilled sardines

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.  Festas 2018

Area Mouraria Lisbon in the month of June

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon.

In the month of June, all the streets in the historic areas in Lisbon are decorated with garlands and lights, the atmosphere is wonderful! 🙂

Lisbon, Rua dos Remédios, area Alfama June 2018  & World Championship football: viva Portugal!

Every year mid-June, the time-honoured Santo António celebrations take over the streets of Lisbon, filling them with grilled-sardine and sangria-selling stalls, cheery bunting, and happy people. More..

Lisbon historic area Mouraria June 2018

View from terrace cafe/restaurant Bruta FlorLargo da Severa, Lisbon 

Who was matchmaker Saint AnthonySanto António (15 August 1195 – 13 June 1231)?

Saint Anthony’s brides: YouTube 

June 12, 2018: The Saint Anthony’s mass marriages  in Lisbon. Picture: Josephine Lucassen

Celebrated since before the 25 April Revolution in 1974, the Santo António weddings are held to give cash-strapped local couples the chance to wed in a large joint ceremony. More…

The lucky couples receive everything free of charge including the ring, wedding dress and honeymoon as part of an annual competition organised by the city council.

Party time ! Historic area Mouraria June 12, 2018. Picture: Rob van Scherpenseel

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the narrow streets. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!  🙂

YouTube Saint Anthony street parties historic area Mouraria Lisbon

People are dancing on Pimba musica

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

An example of Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria ! 😉 😉 by Quim Barreiros)

June 12, 2018: The kings of the sardine (os reis da sardinha)  😉

Grilled sardines & Saint Anthony parties belong together.

Everywhere in the streets of the historic areas in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up with people in party mood.

Mouraria Lisbon June 12 2016

Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

Lisbon area Mouraria, June 12, 2018: senhor Gonçalo

In this area, short term rentals : my 100 m2 3-bedroom apartment with quiet lovely patio (30 m2) , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably

Area Mouraria Lisbon:  Saint Anthony in 2018 loves to party!

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

 Festas de Lisboa       Facebook

Waiting for the Mouraria yearly parade 2018…

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

Yearly parades June 12

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm, June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.  Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes.

Lisbon June 2018

Marcha da Mouraria 2018

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria June 12, 2018

 Rua da Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2016 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria, Lisbon.

Picture: Hans Stuij

June 12, 2017 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Mouraria Lisbon, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad in June

Lisbon Mouraria historical area in June party time

June 12, 2015: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year

Wine, sangria, beer,  sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets.

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints in historical area Mouraria Lisbon

Saint João 😉 😉 (sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Lisbon June 16 2016

Saint Antonio street party Mouraria Lisbon & the black bra at the neighbors’ balustrade 😉 😉

Bar Flamingo & Dutch friend Feikje Stuij

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria Lisbon, June 12, 2017 & bar Flamingo  Strike a pose! 🙂

In this area in Mouraria , short term rentals : my 3-bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely sunny patio (30 m2) , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably.

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto

YouTube Partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in area Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

Largo da Trindade Lisbon- people are dancing on Pimba music

Lisbon santo Antonio Alfama BBQ

Historic area Alfama & BBQ in the street

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube in one of the historical parts of Lisbon: Alfama

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Manjerico basil Festas de Lisboa gift R June 2

Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities

MORE …

Bar Flamingo Mouraria Lisbon: surprising place for night owls & crazy psychedelic bathroom

Reopened May 10, 2018: new owners

The Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria is one of the best surprises in Lisbon. A perfect place for a night out (till 03:00) with friends.

Strike a pose!! Bar Flamingo in Lisbon, owners Jorge Gomes Moreira & Ana Batel,  June 2017

Vintage decor with an aristocratic twist

The space, a former lavandaria (dry cleaning shop), is cozy, quite small, but with a very original decor 🙂 😉

Bar, dance- and nightclub Flamingo is situated at the same square as the famous bar Anos 60, that has recently closed its doors: Largo do Terreirinho in Lisbon.

