LISBON Sacavém: from ‘no-go’ zone to Europe’s largest open-air art gallery

How art can make positive changes! A walking tour in district Sacavém led by excellent guide Kally lasted over 3 hours. We’ll have to go again to admire all the murals (around 120) 🙂 !

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artists : Zag & Sia

Quinta do Mocho & former bad reputation

Sacavém (located in former Quinta do Mocho) once was known as a neighborhood with a bad reputation. Today we visit what has become popular as the “largest open-air urban art gallery in Europe”.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & guide Kally.  Artist: Abraham Osorio 

2014: Street Art Festival with artists from all over the world

For a long time in Sacavém everything was abandoned. Taxis and buses no longer circulated in the area. To rehabilitate the neighborhood, the Câmara Municipal (town hall) organized a Street Art Festival in 2014. Since then, this Festival  is organised almost every year.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artist MAYE

Quinta do Mocho & former Portuguese colonies

The Quinta do Mocho social housing project, consisting of four-story buildings, was built in the 1990s to house 3.000 people, mostly from former Portuguese colonies in Africa, Cape Verde, Guinea and Angola. Social exclusion, high unemployment and poor housing standards contributed to the area having high crime rates and various social problems.

Sacavém, September 13. Picture (with permission): Margriet de Vrieze

Turning point in 2014

The creation of the urban Art Festival was a turning point in the history of Quinta do Mocho. According to local officials, since the murals were painted, a bus line now serves the area, cultural events have multiplied, and the crime rate has fallen. All the buildings, owned by the local government, are rented out to low-income families .  Source: WikiPedia

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artists Coletivo Licuado

Nowadays around 120 murals are coloring the buildings, in a creative line-up that covers the work of national and international famous artists – such as Bordalo II, Vhils (both Portuguese) Odeith, Slap, Adrés or Pantónio.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artist ÔJE

This video gives a good impression of the neighborhood with all the monotonous buildings :

YouTube: Quinta do Mocho – Galeria de Arte Publica

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & artist MAYE

First guided tour was organised in 2015.

Nowadays, every week, groups of tourists come to admire the mural paintings based on various themes such as racial discrimination, children’s rights, or justice.

The neighbourhood felt quiet and peaceful when we walked around.

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery & portrait of Amilcar Cabral, by Portuguese artist Antonio Alves

The “40 years, 40 murals” initiative, aimed at marking the 40th anniversary of the 25th of April (freedom!) in Portugal. To remember the great African nationalist Amilcar Cabral, founder of the African Party for the Independence of Guinea and Cape Verde, murdered in 1973.

Sacavém & artist Bordalo II. Picture: Margriet de Vrieze

All artworks of Bordalo II are created with GARBAGE .

The excessive production and consumption of stuff, which results in the continuous production of “garbage” and consequently in the destruction of the Planet, are the central themes of his production.

Street art Utopia & collection of street art by Bordalo II

Sacavém: Europe’s largest open-air art gallery, guide Kally & artist Untay

Visit Sacavém & excellent tourist guide Kally

When you visit Lisbon and you like street art, take the time to visit Sacavém. It’s really amazing! We (members of NV Lissabon, Dutch Society), spent half a day there. Our guide Kally lives in the neighborhood and he knows a lot of stories about the murals and their creators.

Sacavémguide Kally & members of NV Lissabon (Dutch Society)

The tour starts at the Casa da Cultura de Sacavém, where Kally briefly explains (in English) about the murals that can be seen here as maquettes.

YouTube: Casa de Cultura de Sacavém & maquettes of all murals

Casa da Cultura de Sacavém & Mexican artist Eva Bracamontes ( maquette)

How to book a guided tour via Guias do Mocho:

guiasdomocho@gmail.com
Whatsapp: +351 967815872
Or via a message on Facebook.  Price: €10 per person. You can enjoy an African lunch (€15 pp) afterwards in a small restaurant.

How to get there?  Quinta Do Mocho is located in Sacavém close to Lisbon’s airport. Bus 310 from Oriente is an option but taxis are quite cheap in Portugal.

