Museum Casa dos Bicos Lisbon, restaurants & famous fish cannery shop

Quite close to the historic Alfama neighborhood, a very nice street to walk around at Lisbon’ city center is Rua dos Bacalhoeiros (street of the cod fish sellers). The buildings that face the Tejo River look lovely, but if you take a closer look, they mostly are in a worse condition.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros near Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

Walking from Praça do Comércio in the direction to Alfama, you will get to Rua dos Bacalhoeiros. The famous 28 tram (eletrico) passes here on its way to the Santa Apolonia station.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros terraces near Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon 2009

This part of the street is really beautiful. The small restaurants with a terrace outside are popular; even in wintertime when the sun is shining you can enjoy a beer or have lunch outside.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Adega do Atum near Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

Just near ‘Casa dos Bicos’ is restaurant ‘Adega do Atum‘, The waiters are friendly and not too agressive. They serve traditional fish and meat meals and have the Portuguese Sagres beer on tap (imperial). Try ‘Salade de Atum’ (tuna fish € 7 ) for lunch 🙂

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon & Casa dos Bicos (House of the pointed stones)

Casa dos Bicos (House of the pointed stones).  

This Palace was built in the early 16th century, a notable part of Lisbon’s heritage and one of the few examples with traces of the 15th C. architecture.

From 1981 to 1982, Casa dos Bicos was the site of excavations, many archaelogical findings were unearthed (ceramic and glass pieces a.o.). Worth a visit!

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros3 shop nr 117 Silva & Feijó

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

You will find various shops in this street. Silva & Feijó, on the other side of Casa dos Bicos, sells a.o. wines and typical Portuguese handicrafts.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros lots of restaurants

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

Lunchtime in Lisbon. This part of the street is filled with lots of restaurants, from traditional Portuguese to Chinese.

A Churrasqueira is a restaurant serving grilled meat or fish, many offering as much as you can eat: the waiters move around the restaurant with the skewers, slicing meat onto your plate. Frango de Churrasco with piri piri (a kind of salty roasted chicken spiced with hot red chili sauce) is very popular.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros restaurant espetada

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

Restaurant Churrasqueira Santo António.

Carlos Marcalo, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 133, invites you to try their ‘espetada‘, a typical Portuguese dish made of large chunks of fish or beef rubbed in garlic and salt with vegetables such as onions and bell peppers.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros shop canned fish

Luís Vieira.

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery), nr 34.  Famous! Wonderful very old preserved-fish store with hundreds of colourful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish. This shop opened 80 years ago, nothing has changed.

Lisbon Roa do Comerico shit

Rua do do Comércio ,

The shit of today will fertilize tomorrow...” 😉 a building drawing, just around the corner of Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and Rua da Madalena

Museum of Decorative Arts Lisbon, former Palace, lovely tiles & fascinating collection

In this wonderful former Palace in Lisbon (Museu-Escola de Artes Decorativas), Museum and school, it’s forbidden to make pictures. After taking a few ones a guard warned me. Suddenly, walking from room to room, 4 guards kept an eye on me …..

Lisbon Museum of Decorative Arts1

The entrance: ‘Coupé Berlin, 18th Century.

Portugal’s most important furniture collection can be viewed here: valuable wooden Portuguese, French and English furniture dating from the 15th to the 18th C.

You can wander freely from room to room and get right up close to the pieces on display.

Lisbon Museum of Decorative Arts3

The grand staircase leading to 1st floor has lovely tiles.

An on-site collection of tiles (azulejos), several of which originallly pertained to the Palace, while others were integrated therein during the restorations works, in the end of the 1940s.

In the 17th C. former city palace of the Count of Azurara , currently houses the Museum of Decorative Arts. Banker Ricardo do Espirito Santo Silva, acquired the palace in 1947 and donated his collection to the museum.

Lisbon Museum of Decorative Arts4

Beautiful ceiling and azulejos! Sorry, no more pictures (the guards…).

The museum has a remarkable collection of faience, local silver and ceramics, paintings, bedrooms, dining rooms and dressing rooms. Each room is more ornated than the next, in an aristocratic environment. Anyone interested in decorative arts in general and the Portuguese Empire in particular will find this collection fascinating.

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Museum of Decorative Arts, Alfama

Largo das Portas do Sol, 2 . More information, videos and Museum shop  http://www.fress.pt/  . Near the famous viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol (‘Gates to the Sun’)

Closed: New year’s Day, Easter, May 1st and Christmas (December 25). Cost Adult 4.00, free entrance for children aged 12 or under. Opening hours 10 a.m to 5 a.m. Lovely patio with cafetaria-restaurant.

Largo Duque de Cadaval Lisbon near Rossio Station & sunny open-air cafes

Right on the leftside of the Rossio Station in Lisbon, there’s Largo Duque de Cadaval. It ‘s a bit hidden behind the Rossio train station, full of sunny open-air cafes.

