Month: May 2009

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The strange history of National Theatre Doña Maria II Lisbon & backstage guided tours

Teatro Nacional Doña Maria II has a strange history, like a lot of historical buildings in Lisbon. It was built on the ruins of one of the city’s finest buildings, the Palácio dos Estaus, which had burned down and which had housed the court of the Holy Inquisition. The liberal revolution and the end of the civil war created a climate in Portugal that was conducive to the development of arts in general and the theater in particular.

National Theatre Dona Maria II Lisbon 1 Teatro Nacional

National Theatre D. Maria II Lisbon

In 1836, by order of Queen D. Maria II, Almeida Garrett (famous author and poet) was charged with creating a conservatoire for the dramatic arts. The site chosen for this colossal task was the finest in the city at Praça Dom Pedro IV, commemorates Portugal’s first liberal king. The square is usually simply referred to as Rossio (big square).

National Theatre Dona Maria II Rossio and wave pavement

National Theatre D. Maria II Lisbon

The theatre opened to the public on April 13 1846, the date of the anniversary of the queen it is named after, but the acoustics were poor and the theatre closed the very next day for improvements. It reopened several years later to notable success. In late November 1964, the theatre staged Shakespeare’ Macbeth. A strange superstition, or more appropiately a curse, hangs over theatres that perform this play: one week after the first show the whole building burned down except for its outer walls. It was reopened in 1978. Since then, countless plays, by the finest playwrights of the past and of today, have been performed and staged.

Rossio Lisbon Theatre National Dona Maria II and ginja cafe

National Theatre D. Maria II Lisbon

Today, Teatro D. Maria II is not merely a concert hall. Besides its majestic Garrett room, it also has a smaller room, while the great hall has been turned into a theatre/ studio, covering a whole world of activities that very often burst out from behind its venerable walls.

Theatre Dona Maria II Lisbon near Rossio Station

National Theatre D. Maria II Lisbon

On the other side of the theatre you’ll find the unique Rossio train- and metro station (Estação do Rossio)

National Theatre Dona Maria Rossio Lisbon hall

National Theatre D. Maria II Lisbon

You can discover the theater (or take the time to enjoy a good show).

From Monday to Friday 10:00 am to 13:00/ 15:00 to 17:00 there are guided tours, in several languages, to the backstage of the theater. A journey that reveals the secrets and stories of Teatro Nacional D. Maria II.  (website)

Lisbon National Theatre Dona Maria II view from cafe Garett Rossio Christmas

National Theatre D. Maria II Lisbon: view Rossio square

Christmas time. Café Garrett, beside the theatre’s foyer, one of the most perfectly located cafés in Lisbon, facing the lively Rossio Square

Lisbon cafe Garrett Theatre Dona Maria II facing Rossio

National Theatre D. Maria II Lisbon

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Famous tea/lunchroom Versailles Lisbon & surrounding areas

If you like to walk around outside of tourist areas go to Saldanha , the fashionable Avenidas Novas (a part of Lisbon built in the 1950s), with department stores, cinemas, museums, supermarkets and libraries.

Lisbon Versailles tearoom restaurant outside Avenida Republica

Avenida da República near Saldaña square. A must-do is to have breakfast or lunch in the wonderful old tea- and lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles (opened in 1922) which has it’s own bakery.

Saldana Lisbon statue Square Praça do Duque de Saldana

Praça Duque de Saldaña. Monument of the great liberal Marshal who gives the square its name. Designed by Thomaz Costa and Ventura Terra, unveiled in 1909. The base of the monument contains a bronze figure of victory. At Saldaña Square there’s the highly frequented cinema Monumental where many young Portuguese meet in the bar of the cinema, ‘Movies’ .

Saldana Restaurant Galeto Lisbon december 08

Famous restaurant Galeto, a classic spot. Avenida Da República, 14. Open from 07.30 am – 03.30 (!). Delicious food and quite cheap (dinner and snacks). Galeto (movie) is well known in Lisbon for its friendly and courteous service.

Lisbon market in Arroios fish

Market mercado de Arroios , fresh fish, flowers and fruit. Arroios is a very atmospheric working class neighborhood with great markets and very good prices in restaurants and shops.

Lisbon little shops Estefania neighborhoos

Estefania: a nice and very quiet area, with lots of typical Portuguese small business ‘mom and pop’ and food shops.

Lisbon cheap tradtional restaurants Estefania

Rua Ilha da Terceira, Estefania. To eat out, try the pastelerias (cheap small restaurants, great Portugese food). Not one tourist in sight…..Chiado, Baixia and Alfama are easily reached by public transport, and even at night a taxi isn’t more than 5 euros.

Lisbon Estefania Rua da Ilha Terceira restaurant owners

The bill? Grilled salmon 5,50 euro, soup 0,90. A glass of wine 0,75.

Lisbon Saldanha luxurous shopping center

Luxury shopping center Saldanha, quite near Avenida da Liberdade, (Liberty Avenue). This broad boulevard is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees in Paris with lots of luxury boutiques selling international brands.

Lisbon Avenida da Liberdade Pombal statue

Marquis of Pombals’ statue , a despotic marquis….more…..The Rotunda, or, officially, Praça do Marqués de Pombal

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Hair saloon Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo in historical area Mouraria Lisbon & Antonia

Mouraria, one of the oldest, historical areas in Lisbon, is an intriguing earthy place. Nowadays it’s a melting pot: there are the people with their origin from the once Portuguese colonies, especially from Angola, Cape Verde and Guinea-Bissau, São Tomé and Príncipe Islands, but also from other African countries; the Indian and the Chinese, the biggest representatives of Asia. There’s lots of small shops: typical Portuguese, Indian and a lot of Chinese.

Antonia in front of the saloon Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo Centro Comercial Mouraria Lisbon

Antonia is my favorite hairstylist in Lisbon and she always makes me very happy 😉

Antonia hairdresser Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo Centro Comercial Mouraria Lisbon

In the Mouraria shopping centre, you’ll find African hairdressers, Indian and Chinese food stores and all manner of Brazilian kitsch and knock-off gold in between.

Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo

Antonia worked in Tomé Costa’s AfroLuso hair saloon, now it does not exist anymore. Happily for me Antonia works nearby in the neighbourhood in a saloon called Salão S. Tomé e Principe Unissexo

Tomé Costa 2 years ago:” We started a hair saloon in 1998 in a very small place. About 2 years  ago we opened our new saloon. Among our clients are tourists, but also lots of people who live in this neighborhood. We are very appy with this place”. ‘”Our parents moved to Portugal, we are born here, coming from the São Tomé and Príncipe Islands , a former Portuguese colony located near the northwestern coast of Gabon”. (The islands achieved independence in 1975).”

Tomé Costa African hairdresser Mouraria14

Ladies, gentlemen and children haircuts (from 5-8,50 euro), colouring (from 15 euro), manicure, pedicure and make-up (Kerli products) ; or maybe you prefer an old-fashioned barbershop-shave? (3,50)

Tomé Costa Afro hairdresser Calcada do Mouraria Lisbon5

The atmosphere in the saloon is very warm and welcoming, the staff is super friendly. While waiting for clients these two nice hairsylists enjoy the music….

Tomé Costa Afro Luso hairdresser Calcada da Mouraria Lisbon 9

Ankls Leima Sacramento Neto

The saloon is open from Monday to Saturday 09:00 – 19:00, Sundays and Holidays from 10:00 – 17:00.

Phone number Antonia: 00351 964845367

Antonia extentions

Hair extensions, fuzzy hair or braids? Antonia prefers extensions..

Tomé Costa Afro hairdresser Calcada da Mouraria Lisbon6