Category: Video

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Lisbon & autumn: smell of roasted chestnuts & St. Martin’s Day traditions

The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. ‘Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.

Lisbon city centre in autumn

Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon

St. Martin’s Day is celebrated on November 11

It’s called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer).

St. Martin’s Day dinner at home with friends, November 2018

The Portuguese celebrate St. Martin’s Day with jeropiga (a traditional delicious sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

Tram Lisbon Feliz Natal and roasted chestnuts

Rossio, Lisbon in December & Christmas trams

Traditions

On St. Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire.

How to roast chestnuts in the oven

Roasted chestnuts

Chestnuts are roasted, traditional alcoholic drinks are served, like água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent).

Chestnuts and Jeropiga

Tradition: chestnuts and jeropiga

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chiado chestnuts

Largo do Chiado, Lisbon

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Restaurant Clube Naval Lisbon: fresh fish, sailing school & great riverfront lunch

Located on a privileged spot right near the river Tagus, a view at the 25 April Bridge and right next to the Bélem Marina, Restaurant do Clube Naval in Lisbon is a great experience!

Restaurant do Clube Naval Belém Lisbon & children sailing lessons

The bright sunlight of Lisbon floods the terrace on the ground floor. On the first floor there’s Clube Naval’s cosy restaurant overlooking the river through the enormous glass windows.

Restaurant do Clube Naval Belém Lisbon, January 2017

The inside first floor restaurant is a great place during the colder wintermonths.

Especially on Sundays Portuguese families like to enjoy a lunch together. Go early.  Great atmosphere 🙂

Restaurant do Clube Naval Belém Lisbon, January 2017

​Excellent f​resh fish & daily suggestion (prato do dia)

Very friendly waiters! The menu is varied: always fresh fish and traditional Portuguese dishes, like f.i. roasted fish fillet with razor clams, prawns and sirloin steak.

Restaurant do Clube Naval Belém Lisbon & Rinus Broere, 2024

Because the climate in Lisbon is mild all year round, it is often possible to enjoy your meal on the terrace near the river.

YouTube: Loesje, Rinus & Nelson January 2024

Bill for 3 persons: 2 x dourada (sea bream), bife atum  (tuna steak) & delicious bottle of Portuguese white (house) wine € 11 ): € 107

Restaurant do Clube Naval Belém Lisbon , September 2018 & Josephine Lucassen, tourist guide

Daily suggestion (prato do dia).

Octopus salad (salada de polvo), mussels (mexilhões). Ask for the ‘daily suggestion’ (prato do dia).

Lisbon, Belém & Monument to the Discoveries

Restaurant Clube de Naval’s terrace & Monument to the Discoveries

The restaurant is located right next to the Bélem Marina and the Monument to the Discoveries ( Padrão dos Descobrimentos). A visit to this historic city region of Belém is a must for every Lisbon visitor!

Restaurant do Clube Naval Belém Lisbon & river Tagus esplanade

O Clube Naval de Lisboa (Sailing school)

The restaurant is located in a part of a building of a sailing school, founded in 1892, a private non-profit association. The school currently has a paddling tank, various types of boats for learning rowing and sailing. 160 years celebration: YouTube

Building Associação Naval (Sailing Association) & beautiful mural

Restaurant do Club de Naval
Brasília Avenue, Belém Dock, Lisbon Naval Club Building
Open: Wednesday – Monday 12h – 22h (closed Tuesday).
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Website & menu ( in Portuguese and in English)
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Terrace Restaurant Club de Naval Belem Lisbon, June 2023
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From Lisbon by train from Cais do Sodré railway station : stop Belém (Linha de Cascais). Facebook

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Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ Mouraria Lisbon: great food & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden in Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

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Square Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow)

Wonderful very old fountain.  Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

May 2023: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow), December 2018

Knitted graffiti

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti 🙂

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia among others, and homemade cakes.

August 2018: Dorade (larded with peppers)  € 12, 50. Delicious!

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

Home made chocolate cake  € 3:60

When entering restaurant O Corvo it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another, greater room. The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2018:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ Lisbon & Margriet de Vrieze

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂
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Lisbon & LEME ATELIER/art gallery: Artist Paula Paes Leme’s colourful creations

Last week we visited an art gallery in Lisbon: LEME ATELIER, in the elegant historic Lapa neighborhood. It was worth it!

Atelier Paula Paes Leme & Bicycles series, acrylic on canvas

‘Paula’s Bicycles‘ is a series of paintings that combines collage and acrylic on canvas. Each painting features the black shadow of a bicycle superimposed on a different background or landscape.

