National palace in Queluz Lisbon: Rococo style, sexual orgies, Portuguese kings, Secret Histories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil. The information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & some tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire 

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria’s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia
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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Worth a visit!

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

 

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) area Mouraria Lisbon: great food & a sweater-wearing tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

10 minutes walk from this little square: my authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio in Mouraria (short term rentals).

2016: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree & graffiti knitting

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia (delicious!) among others, and homemade cakes.

Our lunch:  entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; um copo de vinho tinto (a glass of red wine) € 2,60; um copo de vinho branco (a glass of white wine) € 2,60, small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

When entering it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another greater room. ‘The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, Largo dos Trigueiros in Lisbon

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Largo dos Trigueiros 15A-15B Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂

Elegant tea- and lunchroom ‘Versailles’ Lisbon: outstanding old-fashioned service & funny whipped cream pastries

If you like to visit one museum during your stay in Lisbon make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria, Pâtisserie) Versailles Lisbon september 2017

Elegant tea- and lunchroom Versailles (from 1922)

After visiting the Gulbekian Museum, a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the famous Portuguese Pasteis de natas.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon & delicious funny ‘bird’ pastries 😉

Elegant setting in informal and friendly atmosphere

The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…!

Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 : NV Lissabon

History

When lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 in the year 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon.

Construction fury first halve of 20th century

The construction fury replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylish houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today’s unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, but happily PastelariaVersailles’ is still there!  🙂 🙂

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Silver-plated tea sets

The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass.

As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea sets. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon , February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ & part of national heritage

Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the ‘grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ was recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662.

Lunch, served in a back room, is of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.

Pastelaria Versailles street 2

Entrance tea- and lunchroom Versailles in Lisbon

Tea and lunchroom Versailles Lisbon
Open: daily from 7:30 till 22:00 
Metro: Saldanha.

Versailles 3 window dressing

Window dressing Pastelaria Versailles representing Portugal and former colonies

Short term rentals: my 3-bedroom apartment (105 m2) with lovely patio in historical area Mouraria
 

Trendy square Intendente Lisbon: Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine’, former grandeur & a lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit wonderful Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria, formerly a place of prostitution and drugs. Nowadays this place is very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Largo do Indendente Mouraria Lisbon winter 2014 Ans ansd Loek

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon, in February

Dutch friends Ans de Graaf en Loek Polack.

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Even in wintertime it can be good weather in Lisbon with daytime temperatures that average over 15°C .

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

The place to be for all authentic & lovely Portuguese items, quite expensive

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, square Intendente Lisbon

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Lisbon Largo Intendente Shop 'A Vida Portuguesa' 2014

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon & famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. Although originally built as a private residence, it now belongs to the Viúva Lamego ceramic factory which displays its art inside. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East. One of the  Top Ten façades of Lisbon.

Facebook Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

 

Lisbon LX FACTORY: 2nd hand & hippie chic market, Arts center, cool restaurants & Madeira bread

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon & restaurants in summertime

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history. More….

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly open air market

Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Every Sunday an open air market is held, selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube LX market

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon: several great restaurants & affordable prices

Lively and exciting cultural area full of art studios, bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open.

A cool hangout zone!

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. read  slowly, website with a virtual tour) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Village Underground Lisbon: great food in a retro dubble-decker bus beneath 25 April Bridge, street art, events, partys, creative community & Polly Robbins

How about a delicious dinner in a dubble-decker retro bus beneath the 25th April Bridge? A great experience, but Village Underground in Lisbon offers much more! It’s a coworking center for creative- and event industries located at the Santo Amaro station in Alcântara, next to the Carris vintage trams & buses Museum.

village-underground-lisbon-1

Village Underground Lisbon in summertime

Lisbon: the hippest place to be

For years, Lisbon was somewhat off the beaten track for young travellers, or millennials seeking a new home. The Portuguese capital crumbled romantically while London, Paris, Barcelona and more recently Berlin enjoyed the cultural status. Yet in the last 10 years the city has seen an explosion in culture, tourism and entrepreneurialism, and is now surpassing its European rivals as the hippest place to be!