Meeting pointCasa da Cultura de Sacavém,  Urbanização dos Terraços da Ponte, 2685-155, Sacavém

Coffee break: Cafe ‘O Cantinho da Anita’, Sacavém & Dutch visitors NV Lissabon, September 13, 2023

 

Passionate Portuguese artist Bruno Netto & ‘Mural of memory’ area Mouraria Lisbon

.
Almost 2 years ago I moved from an apartment in historic area Mouraria in Lisbon to a house in the surrounding district, Laranjeiro.
.
.
Artist Bruno Netto & huge mural Laranjeiro metro stop, July 2021
.
Mural in Laranjeiro: ‘Landmark of Almada’
.
Close to my new house there’s the metro stop. The wonderful mural there impressed me! 🙂 . Designed by artist Bruno Netto, commissioned by the municipality of Laranjeiro & Feijo (more pictures)
.
.
Artist Bruno Netto at work & ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden
.
Bruno Netto was born in Lisbon, but he also speaks Dutch, he lived and worked many years in Holland.
.
.
.
Part of ‘Mural of memory’ about historic area Mouraria  Lisbon
.
Mouraria, historic area in Lisbon city center

For over 20 years I owned an apartment in the historic center of Lisbon, Mouraria.  This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased a lot the last few years.

.
.
Artist Bruno Netto at work & ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden
.
Almost a year ago I adopted Nelson, he is such a sweet and funny little dog!  YouTube: Bruno Netto singing while painting & dog Nelson  😉 😉
.
There’re so many memories of the years I spent in this very old neighborhood in the heart of Lisbon! That’s why I decided to ask artist Bruno Netto about his ideas for a mural about Mouraria in my garden.
.
.
Artist Bruno Netto at work & ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden
.
Bruno created a conceptual design, started drawing and then, bit by bit, he painted the wall.  Wonderful!
.
Tram 28, first fado singer Maria Severa and some other typical features of Mouraria in Lisbon on the wall in my house in Laranjeiro!
.

.
Part of ‘Mural of memory’ & Nelson, Mouraria Lisbon
.
.
Who is Bruno Netto?
.
.
Artist Bruno Netto: ‘Mural of memory ‘& Maria Severa (first Fado singer)
.
Bruno: ‘As a young child, I’ve always liked to draw and paint, and I knew I was destined to become a painter. Murals came later in my life, when I was in Mexico and was fascinated about the work of Diego Rivera, (married to Frida Kahlo), the world’s greatest muralist! More : Bruno Netto’s website
.
Interested to talk about a mural in your own garden ?Talk with Bruno 🙂
.
Facebook          Instagram: @brunonetto.oficial
 Interview Bruno Portuguese TV,  SIC ‘Domingao’.
.
.
Artist Bruno Netto & ‘Mural of memory’ : swallows (andorinhas)
.
Swallows: symbol of love, loyalty, and hope
.
Swallows are hanging at many Portuguese houses. The swallow is a bird that has a special place in Portuguese culture. For centuries, it has been a symbol of love, loyalty, and hope.
.
.
Part of the ‘Mural of memory’, about area Mouraria Lisbon
.
.
.
Part of ‘Mural of memory’ in my garden, at night 🙂 🙂 Youtube
.
WHERE TO GO TO DISCOVER MOURARIA in LISBON?
Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses are painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles.
.
.
.
Recommended: restaurant café ‘O Corvo’ to enjoy your lunch and then walk through the narrow streets in the area :-). ENJOY! How to get there
.
.
.
Work is done ! It looks amazing!

Breathtaking views Lisbon: Art Center ‘Casa da Cerca’, unique location & ferry trip

​Contemporary Art Center ‘Casa da Cerca‘ is located at the south side of the river Tagus.  Views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing!

Superb Lisbon city views! 🙂 Garden Art Center ‘Casa da Cerca‘, Lisbon, February 2019 & tourist guide Josephine Lucassen. YouTube

How to get there?

Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to  Cacilhas,  a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : cheap).  YouTube Ferry ride

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacilhas and vice versa

Cais do Ginjal , Cacilhas Lisbon, February 2019

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river (Cais do Ginjal)  to reach the elevator, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses (could be a place for a movie set…!), and a few restaurants, both worth a visit 🙂  : Atire-te ao Rio and Ponto Final.

Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier. July 2019

The elevator (elevador ‘da Boca da Venta‘, mouth of the wind) is convenient and free.

Magnificent view of the 25 April bridge, Cristo Rei (Christ the King statue), the city of Lisbon and the river Tagus .

View 25 April bridge. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier, July 2019

Former palace Casa da Cerca : art gallery, botanical garden & small cafetaria.

There are several exhibition spaces, a patio gallery, a cistern, a wonderful sculpture park, a chapel and a Botanical Garden – which, separately or jointly, present a regular program of individual, collective or thematic exhibitions.

Former palace Casa da Cerca & contemporary Art Center Lisbon, February 2019: tourist guide Portugal Josephine Lucassen

The former Cerca Palace is considered to be the most characteristic example of civil architecture from the 18th century, constructed between the 17th and the 18th century, with Baroque and Romantic influences, being restored in the end of the 20th century.

Art center Casa da Cerca Lisbon & tourist guide Portugal Josephine Lucassen, February 2019

February 2019: exhibition ‘O futuro do Passado’ (‘the future of the past’): Portuguese artists  Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso, Ana Jotta, Jorge Queiroz & poet Matilde Campilho

Eduardo Mota digitalizou “Le Saut du Lapin” de Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso.

Wonderful! Source: Wikipedia

The property was acquired by the City Council in 1988. Refurbished and adapted to the expository purposes for which it was intended, opened to the public in 1993 as a Center for Contemporary art. The first exhibition focused on a core of Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso’s work.

Website  YouTube Casa da Cerca

.
Art center Casa da Cerca & garden. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier, July 2019
.

Casa da Cerca, Rua da Cerca, 2800-050 Almada, Lisbon

Exhibitions, cafetaria & lovely botanical garden ‘O Chão das Artes’  (‘floor of the arts’): Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm

Center for Documentation and Research Mestre Rogério Ribeiro:
Tuesday to Friday from 10h to 12h30 and from 14h to 17h

Art Center Casa da Cerca Lisbon & ladies room 😉 😉 , February 2019

Facebook & news about upcoming expositions

Breathtaking views Lisbon: Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & short ferry trip river Tagus

The south bank of the river Tagus is my favorite place in Lisbon: views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridge are amazing!

Riverfront terrace restaurant Ponto Final’, Cacilhas, amazing view downtown Lisbon. September 2017

Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré (every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus: Cacilhas,  a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : cheap)

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacihas and vice versa

As you get off the ferry,  it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Svetlana Borodina

Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.

Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon

Picture: Edith Bering, February 16, 2022

Reasonable prices

You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.

Restaurant Ponto Final Lisbon, September 2019

Great location

€25/30 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague

We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.

Bill for 3 persons  € 58.50.

Lisbon Ponto Final Restaurant Sophie en Jurre 2015 2

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier

Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.

Great lunch in Restaurant Ponto Final, Lisbon together with Edith Bering and Anita van Zadelhoff, February 16, 2022

Romantic location

Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.

Restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’, splendid view old town Lisbon

In caserestaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is closed, the neighbor restaurant ‘Atira-te ao Rio’Portuguese and international cuisine, is also a great place to enjoy your lunch or dinner!  🙂

Cacilhas Lisbon view Restaurant Atira-te-ao-rio’ and Cristo Rei statue

Cacilhas and the famous Cristo Rei statue

The elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue (free) is situated quite close to restaurant Ponto Final .

Svetlana & Sergy from Prague

Stunning views! Close to the elevator.

Several possibilites how to travel to the Cristo Rei Monument

Ferry-Lisbon Cacilhas

Ferry from Cais do Sodre , Lisbon to Cacilhas, the other side of the river Tagus

Time table ferry from Lisbon Cais do Sodre to area Cacilhas and vice versa

During winter season in Lisbon this place is also worth a visit 🙂 !  But it can be rather cold and very windy!

