Fado, knives & blood & artist Carlos Fernandez Mouraria Lisbon

Artist Carlos Fernandez was born and raised in Mouraria, a historic (old Moorish) down town area in Lisbon. Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 1

Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez

Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.

fado-maria-severa-cafe Mouraria painting

Legendary Fado singer Maria Severa

Maria Severa, the first Fadista , who died at age 26 in1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis, was born in this area. A very sad story! Famous performer of Fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ , was born near Mouraria , Rua Martim Faz. No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 2

Carlos Fernandez

Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.

Mouraria in June Santo Antonio guirlandes

Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts (castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra (litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 3 tram 28 electrico

‘Old tram 28’ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez

The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 4

Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition Santo Antonio recycled plastic

Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material

The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!

Mouraria Lisbon old yellow tram santo antonio sardines

Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines.

Looking for a short time rental apartment in Lisbon? Please check the calendar of my Authentic apartment for rent in this 900 years old area of Lisbon

Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition viewpoint Santa Luzia

Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building

An exposition was held in this beautiful small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).

If you are interested to see more of Carlos’ work (and prices), you can send him an email: fadonavalhasesangue@gmail.com

Carlos Fernandez artist exposition Santa Luzia Lisbon

Tourists are interested to see the exposition, Santa Luzia

Besides: Santa Luzia is a very popular and historical viewpoint (miradouro) in Lisbon, next to viewpoint Portas do Sol. Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus!

World Cup football 2010 Lisbon: Portugal vs Brazil, Big Screens & fans in Lisbon’s city center

Football is very important in Portugal. A lot of the Portuguese even watch a match on TV while eating their dinner in a restaurant…. At the moment football lovers and tourists from all over the world  follow the matches in Lisbon’s city center. According to the Portuguese and Ronaldo Portugal should be considered among the favorites to take the title in South Africa……

Football Portugal vs Brasilia screen Rossio

A big screen at Praça da Figueira Square, near Rossio, a very popular tourist attraction, June 25, 2010.
On the background one of the main historical and tourist sites in Lisbon, the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge)

Football Portugal vs Brasilia big screen2

Praça da Figueira

Remarkable: from the 16th to the 19th centuries, Brazil was a colony of Portugal

Football Portugal vs Brasilia Rua Augusta1

Rúa Augusta, Lisbon’s famous boulevard and one of the best-known shopping streets

Football Portugal vs Brasilia beautiful girls

Beautiful Portuguese girls

Football Portugal vs Brasilia Rua Augusta3

Catarina Tomais da Silva and Rui, waiters in Pastelaria Casa Brasilia.Very popular and delicious food! Rua Augusta 267

Football Portugal vs Brasilia cafe near hotel Mundial1

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B

Near Praça da Figueira . In the month of June all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights (Festas Populares)

Football Portugal vs Brasilia cafe near hotel Mundial 2

Inside the restaurant……

Football Portugal vs Brasilia street near Munidal

…and of course the elephant 😉 sound of the vuvuzelas!

Football world cup Lisbon after the match

After the match…..Portugal vs Brazil: 0-0: both countries happy 😉

Lisbon World Cup 2010 Holland vs Brazil Rossio1

Holland vs Brazil, near the famous Rossio Station.

A big screen at Largo Duque de Cadaval, a beautiful place, full of open sunny open-air cafes and restaurants.

Lisbon World Cup 2010 Holland vs Brazil Rossio2

Holland vs Brazil: 3-1. Dutch and Brazilian football fans are watching the match

Lisbon World Cup 2010 Holland vs Brazil Rossio4

Lisbon’s famous funiculars: Bica, Gloria, Lavra, spectacular viewpoints & ‘Art in movement’

The funiculars Bica, Gloria and Lavra in Lisbon taking you up to spectacular viewpoints (miradouros).

Bica funicular silver tourist information

The (normally yellow) and famous tourist attraction funicular in Bica  (YouTube)

Artist Alexandre Farto  covered the outside of the funicular with mirror-acrylic, called it ‘Espectro’  (Spectre) and pays tribute to the neighbourhood that is reflected in the lift during the journey, as if it were a film…. (From January – June 2010). Amazing!

Bica funicular silver March 2010 3 street

Bica funicular Lisbon

This project  ‘Art in movement’  (“Arte em Movimento”) is part of a Cultural Program for the promotion of Public Art, which CARRIS  (bus & tram services including timetables) intends to carry out in some vehicles of its public service fleet. In 2010, the chosen vehicles were one lift (the Santa Justa) and the 3 funiculars, all of them are national monuments since 2002.

