How to prepare Caldeirada (fish stew): traditional Portuguese recipe

Caldeirada, a traditional Portuguese fish stew, can consist of seafood (caldeirada de marisco), salted codfish (caldeirada de bacalhao) or any fish of your choice.

We’ll concentrate on making a ‘caldeirada de peixe (plain fish) and we’ll use some nice fresh douradas. As we cook for 4 persons we’ll take 4 large douradas, or 8 smaller ones.

Mercado da Ribeira fresh fish2

When actually cooking in Lisbon go out to the big market (near to Lisbon’s major railway station and ferry terminal Cais do Sodré )Mercado da Ribeira . A kilo of douradas shouldn’t cost more then 7/8 euros, depending on the quality. Look for fish with shiny eyes and gills that are still red on the inside.

Other ingredients you need:

  • 4 large potatoes
  • 4 cloves of garlic
  • 1 large onion
  • 3 large tomatos
  • 1 red and 1 greene pepper
  • Olive oil
  • White wine
  • Sea salt
  • Coriander

Preparation

Take a large pot, cut the fish into big lumps (including the heads, tails and bones, don’t throw away the good parts). Cut the potatoes, tomatoes, garlic and onions into thin slices, cut the peppers into cubes.

Drizzle some olive oil in the pan and start ‘building up’ the caldeirada. Place the slices of potatoes in the pot, the slices of tomato, the peppers, garlic and onion and finally a third of the fish, some sea salt and coriander. Then start with the second layer, repeating the entire process untill all ingredients are used up. Top with some extra sea salt, coriander, olive oil and white wine.

Don’t save on the olive oil, cooking the caldeirada in oil gives it the rich typical taste.

Place the (closed) pot on a low fire, and let the caldeirada simmer ‘till all the ingredients are cooked (about 45 minutes/ one hour). Serve with bread olives and ice cold ‘vinho verde’ or white wine.

Caldeirada de peixe portugese fish stew

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon: Carmo church ruins & lounging

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado in Lisbon can be found at a surprising location: behind the ruins of convent Convento do Carmo

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Graça district

Two historical monuments of Lisbon

The terraces around the Carmo church are a bit hidden in the center of Lisbon, between two historical monuments : convent Convento do Carmo and  Santa Justa Elevator, both very popular tourist attractions.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & Carmo church

10 minutes walk from here there’s TOPO rooftop restaurant & open air bar, located on the 6th floor of square Martim Moniz Shopping Center, with spectacular views of the  castle of Saint George ( São Jorge) and a part of the city.

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon

TOPO Chiado esplanade with bar,  and a restaurant on a higher level where dishes are served, like snacks, salades and burgers.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Santa Justa Lift

Carmo Convent Lisbon & horror of earthquake in 1755

Carmo Convent is an old gothic cathedral that was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and fire that destroyed much of Lisbon. The ruins represent a memory of that tragedy.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture: Georges Jansoone, Wikipedia

Archaeological museum 

An archaeological museum is housed in the old altar and has an eclectic collection of treasures that include eerie South American mummies.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture:  Wikipedia

From 1 – 30 June 2018: The ruins of the Convento do Carmo will be the screen for a video mapping that will explore more than 600 years of Lisbon’s and Portugal’s history (also in English). MORE…

Article LisbonLux: more info and pictures…

Tickets & visitor information

Square Largo do Carmo Lisbon. More……

Across from the convent entrance is a monumental drinking fountain (late 1700s).

Bar restaurant TOPO Chiado
OPEN: every day from 12:00 – 24:00
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TOPO Chiado Lisbon & friend Margarethe de Vrieze Sept. 2017
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Family restaurant Marítimo Cascais: terrace shaded by centuries-old trees & seafood

Set under two beautiful centuries-old trees in Cascais, there’s the quiet terrace of restaurant Marítimo, easy to reach from Lisbon.

Restaurant Marítimo Cascais close to Lisbon & Ben Weijers, owner of nearby holiday paradise ‘O Corvo’, in Colares. November 2019

Portuguese family restaurant

Restaurant Marítimo in Cascais is a perfect place for a calm and relaxing meal away from the crowds. Two beautiful centuries old trees create the best atmosfere to enjoy a grilled fish or a fresh salad.

