Lisbon: discover area Mouraria, cheap restaurants, shops, bars, art, sexy & fado

Mouraria is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Cafe/restaurant Minutos Gulosos‘ (‘greedy moments’), Largo das Olarias no. 1 : great for breakfast ! Cafe € 0.55, fresh juice € 2.20, sandwich € 1.40

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.  Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 . Facebook 

YouTube: a walk through Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Area Mouraria in the month of June:  Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints, Lisbon’s craziest night).

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon. Still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas.

 

Very popular Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahler (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahler

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar Flamingo reopened in May 2018.   

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Open air bar TOPO

Spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ bar ‘TOPO’ (Top) overlooking popular square Martim Moniz.

Rooftop restaurant/ open air bar ‘TOPO’

Closed: Monday. Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music).

MORE information….

Where: Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Restaurant owner José Maria

Restaurant ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58, Lisbon

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese dishes! 
Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

MORE about this small cafe/restaurant….

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda area Mouraria Lisbon

Bill for 3 persons around 30 euro. Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Tiny restaurant, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros: 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno

Cozy terrace in a courtyard 🙂 . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).  Very friendly owners​.

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Our bill for 3 persons 27 euro: grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno & bakery Doce Mila area Mouraria Lisbon

Fado Vadio (amateur fado singers)

On all Saturdays there’s Fado Vadio in restaurant Beco do Forno: from 13:00 – 18:00. Lunch menu (3 courses,  15.50 €).      Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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It is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza ,  started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times. Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , where great names of fado music were born, like femme fatale Maria da Severa (nearby a fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Football

Owner is Vanessa Correia, born and raised in the neighborhood. Locals like to get together to watch football, very important in Portugal! Typically Portuguese, varied grilled dishes or petiscos (portuguese tapas).

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 
Rua da Guia, 4A/BMouraria, Lisbon. € 20 for 2 persons. 
Cafe € 0.60, beer € 1.00. WiFi. Cash only.
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The Food Temple: Vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seating on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

My apartment in Mouraria Lisbon (short-term rental). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Looking for a great place to stay in historic area Mouraria? Check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio  🙂

Area Mouraria is easy to reach: close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

YouTube: area Mouraria Lisbon

Authentiek 3 slpk. appartement (100 m2) hartje Lissabon: heerlijke patio, tot 6 pers. Smart TV & BBQ

Welkom! Nog beschikbaar in de kerstperiode tot 30 december, zie kalender. Prima uitgangspunt om Lissabon te ontdekken, hartje stad, tot 6 pers. Nederlandse eigenaar, verhuur sinds 2006.  Rustige privé patio (30 m2). Met 2 pers. : € 60-70 p.n. , met 3/4 pers. € 80/100 p.n. Vanaf 3 nachten. Bij 6 of meer nachten 10 % korting. Prima (eco) verwarming YouTube: de buurt  .

Privé patio (ommuurd en rustig),  juni 2016

Patio (30 m2) met 2 BBQ’s waar gerookt kan worden.

Hartje historisch Lissabon, maar net buiten de toeristische drukte. Meer over restaurants, bars en winkels in de buurt. Nabij metro plein Martim Moniz vanaf het vliegveld, en startpunt tram 28.

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BESCHIKBAARHEIDS kalender

Mouraria appartement Lissabon, patio augusts 2014: vrienden Rob en Felipe

StraatMouraria, Rua do Terreirinho Lissabon .

Zon op de rustige, privé patio (30 m2) van begin maart tot eind september. Marmeren aanrecht en 2 BBQ’s.

Mei 2018, Songfestival Lissabon: Marijke, Anita, Carla & Sylvia: familie Lollig 😉

Reserveren of meer info (vanaf 3 nachten, vanaf 2 personen. Geen aparte kamers te huur).

Mail naar Julie Kruijs thelisbonconnection@gmail.com  , tel. 0653941845 (ook WhatsApp).

Mouraria appartement Lissabon, patio oktober 2018.

Foto: Mieke Brosky

Het appartement ligt op de 2e etage.

Rustige terrassen vlakbij het appartement: Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lissabon

Foto:  Henk van de Weerd

10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement: het prachtige historische plein Intendente , met terrassen en eetgelegenheden .

