Bar ‘da Velha Senhora’ Lisbon: burlesque, revue & the day Cesária Évora died

If you like burlesque performances, glittering revue shows and cabaret a must-go place is bar “da Velha Senhora” (Old lady’s bar) in Lisbon! Video:

‘Hallooooooooooooooooooo!”  2 beautiful ladies invite you to enjoy the show

Bar da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

While eating traditional Portuguese snacks (“petiscos“) you can enjoy various artistic performances. This bar is in the same typical Portuguese 18th-century building as Pensão Amor” (a former ‘love’ guesthouse), with a wonderful unique décor . Also really worth a visit!

Stage Bar ”da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

Inside, almost everything complies with the burlesque theme and imagery of Lisbon in the early twentieth century. The building itself – a cultural and artistic project – witnesses the time that thirsty sailors docked in the harbor and spent their free time drinking booze and have fun with women.

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

Former Lisbon’s red light district

The stories of prostitutes and sailors are inseparable from Cais do Sodré, formerly known as Lisbon’s red light district with bars named after northern European capitals (like Copenhagen, or Roterdão, Rotterdam) to attract their sailors who stepped off their boats here.

But times have changed: nowaydays it is a great area to go out at night! Musicbox is a trendy hotspot for live bands and DJ’s, disco clubs Tokyo and Jamaica became two of the most loved alternative clubs in Lisbon.

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” & DJ Rycardo Lisbon, December 17, 2011

The day Cesária Évora died

I will never forget the day Cesária Évora died, December 17, 2011. Early in the evening we went to Bar da Velha Senhora. When DJ Rycardo started to play the famous and wonderful songs of Cesária, suddenly all the people in the bar started spontaneously clapping their hands and some began to cry … I still get goosebumps thinking about that day…!

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” & DJ Rycardo Lisbon: the day Cesária Évora died

A woman jumped on the table and started to dance…….   Amazing!

Popular singer Cesária Évora, “the Barefoot Diva’, has made Cape (Cabo) Verde famous all over the world. She generally performed in bare feet, as a sign of solidarity for the large number of women and children back home in the Cape Verdean Islands who cannot afford shoes.

Cesária Évora: ‘Miss Perfumado (youtube). More about former Portuguese colony Cape Verde (from 1456-1975)

Bar ”da Velha Senhora” Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

Rua Nova do Carvalho 38, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon, tel. (00351)351 213 468 479. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 6pm to 4am . FACEBOOK

Metro: Cais do Sodré. Facebook.com/bardavelhasenhora

Bistro Edelweiss Lisbon: Swiss cheese fondue, 70s retro & owners Marc and Sindi

Cheese fondue in Lisbon!? Yes! In area Príncipe Real  there´s bistro Edelweiss with flavors of the Swiss Alps in a warm retro decor, inspired by the ’70s. Swiss specialties such as cherry brandy cheese fondue are always on the menu and of course the famous Swiss chocolates.

Bistro Edelweiss Lisbon cheese fondue Swiss decor cow

Bistro Edelweiss in neighborhood Príncipe Real Lisbon & cow Greta

The cheese fondue (€ 25 for two people) is classic: bread or potatoes, dipped in a fondue made with various Swiss cheeses and a “secret ingredient” which is a Portuguese cheese. Of course accompanied by cherry brandy (schwarzwälder kirschwasser), lit. black forest cherry water…

Erika likes cheese fondue

Bistro Edelweiss in Lisbon: cheese fondue (€ 25  for two people)

They keep changing the menu, but some specialties are always available, like Scharzwälder Schinken (Black Forest ham) with cornichons and onions, Suure Mocke (a starter: beef braised in vinegar and cream sauce) and Bratwurst mit Zwiebelsauce und Rösti (Sausage with onion sauce and Rösti).

You can find the daily menu on their facebook page.

Bistro Edelweiss in Lisbon & very sympathetic owners Marc and Sindi

Marc discovered this space a few years ago, the perfect place for the restaurant he and Sindi (Swiss origin) had in mind to open. With a background in architecture, Marc, born in Canada but emigrated to Switzerland, designed the decoration of the bistro.

The retro furniture is remarkable and the space is filled with funny 70s details, like the television with a crackling fireplace and a cuckoo clock.