Restaurant Marítimo in Cascais & delicious shrimps ( gambas, 15 euro)

A quiet big square next to the restaurant is an ideal place to let the kids play. The menu is varied and typical Portuguese: from fishes, salads, pasta to shellfish, accomponied by Portuguese wines or fresh made juices and cocktails.

Restaurant Marítimo in Cascais, November 2019

Owned by locals

The restaurant is a family business, owned by locals. Couple Sonia and Abilio are the owners/waiters and in the kitchen is Rosa, preparing all the dishes with lots of love and care.
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Restaurant Marítimo in Cascais & delicious clams (amêijoas, 15 euro)
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Cascais is a famous & chic vacation spot, about 25 km from Lisbon by the Atlantic Ocean ( 30 minutes by train, 15-20 minutes by car). Great beaches, and a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks (or by bike) available.

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Restaurant Marítimo in Cascais

Restaurant Marítimo
Open every day from 9:00 am – 9:30 pm. Closed on Sunday. Instagram   website
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Restaurant Marítimo in Cascais & the owner’s lovely lazy dog 😉
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How to reach from Lisbon

Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon by train: ‘Linha de Cascais (name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) from Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, ferry and trainstation. Return ticket: cheap.

More about Cascais……..

National palace Queluz Lisbon: sexual orgies, juicy stories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil.

Information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire & smallpox

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria‘s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia

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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! 🙂 😉 Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

Tram 28 Lisbon Martim Moniz: long lines, best stops & pickpockets

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00-18:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol

Famous viewpoint & tourist attraction,  on the background Museum of Decorative Arts, really worth a visit!

Starting point tram 28, 2018

Square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Pickpockets, take care!

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care! Leave your bag in the hotel/apartment, just take some money with you in your pocket !

Open air elevator square Martim Moniz near starting point tram 28

Open air elevator connecting Martim Moniz square to the streets around St George Castle

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased since a few years, which means tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
Starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28, square Praça Martim Moniz 

All stops vintage tram 28

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Tram 28 , Lisbon

Noisy Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon: polution & eco-friendly silent Tuk Tours

The last few years Tuk-Tuk cars are gaining more popularity among tourists in Lisbon. You see them everywhere in the city: cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly !  🙁  🙁

Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria Lisbon & an eco-friendly Tuk Tuk

Mouraria is a very old neighborhoud with narrow streets where big tourist buses cannot get through.

UPDATE 2018: Electric charging points will soon be installed in Lisbon and diesel tuk tuks will be banned

🙂  🙂

YouTube Movie Tuk Tuk Tour Lisbon

November 2018: tourist guide Josephine & small problem with a Tuk Tuk car

‘Do you like to Tuk-Tuk with me’ ? Voulez-vous Tuk-Tuk avec moi? 😉  I saw a car with a led display using this text in several languages. These little Tuk Tuk vehicles are most ideal for short trips and sightseeing and capable to drive through the small streets in the ancient historical neighborhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria.

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Eco Tours Martim Moniz may 14 1

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: lots of tourists are waiting for legendary electric tram 28

Square Martim Moniz : starting point of the legendary old tram 28

Nowadays several owners of Tuk-Tuk cars are trying to persuade you to take a tour (from 45 – 60 euro for one hour), but a ride with ‘elétrico’ tram 28 will also bring you to most tourist attractions of Lisbon….and much cheaper (around 4 euro pp).

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Tuk-Tuk cars, origin & polution

The Tuk-Tuk cars often run on diesel and some very old ones are imported from Asia. Auto rickshaws of Southeast Asia started from the knockdown production of the Daihatsu Midget which had been introduced in 1957. There are too many of them in Lisbon  🙁  🙁

Tuk Tuk Lisboa Baixa sept 14

Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon downtown city center & elegant shopping area Rua Garrett

Young enthusiastic drivers & Tuk-Tuk cars

One of the advantages of the tuk-tuk cars in Lisbon is the possibility making trips with young and enthusiastic people, who speak several languages. Most of them are especially trained to talk about the historic sites of Lisbon.

