Saldaña, Estefania, Arroios: wonderful areas to discover in Lisbon & famous Pastelaria Versailles

If you like to walk around outside of tourist areas go to Saldaña , the fashionable Avenidas Novas (a part of Lisbon built in the 1950s), with department stores, cinemas, museums, supermarkets and libraries.

Lisbon Versailles tearoom restaurant outside Avenida Republica

Avenida da República near Saldaña square. A must-do is to have breakfast or lunch in the wonderful old tea- and lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles (opened in 1922) which has it’s own bakery.

Saldana Lisbon statue Square Praça do Duque de Saldana

Praça Duque de Saldaña. Monument of the great liberal Marshal who gives the square its name. Designed by Thomaz Costa and Ventura Terra, unveiled in 1909. The base of the monument contains a bronze figure of victory. At Saldaña Square there’s the highly frequented cinema Monumental where many young Portuguese meet in the bar of the cinema, ‘Movies’ .

Saldana Restaurant Galeto Lisbon december 08

Famous restaurant Galeto, a classic spot. Avenida Da República, 14. Open from 07.30 am – 03.30 (!). Delicious food and quite cheap (dinner and snacks). Galeto (movie) is well known in Lisbon for its friendly and courteous service.

Lisbon market in Arroios fish

Market mercado de Arroios , fresh fish, flowers and fruit. Arroios is a very atmospheric working class neighborhood with great markets and very good prices in restaurants and shops.

Lisbon little shops Estefania neighborhoos

Estefania: a nice and very quiet area, with lots of typical Portuguese small business ‘mom and pop’ and food shops.

Lisbon cheap tradtional restaurants Estefania

Rua Ilha da Terceira, Estefania. To eat out, try the pastelerias (cheap small restaurants, great Portugese food). Not one tourist in sight…..Chiado, Baixia and Alfama are easily reached by public transport, and even at night a taxi isn’t more than 5 euros.

Lisbon Estefania Rua da Ilha Terceira restaurant owners

The bill? Grilled salmon 5,50 euro, soup 0,90. A glass of wine 0,75.

Lisbon Saldanha luxurous shopping center

Luxury shopping center Saldanha, quite near Avenida da Liberdade, (Liberty Avenue). This broad boulevard is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees in Paris with lots of luxury boutiques selling international brands. 

Lisbon Avenida da Liberdade Pombal statue

Marquis of Pombals’ statue , a despotic marquis….more…..The Rotunda, or, officially, Praça do Marqués de Pombal

Lisbons’ unique hat makers shop: The story of Chapelaria Azevedo Rua & famous Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua is a traditional hat shop (opened in 1886) on Rossio, one of Lisbons’ famous squares, creating tailor-made hats (chapéus) on request.

Rossio Lisbon people are fond of hats

Portuguese people are fond of hats!

Rossio January 2009.

Rossio hat shop Chapelaria Azevedo Rua window dressing

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua Lisbon

Typical Portuguese hats, bridal hats, Panama- and Cylinder hats. In this well-known hatter’s you can find handmade hats for all occasions and top-hats, bowler hats, high-hats and all kinds of regional- and traditional hats.

Hat shop Azevedo Rua, Chapeus1 street shop2

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua

All levels of society buy their hats from here, from labourers to the president, also in the past, like the famous Portuguese poet and writer Fernando Pessoa.

Azevedo Rua, Azeveda Rua Chapeus1 Maria Fonseca Fernando Pessoa hat

Maria Fonseca shows ‘Fernando Pessoa’s (1888 – 1935) favourite hat.

“This type of hat is still very popular nowadays”. Price: 60 euro, tailor-made.

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua Lisbon, beautiful hat boxes

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua

History

Maria Fonseca: ” In December 1886, the grand grand father of my husband, Manuel Azevedo Rua opened this shop in Lisbon. Before that his profession was a wine producer. He lived in Nogueira, district of Vila Real Trás-os-Montes, in the north of Portugal”.

Azevedo Rua, Chapeus Precos Fixos

Hat shop Chapelaria Azevedo Rua Lisbon

No discount (‘precos fixos’) & president Mário Soares

“Due to vintage problems Manuel decided to move to Lisbon. His uncle, a rich priest, supplied him the money to finance the shop, only on this condition: no discount (‘precos fixos’), but with the exception of hats for priests”.

‘Sorry sir, no discount’

“One day, the Portuguese former President Mário Soares (son of an ex-priest) 😉 , came here to buy a hat. But no discount for him: “Desculpa senhor, precos fixos’ (Sorry sir, no discount)”. And: “D. Duarte de Bragança, the Duke of Braganza ordered his hats here”.

Azevedo Rua, Chapeus hat shop Pedro Fonseca

Hat shop Chapelaria Azevedo Rua Lisbon

Pedro Fonseca, owner

Azevedo Rua, Chapeus December 2008 Chrismas shopping Lisbon

Hat shop Chapelaria Azevedo Rua Lisbon

December, Christmas shopping

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua Rossio

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua. Address: 72-73, Praça Dom Pedro IV, Lisbon, 1100-202. Open Mon. – Fri.: 09:00 – 19:00hr. Sat. 09:00 – 13:00hr. Owners: Teresa and Jose Manuel, Maria and Pedro Fonseca.

Remarkable Christmas window dressing in Lisbon’s city center, a pierced Santa Claus & how a reindeer recommends a ‘sexual desire’ product

Already in October Lisbon is busy decorating the streets and the trees with lots of Christmas lights. Walking along the Baixa and Chiado, visitors have plenty of opportunity to find the perfect gift, to suit everyone’s wallet. The windows of the shops are dressed up with Christmas decorations, and some are quite remarkable!  Herewith some examples of Portuguese creativity in Lisbon’s commercial heart.

Lisbon Christmas window dressing Largo do Chiado

Christmas window dressing at Largo do Chiado

Elegant shopping district, close to luxury hotel Bairro Alto and Lisbon’s famous nightlife:  possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out!

Lisbon window dressing Christmas time Rua da Prata

Traditional Christmas window dressing  Rua da Prata

Lisbon remarkable Christmas window dressing penis piercings Santa Claus

In the same street, Rua da Prata 88, a pierced Santa Claus (2010)

TRIPARTE TATTOO – Body Piercing – Tattoo shop Rua da Prata, 88-90 Baixa, Lisboa

Christmas shopping Lisbon window Hermes

Hermés in December, they love ‘animal window dressing’, Largo do Chiado 9, Lisbon

Lisbon Christmas window dressing Biaxa

Baixa area
Lisbon remarkable Christmas window dressing stars wearing glasses

Rua do Carmo (2010)

Did you ever see stars in the sky wearing glasses ? This street is close to the famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa) and my favorite square in Lisbon : Praça do Carmo

Lisbon remarkable window dressing Christams reindeer recommend sexual desire product

Rua da Madalena, a reindeer in the window is placed in front of a poster ‘ how to increase your sexual desire’ : ‘Libidosil‘ (2010)

..more about this remarkable street….

 Remarkable window dressing Lisbon Alfama butcher shop

 Alfama, Rua dos Remediostalho (butcher) do Chafariz

Even de butchers decorate their shops for Christmas… 😉

Remarkable window dressing Lisbon hearing aid

…Hearing Aid shop & new batteries (pilhas 5 euro)

Christmas time in Lisbon tram decorations

Besides: Jingle bells! Even trams (Eletrico Natal) are decorated with lights and steered by Santa Claus himself!

Christmas time in Lisbon Tram and Santa Claus conductur

‘Boas Festas e Feliz Natal’ (Merry Christmas and happy New Year!), Praça da Figueira, more about this area……..

 

Lisbon shopping: Rua dom Pedro V, boutiques, traditional antique shops & beautiful blossoming jacaranda trees

Walking around in Lisbon is even better after spring has sprung. The streets, squares, parks and avenues are even more beautiful now that the jacarandas are beginning to blossom. Originally from South America, these trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Lisbon Rua dom Pedro V Principe Real jacarandas

Rua dom Pedro V, in May.

Take the time to observe these beautiful trees, like in Rua Dom Pedro V in Principe Real (which means Real Prince) area, near Bairro Alto. a wonderful area for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

Antiques Fabrico Infinito Principe Real mirror

Fabrico Infinito is a very fancy art gallery in Principe RealRua dom Pedro V, 74. Beautiful chandeliers!

Website Fabrico Infinito

Antiques Fabrico Infinito Fabrico Infinito Principe Real

Fabrico Infinito Principe RealRua dom Pedro V, 74 Lisbon

Owners: Marcela Brunken, born in Brasilia. Marcela lived and worked in Germany for a few years; and Tanja Baur, from Germany. The gallery is open from 11:00 – 19:00 daily, except Sundays and Mondays.

Principe Real Fabrico Infinito Exotico & Classico tearoom

Fabrico Infinito Principe Real Lisbon

In tea room “Exotico & Classico’ in the garden you feel like a princess in a fairy tale! They serve simply amazing cakes and tea and much more…  🙂

Lisbon Principe Real tearoom Fabrico Infinito Exotico & Classico

The bill?  A tea (cha) and a muffin de Cenour (home made) 4,70 euro.

Lisbon shopping: beautiful Avenida da Liberdade, luxury international brands & Prada’s wonderful window dressing

Beautiful Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue) is located between Restauradores Square and Marquis of Pombal Square. The Avenue was built between 1879 and 1882.

Lisbon shopping Avenida da Liberdade pedestrial center kiss

This broad boulevard, with a pedestrianised centre in the middle, is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees.

Lisbon shopping Avenida da Liberdade trees

It’s a lovely avenue to wander down, with cafes where you can take a break. 

 Lisbon Shopping Avenida da Liberdade Luis Vuitton boutique

If you are looking for luxury international brands you will find here f.i. Luis Vuitton, Emporio Armani and Escada fashionable boutiques.

 Shopping in Lisbon Avenida da Liberdade

Be prepared: the prices are the same as in any of these shops in London or Paris.

Avenida da Liberdade Lisbon new Prada shop 2010

PRADA boutique Avenida da Liberdade 249  Lisbon, December 2010

Economic crisis in Portugal? Prada does not believe in the miserable economic situation in Portugal and opened a store in Lisbon in 2010 . It was a long search for the location, because Miuccia Prada did not want just any shop. It eventually became a building on the Avenida de Liberdade, one of Lisbon’s main shopping streets. Two floors and 650 m2 of clothing, make-up and perfume.

Lisbon shopping Avenida da Liberdade architecture

Many of the original buildings of the avenue have been replaced in the last decades by tall offices and hotel buildings. Nowadays it boasts several interesting buildings that reflect Portuguese architecture from the late 19th through the early 21st centuries and the Moorish influence.

Lisbon shopping Avenida da Liberdade architecture

Lisbon shopping: charming & trendy Rua do Carmo, top desginer Ana Salazar & ‘Luvaria Ulisses’, famous little glove store

The easiest way to get to Rua do Carmo is from the central square Rossio

Lisbon shopping Rua do Carmo

From Rossio you walk up to Rua do Carmo.

There are trendy shops of international brands and some other traditional and very old ones.

Lisbon shopping Rua do Carmo police

Rua do Carmo. Lisbon

Lisbon Shopping Rua do Carmo Gloves Shop

Famous little glove store ‘Luvaria Ulisses’, Rua do Carmo nr 87 A

This very small shop has his own production of tailor made gloves from any design. A real tourist attraction.

shopping Lisbon Rua do Carmo Ana Salazar2

The small gloves shop is near Ana Salazar’s Boutique, one of Portugal’s top designers.

Ana Salazar was born and lives in Lisbon. During the 70’s, she started to work on the Fashion scene, developing a new concept of clothing in Portugal, changing completely the way of presenting fashion shows in Portugal, creating the first Fashion Events, exhibits and expositions.

Lidbon Shopping Rua do Carmo shop Carina

The beautiful decorated shop ‘Au Bonheur des Dames‘,

Once a perfume shop, is nowadays a woman’s boutique with a cool selection of funky and trendy clothes. Most shops open between 9 and 10 A.M. They close for lunch between 1 and 3 P.M. and close at 7 P.M.

Lisbon Shopping Rua do Carmo Jewelry


(Joalharia) Jewelry do Carmo, Rua do Carmo 87B, is one of the best shops in the city. All the silver pieces are handmade, it’s really worth a visit.

Bairro Alto (1) Lisbon at daytime: trendy shops, art galleries & fashion queen Fatima Lopes

Lisbon Bairro Alto (high neighborhood) or just Bairro, in the afternoon.

Bairro Alto by day beautiful flowers

During the day Bairro Alto is very quiet.

Elder people with coloured plastic bags are coming back from the market, having a chat with eachother while they slowly climb the steepy streets. The atmosphere is very relaxed. In the shops and in the cafes people take their time to make a friendly neighbourly talk.

Bairro Alto by day

The area has traditionally been Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers.

All the major Portuguese newspapers had their offices in Bairro Alto. This picturesque heart of Lisbon’s youth culture, nightlife, shopping and entertainment district, is one of the oldest districts of Lisbon dating from the 16th century.

Bairro Alto Rua da Rosa by day

(Rua da Rosa).

Since the 1990s, Bairro Alto went through major changes. Lisbon’s city council made extensive repairs, and dozens of new restaurants and fado singing clubs animated the area. Trendy shops were opened. Many young people moved into the area. Cars were banned (except for residents and emergency vehicles).

Bairro Alto by day trendy shop

Agência 117, Rua do Norte 117, ‘skunk funk’ fashion.

Nowadays, in Bairro Alto Lisbon’s punk, gay, heavy metal music, goth, hiphop and reggae scenes all have the Bairro as their home, due to the number of clubs and bars dedicated to each of them.

BairroAlto at by day graffiti

During daytime, the Bairro is a traditional district where older people shop for groceries, and the younger generations visit art galleries like Zé dos BoisRua da Barroca 59, bookshops like Ler Devagar (litt. read slowly, nowadays this wonderful shop is situated in LX factory), arty gift shops like Hold Me, Rua do Norte 33, offering a collection of bags and luggage.

Bairro Alto by day shop Fatima Lopez

Local fashion queen Fatima Lopes’ shop , Rua da Atalaia 36.

Grandma Duck

Beautiful clothes, but according to me the window mannequins look like grandma Duck injected with lots of Botox shots…. 😉 😉

Bairro Alto by day graffiti

Despite the police presence, illegal drugs are sold in the streets. Bairro Alto struggles with a problem of graffiti, destroying historical buildings . More……Bairro Alto by night