Restaurant Grelhador de Alfama Lisbon & owner Germano’s home-produced wine

May 8 2021: No lockdown anymore in Lisbon! ūüôā

No lockdown anymore! Wonderful atmosphere in historical area Alfama, Rua de Remedios Lisbon

Historic area Alfama in Lisbon can be described as the heart of tradition. It still remains characteristic, however in summertime it can be too crowdy…

Senhor Graciano Germano, owner of restaurant Grelhador de Alfama Lisbon in wintertime & friend Alexandra Tops, November 2019

Delicious aroma in the streets

In Rua de Remedios in Lisbon there’re many restaurants to choose from. In the narrow streets you smell the delicious aroma curling up from the grills ūüôā

Restaurant Grelhador (Grill) de Alfama in Lisbon

Area Alfama in Lisbon certainly is the most famous historic and oldest neighborhood, a narrowed maze of streets with many fado restaurants and pictoresque houses.

Restaurant Grelhador (Grill) de Alfama in Lisbon & lovely interior

Mainly visitors from all over the world walk around in area Alfama, nowadays it’s a very popular historic neighborhood. You hardly hear people speaking Portuguese..

Authentic Portuguese restaurants with local priced dishes are not easy to find.

Restaurant Grelhador (Grill) de Alfama in Lisbon: dish of the day: leit√£o Grelhado (grilled pig)

We were enticed by the 8 ‚ā¨ for the dish of the day (leit√£o grelhado , grilled pig), but a glass of house wine is 3.50 ‚ā¨ (home-produced, very good taste). Unrequested starter: 4.50 ‚ā¨ for 5 slices of chouri√ßo (spicy sausage) ūüôĀ

The bill came to 40 ‚ā¨ (2 people, incl. bread, water &¬† dessert: mousse manga). No ATM, only cash.

Restaurant Grelhador (Grill) de Alfama in Lisbon, November 2019

Unrequested starter dishes: typical Portuguese

You have to pay for starters like bread, butter, ‚Äčchouri√ßo, cheese and often olives, tuna or sardine paste, or shrimps (camar√£o).

Restaurant Grelhador (Grill) de Alfama in Lisbon & friendly owner sr. Germano

Those starters are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill.

You won‚Äôt pay for¬†starters if you don‚Äôt eat them, the waiter will take them away (n√£o, obrigado): ‚ÄėNo thank you‚Äô.

Restaurant Grelhador (Grill) de Alfama in Lisbon & home produced wine

Owner Graciano Germano and his wife are very friendly. The bill was not as painful as it could have been in this area. Restaurant owner Sr. Germano took the time to tell us the story about their home-produced wine.

Then we could buy 2 bottles of wine for a friendly price ūüôā

Traditional Portuguese restaurant Grelhador de Alfama, Lisbon

Restaurant Grelhador de Alfama
Rua de Remedios 135-137
Lisbon
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Closed on Sunday. Without ATM, only cash

Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas¬† Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar¬†‘Maria da Mouraria.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do¬†Capel√£o¬†(& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capel√£o

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado¬†bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house¬†‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was¬†born in this house, that’s why¬†this¬†place was created (in 2013)¬†to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer,¬†considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre)¬†Lisbon:¬†Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being¬†a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends¬†Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide)¬†and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: ‚ā¨ 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube¬†movie about the area and people who live here , trying to¬†sing fado¬†:-) ūüėČ

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Am√°lia Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’,¬†Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa N¬ļ2/2B.¬† Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado¬†music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic¬† ūüôā

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 ūüôĀ

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

¬†Restaurant ‘A¬†Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A¬†Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile¬† ūüôā .

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YouTube:¬† Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( ‚ā¨ 7,90) (Carne de Porco √† Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! ūüôā Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A¬†Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua Jo√£o do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares¬† (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon‚Äôs oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‚ÄėZ√© da Mouraria‚Äô. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Z√© da Mouraria‚Äô ūüôā June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer ūüėČ

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau, Mouraria Lisbon, November 2019
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau:¬† lunch (almo√ßo) has a fixed price of 35 ‚ā¨ per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere ūüôā
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Taberna do Calhau Mouraria Lisbon & very nice waiter
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb).
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (‚ā¨ 25 ).¬† ūüôā
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)¬† ūüėȬ†¬† ūüėČ sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Caf√© Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!¬† ūüėČ

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

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Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines ūüôā

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

‚ÄčThis is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: Pedro & Dina

Cozy terrace in a courtyard . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).

