Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ Mouraria Lisbon: great food & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden in Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

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Square Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow)

Wonderful very old fountain.  Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

2016: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow), December 2018

Knitted graffiti

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti 🙂

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia among others, and homemade cakes.

August 2018: Dorade (larded with peppers)  € 12, 50. Delicious!

Entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; um copo de vinho tinto/vinho branco (a glass of red or white wine) € 2,60;  small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

Home made chocolate cake  € 3:60

When entering restaurant O Corvo it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another, greater room. The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2018:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ Lisbon & Margriet de Vrieze

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂

Bar Bistro ‘Josephine’ Lisbon, historic square Intendente & lovely loveseat

If you love historic districts, visit this wonderful  Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria. Formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays very popular.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, August 2020. Square Largo do Intendente 59

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon 2015: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine, 2015

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon

In wintertime it can be nice weather in Lisbon 🙂

Lisbon square Indentente area Mouraria ‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe

‘O das Joanas‘ Cafe  sells breakfast, brunch and a great variety of soups, salads, quiches and cakes. More: Time Out

The Casa Independente is an artistic project idealized by Inês Valdez and Patrícia Craveiro Lopes.

Activities like concerts, exhibitions, ateliers, artistic residences, recitals and soirees. Casa Independente, Largo Intendente 45. Website,   Facebook. 

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Square Intendente 2018

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Largo Intendente 

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East.

Facebook area Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

Exclusive sailing cruises Lisbon: 3 mast schooner “Leão Holandês” & Dirk Gesink

January 2021: R.I.P. Dirk Gesink 😢 😢

Around 1986, the Dutchman Dirk Willem Gesink, decided to spend his honeymoon in Portugal. At that time he was a successful businessman in Holland and since his childhood a passionate sailor. He had started sailing when he was four years old at the “Loosdrechtse Plassen” in Holland.

Alcantara-boot-Dirk

Lisbon,  Doca de Alcântara

Obviously Dirk Gesink looked for a company that organized sailing trips on the river Tagus during his vacation in Portugal. He searched but didn’t find one single sailing boat dedicated to this activity. This was a determinant observation. At this moment he decided that within one year he would have his own sailing boat in Portugal dedicated to nautical tourism. And this was exactly what happened.

In 1987 he had already bought the then called “Sepha Vollaars” and was already active in the region of the Algarve. After having sold his house in Holland, the family Gesink made their home out of the centenary schooner, and accompanied the whole process. Even his two daughters were born on board.

Dirk Gesink boat

Leão Holandês

In 1991, Dirk Gesink concluded his final project of making cruises on the river Tagus. From this time on, the Leão Holandês is a reference in the Lisbon tourism branch, besides being the most ancient and experienced company dedicated to this service.

This video gives a perfect impression of a boat trip on the Leão Holandês, sailing on the river Tejo/Tagus, Lisbon

Dirk Gesink, The Dutch Lion Lisbon cruises Tagus river

Dirk Gesink

Many companies have had their names associated to the Leão Holandês. Some of these successes were the Rothmans “Tour the Country”, the sailing week with Unilever, the firework nights during Expo ´98, the publicity for Cutty Sark during the Euro 2004. And many, many others…!

 😢 😢

Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas  Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-) 😉

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon: restaurants, bars, art, sexy & fado

Charming Mouraria area is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Area Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon, it is still less touristic and therefore much purer. One of Lisbon’s history-rich areas !

March 17 2020, area Mouraria Lisbon: Pastelaria ‘Doce Mila’

Corona & Lisbon

There’re almost no people in the streets or in the cafes and restaurants, a face mask is left here on the floor..

😢 🙁

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.

 Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂 .

Facebook 

YouTube:  Lisbon’s neighborhood of Mouraria

Alentejo style pork and clams ( 7,90) (Carne de Porco à Alentejana)

Pork and clams together? Yes! 🙂 Recipe by Richelle Ramos

Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays historical area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colourful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Terrace Fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria Lisbon in June. Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

Festas dos Santos Populares  (Feast Days of the Popular Saints & Lisbon’s craziest night).

In June, the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical centers.

Hidden gem: Restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes, air-conditioned in summertime.