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The Village Underground in Lisbon & Polly Robbins, November 2016

Who are you and how have you found yourself at Village Underground?

Polly Robbins: “I come from London. I love London, but the pace of life is crazy and I felt like spending some time in another European capital. Lisbon particularly attracted me because I’m interested in urban cultural development. I studied sociology, looking at how art movements develop in cities, and for the last 3 years I’ve been running a business in London that takes over empty spaces and makes them into venues for culture”.

village-underground-lisbon-dubble-decker-buses-and-containers-3

Village Underground Lisbon

Ex-pats & tourists in Lisbon

Polly Robbins: ‘I heard about Village Underground Lisbon from a contact who knows the London branch. So I contacted Mariana (Director VU), got some funding from the EU Erasmus Young Entrepreneurs scheme, and here I am. At Village Underground I am developing marketing and communications, specifically for the ex-pat and tourists in Lisbon. I’m also developing ways for the co-working community to share their skills and feel more part of a community”.

village-underground-lisbon-live-music

Village Underground Lisbon

So what is Village Underground?

Polly:” It’s a project that began in London in 2009 when a group of friends had a crazy idea to hoist to some decommissioned tube train carriages onto the roof of a building and create a co-working space in Shoreditch. Mariana Duarte Silva, who is the Director of Village Underground Lisbon, was working in London when she came across the space and took a desk to set up her own music agency. She fell in love with it and brought the concept back to Lisbon, where the doors opened in 2012″.

village-underground-lisbon-dubble-decker-bus

Village Underground Lisbon & one of the retro dubble-decker buses

Creative community

Polly: “Village Underground Lisboa sits at the end of the municipal tram yard, beneath the iconic Ponte 25 de Abril. It consists of 14 shipping containers which act as a co-working space for the creative industries. There are about 35 people working here, in web design, graphic design, video making, branding, theatre and music”.

village-underground-lisbon-dubble-decker-bus-december-16-2

Village Underground Lisbon & one of the dubble-decker retro buses, November 2016

Cafe/restaurant & events from January 2017

“There are 2 converted retro buses, one is a café, open to the public every lunchtime and for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. And in addition, there’s a warehouse space used for events and exhibitions, a recording studio, a large space outside used for events and a skate ramp.

There is a great range of events going on at Village Underground, from parties with electronic and live music, to markets, to exhibitions and performance. Starting January 2017 these will be hosted every Friday and Saturday”.

village-underground-lisbon-dinner-dubble-decker-bus-december-2nd-16

Village Underground Lisbon & delicious dinner in a dubble-decker retro bus 🙂

Tasty food & affordable prices

Our dinner: tapas; Peixe (fish): Moqueca de camarão com arroz selvagem (shrimp Moqueca with wild rice)Chili com carne com basmati de coentros (Cili con carne, basmati rice with coriander): wine , water, sobremesa (dessert). Bill: 77 euro (3 persons). A vegetarian dish is also available.

village-underground-lisbon-dinner-dubble-decker-bus-december-16-view-window

Village Underground Lisbon & a group of visitors

Why should people visit Village Underground?

Polly: “It’s a really interesting space to be in physically, particularly if you like to be surrounded by cool architecture, street art and disused trams and buses! The café serves incredibly tasty food and the team working there is lovely. The people who gravitate towards Village Underground are an amazing bunch – I’ve been warmly welcomed! They come from all walks of life and you don’t have to be chatting too long before you discover that they’re involved in all sorts of weird and wonderful projects”

Village Underground Lisbon delicious lunch January 2017

Village Underground Lisbon & delicious lunch in a dubble-decker retro bus

Muito obrigada! Great food & great service 🙂 🙂

Mafalda Rodrigues, Tania Pines & Mafalda Pais

Village Underground Lisbon delicious lunch January 2017 2

Village Underground Lisbon & delicious lunch in a dubble-decker retro bus

Vegetarian dish, sandwich with salmon, sweet potatoes, 2 glasses of wine, small bottle of water & coffee: 18 euro

 

Village Underground Lisbon

Both the interior and the terrace have free Wi-Fi. There is free parkingThe only entrance to the Cafeteria is the main gate of the Carris Museum, located at Rua Primeiro de Maio, 103.