Lisbon Largo Duque Cadaval Rossio Station3

Largo (square) ‘Duque de Cadaval’ Lisbon near Rossio Station

This place is a good idea while you’re waiting for the train. A coffee (bica) 0.95 euro). Even in wintertime when the sun is shining you can sit outside, the terraces are protected from the wind.

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Largo Duque de Cadaval Lisbon near Rossio Station

Restaurants and cafés has been created here, apart from all the noice and traffic.

Lisbon Largo Duque Cadaval Rossio Station4

Largo Duque de Cadaval Lisbon near Rossio Station

On the background you see Calcada do Duque, the beginning of the more than 300 stairs leading to Bairro Alto

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Square ‘Largo Duque de Cadaval’  Lisbon near Rossio Station

The ice cream shop Gelateria Finzi Contini. From outside it does not look like an ice cream shop, but it is, and a good one.

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Square ‘Largo Duque de Cadaval’  Lisbon near Rossio Station

Natural ingredients and recipes are an Italian/Argentinian fusion. 4.00 euro and delicious! Besides they serve home made pastry, sandwiches and crepes.

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Square ‘Largo Duque de Cadaval’  Lisbon next to Rossio Station

After all the renovations this place is this really beautiful.

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Square ‘Largo Duque de Cadaval’  Lisbon near Rossio Station

Finzi Contini ice cream shop, Gislaine Nazario. Largo do Duque, de Cadaval Lisbon

Café ‘Leitaria A Camponeza’ Lisbon, once a milkshop & Portuguese ‘Art Nouveau’ style

If you look for a nice and quiet café after walking around in the Rossio area in Lisbon, this 100 years old cafe is really worth it to sit down and admire the place !

Lisbon cafe Leitaria Camponeza2

Cafe ” Leitaria A Camponeza”, Lisbon

This is an old-fashioned Leitaria (milkshop), specializing in milk products and pastries, whose blue-tiled walls display bucolic scenes.

Mostly Purtuguese people are drinking a bica (strong coffee) or a tea (chá) while reading a newspaper.

Lisbon Leitaria Camponeza4

Cafe ” Leitaria A Camponeza”, Lisbon

This house is for over 100 years in the same family: Ana Claudia Diogo (r) and her niece Filipa Indias.

Lisbon cafe Leitaria Camponeza7

Cafe ” Leitaria A Camponeza”, Lisbon

Ana Diogo’s grand grand father, José Domingos Diogo, built this place (pictures of the family are hanging on the wall), from origin a milkshop, in Portuguese ‘Art Nouveau’ style and beautiful tiles (azulejos). The café was recently renovated, but with care….

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Cafe ” Leitaria A Camponeza”, Lisbon

Chá (tea) in a pot (in style) 1,20 euro. The coffee, cakes, and sandwiches are all good.

Lisbon cafe Leitaria Camponeza8

Cafe ” Leitaria A Camponeza”

Open from 07:45 – 19:00, closed on Sundays

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Cafe Leitaria ‘A Camponeza’ , Rua dos Sapateiros, 155/157, Lisbon

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira: Sunday morning coin & stamp collectors

On every Sunday morning from 09:00 – 13:00, the second floor of the old market Mercado da Ribeira (map)  (Market near the river since 1882), is reserved for coin and stamp collectors.

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira Coin Collectors Market1

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon – coin and stamp collectors

A good Dutch friend of mine is a coin collector, he asked me to browse the markets in Lisbon.  I’m not really interested in coins, but this is worth a visit!

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira Coin Collectors Market2

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon – coin and stamp collectors

It seems that mostly men are interested in coin collection………and they are trading furiously!

On the background you see covered market stalls: on the other days of the week market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbons biggest open food market , is selling fom fresh fish to fruit, from ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body….

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira Coin Collectors Market4

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon – coin and stamp collectors

It’s really nice to walk around here, even if you are not looking for coins or old stamps. They sell more, like calendars, very old postcards and paper money. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy cultural center, selling locally produced items such as port, honey, and handicrafts.

Coins collectors Feira da Ladra

Feira da Ladra Lisbon

Also at Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra, you can find all kind of coins….

Lisbon Flea market Praca do Comercio saturday3 coins Joao

Flea market Praça do Comércio. Lisbon

….and on every Sunday there’s a small flea market at  Praça do Comércio. This is João, don’t be afraid to negotiate the price!

Lisbon Flea market Praca do Comercio saturday3 coins Joao and Jack

Praça do Comércio. – Sunday morning & coin collectors

Sightseeing Lisbon: Pasteis de Nata in Belém in a toy-like GoCar & hilly streets

A new, different and unique way to explore Lisbon: these tourist cars look like toys and if you’re driving one they make you laugh, sometimes out loud! People who see you driving start smiling or say ”Whow!”