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Restaurant Zé da Mouraria 🙂 June 2019
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Waiter Davide & codfish (bacalhau), a very poular dish in Portugal
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Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards.
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Thomas Kahrel (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias 17,  Lisbon, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahrel

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. More pictures:  Facebook. Thomas studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars.
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New (June 2019) is restaurant Taberna do Calhau in Lisbon, dedicated to  region Alentejo, inaugurated by chef Leopoldo Garcia Calhau (43), who brought to area Mouraria the typical dishes of this Portuguese region.
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Chef Leopoldo do Calhau : recipe for gray days. Picture: Instagram
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau lunch (almoço) has a fixed price of 35 € per person, delicious wine included. Make a reservation, as the restaurant has space for 26 people. Great atmosphere 🙂
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Creative cuisine
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The food is veeeeeeery good, tasteful and creative, however prices are a little high. You will find traditional Portuguese dishes from region Alentejo,  such as moelas e miol (grizzards and brains of a lamb) (!)
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Restaurant Taberna do Calhau & Artur Domingos, November 2019
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For wine, we left it up to owner Leopoldo to choose. A brilliant choice: Areias Gordas (25 ).  🙂
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Taberna do Calhau, Largo das Olarias 23, Lisbon. Open on Sunday. Phone: (00351) 21 585 1937. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian?)  😉   😉 sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar & nightclub Flamingo 

Facebook

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Grilled sardines 🙂

Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (a bit hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros 

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: Pedro & Dina

Cozy terrace in a courtyard . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).

Very friendly owners​!  🙂

Patio restaurant Beco do Forno: dish of the day (6.50 euro)

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Bill for 3 persons 27 euro

Grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno (& bakery Doce Mila) area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant Beco do Forno is open every day from 10:00 – 16:00 and from 19:00 till 21:30. Closed on Sunday

Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila) & pastel de nata

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy:  egg tart pastry: pastel de nata.
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Typical Portuguese: strong coffee (bica) and pastel de nata
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Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner).
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Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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Area Mouraria is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Largo da Maria da Severa. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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Fado in Restaurant/bar Maria da Mouraria, Lisbon
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Restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.
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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

Terrace restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (wild flower)

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Restaurant Bruta Flor

Largo da Severa, 7A/B, Mouraria, Lisbon

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place.

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Tiny Ginja BarAmigas da Severa & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times.

Mariza  YouTube

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’, Lisbon. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Cafe/restaurant ‘A Parreirinha’ is a typical Portuguese restaurant, located Rua da Guia 4 A/B , Mouraria Lisbon.

€ 20 for 2 persons. WiFi, cash only. Open from 07:30 – 23:30, closed on Sunday. 

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Fado house Maria da Severa & festivities in June
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Great names of fado music were born in this area, like ‘femme fatale’ Maria da Severa (fado house named after her) and Fernando Maurício .
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The Food Temple: vegetarian / vegan restaurant  Mouraria
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Vega restaurant The Food Temple is located in a beautiful courtyard with seatings on the steps right outside. Picturesque and charming environment in the heart of Mouraria, laid-back atmosphere.
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Where: Beco do Jasmim 18, Mouraria       Facebook
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Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

Ó! Galleria is a project focused in illustration, drawing, books, zines and author pieces. Ema Ribeiro is the proud gallerist and she works with some collaborators, mostly young and promising illustrators.

Area Mouraria & Indian/Bangladesh food

The majority of the Bangladesh community lives near the streets around Square Intendente. Lots of restaurants to choose from, one of my favorites is Food Garden. Great vegetarion dishes (in case you don’t eat halal food), also take away.

Vegetable curry dishes € 5,50 –  € 7,50. Rice € 1.50. Bottle of water € 1.00

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Grill & Indian restaurant Food Garden, area Mouraria Lisbon
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Square Intendente & historic building
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Lisbon LX FACTORY: creative cultural area, restaurants & Sunday hippie chic market

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon: restaurants in summertime & Sunday market

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history.

YouTube      More information

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

November 11, 2019. Margriet de Vrieze, restaurant/cafe O LOTE

Every Sunday an open air LX market is held (from 11.00 – 19:00), selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube Sunday LX market  Facebook

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon & restaurant  A Praça

Several good restaurants & affordable prices

Lively, exciting cultural area full of art studios, fashion , bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open. LX factory is a cool hangout zone 🙂

More about shops

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. ‘read  slowly’, YouTube) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook
 

 

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon: Carmo church ruins & lounging

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado in Lisbon can be found at a surprising location: behind the ruins of convent Convento do Carmo

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Graça district

Two historical monuments of Lisbon

The terraces around the Carmo church are a bit hidden in the center of Lisbon, between two historical monuments : convent Convento do Carmo and  Santa Justa Elevator, both very popular tourist attractions.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & Carmo church

10 minutes walk from here there’s TOPO rooftop restaurant & open air bar, located on the 6th floor of square Martim Moniz Shopping Center, with spectacular views of the  castle of Saint George ( São Jorge) and a part of the city.