Restaurant Bairro do Avillez Lisbon tavern & gourmet store: one of a kind, spectacular decorated patio & very tasty dishes

José Avillez’ new restaurant in Lisbon, Bairro do Avillez (Avillez’ ‘neighborhood’) is located in Chiado. A spacious and spectacular location, with 2 separated seating areas.

restaurant-bairro-do-avillez-lisbon-window-erika-pateo-2016

Patio Restaurant Bairro do Avillez decorated as a traditional downtown Lisbon neighborhood & ‘neighbor’ Erika Reusens 😉

 2 Michelin stars

José Avillez is one of the most renowned chefs in Portugal. He currently owns six restaurants, five in Lisbon and one in Oporto. His cooking style, contemporary and of Portuguese inspiration, has earned him a Michelin star in 2012 (restaurant Belcanto in Lisbon) and, in 2014, it received a second one, making it the first restaurant in Lisbon to have this honour).

restaurant-bairro-do-avillez-lisbon-wonderful-pateo-typical-lisbon-neighborhood

Restaurant Bairro do Avillez Lisbon & wonderful decorated spacious patio

Patio restaurant representing a traditional Lisbon neighborhood

The Patio restaurant is really surprising: a huge open kitchen and a wonderful creative decoration. A large skylight lets in plenty of natural light. There are different doors, typical Portuguese tiles and closed- or open windows to give you the idea of being in a traditional downtown Lisbon neighborhood, where people often hanging out of their windows. YouTube

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Restaurant Bairro do Avillez Lisbon & our dinner end of August 2016

Our dinner: 2 couvert 7.00, Bife de Lombo (tenderloin steak) 18.00; Legumes Salteados (sautéed vegetables) 4.00; French fries € 3.00; 1 Bife Tártaro (tartar steak) € 14.00; água Vitalis (bottle of water) 3.00; Wine: Casa Passarella (bottle of white wine) 16.00; (by the glass 4.00). Desert: Avelã (hazelnut cream); Mil Folhas Pastel de Nata 6.00 (litt. ‘thousand sheets’ Pastel de Nata (famous Portuguese egg tart pastry) 6.00.

Bill for 2 persons: 91.00.

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Restaurant Bairro do Avillez Lisbon & delicious desserts

Bairro Avillez patio restaurant: tasty dishes & great ambiance

Once we were seated it took quite some time before a waiter came to our table. This restaurant just opened its doors, it’s understandable. The food was tasty, rather expensive in Lisbon (ca. € 45 p.p.), but the great ambiance was worth it!  🙂

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Restaurant Bairro do Avillez Lisbon & Taberna (Tavern)

Three concepts in one space: restaurant, tavern & grocery/gift store

Once you enter number 18 of Rua Nova da Trindade there’s the Taberna (tavern), a good idea to enjoy lunch, dinner or an ‘in-between’ snack in the afternoon. In de Tavern it is not possible to make reservations.

Mercearia (grocery & gift store)

Not just cheeses, sausages and canned goods but also kitchen accessories, books and aprons. More…... (website José Avillez). The charcuterie specialties rely on the advice of the illustrious shop in Lisbon:  Manteigaria Silva’.

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Restaurant ‘Bairro’ do Avillez Lisbon & the grocery store’s creative decoration

Bairro do Avillez, Rua Nova da Trindade 18. Lisbon

Opening hours: Taberna (tavern) & Mercearia (grocery/gift shop): daily from 12:00 pm till midnight.

Patio restaurant: daily, from 12:00 pm to 15:00 pm and from 19:00 pm till midnight. Closed on public holidays, December 24 (dinner) and 25. Phone: (351) 215 830 290 (reservations). Facebook

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Patio Restaurant Bairro do Avillez Lisbon, Erika Reusens & the friendly waitress

Former Palace Chiado Lisbon built in 1781: 7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts, elegant 18th-century rooms, frescoed ceilings & tea bags

The atmosphere is great in this former palace in the heart of Lisbon. Once the recidence of a nobleman who loved to party, now everyone is welcome to admire the beautifully restored rooms, while enjoying fine food and drinks.