Bar Flamingo Lisbon: June 12, Lisbon’s craziest night , friends Margriet, Rob, Lilja & bar owner Jorge

Owners Flamingo Bar: Ana BatelJorge Gomes Moreira

Owner Ana Batel: ‘Flamingo is a journey, you’ll never know what’s going to happen but you always can count with good mood: Time Out Lisbon rated our bar the bar with best good mood for square meter !! although we only have a few square meters 😉  ‘.
‘Good music, especially when me, Ana, choose the playlist, sorry Jorge… and of course there’s the craziest psycadellic bathroom in Lisbon – a bathroom that turns into a disco floor’.
Bar Flamingo, the craziest psychedelic bathroom in Lisbon & Saturday Night Fever!
Strike a pose!! We’re always vogueing!
 –
Owner Ana Batel: ‘Dead Combo (a Portuguese Indie Electronica band) shoot all the photos of their latest album in Flamingo, but especially from us… 😉  we’re always vogueing! Strike a pose!!’
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon: Colin Ginks & Garçon Niere
Variety of music styles & Ana’s famous cocktails
Surprising music: hip hop, rap, funk, jazz and unclassifiable.
Although this small bar opened not so long ago in Mouraria, Ana’s (gin) cocktails are already famous in Lisbon…… !
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon & cocktail Red Hot Chili Gin 🙂
Cocktails  € 4 –  € 8);  Gin € 5 – € 10
Bar Flamingo owner Ana: ” Cucumber Daiquiris, Red Hot Chilli Gins, Peach Margueritas & so on & of course infinitive madness!! – that’s why Atlas Lisboa rated us one of the best of 2016!! “
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon, owner Ana Batel & June 12, Lisbon’s craziest night
 –
Happy hour: always from 6 to 8 p.m
Beer Estrella Galicia (20 cl) 1€;
small sangria 1€;
cocktail of the day 4€;
Bar Flamengo in area Mouraria Lisbon & 2 very nice girls!
Cocktails from 5€ to 8€; Gin from 5€ to 10€; whisky, vodka & rum 5€;
liquors 3€ to 4€
Shots 2€
Beer from 1,5€ to 3€
Sangria from 1,5€ to 3€ (small or large glass)
Wine 2€ (glass)
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon & decor with an aristrocatic twist 🙂 😉
June 12: Lisbon’s craziest night & Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony’s Day)
In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. On the Eve of Saint Anthony’s Day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!
 
Bar Flamingo in area Mouraria Lisbon & June 12 2017, Lisbon’s craziest night
Bar- dance & nightclub Flamingo – Largo do Terreirinho 16, Lisbon
Tuesday to Thursday from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m
Fridays & Saturdays from 6 p.m to 3 a.m.
Sundays from 8 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Happy hour from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m (wine 1 euro, beer 1 euro) Facebook (more info)

 –

Bar Flamingo in historic area Mouraria : Largo do Terreirinho 16 Lisbon
5 minutes walk from square Martim Moniz (tram 15, 28 stop & metro)

Restaurant cafe Bruta Flor Lisbon: creative food, warm staff, live music & lovely place

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place! Cafe/restaurant Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) is located in Mouraria, a bit tucked away in the heart of the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant Bruta Flor, historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Saturday night February 2017

Nowadays Largo da Severaa in historic area Mouraria is a beautiful little square, named after Maria Severa, considered to be the first fado singer in Portugal.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor  Mouraria Lisbon June 2017

This restaurant was once a typography workplace, now it’s been transformed into a lovely decorated dining space.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) area Mouraria Lisbon February 2017

Historical area Mouraria & 900 years of history

Historical area Mouraria exists more than 900 years, together with Alfama it is Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value. The former Moorish quarter is a muddle of very narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & healthy creative dishes

Great selection of vegetarian dishes

We ordered a vegetarian meal: tomato couscous (yummy! € 8,50) and Thai chicken (€ 8,75), a bottle of fantastic biological wine Fossil (€ 13,00), small bottle of water (€ 1,30), olives (€ 1,00), and chocolate cake ice cream (€ 3,50).

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & friend Rob Plews, February 2017

There’s a variety of (bio) Portuguese wines available, my favorite: Fossil 🙂 bottle € 13.

