Famous fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon & Maria Severa, femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music! Good fado has its home in historical areas  Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria.

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities)

Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), street entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 21:00

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’ in wintertime, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Terrace fado restaurant Maria da Mouraria. Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Very quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter.

After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver), bacalhau (cod fish), bife, and 2 bottles of red wine.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-) 😉

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon

Famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho, the owner of restaurant Maria da Mouraria, is the brother of Camané , famous Portuguese fado singer & songwriter.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

No creditcards, cash only

Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz. Facebook (reservations)

Lisbon LX FACTORY: creative cultural area, restaurants & Sunday hippie chic market

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon: restaurants in summertime & Sunday market

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history.

YouTube      More information

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

November 11, 2019. Margriet de Vrieze, restaurant/cafe O LOTE

Every Sunday an open air LX market is held (from 11.00 – 19:00), selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube Sunday LX market  Facebook

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon & restaurant  A Praça

Several good restaurants & affordable prices

Lively, exciting cultural area full of art studios, fashion , bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open. LX factory is a cool hangout zone 🙂

More about shops

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. ‘read  slowly’, YouTube) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook
 

 

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon: Carmo church ruins & lounging

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado in Lisbon can be found at a surprising location: behind the ruins of convent Convento do Carmo

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Graça district

Two historical monuments of Lisbon

The terraces around the Carmo church are a bit hidden in the center of Lisbon, between two historical monuments : convent Convento do Carmo and  Santa Justa Elevator, both very popular tourist attractions.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & Carmo church

10 minutes walk from here there’s TOPO rooftop restaurant & open air bar, located on the 6th floor of square Martim Moniz Shopping Center, with spectacular views of the  castle of Saint George ( São Jorge) and a part of the city.

Rooftop bar & restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon

TOPO Chiado esplanade with bar,  and a restaurant on a higher level where dishes are served, like snacks, salades and burgers.

Rooftop bar restaurant TOPO Chiado Lisbon & view Santa Justa Lift

Carmo Convent Lisbon & horror of earthquake in 1755

Carmo Convent is an old gothic cathedral that was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and fire that destroyed much of Lisbon. The ruins represent a memory of that tragedy.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture: Georges Jansoone, Wikipedia

Archaeological museum 

An archaeological museum is housed in the old altar and has an eclectic collection of treasures that include eerie South American mummies.

YouTube

Ruins of the Carmo church Lisbon. Picture:  Wikipedia

From 1 – 30 June 2018: The ruins of the Convento do Carmo will be the screen for a video mapping that will explore more than 600 years of Lisbon’s and Portugal’s history (also in English). MORE…

Article LisbonLux: more info and pictures…

Tickets & visitor information

Square Largo do Carmo Lisbon. More……

Across from the convent entrance is a monumental drinking fountain (late 1700s).

Bar restaurant TOPO Chiado
OPEN: every day from 12:00 – 24:00
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TOPO Chiado Lisbon & friend Margarethe de Vrieze Sept. 2017
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National palace Queluz Lisbon: sexual orgies, juicy stories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil.

Information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire & smallpox

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria‘s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia

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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Worth a visit!

Short term rentals: my 3 bedroom apartment in Lisbon with lovely patio (100 m2):  5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: 

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

Restaurants former Palace Chiado Lisbon (1781): 7 chefs, 7 dining areas & history

The atmosphere is great in this former palace in the heart of Lisbon. Once the recidence of a nobleman who loved to party, now everyone is welcome to admire the beautifully restored rooms, while enjoying fine food and drinks.

Welcome! Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & very nice waiter Aélio

History: Barão (Baron) Joaquim Pedro Quintela, 1st Conde de Farrobo

This elegant palace in Chiado (name of a square and its surrounding area) in Lisbon was built in 1781, where the aristocracy and bons vivants danced, enjoyed lavish banquets and admired new works of art. Baron de Quintela was born in this palace.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon (built in 1781 & a mobile phone….. )

Baron de Quintela: excesses and inordinate feasting

The future 2nd Baron of Quintela and 1st Conde of Farrobo was born in this palace, on 11 December 1801. Despite his importance in political, social and cultural life in Portugal at the time, he will always be remembered for his excesses and revels.

