Roasted chestnuts Lisbon, November 11 St. Martin’s Day traditions & liqueur Jeropiga

The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.

chestnuts in Lisbon December 08 quente e boas

‘Hot and good, a dozen for € 2“.

Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Chestnuts in Lisbon white paper bag instead of yellow papers

Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon

St. Martin’s Day is celebrated on November 11

It’s called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer).

St. Martin’s Day dinner at home with friends, November 2018

The Portuguese celebrate St. Martin’s Day with jeropiga (a traditional delicious sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

How to make jeropiga 

Tram Lisbon Feliz Natal and roasted chestnuts

Rossio, Lisbon in December

Traditions

On St. Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire.

How to roast chestnuts in the oven

Roasted chestnuts

Chestnuts are roasted, traditional alcoholic drinks are served, like água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent).

Chestnuts and Jeropiga

Chestnuts and jeropiga

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chiado chestnuts

Largo do Chiado, Lisbon

More….

Beautiful Avenida da Liberdade Lisbon, luxury brands & Prada’s window dressing

Beautiful Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue) is located between Restauradores Square and Marquis of Pombal Square. The Avenue was built between 1879 and 1882.

Lisbon shopping Avenida da Liberdade pedestrial center kiss

Avenida da Liberdade Lisbon

This broad boulevard, with a pedestrianised centre in the middle, is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees.

Lisbon shopping Avenida da Liberdade trees

Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon

It’s a lovely avenue to wander down, with cafes where you can take a break.

Lisbon Shopping Avenida da Liberdade Luis Vuitton boutique

Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon

If you are looking for luxury international brands you will find here f.i. Luis Vuitton, Emporio Armani and Escada fashionable boutiques.

Shopping in Lisbon Avenida da Liberdade

Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon

Be prepared: the prices are the same as in any of these shops in London or Paris.

Avenida da Liberdade Lisbon new Prada shop 2010

PRADA boutique Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon

Prada opened a store in Lisbon in 2010 . It was a long search for the location, because Miuccia Prada did not want just any shop. It eventually became a building on the Avenida de Liberdade, one of Lisbon’s main shopping streets.

Avenida da Liberdade, & autumn, September 2021

Many of the original buildings of the avenue have been replaced in the last decades by tall offices and hotel buildings. Nowadays it boasts several interesting buildings that reflect Portuguese architecture from the late 19th through the early 21st centuries and the Moorish influence.

Breathtaking views Lisbon: Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & short ferry trip river Tagus

The south bank of the river Tagus is my favorite place in Lisbon: views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing!

Riverfront terrace restaurant Ponto Final’, Cacilhas, amazing view downtown Lisbon. September 2017

Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus: Cacilhas,  a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : cheap)

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacihas and vice versa

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.

Reasonable prices

You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.

Restaurant Ponto Final Lisbon, September 2019

Great location

€20/25 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague

We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.

Bill for 3 persons  € 58.50.

Lisbon Ponto Final Restaurant Sophie en Jurre 2015 2

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier

Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.

Great customer service & waiters Tiago & Douglas

Romantic location

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, splendid view old town Lisbon

In caserestaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is closed, the neighbor restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’Portuguese and international cuisine, is also a great place to enjoy your lunch or dinner!  🙂

Cacilhas Lisbon view Restaurant Atira-te-ao-rio’ and Cristo Rei statue

Cacilhas and the famous Cristo Rei statue

The elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue (free) is situated quite close to restaurant Ponto Final .

Svetlana & Sergy from Prague

Stunning views! Close to the elevator.

Several possibilites how to travel to the Cristo Rei Monument

Ferry-Lisbon Cacilhas

Ferry from Cais do Sodre , Lisbon to Cacilhas, the other side of the river Tagus

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacilhas and vice versa

During winter season in Lisbon this place is also worth a visit 🙂 !  But it can be rather cold and very windy!

Wintertime Sunset video.

Cristo Rei Statue, Cacilhas, Lisbon

The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.

