Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, naughty lyrics & grilled sardines

Due to COVID 19 : no street parties, no brides, no parades in June 2020 & 2021, how sad… ūüôĀ¬† ūüôĀ¬†¬† More: (Atlas Lisboa) ¬† Hopefully next year will be better! Cultura na Rua

Area Mouraria Lisbon in the month of June, 2019

Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. A wonderful atmosphere! ūüôā

Lisbon, Rua dos Remédios, area Alfama June 2019

Every year mid-June, the time-honoured Santo António celebrations take over the streets of Lisbon, filling them with grilled-sardine and sangria-selling stalls, cheery bunting, and happy people. More..

Lisbon historic area Mouraria in June

View from terrace cafe/restaurant Bruta Flor, Largo da Severa, Lisbon 

Who was matchmaker¬†Saint Anthony,¬†Santo Ant√≥nio (15 August 1195 ‚Äď 13 June 1231)?

June 12, 2018: The Saint Anthony’s mass marriages  in Lisbon. Picture: Josephine Lucassen

YouTube weddings (casamentos)

Celebrated since before the 25 April Revolution in 1974, the Santo Ant√≥nio weddings are held to give cash-strapped local couples the chance to wed in a large joint ceremony. More…

Area Mouraria Lisbon June 2019, Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

Saint Anthony’s brides:¬†YouTube¬†

The lucky couples receive everything free of charge including the ring, wedding dress and honeymoon as part of an annual competition organised by the city council.

Party time ! Historic area Mouraria June 12, 2018. Picture: Rob van Scherpenseel

Square : Largo da Severa 2 Lisbon

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the narrow streets. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12,¬†Lisbon turns into one big party!¬† ūüôā

YouTube Saint Anthony street parties historic area Mouraria Lisbon

People are dancing on Pimba musica

Pimba music Рsongs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

An example of Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’¬†¬†(¬†I would like to smell your codfish Maria !¬†ūüėČ ūüėČ by¬†Quim Barreiros)

June 12, Eve of Santo Antonio, Mouraria Lisbon

The kings of the sardine (os reis da sardinha)¬† ūüėČ

Grilled sardines & Saint Anthony parties belong together!

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad in June

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Mouraria Lisbon June 12, 2016, Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

Everywhere in the streets of the historic areas in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up with people in party mood.

June 12, 2019

Street party Saint Santo Antonio & romantic couple overlooking the festivities ūüôā

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Margriet de Vrieze & sardine party ūüôā¬† Mouraria Lisbon

 Festas de Lisboa       Facebook

Waiting for the Mouraria¬†yearly parade 2018…

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

Yearly parades June 12 : Youtube 2018

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm, June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.

Area Mouraria Lisbon & yearly parade June 12, 2019,  Santo Antonio Marchas Populares

Each group represents one of Lisbon’s twenty neighborhoods There ‘s a winner for the best performance and costumes. More..

Marcha da Mouraria 2018

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria June 12, 2018

How to reach this area

 Rua Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2019 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria, Lisbon.

Wine, sangria, beer,  sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the narrow streets.

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015

Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of¬†Mouraria

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints

Saint Jo√£o ūüėČ ūüėČ

(sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Santo Antonio party June 12, 2019

How about a Chinese restaurant selling typical Portugese snacks? ūüôā

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto

YouTube¬†Partying¬†in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo¬†

The narrow streets in area Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood. Every bar and club shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

June 2019, Lisbon & historical area Alfama

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 Р15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Love poems

n√£o digas que n√£o amas –¬† “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –¬†¬†¬† because your voice is trembling
quando um n√£o proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –¬†¬†it is¬†“yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE……. ¬†Largo Santo Antonio √† S√©, Alfama.¬†¬†

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities. Picture: Luc de Leersnyder

MORE …

Kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ Lisbon: Tagus river view garden & children playground

The ‘Clara Clara’ Cafe¬†in Alfama Lisbon¬†is a kiosk in the garden-terrace of ¬†(Santa Clara), overlooking the Tagus (Tejo)¬†River and the National Pantheon (Church of Santa Engracia).

‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

Lovely & quiet garden

Summer, 2015. This small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon or after visiting the nearby National Pantheon , in which important Portuguese personalities are buried.

April 29, 2021: cafe ‘Clara Clara’ terrace Lisbon

This lovely small garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids . A little further down, there is a playground.

