Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado museum & Amália Rodrigues, queen of fado

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

Ginja Cafe in area Mouraria

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Amália Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Tasty & cheap: restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Lisbon & Garden Cerca da Graça city views

Not trendy or chic, but very tasty and cheap: typical Portuguese food in Mouraria, historic area of Lisbon, close to a new park with wonderful old town city views. Easy to reach from square Praça Martim Moniz (tram 28). Closed on Sundays.

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Mouraria Lisbon, owners & daughter Ilda

Away from tourist areas in Lisbon you can find good and cheap restaurants, like restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ (Custódio ‘s Corner) in historic area Mouraria: tasty Portuguese food for a very good price: around 5-7 euro pp  😉

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Mouraria Lisbon: good and cheap Portuguese food

Our bill: bife da casa 7.00 € (Portuguese fried beef with an egg on top of the meat, rice, or fried potatoes and salad), polvo (octopus): 5.00 €, carafe of house wine 0.50 l (vinho da casa): 1.40 €, bottle of water (agua): 0.85 €, dessert (sobremesa): maçã assada (roasted apple) 1.50  €, 2 coffee: 1.20  €, licor Beirão  (Portuguese liqueur) : 0,75  €

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Lisbon: polvo & batata cozida (octopus & potatoes) 5.00 €

Very popular: bitoque (Portuguese steak)

The Portuguese steak, bife, is a slice of fried beef served in a wine-based sauce with fried potatoes, rice, or salad.
Bitoque (toque means touch), comes from the idea that the meat only ‘touches’ the grill twice, meaning that it does not grill for too long before being served, resulting in a rare to medium-rare cut of meat. A fried egg is placed on top of the meat.

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’  area Mouraria Lisbon: tasty and cheap Portuguese food

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho’ do Custódio
Calçada Do Monte 3
Mouraria Lisbon
Tel.: (00351) 218860826, no WiFi

About 10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 square Martim Moniz

More about  ‘eléctrico 28′. This legendary tram is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town.

Mouraria Lisbon O Cantinho restaurant 2011 Arjen

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’  area Mouraria Lisbon: very tasty and cheap Portuguese food

Eat & drink like a local

Although this restaurant is quite close to the touristy areas of Lisbon, this is a local place that serves typical Portuguese food. You are very welcome, but the owners do not speak English.

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’  area Mouraria Lisbon & roasted apple 1.50 €

Historical area Mouraria & history

Historical area Mouraria exists more than 900 years, together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value. The former Moorish quarter is a muddle of very narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon, wonderful views & the Saint George castle

Nearby garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça & wonderful old town city views

The new garden, with an area of ​​1.7 hectares, was inaugurated on 17 June 2015. It is the largest green space for public access to historic districts of Lisbon, the connection between the neighborhoods of Graça and Mouraria, opened to the public.

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon & wonderful city views

Kiosk & childeren’s playground

According to the Lisbon Municipality, the project implemented on site included the planting of about 180 trees and shrubs. It was closed to the public for centuries.
There are three viewpoints, a picnic park, an orchard, a playground for children and a kiosk with a terrace. They serve soups, sandwiches and homemade cakes. ​

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon, kiosk & beer: 1 euro 🙂

Jardim da Cerca da Graça
Calçada do Monte 46,
Graça, Lisbon
Opening hours: 10:00 to 22:00 (also on Sundays)
near children’s play ground, Wifi available

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon & wonderfull city views

More pictures

‘Bike A Wish’ rental (E)-bike shop Mouraria Lisbon: top biking expercience & owners Ana & Rui

Lisbon becomes more and more attractive for tourists! The nearby Atlantic beaches and fairytale palaces (like in Sintra ) are famous attractions, also easy to reach by (e)-bike.

‘Bike A Wish’ store Lisbon: owner Rui Gomes & trainee Diego Sarasola (18 year old Erasmus student from Spain) Mouraria Lisbon, near square  Praça Martim Moniz (background)

Eco-friendly e-bike & breathtaking views

If you visit Lisbon during a few days (the city of seven hills or in Portuguese ‘a cidade das sete colinas), an e-bike is a great way to explore the city and to discover Lisbon’s breathtaking views.