Lucky TV: Willy & Max in Lissabon

Kamer Mouraria appartement Lissabon oktober 2017

Aankomsttijd: 15:00, vertrektijd 11:00. 

In gezamenlijk overleg is flexibiliteit mogelijk. Na 22:30 uur inchecken: 15 euro, te betalen bij aankomst.

Januari 2018: nieuwe Smart TV

Fado zangeres Mariza

Zangeres Mariza groeide op in deze wijk YouTube

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon kamer en suite aan de straatkant

Thelisbonconnection:

mijn blog over Lissabon (nuttige- maar ook heel veel aangename info over de stad en omgeving).

Gastvrij Portugal : unieke vakantiehuizen met veelal Nederlandse eigenaren.

  Casa rosa Mouraira Nov 15 2

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho Lissabon .

Voor wie er van houdt tijdelijk tussen de bevolking te vertoeven in een 900 jaar oude volkswijk.

Patio (30 m2) & keuken. Juli 2018. Foto: Margaret Schöttelndreier

120 jaar oud appartement in Mouraria, historisch Lissabon, 2e etage (ca. 110 m2) met 3 slaapkamers, gratis gebruik WiFi en smart TV met o.a. Ned./Belgische zenders. Uitstekende stoelen en bedden. Mobiele airco.

 

Geen nachtelijk café-lawaai, wel komt er bij vlagen verkeer door de nauwe straatjes .

Taxi & metro

Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km. (per taxi € 10-12 incl. bagage). Het appartement is erg makkelijk per metro te bereiken (metro, halte plein Martim Moniz).

BBQ met vrienden Erik Herter en Liesbeth Niebling: dourada 🙂

Startpunt legendarisch trammetje 28,  taxistandplaats en bussen bij plein Martim Moniz is 3 min. lopen.

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon: rustige privé patio (30 m2) met BBQ gedeelte, juni 2017

Castelo de São Jorge ligt op loop afstand.

Appartement Mouraria in historische wijk in Lissabon & keuken, januari 2017

Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica zijn makkelijk bereikbaar.

De legendarische 16e-eeuwse uitgaanswijk Bairro Alto is ca. 15 min. lopen.

Lisbon Mouraria area seen from Costa do Castelo

Mouraria, historische wijk in Lissabon

De wijk Mouraria,  dankt haar naam aan vroegere bezetters, de dominantie van de Moren (Os Mouros).

Het straatje ligt dichtbij twee centrale- en monumentale pleinen Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio in de volksmond) , Praca da Figueira en plein Martim Moniz

Plein Martim Moniz YouTube, lekker eten, live muziek en meer!

Patio (30 m2) , mei 2018. Foto: Rufus Ketting

Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de  ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een oude multiculturele (volks)wijk en toch typisch Portugees, met fado restaurantjes.

Appartement in oude Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: april 2018

Nieuwe sofa 🙂

In de buurt: bakkers met heerlijke verschillende soorten verse broodjes) en onweerstaanbaar lekkere Portugese gebakjes, zoals bijvoorbeeld het beroemde roomtaartje Pastel de Nata: een caloriebom  !

Kamer appartement  Mouraria, Lissabon: lunch met Liesbeth  Niebling & Erik Herter, maart 2018 : erwtensoep 🙂

Restaurantjes in de buurt

De supermarkt is 10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement, er zijn veel kleine winkeltjes in de buurt en typisch Portugese restaurantjes (ca. 10-12 euro p.p.). Het is veelal goedkoper om uit eten te gaan dan om zelf te koken.

Restaurant Rua do Terreirinho 58 José Maria and Laurinda

In het straatje: Restaurantje Jose-Marie en zijn vrouw Laurinda Mouraria

Klimaat & kleding

Het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ‘s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer. .