And intrinsically associated with the palace is the famous Portuguese expression ‘farrobodó‘ (from ‘forrobodó’ which literally means having a great party 😉 ).

More about the palace and its history…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016

Renewed Palácio Chiado opened February 2016: fine dining & entertainment

The former home of Baron Quintela opened to the public under the name Palácio Chiado.
The restoration works took more then one and a half year. The historic rooms nowadays host alternatives for fine dining and other forms of entertainment for Lisbon residents and visitors. The palace will also have a varied cultural program.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, 1st floor April 2016

7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts

On the ground floor is a bar, with tables for dining, but simply chill out with a drink is also a possibility. There are seven chefs and their 7 gastronimical concepts, from sushi to burgers, and about 250 seats. The idea is to grab the plate and sit where you want.

It feels a bit like Time Out Ribeira Market in a more sophisticated setting.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & tea for 2 and a chocolate cake

Tea bags & small wooden cake forks

We decided to order tea for two (1 st floor) and a small chocolate cake to share, because we just had lunch.

In this elegant palace with grandeur and beautiful frescoed ceilings we expected an elegant soft pastel designed tea set and gold colored spoons, but not just teabags to dip in our cups and small wooden cake forks to eat the cake?  😉 😉

Chá (tea) for 2 persons: 4 euro. Bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) 2.50 euro

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & one of the beautiful frescoed ceilings

Restaurants:

The historic salons of the Palácio Chiado now host seven prestigious fine dining area’s.

Traditional Portuguese snacks (petiscos), cocktails & sparkling wines with fish and shellfish, hamburgers, steaks, light and healthy meals, seafood and sushi.

More details about the restaurants

palace-chiado-lisbon-tapas-erika-reusens

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & Erika Reusens

Palácio Chiado Lisbon: really worth a visit!
Rua do Alecrim, 70 – Lisbon
Wonderful Website (also in Enlish)   FACEBOOK
Sunday till Wednesday from 12:00 – 24:00
Thursday till Saturday from 12:00- 02:00

Video inauguration of the Chiado Palace with hundreds of guests

Despite occupying a considerable area of Rua do Alecrim, the Palace has only one entry, at number 70.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon

Baron Quintela Room for private events (your own aristocratic party? 😉  )

Seating 16 to 25, Quintela Room can be hired for private events, for a discreet meal, a dinner with friends, or professional events. More…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & dining area

Cafe/bakery ‘Fábrica Lisbon’: perfect croissants & ceramic penis tradition

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ is responsible for the delicious smell 🙂 wafting through the street Rua da Madalena in Lisbon..

Bakery (padaria)/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : delicious handmade rustic bread and croissants

‘Fábrica Lisboa’  has its own production, which means that croissants, bread, pies or cakes are constantly coming out of the oven in front of the customers. Traditional portuguese soups, sandwiches made with rustic bread, pies and fresh salads are also served.

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Funny Portuguese vintage decoration

When you pass through Rua da Madalena and you hear a bell it’s fresh bread/croissant time!
But this space really deserves a longer visit to appreciate the vintage decoration with delightful and funny details, like old scales, bottles, bread boxes, old phones or pornographic cassettes. Even the coffee machine is vintage…… !

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & my favorite croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa)

Among the things of the past, take your time to enjoy a ‘late breakfast’ or a snack with salad or scrambled eggs with ham, accompanied by rustic bread.

Scrambled eggs with bread & presunto (ham) 6.90 euro

Croissants ‘old nunnery style’ 

There«s more than 10 different croissants, from simple (plain, € 1.20), old nunnery style (with sweet-soft egg cream, € 1.20, created by nuns who lived in monasteries with a lot of chickens in the garden... 🙂  to extra large: 2 fried eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, salad and chips ( € 7.00).