Lisbon ‘Bike A Wish’ store, owner Ana Nascimento & amazing Lisbon graffity wall design (the 25 April bridge, the Castle of Saint George above the city, the hills…). Artist: Diogo

More and more Lisbon is changing: impoverished old buildings and/or neighborhoods with a long history are to be restored. Creative young people start their own business, like Ana Nascimento and Rui Gomes recently did in historic  Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of the city.

Beautiful view old town Lisbon & river Tagus

‘Bike A Wish’ store in Lisbon: ‘A dream came true”

Owner ‘Bike A Wish’ store in Lisbon Rui Gomes: “Ana and myself started to think opening our own business about 2 years ago. Our passion for bicycles was crucial, when deciding which business to start.
We had already visited Amsterdam several times in the past, and it marked us, in such way, that in result, today we´re the proud owners of ‘Bike A Wish’ (also partners are Frederico and Joana from Vilamoura , Bike a Wish Algarve store)”.

Bike a Wish store Lisbon Mouraria Ana e Rui tandem

‘Bike a Wish’ store in historic area Mouraria Lisbon & owners Ana and Rui

Rui: “Ana (marketeer) and Joana (designer) were both unemployed and me and Frederico were working in a foreign bank, in Lisbon, and quit, in order to give 200% of ourselves to this project. So, I´m happy to say that, first of all, ‘Bike A Wish’ is based on friendship and trust!”

Bike A Wish’ store in Mouraria Lisbon & owner Rui Gomes. Rua das Fontainhas a São Lourenço 29, Martim Moniz

The location – historic  Mouraria Lisbon

Rui Gomes, owner: ‘ Mouraria is one of the most unique places we know. There´s a certain magic in it, the streets, the light (or the lack of it ), the religions, the mixture of people from all over the world, gathered in a peaceful combination.
The shop is located very central, close to square Martim Moniz ( 1st stop for the 28 tram) as well to the Castelo de S. Jorge ( Castle of Saint George, the most visited monument in Lisbon)”.

Lisbon, Mouraria, close to ‘Bike a Wish’ shop: a maze of narrow streets & beautiful light

My 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio is for rent in this area

‘Bike A Wish’ concept: Portuguese pure cycle-chic, extreme comfort & 2 models of e-bikes

Rui Gomes, owner: ‘Our bicycles were thought to give extreme comfort to the users. Soft, old fashioned seats and handles, will allow clients a top biking experience in our 7-hills capital.
Our concept is pure cycle-chic: all bicycles are a Portuguese product, produced by “ÓRBITA.

‘Bike A Wish’ store & extreme comfort: ‘California dream’, a soft old fashioned bike seat  🙂

E-Bikes: Lisbon becomes “flat” for your legs!
Rui Gomes: “the 2 models of e-bikes have an autonomy around 60kms (depending of individual biking experience), allowing visitors to enjoy Lisbon in a comfortable, fast and effortless way. Ride everywhere: Mouraria, Alfama, Bairro Alto, Riverside etc.  Our bike tours allow people to visit the capital’s highlights and explore alternative and picturesque routes. We recommend the West Lisbon Tour, by the river, heading Belém ”

Rui Gomes: “We provide a service with so many flexible options that will certainly suit all your travel plans.

We rent several types of bikes, from the classic ones to folding, tandems and electric bikes. They can be rented by the hour, half-day, day, week or month “.

Bike a Wish store Lisbon Mouraria 10 2

Lisbon ‘Bike A Wish’ store Mouraria, Square Martim Moniz

Bike A Wish website: prices & more possibilities, like a tandem bike or guided tours.

Rua das Fontainhas a São Lourenço 29, Martim Moniz, Lisbon

Phone (00351) 211329949, Facebook,

Lisboa@bikeawish.com . Business hours: Monday-Saturday 10:00am to 19:00pm GMT |Sundays on the call to deliver or booked tours. Free deliver at hotels in Lisbon.