Mouraria apartment Paula cleaning garden

Mouraria appartement Lissabon: Paula Ferreira verzorgt de (uitstekende) schoonmaak

Tickets: : Ryan Air (vanaf Eindhoven)TAP (Portugese luchtvaart maatschappij),  Transavia.nl,   Easyjet Lissabon,  KLM, Vueling (tip). Route sneltrein door Portugal: Alfa Pendular (online ticket reserveren  vanaf 30 dagen vooraf is mogelijk).

appartementLissabon Foto Emil Roes

Slaapkamer 1 appartement Mouraria Lissabon. Foto: Emil Roes
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Indeling appartement : (woonkamer, 3 slaapkamers met ramen, badkamer, keuken & patio, 30 m2)

  • woonkamer met  2-zits comfortabele bank en grote antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel met 4  stoelen (Linum, ook geschikt voor terras)  en een gemakkelijke extra stoel (Linum). Originele balkenvloer in alle kamers. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidisolerend dubbel glas aan de straatkant. Smart/Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 123 cm, radio, CD-speler, WiFi-aansluiting;
  • 3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat):
  • slaapkamer met 2 een persoons (boxspring, 90×200) bedden, aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast en een gemakkelijke stoel. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidisolerend dubbel glas;
  • tweede rustig gelegen slaapkamer (met raam, uitzicht op de tuin van de buren) en een 2-persoons bed (210×180), antieke linnenkast;
  • derde rustige slaapkamer (met raam naar de patio) en comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200);
  • Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr. en babybadje;
  • badkamer met douche, ligbad, bidet en toilet. Gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid handdoeken van goede kwaliteit (geen strandlakens). Haardroger;
  • donsdekbedden en luxueus bedlinnen (Essenza);
  • keuken met tafel en 2 stoelen, 2 koelkasten, magnetron, 4-pits electrische kookplaat, oven, goede pannen, waterkoker, koffie/Nespresso apparaat, citruspers, (wijn)glazen, borden, bestek, keukenlinnen etc.;
  • zonnige (van half maart tot eind september) en rustige prive patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 2 comfortabele stoelen, 2 bamboe stoeltjes en een zonne/slaap stoel. Comfortabele Linux stoelen uit kamer en slaapkamer kunnen ook buiten gebruikt worden. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2 BBQs  en 2 muurparasols;
  • de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Mobiel airco apparaat. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden via Heatwafer ecopanelen in iedere kamer.

Juni 2018: BBQ met Rob, Felipe, Joanna, Fernando en zoon Aleksander (3)

Tarieven 2018/2019
Mei t/m augustus, feestdagen en vakantieperiodes (10 % korting bij een boeking van 6 nachten of meer). Informeer naar aanbiedingen.
70 € per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen 100, 5/6 pers. €110 . (Vanaf 2 personen te huur).
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September t/m april (m.u.v. feestdagen en vakantieperiodes):
 60-70 euro per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen €80/100, 5/6 personen 110.
10 % korting bij een boeking van 6 nachten of meer.
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Informeer naar aanbiedingen of verhuur voor langere periodes. Kinderkorting in overleg. Kinderen 0-4 jaar gratis. Chicco reis babybed en badje is gratis beschikbaar.
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Alles inbegrepen, excl. schoonmaak 40 euro. De bedden zijn opgemaakt bij aankomst. Mooi bedlinnen (Essenza), ruime voorraad handdoeken (geen grote strandlakens). Prima verwarming in de wintermaanden via Heatwafer panelen in alle 6 kamers € 25 per boeking.
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 Historische buurt Mouraria in Lissabon
de buurvrouwen (as vizinhas). 
Apartment Mouraria Lisbon bathroom 1
Appartement in Mouraria Lissabon: badkamer met wasmachine en droger
WiFi internet (wel eigen laptop(s) meenemen) en satelliet TV met vele kanalen, o.a. Nederlandse en Belgische zenders.
Reservering (20 % aanbetaling) d.m.v. huurcontract incl. coulante annuleringsvoorwaarden:
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November, december (m.u.v. de Kerstperiode ),  januari en februari: prijs op aanvraag (soms ook langere periodes mogelijk). 
Prima verwarming via Heatwafer panelen in alle 6 kamers € 25 per boeking.
Tram 28 Square Martim Moniz Mouraria Lisbon 2
5 min. lopen vanaf het appartement: startpunt trammetje 28 0p plein Martim Moniz
Startpunt legendarische gele tram 28: 5 minuten lopen vanaf het appartement
Een ‘must do’ Lissabon attractie: het legendarische trammetje 28, startpunt is vlakbij het appartement. Een ideale- en goedkope manier om de historische wijken van Lissabon te zien en de ‘miradouros’ (mooie uitkijkpunten) over de rivier De Taag.
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Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 2e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar de tuin van de buren
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Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 3e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar het terras. Comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200)
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Bij aankomst in het appartement staat een lekkere fles Portugese wijn in de ijskast. Zeer goed verzorgde schoonmaak, opgemaakte bedden bij aankomst.
Mouraria 3 bedroom apartment Lisbon patio March 2016
3- slaapkamer appartement Mouraria Lisbon: geurende jasmijn op de pátio (30 m2) maart 2016
De zwaluw (gekregen van Sander en Marcel 🙂 ) is een Portugees symbool dat staat voor liefde en geluk: gitzwarte zwaluwen (andorinhas) sieren menig Portugees huis   meer

Fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon: Maria Severa, first fadista & femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music. Good fado has its home in historical areas Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria‘, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista: ‘Maria da Severa’ .

Mourara Lisbon in June Rua do Capelao Portuguese fado guitar

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities): Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 10pm.

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria 'Casa da Maria da Severa' november 2013

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter. After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

People who like to gather here are musicians, actors, journalists and residents of surrounding neighborhoods. Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria dinner feb 14 3 Josephine e Jorge

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver) € 13,90, bacalhau (cod fish) € 16,90, bife € 15,90, and 2 bottles of red wine € 21,80.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016: 90 euro

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-)

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon: famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

Retratos do Fado – Um tributo à Mouraria. (Portraits of Fado – A tribute to Mouraria). This is a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas with a strong connection to the neighbourhood. A great idea! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in the area for 6 years.

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho (Portuguese fado singer & songwriter) & Maria da Mouraria

In summertime you can enjoy well-known fado performers in front of ‘Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, (YouTube). Film screenings, book readings and performers are the responsibility of Helder Moutinho.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

In summertime the terrace is open for drinks and petiscos (‘tapas’).

Dining from 20:00 – 02:00. Open from Tuesdays to Sundays (incl. Fado). No creditcards.  Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz.

Reservations: (00351) 96 476 60 56. Facebook    Website

10 minutes walk from this square: my 3 bedroom apartment & lovely patio (30 m2)

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

Tiny Ginja bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon: popular berry liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Ginja liqueur April15 2

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street tourists

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

My 100 m2 apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovley patio is 5 minutes walk from here (short term rentals)

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Felipe

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Lisbon cafe Amigos da Severa Mouraria Luc e Erika fado

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa people street live fado
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and first fado singer of Lisbon
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa owner sr. Antonio Pais May15
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
Lisbon bar ANOS 60 Festas populares Santo Antonio night June 12 15
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Mouraria Lisbon in June & June 12,

Lisbon tourist guide Josephine: Mouraria, narrow Moorish streets & drinking Ginja

Josephine Lucassen is a professional guide, licensed by the city of Lisbon. She loves it to organise private walking tours for a group of tourists in this old and wonderful city!

Mouraria, Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão & Josephine Lucassen, guide

Example: a walking tour through the oldest parts of Lisbon, the popular districts of Alfama and Mouraria, the ancient areas that have survived the earthquake of 1755.

The many winding alleys still show the traces of the Moorish domination (from 711-1108). It is said that Fado music was born in Mouraria around 1820.

São Cristóvão (St. Christopher’s) Church in Mouraria Lisbon

Walk in historic Mouraria area March 18 & NV Lissabon members

My authentic apartment  is for rent in this area: 3 bedrooms and a lovely quiet patio (30 m2) (Dutch owner)

Mouraria Lisbon: stairs to Rua de São Cristóvão

The best way to start this walk is from Rua da Madalena and then climb the stairs Escadinhas de São Cristóvão.

Mouraria Lisbon: Rua de São Cristóvão in wintertime

Josephine: “I was born in Holland in a small village in Drente. After some travel jobs (f.e. Hotelplan) I prefered to live in Portugal. I’m happily married to a sympathetic Portuguese man, Jorge. Together we have 2 children. My curiosity and also the beauty of Portugal made me decide to study at the University of Lisbon. Now I am a professional,  licenced tourist guide with a lot of experience and a passion for history”.

Artisanat Portugais vintage & curiosites

‘A Loja’: Artisanat Portugais, vintage & Curiosités, Rua de São Cristóvão 3

Josephine: “On the corner of this street there’s a nice shop for tourists with typical Portuguese pottery and much more. We continue our walk in the small alleys of the Mouraria area and then we enjoy a drink in one of the pubs: the famous Portuguese liqueur Ginja (or Ginjinha), a must when you visit Lisbon!”

