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Portuguese pavement, lovely wave design, high heals & Theatre Dona Maria II Lisbon

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists! In Lisbon there’s always a lot of work to do, like in Rua da Rosa in Bairro Alto, one of the oldest districts.

Lisbon pavement workers Bairro Alto

Lisbon, area Bairro Alto

Upon a well compacted trench of argillaceous materials, craftsmen lay a bedding of gravel, which will accommodate the stones, acting as a cement.

Pavement Lisbon wave design Rossio

Lovely wave design “the wide sea”, Lisbon’s Rossio Square, the popular name of the Pedro IV Square (Praça de Dom Pedro IV), the ‘heart’ of Lisbon

Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II.

You can discover the theater (or take the time to enjoy a good show). From Monday to Friday there are guided tours, in several languages.

The pavement mostly is laid out in a repetitive pattern, or recreates symbols that are evocative of Portugal’s nautical past.

Besides: the neoclassical Dona Maria II Theatre was built in 1842 on the site of the former Inquisition Palace where processions, auto-da-fés (execution by burning) and public executions took place from 1531 to 1777.

Lisbon pavement Rua Aurea

Beautiful pavement in Rua Áurea, a shopping street in Baixa

Slippery cobbles & high heels

Besides: despite of the artistic appeal, this pavement is not really safe. The uneven surface makes it difficult to navigate. When the cobbles are wet, they are rather slippery. A reason for ladies not wearing high heels…..don’t forget your sandals!

Lisbon pavement Praca do Comercio

Pavement Praço do Comércio, 2008

a spectacular example of Portuguese calçada, made by hand.

Lisbon Pavement Camara Municipal

Pavement Praça do Municipao with Lisbon’s beautiful City Hall (Câmara Municipal). Visitors can admire the interior on Sunday mornings for free.

Future for pavement workers the future is unsure. Once an activity performed by hundreds of craftsmen in Portuguese cities and villages, traditional paving is increasingly becoming restricted to conservation works or important architectural projects. Less abundant materials, dwindling numbers of craftsmen and criticism to its widespread use are forcing municipalities to consider other alternatives.

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Lisbon Walker: guided walks through historical Lisbon

Lisbon has steadily built up an image of one of the world’s most interesting cities to visit. Its stunning location and historic significance is generously complemented by remarkable aesthetics, making it stand out as one of the few capital cities still human in pace and in scale.

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To discover Lisbon in the company of friendly and knowledgeable tour guides is the whole point of Lisbon Walker, overtaking the limitations of guidebooks to unveil the real personality of this unique location. All walking tours are in English.

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If you want to join one of the tour guides for a walk through Lisbon, just choose one of the historical tours on the Lisbon Walker Website and all you need to do is show up at the meeting point near Praça do Comércio, according to the timetable of the walks. Regular walking tour ticket (2008) – €15.00 per person/tour. Under 26, over 65, holders of Lisboa Card or valid tickets from TAP, CP or Sightseeing tours: €10.00 per person/tour. Children under 12 free tour. Each walk takes between 2 and 3 hours.

Lisbon Walker Fish Market

Fish Market

Lisbon Walker Bairro Alto

Bairro Alto

Lisbon walker Carmo Square

Square (Praça) do Carmo

Lisbon Walker Alfama

Alfama

 

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Famous Cafe ‘A Brasileira’: wonderful Art Deco style & poet Pessoa’s table

Elegant shopping street Rua Garrett,  lIsbon, that leads from the Baixa to Chiado, is named after the author and poet Joao Almeida Garrett (1799-1854). The area is also an important cultural area, with several museums and theatres.

winkelen Rua Garrett2
Rua Garett, June 2008.

On the background cafe ‘A Brasileira’ s terrace. You will see young locals here just socialising or window shopping.

Lisbon shopping Rua Garrett building

Rua Garrett, Lisbon

The most famous street of Lisbon, that mixes traditional chic and modern commercial shops, is also beloved by tourists.

Pessoa statue Cafe A Brasileira tourists

Cafe ‘A Brasileira’ (Rua Garrett 120) is famous for having had the enigmatic poet Fernando Pessoa  (1888-1935) among his customers.

Pessoa still has his table in bronze on the terrace (the work of sculptor Lagoa Henriques).

Portugal’s famous writer has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists, all day long!

The downstairs seating area is a favourite with locals for a set lunch of traditional Portuguese specialties. The cafe once was the setting for tertulías literárias (lively discussion groups) in which debate would often culminate in chair throwing, cup smashing and brawls.