Yellyfish. Picture Svetlana Borodina

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Lunch July 3, 2021, friend Margriet de Vrieze & delicious pataniscos de bacalhau (salt codfish cakes, recipe in English) 🙂

Restaurant Ponto Final, Cacilhas Cais Ginjal 72, Cacilhas / Almada,

Phone: (00351)  936 869 031 (WhatsApp also). Mail:  pontofinalrest@gmail.com.       Facebook

Popular Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao’ Lisbon: terrace, good local food & fleamarket

After browsing Lisbon’s famous flea market  Feira da Ladra, it’s a good idea to enjoy a lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao’ (Pantheon), located above the market. One of my favorite places in Lisbon 🙂

Terrace cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’  Lisbon

Legendary fleamarket Lisbon

From the terrace you can see a part of Lisbon’s legendary fleamarket, and the Pantheon, in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

May 2021: no lockdown anymore in Lisbon! & friend Margriet 🙂

This popular restaurant serves real Portugese food for a good price (less than 15 euro).

Lisbon restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra terrace

Restaurant O Panteao de Santa Clara’ near the legendary flea market

Former palace & conspiracy

The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.

Lisbon Restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food for a good price

If you are not too hungry ask for “meia dose” (half serving). Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food. Price: less than 15 €. From the restaurant you can see the dome of  The Pantheon.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon January ’17

Ths place is one of my favorites. Our lunch (almoço):

Gambas com alho (prawns with garlic) € 9.50, copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1.00. Caril de frango (chicken curry) € 6.90. Agua (small bottle of water) € 1.10, espresso/cafe € 0.80

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon June 2018

It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the fleamarket, or a quick nap 😉

Lisbon Feira da Ladra man asleep near restaurant O Panteao

Near the restaurant: legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that ‘fell of a lorry’, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first

Lisbon Feira da Ladra owners restaurant O Panteao

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Restaurant owners Armando Pereira Antunes, his wife Maria Guilherina and the very friendly waiter Celso. Campo Santa Clara 146-A, Lisbon , easy to reach with the legendary tram 28, a ´must do´ Lisbon attraction

The former palace near the fleamarket in Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’: hidden gem in Lisbon’s historical city center

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, there’s Restaurant Zé da Mouraria’. Open for a typical Portuguese lunch (almoço) from 12:00 till 16:00. Closed on Sundays.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff, June 2019

Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and an informal atmosphere  🙂

Lunches only. One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, street Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon, June 2019

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center of Lisbon are decorated with garlands and lights. Party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Chef Ricardo & codfish (bacalhau) a very popular dish in Portugal

Large food portions meant for sharing

The menu varies every day. Restaurant Zé da Mouraria serves large food portions, meant for sharing. If you go to this restaurant with 2 people order for 1 person instead of ordering for 2 !  🙂

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December 2017

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving). Bill for 2 persons, including wine, water and coffee: € 22,50.  Desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

June 2019: Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Artur Domingos 😉

On the wall in this restaurant there’s lots of portraits of famous fado singers, born in this neighborhood: Mouraria.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon June 2019

Fado music

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. More…..

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon June 2019

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays it is a trendy area.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon, June 2019

Delicious: codfish (bacalhau). When you stay in Lisbon a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street. Go early ( around 12:00 o’clock) or around 15:00. One of the best Lisbon restaurants!  🙂

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier, July 2019

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards. 
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Designer Alberto Gourgel Lisbon: unique pieces, atelier & vintage store

Close to tourist attraction fleamarket Feira da Ladra in Lisbon there’s the studio of designer Alberto Gourgel. Where? Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

March 2021: designer Alberto Gourgel’s atelier & lovely cat Gordon in Lisbon

Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975. ” I studied in a boarding school in Angola, but due to economical problems my brother and I moved to Lisbon in 1983. Being a kid, I already had a lot of creative ideas”.

Feira da Ladra Flea Market Lisbon Alberto Gourgel designer

2008: Market A Feira da Ladra‘  (Lisbon’s famous flea market)

Original Portuguese magazines

Alberto Gourgel & vintage suitcases decorated with original vintage Portuguese magazines.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

You can find Alberto and his beautiful creations in his atelier/shop quite near the market:

Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon

Feira da Ladra Alberto Gourgel old fashioned suitcases

Legendary market in Lisbon: Feira da Ladra

Alberto ( in 2008): ”The last years, I’m in to ‘vintage’, and I’m fascinated with the beautiful 20th Century Portuguese ‘vogue’ magazines. It’s not easy finding them, sometimes I’m lucky in a small museum or in very old bookshops”.

Feira da Ladra Lisbon Alberto Gourgel6

Alberto Gourgel

Alberto: “The vernis is made by hand, an ancient procedure. It takes a lot of time because it’s very important to keep the original colors”. Besides Alberto decorates posters, walls, doors and room separators.

