Category: Eating & drinking

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Elegant tea- and lunchroom ‘Versailles’ Lisbon: old-fashioned service & funny pastries

If you like to visit one museum during your stay in Lisbon make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria, Pâtisserie) Versailles Lisbon september 2017

Elegant tea- and lunchroom Versailles (from 1922)

After visiting the Gulbekian Museum, a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the famous Portuguese Pasteis de natas.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon & delicious funny ‘bird’ pastries 😉

Elegant setting in informal and friendly atmosphere

The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…!

Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 : NV Lissabon

History

When lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 in the year 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon.

Construction fury first halve of 20th century

The construction fury replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylish houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today’s unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, but happily Pastelaria ‘Versailles’ is still there!  🙂 🙂

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Silver-plated tea sets

The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass.

As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea sets. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon , February 2017 & NV Lissabon

‘Grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ & part of national heritage

Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the ‘grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ was recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662.

Lunch, served in a back room, is of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.

Pastelaria Versailles street 2

Entrance tea- and lunchroom Versailles in Lisbon

Tea and lunchroom Versailles Lisbon
Avenida da Republica 15a
Open: daily from 7:30 till 22:00 
Metro: Saldanha.
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Versailles 3 window dressing

Window dressing Pastelaria Versailles representing Portugal and former colonies  🙁     🙁

Instagram

 

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Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon: excellent steak & chips à la Marilyn Monroe

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ in Lisbon pays tribute to the Portuguese steak sandwich, the prego, also a traditional snack in seafood restaurants. Recommendable!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & wonderful designed wall

Portuguese way of life & artist Gonçalo Mar

The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish

It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.

YouTube: traditional bread from the isle of Madeira , bolo do caco, very tasty!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017: Pedro & Dina

Boeuf de Wagyu (Japanese super-beef) & Marilyn Monroe potatoe chips

2 croquetes 3.80 €, 1 Rissól de Camarão (shrimp) 1.90 €, Pavé (filet) Yuppie Pão 9.50 €, Prato Pavé de boeuf de Wagyu (dish with vegetables and ‘Marilyn Monroe’ potatoe chips) 11.50 €, 2 fried sweet potatoes (batata doce) 3.00 €, 2 glasses of red wine (O Tinto d’ O Prego) 7.00 €.

Why potato chips (wavy, extremely thin and crispy , as indicated on the menu card) à la Mariliyn Monroe? I assume her famous wavy dress? and maybe Marilyn’s ‘potato sack’ dress?  😉

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??

O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego .. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉  

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Portuguese history & Casas de Pasto (pasture house) 

The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.

Old Casa de Pasto ‘pasture house’ in Portugal – around 1920 … Source: Kuentro blogspot

Lisbon people (Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.

With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.

Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356, 
facebook . Open: every day from 12:00 tot 24:00.
website   
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ViniPortugal Lisbon: taste a selection of fine Portuguese wines & wine regions map

A very interesting way to learn more about history and culture of Portuguese wines! Free admission. Tasting 2-4  different wines: € 2

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio Maria João Menezes

Maria João Menezes – ViniPortugal Managing Director Lisbon

ViniPortugal in Lisbon is located in the Ministry of Agriculture premises in Terreiro do Paço (Praça do Comerçio), one of the most majestic squares of Lisbon.

Lisbon Praça do Comércio Feb 2011

Praça do Comerçio, Lisbon February 2011. Picture: Martijn Kramers

In elegant surroundings, you can taste fine Portuguese wines offered by producers through their respective regional wine growing commissions.

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio3

ViniPortugal, wine tasting & tourist information Portuguese wine regions, Sala Ogival, Lisbon

A selection of wines from three different regions changes every month and allows visitors/tourists to taste wines from all over Portugal. Some wines available for tasting can also be purchased and the very friendly and professional staff is always on hand to provide information of the wines currently available.

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio4 Pascale Dubé

ViniPortugal in Lisbon: wine tasting: a branco (white) wine and a rosado (rosé) wine

In comfortable chairs you can take the time to enjoy the wines. Every visitor receives a ‘tasting sheet’ (English/Portuguese) and more information about the three regions. To fill in she sheet you have to give your opinion about your ‘wine emotions’, like ‘aos olhos’ (eyes), ‘no nariz’  (nose) and ‘ na boca’ (mouth). The tasting notes are used for market research.

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio wines

ViniPortugal in Lisbon: selection of wines from three different Portuguese regions

The huge space is separated by large panels decorated with a variety of pictures showing parts of a human body like beautiful lips (In Love), a belly (Mysterious) and a woman’s brest (Relaxed), accompanied by stories about wine

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio1

Descontraída – Relaxed

“The Portuguese, according to the French, are always having a party. We are cheerful whenever events are happy. That’s normal, is it not? Whenever we feel happy, we drink a toast to the hapiness and joy of those we love. Good wine – be it red, white, rosé or generous – cheers the heart. Cheerful soul? Cheerful wine? Let us celebrate whenever there is a festive occasion”

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio6

 ViniPortugal in Lisbon: Isabel Rebelo

The Lisbon Sala Ogival  is the first permanent space devoted to promoting Portuguese wines, preceding its sister location in Oporto, which opened on February 7, 2007 in the Palácio da Bolsa in the historic area of the city.