Lisbon Chiado Palace Chiado Delisbon Aelio

Welcome! Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & very nice waiter Aélio, April 2016

History: Barão (Baron) Joaquim Pedro Quintela, 1st Conde de Farrobo

This elegant palace in Chiado (name of a square and its surrounding area) in Lisbon was built in 1781, where the aristocracy and bons vivants danced, enjoyed lavish banquets and admired new works of art. Baron de Quintela was born in this palace.

Lisbon Palacio Chiado wonderful restored April 2016 Mobile phone

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016 (& a mobile phone….. )

Baron de Quintela: excesses and inordinate feasting

The future 2nd Baron of Quintela and 1st Conde of Farrobo was born in this palace, on 11 December 1801. Despite his importance in political, social and cultural life in Portugal at the time, he will always be remembered for his excesses and revels.

And intrinsically associated with the palace is the famous Portuguese expression ‘farrobodó‘ (from ‘forrobodó’ which literally means having a great party 😉 ).

More about the palace and its history…..

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Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016

Renewed Palácio Chiado opened February 2016: fine dining & entertainment

The former home of Baron Quintela opened to the public under the name Palácio Chiado.
The restoration works took more then one and a half year. The historic rooms nowadays host alternatives for fine dining and other forms of entertainment for Lisbon residents and visitors. The palace will also have a varied cultural program.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, 1st floor April 2016

7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts

On the ground floor is a bar, with tables for dining, but simply chill out with a drink is also a possibility. There are seven chefs and their 7 gastronimical concepts, from sushi to burgers, and about 250 seats. The idea is to grab the plate and sit where you want.

It feels a bit like Time Out Ribeira Market in a more sophisticated setting.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 teacupsand small wooden forks

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & tea for 2 and a chocolate cake

Tea bags & small wooden cake forks

We decided to order tea for two (1 st floor) and a small chocolate cake to share, because we just had lunch in another restaurant in Lisbon.

In this elegant palace with grandeur and beautiful frescoed ceilings we expected an elegant soft pastel designed tea set and gold colored spoons, but not just teabags to dip in our cups and small wooden cake forks to eat the cake?  😉 😉

Chá (tea) for 2: 4 euro. Bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) 2.50 euro

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Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & one of the beautiful frescoed ceilings

Restaurants:

The historic salons of the Palácio Chiado now host seven prestigious fine dining area’s.

Traditional Portuguese snacks (petiscos), cocktails & sparkling wines with fish and shellfish, hamburgers, steaks, light and healthy meals, seafood and sushi.

More details about the restaurants

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Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & friend Erika Reusens

Palácio Chiado Lisbon: really worth a visit!
Rua do Alecrim, 70 – Lisbon
Wonderful Website (also in Enlish)   FACEBOOK
Sunday till Wednesday from 12:00 – 24:00
Thursday till Saturday from 12:00- 02:00

Video inauguration of the Chiado Palace with hundreds of guests

Despite occupying a considerable area of Rua do Alecrim, the Palace has only one entry, at number 70.

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 sushi restaurant

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon

Baron Quintela Room for private events (your own aristocratic party? 😉 )

Seating 16 to 25, Quintela Room can be hired for private events, for a discreet meal, a dinner with friends, or professional events. More…..

Lisbon beautiful Chiado Palace April 2016 DINING AREA

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & dining area

Gastrobar ‘Rio Maravilha’ Lisbon: disappointing experience :-( great Tagus river views & LX old factory buildings

New gastrobar Rio Maravilha (Wonderful River) is situated on the fourth floor of one of the old ‘LXfactory’ buildings in the Alcântara (‘bridge’ in Arabic) district in Lisbon, surrounded by huge windows overlooking the Tagus river, the 25 April bridge and the Cristo Rei statue .