Wintertime Sunset video.

Cristo Rei Statue, Cacilhas, Lisbon

The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.

Restaurant Ponto Final February 16, 2022 : Anita van Zadelhoff, lovely dog Nelson 😉 and Edith Bering

You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.

Lunch July 3, 2021, friend Margriet de Vrieze & delicious pataniscos de bacalhau (salt codfish cakes, recipe in English) 🙂

Restaurant Ponto Final, Cacilhas Cais Ginjal 72, Cacilhas / Almada,

Phone: (00351)  936 869 031 (WhatsApp also). Mail:  pontofinalrest@gmail.com.       Facebook

Help Association ‘Bianca’ Portugal: adopt or foster a dog from 3 euro monthly

From 3 Euro a month donation you can help Association Bianca in Portugal!  Or foster a dog or a cat on distance!

BIANCA’ s mission is to save abandoned animals and animals in risk situations. YouTube: Rescue of 4 puppies in the toxic landfill Sesimbra

The shelter of Bianca  is located in Sesimbra – 30 km south of LISBON.

YouTube: dog Pamuk 2 days of life   

YouTube: lovely little puppies  

You can find much more on ‘BIANCA ‘s webpage & blog

Foster a dog on distance

If you cannot adopt, you can also help increase the animals’ life quality in the shelter:  foster a dog on distance – choose your dog, choose a monthly amount you want to donate and help 🙂 🙂

Lovely calendars

There are 2 types of calendars, wall and table, both with photographs of dogs and cats, in 170gr chouché matte paper and silver rings. 

Each calendar cost 7,50 Euros (+ shipping). Bianca can accept orders via email: fazendoanimaisfelizes@gmail.com

Calendar 2022

´‘BIANCA’ save the animals, give them a temporary shelter, treat the sick ones, vaccinate them and finally find new, responsible owners.

The shelter YouTube 

Association BIANCA’ was officially created on 17th July 2002. First, it had neither kennel nor any other physical structure. Its work was based on private houses and hotels for animals. In 2006 the kennel was opened – with a capacity for 50 animals. Today more than 400!  🙁

‘BIANCA’ does not want to be a deposit place for animals. They deserve much more than that!


‘BIANCA’ receives around 50 new animals every month. It is always a struggle to keep a reasonable number of them in the shelter and to be able to rehome as many as possible every month.

Many animals that  ‘BIANCA’ receive are in a very bad state: after an accident, with broken bones and wounds, puppies and kittens found dehydrated in garbage bins, animals physically abused.

Bianca Association Sesimbra Portugal sick animals vet

Veterinary bills

‘BIANCA’ has always many female and male dogs to sterilise. Females are always urgent.

The volunteers of ‘BIANCA’ count with the help of the vets who give them discounted prices but nevertheless the  monthly veterinary bills are significant. Every animal that is given for adoption from the kennel is vaccinated, dewormed and has a chip. All adult female dogs and cats are sterilised and many male dogs and cats castrated.

Help the animals  to increase their life quality!

Adoption

Female puppies and kittens are given for adoption on the basis of an adoption contract in which the new owner obliges himself to have them sterelised when they reach the right age.

Flight assistant

If you fly – on vacation or for work – from Lisbon to Belgium, Holland, Germany or Denmark, you can help the pets. You can take an animal with you to its new home.

Airport Lisbon dogs March 2014 Gerrie Bianca Association Sesimbra

Gerrie (Bianca T-shirt) and John Sexton at the airport of Lisbon

You don’t need to do (or pay) anything except transporting the animal.

4 little dogs going to Amsterdam

Dogs airport Lisbon Bianca Association to Amstedam 3

Little dogs flying from Lisbon to Amsterdam

They will have a new good life in Holland!

2 dogs arriving from Lisbon Portugal & new owners waiting at Schiphol airport Amsterdam

You don’t need to do (or pay) anything except transporting the animal.

You can find much more on BIANCA ‘s webpage , see all animals & YouTube movies. MORE..

