Lisbon & autumn: the unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas) ‘quente e boas!’ (‘get’em hot!) & November 11 St Martin Day traditions
The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. ‘Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.
‘Hot and good, a dozen for € 2“.
Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.
Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon
Saint Martin Day, is celebrated on November 11.
It is called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer). The Portuguese celebrate it with jeropiga (a sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).
Rossio, Lisbon in December
On Saint Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire, where they roast chestnuts and drink água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent alcohol).
Chestnuts and jeropiga
Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.
Largo do Chiado, Lisbon
[...] And of course in wintertime, the unmistakeable smell of roasted chestnuts [...]