If you want to get a good impression of the historical city of Lisbon, take this typical yellow little trolley, ‘eléctrico 28’. This legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines nowadays (2017)!
If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit wonderful Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria, formerly a place of prostitution and drugs. Nowadays this place is very popular.
Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria,was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.
Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria
‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’
Gary Nairn: “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert,a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.
Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn
Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich, the Pregoor a Bifana(pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.
Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017
The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one with mustard or piri-piri).
Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine
Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.
Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂
At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelosserving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.
The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. Although originally built as a private residence, it now belongs to the Viúva Lamego ceramic factory which displays its art inside. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East. One of theTop Ten façades of Lisbon.
Owners Flamingo Bar: Ana Batel & Jorge Gomes Moreira
Owner Ana Batel: ‘Flamingo is a journey, you’ll never know what’s going to happen but you always can count with good mood: Time Out Lisbon rated our bar the bar with best good mood for square meter !! although we only have a few square meters 😉 ‘.
‘Good music, especially when me, Ana, choose the playlist, sorry Jorge… and of course there’s the craziest psycadellic bathroom in Lisbon – a bathroom that turns into a disco floor’.
At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages).
The narrow streets in Bairro Alto(at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.
All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.
Historical area Mouraria in June
Sardines (sardinhas) & the Saint festivities belong together
There’s also the grilled sardines, you can smell it everywhere in the streets! It’s not a good time for sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.
Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems
As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.
During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts
Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂
“não digas que não amas – “do not say you don’t love me pois tens a voz a tremer – because your voice is trembling quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim um sim pretender dizer” – it is “yes” you mean to say….
LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco
Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco
At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info
Prima uitgangspunt om Lissabon te ontdekken, ook voor senioren. Hartje stad. Direct van eigenaar, verhuur sinds 2006. Heerlijke- en rustige patio!
Prive patio (ommuurd en rustig) & vrienden Rob en Felipe
Prijs: 35-40 € pp pn met 2 pers. Met 4-6 pers. € 100/130 p.n. Bij 5 of meer nachten 10 % korting. Kinderkorting. Hartje stad, nabij metro vanaf het vliegveld en startpunt trammetje 28. Patio (rustig, 30 m2) met 2 BBQ’s waar gerookt kan worden. Facebook
Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een oude multiculturele (volks)wijk en toch typisch Portugees, met fado restaurantjes.
Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer november 2016
In de buurt: bakkers met heerlijke verschillende soorten verse broodjes) en onweerstaanbaar lekkere Portugese gebakjes, zoals bijvoorbeeld het beroemde roomtaartje Pastel de Nata: een caloriebom 🙂
Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer Kerstperiode 2016/2017
Restaurantjes in de buurt
De supermarkt is 10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement, er zijn veel kleine winkeltjes in de buurt en typisch Portugese restaurantjes (ca. 9 euro p.p.). Het is veelal goedkoper om uit eten te gaan dan om zelf te koken.
Het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ‘s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer. .
Mouraria apartement Lissabon: Paula Ferreira verzorgt de (uitstekende) schoonmaak
woonkamer met 2-zits comfortabele (slaap)bank en grote antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel met 4 stoelen (Linum, ook geschikt voor terras) en een gemakkelijke extra stoel (Linum). Originele balkenvloer in alle kamers. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas aan de straatkant. Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 81 cm LCD TV, radio, CD-speler, WiFi-aansluiting;
3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat):
slaapkamer met 2 een-persoons (boxspring, 90×200) bedden, aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast en een gemakkelijke stoel. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas;
tweede rustig gelegen slaapkamer (met raam, uitzicht op de tuin van de buren) en een 2-persoons bed (210×180), antieke linnenkast;
derde rustige slaapkamer (met raam naar de patio) en comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200);
Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr. en babybadje;
badkamer met douche, ligbad en toilet. Gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid handdoeken van goede kwaliteit (geen strandlakens). Haardroger;
zonnige (van half maart tot eind september) en rustige prive patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 2 comfortabele stoelen, 3 bamboe stoeltjes en een zonne/slaap stoel. Comfortabele Linux stoelen uit kamer en slaapkamer kunnen ook buiten gebruikt worden. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2 BBQs en 2 muurparasols;
de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Mobiel airco apparaat. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden via Heatwafer ecopanelen in iedere kamer.
Startpunt legendarische gele tram 28: 5 minuten lopen vanaf het appartement
Een ‘must do’ Lissabon attractie: het legendarische trammetje 28, startpunt is vlakbij het appartement. Een ideale- en goedkope manier om de historische wijken van Lissabon te zien en de ‘miradouros’ (mooie uitkijkpunten) over de rivier De Taag.
Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 2e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar de tuin van de buren
The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish
It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017
Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??
O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego.. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017
Portuguese history &Casas de Pasto (pasture house)
The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.
Lisbon people(Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.
With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.
Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356.
Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place! Cafe/restaurant Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) is located in Mouraria, a bit tucked away in the heart of the historical part of Lisbon.
Restaurant Bruta Flor, historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Saturday night February 2017
Nowadays Largo da Severaa in historic area Mouraria is a beautiful little square, named after Maria Severa, considered to be the first fado singer in Portugal.
Once a typography workplace, now it’s been transformed into a lovely small cafe/restaurant.
Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) area Mouraria LisbonFebruary 2017
Historical area Mouraria & 900 years of history
Historical area Mourariaexists more than 900 years, together with Alfama it is Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value. The former Moorish quarter is a muddle of very narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.
Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & healthy creative dishes
Great selection of vegetarian dishes
We ordered a vegetarian meal: tomato couscous (yummy! € 8,50) and Thai chicken (€ 8,75), a bottle of fantastic biological wine Fossil (€ 13,00), small bottle of water (€ 1,30), olives (€ 1,00), and chocolate cake ice cream (€ 3,50).
Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & friend Rob Plews, February 2017
There’s a variety of (bio) Portuguese wines available, my favorite: Fossil 🙂 bottle€ 13.
There are also nights of live music: this night we really enjoyed Vitória.
Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & Vitória (YouTube)
Owners restaurant Bruta Flor Paula, Ruth & Ugo: world citizens
Owner Paula Froes: ‘We are a family of three, who decided to step up and do something for ourselves. All of us have their own professions but I am the only one who works on at least one of mine. None of us was born in Portugal. I come from Mozambique, Ugo and Ruth from England. We have also lived in Brazil. We are somehow a trio of world citizens’.
Owner Paula: “As you come into our place you will probably feel the influences of our travels, both in the decoration, the food, the exhibitions, workshops and live music. The world is made of different people and that makes it exciting. There are many pleasures in life, amongst them eating, drinking, enjoying music, art and people”.
Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon February 2017 & owner Ugo
Home made cakes
Bruta Flor is divided into 2 spaces: there’s a small and cozy cafe right next to the restaurant. From morning to evening there’s coffee and delicious cake (slice € 2.50, home made of course!), and for breakfast and for lunch a variety of healthy ideas to choose from (€ 3.50 – € 7.00).
Restaurant/cafe Bruta FlorMouraria Lisbon, dinner March 2017
Tábua de Enchidos (Meat Board) € 11.50, Tábua Vega with guacamole , black beans, humus, raw vegetables, chips, wrap and toast € 9.00, queijo € 5,50 (1/2 board of cheese variety), glass of red wine € 2.80, coffee € 0.80.
Restaurant/cafe Bruta FlorMouraria Lisbon & dinner with friends Loek Polack and Ans de Graaf
Bruta Flor: a mix of good food, comfort & adventure
Owner Paula: “Providing opportunities for people to meet one another, share their visions, arts, over a delicious meal. Life is not only about gathering, sometimes we just want to be by ourselves and have a good reading in a quiet environment. We would like to think this is also possible at our café. Comfort and adventure. Can we mix them? We believe we can. A flavour, a sound, a colour … there are many ways of tasting life”.
After browsing Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra, (early in the morning you can find the best bargains), it’s a good idea to drink a coffee/beer or enjoy a lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao´, (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ .
Terrace cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon
Legendary fleamarket Lisbon
From the terrace you can see a part of Lisbon’s legendary fleamarket, and the Pantheon, in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.
This popular restaurant serves real Portugese food for a good price (less than 15 euro).
The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.
Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon
Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food for a good price
If you are not too hungry ask for “meia dose” (half serving). Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food. Price: less than 15 €. From the restaurant you can see the dome of The Pantheon.
Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon January ’17
Ths place is one of my favorites. Our lunch (almoço):
Gambas com alho (prawns with garlic) € 9.50, copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1.00. Caril de frango (chicken curry) € 6.90. Agua (small bottle of water) € 1.10, espresso/cafe € 0.80
It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the fleamarket, or a quick nap 😉
Near the restaurant: legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon
If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that ‘fell of a lorry’, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first
Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon
There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazémdas Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owner makes me feel like buying a lot.. ! 🙂
Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017
Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldasopened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).
Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs
I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’
Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.
The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.
Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor.. and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !
Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love
In 1891 designer RafaelBordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂
Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history
The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!
There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….
Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints
Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