There are also nights of live music: this night we really enjoyed Vitória.

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & Vitória  (YouTube)

Owners restaurant Bruta Flor Paula, Ruth & Ugo: world citizens

Owner Paula Froes: ‘We are a family of three, who decided to step up and do something for ourselves. All of us have their own professions but I am the only one who works on at least one of mine. None of us was born in Portugal. I come from Mozambique, Ugo and Ruth from England. We have also lived in Brazil. We are somehow a trio of world citizens’.

Restaurant Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon February 2017: owners Paula, Ruth & Ugo

Restaurant Bruta Flor, Mouraria : March 18 & NV Lissabon members

Music, Art & people 

Owner Paula: “As you come into our place you will probably feel the influences of our travels, both in the decoration, the food, the exhibitions, workshops and live music. The world is made of different people and that makes it exciting. There are many pleasures in life, amongst them eating, drinking, enjoying music, art and people”.

On the wall, a portrait of a French painter Séraphine Louis

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon February 2017 & owner Ugo

Home made cakes

Bruta Flor is divided into 2 spaces: there’s a small and cozy cafe right next to the restaurant. From morning to evening there’s coffee and delicious cake (slice € 2.50, home made of course!), and for breakfast and for lunch a variety of healthy ideas to choose from (€ 3.50 – € 7.00).

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon, dinner March 2017

Tábua de Enchidos (Meat Board) € 11.50, Tábua Vega with guacamole , black beans, humus, raw vegetables, chips, wrap and toast € 9.00, queijo € 5,50 (1/2 board of cheese variety), glass of red wine € 2.80, coffee € 0.80.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon & dinner with friends Loek Polack and Ans de Graaf

Bruta Flor: a mix of good food, comfort & adventure

Owner Paula: “Providing opportunities for people to meet one another, share their visions, arts, over a delicious meal. Life is not only about gathering, sometimes we just want to be by ourselves and have a good reading in a quiet environment. We would like to think this is also possible at our café. Comfort and adventure. Can we mix them? We believe we can. A flavour, a sound, a colour … there are many ways of tasting life”.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon, wall drawing: beautiful man & wild flowers 🙂

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor   Music: Caetano Veloso – O Quereres – Bruta Flor
Opening hours (closed Monday/Tuesday)  table booking recommended
15:00 – 23:00 (Wednesday – Thursday)
15:00 – 24:00 (Friday)
11:00 – 24:00 (Saturday) There are also nights of live music and painting exhibitions.
11:00 – 23:00 (Sunday)
Happy hours: 18:30 – 20:00. Phone: (00351) 915498119.  Facebook

 

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & view Largo da Severa Lisbon

Short-term rental in this area: my apartment (100 m2, 3 bedrooms), lovely private & quiet patio

Looking for an authentic apartment in this area? More info about my apartment in Mouraria & availability calendar

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado music & 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Looking for a short term vacation apartment? My three bedroom apartment with sunny patio (30 m2) in this historic area, Mouraria).

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Amália Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Portas do Sol Lisbon: famous river lounge terrace & Santa Luzia, Tagus viewpoint

Terrace ‘Portas do Sol’ (Gates to the Sun) is located in Lisbon’s historical center, close to the famous viewpoint (miradouro) with the same name, at Largo das Portas do Sol.  A coffee , cocktail bar and restaurant, and an exceptional location.

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon Tagus view 5 lounge sofas

The lounge area of Portas do Sol, September 2010

Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus! After visiting the nearby  São Jorge Castle (the Castle of St. Jorge),  this is a place where you can sit down, chill out and enjoy the beauty of Lisbon.

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon 2

Entrance Porta do Sol cafe, bar/cafe and restaurant, 1000 m2 terrace

This cafe/bar and restaurant is very easy to reach. It has direct access on the tram 28 which is the more touristic of the Lisbon trams.

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon Alfama Tagus view 4 lounge sofas

The lounge area of Portas do Sol Lisbon

Portas do Sol is  a lovely spot to sit down and relax with sofas and soft lounge-music, a place during the day where you can hang out and have coffee and snacks.