My favorite: a sweet croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa) € 2,20.

Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena Margriet Jan 16

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : friend Margriet de Vrieze loves this place. Tea (chá) € 1.75

Cartoon character Zé Povinho – symbol of the Portuguese working-class

The cartoon character Zé Povinho was created by satirist and designer Bordalo Pinheiro in 1875, a symbol of the Portuguese working-class people, as a caricature for the protest against the politics and the high taxes for the simple population. Still nowadays every child in Portugal knows Zé Povinho. ‘Zé’ (José or Joseph in English),  ‘Povinho’ is a diminutive for ‘Povo’, which means ‘people’.

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’

Zé Povinho, symbol of the Portuguese working-class people

Ceramics from Caldas da Rainha

Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon, is well known for its wonderful ceramic pottery with a long tradition. The output includes large decorative pieces, crockery, tableware and decorative objects, famous all over the world for its unique (and sometimes funny) designs. Where to find in Lisbon:  More…

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Wifi cornervintage decoration

Phallus ceramics, a Portuguese tradition

Why is there a ceramic penis between the vintage decoration? Some centers of ceramic production in Caldas da Rainha has a tradition of phalluses and amusing phallic symbols. The tradition is said to have started in Caldas when King Dom Luis, who ruled from 1861 to 1889, suggested that local potters create something more interesting 😉  Penis-shaped ceramics

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Penis-shaped ceramics are for sale in Portugal in all shapes and sizes: f.i. mugs, cups, and plates, or decorative pieces.

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

‘Fábrica Lisboa’
Rua da Madalena 121 (Baixa) Lisbon, Portugal
Free WiFi.  Facebook
Open from 08:00 – 20:00; closed on Monday
Weekend: 09:00 – 19:00.

Movie (impressions) on VIMEO

Bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon: Ginja liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

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Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and Lisbon’s first fado singer
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
June 2019, Artur Domingos & Gabrielle
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Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
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Lisbon: how to recognize good cheap Portuguese restaurants & José & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron.

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’ & owner José Maria

CLOSED. UPDATE March 2019: due to eviction (despejos) after 34 years ( !!) this restaurant is closed.  What a shame 🙁 🙁 

Vimeo: Evictions in Lisbon 

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’:

5 minutes walk (also open on Sundays): restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’, good food, local prices :-).  Rua Marquês Ponte de Lima 5, Mouraria, Lisbon

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria, shops fado, bars & restaurants

Owner José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice, delicious!

The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

Local priced restaurants and useful information about area Mouraria

February 2019: a city trip to Lisbon with 3 generations of the Kollmer family from the Netherlands  🙂 🙂

Good quality & local prices

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon!!  🙂  🙂

If you prefer meat, and don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca. 7 euro).

Typical Portugues & very popular: grilled sardines

Bill for 3 persons: around 30 euro

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Restaurant owner Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

January 2016: what a wonderful surprise! 🙂 Erika, Loek, Luc & Ans

Football

In Portugal there’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda November 2018

Unrequested starter dishes

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!).  NOT in this place 🙂

Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Roasted apple (sobremesa: dessert)

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00. Dinner from 19:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto 

Nun’s bellies & bacon from heaven  😉

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela in the north.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay in cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 20 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point starting point legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

Discover trendy historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant Canto Saudade Lisbon: Portuguese Cuisine, wonderful terrace & owner Marcus Madeira

Restaurant Canto Saudade in Lisbon is located close to the curious Casa dos Bicos (built in 1523) and the river Tagus. Great traditional Portuguese cuisine and a lovely authentic decor 🙂

Restaurant Canto Saudade, Campo das Cebolas Lisbon, March 2018

Marcus Madeira (30), owner of Restaurant Canto Saudade:

“We started as a shop with traditional Portuguese products, but step by step we turned into a restaurant, me and my mom, Fátima Mariano (59). It has been a tough journey but we are grateful”.

