Lisbon: discover area Mouraria, cheap restaurants, shops, bars, art, sexy & fado

Mouraria is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Cafe/restaurant Minutos Gulosos‘ (‘greedy moments’), Largo das Olarias no. 1 : great for breakfast ! Cafe € 0.55, fresh juice € 2.20, sandwich € 1.40

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.  Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 . Facebook 

YouTube: a walk through Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Area Mouraria in the month of June:  Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints, Lisbon’s craziest night).

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon. Still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas.

 

Very popular Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahler (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahler

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar Flamingo reopened in May 2018.   

Facebook

Open air bar TOPO

Spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ bar ‘TOPO’ (Top) overlooking popular square Martim Moniz.

Rooftop restaurant/ open air bar ‘TOPO’

Closed: Monday. Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music).

MORE information….

Where: Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Restaurant owner José Maria

Restaurant ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58, Lisbon

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese dishes! 
Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

MORE about this small cafe/restaurant….

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda area Mouraria Lisbon

Bill for 3 persons around 30 euro. Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Tiny restaurant, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros: 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno

Cozy terrace in a courtyard 🙂 . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).  Very friendly owners​.

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Our bill for 3 persons 27 euro: grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno & bakery Doce Mila area Mouraria Lisbon

Fado Vadio (amateur fado singers)

On all Saturdays there’s Fado Vadio in restaurant Beco do Forno: from 13:00 – 18:00. Lunch menu (3 courses,  15.50 €).      Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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It is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza ,  started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times. Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , where great names of fado music were born, like femme fatale Maria da Severa (nearby a fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Football

Owner is Vanessa Correia, born and raised in the neighborhood. Locals like to get together to watch football, very important in Portugal! Typically Portuguese, varied grilled dishes or petiscos (portuguese tapas).

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 
Rua da Guia, 4A/BMouraria, Lisbon. € 20 for 2 persons. 
Cafe € 0.60, beer € 1.00. WiFi. Cash only.
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The Food Temple: Vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seating on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

My apartment in Mouraria Lisbon (short-term rental). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Looking for a great place to stay in historic area Mouraria? Check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio  🙂

Area Mouraria is easy to reach: close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

YouTube: area Mouraria Lisbon

Lisbon LX FACTORY: Sunday 2nd hand hippie chic market, Arts center & restaurants

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon: restaurants in summertime & Sunday 2nd hand market

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history. YouTube      More information

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly open air market

Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Every Sunday an open air market is held, selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube Sunday LX market

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon: several great restaurants & affordable prices

Lively and exciting cultural area full of art studios, bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open.

A cool hangout zone!

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. read  slowly, website with a virtual tour) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) Lisbon: fantastic food & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

10 minutes walk from this little square: my authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio in Mouraria (short term rentals).

2016: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) & beautiful little fountain

Knitted graffiti

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia among others, and homemade cakes.

August 2018: Dorade (larded with peppers)  € 12, 50. Delicious!

Entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; um copo de vinho tinto/vinho branco (a glass of red or white wine) € 2,60;  small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

Home made chocolate cake  € 3:60

When entering restaurant O Corvo it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another, greater room. The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2018:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ Lisbon & Margriet de Vrieze

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Largo dos Trigueiros 15A-15B Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂

Príncipe Real Lisbon: centuries-old trees, shadowed terraces, designer shops & Saturday biological market

The park in area Príncipe Real in Lisbon is a gorgeous location! Centuries-old beautiful trees and shadowed terraces . Besides: a biological market is held here every Saturday morning 🙂

This century-old cedar ‘umbrella’ (20 meters) tree is really amazing!

Park Príncipe Real (Royal Prince) Lisboncharming & quiet  area

Beautiful trees and terraces to drink your bica (espresso), and besides not expensive ! The atmosphere is very relaxed.

Park Príncipe Real Lisbon. Picture: Rufus Ketting

This park is an extension of area Bairro Alto, in which plenty of bars and (also gay) clubs are in easy reach.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon 

Park Príncipe Real, and the nearby Botanical Garden of the University of Lisbon (one of Europe’s finest!) are great for relaxing.

Shopping & renovated historical buildings

Designer boutiques and art galleries are housing in wonderful renovated historical buildings.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon, Saturday biological market: Pedro & Dina

The small Moorish kiosk is one of the lovely designed kiosks (quiosque) in Lisbon, serving old-fashioned Portuguese refreshments and snacks.