Playground for children – kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ Lisbon

The cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Cafe Clara Clara & a part of the garden overlooking the river Tagus

An inviting terrace in summertime: the kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in summertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) . The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market every Tuesday and Saturday

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn),

Cafe ‘Clara Clara’

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Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ Lisbon, historic square Intendente & lovely loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, August 2020. Square Largo do Intendente 59

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings,¬†f.i. the¬†Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine:¬†a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:¬† “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon 2015:¬†owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro¬†“Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime¬†(till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,¬† the¬†Prego¬†or a¬†Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine, 2015

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do¬†Intendente”.

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria Lisbon.¬†Metro: verde (green)¬†stop Intendente. Facebook

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014: ¬†bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon ūüôā

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe ¬†sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat¬†created by a famous Portuguese designer ūüôā

Square Intendente 2018

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente¬†

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square ūüôā

At the center of the square, there’s a¬†wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the fa√ßade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal‚Äôs trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas¬† Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar¬†‘Maria da Mouraria.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do¬†Capel√£o¬†(& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capel√£o

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado¬†bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house¬†‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was¬†born in this house, that’s why¬†this¬†place was created (in 2013)¬†to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer,¬†considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre)¬†Lisbon:¬†Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being¬†a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends¬†Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide)¬†and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: ‚ā¨ 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube¬†movie about the area and people who live here , trying to¬†sing fado¬†:-) ūüėČ

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Am√°lia Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’,¬†Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa N¬ļ2/2B.¬† Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)

Bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon: Ginja liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a¬†delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!¬†¬†Very popular!¬†You can taste it¬†in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar¬†‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon¬†& owner sr.¬†Ant√≥nio Pais¬†serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ .¬†Already 40 years sr.¬†Ant√≥nio Pais is the very friendly owner. ¬†

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro ūüôā¬†¬†Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent¬† ūüôā¬†

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon¬†try a glass of Ginja¬†at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction,¬†but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. Ant√≥nio,¬†and taste his favorite¬†Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly ūüėČ ¬†The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

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Tiny tavern¬†‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon &¬†amigo Felipe Aristimu√Īo

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinha ‚Äėcom Ginja‚Äô (with a cherry in the glass). If you don‚Äôt want it, ask for one ‚Äėsem Ginja‚Äô (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets ūüôĀ

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost! ¬†ūüėČ A remarkable night in¬†Mouraria¬†with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and Lisbon’s first fado singer
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. Ant√≥nio’s radio.
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr.¬†Ant√≥nio Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maur√≠cio. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together ūüôā . There’re¬†Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
June 2019, Artur Domingos & Gabrielle
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Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon
Where: Rua do Capel√£o, n.¬ļ 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house¬†‚ÄėMaria da Mouraria‚Äô. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
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Saturday biological market Príncipe Real Lisbon & amazing centuries-old trees

The park in area¬†Pr√≠ncipe Real in Lisbon¬†is¬†a gorgeous location! Centuries-old beautiful trees and shadowed terraces .¬†Besides: a biological market is held here every Saturday morning ūüôā

This century-old cedar ‘umbrella’ (20 meters) tree is really amazing!

Park Príncipe Real (Royal Prince) Lisbon : charming & quiet  area

Beautiful trees and terraces to drink your bica (espresso), and besides not expensive ! The atmosphere is very relaxed.

Park Príncipe Real Lisbon. Picture: Rufus Ketting

This park is an extension of area Bairro Alto, in which plenty of bars and (also gay) clubs are in easy reach.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon 

Park Pr√≠ncipe Real, and the nearby Botanical Garden of the University of Lisbon (one of Europe’s finest!) are great for relaxing.

Shopping & renovated historical buildings

Designer boutiques and art galleries are housing in wonderful renovated historical buildings.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon, Saturday biological market: Pedro & Dina

The small Moorish kiosk is one of the lovely designed kiosks (quiosque) in Lisbon, serving old-fashioned Portuguese refreshments and snacks.

On August 6, 711 Lisbon was taken by the Moors, 400 years later the city returned to Christian rule.  Nowadays the Moorish influence is still present.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon: Saturday biological market

Biological market every Saturday from 9:00-3:00

Around the park, the Biological Products Fair (Feira de Produtos Biológicos) is held every week on Saturdays at Jardim França Borges, commonly known as Jardim do Príncipe Real.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon: Saturday biological market

At Lisbon’s weekly organic farmers market¬†producers from all around the country sell most varied natural products, from vegetables to cosmetics, honey and wine. Bargaining is always possible and appropriate.