Restaurant Canto Saudade: owner Marcus Madeira & Nídia Silva

Owner Marcus Madeira: “We have a small, cosy family business; our goal is to provide a memorial time in our Canto Saudade (litt. ‘nostalgic corner’), serving authentic Portuguese food and good wines in a relaxed atmosphere”.

Restaurant Canto Saudade,  Codfish Brás style (€ 9,95) & friend Rob Plews

Owner Marcus Madeira: “Our specialities are clams ‘Bulhão Pato’ style, firegrilled chorizo, octopus salad, alheira, fish cataplana, octopus lagareiro style, codfish saudade style and seafood rice”. Menu card    

Facebook pictures & mouthwatering dishes

Restaurant Canto Saudade & camarão a guilho (garlic shrimp) € 12,50

A traditional Portuguese delicacy: clams

One of Portugal’s most typical (and one of the tastiest!) dishes is clams Bulhão Pato style : a clams recipe named after a 19th-century Portuguese poet. He is  known from a dish that he did not create, but just spreading the word about it!

Restaurant Canto Saudade Lisbon & clams Bulhão Pato style

Poet Bulhão Pato became more famous because of his clams recipe than his poetry 😉

History Portugal & clams: YouTube

Restaurant Canto Saudade: owner Marcus Madeira & some kitchen staff

Campo das Cebolas Lisbon (litt. Field of Onions): a lovely area

The Campo das Cebolas, located near the Tagus river, is one of the most historical and beloved areas of Lisbon. The name comes from a vegetables market that took place on this site in the 1400s.

VIDEO about the renewed area & history

Restaurant Canto Saudade Lisbon & authentic Portuguese decor

Popular area in Lisbon

Picturesque buildings together with the lately created large open space (2017) ending at the waterfront avenue make this area more popular than ever, particularly to tourists.

Restaurant Canto Saudade & new open space near the river Tagus

History : Casa dos Bicos (House of the Spikes)

This square is home to Casa dos Bicos , built in 1523 and one of the few buildings that survived the 1755 earthquake.

Campo das Cebolos (Field of Onions)
An emblematic space of the city of Lisbon where the past and the future come together VIDEO

Casa dos Bicos (house of Spikes), Campo das Cebolas Lisbon in 2012

The house has a curious façade of spikes, influenced by Italian Renaissance palaces and Portuguese  Manueline styles.

More…..Wikipedia

Restaurant Canto Saudade Lisbonauthentic Portuguese decor

VW Vintage Van  & Tours around Lisbon

Marcus Madeira : “We have 2 vintage VW Vans. It’s possible to book a tour with us (or a customized tour) around Lisbon, like f.i. Sintra, Cascais, Guincho, Setúbal (Parque nacional da Serra da Arrábida) with a car called ‘Isabelinha Constantina’ 🙂 .

Capacity for 8 persons + a driver “. (From 250 euro a day,  please ask/call owner Marcus Madeira for more information).

VW Vintage car ‘Isabelinha Constantina‘. Picture: Nuno Rato

Marcus Madeira: “During the tour we talk about our daily portuguese habits, about Portugal, we play FADO music on our vintage radio as well as traditional portuguese music; wine tastings, cheese, liquors, and we take some pictures :)”

Restaurant Canto Saudade & International women’s day 2018

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 6, Campo das Cebolas – Lisbon

Phone: +351 21303235  FACEBOOK  info@cantosaudade.com

Open daily from 11:00 – 01:00. Closed: Monday. Very nice staff 🙂 . Metro:  Terreiro do Paço blue line (linha azul)

Website VW Vintage Van Tours  FACEBOOK

Restaurant Canto Saudade: typical Portuguese & beautiful 🙂

 

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: tram 28, dancing & aphrodisiacs

Update January 2019: unfortunlately the streetfood kiosks disappeared on this square 🙁  , soon plans will be announced about the ‘new look’.

At this square there’s the starting point of the legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction.

