Lovely Portuguese ceramics at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ & symbols of Portugal, ‘good luck’ rooster, ‘saint’ sardine, ‘friend’ codfish & ‘love’ swallow

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owner makes me feel like buying a lot.. ;-) I love it!

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra Novermber 15 1

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon

Armazém (litt. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramic Bordalo Pinheiro black cat

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, litt. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramic 3

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramics swallow

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha in Portuguese) & love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! :-)

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramics hanging codfish

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics galinha

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Of course there’s a ‘good luck’ rooster in my 3-bedroom apartment with patio in Lisbon  ;-)  (short term rentals).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics sardines

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) ;-)

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube (in historical area Alfama)

Lisbon Feira da Ladra shop Armazem Caldas tableware1

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00
Thursdays and Fridays: open from 11:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon Armazem das Caldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Rooftop Restaurant Bar ‘TOPO’ Lisbon facing popular square Martim Moniz: stunning city center views, surprising dishes & late night open air bar

There ‘s a gem in Lisbon with spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ bar ‘Topo’ (Top) facing the popular square Martim Moniz.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant view Martim Moniz Castle St George

View from restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ : square Martim Moniz Lisbon &  Castle of São Jorge

Located on the top floor of the shopping center at square Martim Moniz, this space was once a retail warehouse of Chinese products now being a modern restaurant / bar. Perfect place for  a lunch or a late afternoon with cocktails, snacks and good music.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant friendly staff Mafalda Malafaya

Mafalda Malafaya, Managing Director ‘Topo’ restaurant/bar Lisbon

The staff is wonderful, every time I return I am greeted with a big smile!

Being there for the first time, coming out of the elevator entering ‘Topo’ s space, the views are overwhelming! Everybody is making pictures before sitting down, just like I did :-) :)

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant Erika lunch December 2015

Restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ near Mouraria area Lisbon: lunch with friend Erika Reusens

Also the menu is surprising: we started our lunch with Tosta Gambas alioli (toast with garlic prawns): € 6, Tártaro de novilho (calf beef tartare) € 14.00, Tártaro de atum (tuna tartare) € 12.00, bottle of white wine (Pinta Negra) € 15, small bottle of water € 1.50, coffee (bica) € 1.50. Our bill for 2 persons: € 50:00.

A small remark: I also tasted the Prego (a popular sandwich in Portugal) with tuna (€  11:00), but the bread was baked too hard and (for my taste) the french fries are too salty.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant square Martim Moniz open air bar

Restaurant/ bar ‘Topo’  near Mouraria area Lisbon & open air rooftop bar

Open air rooftop bar & restaurant area with glazed walls

The restaurant area is surrounded by walls of glass, and also a part of the open air rooftop bar is covered with sheets of transparent plastic.

Mouraria Lisbon rooftop Bar Topo February 2015

Rooftop bar ‘Topo’, Mouraria Lisbon. Picture: Marcel van Paridon

A wonderful space if you’re not scared of heights!  I am .. :-(

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar Martim Moniz open air bar dec 15

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar & wonderful city skyline

Starting point touristic tram 28

The square you see from above in the restaurant is Praça Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and weekly markets, near the starting point of tram 28, the popular touristic tram. 

Mouraria roofbar Topo Sander Offenberg

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar. Sander Offenberg from Holland loves the city skyline :-) picture: Marcel van Paridon

Square Intendente – a great place, 10 minutes walk from here

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit Largo (square) do Intendente, : formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays a great place to spend time with family and friends.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant historical area Mouraria and Graca

View from bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: historic area Mouraria and the hills of Graça

From here it’s around 15 minutes to walk up the hill to visit the legendary St. George’s castle.

‘Topo’ is located quite close to my apartment in area Mouraria (where the Moors lived), the birthplace of Fado music.

5 minutes walk: my 3-bedroom apartment with 30 m2 sunny patio (short term rentals)

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar Martim Moniz restaurant ares with city view

Bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: tastefully decorated restaurant

Dining bar

In the tastefully decorated restaurant there’s a huge dining bar from where you can admire the wonderful views.  This is one of those places where you long for to go there again!

‘TOPO’
Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Tuesday to Thursday – 12:00 to 24:00. Closed on Monday.
Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music)
Sunday – 12:00 to 24:00

E-mail: geral@topo-lisboa.pt

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Restaurant ‘Casa de Pasto’ Lisbon: tasty Portuguese culinary traditions, remarkable vintage decoration, funny bathrooms, Mick Jagger & cool Cais do Sodré area

Inspired by the late 19th-century traditional Lisbon eating houses favored by the bourgeoisie, restaurant Casa de Pasto serves very tasty Portuguese dishes. Worth a visit!