Bianca Association abandoned animals Portugal terreno

‘BIANCA’ Association for the protection of homeless animals

Address: ‘ BIANCA’ Rua das Esmeraldas S/N, 2970-218, Sesimbra, Portugal

Bianca can accept orders for a calendar (7,50 euro excl. shipping) via email: fazendoanimaisfelizes@gmail.com

Website BIANCA

Restaurant ‘RAMIRO’ Lisbon: superb seafood, great steak & history

CervejariaRamiro is not just a restaurant in Lisbon. If you look for superb fresh seafood at a good price, this “Cervejaria” (litt. beerhouse) is the place to be! It’s always crowded and rather noisy, with tables full of locals, all having a great time. The atmosphere is loud and exciting.  YouTube

Ramiro restaurant 1

A Friday afternoon, around 16:00. Restaurant Ramiro is open from 12:00 till midnight, so if you like to come in at 17:00 you’re welcome!

Portuguese love there seafood with beer (or with ice cold vinho verde , young wine). You can order big shrimps (gambas or camarão tigre), scampi (lagostim) and crab (caranguejo).

Cooked fresh seafood tastes fantastic with mayonaise, grilled seafood goes very well with ‘molho de limão’. This is a sauce of butter, lemon and a bit of piri-piri.

Ramiro restaurant Lisbon Pedro Goncalves manager

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

Pedro Miguel P. Gonçalves, manager restaurant ‘Ramiro’ : “You may start by tasting the delicious dark smoked ham “Pata Negra 5, J Sanchez Romero Carvajal”.

Ramiro Gamba Cozida

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

One of my favorite dishes: Camarão à Guilho (garlic shrimp).

If you’re only in the mood for a snack, try a prego’ , a steak sandwich. The steak is grilled on the plate. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one) with mustard or piri-piri.

O Ramiro restaurant Lisbon superb seafood

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

History : The Ramiro Beer house was founded on in 1956, by the hand of Ramiro’s father, being a small “pasture house”. With the passing of the years Mr. Ramiro slowly introduced seafood. This concept aroused a great interest creating a beer house (Cervejaria).

Ramiro Restaurant lisbon 6 seafood

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

Romantic ‘table for 2’.

I can sincerely recommend this place! 🙂 If you are more in the mood for a restaurant with red candles and soft music, you might be disappointed, but upstairs you can make a reservation for a romantic ‘table for 2’.

If you don’t like seafood, here you can also enjoy a real good steak .

Ramiro restaurant Lisbon Av Almirante Reis

RESTAURANT ‘RAMIRO

Restaurant Ramiro is open from 12:00 till midnight.

Avenida Almirante Reis 1 G-H, Intendente, Lisbon. OPEN on Sundays.

December 2019: The Ramiro restaurant in Lisbon is very popular

There’s often a long line of people waiting in the street..

TAKE AWAY. Call at +351218851024 and order a seafood meal. Closed on Mondays.

Ramiro Restaurant Lisbon street view

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon near  beautiful square Intendente

Facebook

Cascais: famous vacation spot, easily reached from Lisbon & favorite restaurants

Cascais is a famous & chic vacation spot in Portugal by the Atlantic Ocean, quite close to Lisbon (about 25 km; 30 minutes by train, 15-20 minutes by car).

Center of Cascais in summertime

Cascais is a pleasant mix of history, tourism and local life. Once a small fishing village, nowadays packed with elegant boutiques, luxury hotels and restaurants. But still many small colourful fishing boats are bobbing up and down in the water in front of the village’s sea front. Fresh fish every day! 🙂

Fishing boats in the bay of Cascais, Portugal: Praia dos Pescadores

Cascais is situated on the north side of the mouth of the River Tejo which flows through the Portuguese capital, Lisbon. Cascais’ popularity dates from 1870, when King Luís I decided to convert the 17th century Citadela here into his summer residence.

Cascais, very popular place for tourists: Rua Direita , 2016 ( nowadays this street is called Rua Frederico Arouca)

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists!  What a lovely design, you feel like you’re walking  on waves like Jesus did 😉  😉 

Terrace restaurant, cafe & bar ‘O Poéta’ Cascais

Restaurants Cascais center & aggressive waiters

On this square aggressive waiters try to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Football lovers : huge screens are strategically placed outside and inside the restaurants.