The lounge area of Portas do Sol Lisbon, in love! 🙂

They serve wines, cocktails, champagne and menu’s.

Live music with a DJ on Fridays and Saturdays. Beautiful bar with crystal chandlers and chairs in art deco and romantic style (250m2).

Portas do Sol terrace Lisbon 1

Open daily from 10am to 12pm. Fridays, Saturdays and nights before a public holiday until 2am.

Website Portas do Sol.  Address: Largo das Portas do Sol, Beco de Santa Helena, Lisbon

Portas do Sol terrace Alfama Lisbon 4 view

Portas do Sol ‘s  terrace/lounge area

Seen from the nearby famous viewpoint with the same name, a very popular place for locals and a famous tourist attraction. One of the most beautiful places in Lisbon!

Lisbon viewpoint Portas do Sol by night

Viewpoint (Miradouro) Portas do Sol Alfama Lisbon, by night

The Belvedere Portas do Sol is a balcony space that all people of Lisbon are proud to have at their disposal. Magnificent view of Lisbon and the typical Alfama district that spans several narrow, winding streets to the river Tagus.

Portas so SOl viewpoint miradouro Alfama Lisbon cruise ship

View from the nearby small terrace

Located in between several highlights of Lisbon (like the viewpoint of Santa Luzia) , the Portas do Sol miradouro is the terrace that every person living in Lisabon would like to have at home…..

Portas so SOl viewpoint miradouro Alfama Lisbon statue Saint Vincent

Statue of São (Saint) Vincent, Portas do Sol

There is also a statue of Saint Vincent holding a boat with two ravens, the symbols of Lisbon. Saint Vincent of Saragossa, better known locally as Saint Vincent of Fora, is the patron saint of Lisbon.

Largo das Portas dol Sol Lisbon Museum of decorative arts

Largo das Porta do Sol, and the former city palace, Museum of Decorative Arts

In this wonderful 17th C. former city palace, currently houses the Museum of Decorative Arts. Anyone interested in decorative arts in general and the Portuguese Empire in particular will find this collection fascinating. Beautiful azulejos (tiles)!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

The popular tram 28 (video) stops near the Museum and the viewpoints

If you like to have a good impression of the historical city of Lisbon, a very good idea is taking this typical little trolley, ‘eléctrico 28. This legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. Of course you can hop on and hop off.

Miradouro Santa Luzia Alfama ancient tiles and viewpoint

The nearby viewpoint Miradouro of Santa Luzia

Various small gardens along the edge of the walkway are filled with beautiful local flowers during the spring and summer months.

Lisbon Miradouro Santa Luzia by night view roofs Alfama and river Tejo

Viewpoint Miradouro de Santa Luzia by night

This is a very popular look-out point from the Alfama area of Lisbon, next to the Santa Luzia Church.

Lisbon viewpoint Santa Luzia tiles2

Viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Luzia – church

On the wall of the church are two beautiful tile panels (azulejos): one of Lisbon’s majestic Square Praça do Comércio before the earthquake in 1775, and another one showing the Christians attacking (the nearby) Castelo de São Jorge (Saint George’s Castle) in 1147.

Miradouro Santa Luzia Lisbon Alfama azulejos

Miradouro Santa Luzia

Azulejos (tiles) have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. This place is a wonderful tile treasure!

Lisbon Restaurant Miradouro Sta Luzia Alfama

Restaurant ‘Miradouro Sta Luzia’ near the viewpoint, a very popular tourist place.

Looking for a short time rental apartment in Lisbon? Please check the calendar of my

Authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in the historical part of Lisbon

Hotspot bar ‘A Capela’ Lisbon (the Chapel), vibrant area Bairro Alto & owner Pedro Silva

This area is a hotspot for people who love nightlife!!

Bairro Alto by night Rua da Atalaia4

Bairro Alto in Lisbon is posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out!

Rua da Atalaia, Bairro Alto   Lisbon at 02:00.

Every night hundreds of people are drinking mojitos and cheap beer out of plastic cups, listening to everything from samba to African rhythms, but mainly electro and techno.

DSC00324

‘A Capela’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon’s heart of funky bars and restaurants.