On August 6, 711 Lisbon was taken by the Moors, 400 years later the city returned to Christian rule.  Nowadays the Moorish influence is still present.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon: Saturday biological market

Looking for a great place to stay in Lisbon ? Check the availability calendar of my  3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in Mouraria historic Lisbon

Biological market every Saturday from 9:00-3:00

Around the park, the Biological Products Fair (Feira de Produtos Biológicos) is held every week on Saturdays at Jardim França Borges, commonly known as Jardim do Príncipe Real.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon: Saturday biological market

At Lisbon’s weekly organic farmers market producers from all around the country sell most varied natural products, from vegetables to cosmetics, honey and wine. Bargaining is always possible and appropriate.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon & home made compotes ‘doces da Paulinha’

‘Doces da Paulinha’ (sweet and savory): traditional flavors, with organic products, handcrafted with love . Facebook

Restaurants

There are several good places to have lunch or dinner, such as one of my favorites, Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero with a lovely outdour dining area, or trendy restaurantO Prego da Peixaria:  excellent steak or fish.

Lisbon Principe Real Rua dom Pedro V Cunha Palace

Rua dom Pedro V, no. 26 : Arabesque Ribeiro da Cunha Palace (1877)

Principe Real’s Rua dom Pedro V  is one of the most interesting streets of Lisbon to walk around. In recent years, the neighborhood has become a great place to shop .

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real

There are incredible stores, such as Embaixada (the Embassy), ​​which was built in 1877 and now houses design shops, fashion and gastronomy in wonderful spaces.   Website

YouTube : the Rebirth of Lisbon’s Principe Real District

Shopping store Embaixada is located in Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, a XIX century new-Arabian Palace, one of the most iconic buildings in this neighbourhood. Facebook

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real,  no. 26 Lisbon

Park Príncipe Real Lisbon

TOPO Chiado rooftop bar restaurant Lisbon: panoramic city views, Carmo church ruins & lounging

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado in Lisbon can be found at a surprising location: behind the ruins of convent Convento do Carmo

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Graça district

Two historical monuments of Lisbon

The terraces around the Carmo church are a bit hidden in the center of Lisbon, between two historical monuments : convent Convento do Carmo and  Santa Justa Elevator, both very popular tourist attractions.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & Carmo church

10 minutes walk from here there’s TOPO rooftop restaurant & open air bar, located on the 6th floor of square Martim Moniz Shopping Center, with spectacular views of the  castle of Saint George ( São Jorge) and a part of the city.

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon

TOPO Chiado esplanade with bar,  and a restaurant on a higher level where dishes are served, like snacks, salades and burgers.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Santa Justa Lift

Carmo Convent Lisbon & horror of earthquake in 1755

Carmo Convent is an old gothic cathedral that was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and fire that destroyed much of Lisbon. The ruins represent a memory of that tragedy.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture: Georges Jansoone, Wikipedia

Archaeological museum 

An archaeological museum is housed in the old altar and has an eclectic collection of treasures that include eerie South American mummies.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture:  Wikipedia

From 1 – 30 June 2018: The ruins of the Convento do Carmo will be the screen for a video mapping that will explore more than 600 years of Lisbon’s and Portugal’s history (also in English). MORE…

Article LisbonLux: more info and pictures…

Tickets & visitor information

Square Largo do Carmo Lisbon. More……

Across from the convent entrance is a monumental drinking fountain (late 1700s).

Bar restaurant TOPO Chiado
OPEN: every day from 12:00 – 24:00
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TOPO Chiado Lisbon & friend Margarethe de Vrieze Sept. 2017
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Lisbon tourist guide Josephine: Mouraria, narrow Moorish streets & drinking Ginja

Josephine Lucassen is a professional guide, licensed by the city of Lisbon. She loves it to organise private walking tours for a group of tourists in this old and wonderful city!

Mouraria, Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão & Josephine Lucassen, guide

Example: a walking tour through the oldest parts of Lisbon, the popular districts of Alfama and Mouraria, the ancient areas that have survived the earthquake of 1755.

The many winding alleys still show the traces of the Moorish domination (from 711-1108). It is said that Fado music was born in Mouraria around 1820.

São Cristóvão (St. Christopher’s) Church in Mouraria Lisbon

Walk in historic Mouraria area March 18 & NV Lissabon members

My authentic apartment  is for rent in this area: 3 bedrooms and a lovely quiet patio (30 m2) (Dutch owner)

Mouraria Lisbon: stairs to Rua de São Cristóvão

The best way to start this walk is from Rua da Madalena and then climb the stairs Escadinhas de São Cristóvão.