Very friendly owners‚Äč!¬† ūüôā

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: dish of the day (6.50 euro)

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Bill for 3 persons 27 euro

Grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno (& bakery Doce Mila) area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant Beco do Forno is open every day from 10:00 – 16:00 and from 19:00 till 21:30. Closed on Sunday

Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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‚ÄčThe many winding alleys¬†still show the traces of the¬†500 years of¬†Moorish domination (from 711-1249).¬†
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxal√° – a direct descendent of insha‚ÄôAllah, the term meaning ‚ÄúGod willing.‚Ä̬† More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There‚Äôre¬†Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‚ÄėMaria da Mouraria‚Äô, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s¬† restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

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Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a¬†delicious¬†typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!¬†¬†

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Sch√∂ttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

‚ā¨¬†20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from¬†07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday.¬†

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maur√≠cio .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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√ď!¬†Galeria, Illustration¬†gallery, Cal√ßada de Santo Andr√© 86, Mouraria Lisbon

√ď! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes ‚ā¨ 5,50 –¬† ‚ā¨ 7,50. Rice ‚ā¨ 1.50. Bottle of water ‚ā¨ 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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Bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon: Ginja liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a¬†delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!¬†¬†Very popular!¬†You can taste it¬†in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar¬†‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon¬†& owner sr.¬†Ant√≥nio Pais¬†serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ .¬†Already 40 years sr.¬†Ant√≥nio Pais is the very friendly owner. ¬†

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro ūüôā¬†¬†Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent¬† ūüôā¬†

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon¬†try a glass of Ginja¬†at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction,¬†but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. Ant√≥nio,¬†and taste his favorite¬†Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly ūüėČ ¬†The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

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Tiny tavern¬†‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon &¬†amigo Felipe Aristimu√Īo

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinha ‚Äėcom Ginja‚Äô (with a cherry in the glass). If you don‚Äôt want it, ask for one ‚Äėsem Ginja‚Äô (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets ūüôĀ

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost! ¬†ūüėČ A remarkable night in¬†Mouraria¬†with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and Lisbon’s first fado singer
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. Ant√≥nio’s radio.
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr.¬†Ant√≥nio Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maur√≠cio. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together ūüôā . There’re¬†Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
June 2019, Artur Domingos & Gabrielle
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Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon
Where: Rua do Capel√£o, n.¬ļ 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house¬†‚ÄėMaria da Mouraria‚Äô. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
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Lisbon tourist guide Josephine: Mouraria, narrow Moorish streets & drinking Ginja

Josephine Lucassen is a professional guide, licensed by the city of Lisbon. She loves it to organise private walking tours for a group of tourists in this old and wonderful city!

Mouraria, Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão & Josephine Lucassen, guide

Example: a walking tour through the oldest parts of Lisbon, the popular districts of Alfama and Mouraria, the ancient areas that have survived the earthquake of 1755.

The many winding alleys still show the traces of the Moorish domination (from 711-1108). It is said that Fado music was born in Mouraria around 1820.

S√£o Crist√≥v√£o (St. Christopher’s)¬†Church in Mouraria Lisbon

Walk in historic Mouraria area March 18 & NV Lissabon members

Mouraria Lisbon: stairs to Rua de São Cristóvão

The best way to start this walk is from Rua da Madalena and then climb the stairs Escadinhas de São Cristóvão.

Mouraria Lisbon: Rua de São Cristóvão in wintertime

Josephine: “I was born in Holland in a small village in Drente. After some travel jobs (f.i. Hotelplan) I prefered to live in Portugal. I’m happily married to a sympathetic Portuguese man, Jorge. Together we have 2 children. My curiosity and also the beauty of Portugal made me decide to study at the University of Lisbon. Now I am a professional, ¬†licenced tourist guide with a lot of experience and a passion for history”.

Artisanat Portugais vintage & curiosites

‘A Loja’: Artisanat Portugais, vintage & Curiosit√©s, Rua de S√£o Crist√≥v√£o 3

Josephine: “On the corner of this¬†street¬†there’s a nice shop for tourists with typical Portuguese pottery and much more. We continue¬†our walk¬†in the small alleys of the Mouraria¬†area and then we enjoy a drink in one of the pubs: the¬†famous Portuguese liqueur Ginja (or Ginjinha), a must when you visit Lisbon!”

A sua sa√ļde! (cheers!) Josephine¬†in Mouraria Lisbon, area with lots of old bars and narrow streets.