Lisbon shopping: Rua Garett cafe a Brasileira outside

‘A Brasileira’ (‘The Brazilian woman’), opened in 1905 as a shop selling genuine Brazilian coffee.

It was the first shop to sell the ‘bica’, a small cup of strong coffee, similar to espresso.

Lisbon shopping Rua Garrett cafe A Brasileira inside

The interior of ‘A Brasileira’ is grandiose: decorated in Art Deco style, with a green-and-gold entrance, mirrored walls, brass fittings, and a long oak bar.

However: bad service and inattentive staff  for tourists. It’s a very popular tourist destination, and prices are high.

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Market Mercado de Arroios Lisbon: fresh fish, flowers, fruit & friendly people

If you like browsing through local markets, go to Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon!

Lisbon Shopping: Mercado do Arroios fresh food & fish market

Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon

The always very nice Portuguese people are proud to show you the fresh fish…

Lisbon Shopping: Mercado de Arroios fish

Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon

…..and take their time to make a friendly neighbourly talk.

Lisbon Shopping: Mercado de Arroios vegetables

Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon

This lively fresh produce & fishmarket is open from Monday-Saturday 07-00 till 14:00.

Lisbon shopping: Mercado de Arroios building

Mercado de Arroios, Rua Ângela Pinto, near the Arroios metro station, close to Estefania.
Selling locally sourced fish, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers.

Mercado da Ribeiro, famous market near the Tagus river

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Restaurant ‘A Travessa’, one of Lisbon’s best & unique location

We had heard great things about ‘A Travessa’, a trendy restaurant located in a former convent in Bairro da Madragoa, and one of Lisbon’s best: from food, service to location.

Restaurante A Travessa inside

Restaurant ‘A Travessa’ Lisbon

The building used to be a 17th century convent. Set in the very peaceful quarter in Santo (Lapa) this is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Lisbon. There are at least three dining areas; the main room, a small side room and a terrace in the old courtyard. In the bar right next to the restaurant you can have an appetizer while waiting for your table. In winter, you can dine inside by the fireplace, and in summertime ‘al fresco’ in the wide courtyard.

Restaurant A Travessa dining outside

Restaurant ‘A Travessa’ Lisbon

The menu is Portuguese-Belgian, but international as well. Before you order they do provide you with some original hors d’oeuvres. The wine list includes many of Portugal’s best, including an extensive selection of Douro reds. The place is stunning, the people are really nice and the food is excellent!

There’s no parking area – so don’t go driving, instead use a taxi.

A Travessa (website including the history of the Convent and a virtual tour)
Travessa do Convento das Bernardas, 12
Bairro da Madragoa – Santo
1200-638 Lisbon
Tel: (+351) 21 390 20 34 / 21 394 08 00

Prices: more expensive than average.  Open on 24, 25 & 31 December and 1st January.

Viviane Durieu owner A Travessa restaurant Lisbon

The creator of restaurant ‘A Travessa’ in Lisbon is Viviane Durieu (Belgian origine), read her story and Viviane’s favorite places in Lisbon

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Viviane Durieu, creator of ‘A Travessa’ Lisbon, famous restaurant & 17th-century convent

Viviane Durieu is creator of ‘A Travessa’, one of Lisbons best restaurants, set in a 17th-century convent, with a picturesque courty yard.

Lisbon people Viivane Durieu 3

“When I arrived in Lisbon in December 1969, two days before Christmas, I thought the climate and the light were fantastic. Especially because I had arrived from Belgium where it’s cloudy for nine months of the year and we only get a few months of blue sky. I remember being surprised to see the leaves still on the trees at that time of year.

I fell in love with the city, and still I’m fascinated by the humanism of the Portuguese and the beautiful light.

Viviane Durieu restaurant

My background is in photography, I worked in this field until we opened restaurant ‘A Travessa’, which only started as a bit of a joke between me, my husband and a friend.

We opened a small restaurant with good products: coffee that you couldn’t find in Portugal at that time, good bread and good wine, just round the corner from the current ‘A Travessa’, next to the Portuguese Parliament building and surrounded by embassies. Because we were French speakers we got lots of clients from the Belgian and French embassies. It was a hit. We just developed from there and it’s been 30 years this year since we opened. Time flies…..!”

‘A Travessa’ , Travessa do Convento das Bernardas, 12 Bairro da Madragoa – Santo, more details about the restaurant and the menu

“I live in the historic area near the Sao Jorge Castle (Castelo de São Jorge), a delight for residents, with limited car access. The narrow streets of uneven cobbles make life in the centre of the city like living in a village”.