Parque¬†Pr√≠ncipe Real Lisbon & home made compotes ‘doces da Paulinha’

‘Doces da Paulinha’ (sweet and savory): traditional flavors, with organic products, handcrafted with love .¬†Facebook

The 13 best markets in Lisbon (by Atlas)

Restaurants in this area

There are several good places to have lunch or dinner, such as one of my favorites,¬†Italian restaurant & pizzeria¬†Zero Zero with a lovely outdour dining area, or trendy restaurant ‚ÄėO Prego da Peixaria: ¬†excellent steak or fish.

Lisbon Principe Real Rua dom Pedro V Cunha Palace

Rua dom Pedro V, no. 26 : Arabesque Ribeiro da Cunha Palace (1877)

Principe Real’s Rua dom Pedro V ¬†is one of the most interesting streets of Lisbon to walk around. In recent years, the neighborhood has become a great place to shop . Watch out for pickpocking¬† )-:

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real

There¬†are incredible stores, such as¬†Embaixada¬†(the Embassy), ‚Äč‚Äčwhich was built in 1877 and now houses design shops, fashion and gastronomy in wonderful spaces.¬† ¬†Website

YouTube : the Rebirth of Lisbon’s Principe Real District

Shopping store Embaixada is located in Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, a XIX century new-Arabian Palace, one of the most iconic buildings in this neighbourhood. Facebook

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real,  no. 26 Lisbon

Park Príncipe Real Lisbon

Lisbon: how to recognize good cheap Portuguese restaurants & José & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of¬†Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri¬†(small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as¬†cinnamon, vanilla and saffron.

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’ & owner Jos√© Maria

CLOSED. UPDATE March 2019: due to eviction (despejos) after 34 years ( !!) this restaurant is closed.¬† What a shame ūüôĀ ūüôĀ¬†

Vimeo: Evictions in Lisbon 

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’:

5 minutes walk (also open on Sundays): restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’, good food, local prices :-).¬† Rua Marqu√™s Ponte de Lima 5, Mouraria, Lisbon

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria, shops fado, bars & restaurants

Owner José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice, delicious!

The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like past√©is de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee:¬†strong¬†(bica) with milk (gal√£o – garoto), tea (ch√°) with or without sugar (a√ß√ļcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

Local priced restaurants and useful information about area Mouraria

February 2019: a city trip to Lisbon with 3 generations of the Kollmer family from the Netherlands¬† ūüôā ūüôā

Good quality & local prices

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon!!¬† ūüôā ¬†ūüôā

If you prefer meat, and don’t feel like experimenting, try a ‚Äėbitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca. 7 euro).

Typical Portugues & very popular: grilled sardines

Bill for 3 persons: around 30 euro

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Restaurant owner Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

January 2016: what a wonderful surprise! ūüôā Erika, Loek, Luc & Ans

Football

In Portugal there’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football¬†(futebol!)¬†is also¬†really important….!! ūüėČ

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 Р10 euro).

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda November 2018

Unrequested starter dishes

You won’t pay for¬†starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (n√£o, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!).¬† NOT in this place ūüôā

Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 ‚ā¨

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Roasted apple (sobremesa: dessert)

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00. Dinner from 19:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almo√ßar),¬†¬†is¬†a big affair¬†for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock,¬†often¬†in a restaurant¬†(and often¬†paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a ca√ßador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frango)¬†piri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da √ćndia, in Bairro Alto¬†

Nun’s bellies & bacon from heaven¬† ūüėČ

Desserts (sobremesas): cr√™me brul√©e (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (am√™ndoa). Toucinho do c√©u (bacon¬†from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela in the north.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually¬†written on the paper table cloth…you can pay in cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 20 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point starting point legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

Discover trendy historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Noobai rooftop bar restaurant Lisbon, nightlife & amazing Tagus river views

What a view! One of the favorite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors.  Cafe Noobai is located on Miradouro (viewpoint) de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor.

Renewed Cafe Noobai, overlooking the Tagus River, March 2018

Relaxed ambiance & nice people

Cafe /restaurant Noobai is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tagus (Tejo) river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people. One of my favorite places!

Cafe Noobai, 2015

Noobai Rooftop Bar Restaurant is located at the trendy Santa Catarina Belvedere , Lisbon

Cafe Noobai, 2010

Situated on a Lisbon hilltop Noobai has a panoramic view over the old town houses, the modern buildings, the Tagus river, the harbor, the “25 de Abril” bridge and the amazing sunset .