GoCar Lisbon Rob and Julie

My friend Rob Plews (r) and I (I’m Julie Kruijs), December 2008. V

ery surprising is this car can talk, but not with a monotone voice. The unique GPS-system with a lovely lady (blond?) voice is really smart: she gives directions, cracks jokes and tells stories in English, Portuguese and French. Soon it will be available in Spanish and German. But you can turn it off if you like and listen to music. Car top-speed is 50km/h

GoCar office Lisbon Leonel Santos Soares and Joao Paiva Mendes

GoCar office Lisbon

Leonel Santos Soares and João Paiva Mendes in their office, Rua dos Douradores 16.

” When we started with GoCar Tours in September, 2 tourists told us after their tour that the police stopped their car. “Oh my God, did we do something wrong?” they wondered. “Are they going to fine us?” But no, the policemen simply wanted to know where they could rent one for themselves. Another GoCar customer, middle-aged, trundled back after his experience and said – “You have just knocked twenty years off my age!”

GoCar Lisbon Rob Plews near Park Principe Real

Rob Plews enjoys the little car 🙂

You can stop wherever you want for photos, grab a coffee or break for lunch. Or you can blaze your own trail and explore the city streets, neighborhoods and parks on your own.

GoCar Lisbon December 2008 hilly streets

Hilly streets of Lisbon

We decided to try out some hilly streets in Lisbon with this small car (it made it!), then we drove to Belém, where we enjoyed a few of Lisbon’s most celebrated custard tarts: Pasteis de Belém. No parking problems! We locked our cute little helmets up in the boot.

Lisbon Belem Pasteis

Pastel de Nata (portuguese egg tart pastry), delicious and famous!

Pasteis de Belém, Antiga Confeitaria, Rua de Belém 84-92. The recipe of Lisbon’s most celebrated custard tarts is still a well-kept secret….

As part of the GPS Tours Network, several exciting tours in Lisbon are available: one for the Central Baixa, for Belém, the Sao Jorge Castle or to the Expo. Rental rates: see Website GoCar Tours

GoCar Office Rua dos Douradores 16 Lisbon

GoCars, Rua dos Douradores 16. Open from 9AM to 6PM. Tel: (00351) 21 0967926 or (00351) 914275341. Email: reservation-pt@gocartours.com

Walking around Lisbon: from viewpoint Santa Catarina to the waterfront of the Tagus river

Don’t miss the wonderful views from Miradouro de Santa Catarina or ‘Adamastor‘, a popular gathering place in Lisbon. From this vista point you have the most breathtaking views of the Tagus (Tejo) river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument.

Santa Catarina Adamastor September 2009

Adamastor‘ or Miradouro de Santa Catarina ( More information on this website) is one of the favourite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors, and also the nearby cafe/restaurant Noobai.

Lisbon Rua de Santa Catarina

Close to Miradouro de Santa Catarina you can go for a walk to the waterfront of the Tejo river. Rua de Santa Catarina in the afternoon, a typical Lisbon street.

Lisbon Rua de Santa Catarina smart parking

A very smart way to park your car in the narrow streets of Lisbon!

Lisbon Rua Fernandes Tomas

View on the Tagus River from Rua Fernandes Tomas

Lisbon Rua Boa Vista

At the end of Rua Fernandes Tomas towards the river you cross Rua Boa Vista (street named after an island of Cape Verde, former colony of Portugal), a lively street with lots of shops, typical Portuguese restaurants and bars.

Mercado da Ribeira Avenida 24 de Julho

Avenida 24 de Julho, just in front of the river Tejo. The beautiful building of the Mercado do Ribeira (market near the river, since 1882) is topped with a Moorish-style dome. This market is worth a visit! ‘from hot ‘piri-piri to funeral flowers’

Cais do Sodre Womean

On the waterfront, near Cais do Sodré. Women are selling fresh fruit.

Lisbon Cais do Sodre ferry

The river Tejo, Cais do Sodré , Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation and ferry terminal to Cacilhas, Seixal, Montijo and ferries to Trafaria and Porto Brandão (near the white and unspoilt beaches of Caparica).

Restaurant/bar ‘Tropical do Meco’ in Aldeio do Meco (40 km from Lisbon): great gastronomy

Aldeio do Meco is a small rural village, about 1 km away from the fabulous and famous sandy Meco beaches, ca. 40 km from Lisbon. In Meco village you can find a few trendy bars and a number of restaurants offering the best local gastronomy, in particular seafood and fish dishes, but in case you love meat there’s plenty of choice.