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha LX Lisbon view Tagus river 4th floor

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha Lisbon & wonderful view 25 April bridge from a formerly factory building

Very different from the usual

We didn’t have to wait long before the friendly welcoming staff seated us at a small table near one of the the huge windows: what a wonderful view! The multi flowered designed chairs and the bright pink coloured outfits chosen for the waitresses are quite surprising.

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha LX Lisbon 4th floor flowered chairs 2

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon & the restaurant’s decor

The whole space is very different from the usual. But you can expect this from those who already are experienced of managing remarkable spaces in Lisbon like unique bar ‘Pensao Amor’ in a former red light district and restaurant ‘Casa do Pasto’ , with sophisticated Portuguese cuisine. A few months ago this place, ‘Rio Maravilha’ was opened, influenced by Brazilian flavors.

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Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon: squid salad & grilled mushrooms

We decided to order a few small dishes like Salade de Lulas (squid salad, grilled sweet potatoes, onion and croutons) € 15.60, Cogumelos na Brasa (grilled mushrooms, foliage of sour cream and chestnuts) € 13.70, Ovo BT (egg BT) € 9.80, Hambúrguer de Novilho (veal) € 9.10,  and a bottle of white wine: VB Filoco € 12.00.

Surprising : Ovo BT, a poached egg accompanied by cream cheese with some marmalade, parmesan cheese and ibérico pancetta.

Restaurant RIO Maravilha LX Factory Lisbon wonderful views

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon & wonderful views

Disappointing

The Hambúrguer de Novilho (veal) was not such a good experience: we ate just a little bit of it, due to the unpleasant ‘aftertaste’. According to the waitress nothing was wrong, but both we had no good feeling, also afterwards… (the restaurant is aware of our complaint, they asked to come again to enjoy a better experience, that’s all 🙁  ). BTW: the hamburger was not mentioned on our bill.

Lisbon LX Factory restaurant Rio Maravilho ambiance

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, LX factory Lisbon, entrance & very friendly staff

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha – eating & dancing
Tuesday from 18:00 – 02:00
Wednesday u/i Saturday 12:30 – 02:00 – Sunday: 12:30 -18:00
Closed on Monday – facebook Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX Factory | 4th floor, Lisbon  MORE about this area

Impressive Metro Station area Baixa-Chiado Lisbon: free escalators avoiding stairs from Baixa to Chiado

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado is a unique and impressive subway, opened in 1998, created by architect Álvaro Siza Vieira.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado Rua do Crucifixo entrance

Metro station entrance Baixo-Chiado Lisbon, Rua do Crucifixo.

Metro station Baixo-Chiado is one of the most important transfer stations, and one of the most crowded of Lisbon. New is the extension towards the international Santa Apolónia train station, opening on 19 December 2007, more than five years late due to tunnelling problems at the waterfront.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado entrance tiles

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Beautiful white tiles are covering the station walls.

This metro station has an entrance in the Baixa city center as well as one at a much higher level in the Chiado district, linked by a series of escalators.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalator

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Instead of walking (hundreds of stairs from Baixa to Chiado), an alternative and free way is to use the escalators inside the metro station, reaching the Chiado district ca. 5 minutes later.

Of course, walking is also interesting…..

Metro Station Baixa Chiado metro lines

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

The Lisbon Metro operates from 6h30 to 01.00. Tickets: cheap 🙂

Metropolitano de Lisboa : Lisbon Metro official page. On this webste (also in English) you’ll find a map with a network diagram and explanation of the lines:

Metro Linha Azul (blue line) Metro Linha Amarela (yellow line) Metro Linha Verde (green line) and Metro Linha Vermelha (red line).

Also including a special section on subway art of Lisbon Metro stations with stunning examples of contemporary azulejos (tiles).

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalators up to Chiado

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado

Escalators up to the Chiado district.

Metro station Largo do Chiado Pessoa

Cafe ‘A Brasileira’, Largo do Chiado, near the entrance of the Chiado metro station.

The bronze sculpture of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935),  is still very popular. More…….