Eco friendly Tul Tours Lisbon f1 2

Eco friendly Tuk car in Lisbon, historic area Alfama

Eco (and silent!) Tuk Tours Lisbon

I have no commercial interest but maybe this article helps to make Lisbon cleaner!  😉 😉

Eco Tuk Tours Lisbon narrow streets old town Lisbon 3

Eco friendly Tuk Tour old town Lisbon: narrow streets of Alfama

Meco beach (praia) 40 km south of Lisbon: popular gay beach & how to get there

The beach of Meco is really wonderful, very popular by the Portuguese and the most well known internationally. Meco near Alfarim, 40 km south of Lisbon, is located in the middle of a natural park called ‘Serra da Arrabida’. This is a real ‘mecca’ for nudists & surfers!

Meco nudist beach and argil cliffs

The beach of Meco got famous in the 70s as one of the first nudist beaches.

At the beach, facing the ocean, on the left side is a high dune from where onwards start the naturist area, opposing to the right side, where the beach amenities are situated, frequented by families.

Meco nudist beach and argil cliffs 2

Meco beach

Nudist tourism

The excellent beach cost line in this area, the well persevered surrounded forest and the climate attracts tourists from all across Europe. Nudist tourism is growing vastly in the last several years in Portugal.

Protected by a high cliff, with small springs (drinking water) and excellent green mud (argil) for skin treatments, which is a common sight.

Meco Restaurant Bar do Peixe

Beach restaurant “Bar do Peixe (Fish Bar)”

Excellent bar/restaurant with a chill out area (closed Tuesdays). Traditional Portugese meals.

Meco beach restaurant Bar do Peixe

Beach restaurant ‘Bar de Peixa’ (fishbar)

Bar do Peixe’ Meco beach Facebook

Our choice for lunch: Salada Russa com gambas (Russian salad with shrimps) € 7.50, Salada Atum (Salad with tuna) € 7.50, a small bottle of white wine (vinho branco) € 3.80, agua (water) € 1.00.

Beach restaurant “Bar do Peixe’, Rua Praia do Moinho de Baixo, Meco.

Meco beach fishermen3

Fishermen with their nets

The village mainly lives from the local tourists; when the season is over, people like to visit Meco because of the good restaurants and to walk on the beach.

Meco parking 1 euro

Park your car near the beach of Meco

If you travel by car: from Lisbon, take the A2 South Highway, then towards Sesimbra and after Fernão Ferro turn right to Alfarim, and right again to the beaches (“Praias”). Meco Beach has several paid parking lots. Once agricultural fields, nowadays transformed into car parking lots during summer time, as it is much more profitable for the local families.

Public transport: from Lisbon this beach is not the best to be reached. You’ll need to catch the bus to Sesimbra from Praça da Espanha bus terminal in Lisbon and get off at Santana. Several buses run to Meco on a regular basis. Don’t forget to ask for a timetable to go back to Lisbon.

Meco February 2008 surfing Rob

Wow! My friend Rob Plews

Meco Beach: excellent for activities such as surf, parapente, fishing or windsurf. On windy days the sea can be quite rough.

Meco restaurante Tropical do Meco staff3

Very popular Restaurant/bar ”Tropical do Meco”.  , Aldeio do Meco, excellent local gastronomy & late night cocktails

Aldeio do Meco is a small rural village, about 1 km from Meco beach

Unique former Palace Chiado Lisbon (1781), elegant dining areas & history

The atmosphere is great in this former palace in the heart of Lisbon. Once the recidence of a nobleman who loved to party, now everyone is welcome to admire the beautifully restored rooms, while enjoying fine food and drinks.

Welcome! Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & very nice waiter Aélio

History: Barão (Baron) Joaquim Pedro Quintela, 1st Conde de Farrobo

This elegant palace in Chiado (name of a square and its surrounding area) in Lisbon was built in 1781, where the aristocracy and bons vivants danced, enjoyed lavish banquets and admired new works of art. Baron de Quintela was born in this palace.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon (built in 1781 & a mobile phone….. )

Baron de Quintela: excesses and inordinate feasting

The future 2nd Baron of Quintela and 1st Conde of Farrobo was born in this palace, on 11 December 1801. Despite his importance in political, social and cultural life in Portugal at the time, he will always be remembered for his excesses and revels.

