Trendy square Intendente Lisbon: Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine’, former grandeur & lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit wonderful Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria, formerly a place of prostitution and drugs. Nowadays this place is very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Largo do Indendente Mouraria Lisbon winter 2014 Ans ansd Loek

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon, in February

Dutch friends Ans de Graaf en Loek Polack.

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Even in wintertime it can be good weather in Lisbon with daytime temperatures that average over 15°C .

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

The place to be for all authentic & lovely Portuguese items, quite expensive

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, square Intendente Lisbon

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Lisbon Largo Intendente Shop 'A Vida Portuguesa' 2014

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon & famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. Although originally built as a private residence, it now belongs to the Viúva Lamego ceramic factory which displays its art inside. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East. One of the  Top Ten façades of Lisbon.

Facebook Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

 

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, street party’s, naughty lyrics & grilled sardines

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.

Mouraria Lisbon in June

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon.

YouTube Street party area Mouraria Lisbon 2017

In June, all the streets in the historic areas are decorated with garlands and lights, the atmosphere is wonderful!

Mouraria Lisbon June 12 2016: Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

In this area, short term rentals : my 100 m2 3-bedroom apartment with quiet lovely patio (30 m2) , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12Lisbon turns into one big party 🙂

 Festas de Lisboa       Facebook

Mouraria Lisbon Santo Antonio street party June 12 2016

June 12, 2016 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria, Lisbon. Picture: Hans Stuij

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the streets

Wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets.

Festas de Lisboa June 12 2015 Mouraria1

June 12: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria: party time! 🙂

Rua da Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2017 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Mouraria Lisbon, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad

Lisbon Mouraria historical area in June party time

June 12, 2015: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year

Historical area Mouraria, Rua Guia, Lisbon drinking and dancing in the streets

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

2016 parade historical area Mouraria (YouTube)

June 12, 2016 Rua Guia, Lisbon & the yearly Saint Anthony parade

Yearly parades June 12

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.  Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages).

YouTube yearly parade

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints in historical area Mouraria Lisbon

Saint João 😉 😉 (sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Lisbon June 16 2016

Saint Antonio street party Mouraria Lisbon & the black bra at the neighbors’ balustrade 😉 😉

bar Flamingo & Dutch friend Feikje Stuij

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria Lisbon, June 12, 2017 & bar Flamingo  Strike a pose! 🙂

In this area in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom apartment with quiet sunny patio (30 m2) in this old neighborhood , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably, short term rentals)

Santo Antonio Bica party

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto – partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

Lisbon Santo Antonio restaurant Paladar

Bairro Alto historical area Lisbon

Drinks & sardinhas (sardines) with traditional bread

Lisbon Santo Antonio Trindade Pimba music

Largo da Trindade – people are dancing on Pimba music

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

Pimba is a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria 😉 😉  by Quim Barreiros)

Lisbon santo Antonio Alfama BBQ

Historic area Alfama & BBQ in the street

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube in one of the historical parts of Lisbon: Alfama

Santo Antonio Lisbon June 12 2015 Mouraria Grupo desportivo 2

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.

Lisbon Santo Antonio June Sardinhas

Historical area Mouraria in June

Sardines (sardinhas) & the Saint festivities belong together

There’s also the grilled sardines, you can smell it everywhere in the streets! It’s not a good time for sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Manjerico basil Festas de Lisboa gift R June 2

Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

mass marriages Lisbon St. Anthony’s Weddings

Mass marriages known as “St. Anthony’s Weddings”

There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages), held during the mid-June St. Anthony’s Day celebrations.

More…. YouTube

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities

MORE …

Fleamarket Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao’ Lisbon: good priced Portuguese food & lovely terrace

After browsing Lisbon’s famous flea market  Feira da Ladra, (early in the morning you can find the best bargains), it’s a good idea to drink a coffee/beer or enjoy a lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao´, (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ .

Terrace cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’  Lisbon

Legendary fleamarket Lisbon

From the terrace you can see a part of Lisbon’s legendary fleamarket, and the Pantheon, in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

This popular restaurant serves real Portugese food for a good price (less than 15 euro).

Lisbon restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra terrace

Restaurant O Panteao de Santa Clara’ near the legendary flea market

Former palace & robbery

The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.