Lisbon entrance Castelo Sao Jorge

Castelo Sao Jorge, entrance

“When I arrived in Lisbon, I use to go to Sintra a lot. As it’s colder there, I felt closer to Belgium and I dreamt about having a house there. World Heritage Site, this historic town lies 40 km from Lisbon, a must for any visitor!”

Sintra Palacio Nacional da Pena

Sintra: National Palace da Pena, now a museum. The very old Palace stands on the top of a hill above the town of Sintra. On a clear day it can easily seen from Lisbon.

“In Lisbon, I like to shop in the Baixa and Chiado areas. I don’t like shopping centers, I prefer traditional shops, it’s much nicer to walk around the town”.

Lisbon shopping Rua do Carmo Ana Salazar

Lisbon, Rua do Carmo, Baixa

“i like going to Belém. The Jeronimus Monastery and the famous classic Belém custard tarts (Pasteis de Belém) , always warm, are real musts! And I like the shows at Centro Cultural de Belém, which has got the best concert hall in Lisbon.”

Belem Pasteis de Nata

Antiga Confeitaria, since 1837. The recepe of Lisbon’s most celebrated custard tarts is still a well-kept secret…open 7 days a week.

Lisbon Belem Pasteis de Belem
History: at the beginning of the Nineteenth Century, in Belém, next to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (the Heironymite Monastery) there was a sugar cane refinery linked to a small general store. As a result of the liberal revolution of 1820, all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down in 1834, the clergy and labourers expelled.

In an attempt at survival, someone from the monastery offered sweet pastries for sale in the shop; pastries that rapidly became known as ‘Pasteis de Belém’.

Graças a Maria Ventura

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Rua dom Pedro V, boutiques, traditional antique shops & beautiful jacaranda trees

Walking around in Lisbon is even better after spring has sprung. The streets, squares, parks and avenues are even more beautiful now that the jacarandas are beginning to blossom. Originally from South America, these trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Lisbon Rua dom Pedro V Principe Real jacarandas

Rua dom Pedro V, in May.

Take the time to observe these beautiful trees, like in Rua Dom Pedro V in Principe Real (which means Real Prince) area, near Bairro Alto. a wonderful area for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

Antiques Fabrico Infinito Principe Real mirror

Fabrico Infinito is a very fancy art gallery in Principe Real,  Rua dom Pedro V, 74. Beautiful chandeliers!

Website Fabrico Infinito

Antiques Fabrico Infinito Fabrico Infinito Principe Real

Fabrico Infinito Principe Real,  Rua dom Pedro V, 74 Lisbon

Owners: Marcela Brunken, born in Brasilia. Marcela lived and worked in Germany for a few years; and Tanja Baur, from Germany. The gallery is open from 11:00 – 19:00 daily, except Sundays and Mondays.

Principe Real Fabrico Infinito Exotico & Classico tearoom

Fabrico Infinito Principe Real Lisbon

In tea room “Exotico & Classico’ in the garden you feel like a princess in a fairy tale! They serve simply amazing cakes and tea and much more…  🙂

Lisbon Principe Real tearoom Fabrico Infinito Exotico & Classico

The bill?  A tea (cha) and a muffin de Cenour (home made) 4,70 euro.

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Charming Rua do Carmo & famous tiny glove store ‘Luvaria Ulisses’

The easiest way to get to Rua do Carmo is from the central square Rossio

Lisbon shopping Rua do Carmo

From Rossio you walk up to Rua do Carmo.

There are trendy shops of international brands and some other traditional and very old ones.

Lisbon shopping Rua do Carmo police

Rua do Carmo. Lisbon

Lisbon Shopping Rua do Carmo Gloves Shop

Famous little glove store ‘Luvaria Ulisses’, Rua do Carmo nr 87 A

This very small shop has his own production of tailor made gloves from any design. A real tourist attraction.

shopping Lisbon Rua do Carmo Ana Salazar2

The small gloves shop is near Ana Salazar’s Boutique, one of Portugal’s top designers.

Ana Salazar was born and lives in Lisbon. During the 70’s, she started to work on the Fashion scene, developing a new concept of clothing in Portugal, changing completely the way of presenting fashion shows in Portugal, creating the first Fashion Events, exhibits and expositions.