A sua saúde! (cheers!) Josephine in Mouraria Lisbon, area with lots of old bars and narrow streets.

Ginjinha, or simply Ginja, is a liqueur made of a cherry-like berry called (not surprisingly) Ginja. The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky. It is a favourite liqueur of many Portuguese. You can order a Ginja for little money, with or without a cherry in it.

Mouraria Lisbon: historical area with tiny steets and small bars

Fado

Josephine: “Now we walk to Rua do Capelão, to visit the house of the first fadista, Maria Severa. Maria died very young after a passionate liaison with a nobleman in 1846. Also born in Mouraria: Mariza. Amália Rodrigues, ‘queen of Fado’ was born nearby. Fado house Maria da Mouraria

Mouraria, Lisbon, a hidden place: beautiful very old tiles (azulejos)

Portugal is famous for its decorative tiles (azulejos). In Mouraria there’s a hidden place where you find beautiful tiles representing biblical- and scenes of Portugal’s rich history and culture. Azulejos are found on the interior and exterior of churches, palaces and ordinary houses.

Square Martim Moniz February 2013: Kiosk ‘A Preta’:  João (Johnny)

Josephine: “Then we finish our trip enjoying a drink in the sun at square Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and food kiosks. This is where the historic Mouraria neighborhood starts, a multicultural area. The food here is also very good.

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: Kiosk ‘A Preta’: guide Josephine & ???

This man, for both of us completely unknown, asked me to make a picture of him together with this beautiful lady  🙂

Starting point legendary tram 28

This square Martim Moniz is also the starting point for the legendary tram 28, a ‘must- do’ Lisbon attraction.

Alfama, historical area in Lisbon: Escadinhas Santo Estêvão

Private city walking tours

Josephine: “For some years I organize private walking tours for groups. Many tourists miss the hidden gems of Lisbon, simply because they did not know about them!

Lisbon river Tagus viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Catarina or Adamastor

Josephine: “Another idea for a 4-hour walking tour is a start near the river Tagus: Cais do Sodré, famous fish market Mercado do Ribeiro, cute and famous little tram to the top of the Bica area, river Tagus viewpoint Santa Catarina, bohemien neighborhood Bairro Alto, along Sao Bento palace, park in Principe Real with one of the oldest cedar trees in Lisbon. Finally Rossio, a wonderful square with historical buildings and of course: liqueur Ginja!

Tourist attraction Lisbon: sculpture Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl more than 75 years after his dead….

Tailored Tours

“How about a tour tailored to your specific needs? A walking full day tour combined with old trams and funiculars would be a perfect idea”.

Price: from € 15, 00 per person (4 hours) Full day tour € 25 pp.  Minimum 4 people (max. 10).

Mail josephinelucassen@yahoo.com or call: 00351 966 361 983 . Facebook

“My favorite place in Lisbon? Pffffffff, not easy, one of them is river viewpoint Portas do Sol, especially by night…..amazing!”

Tagus river viewpoint (Miradouro) Portas do Sol, Alfama Lisbon

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado music & 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Looking for a short term vacation apartment? My three bedroom apartment with sunny patio (30 m2) in this historic area, Mouraria).

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Amália Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ Lisbon, handcrafted art pottery Olaria & designer Alberto Gourgel

One of my favorite old streets in Lisbon is Rua do Salvador in Alfama, one of the oldest neighborhoods of Lisbon. The area is easy to reach from the city center by the legendary old tram 28

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon1

Rua do Salvador/corner Rua de São Tomé, Alfama Lisbon

Here you will find a real Portuguese atmosphere, quite close to the famous viewpoint and tourist attraction Portas do Sol

Rua do Salvador is named after the city of Salvador in Brazil, a former Portuguese colony (from 1500-1825). Historic name: Cidade de São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos ( “City of the Holy Savior of the Bay of all Saints”).

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon2 restaurant Zip Zip

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Lisbon, typical Portuguese restaurant

Small restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a real tasca, serving affordable good Portuguese standard snacks and dishes, also loved by locals. Typical in historic area Alfama is a singing canary (or other types of birds, like a parrot) in a small cage hanging from windows and doors.