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon

TOPO Chiado esplanade with bar,  and a restaurant on a higher level where dishes are served, like snacks, salades and burgers.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Santa Justa Lift

Carmo Convent Lisbon & horror of earthquake in 1755

Carmo Convent is an old gothic cathedral that was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and fire that destroyed much of Lisbon. The ruins represent a memory of that tragedy.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture: Georges Jansoone, Wikipedia

Archaeological museum 

An archaeological museum is housed in the old altar and has an eclectic collection of treasures that include eerie South American mummies.

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Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture:  Wikipedia

From 1 – 30 June 2018: The ruins of the Convento do Carmo will be the screen for a video mapping that will explore more than 600 years of Lisbon’s and Portugal’s history (also in English). MORE…

Article LisbonLux: more info and pictures…

Tickets & visitor information

Square Largo do Carmo Lisbon. More……

Across from the convent entrance is a monumental drinking fountain (late 1700s).

Bar restaurant TOPO Chiado
OPEN: every day from 12:00 – 24:00
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TOPO Chiado Lisbon & friend Margarethe de Vrieze Sept. 2017
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Restaurant ‘RAMIRO’ Lisbon: superb fresh seafood, real good steak & locals

CervejariaRamiro is not just a restaurant in Lisbon. If you look for superb fresh seafood at a good price, this “Cervejaria” (litt. beerhouse) is the place to be! It’s always crowded and rather noisy, with tables full of locals, all having a great time. The atmosphere is loud and exciting.  YouTube

Ramiro restaurant 1

A Friday afternoon, around 16:00. Restaurant Ramiro is open from 12:00 till midnight, so if you like to come in at 17:00 you’re welcome!

Portuguese love there seafood with beer (or with ice cold vinho verde , young wine). You can order big shrimps (gambas or camarão tigre), scampi (lagostim) and crab (caranguejo).

Cooked fresh seafood tastes fantastic with mayonaise, grilled seafood goes very well with ‘molho de limão’. This is a sauce of butter, lemon and a bit of piri-piri.

Ramiro restaurant Lisbon Pedro Goncalves manager

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

Pedro Miguel P. Gonçalves, manager restaurant ‘Ramiro’ : “You may start by tasting the delicious dark smoked ham “Pata Negra 5, J Sanchez Romero Carvajal”.

Ramiro Gamba Cozida

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

One of my favorite dishes: Camarão à Guilho (garlic shrimp).

If you’re only in the mood for a snack, try a prego’ , a steak sandwich. The steak is grilled on the plate. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one) with mustard or piri-piri.

O Ramiro restaurant Lisbon superb seafood

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

History : The Ramiro Beer house was founded on in 1956, by the hand of Ramiro’s father, being a small “pasture house”. With the passing of the years Mr. Ramiro slowly introduced seafood. This concept aroused a great interest creating a beer house (Cervejaria).

Ramiro Restaurant lisbon 6 seafood

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon

Romantic ‘table for 2’.

I can sincerely recommend this place! 🙂 If you are more in the mood for a restaurant with red candles and soft music, you might be disappointed, but upstairs you can make a reservation for a romantic ‘table for 2’.

If you don’t like seafood, here you can also enjoy a real good steak .

Ramiro restaurant Lisbon Av Almirante Reis

RESTAURANT ‘RAMIRO

Restaurant Ramiro is open from 12:00 till midnight.

Avenida Almirante Reis 1 G-H, Intendente, Lisbon. OPEN on Sundays.

December 2019: The Ramiro restaurant in Lisbon is very popular

There’s often a long line of people waiting in the street..

TAKE AWAY. Call at +351218851024 and order a seafood meal. Closed on Mondays.

Ramiro Restaurant Lisbon street view

Restaurant Ramiro Lisbon near  beautiful square Intendente

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National palace Queluz Lisbon: sexual orgies, juicy stories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil.

Information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire & smallpox

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria‘s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia

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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Worth a visit!

Short term rentals: my 3 bedroom apartment in Lisbon with lovely patio (100 m2):  5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: 

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

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Tram 28 Lisbon Martim Moniz: long lines, best stops & pickpockets

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00-18:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol

Famous viewpoint & tourist attraction,  on the background Museum of Decorative Arts, really worth a visit!

Starting point tram 28, 2018

Square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Pickpockets, take care!

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care! Leave your bag in the hotel/apartment, just take some money with you in your pocket !

Open air elevator square Martim Moniz near starting point tram 28

Open air elevator connecting Martim Moniz square to the streets around St George Castle

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased since a few years, which means tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
Starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28, square Praça Martim Moniz 

All stops vintage tram 28

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Tram 28 , Lisbon