Rooftop Cafe Restaurant Noobai Lisbon:¬† delicious tuna:¬†‚ā¨ 7, march 2018

Salades, sandwiches and soups, special teas and fresh juices. And of course caipirinha’s ūüôā

Noobai cafe bar Adamastor

Noobai, 2010

In wintertime there’ re fleece blankets available on the terrace. There’s also an indoor room¬†

dede-noobai

Noobai ,  2005

‘We go’

The name Noobai comes from ‘Nu bai’ which means ‘we go’ in the creole dialect from Cabo Verde, a former colony of Portugal.

dj-noobai

Sometimes on Sundays there are DJ’s playing relaxed tunes

Nightlife

Noobai is good fur a lunch or to get things started before moving on to nearby bars in Bica or Bairro Alto

Lisbon Noobai hotspot Adamastor great Tagus River views

Cafe Noobai, area Santa Catarina Lisbon

 Sunset Video 

Near Adamastor Lisbon & view Tagus river March 2018

Monday – Sunday 10 AM > 12 AM

Website 

Location:Noobai, Miradouro de Santa Catarina (Adamastor) Lisboa‘¬†

Café Noobai, Lisbon. April 16, 2016

A¬†lovely place in Lisbon¬†ūüôā Cecile Joyce and Cristine van Haalen

Cafe Noobai Lisbon in February, near Adamastor, popular gathering place

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: tram 28, dancing & aphrodisiacs

Update January 2019: unfortunlately the streetfood kiosks disappeared on this square ūüôĀ¬† , soon plans will be announced about the ‘new look’.

At this square there’s the starting point of¬†the legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction.

Square Martim Moniz¬†: Kiosk ‘A Preta’ (‘The Black’) : Jo√£o (Johnny)¬†and his¬†sister Luiza Gabriel

Kiosk with a tropical touch. Jo√£o and his sister Luiza (DJ Lady¬†G Brown) serve super good¬†hamburgers, delicious pinchos (meat on a stick), salades¬†and fresh juices. They were born in Angola, a former colony of Portugal¬†(from the 16th century to 1975).¬†They moved to Lisbon in 1982. Johnny worked a few years in Amsterdam and he speaks a little Dutch (‘lekker!‘)

Kiosk ‘A Preta’¬†Square Martim Moniz Lisbon; hamburger with salad and potatoes ‚ā¨¬†5,50. Delicious! Salad: 4.00 ‚ā¨

Square Martim Moniz, located in the most multicultural area in Lisbon is nowadays a place where you can enjoy a light (also vega)¬†meal in the sun: a meeting of cultures that will host delicacies from the four corners of the world, in the weekends there’s¬†a market selling biological products, shops, music and shows.

Castle of Saint Jorge (Castelo de S√£o Jorge ) overlooking square Martim Moniz Lisbon

Here you can eat samosas, or a pizza, or ice cream, or a hamburger, or a vegetarian snack … drinking a cold beer, listen to live music or a DJ and enjoy the warm summer evenings. The Castelo de S√£o Jorge overlooking the historical centre of Lisbon, and the entire square has a view of the castle.

Square Martim Moniz : vegetarian kiosk Erva & Carla Contige

Kiosk with green cuisine: vegetarian, vegan and macrobiotic specialities, made with fresh ingredients and prepared with love by Carla Contige…. You must try the salad, full of fruit, greens and seeds, or a Vega burger (‚ā¨ 5).

Square Martim Moniz : kiosk mr. Leader (BBQMM)

Kiosk with a cook of Chinese origin. I tasted his creation of an empadão, a mix of minced meat and mashed potatoes.

Empadão (pie) mix: minced meat with mashed potatoes, linguiça (smoke cured pork sausage seasoned with garlic and paprika), bacon an dried chili peppers

Delicious! ( 3.50 euro)

Square Martim Moniz Mercado de Fus√£o

Aphrodisiacs and liqueurs like Licor de Merda¬†(made of shit)¬† ūüėČ

The Liqor de Merda¬†was born in 1974. It¬†is a Portuguese alcoholic drink and the literal translation is “Shit liqueur”. Portugal went through a turbulent period marked by the struggle bewteen left and right. It was made to “honour” the government and, despite being a milk licor, it is said that it’s made with the best different types of shit.