Atelier Paula Paes Leme Lisbon

Amsterdam, the city of bikes

The striking and original backgrounds represent well-known landmarks such as the Egyptian pyramids, the Belém Tower in Lisbon, and the canals of Amsterdam, the city of bikes. Each bike has a story to be discovered.

Atelier Paula Paes Leme Lisbon & husband Romulo Cavendish

Paula Paes Leme is a Brazilian artist known for her vibrant, lively
and colorful paintings.

Paula’s work is diverse and includes both figurative and abstract paintings inspired by her Brazilian heritage and travels.

Atelier Paula Paes Leme Lisbon & lovely dog Odette

Paula’ s artistic journey has taken her to the forefront of the fashion and art worlds, and her work has been and is exhibited internationally.

Atelier Paula Paes Leme, Lisbon

Popular place for art lovers in Lisbon

LEME Atelier is a popular destination for art lovers in Lisbon,
and regularly hosts exhibitions and events featuring Leme’s work.
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Instagram designer Paloma Gonzalex-Espejo
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After visiting LEME ATELIER, lunch with members of NV Lissabon
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Restaurant Bondi Bowls, healthy Bowls & Poke
Named after Bondi, the famous beach in Australia. The spicy curry with jasmin rice is lovely!
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Next to Paula’s atelier in this beautiful historic building, owned by Alexandre Jeannot. Co-working space.  Instagram 
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Dogs are welcome!

LEME ATELIER: OPEN Monday to Saturday from 10h00 – 18h00, other times possible on appointment.  Instagram    WEBSITE

Rua Garcia da Orta, 71 – Lojas 4 & 5​, Lisbon

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Contact

Bom dia! My name is Julie, I’m living in Amsterdam and I love this wonderful city, but I also fell in love with Lisbon!

Lisbon & the castle of St John. Square: Martim Moniz 2010

We (together with my son) started a blog in 2008, ‘ a Lisbon guide from the inside’,  with lots of ideas to discover Lisbon.

In 2002, I bought an apartment in Lisbon in the historical area Mouraria.

Room & 3- bedroom apartment area Mouraria Lisbon

 It is not possible to rent this house

3-bedroom apartment Mouraria in Lisbon & lovely patio

Patio (25 m2) & kitchen in summertime

YouTube: 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon

Apartment Mouraria patio

flowering jasmin (March 2019)

Much more about 900 years old area Mouraria in Lisbon

Rua do Terreirinho, historic area Mouraria, in the heart of Lisbon’s city center, 2019

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Unique bar ‘Pensão Amor’ (brothel) Lisbon: former red light district & pole dance

Bar Pensão Amor nowadays has several new features:  Lisboa Secreta

Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon, located near the river Tagus, was for decades known as a street in the city’s red light district with bars named after European capitals (like Copenhagen,  Oslo or Roterdão (Rotterdam) and Jamaica to attract the sailors who stepped off their boats here.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: wonderful drawings on the walls of the stairs

Former red light district In Lisbon

‘Pensão Amor’ is located in a typical Portuguese 18th-century building. Once a cheap pension with rooms rented by the hour to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love 😉

Along the 5 floors of the building you can admire remake copies of old posters from burlesque shows and peep shows.

Drawing artist Mario Belem

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes

Wonderful décor

The ceilings of this former ‘guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: the pole dance room

Pole dance & YouTube: Marina mey

Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon

Area Cais do Sodré  

Nowadays this area is a hip and trendy region in Lisbon. YouTube

Rua Nova do Carvalho is a street lined with hip bars and clubs that become crowded after 2AM when the bars in the legendary area Bairro Alto start to close.

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy pink street in Lisbon

More remarkable bars in this street:

bar/cafe Sol e Pesca, and Bar da Velha Senhora (Old Ladies Bar).

‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – Erika Reusens admires the bar in burlesque style

The bar has two entrances:  Rua do Alecrim 19  including an outside café terrace) and on Rua Nova do Carvalho.

YouTube ‘Pensão Amor’ & culture Lisbon

Open:  every day.  More information : Facebook

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – stairs to the bar

YouTube

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon : drawing stairs to the bar

Facebook

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LISBON Sacavém: from ‘no-go’ zone to Europe’s largest open-air art gallery

How art can make positive changes! A walking tour in district Sacavém led by excellent guide Kally lasted over 3 hours. We’ll have to go again to admire all the murals (around 120) 🙂 !

