Maps | The Lisbon Connection

December 1, 2019October 5, 2023

National palace Queluz Lisbon: sexual orgies, juicy stories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil.

Information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747. He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire & smallpox

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria‘s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .

On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

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Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia

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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! 🙂 😉 Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54. It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later. Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

November 29, 2019May 9, 2021

Tram 28 Lisbon Martim Moniz: long lines, best stops & pickpockets

Popular and legendary tram 28, (eléctrico 28) is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines during the day (from 17:00-18:00 is a good idea!)

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’ in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol

Famous viewpoint & tourist attraction, on the background Museum of Decorative Arts, really worth a visit!

Starting point tram 28, 2018

Square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Pickpockets, take care!

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care! Leave your bag in the hotel/apartment, just take some money with you in your pocket !

Open air elevator square Martim Moniz near starting point tram 28

Open air elevator connecting Martim Moniz square to the streets around St George Castle

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased since a few years, which means tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.

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The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.

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Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio

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GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2

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ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS

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Starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28, square Praça Martim Moniz

All stops vintage tram 28

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Tram 28 , Lisbon

November 18, 2019June 4, 2021

Noisy Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon: polution & eco-friendly silent Tuk Tours

The last few years Tuk-Tuk cars are gaining more popularity among tourists in Lisbon. You see them everywhere in the city: cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly ! 🙁 🙁

Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria Lisbon & an eco-friendly Tuk Tuk

Mouraria is a very old neighborhoud with narrow streets where big tourist buses cannot get through.

UPDATE 2018: Electric charging points will soon be installed in Lisbon and diesel tuk tuks will be banned

🙂 🙂

YouTube Movie Tuk Tuk Tour Lisbon

November 2018: tourist guide Josephine & small problem with a Tuk Tuk car

‘Do you like to Tuk-Tuk with me’ ? Voulez-vous Tuk-Tuk avec moi? 😉 I saw a car with a led display using this text in several languages. These little Tuk Tuk vehicles are most ideal for short trips and sightseeing and capable to drive through the small streets in the ancient historical neighborhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria.

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: lots of tourists are waiting for legendary electric tram 28

Square Martim Moniz : starting point of the legendary old tram 28

Nowadays several owners of Tuk-Tuk cars are trying to persuade you to take a tour (from 45 – 60 euro for one hour), but a ride with ‘elétrico’ tram 28 will also bring you to most tourist attractions of Lisbon….and much cheaper (around 4 euro pp).

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Tuk-Tuk cars, origin & polution

The Tuk-Tuk cars often run on diesel and some very old ones are imported from Asia. Auto rickshaws of Southeast Asia started from the knockdown production of the Daihatsu Midget which had been introduced in 1957. There are too many of them in Lisbon 🙁 🙁

Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon downtown city center & elegant shopping area Rua Garrett

Young enthusiastic drivers & Tuk-Tuk cars

One of the advantages of the tuk-tuk cars in Lisbon is the possibility making trips with young and enthusiastic people, who speak several languages. Most of them are especially trained to talk about the historic sites of Lisbon.

Eco friendly Tuk car in Lisbon, historic area Alfama

Eco (and silent!) Tuk Tours Lisbon

I have no commercial interest but maybe this article helps to make Lisbon cleaner! 😉 😉

Eco friendly Tuk Tour old town Lisbon: narrow streets of Alfama

September 30, 2019November 30, 2023

Unique former Palace Chiado Lisbon (1781), elegant dining areas & history

The atmosphere is great in this former palace in the heart of Lisbon. Once the recidence of a nobleman who loved to party, now everyone is welcome to admire the beautifully restored rooms, while enjoying fine food and drinks.

Welcome! Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & very nice waiter Aélio

History: Barão (Baron) Joaquim Pedro Quintela, 1st Conde de Farrobo

This elegant palace in Chiado (name of a square and its surrounding area) in Lisbon was built in 1781, where the aristocracy and bons vivants danced, enjoyed lavish banquets and admired new works of art. Baron de Quintela was born in this palace.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon (built in 1781 & a mobile phone….. )

Baron de Quintela: excesses and inordinate feasting

The future 2nd Baron of Quintela and 1st Conde of Farrobo was born in this palace, on 11 December 1801. Despite his importance in political, social and cultural life in Portugal at the time, he will always be remembered for his excesses and revels.