Square Martim Moniz Kiosk ‘A Preta’¬†: here you can enjoy sun and music (DJ is¬†Rycardo)

YouTube Square Martim Moniz Lisbon

On Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ ( Soul, Funcky, Reggae, World Music, Jazz and more..)¬†to liven up the square and to get you in the mood for the weekend.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: people are invited to dance for ONE BILLION RISING

There’s also a stage on the square, always ready to host concerts, lectures, workshops and much more….. A Fun Track is also available in one of the kiosks, which rents pedal karts, streetsurfing boards, scooters, skateboards and roller skates for both children and adults.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, Christmas period

Every day the kiosks are¬†open from 10:00 till midnight.¬†On Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ . Every Saturday and Sunday a Fusion market is held here, Mercado de fus√£o (10h √†s 19h), bringing together the Martim Moniz retail trade with famous shops in the city.

Near this square is the starting point of the legendary tram 28.

Knight & hero Martim Moniz

Stylized depiction in the square Martim Moniz metro station

Hotel Mundal rooftop terrace Ans de Graaf Jan 16

Saint Jorge Castle Lisbon: view from rooftop terrace hotel Mundial square Martim Moniz & Ans de Graaf from Holland

History Saint Jorge Castle & hero Martim Moniz

Who was Martim Moniz? He was a hero! He sacrificed himself in 1147. According to the legend, Martim Moniz was a knight participating in the Christian invasion force, led by king Afonso I of Portugal. At one point in the siege of São Jorge Castle, he saw the Moors closing the castle doors. He led an attack on the doors, and sacrificed himself by lodging himself in the doorway, preventing the defenders from fully closing the door.

Rob Plews December 2012 Praca Martim Moniz kiosk A Preta

Friend Rob Plews: square Martim Moniz Lisbon 2016

Lisbon Rossio Square: history cafe Suíça, shoeshine boys & begging hands

The beautiful and very popular tourist attraction Rossio Square, the popular name of the Pedro IV Square (Praça de D. Pedro IV), has been the setting of popular revolts and celebrations, bullfights and executions.

Rossio Lisbon Shoe shine boy

Rossio square 

Nowadays Rossio square is a preferred meeting place of Lisbon natives and tourists alike and the most congested area for traffic in the city center.

Lisbon Rossio Square

Rossio Square Lisbon

This square has been a meeting place for people of Lisbon for centuries. Some of the cafés and shops of the square date from the 18th century, like the Café Nicola, where Barbosa du Bocage , a Portuguese poet, used to meet friends.

Lisbon cafe Nicola Rossio Square

Famous Café Nicola, Praça Dom Pedro IV 26 (founded in 1929).

It was here that the first Portuguese women dared to break the male stranglehold on cafe-going.¬†¬†Rossio’s cafes are popular for sitting and watching the world go by.

Lisbon Rossio Pastelaria Suica inside

Pastelaria Suíça, Praça Dom Pedro IV 101

UPDATE September 1, 2018

On August 31, 2018 Pastelaria Suiça Рa veritable symbol of Rossio Рclosed its doors forever. It is said a 5  star hotel will be built here ..

Pastelaria Suíça was a traditional Portuguese cafe/restaurant, famous for its huge variety of delicious cakes and pastries.

Lisbon Pastelaria Suica delicious cakes

Pastelaria Suíça, Praça Dom Pedro IV 101

During World War II this place (Suíça means Switzerland) was the meeting point where those in exile negotiated their tickets to freedom.

Lisbon Patelaria Suica Rossio

Pastelaria Suíça terrace, Praça D. Pedro IV 96/101.

Be aware of pickpockets

Locals appreciate this cafe/restaurant just as much as tourists. The waiters are not always very nice. Being a tourist, be aware of pickpockets: while enjoying a delicious c√°lice de vinho do Porto (a glass of Port Wine), somebody tried to steel my friend’s bag from under her chair. Happily a friendly waiter warned us just in time! Be aware when you visit touristical attractions and terraces.

Nearby you can taste a Ginjinha, a liqueur made of a cherry-like berry, a typical Lisbon spirit.

Kisbon Praca da Figueria view from terrace Suica

From cafe/restaurant Pastelaria Suica ‘s terrace at the back a view of the square Pra√ßa da Figueira (English: Square of the Fig Tree) and the S√£o Jorge Castle.

Lisbon Suica Pastelaria street performance living statue

Street performances (‘living statue’), newspaper vendors, street traders (offering cheap watches or ‘jewellery’), lottery ticket sellers, ‘psssst drugs’ sellers and begging hands……….also some lovely shops, like the unique hatmakers shop Chapelaria Azevedo Rua (opened in 1886)

And, of course, in wintertime, the unmistakeable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas)

Lisbon Rossio lottery ticket sellers

Lisbon Rossio lottery ticket seller