Lisbon Restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food for a good price

If you are not too hungry ask for “meia dose” (half serving). Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food. Price: less than 15 €. From the restaurant you can see the dome of  The Pantheon.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon January ’17

Ths place is one of my favorites. Our lunch (almoço):

Gambas com alho (prawns with garlic) € 9.50, copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1.00. Caril de frango (chicken curry) € 6.90. Agua (small bottle of water) € 1.10, espresso/cafe € 0.80

It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the fleamarket, or a quick nap 😉

Lisbon Feira da Ladra man asleep near restaurant O Panteao

Near the restaurant: legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that ‘fell of a lorry’, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first

Lisbon Feira da Ladra owners restaurant O Panteao

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Restaurant owners Armando Pereira Antunes, his wife Maria Guilherina and the very friendly waiter Celso. Campo Santa Clara 146-A, Lisbon , easy to reach with the legendary tram 28, a ´must do´ Lisbon attraction

The former palace near the fleamarket Lisbon

Looking for a nice place to stay in Lisbon?

My authentic 3 bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (short term rentals)

Lisbon at Christmas time: X-mas kitsch, a giant tree, sexy X-mas lingerie & ‘Maria Temptations’ restaurant

In December, thousands of colorful lights decorate Lisbon. Portuguese people love ‘the most wonderful time of the year’, celebrating Christmas with a lot of X-mas kitsch. Everywhere you look you see blinking neon lights, Christmas markets and decorated shops.

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Rua da Prata

Rua da Prata, in December…….

If you are a Christmas hater, maybe it’s a better idea to visit this fascinating city some other time of the year 😉

Movie Christmas decoration

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Theatre Dona Maria

National Theatre Teatro Nacional Doña Maria II.

Christmas time in Lisbon is similar to everywhere else in the world, except that the decorations has a higher kitsch factor.

Lisbon Christmas 2009 sexy window dressing

Rua da Palma,

lingerie shop close to one of my favorite restaurants in Lisbon, RAMIRO

Lisbon Christmas 2009 Hermes window dressing

HermesLargo do Chiado 9.

In Portugal people really love  Christmas window dressing with animals!

Lisbon Chirstmas window dressing 2009

Of course, children love it!

Feira da Ladra alternativa recycled Nespresso cups

Creative Christmas decoration 🙂

Christmas decoration made from recycled Nespresso caps

Lisbon December 2009 Christmas and baggers

A creative idea to make some money at Christmas time……

Lisbon Christmas 2009 united colours shrinked Benetton pullovers

Benetton shop Lisbon, window dressing,  Rua Garrett

The shrinked sweaters of  Benetton  😉

Lisbon Restaurant the Temptations of Goa Jesus Maria2

Restaurant  “Tentações (Temptations) de Goa”.

Tentações de Goa”, Rua S. Pedro Mártir, nº 23. Open for lunch from 12:00, dinner from 19:00 – 00:00. Closed on Sundays and Holidays. Vegetarian friendly.

My holiday  3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio in this area is for rent (short term)

Lisbon giant Christmas tree  Praça do Comércio 

NEW YEAR: on the night of December 31, Lisbon is one big street party! Live music and a fantastic fireworks display  at the famous square Praça do Comércio will be filled on the night of December 31st with concerts by Portuguese bands . Cultural agenda Lisbon

According to the Portuguese tradition, twelve wishes are made to the sound of the twelve bell tolls, toasting with champaign to the new year.

HAPPY NEW YEAR! FELIZ ANO NOVO!

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado music & 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Looking for a short term vacation apartment? My three bedroom apartment with sunny patio (30 m2) in this historic area, Mouraria).

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Amália Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’ Lisbon: typical Angolan dishes & Dutch speaking owner Steve

A taste of Africa in Lisbon: restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi‘ in the historical Mouraria neighborhood in Lisbon serves typical Angolan food.

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon owner Steve and Pedro Rita august 16

Steve Geronimo, owner of restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’ Lisbon & Pedro Rita

Our lunch: Cachupa, 2 glassses of white wine, small bottle of water and coffee: € 14 in total for 2 persons 🙂

Jindungo pepper: the African red devil

A must-try in combination with this dish is a little bit of piri piri jindungo, also known as the African red devil. The Portuguese brought these peppers from Brasil to Africa and Europe. The jindungo pepper seems to be a natural medicine: it is said it’s good to stay healthy and to fight diseases. Very hot!!

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon owner Steve kitchen

Steve Geronimo, owner of restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’  area Mouraria, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’, named after Steve’s daughter

Steve: ‘I live around the corner, together with my Portuguese wife and my lovely little daughter (5 years old), that’s why the restaurants’ name is ‘Cantinha da Fabi’.