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon Tasca Zip Zip2

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Alfama, Lisbon, in the afternoon

Tourist menu 7 euro (starter, main course and dessert). Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a traditional Portuguese family restaurant. The atmosphere is very relaxed, the food is cheap but tasty.

Typical in historic area Alfama in Lisbon: a singing bird in a cage, this very nice bird is a Katara

Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ in Alfama is open from Monday to Saturday from 11:00h until 24:00h. Closed: Sunday. In the smaller restaurants in Lisbon the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth and you can pay cash only.

Rua do Salvador historic area Alfama Lisbon5

Rua do Salvador, Lisbon

While walking around in this narrow old street you will discover hard working people and small shops.

Tiago Praça in his atelier, pottery Olaria Lisbon, Rua do Salvador 57

Rua do Salvador 57: pottery Olaria, handmade ceramics, tiles and much more. Probably the only pottery in Lisbon working with wheels. Here you can find a nice Portuguese souvenir from 2 euros.

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel

Vintage store & atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Alfama Lisbon

Designer Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975 . In 2010 Alberto opened his atelier/store in Rua do Salvador.

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel 3

Atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Here you can find all kinds of cool vintage stuff and old-fashioned suitcases decorated with original Portuguese magazines, created by Alberto. Blog: coisasdoalberto

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel Amália Rodrigues

Suitcase created by Alberto: Amália Rodrigues, Lisbon’s ‘Queen of Fado’

Alberto Gourgel: “I like this very old street in Alfama, it’s a mix of old and modern Lisbon. The owner of the fish shop next door sells fish while singing fado songs. Besides I’m very glad to rent this place quite close to the Feira da Ladra’, Lisbon’s famous flea market“.

This legendary flea market is held every Tuesday and Saturday from dawn to dusk, visited by lots of tourists from all over the world.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel Lisbon cool vintage stuff Rua do Salvador 83

Atelier/store Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Alberto: “I often find nice old stuff at auctions. Portugal is a poor country and in the past people bought their furniture when they got married for the rest of their lives. When they die the furniture often is sold at auction. Young people here like going to Ikea. But it’s not only a business, I really like what I do”.

Lisbon Rua do Salvador Alfama 10

Alfama: old Moorisch quarter in Lisbon & river viewpoint Portas do Sol

Alfama is certainly the most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon, a narrowed maze of streets with many fado restaurants and pictoresque houses.

Alfama near Sao George Castle2

Lunch time in Alfama: Largo Contador Mor

Street close to the Castle of St George

Alfama Lisbon typical restaurant

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

There are a lot of typical Portuguese restaurants.

The name Alfama originates from the Arabic El Hamma and means something like ‘fountains’ or ‘baths’. The area contains many important historical attractions.

Alfama Lisbon hanging laundry 20

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

Typical Portuguese is the hanging laundry in the windows, drying in the wind

Lisbon Alfama from viewpoint Portas do Sol

Alfama Lisbon viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol by night

The Belvedere Portas do Sol is a balcony space that all people of Lisbon are proud to have at their disposal. Magnificent view of Lisbon and the typical Alfama district that spans several narrow, winding streets to the river Tagus

Alfama near Rua dos Bacalhoeiros

Historic area Alfama Lisbon Largo do Chafariz do Dentro,

Beautiful azulejos (tiles), close to the Fado Museum (Museu do Fado) ‘a must do’ for those who love Fado music as well as those with an interest in Portuguese culture and history. Near this square you’ll find a lot of small fado restaurants.

Alfama Lisbon street 26

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

It’s still like a kasbah, this labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog….more…

Alfama drawing wall sardines music

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

Sardines and music in LisbonFestas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints) in June & Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony)

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: excellent small plate dishes (petiscos) & Fado Museum

Portugal is famous for its culinary richness! Highly recommended in Lisbon, also for groups: restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’, attached to the Fado Museum.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa (traverse) do Fado’ Lisbon: sunny terrace in June

Fado Museum attached to the restaurant

Your first visit to Lisbon? Don’t think you can always enjoy traditional fado music in this restaurant during your lunch or dinner. The name is related to the Fado Museum, attached to the restaurant.