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio7

ViniPortugal in Lisbon: Sala Ogival wine tasting

From Tuesday to Saturday, between 11.00 and 19.00, ViniPortugal‘ s Sala Ogival de Lisboa is open to the public, located at Praça do Comércio 

Tel. 00351 213 420 690. Mail: sala.ogival@viniportugal.pt

ViniPortugal free wine tasting Lisbon Praça do Comércio VP

ViniPortugal, wine tasting & tourist information Portuguese wine regions, Sala Ogival, Lisbon

Map of Portuguese wine regions. Source: Sunvil

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Teahouse Confeitaria Nacional Lisbon: international award & the King’s cake

This famous traditional teahouse opened in 1829 when Portugal was divided by the liberal struggles. It still remains in the hands of the same family today and has won recognition in various international exhibitions both for its traditional Portuguese cakes and pastries, and for its creative innovation over the years.

Lisbon Confeitaria Nacional10 rabbit coelhinho

Teahouse Confeitaria Nacional Lisbon

Very creative, very sweet, but delicious: ‘coelinho‘ (small rabbit): 1,30 euro

Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest Confectionary, once supplier of the Royal Family2

Teahouse Confeitaria Nacional Lisbon

The interior has not changed since it was opened, and this teahouse is very popular with locals who cannot pass up the oportunity of good tea (chã), with traditional (and fabulous) Portuguese sweets and pastries.

Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest Confectionary, once supplier of the Royal Family3

Teahouse Confeitaria Nacional Lisbon

Confeitaria Nacional launched the “Bolo Rei” (The Kings Cake), customarily associated with Christmas (who gets the bean?) brought to Portugal by the son of the founder in the middle of the 19th Century.

Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest Confectionary, once supplier of the Royal Family6

Teahouse Confeitaria Nacional Lisbon

Tearoom upstairs. Taste the most typical Portuguese cakes, such as Queijadas de Sintra or Doces de Ovos de Aveiro , a sweet paste made with just eggs and sugar.

Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest Confectionary, once supplier of the Royal Family11

Teahouse Confeitaria Nacional Lisbon

Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest Confectionary, once supplier of the Royal Family4

Confeitaria Nacional ,

Praça da Figueira 18B, Lisbon, more…. 

Confeitaria Nacional, Lisbon’s oldest Confectionary, once supplier of the Royal Family9

Teahouse Confeitaria Nacional Lisbon

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Restaurant/bar ‘Tropical do Meco’ in Aldeio do Meco (40 km from Lisbon): great gastronomy

Aldeio do Meco is a small rural village, about 1 km away from the fabulous and famous sandy Meco beaches, ca. 40 km from Lisbon. In Meco village you can find a few trendy bars and a number of restaurants offering the best local gastronomy, in particular seafood and fish dishes, but in case you love meat there’s plenty of choice.

Meco Village Restaurant Tropical do Meco terrace

Restaurant/bar “Tropical do Meco”, Meco village in September

During our stay in Meco village we ate in several restaurants in the previous days. Our favorite: Restaurant/bar “Tropical do Meco“. At night the weather is turning a bit colder in this time of the year (end of September and close to the Atlantic!), so we enjoyed our dinner at the veranda (smoking allowed).

Meco Restaurant Tropical do Meco smoking allowed veranda

Restaurant/bar “Tropical do Meco”

Restaurant’s specialties (especialidades): Mexilhões de cebolada (Mussels prepared with onions) ; Caldeirada de Peixe-espada com amêijoa (a fishstew of scabbard fish and small clams); Filetes de Peixe-espada preto fritos com arroz de tomate (Fried black scabbard fish fillets with tomato rice).

Aldeio do Meco restaurant Tropical do Meco fish espetadaRestaurante Aldeio do Meco ‘Tropical do Meco’ picanha

Our choice: Espetada Tamboril Camarao, € 12,50 and Picanha Carvao (Grilled Picanha, € 11,00) .

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made of chunks of beef or fish rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick with vegetables such as onions and bell peppers and left to grill over smouldering wood chips.

Picanha (meat from Brazil) is generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) is much better than a steak, meltin-in-your mouth !

Meco restaurant Tropical do Meco owners Sergio Nuno and mother

The restaurant service was really great, professional and friendly.

‘Tropical do Meco’ owners Hugo, Sergio (brothers) and their mother Teresa. Besides being a great restaurant, Tropical de Meco is also thé place for the Meco beachcrowd for late night cocktails and other drinks (try a caipinrinha!).