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artists : Zag & Sia

Quinta do Mocho & former bad reputation

Sacavém (located in former Quinta do Mocho) once was known as a neighborhood with a bad reputation. Today we visit what has become popular as the “largest open-air urban art gallery in Europe”.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & guide Kally.  Artist: Abraham Osorio 

2014: Street Art Festival with artists from all over the world

For a long time in Sacavém everything was abandoned. Taxis and buses no longer circulated in the area. To rehabilitate the neighborhood, the Câmara Municipal (town hall) organized a Street Art Festival in 2014. Since then, this Festival  is organised almost every year.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artist MAYE

Quinta do Mocho & former Portuguese colonies

The Quinta do Mocho social housing project, consisting of four-story buildings, was built in the 1990s to house 3.000 people, mostly from former Portuguese colonies in Africa, Cape Verde, Guinea and Angola. Social exclusion, high unemployment and poor housing standards contributed to the area having high crime rates and various social problems.

Sacavém, September 13. Picture (with permission): Margriet de Vrieze

Turning point in 2014

The creation of the urban Art Festival was a turning point in the history of Quinta do Mocho. According to local officials, since the murals were painted, a bus line now serves the area, cultural events have multiplied, and the crime rate has fallen. All the buildings, owned by the local government, are rented out to low-income families .  Source: WikiPedia

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artists Coletivo Licuado

Nowadays around 120 murals are coloring the buildings, in a creative line-up that covers the work of national and international famous artists – such as Bordalo II, Vhils (both Portuguese) Odeith, Slap, Adrés or Pantónio.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artist ÔJE

This video gives a good impression of the neighborhood with all the monotonous buildings :

YouTube: Quinta do Mocho – Galeria de Arte Publica

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artist MAYE

First guided tour was organised in 2015.

Nowadays, every week, groups of tourists come to admire the mural paintings based on various themes such as racial discrimination, children’s rights, or justice.

The neighbourhood felt quiet and peaceful when we walked around.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & portrait of Amilcar Cabral, by Portuguese artist Antonio Alves

The “40 years, 40 murals” initiative, aimed at marking the 40th anniversary of the 25th of April (freedom!) in Portugal. To remember the great African nationalist Amilcar Cabral, founder of the African Party for the Independence of Guinea and Cape Verde, murdered in 1973.

Sacavém & artist Bordalo II. Picture: Margriet de Vrieze

All artworks of Bordalo II are created with GARBAGE .

The excessive production and consumption of stuff, which results in the continuous production of “garbage” and consequently in the destruction of the Planet, are the central themes of his production.

Street art Utopia & collection of street art by Bordalo II

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery, guide Kally & artist Untay

Visit Sacavém & excellent tourist guide Kally

When you visit Lisbon and you like street art, take the time to visit Sacavém. It’s really amazing! We (members of NV Lissabon, Dutch Society), spent half a day there. Our guide Kally lives in the neighborhood and he knows a lot of stories about the murals and their creators.

Sacavém:  guide Kally & members of NV Lissabon (Dutch Society)

The tour starts at the Casa da Cultura de Sacavém, where Kally briefly explains (in English) about the murals that can be seen here as maquettes.

YouTube: Casa de Cultura de Sacavém & maquettes of all murals

Casa da Cultura de Sacavém & Mexican artist Eva Bracamontes ( maquette)

How to book a guided tour via Guias do Mocho:

guiasdomocho@gmail.com
Whatsapp: +351 967815872
Or via a message on Facebook.  Price: €10 per person. You can enjoy an African lunch (€15 pp) afterwards in a small restaurant.

How to get there?  Quinta Do Mocho is located in Sacavém close to Lisbon’s airport. Bus 310 from Oriente is an option but taxis are quite cheap in Portugal.

Meeting point:  Casa da Cultura de Sacavém,  Urbanização dos Terraços da Ponte, 2685-155, Sacavém

Coffee break: Cafe ‘O Cantinho da Anita’, Sacavém & Dutch visitors NV Lissabon, September 13, 2023

 

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Passionate Portuguese artist Bruno Netto & ‘Mural of memory’ area Mouraria Lisbon

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Almost 2 years ago I moved from an apartment in historic area Mouraria in Lisbon to a house in the surrounding district, in Laranjeiro.
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Artist Bruno Netto & huge mural Laranjeiro metro stop, July 2021
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Mural in Laranjeiro: ‘Landmark of Almada’
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Close to my new house there’s the metro stop. The wonderful mural there impressed me! 🙂 . Designed by artist Bruno Netto, commissioned by the municipality of Laranjeiro & Feijo (more pictures)
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Artist Bruno Netto at work & ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden
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Bruno Netto was born in Lisbon, but he also speaks Dutch, he lived and worked many years in Holland.
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Part of ‘Mural of memory’ about historic area Mouraria  Lisbon
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Mouraria, historic area in Lisbon city center

For over 20 years I owned an apartment in the historic center of Lisbon, Mouraria.  This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased a lot the last few years.