Lidbon Shopping Rua do Carmo shop Carina

The beautiful decorated shop ‘Au Bonheur des Dames‘,

Once a perfume shop, is nowadays a woman’s boutique with a cool selection of funky and trendy clothes. Most shops open between 9 and 10 A.M. They close for lunch between 1 and 3 P.M. and close at 7 P.M.

Lisbon Shopping Rua do Carmo Jewelry


(Joalharia) Jewelry do Carmo, Rua do Carmo 87B, is one of the best shops in the city. All the silver pieces are handmade, it’s really worth a visit.

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Historic Alfama Lisbon: the Pantheon, marvelous river views & the remains of Amalia Rodrigues

You can find the Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) on Campo de Santa Clara, near Lisbons’ most famous flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’ (Thieves market)

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The Pantheon is opened daily, from 09:00 – 13:00 and 15:00-19:00, a ticket cost 2 euro. Address:  Campo de Santa Clara Lisbon.

It is possible to walk around the inside of the dome, you can climb the 169 stairs (I did it, pfffffff!) or use the elevator. From the exterior of the dome the view on the Alfama area and on to the Tagus river is marvelous!

Pantheon view 25 april bridge

View on the historic Alfama area and the Tagus river

History: the Church of Santa Engrácia (Igreja de Santa Engrácia) is a 17th century monument. In the 20th century the church has been converted into the National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Alfama Pantheon Amalia Rodrigues

Amalia Rodrigues

Its construction took 284 years and gave origin to the Portugese expression “Santa Engrácia works“, a Portuguese synonym for long unfinished works…..

Building work proceeded from 1682 through 1712. Eventually a dome was added, whereupon the church was reinaugurated in 1966. The magnificent 18th-century baroque organ was brought from the Lisbon Cathedral.

Alfama Pantheon organ

The magnificent 18th-century baroque organ

In 1966, during the government of the dictator Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, the Church of Santa Engrácia was turned into a National Pantheon. There are cenotaphs to f.i. Luís de Camões (famous Portugese poet), Pedro Alvares Cabral (Portuguese explorer), Vasco da Gama (commander of the first ships to sail directly from Europe to India) and Prince Henri The Navigator, an important figure in the early days of the Portugese Empire.

Alfama Pantheao Vasco da Gama

Vasco da Gama, his remains are elsewhere….

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Bairro Alto Lisbon at daytime: trendy shops, art galleries & fashion queen Fatima Lopes

Lisbon Bairro Alto (high neighborhood) or just Bairro, in the afternoon.

Bairro Alto by day beautiful flowers

During the day Bairro Alto is very quiet.

Elder people with coloured plastic bags are coming back from the market, having a chat with eachother while they slowly climb the steepy streets. The atmosphere is very relaxed. In the shops and in the cafes people take their time to make a friendly neighbourly talk.

Bairro Alto by day

The area has traditionally been Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers.

All the major Portuguese newspapers had their offices in Bairro Alto. This picturesque heart of Lisbon’s youth culture, nightlife, shopping and entertainment district, is one of the oldest districts of Lisbon dating from the 16th century.

Bairro Alto Rua da Rosa by day

(Rua da Rosa).

Since the 1990s, Bairro Alto went through major changes. Lisbon’s city council made extensive repairs, and dozens of new restaurants and fado singing clubs animated the area. Trendy shops were opened. Many young people moved into the area. Cars were banned (except for residents and emergency vehicles).

Bairro Alto by day trendy shop

Agência 117, Rua do Norte 117, ‘skunk funk’ fashion.

Nowadays, in Bairro Alto Lisbon’s punk, gay, heavy metal music, goth, hiphop and reggae scenes all have the Bairro as their home, due to the number of clubs and bars dedicated to each of them.

BairroAlto at by day graffiti

During daytime, the Bairro is a traditional district where older people shop for groceries, and the younger generations visit art galleries like Zé dos Bois, Rua da Barroca 59, bookshops like Ler Devagar (litt. read slowly, nowadays this wonderful shop is situated in LX factory), arty gift shops like Hold Me, Rua do Norte 33, offering a collection of bags and luggage.

Bairro Alto by day shop Fatima Lopez

Local fashion queen Fatima Lopes’ shop , Rua da Atalaia 36.

Grandma Duck

Beautiful clothes, but according to me the window mannequins look like grandma Duck injected with lots of Botox shots…. 😉 😉

Bairro Alto by day graffiti

Despite the police presence, illegal drugs are sold in the streets. Bairro Alto struggles with a problem of graffiti, destroying historical buildings . More……Bairro Alto by night