Tough jobs in The Netherlands

‘In 1998 I moved to the Netherlands to work there and to save money in order to realize my plans. It is not easy to find work in Portugal and my dream was to open a restaurant in Lisbon’.

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon owner Steve wife and daughter Fabi

Steve Geronimo, his Portuguese wife and little daugther Fabi, Praça do Comércio Lisbon

Steve: ‘I have worked 5 years in The Netherlands, like f.i. in a battery factory, in a spinach factory and in a factory where carpets are made. Only strong men can do these tough jobs: it means lifting and carrying heavy stuff, but the work was well paid’.

(btw: Steve’s muscles are impressive.. 🙂 and he is a fluent Dutch speaker)

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon owner Steve BBQ

Steve Geronimo, owner of restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’ historic area Mouraria, Lisbon

Steve: ‘My dream has come true: my own restaurant in Mouraria!’

Steve: ‘I saved money to realise my dream: 2 months ago I opened this restaurant (soon with an outside terrace). The room was freshly painted, but there still are works to be done to create a typical Angolan atmosphere.

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon Felipe and Rob August 16

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’  area Mouraria, Lisbon: friends Felipe Aristimuño & Rob Plews

We loved the food: grilled fish with vegetables € 5, cabrito € 5 (goat meat stew served with rice, and besides a traditional dish for Angolan Independence day, November 11). Cerveja (beer) € 1, um copo do vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1. Cafe (coffee) € 0,50.

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’  area Mouraria, Lisbon & BBQ in July 2017

In the open space next to the restaurant a separate corner will be created for ‘special occasion’ dinners.

On the wall of the restaurant: a painting of the giant sable antelope (Palanca Negra), the national symbol of Angola and on the list of the world’s critically endangered animals. More…

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon giant sable antelope

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’ area Mouraria Lisbon: giant sable antelope, national symbol of Angola

Steve: ‘I’m inspired by my mother’s way of cooking. She lives in Angola because the climate here is too cold for her. I tried many Portuguese recipes but personally I prefer the herbs used in the Angolan cuisine, f.i. typical dishes like Moamba de Galinha or Calulu.  ‘(More about Angolan cuisine).

There are also typical portuguese- and vegetarian dishes on the menu.

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon Mario and Margriet 2

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’  area Mouraria, Lisbon: friends Mário and Margriet

Grilled fish with potatoes, Moamba de Galinha, salad, a bit home made ‘red devil‘ ,water and wine: € 22,10 for three persons.

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’  area Mouraria, Lisbon & BBQ in July

Kitaba

Kitaba or quitaba is a crunchy, salty peanut paste seasoned with chilli pepper. Traditionally served as a couvert or little side dish when you have a beer break (€ 0,50)

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon KITABA

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi’  area Mouraria, Lisbon & Kitaba

History of Angola: Portuguese colony from 1575 – 1975

The Portuguese colony of Angola was founded in 1575 with the arrival of Paulo Dias de Novais with a hundred families of colonists and four hundred soldiers. Luanda was granted the status of city in 1605. The fortified Portuguese towns of Luanda (established in 1575 with 400 Portuguese settlers) and Benguela remained almost continuously in Portuguese hands until the independence of Angola in 1975. More…..(Wikipedia)

Restaurant Cantinho da Fabi Mouraria Lisbon outside

Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi Lisbon: Pedro Rita, a visitor and owner Steve 😉

Rua de Sao Pedro Martir 78,  Mouraria Lisbon, close to stop tram 28 at square Martim Moniz

Open: every day from 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM (also on Sunday)

Phone: (00351) 960069903       Facebook
Restaurant ‘Cantinho da Fabi Lisbon July 1st 2017

Popular restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ Lisbon: delicious typical Portuguese food & fado history

A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, you’ll find Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’,  Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and a very informal atmosphere . One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon in June

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon kitchen

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Vimeo & restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgílio Oliveira, the chef, preparing my lunch.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon deliscious meat1

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose! half serving) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meia dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon November ’13: lunch Dutch ladies

We enjoyed the menu of the day including duck with rice and steak with a coffee sauce with garlic, 2 bottles of the restaurant’s tasty red house wine (Lisbon region). Total price for 9 persons (in 2013) : 110:50 euro.