And intrinsically associated with the palace is the famous Portuguese expression ‘farrobodó‘ (from ‘forrobodó’ which literally means having a great party 😉 ).

More about the palace and its history…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, April 2016

Renewed Palácio Chiado opened February 2016: fine dining & entertainment

The former home of Baron Quintela opened to the public under the name Palácio Chiado.
The restoration works took more then one and a half year. The historic rooms nowadays host alternatives for fine dining and other forms of entertainment for Lisbon residents and visitors. The palace will also have a varied cultural program.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon: beautifully restored, 1st floor April 2016

7 chefs & 7 gastronimical concepts

On the ground floor is a bar, with tables for dining, but simply chill out with a drink is also a possibility. There are seven chefs and their 7 gastronimical concepts, from sushi to burgers, and about 250 seats. The idea is to grab the plate and sit where you want.

It feels a bit like Time Out Ribeira Market in a more sophisticated setting.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & tea for 2 and a chocolate cake

Tea bags & small wooden cake forks

We decided to order tea for two (1 st floor) and a small chocolate cake to share, because we just had lunch.

In this elegant palace with grandeur and beautiful frescoed ceilings we expected an elegant soft pastel designed tea set and gold colored spoons, but not just teabags to dip in our cups and small wooden cake forks to eat the cake? 😉 😉

Chá (tea) for 2 persons: 4 euro. Bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) 2.50 euro

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & one of the beautiful frescoed ceilings

Restaurants:

The historic salons of the Palácio Chiado now host seven prestigious fine dining area’s.

Traditional Portuguese snacks (petiscos), cocktails & sparkling wines with fish and shellfish, hamburgers, steaks, light and healthy meals, seafood and sushi.

More details about the restaurants

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & Erika Reusens

Palácio Chiado Lisbon: really worth a visit!
Rua do Alecrim, 70 – Lisbon
Wonderful Website (also in Enlish) FACEBOOK
Sunday till Wednesday from 12:00 – 24:00
Thursday till Saturday from 12:00- 02:00

Video inauguration of the Chiado Palace with hundreds of guests

Despite occupying a considerable area of Rua do Alecrim, the Palace has only one entry, at number 70.

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon

Baron Quintela Room for private events (your own aristocratic party? 😉 )

Seating 16 to 25, Quintela Room can be hired for private events, for a discreet meal, a dinner with friends, or professional events. More…..

Palace (Palácio) Chiado Lisbon & dining area

June 18, 2019June 23, 2021

Bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon: Ginja liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja! Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂 Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent 🙂

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉 The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinha ‘com Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost! 😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder

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YouTube: live fado music around midnight in this small bar

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Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and Lisbon’s first fado singer

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The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.

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Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais

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Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area

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Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.

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June 2019, Artur Domingos & Gabrielle

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon

Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am

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Facebook cafe ‘Os Amigos da Severa’

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Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018

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It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

April 22, 2019April 24, 2019

Stylish Royale Café Lisbon: surprising patio, creative cuisine & elegant area Chiado

Entering Royale Café in Lisbon, we were pleasantly surprised by the stylish interior…. but the biggest surprise is the back patio: just lovely!

Royale Café Lisbon & lovely garden patio

Located in the elegant district Chiado in Lisbon, Royale Café offers creative cuisine with mediterranean ingredients (great vegetarian options) and fine wines.

Royale Café Chiado area, Lisbon

Quiet patio overgrown with lovely plants

Being a group of 10 people, we were lucky still enough space was available for us. We loved the food and the cute litte outside area, overgrown with lovely plants and with lots of shade.

Royale Café Lisbon & quiet patio July 2018

Our bill for 10 persons: 167 euro

Lunch including 2 bottles of fine wine (Quinta de S. Sebastião) and some beers. Homemade creative specialties (natural- and organic products) for a good price! 🙂 . Lovely spot for a brunch (on Sundays and bankholidays). Menu

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café’s design interior is inspired by Scandinavian cafés.

Highly recommended if you are looking for some place to go which is not just traditional Portuguese.

