Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ Lisbon: delicious typical Portuguese food, old Moorisch neighborhood, Amália Rodrigues & fado history
A little bit hidden in the former Moorish quarter Mouraria, in a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, you’ll find Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, mainly visited by local Portuguese. Great typical Portuguese food and, also important, very nice people and a very informal atmosphere . One of my favorites! (Air-conditioned in summertime).
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon
In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).
The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgilio, the cook, preparing my lunch
Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose!) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meio dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from € 2.50
Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria, has only begun recently.
Also delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 14. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).
The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.
Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon
No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.
1100 Lisbon, Portugal
00351 218 865 436