Mouraria Lisbon: Rua de São Cristóvão in wintertime

Josephine: “I was born in Holland in a small village in Drente. After some travel jobs (f.e. Hotelplan) I prefered to live in Portugal. I’m happily married to a sympathetic Portuguese man, Jorge. Together we have 2 children. My curiosity and also the beauty of Portugal made me decide to study at the University of Lisbon. Now I am a professional,  licenced tourist guide with a lot of experience and a passion for history”.

Artisanat Portugais vintage & curiosites

‘A Loja’: Artisanat Portugais, vintage & Curiosités, Rua de São Cristóvão 3

Josephine: “On the corner of this street there’s a nice shop for tourists with typical Portuguese pottery and much more. We continue our walk in the small alleys of the Mouraria area and then we enjoy a drink in one of the pubs: the famous Portuguese liqueur Ginja (or Ginjinha), a must when you visit Lisbon!”

A sua saúde! (cheers!) Josephine in Mouraria Lisbon, area with lots of old bars and narrow streets.

Ginjinha, or simply Ginja, is a liqueur made of a cherry-like berry called (not surprisingly) Ginja. The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky. It is a favourite liqueur of many Portuguese. You can order a Ginja for little money, with or without a cherry in it.

Mouraria Lisbon: historical area with tiny steets and small bars

Fado

Josephine: “Now we walk to Rua do Capelão, to visit the house of the first fadista, Maria Severa. Maria died very young after a passionate liaison with a nobleman in 1846. Also born in Mouraria: Mariza. Amália Rodrigues, ‘queen of Fado’ was born nearby. Fado house Maria da Mouraria

Mouraria, Lisbon, a hidden place: beautiful very old tiles (azulejos)

Portugal is famous for its decorative tiles (azulejos). In Mouraria there’s a hidden place where you find beautiful tiles representing biblical- and scenes of Portugal’s rich history and culture. Azulejos are found on the interior and exterior of churches, palaces and ordinary houses.

Square Martim Moniz February 2013: Kiosk ‘A Preta’:  João (Johnny)

Josephine: “Then we finish our trip enjoying a drink in the sun at square Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and food kiosks. This is where the historic Mouraria neighborhood starts, a multicultural area. The food here is also very good.

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: Kiosk ‘A Preta’: guide Josephine & ???

This man, for both of us completely unknown, asked me to make a picture of him together with this beautiful lady  🙂

Starting point legendary tram 28

This square Martim Moniz is also the starting point for the legendary tram 28, a ‘must- do’ Lisbon attraction.

Alfama, historical area in Lisbon: Escadinhas Santo Estêvão

Private city walking tours

Josephine: “For some years I organize private walking tours for groups. Many tourists miss the hidden gems of Lisbon, simply because they did not know about them!

Lisbon river Tagus viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Catarina or Adamastor

Josephine: “Another idea for a 4-hour walking tour is a start near the river Tagus: Cais do Sodré, famous fish market Mercado do Ribeiro, cute and famous little tram to the top of the Bica area, river Tagus viewpoint Santa Catarina, bohemien neighborhood Bairro Alto, along Sao Bento palace, park in Principe Real with one of the oldest cedar trees in Lisbon. Finally Rossio, a wonderful square with historical buildings and of course: liqueur Ginja!

Tourist attraction Lisbon: sculpture Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl more than 75 years after his dead….

Tailored Tours

“How about a tour tailored to your specific needs? A walking full day tour combined with old trams and funiculars would be a perfect idea”.

Price: from € 15, 00 per person (4 hours) Full day tour € 25 pp.  Minimum 4 people (max. 10).

Mail josephinelucassen@yahoo.com or call: 00351 966 361 983 . Facebook

“My favorite place in Lisbon? Pffffffff, not easy, one of them is river viewpoint Portas do Sol, especially by night…..amazing!”

Tagus river viewpoint (Miradouro) Portas do Sol, Alfama Lisbon

National palace Queluz Lisbon area: Rococo style, sexual orgies, Secret Histories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil.

Information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire & smallpox

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria‘s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia

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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Worth a visit!

Short term rentals: my 3 bedroom apartment in Lisbon with lovely patio (100 m2):  5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: 

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

Historic square Intendente Lisbon: Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ & lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Largo Intendente Lisbon September 2018

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

Elegant tea- and lunchroom ‘Versailles’ Lisbon: old-fashioned service & funny pastries

If you like to visit one museum during your stay in Lisbon make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria, Pâtisserie) Versailles Lisbon september 2017

Elegant tea- and lunchroom Versailles (from 1922)

After visiting the Gulbekian Museum, a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the famous Portuguese Pasteis de natas.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon & delicious funny ‘bird’ pastries 😉

Elegant setting in informal and friendly atmosphere

The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…!

Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 : NV Lissabon

History

When lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 in the year 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon.

Construction fury first halve of 20th century

The construction fury replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylish houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today’s unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, but happily PastelariaVersailles’ is still there!  🙂 🙂

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Silver-plated tea sets

The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass.

As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea sets. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon , February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ & part of national heritage

Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the ‘grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ was recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662.

Lunch, served in a back room, is of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.

Pastelaria Versailles street 2

Entrance tea- and lunchroom Versailles in Lisbon

Tea and lunchroom Versailles Lisbon
Open: daily from 7:30 till 22:00 
Metro: Saldanha.

Versailles 3 window dressing

Window dressing Pastelaria Versailles representing Portugal and former colonies

Short term rentals: my 3-bedroom apartment (105 m2) with lovely patio in historical area Mouraria
 

Former Palace Chiado (1781) Lisbon: 7 chefs, 7 gastronimical areas, fine food & history

The atmosphere is great in this former palace in the heart of Lisbon. Once the recidence of a nobleman who loved to party, now everyone is welcome to admire the beautifully restored rooms, while enjoying fine food and drinks.

Lisbon Chiado Palace Chiado Delisbon Aelio

Welcome! Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & very nice waiter Aélio, April 2016

History: Barão (Baron) Joaquim Pedro Quintela, 1st Conde de Farrobo

This elegant palace in Chiado (name of a square and its surrounding area) in Lisbon was built in 1781, where the aristocracy and bons vivants danced, enjoyed lavish banquets and admired new works of art. Baron de Quintela was born in this palace.

Lisbon Palacio Chiado wonderful restored April 2016 Mobile phone

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016 (& a mobile phone….. )

Baron de Quintela: excesses and inordinate feasting

The future 2nd Baron of Quintela and 1st Conde of Farrobo was born in this palace, on 11 December 1801. Despite his importance in political, social and cultural life in Portugal at the time, he will always be remembered for his excesses and revels.

And intrinsically associated with the palace is the famous Portuguese expression ‘farrobodó‘ (from ‘forrobodó’ which literally means having a great party 😉 ).

More about the palace and its history…..

Lisbon Palacio Chiado wonderful restored April 2016 2

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016

Renewed Palácio Chiado opened February 2016: fine dining & entertainment

The former home of Baron Quintela opened to the public under the name Palácio Chiado.
The restoration works took more then one and a half year. The historic rooms nowadays host alternatives for fine dining and other forms of entertainment for Lisbon residents and visitors. The palace will also have a varied cultural program.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, 1st floor April 2016

7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts

On the ground floor is a bar, with tables for dining, but simply chill out with a drink is also a possibility. There are seven chefs and their 7 gastronimical concepts, from sushi to burgers, and about 250 seats. The idea is to grab the plate and sit where you want.

It feels a bit like Time Out Ribeira Market in a more sophisticated setting.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 teacupsand small wooden forks

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & tea for 2 and a chocolate cake

Tea bags & small wooden cake forks

We decided to order tea for two (1 st floor) and a small chocolate cake to share, because we just had lunch in another restaurant in Lisbon.

In this elegant palace with grandeur and beautiful frescoed ceilings we expected an elegant soft pastel designed tea set and gold colored spoons, but not just teabags to dip in our cups and small wooden cake forks to eat the cake?  😉 😉

Chá (tea) for 2: 4 euro. Bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) 2.50 euro

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 fresco ceiling2

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & one of the beautiful frescoed ceilings

Restaurants:

The historic salons of the Palácio Chiado now host seven prestigious fine dining area’s.

Traditional Portuguese snacks (petiscos), cocktails & sparkling wines with fish and shellfish, hamburgers, steaks, light and healthy meals, seafood and sushi.

More details about the restaurants

palace-chiado-lisbon-tapas-erika-reusens

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & Erika Reusens

Palácio Chiado Lisbon: really worth a visit!
Rua do Alecrim, 70 – Lisbon
Wonderful Website (also in Enlish)   FACEBOOK
Sunday till Wednesday from 12:00 – 24:00
Thursday till Saturday from 12:00- 02:00

Video inauguration of the Chiado Palace with hundreds of guests

Despite occupying a considerable area of Rua do Alecrim, the Palace has only one entry, at number 70.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 sushi restaurant

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon

Baron Quintela Room for private events (your own aristocratic party? 😉 )

Seating 16 to 25, Quintela Room can be hired for private events, for a discreet meal, a dinner with friends, or professional events. More…..

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 DINING AREA

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & dining area