Vegetarian restaurant House of Wonders in Cascais: great, quiet location 🙂

Easy to reach from the trainstation, 5 minutes walk: Largo da Misericordia 53, Cascais
.

Vega Restaurant House of Wonders Cascais:  Sofia, Pasang, Sandeep & Bipek, November 2019

My favorite vegan restaurant and roofterrace in Cascais is House of Wonders, delicious vegetarian food

Lovely new terrace Vega Restaurant & cafe House of Wonders Cascais

July 2019

Facebook House of Wonders Cascais

December 2019

Restaurant Maritimo, Cascais & Ben Weijers, owner of holiday paradise Quinta do Corvo in Colares (near Sintra)

In case you prefer fresh fish or meat, go to nearby restaurant Maritimo

Set under 2 centuries-old trees there’s tiny restaurant Maritimo ‘s terrace where you can enjoy fresh fish and salads. Instagram

Restaurant Maritimo Cascais & delicious prawns with garlic: 15 euro.

Instagram

The big square next to the restaurant is an ideal place to let the kids play. Portuguese family restaurant Maritimo (closed on Sunday).

Largo Cidade de Vitória 37, Cascais

Cascais in September

There’s free bike-rental for tourists, and the nearby (5 km, easily accessible by bus or by train) popular Guincho beach is one of the best windsurfing and kitesurfing beaches in Europe.

YouTube movie Graham goes Guincho

Cascais: Museum Conde Castro Guimarães

This Municipal Museum is near by the sea and it keeps a very original architecture because its aim is to promote art. The palace is from 19th century and it was property of Manuel Castro Guimarães (a Portuguese Count from Cascais). MORE

How to get there from Lisbon?

Lisbon, train to Cascais

Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon by train: ‘Linha de Cascais’ (name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) from Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, ferry and trainstation.

Return ticket: cheap.

Cascais & wonderful pavement, November 2019

Great beaches, and a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available.

More: Visit Cascais 

Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ Lisbon, historic square Intendente & lovely loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, August 2020. Square Largo do Intendente 59

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon 2015: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine, 2015

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Square Intendente 2018

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

Exclusive sailing cruises Lisbon: 3 mast schooner “Leão Holandês” & Dirk Gesink

January 2021: R.I.P. Dirk Gesink 😢 😢

IN MEMORY Around 1986, the Dutchman Dirk Willem Gesink, decided to spend his honeymoon in Portugal. At that time he was a successful businessman in Holland and since his childhood a passionate sailor. He had started sailing when he was four years old at the “Loosdrechtse Plassen” in Holland.

Alcantara-boot-Dirk

Lisbon,  Doca de Alcântara

Obviously Dirk Gesink looked for a company that organized sailing trips on the river Tagus during his vacation in Portugal. He searched but didn’t find one single sailing boat dedicated to this activity. This was a determinant observation. At this moment he decided that within one year he would have his own sailing boat in Portugal dedicated to nautical tourism. And this was exactly what happened.

In 1987 he had already bought the then called “Sepha Vollaars” and was already active in the region of the Algarve. After having sold his house in Holland, the family Gesink made their home out of the centenary schooner, and accompanied the whole process. Even his two daughters were born on board.

Dirk Gesink boat

Leão Holandês

In 1991, Dirk Gesink concluded his final project of making cruises on the river Tagus. From this time on, the Leão Holandês is a reference in the Lisbon tourism branch, besides being the most ancient and experienced company dedicated to this service.

This video gives a perfect impression of a boat trip on the Leão Holandês, sailing on the river Tejo/Tagus, Lisbon

Dirk Gesink, The Dutch Lion Lisbon cruises Tagus river

Dirk Gesink

Many companies have had their names associated to the Leão Holandês. Some of these successes were the Rothmans “Tour the Country”, the sailing week with Unilever, the firework nights during Expo ´98, the publicity for Cutty Sark during the Euro 2004. And many, many others…!

 😢 😢

Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas  Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-) 😉

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)