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Artist Bruno Netto at work & ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden
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Almost a year ago I adopted Nelson, he is such a sweet and funny little dog!  YouTube: Bruno Netto singing while painting & dog Nelson  😉 😉
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There’re so many memories of the years I spent in this very old neighborhood in the heart of Lisbon! That’s why I decided to ask artist Bruno Netto about his ideas for a mural about Mouraria in my garden.
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Artist Bruno Netto at work & ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden
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Bruno created a conceptual design, started drawing and then, bit by bit, he painted the wall.  Wonderful!
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Tram 28, first fado singer Maria Severa and some other typical features of Mouraria in Lisbon on the wall in my house in Laranjeiro!
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Part of ‘Mural of memory’ & Nelson, Mouraria Lisbon
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Who is Bruno Netto?
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Artist Bruno Netto: ‘Mural of memory ‘& Maria Severa (first Fado singer)
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Bruno: ‘As a young child, I’ve always liked to draw and paint, and I knew I was destined to become a painter. Murals came later in my life, when I was in Mexico and was fascinated about the work of Diego Rivera, (married to Frida Kahlo), the world’s greatest muralist! More : Bruno Netto’s website
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Interested to talk about a mural in your own garden ?Talk with Bruno 🙂
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Facebook          Instagram: @brunonetto.oficial
 Interview Bruno Portuguese TV,  SIC ‘Domingao’.
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Artist Bruno Netto & ‘Mural of memory’ : swallows (andorinhas)
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Swallows: symbol of love, loyalty, and hope
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Swallows are hanging at many Portuguese houses. The swallow is a bird that has a special place in Portuguese culture. For centuries, it has been a symbol of love, loyalty, and hope.
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Part of the ‘Mural of memory’, about area Mouraria Lisbon
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Part of ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden, at night 🙂 🙂 Youtube
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WHERE TO GO TO DISCOVER MOURARIA in LISBON?
Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses are painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles.
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Recommended: restaurant café ‘O Corvo’ to enjoy your lunch and then walk through the narrow streets in the area :-). ENJOY! How to get there
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Work is done ! It looks amazing!
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Breathtaking views Lisbon: restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, 10-min ferry trip & boat taxi

If you visit Lisbon, a 10-minutes ferry trip to the other side of the Tagus river is really worth it! Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio is one of my favorites, a small paradise! 🙂

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon & delicious (fish) lunch with Margarethe de Vrieze and Marjolein Petersen (& dog Nelson) May 2022

Right next to the elevator to the Cristo Rei Statue, restaurant Atira-te ao Rio (litt. ‘throw yourself into the river’) is a space blessed by fabulous views over old town Lisbon.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon & friend Josephine Lucassen (official tourist guide), March 12, 2020

The menu is typically Portuguese: dishes with good presentation and tasty. We ordered one of my favorite dishes, salada com polvo  (octopus salad), and shrimps. Bill for 2 persons around 50 euro

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon & view 25 April bridge

Wintertime

These pictures are made in September on a beautiful sunny day, but in wintertime there’s also the possibility to enjoy the views of old town Lisbon inside the restaurant.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon, September 2017

In wintertime the large windows allow the view to be equally (almost as) good as outside. The restaurant features an indoor room with a burning stove and a terrace with heaters and  blankets.

Cous cous & cool white wine Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio,  Lisbon

 YouTube Cais do Ginjal Lisbon

Although on Facebook  there are some negative posts about this restaurant, my experience so far is very good !

View from restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, old town Lisbon

After passing some abandoned and ruinous very old warehouses (lots of lovely graffiti ), there’s restaurant Atira-te ao Rio. ca. 10 minutes walk from the ferry,

How to get there? 

Wonderful very old abandoned warehouses with a long history

Take a (cheap) ferry trip from the Cais do Sodré ferry terminal to Cacilhas,  (timetable vice verca) and after a 10 minutes walk along abadonded warehouses near the river Tagus there’s restaurant Atira-te ao Rio.

Cais do Sodré ferry terminal to Cacilhas,  (timetable vice verca)

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio
Cais do Ginjal, 69/70, Almada Centro, Lisbon
Facebook
OPEN: every day from 12:30 – 23:00
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Picture: Svetlana Borodina
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New: 2018 taxi boat service.
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Picture: restaurant Atira-te Ao Rio

Taxi boat service, from any deck in Lisbon.
CLOSED? Nearby restaurant Ponto Final.  More…..
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