Bica funicular March 2010 hanging laundry

Street view Bica funicular

Typical Portuguese:  hanging laundry, drying in the wind.

Bica funicular silver March 2010 2 street

View from Bica funicular

It climbs the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo for 245 metres from the Rua Sao Paulo.

Bica funicular March 2010 restaurant cafe

Largo de Santo Antoninho, right next to Bica’s funicular downhill starting point.

Fábulas Lisbon: restaurant, café, unique gallery & Joanna Latka’s wonderful art

Fábulas , located in Chiado Lisbon, is a combination of a restaurant, café, wine bar and a unique gallery. There is an exhibition every other month. The month when there is no exhibition, there are various activities such as concerts or cinema cycles.

Fabulas Joanna Latka Lisbon 5

Fábulas Lisbon

March 2010. Fábulas is showing the latest wonderful works by a Polish artist, Joanna Latka (r), currently living in Portugal, actively integrated in the Lisbon art scene with a Masters in Fine Art.

Fabulas Lisbon Joanna Latka 1

Fábulas Lisbon

The stone arches give this space a unique characteristic. Antique furniture where some tables are old sewing machines.

Fabulas Joanna Latka Lisbon dinner 2

Fábulas Lisbon

Our choice: Cuzcus Prince (€ 7), soup (€ 2,60), glass of wine (€ 2,40). The atmosphere is very relaxed, it’s also a great place for lunch or just lounging.

Fabulas restaurant cafe gallery Joanna Latka Lisbon

Fábulas Lisbon

The menu honors the fables (Fábulas means fables in Portuguese), like Cinderela, a delicious warm pumpkin salad, spinach and chevre foam…or Figaro, (chickpea, pumpkin, eggplant, cherry tomato and goat cheese….)

Fabulas Joanna Latka Lisbon 3

 

Fábulas Lisbon

The exhibitions are organized by Galeria das Salgadeiras 

Fabulas Joanna Latka Lisbon 7

Joanna Latka, fine art printmaking – illustration – drawing

Continually producing for exhibitions, presently incorporating unique variations of contemporary ink techniques in illustration and etching – inspired from personal life-experience and autobiographical interpretations.

Fabulas restaurant cafe gallery Joanna Latka Lisbon 6

Fábulas, Calçada Nova de São Francisco, 14, Lisbon

Phone (00351) 213 476 323, open from 10:00 – 24:00, Saturday from 10:00 – 01:00, Sunday from 11:00 – 19:00. Highly recommended!

Fabulas Joanna Latka Lisbon 8

Fábulas Lisbon

In summertime it has a pleasant terrace on the sidewalk.

Fabulas Restaurant cafe Baixa street

Website: http://www.fabulas.pt/ Facebook

Traditional Christmas window dressing in Lisbon & a pierced Santa Claus

Already in October Lisbon is busy decorating the streets and the trees with lots of Christmas lights. The windows of the shops are dressed up with Christmas decorations, and some are quite remarkable!  Portuguese creativity in Lisbon’s commercial heart 🙂

Lisbon Christmas window dressing Largo do Chiado

Christmas window dressing at Largo do Chiado

Elegant shopping district, close to luxury hotel Bairro Alto and Lisbon’s famous nightlife:  possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out!

Lisbon window dressing Christmas time Rua da Prata

Traditional Christmas window dressing  Rua da Prata

Lisbon remarkable Christmas window dressing penis piercings Santa Claus

In the same street, Rua da Prata 88, a pierced Santa Claus

TRIPARTE TATTOO – Body Piercing – Tattoo shop Rua da Prata, 88-90 Baixa, Lisboa

Christmas shopping Lisbon window Hermes

Hermés in December, they love ‘animal window dressing’, Largo do Chiado 9, Lisbon

Lisbon Christmas window dressing Biaxa

Baixa area
Lisbon remarkable Christmas window dressing stars wearing glasses

Rua do Carmo (2010)

Did you ever see stars in the sky wearing glasses ? This street is close to the famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa) and my favorite square in Lisbon : Praça do Carmo

Lisbon remarkable window dressing Christams reindeer recommend sexual desire product

Rua da Madalena, a reindeer in the window is placed in front of a poster ‘ how to increase your sexual desire’ : ‘Libidosil‘ (2010)

..more about this remarkable street….