Ginjinha, or simply Ginja, is a liqueur made of a cherry-like berry called (not surprisingly) Ginja. The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky. It is a favourite liqueur of many Portuguese. You can order a Ginja for little money, with or without a cherry in it.

Mouraria Lisbon: historical area with tiny steets and small bars

Fado

Josephine: “Now we walk to Rua do Capel√£o, to visit the house of the first fadista, Maria Severa.¬†Maria died very young after a passionate liaison with a nobleman in 1846.

Also grew up in Mouraria: famous singer Mariza. Am√°lia Rodrigues, ‚Äėqueen of Fado‚Äô, was born nearby. Fado house Maria da Mouraria

Mouraria, Lisbon, a hidden place: beautiful very old tiles (azulejos)

Portugal is famous for its decorative tiles¬†(azulejos).¬†In Mouraria¬†there’s¬†a hidden place where you find¬†beautiful tiles representing biblical- and scenes of Portugal’s rich history and culture. Azulejos are found on the interior and exterior of churches, palaces and ordinary houses.

Square Martim Moniz February 2013: Kiosk ‚ÄėA Preta‚Äô:¬† Jo√£o (Johnny)

Josephine: “Then we finish our trip enjoying a drink in the sun at square Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and food kiosks. This is where the historic Mouraria neighborhood starts, a multicultural area. The food here is also very good.

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: Kiosk ‘A Preta’: guide Josephine & ???

This man, for¬†both of us¬†completely unknown,¬†asked me to make a picture of him together with this beautiful lady¬† ūüôā

Starting point legendary tram 28

This square¬†Martim Moniz is also the starting point for the legendary tram 28,¬†a ‘must- do’ Lisbon attraction.

Alfama, historical area in Lisbon: Escadinhas Santo Estêvão

Private city walking tours

Josephine: “For some years I organize private walking tours for groups. Many tourists miss the hidden gems of Lisbon, simply because they did not know about them!

Lisbon river Tagus viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Catarina or Adamastor

Josephine: “Another idea for a 4-hour walking tour is a start near the river Tagus: Cais do Sodr√©, famous fish market Mercado do Ribeiro, cute and famous little tram to the top of the Bica area, river Tagus viewpoint Santa Catarina, bohemien neighborhood Bairro Alto, along Sao Bento palace, park in Principe Real with one of the oldest cedar trees in Lisbon. Finally Rossio, a wonderful square with historical buildings and of course: liqueur¬†Ginja!

Tourist attraction Lisbon: sculpture Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl more than¬†75 years after his dead….

Tailored Tours

“How about a tour tailored to your specific needs? A walking full day tour combined with old trams and funiculars would be a perfect idea”.

Price: from ‚ā¨¬†15, 00 per person (4 hours) Full day tour ‚ā¨ 25 pp.¬† Minimum¬†4 people (max. 10).

Mail josephinelucassen@yahoo.com or call: 00351 966 361 983 . Facebook

“My favorite place in Lisbon? Pffffffff, not easy,¬†one of them is¬†river viewpoint Portas do Sol, especially by night…..amazing!”

Tagus river viewpoint (Miradouro) Portas do Sol, Alfama Lisbon

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado museum & Am√°lia Rodrigues, queen of fado

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‚ÄėBairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Gra√ßa, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185)¬†, after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

Ginja Cafe in area Mouraria

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Am√°lia Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‚Äėqueen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…¬† Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Am√°lia Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Am√°lia Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ Lisbon, handcrafted art pottery Olaria & designer Alberto Gourgel

One of my favorite old streets in Lisbon is Rua do Salvador in Alfama, one of the oldest neighborhoods of Lisbon. The area is easy to reach from the city center by the legendary old tram 28

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon1

Rua do Salvador/corner Rua de São Tomé, Alfama Lisbon

Here you will find a real Portuguese atmosphere, quite close to the famous viewpoint and tourist attraction Portas do Sol

Rua do Salvador is named after the city of Salvador in Brazil, a former Portuguese colony (from 1500-1825). Historic name: Cidade de S√£o Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos (¬†“City of the Holy Savior of the Bay of all Saints”).

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon2 restaurant Zip Zip

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’¬†Rua do Salvador 45¬†Lisbon,¬†typical Portuguese restaurant

Small restaurant ‘Zip Zip’¬†is a¬†real tasca, serving affordable good Portuguese standard snacks and dishes, also loved by locals. Typical in historic area Alfama is a singing canary (or other types of¬†birds, like a parrot) in a small cage hanging from windows and doors.