Restaurante Tropical do Medo kitchen

Restaurant ‘Tropical do Meco’

We also got invited to a tour of the kitchen: Teresa, Isabel, Gladys, Clarice and Niso.

Restaurant ‘Tropical Meco’ Meco wine Montado and liqueur Moscatel Roxo

Restaurant ‘Tropical do Meco’

To accompany our food we enjoyed a bottle of Montado white wine from the Alentejo region (€ 5,50), a superb choice! While drinking our coffees a glass of a delicious liqueur was offered by the restaurant: ‘Moscatel Roxo’, a liqueurous wine from the Setúbal Peninsula.

Restaurant ‘Tropical do Meco’, Rua do Comércio 28, Aldeia do Meco, Sesimbra, Setúbal                             Facebook. Closed Tuesday.

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Napoleão shops Lisbon: port, Portuguese wines & Napoleon, the french emperor

Around 1974, after the Portuguese revolution, the Napoleão family in Lisbon started selling wines and Port wines in Lisbon. A quite  peculiar name for a Portuguese family of course, but the explanation is a simple one. Portugal was once occupied by France for a short period of time and like in other European countries Napoleon obliged civilians to register a surname.

Napoleao-Lisbon-Wine-Port

Christina Napoleão

French emperor Napoleon & familyname

That’s why 8 generations ago the ancestors of Christina Napoleão chose the name of the French emperor Napoleon, in Portuguese: Napoleão 😉

Napoleao-Lisbon-Wine-Port3

Napoleão shop, Rua dos Fanqueiros 70 Lisbon

This youngest store of the Napoleão family, located in a beautiful old renovated building , also sells top quality olive oil, tasty jams, azulejos (traditional tiles) and many other typical Portuguese goodies.

Napoleão shop Port tasting

The Napoleão wine shop in the same street, Lisbon

The Napoleão family now owns six shops in Lisbon, and specializes in the best Portuguese wines and Port wines.  They can explain you all about the best Vintage years of the 20th Century.

Napoleão shop Port Wines street Lisbon

Napoleão shops: Rua dos Fanqueiros 70 Lisbon, tel: +351 21 8861108
Website you can order online

Napoleao-Lisbon-Wine-Port2

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Restaurant Portugalia Lisbon: ‘beerhouse’ (Cervejaria), history & delicious seafood

A Cervejaria is a ‘beerhouse’, where beer is produced (or used to be produced) and where you can eat as well. There are many cervejaria’s around Lisbon and the quality of the food is normally very good.

Portugalia cervejaria Lisbon Avenida Almirante Reis

‘Portugalia’ restaurant on Avenida Almirante Reis (near Praça do Chile).

Most Cervejaria’s have restaurant and a bar where you can stand and drink beer and eat snacks like a ‘prego’ which is a steak sandwich. The steak is grilled on the plate and comes with garlic in a white roll. The Portugese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one) with mustard or piri-piri.

A popular snack as well is a small plate of cooked shrimps (camarão) served with sea salt and a part of lemon. You can ask for camarão grande (big ones), camarão medio (medium) or camarão pequeno (baby shrimps).

Portugalia cervejaria Lisbon Avenida Almirante Reis 3

Portugese love there seafood with beer (or with ice cold vinho verde). So on the restaurant menu in a Cervejaria, you will find a lot of seafood (marisco). You can have big shrimps (gambas or camarão tigre), scampi (lagostim) and crab (sapateira). Cooked fresh seafood tastes fantastic with mayonaise, grilled seafood goes very well with ‘molho de limão’. This is a sauce of butter, lemon and a bit of piri-piri. If they don’t bring it, ask for it. Like in all Portugese restaurants, it’s not strange to be specific about how your food is prepared or accompanied.

The crab, sapateira, is cooked and the body is open and filled with a mixture of (among others) crab meat, vinagre, onion, pickles, tomates, eggs, parsley and port wine.

Then there’s the steaks. The steaks can be grilled or fried in a pan with butter. Ask for a steak in ‘molho de cerveja’, ‘beersauce’. It comes with a fried egg on top.

Famous cervejaria’s are restaurants Portugalia and Trindade. Trindade, situated on Rua de Trindade (near Bairro Alto), is a massive restaurant which has a beautiful garden where you can sit during summertime. Prices are a bit above average, but the decoration makes it worthwhile.

Trindade website

Cervejaria Portugalia has become a brand over the years (There are even Portugalia restaurants in shopping centers and outside of Lisbon). You will find many families with children and it’s a bit touristy. The original 80 year old Portugalia restaurant on Avenida Almirante Reis (near Praça do Chile) is certainly the best one you can choose. This is the most traditional Portugalia you can find. Before entering the restaurant you will pass the messy bar where many men hang out, eat pregos and drink beer.

Don’t get us wrong, Portugalia is certainly worth a visit. The shrimps in garlic and olive oil (below) are a treat. Fans can order merchandising on the Portugalia website.

Portugalia cervejaria Lisbon Avenida Almirante Reis Shrimps Garlic