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café – very nice English speaking staff
Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
Nº29 Chiado, LISBON
Website & reservations Facebook
(00351) 93 861 13 70 Free WiFi, dog friendly

Royale Café Lisbon & streetside terrace, Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro

Open: Monday – Wednesday: 12am – 10:30pm
Thursday – Friday: 12am – 11:30pm
Saturday: 12am – 04pm
Sundays & Holidays: 12am – 10:30pm

Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro Lisbon (Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro)

Azulejos: The Art of Lisbon’s Tiles

Nearby: one of the most photographed squares of Lisbon’s tiled buildings. Dating back to 1863 it is covered in pale orange and yellow tiles portraying mythological images. More…

April 13, 2019May 31, 2021

Lisbon: how to recognize good cheap Portuguese restaurants & José & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron.

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’ & owner José Maria

CLOSED. UPDATE March 2019: due to eviction (despejos) after 34 years ( !!) this restaurant is closed. What a shame 🙁 🙁

Vimeo: Evictions in Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’:

5 minutes walk (also open on Sundays): restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’, good food, local prices :-). Rua Marquês Ponte de Lima 5, Mouraria, Lisbon

Discover 900 years old area Mouraria, shops fado, bars & restaurants

Owner José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice, delicious!

The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

Local priced restaurants and useful information about area Mouraria

February 2019: a city trip to Lisbon with 3 generations of the Kollmer family from the Netherlands 🙂 🙂

Good quality & local prices

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon!! 🙂 🙂

If you prefer meat, and don’t feel like experimenting, try a ‘bitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca. 7 euro).

Typical Portugues & very popular: grilled sardines

Bill for 3 persons: around 30 euro

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Restaurant owner Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

January 2016: what a wonderful surprise! 🙂 Erika, Loek, Luc & Ans

Football

In Portugal there’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda November 2018

Unrequested starter dishes

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!). NOT in this place 🙂

Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Roasted apple (sobremesa: dessert)

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00. Dinner from 19:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar), is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frango) piri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto

Nun’s bellies & bacon from heaven 😉

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela in the north.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay in cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 20 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58 Lisbon near starting point starting point legendary tram 28 at square Martim Moniz.

Discover trendy historic area Mouraria Lisbon

March 2, 2019October 3, 2021

TOPO rooftop Martim Moniz Lisbon: open air bar/restaurant & WOW! city views

There ‘s a gem in Lisbon with spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ open air bar ‘Topo’ (Top) overlooking popular square Martim Moniz.

View from restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ : square Martim Moniz Lisbon & Castle of São Jorge

Located on the top floor of the shopping center at square Martim Moniz, this space was once a retail warehouse of Chinese products now being a modern restaurant / bar. Perfect place for a lunch or a late afternoon with cocktails, snacks and good music.

Mafalda Malafaya, Managing Director ‘Topo’ restaurant/bar Lisbon

The staff is wonderful, every time I return I am greeted with a big smile!

Being there for the first time, coming out of the elevator entering ‘Topo’ s space, the views are overwhelming! Everybody is making pictures before sitting down, just like I did 🙂 🙂

Restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ near Mouraria area Lisbon: lunch with friend Erika Reusens

Also the menu is surprising: we started our lunch with Tosta Gambas alioli (toast with garlic prawns): € 6, Tártaro de novilho (calf beef tartare) € 14.00, Tártaro de atum (tuna tartare) € 12.00, bottle of white wine (Pinta Negra) € 15, small bottle of water € 1.50, coffee (bica) € 1.50. Our bill for 2 persons: € 50:00.

A small remark: I also tasted the Prego (a popular sandwich in Portugal) with tuna (€ 11:00), but the bread was baked too hard and (for my taste) the french fries are too salty.

Restaurant/ bar ‘Topo’ near Mouraria area Lisbon & open air rooftop bar

Open air rooftop bar & restaurant area with glazed walls

The restaurant area is surrounded by walls of glass, and also a part of the open air rooftop bar is covered with sheets of transparent plastic.

Rooftop bar ‘Topo’, Mouraria Lisbon. Picture: Marcel van Paridon

A wonderful space if you’re not scared of heights! I am .. 🙁

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar & wonderful city skyline

Starting point touristic tram 28

The square you see from above in the restaurant is Praça Martim Moniz, near the starting point of tram 28, the popular touristic tram.