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon Tasca Zip Zip2

Tasca¬†‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Alfama,¬†Lisbon, in the afternoon

Tourist menu¬†7 euro (starter, main course and dessert). Restaurant¬†‘Zip Zip’ is a traditional Portuguese family restaurant. The atmosphere is very relaxed, the food is cheap but tasty.

Typical in historic area Alfama in Lisbon: a singing bird in a cage, this very nice bird is a Katara

Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ in Alfama is open from Monday to Saturday from 11:00h until 24:00h. Closed: Sunday. In the smaller restaurants in Lisbon the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth and you can pay cash only.

Rua do Salvador historic area Alfama Lisbon5

Rua do Salvador, Lisbon

While walking around in this narrow old street you will discover hard working people and small shops.

Tiago Praça in his atelier, pottery Olaria Lisbon, Rua do Salvador 57

Rua do Salvador 57: pottery Olaria, handmade ceramics, tiles and much more. Probably the only pottery in Lisbon working with wheels. Here you can find a nice Portuguese souvenir from 2 euros.

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel

Vintage store & atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Alfama Lisbon

Designer Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975 . In 2010 Alberto opened his atelier/store in Rua do Salvador.

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel 3

Atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Here you can find all kinds of cool vintage stuff and old-fashioned suitcases decorated with original Portuguese magazines, created by Alberto. Blog: coisasdoalberto

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel Am√°lia Rodrigues

Suitcase created by Alberto: Am√°lia Rodrigues, Lisbon’s ‘Queen of Fado’

Alberto Gourgel: “I like this¬†very old street in Alfama,¬†it’s a mix of old and modern Lisbon.¬†The owner of the fish shop next door sells fish while singing fado songs.¬†Besides¬†I’m very glad to rent this place quite close to the¬†Feira da Ladra’, Lisbon’s famous flea market“.

This legendary flea market is held every Tuesday and Saturday from dawn to dusk, visited by lots of tourists from all over the world.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel Lisbon cool vintage stuff Rua do Salvador 83

Atelier/store Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Alberto: “I often find nice old stuff at auctions. Portugal is a poor country and in the past people bought their furniture when they got married for the rest of their lives. When they die the furniture often¬†is sold at auction. Young people here¬†like going to Ikea. But it’s not only a business, I really like what I do”.

Lisbon Rua do Salvador Alfama 10

Alfama Lisbon: old Moorisch quarter, fado restaurants & river viewpoint Portas do Sol

Alfama is certainly the most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon, a narrowed maze of streets with many fado restaurants and pictoresque houses.

Alfama near Sao George Castle2

Lunch time in Alfama: Largo Contador Mor

Street close to the Castle of St George

Alfama Lisbon typical restaurant

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

There are a lot of typical Portuguese restaurants.

The name Alfama originates from the Arabic El Hamma and means something like ‘fountains’ or ‘baths’. The area contains many important historical attractions.

Alfama Lisbon hanging laundry 20

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

Typical Portuguese is the hanging laundry in the windows, drying in the wind

Lisbon Alfama from viewpoint Portas do Sol

Alfama Lisbon viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol by night

The Belvedere Portas do Sol is a balcony space that all people of Lisbon are proud to have at their disposal. Magnificent view of Lisbon and the typical Alfama district that spans several narrow, winding streets to the river Tagus

Alfama near Rua dos Bacalhoeiros

Historic area Alfama Lisbon Largo do Chafariz do Dentro,

Beautiful azulejos (tiles),¬†close to¬†the Fado Museum (Museu do Fado) ‘a must do’ for those who love Fado music as well as those with an interest in Portuguese culture and history. Near this square you’ll find a lot of small fado restaurants.

Alfama Lisbon street 26

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

It‚Äôs still like a kasbah, this labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog‚Ķ.more…

Alfama drawing wall sardines music

Historical area Alfama, Lisbon

Sardines and music in Lisbon:  Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints) in June & Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony)

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: sunny terrace, petiscos & Fado Museum

Portugal is famous for its culinary richness!¬†Highly recommended in Lisbon, also for groups:¬†restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’,¬†attached¬†to the¬†Fado Museum.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa (traverse) do Fado’ Lisbon: sunny terrace in June

Fado Museum attached to the restaurant

Your first¬†visit to Lisbon? Don’t think you can always enjoy traditional fado music in this restaurant during¬†your lunch or dinner. The name is related to the Fado Museum, attached to the restaurant.