Lisbon at Christmas time: X-mas kitsch, a giant tree & sexy X-mas lingerie

In December, thousands of colorful lights decorate Lisbon. Portuguese people love ‘the most wonderful time of the year’, celebrating Christmas with a lot of X-mas kitsch. Everywhere you look you see blinking neon lights, Christmas markets and decorated shops.

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Rua da Prata

Rua da Prata, in December…….

If you are a Christmas hater, maybe it’s a better idea to visit this fascinating city some other time of the year 😉

Movie Christmas decoration

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Theatre Dona Maria

National Theatre Teatro Nacional Doña Maria II.

Christmas time in Lisbon is similar to everywhere else in the world, except that the decorations has a higher kitsch factor.

Lisbon Christmas 2009 sexy window dressing

Rua da Palma,

lingerie shop close to one of my favorite restaurants in Lisbon, RAMIRO

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Hermes window dressing

HermesLargo do Chiado 9.

In Portugal people really love  Christmas window dressing with animals!

Lisbon Chirstmas window dressing 2009

Of course, children love it!

Feira da Ladra alternativa recycled Nespresso cups

Creative Christmas decoration 🙂

Christmas decoration made from recycled Nespresso caps

Lisbon December 2009 Christmas and baggers

A creative idea to make some money at Christmas time……

Lisbon Christmas 2009 united colours shrinked Benetton pullovers

Benetton shop Lisbon, window dressing,  Rua Garrett

The shrinked sweaters of  Benetton  😉

Lisbon Restaurant the Temptations of Goa Jesus Maria2

Restaurant  “Tentações (Temptations) de Goa”.

Tentações de Goa”, Rua S. Pedro Mártir, nº 23. Open for lunch from 12:00, dinner from 19:00 – 00:00. Closed on Sundays and Holidays. Vegetarian friendly.

Lisbon giant Christmas tree  Praça do Comércio 

NEW YEAR: on the night of December 31, Lisbon is one big street party! Live music and a fantastic fireworks display  at the famous square Praça do Comércio will be filled on the night of December 31st with concerts by Portuguese bands . Cultural agenda Lisbon

According to the Portuguese tradition, twelve wishes are made to the sound of the twelve bell tolls, toasting with champaign to the new year.

HAPPY NEW YEAR! FELIZ ANO NOVO!

Fado history Mouraria Lisbon: a passionate liaison & first Fado singer Maria Severa

Historic area Mouraria contains a tangled street layout just as in Alfama, which has remained since the times of the Moors.

Mouraria Historical Center typical lley

Mouraria, Lisbon, one of Lisbon’s oldest districts.

The Arabs withdrew into this quarter after Lisbon was conquered by the Portuguese – a ghetto for people of different faiths arose. In the 19th C. prostitution and fado, which at this time was considered to be indecent, brought the quarter a bad name.

Mouraria Lisbon: Escadinhas de São Cristóvão. How to get there

Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. The area is full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap (but good!) small restaurants.

Looking for a vacation stay in Lisbon? My Three bedroom apartment with sunny pátio (30 m2) in Mouraria – (short term rentals).

Mouraria historical center fado Rua da Severa


Largo da Severa’ Lisbon in area Mouraria.

Fado

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of fado music. The quarter is still today associated with fado: The ‘Casa de Severa’ at Largo da Severa 2 was the home of the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando, who died at age 26 on November 30, 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Famous performer of fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz.

Mouraria historical center fado plaque

(‘Mouraria, sculpture Berço do Fado‘, fado was born here)

Rua da Mouraria/ corner Rua do Capelão. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. But the scandal increased fado’s appeal, leading to the publication of its first sheet music.

Fado Maria Severa painting

Famous painting Maria da Severa, regarded as the first fado singer

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”.

Mouraria Historical Center house Maria Severa fado singer

Fadista Maria da Severa’s house

UPDATE 2014:

Maria da Severa’s house is beautifully remodeled, you can enjoy pure fado here and traditional Portuguese food

There is a plaque in Maria Severa’s memory and a stylized fado guitar can be seen on the newly surfaced road where she lived. The memory of the singer is also kept alive in the pub called “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) in the nearby Rua do Capelao , with a painting of her hanging on the wall.