Square Martim Moniz : Kiosk ‘A Preta’ (‘The Black’) : João (Johnny) and his sister Luiza Gabriel

Kiosk with a tropical touch. João and his sister Luiza (DJ Lady G Brown) serve super good hamburgers, delicious pinchos (meat on a stick), salades and fresh juices. They were born in Angola, a former colony of Portugal (from the 16th century to 1975). They moved to Lisbon in 1982. Johnny worked a few years in Amsterdam and he speaks a little Dutch (‘lekker!‘)

Kiosk ‘A Preta’ Square Martim Moniz Lisbon; hamburger with salad and potatoes € 5,50. Delicious! Salad: 4.00 €

Square Martim Moniz, located in the most multicultural area in Lisbon is nowadays a place where you can enjoy a light (also vega) meal in the sun: a meeting of cultures that will host delicacies from the four corners of the world, in the weekends there’s a market selling biological products, shops, music and shows.

Castle of Saint Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge ) overlooking square Martim Moniz Lisbon

Here you can eat samosas, or a pizza, or ice cream, or a hamburger, or a vegetarian snack … drinking a cold beer, listen to live music or a DJ and enjoy the warm summer evenings. The Castelo de São Jorge overlooking the historical centre of Lisbon, and the entire square has a view of the castle.

Square Martim Moniz : vegetarian kiosk Erva & Carla Contige

Kiosk with green cuisine: vegetarian, vegan and macrobiotic specialities, made with fresh ingredients and prepared with love by Carla Contige…. You must try the salad, full of fruit, greens and seeds, or a Vega burger (€ 5).

Square Martim Moniz : kiosk mr. Leader (BBQMM)

Kiosk with a cook of Chinese origin. I tasted his creation of an empadão, a mix of minced meat and mashed potatoes.

Empadão (pie) mix: minced meat with mashed potatoes, linguiça (smoke cured pork sausage seasoned with garlic and paprika), bacon an dried chili peppers

Delicious! ( 3.50 euro)

Square Martim Moniz Mercado de Fusão

Aphrodisiacs and liqueurs like Licor de Merda (made of shit)  😉

The Liqor de Merda was born in 1974. It is a Portuguese alcoholic drink and the literal translation is “Shit liqueur”. Portugal went through a turbulent period marked by the struggle bewteen left and right. It was made to “honour” the government and, despite being a milk licor, it is said that it’s made with the best different types of shit.

Square Martim Moniz Kiosk ‘A Preta’ : here you can enjoy sun and music (DJ is Rycardo)

YouTube Square Martim Moniz Lisbon

On Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ ( Soul, Funcky, Reggae, World Music, Jazz and more..) to liven up the square and to get you in the mood for the weekend.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: people are invited to dance for ONE BILLION RISING

There’s also a stage on the square, always ready to host concerts, lectures, workshops and much more….. A Fun Track is also available in one of the kiosks, which rents pedal karts, streetsurfing boards, scooters, skateboards and roller skates for both children and adults.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, Christmas period

Every day the kiosks are open from 10:00 till midnightOn Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ . Every Saturday and Sunday a Fusion market is held here, Mercado de fusão (10h às 19h), bringing together the Martim Moniz retail trade with famous shops in the city.

Near this square is the starting point of the legendary tram 28.

Knight & hero Martim Moniz

Stylized depiction in the square Martim Moniz metro station

Hotel Mundal rooftop terrace Ans de Graaf Jan 16

Saint Jorge Castle Lisbon: view from rooftop terrace hotel Mundial square Martim Moniz & Ans de Graaf from Holland

History Saint Jorge Castle & hero Martim Moniz

Who was Martim Moniz? He was a hero! He sacrificed himself in 1147. According to the legend, Martim Moniz was a knight participating in the Christian invasion force, led by king Afonso I of Portugal. At one point in the siege of São Jorge Castle, he saw the Moors closing the castle doors. He led an attack on the doors, and sacrificed himself by lodging himself in the doorway, preventing the defenders from fully closing the door.

Rob Plews December 2012 Praca Martim Moniz kiosk A Preta

Friend Rob Plews: square Martim Moniz Lisbon 2016