The famous song Edelweiss (Youtube) , written in 1959 😉

Bistro Edelweiss Lisbon

This Bistro recreates the ambience of the Swiss Alps (painted on the windows) in Lisbon. The atmosphere is a mix of 70s retro and a ski resort. Sindi studied at the Hotel School in Switzerland and worked in several hotels in the country.

Bistro Edelweiss Lisbon: starter salad with chicory and beetroot € 5.50

My friend Erika enjoyed the cheese fondue, I tried the onion soup € 4.00: very good! Bottle of fine white Portuguese wine € 14.00. The biological apple mousse dessert (sobremesa) is one of the specialties of Sindi, the chef who runs the kitchen and creates new menus regularly. Fish and vegetarian dishes are also on the menu and of course German beer.

Bistro Edelweiss Lisbon: retro furniture & map of Switzerland on the wall

Three years ago Marc and Sindi opened the HEIDI bar in the legendary neighborhood Bairro Alto in Lisbon. The bar is closed because now they want to devote themselves exclusively to their Bistro. More info about the song:(wikipedia) Edelweiss

Bistro Edelweiss Lisbon

Bistro Edelweiss Lisbon : facebook

Dinners only (from 18h to 24h).  Rua de São Marçal, 2, Lisbon. Phone 00351 21 346 5324.

Santa Apolónia, Lisbon’s International Train Station & Humberto Delgado

International trains arrive in Lisbon every day, mainly to Santa Apolónia Station and to the Gare do Oriente. Estação Santa Apolónia, opened on May 1st 1865, is the oldest railway terminus in Lisbon, situated in the city’s central part on the bank of the Tagus river in the historical district of Alfama.

Santa Apolonia Station Lisbon Alfama building

Santa Apolónia International Train/metro station Lisbon

The station is served by the national rail company CP (train timetables in English and online tickets, including the high-speed train Alfa Pendular) and operates different suburban, national- and international routes. The best thing to do is to reserve a ticket at least one day before your journey.  Alfa Pendular also connects the cities of Braga, Porto, Aveiro, Coimbra, Santarém, Albufeira and Faro, among others.

Lisbon Santa Apolonia train and metro station inside

Santa Apolónia International Train/metro station Lisbon

A taxi from this station shouldn’t cost more then € 5-10 into the city, luggage included. The taxidriver will charge you with for the luggage (if you have luggage that needs to be placed in the trunk of the car). The rates are 20% higher during nighttime, in the weekend and during holidays.

Santa Apolónia Station is a beautiful building. Inside you’ll find several small restaurants and shops.

Lisbon Santa Apolonia international train and metro Station train

Santa Apolónia International Train/metro station Lisbon

International destinations & central/northern Portugal

This station is Lisbon’s main departure point for international destinations and central/ northern Portugal. The other major railway hubs in Lisbon are Gare do Oriente, which is situated on the same track stretch 6,5 km northeast and Cais do Sodré (to Cascais and Estoril) , Rossio Train Station (runs to Sintra) and Entrecampos.

Santa Apolonia Station Salazar victims
 Humberto Delgado, General sem medo (the fearless general)
 In memory of Humberto Delgado, the fearless general

Mark of honour from the city of Lisbon to General Humberto Delgado and to all who fought for Portugal’s freedom during Salazar’s dictatorship (from 1932 to 1974).

Short tribute film (by Bruno de Almeida) to General Humberto Delgado in memory of his legendary arrival at Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia Station in 1958, where he was meet by Salazar‘s fascist police. How many people were killed is still a secret. The General and his Brazilian secretary, Arajaryr Moreiro de Campos, would be murdered on 13 February 1965, after being attracted to an ambush by the regime’s secret police (PIDE)

Lisbon Santa Apolonia Station metro

Santa Apolónia’s metro station

Santa Apolónia’s rail station is connected to the Lisbon Metro station of the same name (blue line, Linha Azul ).

Metropolitano de Lisboa, Lisbon Metro official page, webiste (also in English) including a map with a network diagram and explanation of the lines.

Lisbon metro station Praca do Comercio

Metro station Terreiro do Paço at Praça do Comércio near the Tagus River, opened in 2007. This square is one of the most beautiful in Europe! More and Lisboa Card info