Famous Cafe ‘A Brasileira’, Rua Garrett: bad service and inattentive staff
Elegant shopping street Rua Garrett, that leads from the Baixa to Chiado, is named after the author and poet Joao Almedia Garrett (1799-1854). The area is also an important cultural area, with several museums and theatres.
Rua Garett, June 2008. On the background cafe ‘A Brasileira’ terrace. You will see young locals here just socialising or window shopping.
The most famous street of Lisbon, that mixes traditional chic and modern commercial shops, is also beloved by tourists.
Cafe ‘A Brasileira’ (Rua Garrett 120) is famous for having had the enigmatic poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) among his customers. Pessoa still has his table in bronze on the terrace (the work of sculptor Lagoa Henriques). Even today this coffeehouse is popular with writers. The downstairs seating area is a favourite with locals for a set lunch of traditional Portuguese specialties. The cafe once was the setting for tertulías literárias (lively discussion groups) in which debate would often culminate in chair throwing, cup smashing and brawls.
‘A Brasileira’ (’The Brazilian woman’), opened in 1905 as a shop selling genuine Brazilian coffee. It was the first shop to sell the ‘bica’, a small cup of strong coffee, similar to espresso.
The interior of ’A Brasileira’ is grandiose: decorated in Art Deco style, with a green-and-gold entrance, mirrored walls, brass fittings, and a long oak bar.
However: bad service and inattentive staff (June 2008). It is a popular tourist destination, and prices are high.