Remarkable window dressing Lisbon Alfama butcher shop

 Alfama, Rua dos Remediostalho (butcher) do Chafariz

Even de butchers decorate their shops for Christmas… 😉

Remarkable window dressing Lisbon hearing aid

…Hearing Aid shop & new batteries (pilhas 5 euro)

Christmas time in Lisbon tram decorations

Besides: Jingle bells! Even trams (Eletrico Natal) are decorated with lights and steered by Santa Claus himself!

Christmas time in Lisbon Tram and Santa Claus conductur

‘Boas Festas e Feliz Natal’ (Merry Christmas and happy New Year!), Praça da Figueira, more about this area……..

 

Portuguese pavement, lovely wave design, high heals & Theatre Dona Maria II Lisbon

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists! In Lisbon there’s always a lot of work to do, like in Rua da Rosa in Bairro Alto, one of the oldest districts.

Lisbon pavement workers Bairro Alto

Lisbon, area Bairro Alto

Upon a well compacted trench of argillaceous materials, craftsmen lay a bedding of gravel, which will accommodate the stones, acting as a cement.

Pavement Lisbon wave design Rossio

Lovely wave design “the wide sea”, Lisbon’s Rossio Square, the popular name of the Pedro IV Square (Praça de Dom Pedro IV), the ‘heart’ of Lisbon

Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II.

You can discover the theater (or take the time to enjoy a good show). From Monday to Friday there are guided tours, in several languages.

The pavement mostly is laid out in a repetitive pattern, or recreates symbols that are evocative of Portugal’s nautical past.

Besides: the neoclassical Dona Maria II Theatre was built in 1842 on the site of the former Inquisition Palace where processions, auto-da-fés (execution by burning) and public executions took place from 1531 to 1777.

Lisbon pavement Rua Aurea

Beautiful pavement in Rua Áurea, a shopping street in Baixa

Slippery cobbles & high heels

Besides: despite of the artistic appeal, this pavement is not really safe. The uneven surface makes it difficult to navigate. When the cobbles are wet, they are rather slippery. A reason for ladies not wearing high heels…..don’t forget your sandals!

Lisbon pavement Praca do Comercio

Pavement Praço do Comércio, 2008

a spectacular example of Portuguese calçada, made by hand.

Lisbon Pavement Camara Municipal

Pavement Praça do Municipao with Lisbon’s beautiful City Hall (Câmara Municipal). Visitors can admire the interior on Sunday mornings for free.

Future for pavement workers the future is unsure. Once an activity performed by hundreds of craftsmen in Portuguese cities and villages, traditional paving is increasingly becoming restricted to conservation works or important architectural projects. Less abundant materials, dwindling numbers of craftsmen and criticism to its widespread use are forcing municipalities to consider other alternatives.

Rua dom Pedro V, boutiques, traditional antique shops & beautiful jacaranda trees

Walking around in Lisbon is even better after spring has sprung. The streets, squares, parks and avenues are even more beautiful now that the jacarandas are beginning to blossom. Originally from South America, these trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Lisbon Rua dom Pedro V Principe Real jacarandas

Rua dom Pedro V, in May.

Take the time to observe these beautiful trees, like in Rua Dom Pedro V in Principe Real (which means Real Prince) area, near Bairro Alto. a wonderful area for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

Antiques Fabrico Infinito Principe Real mirror

Fabrico Infinito is a very fancy art gallery in Principe RealRua dom Pedro V, 74. Beautiful chandeliers!

Website Fabrico Infinito

Antiques Fabrico Infinito Fabrico Infinito Principe Real

Fabrico Infinito Principe RealRua dom Pedro V, 74 Lisbon

Owners: Marcela Brunken, born in Brasilia. Marcela lived and worked in Germany for a few years; and Tanja Baur, from Germany. The gallery is open from 11:00 – 19:00 daily, except Sundays and Mondays.

Principe Real Fabrico Infinito Exotico & Classico tearoom

Fabrico Infinito Principe Real Lisbon

In tea room “Exotico & Classico’ in the garden you feel like a princess in a fairy tale! They serve simply amazing cakes and tea and much more…  🙂

Lisbon Principe Real tearoom Fabrico Infinito Exotico & Classico

The bill?  A tea (cha) and a muffin de Cenour (home made) 4,70 euro.