Ze da Mouraria dec 16 2015 dameslunch

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon December ’15: lunch with Dutch friends

We enjoyed Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) delicious! Jolanda, Liesbeth, Josephine, Margriet, Hendriktje, Gezina and Feikje. Bill including wine (8 persons): around 150 euro.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon street2

Mouraria , Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins has begun recently.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon meat Picanha

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Lisbon

Delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 16. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood

Mouraria, very old historical part of Lisbon

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria Lisbon Moorish neighborhood fado Severa

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

Ze da Mouraria Lisbon December 16 dames lunch straatje

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’

Lunch is almost always fully booked; We waited for about half an hour in the street.

Rua João do Outeiro 24
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436
Only open for lunch, dinner is possible  for groups. Closed on Sundays, no creditcards
Lisbon restaurant Ze da Mouraria fado pictures
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ & very friendly staff

Historical red tramcar tour ‘7 hills’ Lisbon : Hop on Hop Off & picturesque neighbourhoods

Although public transport (tram 28) is much cheaper, this historical red tramcar tour allows you to know the most picturesque neighborhoods of Lisbon in a friendly and comfortable way, while listening to the commentary available in several languages or melancholic melody of fado music.

Lisbon red tourist tram 7 hills Praca do Comercio

Historical red tramcar tour &Praça do Comércio Lisbon

Tickets

Red tram tour, leaving from one of the most beautiful squares in the world: Praça do Comércio where you can buy a ticket. From around € 17 p.p. Child (4-9) around € 10

You will pass the narrow and steep streets of the city’s traditional quarters. You will see chatting people on doorsteps and feel the village atmosphere of Alfama and Mouraria and reveal a sharp contrast to the elegant, noble buildings of Chiado and Lapa. You will certainly fall in love with Lisbon and sooner or later you will come back……

Lisbon historical Red tram tour driver Paulo Dias starting point Praca do Comercio

Red tram driver Paulo Dias historical red tramcar tour Lisbon

HOP ON HOP OFF

“You can take advantage of the ‘Hop On Hop Off” system. This allows tourists to get off at each stop (20 min.), visit the surrounding area, and then get back on the tram or wait for the next one.

Tickets & prices

The ‘ 7 Colinas‘ (hills) route (about 1 1/2 hour, ) departs every 30 minutes, from 10:00-20:00 (from June-Sept), from 10:20-17:40 (Oct-May).

Lisbon historical red tram tour tourists

Historical red tramcar tour Lisbon

“The ‘Carristur’ company has faithfully restored the interior of the trams dating from the thirthies and fourties, preserving their charm and original character.

Lisbon church Mouraria

Historical red tramcar tour Lisbon

Little church in Mouraria. More about this old neighborhood, home of fado music…..

In this area there’s my 3 bedroom apartment with 3 bedrooms and a 30 m2 patio (short term rentals)

This ‘ 7 Colinas’ (hills) route goes through the oldest and most traditional districts, giving its passengers a real taste of the city. Mouraria, Alfama, Chiado, Sao Bento and Estrela are just some of the districts that can be seen in the tram.

Lisbon historical red tram tour Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Historical red tramcar tour Lisbon

Alfama. This street is close to the legendary Feira da Ladra (‘thieves market’) and the castle of São Jorge (Castle of Saint George)

Lisbon historical Red tram tour Pessoa statue girl

Historical red tramcar tour Lisbon

Chiado, Rua Garrett. Famous cafe ‘A Brasileira’ with the statue in bronze of the poet Fernando Pessoa, mobbed by lots of tourists, all day long! And of course you will pass the Bica funicular

Lisbon historical Red tram tour Rua de Sao Paulo Rua Boa Vista stairs

Historical red tramcar tour Lisbon

Rua Sao Paulo/Rua da Boa Vista

Lisbon Red tram historical tour tourists see other tourists

As a tourist you will see a lot of other tourists waiting for tram 28

TRAM 28 (eletrico) is very popular . The number of tourist has been increased (2016), which means that tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.

Lisbon Red tram tour sightseeing little streets Pastelaria

Historical red tramcar tour Lisbon

Wallet-friendly restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Mouraria Lisbon: tasty Portuguese food & park ‘Jardim da Cerca da Graça’: great city views & children’s playground

Not trendy or chic, but very tasty and cheap: typical Portuguese food in Mouraria, historic area of Lisbon, close to a new park with wonderful old town city views. Easy to reach from square Praça Martim Moniz (tram 28)

Restaurant Cantinho Mouraria Lisbon cheap traditional Portuguees food 2

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Mouraria Lisbon, owners & daughter Ilda