Visit Alberto’s weblog

Feira da Ladra Alberto Gourgel3

Alberto Gourgel

Tourists from all over the world

Flea market “Feira da Ladra”  (Campo de Santa Clara) is visited by lots of tourists from all over the world. The market in Alfama dates back around 800 years, though it may have been named ‘Feira da Ladra’ as late as the 17th century.

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2009: Alberto Gourgel , Feira da Ladra Lisbon

‘Biombo’ ( a room separator) created by Alberto Gourgel.  Prices from 75- 125 euro.

 famous market Feira da Ladra

Alberto Gourgel lamp bedroom Mouraria

A creation of Alberto Gourgel in my house in Lisbon

Alberto’s work is also for sale in some antique shops in Lisbon and in loja (shop) ‘A Vida Portuguesa’. Owner is Catarina Portas. She has a passion for Portuguese identity, and everyday Catarina brings objects of the past back to life to inhabit modern-day homes.

Lisbon A Vida Portuguesa Alberto Gourgel

Shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’,

Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado Lisbon

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, January 2019

Alberto Gourgel & friend Margaretha de Vrieze

March 2021: unique lamp in my apartment

Alberto Gourgel Atelier / vintage shop
 Rua Salvador 83 , Lisbon       Facebook

algourgel@gmail.com – (00351) 962480996

Popular Rua das Portas de Santo Antão Lisbon & avoid restaurant Torremolinos

Lisbon is probably the best place in Europe to enjoy seafood. There are a couple of very popular ‘tourist restaurant’ streets,  such as Rua das Portas de Santo Antão where you will find a wide selection of options.

Lisbon Rossio near Restauradores

The lively street just behind the National Theater Doña Maria II at Largo de São Domingos, near Rossio Square and Restauradores, is a real mecca for seafood lovers, and a very popular tourist street.

Lisbon restaurants R. das Portas de Santo Antão 2

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão: rather touristy and aggressive waiters

The street name dates from the 15th C. when a gate in the former town wall stood here. There’s also some very interesting buildings to be seen. The restaurants are well positioned for people-watching, prices are not really cheap, but the quality is good. In general, this street is rather touristy and the waiters are sometimes a bit aggressive in their approach to tourists.

Shrimps and lobster window restaurant

One of the restaurant windows, with fresh lobsters and shrimps.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão , just north of Rossio, is one of the few streets in Lisbon where you’ll be approached by waiters in the street trying to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Lisbon popular tourist street Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 11

‘Free’ starters

Be prepared: in the more expensive and touristical restaurants in Lisbon you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarão). They are not a part of the meal! You won’t pay for them if you don’t eat them, and often the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. More ……

If you don’t speak Portuguese, make sure you’ve got your dictionary handy!

restaurant-cervejeria-inhaca-rua-das-portas-de-s-antao.jpg

Restaurante Cervejaria Inhaca

Cervejaria means ‘beerhouse’, where beer is produced (or used to be produced) and where you can eat as well. There are many Cervejaria’s in Lisbon (like the well known restaurant Portugalia).

Restaurante Cervejaria INHACA

Finger licking good, but expensive

Shrimp and lobster dishes for 2 persons, about € 55, except drinks. Restaurant Inhaca, R. das Portas de Santo Antão 8.

Avoid restaurant Torremolinos, a tourist trap, 🙁    read this

( 2020: the name Torremolinos on the facade has recently been removed)

In general: make sure you are aware of what you are being charged for. Most of the restaurants in this area are tourist traps.

A few great restaurants in this street: former palace Casa do Alentejo (a hidden gem!), or restaurant Gambrinus .

Restaurant Solar dos Presuntos, R. Portas de Santo Antão 150, YouTube

A good idea is to walk around and eat in a restaurant where there are no tourists in sight…….

For seafood lovers, go to one of Lisbon’s best seafood restaurants ‘RAMIRO’, also open on Sundays (Intendente).

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 🙁

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 .

Facebook 

YouTube:  Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares  (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria 🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau, Mouraria Lisbon, November 2019
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau lunch (almoço) has a fixed price of 35 € per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere 🙂
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Taberna do Calhau Mouraria Lisbon & very nice waiter
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb).
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (25 ).  🙂
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

Facebook

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: Pedro & Dina

Cozy terrace in a courtyard . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).