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar.

Sander Offenberg from Holland loves the city skyline 🙂 picture: Marcel van Paridon

View from bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: historic area Mouraria and the hills of Graça

From here it’s around 15 minutes to walk up the hill to visit the legendary St. George’s castle.

Bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon. Picture: Marcel van Paridon

‘Topo’ is located quite close to my apartment in area Mouraria (where the Moors lived), the birthplace of Fado music.

Bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: tastefully decorated restaurant

Dining bar

In the tastefully decorated restaurant there’s a huge dining bar from where you can admire the wonderful views. This is one of those places where you long for to go there again!

‘TOPO’
Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Tuesday to Thursday – 12:00 to 24:00. Closed on Monday.
Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music)
Sunday – 12:00 to 24:00

E-mail: geral@topo-lisboa.pt

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January 15, 2019May 29, 2021

Café Belga Lisbon: moules-frites, McChouffe & sexy bathroom decor

Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers, is an inviting place 🙂

Café Belga Lisbon: Kany Sissoko and Miguel Avelar

Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhood: Mouraria

Miguel Avelar, Belgian architect, opened Café Belga on the ground floor of a renovated building in Mouraria, Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhood. (Moors resided here after conquering Lisbon in 1147, until being expelled in the 15th century. Few traces of that time remain).

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Reasonable priced typical Belgian dishes

Popular typical Belgian dish: moules-Frites (mussels & Belgian fries) (Portuguese: mexilhões) € 11,50, Belgian beer on tap (Imperial) McChouffe 4.30 €, wine (um copo do vinho da casa) € 3,50. Cafe € 1,20.

Some Belgian beers in Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Belgium, famous for many things (and besides ‘Manneken Pis‘, Little Piddler” 😉 ), is regarded as the world capital of beer. The country offers one of the largest selections of beers in the world.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon: Pedro Rita loves McChouffe

There’s a large selection of Belgian beers, some imported directly from Belgium. Wall decorations of beer marks scatter across the walls of the restaurant , along with a friend’s illustrations .

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Brussels-style Steak Tartare (€ 11.50), slow-cooked beef stew with beer (Carbonnade Flamande € 9.50)

Tasty Belgian frites (fries)

The fries (€ 3) are baked according to Belgian rules . Born in Holland I recognize the taste. They are not fried in oil but with cow lard.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & ceiling lamps

The ceiling lamps made of Philips Gramophone vinyl disks are lovely!

Vegetarian dishes

Vegetarian hamburger made with broccoli and tofu (7,50 €), or vegetable pie (7 €) . (March 2017)

Every Saturday is moules-frites (mussels with fries) day. For dessert there’s f.i. Belgian chocolate mousse.

Café Belga, historic area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Belgian bathroom? 😉 😉

Café Belga Lisboa, Largo das Olarias, 37 Mouraria Lisbon. 10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28, Martim Moniz

Closed Monday. Sunday & Tuesday – Thursday from 11:00-22:00, Friday – Saturday 11.00-00.00.

info@cafebelga.pt Facebook

Café Belga Lisbon

Street, Largo das Olarias, 37 Mouraria Lisbon

Street artist Vhils

In front of Café Belga there’s a small terrace near a wall with amazing work of the Portuguese street artist Vhils (creation via destruction).

Website artsy & artist Vhils

January 9, 2019August 15, 2020

Noobai rooftop bar restaurant Lisbon, nightlife & amazing Tagus river views

What a view! One of the favorite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors. Cafe Noobai is located on Miradouro (viewpoint) de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor.

Renewed Cafe Noobai, overlooking the Tagus River, March 2018

Relaxed ambiance & nice people

Cafe /restaurant Noobai is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tagus (Tejo) river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people. One of my favorite places!

Cafe Noobai, 2015

Noobai Rooftop Bar Restaurant is located at the trendy Santa Catarina Belvedere , Lisbon

Cafe Noobai, 2010

Situated on a Lisbon hilltop Noobai has a panoramic view over the old town houses, the modern buildings, the Tagus river, the harbor, the “25 de Abril” bridge and the amazing sunset .