Mouraria Fado Friends of Maria Severa

Cafe “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) Mouraria Lisbon

Rua do Capelao 32, owner senhor Antonio Correia Alves Pais

Walk with friends Ans and Loek in Mouraria: a sua saúde ! Picture: Loek Polack

More about this remarkable little bar.

Saint Anthony Lisbon party time in June: parades, sardines & Fado music

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center.

Lisbon Santo Antonio June garlands Mouraria

Mouraria

The main Saints’ days are for Santo Antonio (June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Program Festas de Lisboa’ (also in English)

All the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.

Lisbon Santo Antonio 2 women Alfama

Historic Alfama, in June 2008.

Santo Antonio festivities & Portuguese flags (EFC) football

Lisbon craziest night of the year in area Alfama, nearby Mouraria (YouTube)

Lisbon Santo Antonio June restaurant A Tasquinha

Restaurant ‘A Tasquinha’,

Largo Contador Mor, Castelo area, really good sardines!

Lisbon Santo Antonio June Fado Restaurante A Tasquinha area Castelo

Eating sardines while listening to the fado singers.

Fado came long after Saint Anthony, but its major theme is nostalgia and longing-for what is lost and for what has never been gained. Anthony fits right into this scene!

Lisbn June Santo Antonio Faso Alfama

Live fado music in Alfama

The streets are filled with the delicious (strong) smell of sardines being grilled. It’s not a good time for the sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

Lison Santo Antoinio June sardines

Sardines & Saint Anthony festivities belong together

On the night of June 12 you can enjoy the famous yearly Santo Antonio costume Parade. All the clubs and associations of Lisbons’ neighbourhoods descend on Avenida da Liberdade to compete for the best parade, music, costume and choreography.

Santo Antionio costume Parade Lisbon

More…..

Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) Mouraria 2 girls

Fado, knives & blood & artist Carlos Fernandez Mouraria Lisbon

Artist Carlos Fernandez was born and raised in Mouraria, a historic (old Moorish) down town area in Lisbon. Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 1

Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez

Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.

fado-maria-severa-cafe Mouraria painting

Legendary Fado singer Maria Severa

Maria Severa, the first Fadista , who died at age 26 in1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis, was born in this area. A very sad story! Famous performer of Fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ , was born near Mouraria , Rua Martim Faz. No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 2

Carlos Fernandez

Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.

Mouraria in June Santo Antonio guirlandes

Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts (castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra (litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 3 tram 28 electrico

‘Old tram 28’ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez

The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon 4

Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition Santo Antonio recycled plastic

Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material

The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!

Mouraria Lisbon old yellow tram santo antonio sardines

Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines.

Looking for a short time rental apartment in Lisbon? Please check the calendar of my Authentic apartment for rent in this 900 years old area of Lisbon

Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.

Carlos Fernandez artist Mouraria Lisbon exposition viewpoint Santa Luzia

Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building

An exposition was held in this beautiful small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).

If you are interested to see more of Carlos’ work (and prices), you can send him an email: fadonavalhasesangue@gmail.com

Carlos Fernandez artist exposition Santa Luzia Lisbon

Tourists are interested to see the exposition, Santa Luzia

Besides: Santa Luzia is a very popular and historical viewpoint (miradouro) in Lisbon, next to viewpoint Portas do Sol. Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus!

Lisbon’s craziest night June 12: true love, basil & street parties

The month of June is party time in Lisbon! One of Portugal’s most popular saints, Santo António (Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Fransiscan friar canised by the Catholic Church in record time, one year after his death (on June 13, 1232). On the eve of June 13th Lisbon (and in all of Portugal) turns into one big party, the craziest night of the year!

Lisbon Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 romantic manjerica2

Mouraria, June 12, 2009

Santo Antonio is also the matchmaker saint. A charming custom on the eve of June 12 is for young men to present a newly sproutet basil (manjerico), for a newly sprouted love) to the girls they hope to wed. A frilled and fluted tinsel-trimmed paper carnation of various colors blooms in each pot. Within the petals is a poem or message which indicates the young man’s passion. Often the flower is accompanied by a painted toy, a pretty fan, or some other trifle calculated to appeal to a maiden’s fancy.

Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo do Terreirinho dancing1

Largo do Terreirinho  Mouraria Lisbon

On the Eve of June 13 young girls try various methods of finding out whom they will wed. One favorite way is for a girl to fill her mouth with water and hold it until she hears a boy’s name mentioned. The name she hears is sure to be that of her future husband!

Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo do Terreirinho sardines 6

Largo do Terreirinho  Mouraria Lisbon

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center. The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Parades, feast, sardines, wine & live Fado music (2)

Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo do Terreirinho live music

Largo do Terreirinho Mouraria Lisbon

Live music, dancing and plenty of food and drinks like gaseous lemonade, wine, beer or sangria.

Lisbon Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo do Terreirinho sardines9

Largo do Terreirinho Mouraria Lisbon

Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June in Portugal, high season for this delicious silvery fish. They were already eaten in the XV Century and grilled outdoors, due to the strong aroma that they free when roasting.

Lisbon Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo do Terreirinho students3

Largo do Terreirinho Mouraria Lisbon

Party time, also for students! Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Lisbon

Lisbon Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo macho students

Largo do Terreirinho Mouraria Lisbon

The streets are filled with the delicious smell (and the smoke!) of sardines being grilled. After a couple of beers some students show the girls that boys are created with very strong muscles…..whow! 25 push ups!

Lisbon Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo do Terreirinho bar restaurant Anos 60 1

Largo do Terreirinho Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant ‘Anos 60’ (the sixties)

Unique bar and restaurant  ‘Anos 60’ has been established in the nineties in this neighborhood  More…….

Santo Antonio church Largo Santo Antonio a Sé Alfama.

Santo António was born in 1195 in Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood Alfama, where the small church of Santo António da Sé now stands. Young people write letters asking him to furnish sweethearts. These epistles are dropped into a box in the church. When love affairs prosper and suitable mates are found, the box receives thank offerings from the grateful lovers. Mass marriages known as “St. Anthony’s Weddings” are held during the mid-June St. Anthony’s Day celebrations.

More information  ‘Festas de Lisboa’ (visit Lisboa 2014)

Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 5 tram sardines

Largo do Terreirinho Mouraria Lisbon

In June you can enjoy musicians singing fado music in the old trams, some are decorated with sardines…

Thanks to Dorothy Gladys Spicer

Hair saloon Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo in historical area Mouraria Lisbon & Antonia

Mouraria, one of the oldest, historical areas in Lisbon, is an intriguing earthy place. Nowadays it’s a melting pot: there are the people with their origin from the once Portuguese colonies, especially from Angola, Cape Verde and Guinea-Bissau, São Tomé and Príncipe Islands, but also from other African countries; the Indian and the Chinese, the biggest representatives of Asia. There’s lots of small shops: typical Portuguese, Indian and a lot of Chinese.

Antonia in front of the saloon Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo Centro Comercial Mouraria Lisbon

Antonia is my favorite hairstylist in Lisbon and she always makes me very happy 😉

Antonia hairdresser Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo Centro Comercial Mouraria Lisbon

In the Mouraria shopping centre, you’ll find African hairdressers, Indian and Chinese food stores and all manner of Brazilian kitsch and knock-off gold in between.

Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo

Antonia worked in Tomé Costa’s AfroLuso hair saloon, now it does not exist anymore. Happily for me Antonia works nearby in the neighbourhood in a saloon called Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo

Tomé Costa 2 years ago:” We started a hair saloon in 1998 in a very small place. About 2 years  ago we opened our new saloon. Among our clients are tourists, but also lots of people who live in this neighborhood. We are very appy with this place”. ‘”Our parents moved to Portugal, we are born here, coming from the São Tomé and Príncipe Islands , a former Portuguese colony located near the northwestern coast of Gabon”. (The islands achieved independence in 1975).”