Very friendly owners​!  🙂

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: dish of the day (6.50 euro)

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Bill for 3 persons 27 euro

Grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno (& bakery Doce Mila) area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant Beco do Forno is open every day from 10:00 – 16:00 and from 19:00 till 21:30. Closed on Sunday

Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

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Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

€ 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes € 5,50 –  € 7,50. Rice € 1.50. Bottle of water € 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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Calçada do Duque Lisbon: hundreds of stairs & Restaurant Solar du Duque

From Bairro Alto you can walk to Rossio The hundreds of stairs lead you down to Calçada do Duque starting in Rua Nova da Trindade

Calcada do Duque from Rua Nova da Trindada

Rua Nova da Trindade,

Close to area Bairro Alto (litt. ‘high neighborhood’). During the day a very relaxed area with trendy shops. Traditionally been Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, a hotspot for people who love nightlife.

Lisbon, Calçada do Duque in wintertime

A few hundred steps that connect the higher-lying Bairro Alto district to Rossio square.

Calcada do Duque stairs restaurants and view Caselo St George

Calçada do Duque, Lisbon

The stairs are lined with lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants (not the cheapest).

Background: Saint George’s Castle (Castelo de São Jorge), a wonderful view!

Traditional Portuguese meals, local price 🙂 & also typical Portugues: hanging laundry 😉

Restaurant Solar du Duque, Rua do Duque 67, Lisbon.  A simple and pleasant space with a casual atmosphere. Facebook

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September 2019: Toon Mulder en Thirza van Deene

Almost downstairs, Calçada do Carmo . View on Rossio square ( official name: Praça Dom Pedro IV)

Calcada do Duque near Rossio stairs and station

The beautiful Rossio station

Saturday biological market Príncipe Real Lisbon & amazing centuries-old trees

The park in area Príncipe Real in Lisbon is a gorgeous location! Centuries-old beautiful trees and shadowed terraces . Besides: a biological market is held here every Saturday morning 🙂

This century-old cedar ‘umbrella’ (20 meters) tree is really amazing!

Park Príncipe Real (Royal Prince) Lisboncharming & quiet  area

Beautiful trees and terraces to drink your bica (espresso), and besides not expensive ! The atmosphere is very relaxed.

Park Príncipe Real Lisbon. Picture: Rufus Ketting

This park is an extension of area Bairro Alto, in which plenty of bars and (also gay) clubs are in easy reach.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon 

Park Príncipe Real, and the nearby Botanical Garden of the University of Lisbon (one of Europe’s finest!) are great for relaxing.

Shopping & renovated historical buildings

Designer boutiques and art galleries are housing in wonderful renovated historical buildings.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon, Saturday biological market: Pedro & Dina

The small Moorish kiosk is one of the lovely designed kiosks (quiosque) in Lisbon, serving old-fashioned Portuguese refreshments and snacks.

On August 6, 711 Lisbon was taken by the Moors, 400 years later the city returned to Christian rule.  Nowadays the Moorish influence is still present.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon: Saturday biological market

Biological market every Saturday from 9:00-3:00

Around the park, the Biological Products Fair (Feira de Produtos Biológicos) is held every week on Saturdays at Jardim França Borges, commonly known as Jardim do Príncipe Real.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon: Saturday biological market

At Lisbon’s weekly organic farmers market producers from all around the country sell most varied natural products, from vegetables to cosmetics, honey and wine. Bargaining is always possible and appropriate.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon & home made compotes ‘doces da Paulinha’

‘Doces da Paulinha’ (sweet and savory): traditional flavors, with organic products, handcrafted with love . Facebook

The 13 best markets in Lisbon (by Atlas)

Restaurants in this area

There are several good places to have lunch or dinner, such as one of my favorites, Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero with a lovely outdour dining area, or trendy restaurantO Prego da Peixaria:  excellent steak or fish.

Lisbon Principe Real Rua dom Pedro V Cunha Palace

Rua dom Pedro V, no. 26 : Arabesque Ribeiro da Cunha Palace (1877)

Principe Real’s Rua dom Pedro V  is one of the most interesting streets of Lisbon to walk around. In recent years, the neighborhood has become a great place to shop . Watch out for pickpocking  )-:

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real

There are incredible stores, such as Embaixada (the Embassy), ​​which was built in 1877 and now houses design shops, fashion and gastronomy in wonderful spaces.   Website

YouTube : the Rebirth of Lisbon’s Principe Real District

Shopping store Embaixada is located in Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, a XIX century new-Arabian Palace, one of the most iconic buildings in this neighbourhood. Facebook

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real,  no. 26 Lisbon

Park Príncipe Real Lisbon