Away from tourist areas in Lisbon you can find good and cheap restaurants, like restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ (Custódio ‘s Corner) in historic area Mouraria: tasty Portuguese food for a very good price: around 5-7 euro pp  😉

Restaurant Cantinho Mouraria Lisbon cheap traditional Portuguees food 10

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Mouraria Lisbon: good and cheap Portuguese food

Our bill: bife da casa 7.00 € (Portuguese fried beef with an egg on top of the meat, rice, or fried potatoes and salad), polvo (octopus): 5.00 €, carafe of house wine 0.50 l (vinho da casa): 1.40 €, bottle of water (agua): 0.85 €, dessert (sobremesa): maçã assada (roasted apple) 1.50  €, 2 coffee: 1.20  €, licor Beirão  (Portuguese liqueur) : 0,75  €

Restaurant Cantinho Mouraria Lisbon cheap traditional Portuguees food 12

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’ Lisbon: polvo & batata cozida (octopus & potatoes) 5.00 €

Very popular: bitoque (Portuguese steak)

The Portuguese steak, bife, is a slice of fried beef served in a wine-based sauce with fried potatoes, rice, or salad.
Bitoque (toque means touch), comes from the idea that the meat only ‘touches’ the grill twice, meaning that it does not grill for too long before being served, resulting in a rare to medium-rare cut of meat. A fried egg is placed on top of the meat.

Mouraria Lisbon Laurinda restaurant O Cantinho

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’  area Mouraria Lisbon: tasty and cheap Portuguese food

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho’ do Custódio
Calçada Do Monte 3
Mouraria Lisbon
Tel.: (00351) 218860826, no WiFi

About 10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 square Martim Moniz

More about  ‘eléctrico 28′. This legendary tram is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town.

Mouraria Lisbon O Cantinho restaurant 2011 Arjen

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’  area Mouraria Lisbon: very tasty and cheap Portuguese food

Eat & drink like a local

Although this restaurant is quite close to the touristy areas of Lisbon, this is a local place that serves typical Portuguese food. You are very welcome, but the owners do not speak English.

Lisbon Apple dessert sobremesa maca

Restaurant ‘O Cantinho do Custódio’  area Mouraria Lisbon & roasted apple 1.50 €

Historical area Mouraria & history

Historical area Mouraria exists more than 900 years, together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value. The former Moorish quarter is a muddle of very narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Vimeo about the historic area Mouraria in Lisbon

Mouraria Graca Park beautiful city views 7

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon, wonderful views & the Saint George castle

Nearby garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça & wonderful old town city views

The new garden, with an area of ​​1.7 hectares, was inaugurated on 17 June 2015. It is the largest green space for public access to historic districts of Lisbon, the connection between the neighborhoods of Graça and Mouraria, opened to the public.

Mouraria Graca Park beautiful city views 8

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon & wonderful city views

Kiosk & childeren’s playground

According to the Lisbon Municipality, the project implemented on site included the planting of about 180 trees and shrubs. It was closed to the public for centuries.
There are three viewpoints, a picnic park, an orchard, a playground for children and a kiosk with a terrace. They serve soups, sandwiches and homemade cakes. ​

Mouraria Graca Park beautiful city views 1

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon, kiosk & beer: 1 euro 🙂

Jardim da Cerca da Graça
Calçada do Monte 46,
Graça, Lisbon
Opening hours: 10:00 to 22:00 (also on Sundays)
near children’s play ground, Wifi available

Pedro Rita park Graca Mouraria Lisbon beautiful city viewpoint

Garden Jardim da Cerca da Graça Lisbon & journalist Pedro Rita

More pictures

This garden is located about 10 min. walk from my 3-bedroom apartment with 30 m2 lovely patio (short term rentals)

Kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ Lisbon, garden at fleamarket Feira da Ladra & children playground

The ‘Clara Clara’ Cafe in Alfama Lisbon is a kiosk in the garden-terrace of  (Santa Clara), overlooking the Tagus (Tejo) River and the National Pantheon (Church of Santa Engracia) at Lisbon’s legendary flea market, Feira da Ladra.

‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

This small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon or after visiting the nearby National Pantheon , in which important Portuguese personalities are buried.

Clara Clara terrace & view on the Tagus river, Lisbon

This garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids . A little further down, there is a playground.

Playground and game tables for children – kiosk cafe Clara Clara Lisbon

As for the menu, the cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Clara Clara terrace in summertime

An inviting terrace in summertime: you can cool off under the trees of the garden. The kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in sumertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Nothing better than a tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) on a cold afternoon. The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn)