Historic square ‘Largo do Carmo’ Lisbon: gothic ruins, Eurovision Song Contest 1974 & bloodless military coup

Wonderful Largo do Carmo  is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon: beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!

Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

Lisbon Largo do Carmo1

Largo do Carmo, springtime 2014

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio,

10 minutes walk from this wonderful square

Lisbon square Largo do Carmo kiosk 2

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo wikipedia jacarandas

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Largo do Carmo Military Police Station

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  theCarnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

25-abril Carnation Revolution 1974 Lisbon

Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos)

was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.

More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum 1

Largo do Carmo Lisbon
Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa2
Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755
Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno Álvares Pereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died.
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa3
 Largo do Carmo Lisbon: amazing view over Lisbon
 How to get there? How to avoid ticket queues !
The famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa video), Rua do Santa Gusta, built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high), can bring you to the Carmo Square.  
As an alternative to the elevator (and to avoid the ticket office queues  – which can be horrendous) – I prefer to walk via Rua Garrett, and turn right into Calçada do Sacramento, it’s not too steep!
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Santa Justa lift view from roof terrace warehouse Pollux
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Beautiful city view of Lisbon and Santa Justa Lift
From the roof terrace of Pollux, a huge warehouse, Rua dos Fanqueiros 276. There’s a pleasant roof terrace & bar/cafe.

Breathtaking views Lisbon: ferry to Cacilhas (part of Lisbon) excellent lunch & elevator to Cristo Rei statue

A few days in Lisbon? Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes) to Cacilhas , a part of Almada, Lisbon, at the other side of the river Tagus. (Returnticket: cheap)

Ferry Lisbon Tagus River Martijn Kramers

Cais do Sodré, Lisbon, ferry to Cacilhas (near the railway station). Picture: Martijn Kramers

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (100 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with lovely patio

Cacilhas is a picturesque neighborhood of Lisbon in the banks of the river best known by its Cervejarias (traditional beer houses) also offering shellfish, seafood, and fresh fish.

Lisbon restaurants O Farol Cacilhas

Cervejaria/restaurant Farol Lisbon

Ferry timetable from Lisbon to Cacilhas

Restaurant/CervejariaFarol” (lighthouse) is just by the ferry-terminal, the food is finger licking good! We enjoyed a fresh dourada (sea bream). A Cervejaria is a ‘beerhouse’, where beer is produced (or used to be produced) and where you can eat as well. There are many cervejaria’s around and in Lisbon and the quality of the food is normally very good.

Lisbon restaurants ‘O Farol’ seafood Dourada

Restaurant/CervejariaFarol”: delicious sea bream (dourada) Lisbon

Website restaurant ‘Farol Delicious food! Not very expensive  🙂 🙂  YouTube

From restaurant ‘Farol’ you can walk along the river to the elevator to reach the famous Cristo Rei statue and enjoy the wonderful view on downtown Lisbon.

Lisbon Cacilhas Amada ruined warehouses

Abandoned and ruinous old warehouses in Cacilhas, Lisbon on the other side of the river Tagus

Elevator to Cristo Rei Statue

After passing some abandoned and ruinous very old warehouses (wonderful old buildings!) and 2 restaurants: ‘Atire-te-ao-rio’, which means ‘throw yourself into the river’, and restaurant Ponto Final, you can go by elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te-ao-rio’, 10 minutes walk from the ferry, September 2017

Brasilian restaurant and a perfect romantic location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night.

Lisbon Restaurant Ponto Final view bridge

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’,  Lisbon

Very good Portuguese cuisine, beautiful views!

Lisbon restaurant Ponto Final, Hans Arjen

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, Lisbon

Amazing view, especially while the sun is fading….(romantic!)

Lisbon elevator to Cristo Rei statue

Close: elevator to reach the Cristo Rei Statue.

Lisbon Cristo Rei statue

Cristo Rei Statue Lisbon

A sweeping view of the city and Ponte 25 de Abril (25th of April Bridge) from the top of the 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’. View from Cristo Rei Movie

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Cristo Rei view Tagus river

Ferry timetable from Lisbon to Cacilhas

Park Eduard VII Lisbon, Greenhouse (Estufa Fria): exotic tropical flora, children’s park & tasty lunch Central Parque Kiosk

Park Eduard VII in Lisbon is popular: people from all over the world make amazing photos from the top of the park. It is also really worth it to visit the Greenhouse at the end of the park and the kiosk with a terrace where you can enjoy your coffee or lunch. Great place for families with children!

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Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (litt. the Cold House), November 2016

Wonderful atmosphere

The Estufa Fria de Lisboa is an eight hectare greenhouse that was erected in 1933 by architect Raul Carapinha, located in Eduardo VII Park, one of the most important parks that exist in the city. It is one of the most visited sites, by both students and tourists. MAP
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Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (litt. the Cold House), November 2016
The Greenhouse, initially thought out as a place to simply shelter various types of plants, it has become one of the most pleasant green spaces in Lisbon, where you can spend a few enjoyable hours between lakes, waterfalls, brooks, statues and hundreds of different plant specimens from all over the world. A place that gives its visitors a sense of tranquility and well being.

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Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria, November 2016

Lisbon Greenhouse & three different areas

This Greenhouse is managed by the Lisbon City Council and is divided into three different areas: (Estufa Fria), litt. the cold house, without heating system; Estufa Quente (the Hot House), with glass dome, and the smaller Estufa Doce, (Sweet House), where cactusses are grown.

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Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (the Cold House), November 2016

The Greenhouse’s history

The Estufa Fria started being planted in 1910, as a part of the urban plan of the Park Eduaro VII. In 1975 the ‘Hothouse’ and the ‘Sweet House’ were open to the public. These new exhibitions had tropical and equatorial plants on permanent display.

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Wonderful! Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (the Cold House), November 2016

Tickets

Adults: € 3,10, children and teenagers (6/18): € 2,33, students, pensioners: € 1,55. More information…. WEBSITE  Estufa Fria (source)  Facebook

Location: Estufa Fria de Lisboa, Parque Eduardo VII Lisbon

Open: in summertime from 10:00-19:00, wintertime 10:00-17:00. More….

Small lake near the Greenhouse in Park Eduard VII Lisbon & friend Margarethe de Vrieze

Lovely lake with ducks and geese 

Walking out of the Estufa Fria Greenhouse there’s a lake with ducks and geese and a kiosk with a terrace where you can enjoy your coffee or lunch. A lovely and quiet place, also for kids.

Lunch at Central Parque Quiosque, near the Greenhouse, Park Eduard VII Lisbon september 2017

Central Parque Quiosque & tasty lunch 

This is not the first time we went here for lunch, because my friends Alexandra Tops and Margarethe de Vrieze recommended this lovely place in the park where you can order good food for affordable prices.

Lunch at Central Parque Quiosque, near the Greenhouse, Park Eduard VII Lisbon

Ideal place for families with children (they sell pizzas and icecream 🙂 )

Great place under the umbrellas for a drink while the kids play. The kiosk is located next to the Children’s Park.

Our lunch: amondegas de atum (tuna fish, feta cheese) 8 €; salad with mozzarela e tomates 8 €; tosta e frango (toasted bread with chicken) 5.50 € ; glass of white wine 3.50 €; bottle of water 1.20 €.

Very nice staff & relaxed atmosphere! Jessica Tribolet, Francisco Varela and Santos

Central Parque Quiosque , Park Eduard VII Lisbon
Open: every day from 10:00 – 20:00
Wifi available. Facebook

The wonderful building Pavilhão Carlos Lopes is also located in this park.

The building reopened in February 2017, after extensive remodeling work and is now a large, pleasant space with lovely azulejos tile work on its interior and exterior walls.

Famous Portuguese long-distance runner Carlos Lopes

The pavilion is a venue for temporary exhibitions, while a small permanent exhibition on Carlos Lopes displays the great runner’s trophies and equipment, including the shoes he wore during the Los Angeles Olympic marathon in 1984.

Hours: Daily: 10am-6pm. Map
Admission: Free. Read more
: Portugal Visitor 

How to reach Park Eduardo VII: Metro – Parque or Marquês de Pombal Station 

Breathtaking views Lisbon & 25 April Bridge: Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Cacilhas, short ferry trip & great Portuguese food

When you visit Lisbon , don’t miss the opportunity to visit Cacilhas, the south bank of the river Tagus (Tejo). The views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing! Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus, a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : ca. 4 euro).

Riverfront terrace restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, Cacilhas, amazing view downtown Lisbon. September 2017

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacihas and vice versa

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.

restaurante Ponto FInal view downtown Lisbon

Restaurant Ponto Final’s terrace at lunchtime in June

Reasonable prices

You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.

€20/25 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague

We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.

Bill for 3 persons 58.50 euro.

Lisbon Ponto Final Restaurant Sophie en Jurre 2015 2

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier

Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.

Restaurante Ponto Final uitzicht brug

View 25 April Bridge

It can be rather windy along the river Tagus, so don’t forget a sweater in case you like to have dinner here. Or, order a bottle of wine and a starter, enjoy it outside for at least a glass, then move inside for the main dish.

Restaurant Ponto Final Cacilhas Lisbon amazing view

A warm summer evening while the sun is fading….whow!

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect romantic location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, great view old town Lisbon  🙂

The nearby restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’Portuguese, Brasilian and international cuisine, is also a great place to enjoy your lunch or dinner!

Cacilhas Lisbon view Restaurant Atira-te-ao-rio’ and Cristo Rei statue

Cacilhas and the famous Cristo Rei statue

The elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue  (1 euro returnticket) is situated quite close to restaurant Ponto Final .

Svetlana & Sergy from Prague

Stunning views! Close to the elevator.

Several possibilites how to travel to the Cristo Rei Monument

Ferry-Lisbon Cacilhas

Ferry timetable

From Lisbon, Cais do Sodré ( Lisbon’s major bus, metro & trainstation) to Cacilhas, the other side of the river Tagus and vice versa

Ponto Final Lissabon Ans

During winter season in Lisbon this place is also worth a visit! But it can be rather cold and windy. (sunset video). Picture: Loek Polack

Planning a trip to Lisbon? short term rentals:

My 100 m2 Authentic holiday apartment with 3 bedrooms and sunny patio in the historical part of Lisbon

Cristo Rei Statue, Cacilhas Lisbon

The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Yellyfish. Picture Svetlana Borodina

Restaurant Ponto Final, Cacilhas Cais Ginjal 72, Cacilhas , Almada,

Phone: (00351) 212 732 108. Mail:  pontofinalrest@gmail.comClosed: Tuesday and December 21st till January 21st.

Popular cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao’ near Lisbons’ flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’: excellent food & lovely terrace

After browsing Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra, (early in the morning you can find the best bargains), it’s a good idea to drink a coffee/beer or enjoy a lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao´, (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ .

Terrace cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’  Lisbon

Legendary fleamarket Lisbon

From the terrace you can see a part of Lisbon’s legendary fleamarket, and the Pantheon, in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

This popular restaurant serves real Portugese food for a good price (less than 15 euro).

Lisbon restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra terrace

Restaurant O Panteao de Santa Clara’ near the legendary flea market

Former palace & robbery

The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.

Lisbon Restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food for a good price

If you are not too hungry ask for “meia dose” (half serving). Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food. Price: less than 15 €. From the restaurant you can see the dome of  The Pantheon.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon January ’17

Ths place is one of my favorites. Our lunch (almoço):

Gambas com alho (prawns with garlic) € 9.50, copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1.00. Caril de frango (chicken curry) € 6.90. Agua (small bottle of water) € 1.10, espresso/cafe € 0.80

It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the fleamarket, or a quick nap 😉

Lisbon Feira da Ladra man asleep near restaurant O Panteao

Near the restaurant: legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that ‘fell of a lorry’, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first

Lisbon Feira da Ladra owners restaurant O Panteao

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Restaurant owners Armando Pereira Antunes, his wife Maria Guilherina and the very friendly waiter Celso. Campo Santa Clara 146-A, Lisbon , easy to reach with the legendary tram 28, a ´must do´ Lisbon attraction

The former palace near the fleamarket Lisbon

Looking for a nice place to stay in Lisbon?

My authentic 3 bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (short term rentals)

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado music, Amália Rodrigues & 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Looking for a short term vacation apartment? My three bedroom apartment with sunny patio (30 m2) in this historic area, Mouraria).

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Amália Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Sculpture Portugal’s famous poet Pessoa Lisbon & very popular fotoshoot spot by tourists

Nowadays lots of tourists walk around in Lisbon’s Chiado area and the elegant shopping area Rua Garret. The bronze sculpture of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935),  is extremely popular.

Lisbon cafe A Brasileira tourist attraction statue Fernando Pessoa

Lisbon: famous poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl, almost 80 years after his death!   🙁  😉

Tourist attraction

Famous cafe ‘A Brasileira’  ‘s terrace in Lisbon (Rua Garrett 120) is a real tourist attraction. Poet Fernando Pessoa once was a regular customer. His table in bronze was created by Lagoa Henriques.

Pessoa statue Rua Garett A Brasileira9

Famous old cafe ‘A Brasileira’  (‘The Brazilian’, opened in 1905) Lisbon, Rua Garrett

Who was poet and writer Fernando Pessoa?

Pessoa was largely unknown in Portugal until after his death in 1935. The man has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists nowadays, all day long!

Lisbon Pessoa statue Rua Garrett & friend Hans

Sculpture poet Fernando Pessoa Lisbon & Dutch admirer Hans

‘The best way to travel is to feel’ Pessoa wrote, ‘so feel everything in every possible way.’ Pessoa was born in Lisbon in 1888.

Apart from his high school years which he spent with his mother and half brothers in South Africa, he lived in Lisbon without a break, without taking public holidays, without traveling abroad. He did so with the help of heteronyms, inventing many lives (and cities) out of his own, spent between the Chiado area, where he lived.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcada table Pessoa famous Portuguese writer

Quality Restaurant Martinho da Arcade, Lisbon.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcade Lisbon & Pessoa’s table

Portugal’s famous poet and writer Pessoa spent a lot of his time in cafes (like Cafe Martinho da Arcada, where he wrote and drank a lot . He died in 1935, aged 47.

Pessoa’s table is still there…

Fernando Pessoa

Fernando Pessoa

Casa (house) Fernando Pessoa, Rua Coelho da Rocha, 16, Campo de Ourique.

Open from Monday – Saturday 10:00-18:00.

Pessoa drawing Travessa do Sequeiro

Drawing Fernando Pessoa, Travessa do Sequiero Lisbon

“Acordar”, poem by Álvaro de Campos, one of Fernando Pessoa’s various ‘heteronyms’ (imaginary characters).

“Acordar da cidade de Lisboa mais tarde do que as outras
Acordar da Rua do Ouro
Acordar do Rossio, as portas dos cafés
Acordar…..
E no meio de tudo a gare, que nunca dorme
Como um coração que tem que pulsar através de vigilia e do sono”

“The waking up of Lisbon, later than other cities
The waking up of Rua do Ouro
The waking up of Rossio Square, at the doors of its cafes
Waking up…..
And in the middle of it all the train station, which never rests
Like a heart that has to beat in both waking and sleeping hours”

Pessoa drawing Rua 1 Dezembro Lisbon

Rua Primeiro de Dezembro, April 2009

Looking for a vacation apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals).

Popular restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ Lisbon: delicious typical Portuguese food & fado history

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, you’ll find Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’,  Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and a very informal atmosphere . One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon in June

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon kitchen

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgílio Oliveira, the chef, preparing my lunch.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meia dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon November ’13: lunch Dutch ladies

We enjoyed the menu of the day including duck with rice and steak with a coffee sauce with garlic, 2 bottles of the restaurant’s tasty red house wine (Lisbon region). Total price for 9 persons (in 2013) : 110:50 euro.

Ze da Mouraria dec 16 2015 dameslunch

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December ’15: lunch with Dutch friends

We enjoyed Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) delicious! Jolanda, Liesbeth, Josephine, Margriet, Hendriktje, Gezina and Feikje. Bill including wine (8 persons): around 150 euro.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon street2

Mouraria , Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins has begun recently.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon meat Picanha

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 16. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood

Mouraria, very old historical part of Lisbon

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood fado Severa

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

Ze da Mouraria Lisbon December 16 dames lunch straatje

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street.

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards
Lisbon restaurant Ze da Mouraria fado pictures
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff

Impressive Metro Station area Baixa-Chiado Lisbon: free escalators avoiding stairs from Baixa to Chiado

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado is a unique and impressive subway, opened in 1998, created by architect Álvaro Siza Vieira.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado Rua do Crucifixo entrance

Metro station entrance Baixo-Chiado Lisbon, Rua do Crucifixo.

Metro station Baixo-Chiado is one of the most important transfer stations, and one of the most crowded of Lisbon. New is the extension towards the international Santa Apolónia train station, opening on 19 December 2007, more than five years late due to tunnelling problems at the waterfront.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado entrance tiles

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Beautiful white tiles are covering the station walls.

This metro station has an entrance in the Baixa city center as well as one at a much higher level in the Chiado district, linked by a series of escalators.

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalator

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

Instead of walking (hundreds of stairs from Baixa to Chiado), an alternative and free way is to use the escalators inside the metro station, reaching the Chiado district ca. 5 minutes later.

Of course, walking is also interesting…..

Metro Station Baixa Chiado metro lines

Metro station Baixo-Chiado Lisbon

The Lisbon Metro operates from 6h30 to 01.00. Tickets: cheap 🙂

Metropolitano de Lisboa : Lisbon Metro official page. On this webste (also in English) you’ll find a map with a network diagram and explanation of the lines:

Metro Linha Azul (blue line) Metro Linha Amarela (yellow line) Metro Linha Verde (green line) and Metro Linha Vermelha (red line).

Also including a special section on subway art of Lisbon Metro stations with stunning examples of contemporary azulejos (tiles).

Metro Station Baixa Chiado escalators up to Chiado

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado

Escalators up to the Chiado district.

Metro station Largo do Chiado Pessoa

Cafe ‘A Brasileira’, Largo do Chiado, near the entrance of the Chiado metro station.

The bronze sculpture of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935),  is still very popular. More…….

Bacalhau (codfish, a must-try!), Portugal’s dried, faithful friend & luxury shop Manteigaria Silva Lisbon

The Portuguese have a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).

Fish bacalhau codfish Manteigaria Silva

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

365 different ways to prepare codfish

When you stay in Lisbon or in the wonderful country Portugal, a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

bacalhau-shop1.jpg

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

The smell of dried and salted bacalhau is odd and penetrating……pfffffff… but the taste is absolutely delicious when cooked!

Bacalhau traditional dish in Portugal

Bacaolada, traditional Portuguese bacalhau dish.

Bacalhau deserves a good wine: green (Vinho Verde) or mature wines, from Alentejo, Dão or Douro.

History

For at least 500 years ago the Portuguese learned how to salt cod at sea and sun-dry it. It keeps for many months this way without refrigeration. And then it requires being soaked for 24 hours in changes of water before being used to prepare a dish. The soaking reconstitutes the fish and gets rid of the excessive salt also. Even today, where refrigeration isn’t a problem, the Portuguese have not lost their love for bacalhau. Dishes based on this main ingredient are sure to be a part of most holiday and other celebrations. It’s a staple of the Portuguese diet and you’ll find it prepared in all Portuguese homes and (cheap) restaurants.

One of the reasons for the popularity of bacalhau in Portugal and other catholic countries, was because of the many days on which the Church forbade the eating of meat.

Bacalhau a braz

Very popular: ‘bacalhau à brás’, made from thin strips of cod mixed with onions, and thin strips of potatoes bound by eggs.

Codfish Gomes de sa

Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, cooked in a casserole with thinly sliced potatoes and onions,  garnished with hard-boiled eggs and black olives.

This recipe was invented by Jose Luis Gomes de Sá  Jr., the son of a rich nineteenth century merchant (apparently he dealt in cod) in Porto. The family fortune dwindled and the son had to find a job at the famous restaurant Lisbonense in downtown Porto. It was there that he created the now well known recipe.

Pasteis de Bacalhau

Besides: Pastéis de Bacalhau (codfish pastry), croquetes.

A delicacy and a good idea with a cold glass of Portuguese white wine or beer on tap(imperial)!