Tomé Costa African hairdresser Mouraria14

Ladies, gentlemen and children haircuts (from 5-8,50 euro), colouring (from 15 euro), manicure, pedicure and make-up (Kerli products) ; or maybe you prefer an old-fashioned barbershop-shave? (3,50)

Tomé Costa Afro hairdresser Calcada do Mouraria Lisbon5

The atmosphere in the saloon is very warm and welcoming, the staff is super friendly. While waiting for clients these two nice hairsylists enjoy the music….

Tomé Costa Afro Luso hairdresser Calcada da Mouraria Lisbon 9

Ankls Leima Sacramento Neto

The saloon is open from Monday to Saturday 09:00 – 19:00, Sundays and Holidays from 10:00 – 17:00.

Phone number Antonia: 00351 964845367

Antonia extentions

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Bar ‘ANOS 60’ in area Mouraria Lisbon: the sixties & owner Fernando Casanova

UPDATE November 2016: bar ‘ANOS 60’ is closed


Mouraria Lisbon ANOS 60 July 2014 trendy bar

Young people from the US visiting Lisbon, bar ANOS 60 historic area Mouraria Lisbon, July 2014

History BAR ANOS 60 Mouraria (written in 2008)

This unique bar and top-class restaurant has been established in the nineties in the  historic Mouraria neighbourhood and is located at Largo do Terreirinho. It is also one of the best places to talk politics (also in English) and to listen to live music (Fado/Brasilian a.o.). The owner, senhor Fernando Casanova, chose the area of Mouraria because of the historic nature of the neighborhood.

Anos 60 Bar in Mouraria live music

Bar/restaurant ‘ANOS 60’ in Mouraria Lisbon

Politicians, journalists and many local celebrities meet up in ‘Anos 60’ to discuss politics, dine and enjoy the live Brazilian and Portuguese music. Mariza, the internationally well-known fado singer started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times in ‘ANOS 60’.

Lisbon Bar Anos 60 Mouraria Che Guevara

Bar/restaurant ‘ANOS 60’ in Mouraria Lisbon

Che Guevara . ‘Anos 60′ means ‘the sixties’. The name was chosen because of the rough political times in the sixties in Portugal, when the Portuguese people suffered under the corrupt dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, president of the Council of Ministers of Portugal for 36 years, from 1932 to 1968, and founder of the Estado Novo (New Regime).

On April 25, 1974, the Estado Novo finally fell with the Carnation Revolution.

Lisbon Mouraria Bar Anos 60 live music

Bar/restaurant ‘ANOS 60’ in Mouraria Lisbon

ANOS 60 owner Fernando Casanova was, as a journalist, part of the intellectual opposition and in his bar still many discussion about the era of the revolution take place. Fernando contributed for 2 years to the political newspaper “Aqui” which was published during the period of the revolution. The Club de Jornalistas’ in Lapa, which now has 700 members, has a strong connection to the bar.

Anos 60-Fernando-Casanova-Lisbon-Mouraria

Fernando Casanova , owner of bar/restaurant ‘ANOS 60’ in Mouraria Lisbon

The clock in ‘ANOS 60’ stands still at 04:10. Stories go round that this was the time that the Carnation Revolution started… But according to Fernando, it has another reason. It has to do with the official closing time: 04:00. In the weekends the bar usually closes later. After dancing the night away you walk out onto the street at 07:00, but the clock still indicates 04:10!

Anos 60-Lisbon-Mouraria-clock

Bar/restaurant ‘ANOS 60’ in Mouraria Lisbon

Street parties in June

In the month of June, festivities take place all over Portugal to celebrate three popular Saints – Santo António, São João and São Pedro.

The traditional neighborhoods Mouraria and Alfama are decorated in many colours and all the people are dancing in the streets and having barbeques, grilling sardinhas (sardines).

Lisbon Santo Antonio Mouraria june 09 Largo bar Anos 60 2

Bar/restaurant ‘ANOS 60’ in Mouraria Lisbon in June: dinner outside

Bar ANOS 60 (closed in 2016)
Largo do Terreirinho 21, 1170 Lisbon.

More about  area Mouraria Lisbon (2020)