Meco Village Restaurant Tropical do Meco terrace

Restaurant/bar “Tropical do Meco”, Meco village in September

During our stay in Meco village we ate in several restaurants in the previous days. Our favorite: Restaurant/bar “Tropical do Meco. At night the weather is turning a bit colder in this time of the year (end of September and close to the Atlantic!), so we enjoyed our dinner at the veranda (smoking allowed).

Meco Restaurant Tropical do Meco smoking allowed veranda

Restaurant/bar “Tropical do Meco”

Restaurant’s specialties (especialidades): Mexilhões de cebolada (Mussels prepared with onions) ; Caldeirada de Peixe-espada com amêijoa (a fishstew of scabbard fish and small clams); Filetes de Peixe-espada preto fritos com arroz de tomate (Fried black scabbard fish fillets with tomato rice).

Aldeio do Meco restaurant Tropical do Meco fish espetadaRestaurante Aldeio do Meco ‘Tropical do Meco’ picanha

Our choice: Espetada Tamboril Camarao, € 12,50 and Picanha Carvao (Grilled Picanha, € 11,00) .

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made of chunks of beef or fish rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick with vegetables such as onions and bell peppers and left to grill over smouldering wood chips.

Picanha (meat from Brazil) is generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) is much better than a steak, meltin-in-your mouth !

Meco restaurant Tropical do Meco owners Sergio Nuno and mother

The restaurant service was really great, professional and friendly.

Tropical do Meco’ owners Hugo, Sergio (brothers) and their mother Teresa. Besides being a great restaurant, Tropical de Meco is also thé place for the Meco beachcrowd for late night cocktails and other drinks (try a caipinrinha!).

Restaurante Tropical do Medo kitchen

Restaurant ‘Tropical do Meco’

We also got invited to a tour of the kitchen: Teresa, Isabel, Gladys, Clarice and Niso.

Restaurant ‘Tropical Meco’ Meco wine Montado and liqueur Moscatel Roxo

Restaurant ‘Tropical do Meco’

To accompany our food we enjoyed a bottle of Montado white wine from the Alentejo region (€ 5,50), a superb choice! While drinking our coffees a glass of a delicious liqueur was offered by the restaurant: ‘Moscatel Roxo’, a liqueurous wine from the Setúbal Peninsula.

Restaurant ‘Tropical do Meco’, Rua do Comércio 28, Aldeia do Meco, Sesimbra, Setúbal                             Facebook. Closed Tuesday.

Sightseeing Lisbon: eco friendly RedTour segways, 2 and 4 seat buggies or electric bicycles

Eco transport is new and available to tourists who visit Lisbon. The vehicles are equipped with a talking GPS guide, which provides directions and acts as your tour guide.

Buggies and segways Praca do Commercio

Praça do Comércio Lisbon, RedTour instructors meeting point. RedTour offers tours in Lisboa’s historical neighborhoods on electric vehicles: segways, 2 and 4 seat buggies and electric bicycles.

LisbonTourists with segway steps near Casa dos Bicos

Tourists are making pictures of tourists on Segway steps near Casa dos Bicos, 9 R. Afonso de Albuquerque Lisbon.

Lisbon police on segway steps

Be prepared to become a tourist attraction by yourself, like Portuguese policemen, Lisbon 2008.

Lisbon Buggies Praca do Comercio 2

Praça do Comércio Lisbon. RedTour operates everyday, from 09:00 to 19:00 (April-October) 09:00 to 17:00 (November-March), except Holidays. Meeting point Praça do Comércio /Terreiro do Paço or Largo dos Stephens (near Rua das Flores nº12). For reservations and further information call 00351 21 346 6259 or mail: info@redtourgps.com. Prices start from 6€ per hour, depending on the chosen vehicle. http://www.redtourgps.com/

Lisbon Red Tour car Mouraria

Lisbon Walker: guided walks through historical Lisbon

Lisbon has steadily built up an image of one of the world’s most interesting cities to visit. Its stunning location and historic significance is generously complemented by remarkable aesthetics, making it stand out as one of the few capital cities still human in pace and in scale.

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To discover Lisbon in the company of friendly and knowledgeable tour guides is the whole point of Lisbon Walker, overtaking the limitations of guidebooks to unveil the real personality of this unique location. All walking tours are in English.

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If you want to join one of the tour guides for a walk through Lisbon, just choose one of the historical tours on the Lisbon Walker Website and all you need to do is show up at the meeting point near Praça do Comércio, according to the timetable of the walks. Regular walking tour ticket (2008) – €15.00 per person/tour. Under 26, over 65, holders of Lisboa Card or valid tickets from TAP, CP or Sightseeing tours: €10.00 per person/tour. Children under 12 free tour. Each walk takes between 2 and 3 hours.

Lisbon Walker Fish Market

Fish Market

Lisbon Walker Bairro Alto

Bairro Alto

Lisbon walker Carmo Square

Square (Praça) do Carmo

Lisbon Walker Alfama

Alfama