Of what was once a chapel (Capela) only some stones remain.

Bairro Alto Bar Capela Pedro Silva

Owner and DJ Pedro Silva

Club and wine bar ‘A Capela, Rua Atalaia, 45 Lisbon. The eclectic selection of musical combines the environmental sounds of electronic music, dub, groove with the classics of all time, from Madonna to Kraftwerk.

Miguel Sá, Nuno Bernardino, Pedro Silva, Luis elgris Paul NUPI, Fernando fadigaz Pregal and Rui Cunha, among others, are responsible for the sound quality.

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Everyday there’s a different DJ, mainly electronic music but very eclectic and super competent.

Bar A Capela Lisbon Rua Atalaia June 2009

Bairro Alto district, Rua da Atalaia, in June.

June is the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints). The Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.

Lisbon Bairro Alto nightlife Rene

Area Bairro Alto, Lisbon.

Top 10 bars with live music in this area in Lisbon

Picture: René van Gijn

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Bairro Alto Lisbon. Picture: René van Gijn

‘A Capela’ bar on Facebook

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Picture: René van Gijn

‘A Capela’ bar is open every day.

Monday to Thursday: 18:00 till 02:00, Friday and Saturday: 18:00 till 03:00 Sunday: 18:00 till 2:00 a.m.

I love Bairro Alto

Lisbons’ legendary flea market Feira da Ladra & Cristiano Ronaldo’s sexy underwear

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama at Campo de Santa Clara , is Lisbons legendary flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. More or less it means ‘market of thieves’. You should take this quite literally and keep an eye on your wallet .

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‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that fell of a lorry, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first.

Lisbon Shopping Feira da Ladra

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price. It’s part of the game and if you don’t you’ll pay far too much. The market is held every Tuesday and Saturday, from dawn to dusk.

Lisbon Shopping Feira da Ladra woman

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

This nice Portuguese lady speaks French and English. Good stuff!

Feira da Ladra August trendy designer

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Alberto Gourgel (with white cap), designer.

Dogs on Feira de Ladra Lisbon flea market

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

December in Lisbon: 18 degrees and these dogs wear hand-knitted sweaters 😉 More about Dogs in Lisbon

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‘This one is Ronaldo’s’  and ‘this one is Eusebio’s’.

Cristiano Ronaldo & underwear

Maybe Portugal’s famous soccer star and sexy sportsman Cristiano Ronaldo has swapped his hotpants here for something more erotical than Armani’s underwear 😉

Feira da Ladra Lisbon Michael Jackson March10

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon: famous fleamarket

Michael Jackson‘s bestselling album of all time, ‘Thriller’. Price 50 euro, but you can always try to negotiate.

Feira da Ladra legendary market Lisbon Michael Jackson thriller album

‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama Lisbon:

Fleamarket with lots of second hand stuff: it’s always fun to stroll around 🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon Josephine Lucassen & children February 2016

Friend and tourist guide Josephine Lucassen & children Frederico and Alicia, February 2016

For a small fee anyone who wants can offer his stuff on this market.

Entrance fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

Fleamarket easy to reach by tram 28

The best way to enter Feira de Ladra is through the arch Arco de São Vicente where tram 28 stops.

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Feira da Ladra and the nearby National Pantheon

Important Portugese personalities are buried in the National Pantheon , like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Short term rental, 10 minutes walk from this market in historical area Mouraria: my 3 bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio (30 m2)

Vizinho David cafe Feira da Ladra

Popular restaurant with a sunny terrace near the fleamarket ‘O Panteao’ : cheap and good!

Fado history Mouraria Lisbon: a passionate liaison & first Fado singer Maria Severa

Historic area Mouraria contains a tangled street layout just as in Alfama, which has remained since the times of the Moors.

Mouraria Historical Center typical lley

Mouraria, Lisbon, one of Lisbon’s oldest districts.

The Arabs withdrew into this quarter after Lisbon was conquered by the Portuguese – a ghetto for people of different faiths arose. In the 19th C. prostitution and fado, which at this time was considered to be indecent, brought the quarter a bad name.