If you wish, the very nice manager António Moita can recommend a good fado-bar. The next-door Fado museum is open from 10:00-18:00 (closed Mondays)

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: small plate dishes (petiscos)

Sopa legumes (vegetable soup) € 4.00, Bochecha do Porco Preto (black pork cheeck) € 6.50, Tomatada (fried tomatoes) € 4.00, pão ( bread) € 1.00, copo do vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 4.00, agua (1/2 lit. water) € 1.50, café € 1.50.

Petiscos/tapas

Small plate dishes are called petiscos in Portugal, so basically the same as Spanish tapas. (More….  ). Don’t say this to the Portuguese, the Spanish invasion (1762) is still fresh in their memory…. 😉

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: manager António Moita

Famous restaurant ‘A Travessa’ in Lisbon, considered one of the best in the city, opened in July 2012 this new space,  A Travessa do Fado’ , in another area: the heart of Alfama, the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: Bacalhau (Cod) Zé do Pipo

Quality and sophisticated service .

In case you come here for a lunch experience, this restaurant is a good starting point to discover the narrow streets of Alfama, the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon, November 2012, a rainy day.

Also in wintertime this restaurant is worth a visit, inside it is beautifully decorated. Together with my friend Erika Reusens we spent an afternoon here enjoying some petiscos and a good red wine (Foral Reserva, bottle € 18,00).

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’: Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans): € 3,00. I love it!  🙂

Peixinhos da horta (YouTube) is a traditional dish in Portuguese cuisine, literally translated as ‘little garden fish’, as it resembles small pieces of colorful fish.

On the wall  there’s a chalky blackboard with suggestions: soups, salads, octopus, cuttlefish, shrimp or oysters. Desserts (sobremesa), like tarte de amendoas (almond tart) € 4.00, or bolo do chocolate (chocolate cake) € 4.00.

Terrace Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon in summertime

Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1, Alfama,  Lisbon

Telephone: (+351) 218 870 144. Closed: Monday and Tuesday. Opening times: from 11:00 am till 01:00. Facebook

Fado Museum Lisbon, attached to restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’

The Fado Museum in Lisbon is ‘a must do’ for those who love Fado music as well as those with an interest in Portuguese culture and history. The permanent exhibition is a tribute to Fado and its promoters, revealing its history since 19th century Lisbon. More…

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: fado night September  2013

Fado history Mouraria Lisbon: a passionate liaison & first Fado singer Maria Severa

Historic area Mouraria contains a tangled street layout just as in Alfama, which has remained since the times of the Moors.

Mouraria Historical Center typical lley

Mouraria, Lisbon, one of Lisbon’s oldest districts.

The Arabs withdrew into this quarter after Lisbon was conquered by the Portuguese – a ghetto for people of different faiths arose. In the 19th C. prostitution and fado, which at this time was considered to be indecent, brought the quarter a bad name.

Mouraria Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão. How to get there

Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. The area is full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap (but good!) small restaurants.

Looking for a vacation stay in Lisbon? My Three bedroom apartment with sunny pátio (30 m2) in Mouraria – (short term rentals).

Mouraria historical center fado Rua da Severa


Largo da Severa’ Lisbon in area Mouraria.

Fado

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of fado music. The quarter is still today associated with fado: The ‘Casa de Severa’ at Largo da Severa 2 was the home of the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando, who died at age 26 on November 30, 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Famous performer of fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz.

Mouraria historical center fado plaque

(‘Mouraria, sculpture Berço do Fado‘, fado was born here)

Rua da Mouraria/ corner Rua do Capelão. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. But the scandal increased fado’s appeal, leading to the publication of its first sheet music.

Fado Maria Severa painting

Famous painting Maria da Severa, regarded as the first fado singer

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”.

Mouraria Historical Center house Maria Severa fado singer

Fadista Maria da Severa’s house

UPDATE 2014:

Maria da Severa’s house is beautifully remodeled, you can enjoy pure fado here and traditional Portuguese food

There is a plaque in Maria Severa’s memory and a stylized fado guitar can be seen on the newly surfaced road where she lived. The memory of the singer is also kept alive in the pub called “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) in the nearby Rua do Capelao , with a painting of her hanging on the wall.

Mouraria Fado Friends of Maria Severa

Cafe “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) Mouraria Lisbon

Rua do Capelao 32, owner senhor Antonio Correia Alves Pais

Walk with friends Ans and Loek in Mouraria: a sua saúde ! Picture: Loek Polack

More about this remarkable little bar.