If you wish, the very nice manager António Moita can recommend a good fado-bar. The next-door Fado museum is open from 10:00-18:00 (closed Mondays)

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: small plate dishes¬†(petiscos)

Sopa legumes (vegetable soup) ‚ā¨ 4.00, Bochecha do Porco Preto (black pork cheeck) ‚ā¨ 6.50, Tomatada (fried tomatoes) ‚ā¨ 4.00, p√£o ( bread) ‚ā¨ 1.00, copo do vinho branco (glass of white wine) ‚ā¨ 4.00, agua (1/2 lit. water) ‚ā¨ 1.50, caf√© ‚ā¨ 1.50.

Petiscos/tapas

Small plate dishes are called petiscos in Portugal, so basically the same as Spanish tapas. (More….¬†¬†). Don’t say this to the Portuguese, the Spanish invasion (1762) is still fresh in their memory…. ūüėČ

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: manager Ant√≥nio Moita

Famous restaurant ‘A Travessa’ in Lisbon, considered one of the best in the city, opened in July 2012 this new space,¬† A Travessa do Fado’¬†, in another area: the heart of Alfama, the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: Bacalhau (Cod) Z√© do Pipo

Quality and sophisticated service .

In case you come here for a lunch experience, this restaurant is a good starting point to discover the narrow streets of Alfama, the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon, November 2012, a rainy day.

Also in wintertime this¬†restaurant is worth a visit,¬†inside it is beautifully decorated. Together with my friend Erika Reusens we¬†spent an afternoon here enjoying¬†some petiscos and a good red wine (Foral Reserva, bottle ‚ā¨ 18,00).

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’:¬†Peixinhos da Horta¬†(fried green beans): ‚ā¨ 3,00. I love it!¬† ūüôā

Peixinhos da horta (YouTube) is a traditional dish in Portuguese cuisine, literally translated as ‘little garden fish’, as it resembles small pieces of colorful fish.

On the wall¬†¬†there’s a chalky blackboard with suggestions: soups, salads, octopus, cuttlefish, shrimp or oysters. Desserts (sobremesa), like tarte de amendoas (almond tart) ‚ā¨ 4.00, or bolo do chocolate (chocolate cake) ‚ā¨ 4.00.

Terrace Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon in summertime

Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1, Alfama,  Lisbon

Telephone: (+351) 218 870 144. Closed: Monday and Tuesday. Opening times: from 11:00 am till 01:00. Facebook

Fado Museum Lisbon, attached to restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’

The Fado Museum in Lisbon is ‚Äėa must do‚Äô for those who love Fado music as well as those with an interest in Portuguese culture and history. The permanent exhibition is a tribute to Fado and its promoters, revealing its history since 19th century Lisbon. More…

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: fado night September¬† 2013

Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest, picturesque, neighbourhood & famous tram 28

Alfama is certainly the most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon.

Alfma near Feira da Ladra azulejos

Beautiful azulejos (ancient tiles), Beco dos Loios,

Historic area Graça, near area Alfama, close to the famous Feira de Ladra (thieves market).

Alfama miradouro Tagus

Miradouro St. Luzia, famous viewpoint halfway between Sé Cathedral and the Castelo Sao Jorge.

Nearby: viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol

Tram electrico 28 Alfama

Alfama famous tram ‘electrico 28’

A ‘must do’ and cheap Lisbon attraction. This legendary tram is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can ‘hop on hop off’.

Alfama history fado restaurants

Square near the Fado Museum, Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, a lot of small fado restaurants

Alfma is a narrowed maze of streets, nowadays with many fado restaurants¬† and picturesque houses. The name Alfama originates from the Arabic word Al-Hamma meaning ‚Äėfountains‚Äô or ‚Äėbaths‚Äô. The area contains many important historical attractions.

Alfama Chafiraz del Rei from 1747

Chafiraz d’ El Rei, a palace built in 1747,¬†for many years¬†a pigeons’ home.

Nowadays this beautiful building is restored into a romantic hotel with grandeur

Alfama June 2008

After the Mourish domination (7-12 century), Alfama became inhabited by the fishermen and the poor, and the neighborhood of the poor continues to this day.

Alfama history

In the 19th C. Alfama was a gloomy, dirty and depressing area as a result of unhealthy living conditions. Today the poorer classes continue to live here, mainly in houses in need of renovation.

Insufficient heating and draughty walls ensure poor living conditions, especially in wintertime.

Alfama History old people

At present some of the houses are being renovated.

Alfama history old houses

…..more about Alfama…and street guide

Lisbon 2006 Alfama overview

Beautiful Alfama area Lisbon