Mouraria Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão. How to get there

Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. The area is full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap (but good!) small restaurants.

Looking for a vacation stay in Lisbon? My Three bedroom apartment with sunny pátio (30 m2) in Mouraria – (short term rentals).

Mouraria historical center fado Rua da Severa


Largo da Severa’ Lisbon in area Mouraria.

Fado

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of fado music. The quarter is still today associated with fado: The ‘Casa de Severa’ at Largo da Severa 2 was the home of the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando, who died at age 26 on November 30, 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Famous performer of fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz.

Mouraria historical center fado plaque

(‘Mouraria, sculpture Berço do Fado‘, fado was born here)

Rua da Mouraria/ corner Rua do Capelão. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. But the scandal increased fado’s appeal, leading to the publication of its first sheet music.

Fado Maria Severa painting

Famous painting Maria da Severa, regarded as the first fado singer

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”.

Mouraria Historical Center house Maria Severa fado singer

Fadista Maria da Severa’s house

UPDATE 2014:

Maria da Severa’s house is beautifully remodeled, you can enjoy pure fado here and traditional Portuguese food

There is a plaque in Maria Severa’s memory and a stylized fado guitar can be seen on the newly surfaced road where she lived. The memory of the singer is also kept alive in the pub called “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) in the nearby Rua do Capelao , with a painting of her hanging on the wall.

Mouraria Fado Friends of Maria Severa

Cafe “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) Mouraria Lisbon

Rua do Capelao 32, owner senhor Antonio Correia Alves Pais

Walk with friends Ans and Loek in Mouraria: a sua saúde ! Picture: Loek Polack

More about this remarkable little bar.

Bar “da Velha Senhora” (Old Lady’s bar) Lisbon: burlesque performances & the day Cesária Évora died

If you like burlesque performances, glittering revue shows and cabaret a must-go place is bar “da Velha Senhora” (Old lady’s bar) in Lisbon! Video: ‘Hallooooooooooooooooooo!”  2 beautiful ladies invite you to enjoy the show

Bar da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

While eating traditional Portuguese snacks (“petiscos“) you can enjoy various artistic performances. This bar is in the same typical Portuguese 18th-century building as Pensão Amor” (a former ‘love’ guesthouse), with a wonderful unique décor . Also really worth a visit!

Stage Bar ”da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

Inside, almost everything complies with the burlesque theme and imagery of Lisbon in the early twentieth century. The building itself – a cultural and artistic project – witnesses the time that thirsty sailors docked in the harbor and spent their free time drinking booze and have fun with women.

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

Former Lisbon’s red light district

The stories of prostitutes and sailors are inseparable from Cais do Sodré, formerly known as Lisbon’s red light district with bars named after northern European capitals (like Copenhagen, or Roterdão, Rotterdam) to attract their sailors who stepped off their boats here.

But times have changed: nowaydays it is a great area to go out at night! Musicbox is a trendy hotspot for live bands and DJ’s, disco clubs Tokyo and Jamaica became two of the most loved alternative clubs in Lisbon.

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” & DJ Rycardo Lisbon, December 17, 2011

The day Cesária Évora died

I will never forget the day Cesária Évora died, December 17, 2011. Early in the evening we went to Bar da Velha Senhora. When DJ Rycardo started to play the famous and wonderful songs of Cesária, suddenly all the people in the bar started spontaneously clapping their hands and some began to cry … I still get goosebumps thinking about that day…!

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” & DJ Rycardo Lisbon: the day Cesária Évora died

A woman jumped on the table and started to dance…….   Amazing!

Popular singer Cesária Évora, “the Barefoot Diva’, has made Cape (Cabo) Verde famous all over the world. She generally performed in bare feet, as a sign of solidarity for the large number of women and children back home in the Cape Verdean Islands who cannot afford shoes.

Cesária Évora: ‘Miss Perfumado (youtube). More about former Portuguese colony Cape Verde (from 1456-1975)

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

Rua Nova do Carvalho 38, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon, tel. (00351)351 213 468 479. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 6pm to 4am . FACEBOOK

Metro: Cais do Sodré. Facebook.com/bardavelhasenhora