And intrinsically associated with the palace is the famous Portuguese expression ‘farrobodó‘ (from ‘forrobodó’ which literally means having a great party 😉 ).

More about the palace and its history…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016

Renewed Palácio Chiado opened February 2016: fine dining & entertainment

The former home of Baron Quintela opened to the public under the name Palácio Chiado.
The restoration works took more then one and a half year. The historic rooms nowadays host alternatives for fine dining and other forms of entertainment for Lisbon residents and visitors. The palace will also have a varied cultural program.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, 1st floor April 2016

7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts

On the ground floor is a bar, with tables for dining, but simply chill out with a drink is also a possibility. There are seven chefs and their 7 gastronimical concepts, from sushi to burgers, and about 250 seats. The idea is to grab the plate and sit where you want.

It feels a bit like Time Out Ribeira Market in a more sophisticated setting.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & tea for 2 and a chocolate cake

Tea bags & small wooden cake forks

We decided to order tea for two (1 st floor) and a small chocolate cake to share, because we just had lunch.

In this elegant palace with grandeur and beautiful frescoed ceilings we expected an elegant soft pastel designed tea set and gold colored spoons, but not just teabags to dip in our cups and small wooden cake forks to eat the cake?  😉 😉

Chá (tea) for 2 persons: 4 euro. Bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) 2.50 euro

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & one of the beautiful frescoed ceilings

Restaurants:

The historic salons of the Palácio Chiado now host seven prestigious fine dining area’s.

Traditional Portuguese snacks (petiscos), cocktails & sparkling wines with fish and shellfish, hamburgers, steaks, light and healthy meals, seafood and sushi.

More details about the restaurants

palace-chiado-lisbon-tapas-erika-reusens

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & Erika Reusens

Palácio Chiado Lisbon: really worth a visit!
Rua do Alecrim, 70 – Lisbon
Wonderful Website (also in Enlish)   FACEBOOK
Sunday till Wednesday from 12:00 – 24:00
Thursday till Saturday from 12:00- 02:00

Video inauguration of the Chiado Palace with hundreds of guests

Despite occupying a considerable area of Rua do Alecrim, the Palace has only one entry, at number 70.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon

Baron Quintela Room for private events (your own aristocratic party? 😉  )

Seating 16 to 25, Quintela Room can be hired for private events, for a discreet meal, a dinner with friends, or professional events. More…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & dining area

Calçada do Duque Lisbon: hundreds of stairs & Restaurant Solar du Duque

From Bairro Alto you can walk to Rossio The hundreds of stairs lead you down to Calçada do Duque starting in Rua Nova da Trindade

Calcada do Duque from Rua Nova da Trindada

Rua Nova da Trindade,

Close to area Bairro Alto (litt. ‘high neighborhood’). During the day a very relaxed area with trendy shops. Traditionally been Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, a hotspot for people who love nightlife.

Lisbon, Calçada do Duque in wintertime

A few hundred steps that connect the higher-lying Bairro Alto district to Rossio square.

Calcada do Duque stairs restaurants and view Caselo St George

Calçada do Duque, Lisbon

The stairs are lined with lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants (not the cheapest).

Background: Saint George’s Castle (Castelo de São Jorge), a wonderful view!

Traditional Portuguese meals, local price 🙂 & also typical Portugues: hanging laundry 😉

Restaurant Solar du Duque, Rua do Duque 67, Lisbon.  A simple and pleasant space with a casual atmosphere. Facebook

More…..

September 2019: Toon Mulder en Thirza van Deene

Almost downstairs, Calçada do Carmo . View on Rossio square ( official name: Praça Dom Pedro IV)

Calcada do Duque near Rossio stairs and station

The beautiful Rossio station

Bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon: Ginja liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

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Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and Lisbon’s first fado singer
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
June 2019, Artur Domingos & Gabrielle
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Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
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