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon Cais do Sodre vintage decoration 2

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon: wonderdul vintage decoration

Cool Cais do Sodré riverside area & a former brothel

Restaurant Casa do Pasto opened in December 2013 by the hand of chief Diogo Noronha, a.o. responsible for the very successful ‘Lx Factory’ (a former industrial area surrounded by restaurants, galleries, studios, an open air market on Sundays), and the unique nearby bar Pensão Amor’, a former brothel.

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon Cais do Sodre vintage decoration

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon & the very sympathic waiter

Beside this imposing space there are two more dining rooms: the first is small (but beautiful), with a long, narrow table, ideal for group dinners that do not exceed ten people. For a more romantic meal is advised the room with only two small tables where stands out an antique chaise longue and corner with images of saints.

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon Cais do Sodre 2

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon, area Cais do Sodré: mouthwatering dishes!

Our lunch (almoçar): delicious tuna steak (atum) and vegetables (ca. 20 euro), home made chips, costeletas de borrego (lamb, ca. 15 euro, 2 glasses of wine, water and a dessert (sobremesa): a total of around 60 euro.

This restaurant goes back in time, but mixes modern cooking methods with Portugal’s culinary traditions.

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon vintage decoration dessert 2

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon: dessert ‘Wild Desire’ a combination of fruits with chocolate (facebook)

Casas de Pasto (litt. houses of pasture) & Portuguese history

Lisbon people (Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city in order to enjoy some pleasures of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organized family picnics or simply had lunch in the old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them, still retain the rings that held the animals.

Casa de Pasto portas da Amadora alfacinhas retro 2

A ‘Casa de Pasto’, near Amadora, close to Lisbon, late 19th century/beginning 20th century. Picture: Arquivo Municipal de Lisboa

With the time the owners of the Casas do Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to modern restaurants.

Source: Folclore Online de Portugal

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon area Cais do Sodre Erika e Luc

Restaurant Casa de Pasto February ’15, Lisbon: friends Erika Reusens and Luc De Leersnyder

Bordalo Pinheiro: traditional Portuguese ceramic designs

One of the corner tables is next to the bookcase with traditional Portuguese Bordalo Pinheiro (1846–1905)ceramic designs, a very famous Portuguese artist known for his illustration, caricatures, sculpture, considered the first Portuguese comics creator. More….

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon area Cais do Sodre building plastic pig

Restaurant Casa de Pasto , Rua do São Paulo 20, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon

Big plastic pig

Restaurant Casa de Pasto is located in a typical Portuguese 19th-century antique building, on the first floor, very easy to find: look for the big plastic pig hanging on the wall

Location: Rua São Paulo 20, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon. Closing time: 02:00. Reservation advised. Average price: 20.00 euro. Phone: (+351) 963 739 979. Smoking area.

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 12:00 to 15:00 and 20:00 to 23:00 (Thursday, Friday and Saturday until 24:00. Closed: Sunday. Facebook

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon area Cais do Sodre building funny toilet

Restaurant Casa de Pasto Lisbon & one of the funny bathrooms

May 2014, The Rolling Stones in Lisbon: Rock in Río YouTube, Mick Jagger dined at this fine restaurant.  Mick Jagger & restaurant chef Diogo Noronha  (facebook)

Looking for a nice apartment (100 m2, 3 bedrooms with window) with private patio in Lisbon? Check the availability calender , thank you :-)

Cool spot to relax by Lisbon’s river Tagus: Cariocas do Rio, wonderful terrace, sunbeds, good food, slow service, great view 25 April bridge & Cristo Rei statue

UPDATE May 2016:

Nowadays the Monte Mar’ restaurant occupies this space

If you’re in Lisbon for a few days and looking for a cool spot to relax or enjoy a lunch near the Tagus river, I can recommend ‘Cariocas do Rio’. One of the best places in the area!

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio relax nearTagus river1

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’ Lisbon: cool spot to relax near the river Tagus

‘Cariocas do Rio’ (litt. native inhabitants of the city of Rio de Janeiro) is located only 5 minutes walk from Cais do Sodré , Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation and ferry terminal.

Quiet place on weekdays during lunchtime

Especially on weekdays it’s a nice and quiet place to enjoy a lunch by the river, or to laze in the sun in one of the lounge chairs while sipping a caipirinha (Brazil’s national and very popular cocktail). YouTube

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio relax near Tagus river 2 lunch Erika

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’ Lisbon near Lisbon’s ferry terminal: April 2015, lunch with friend Erika Reusens

From snacks and varied inputs to more complex dishes, there is a bit of everything. With a strong tendency to Mediterranean cuisine, like f.i. the salad Caprese, very fresh. Delicious!

Lunch & ferry to Cacilhas, the south bank of Lisbon

While watching the ferries coming and going across the river to Cacilhas (worth a visit!), the south bank of Lisbon, we enjoyed our lunch: vegetable soup (sopa) € 3.50, salmon salad (salade de salmão) € 9.50, hamburger € 10.00. Bottle of white wine: Planalto  € 14 .00, Small bottle of water (agua) € 2.75.

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio near Tagus river 3 sunbeds

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’ Lisbon: wonderful views! 25 April Bridge & Cristo Rei statue

‘Best place to date’ in Lisbon

This terrace, cataloged as ‘best place to date’ in Lisbon by Brazilian magazine Veja, is a great place for lunch, snack, dinner or just to have a good time enjoying the river with a hot drink or a glass of wine, especially in the evening, to experience the lounge chairs. It’s a very romantic place to watch the sunset…  :-)

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio near Tagus river 4

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio‘ Lisbon: very romantic place near the river Tagus

March to October: serving meals from 12am to midnight & bad customer service

The terrace serves meals from 12:00 to 24:00 every day of the week from March to October. Blankets are available for colder nights.

The atmosphere is calm and relaxed,  but sometimes a bit tooooo relaxed :-(  . The customer service is quite bad, see also: Facebook

Lisbon terrace Cariocas do Rio near the river Tagus how to get there 1

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’, 5 minutes walk from metro station Cais do Sodré 

Terrace CARIOCAS DO RIO – from 12am to midnight every day of the week from March to October.
Rua da Cintura, Armazém 65, easy to reach from metro station Cais do Sodré 
Cais do Gás – 1200 Lisbon
Phone: 00351 213220160


Lisbon terrace Cariocas do Rio near the river Tagus at night foto by Armazem F 2

Terrace ‘Cariocas of Rio’ in the evening: great view (picture: ‘Armazém F‘)

Ginja liqueur in Mouraria Lisbon : tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ (‘Friends of Severa’, first fado singer), owner sr. António & spontaneous fado performance

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious liqueur: Ginja. Very popular, also affectionally known as Ginjinha.

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Ginja liqueur April15 2

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the partly renewed and nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer). Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja: 1 euro :-)   Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  :-) 

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street tourists

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from city center tourist attraction

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly ;-)  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

My 100 m2 apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovley patio is 5 minutes walk from here (short term rentals)

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Felipe

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets :-(

Lisbon cafe Amigos da Severa Mouraria Luc e Erika fado

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  ;-) A remarkable night in Mouraria with friends Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
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Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa people street live fado
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Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and first fado singer of Lisbon
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The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
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Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa owner sr. Antonio Pais May15
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Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
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Area Mouraria : fado history & fashionable
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Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together :-) . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
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Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street nextdoor fado house
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Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’
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It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
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Lisbon Mouraria Fado house Maria da Mouraria augst 14
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Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2, Lisbon
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Petiscos (tapas) menu for 3 persons and wine: around 90 euro
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5 minutes walk from here : Trendy bar Anos 60 & live music:
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Lisbon bar ANOS 60 Festas populares Santo Antonio night June 12 15
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Bar ‘Anos 60′ Mouraria Lisbon: June 12, Lisbon’s craziest night! More:
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Nowadays a trendy spot, often live music, like Cabo Verdean music, Brasilian (former Portuguese colonies), jazz and more.  A lot of people of various nationalities discover this aerea. Open daily from 22:00-04:00. Largo do Terreirinho 21, smoking permitted. Facebook

Lisbon recommended wine tasting & specialized tours: ‘Venha Vinho’ in historic area Bairro Alto, free tasting, wine with natural cork & Francisco, the charismatic ‘wine dreamer’

Wine lovers! If you are visiting Lisbon: the Portuguese wines are delicious and besides they are affordable. We enjoyed an evening of wine tasting in the shop of Francisco, ‘wine dreamer’, as he describes himself ;-)

Lisbon wine shop Bairro Alto Venha Vinho Francisco wine dreamer 1

Lisbon wine shop Venha Vinho (‘litt. come wine’) & owner Francisco Franco Afonso

Free wine tasting evenings & shop ‘Venha Vinho’ in Bairro Alto Lisbon

The idea: all participants buy a bottle of wine. In the tasting room of the small but cozy wine shop the selection of wines are shared and tasted, while Francisco shares his passion for wine. We learned about Portugal’s different wine regions, styles, characteristics & much more…….

February 2015: tasting room of Francisco’s wine shop Venha Vinho in Bairro Alto, Lisbon: wine lovers Ans & Loek from Holland, family Deauville from Australia & Miguel (Portuguese).

(Looking for an authentic apartment in Lisbon? (short term rentals): my 3 bedroom apartment with lovely private patio (30 m2))

Most participants (a mix of people visiting Lisbon and a few ‘Lisboetas’/ inhabitants) did not know eachother but the atmosphere soon became informal; after some sips of wine we began to loosen up ;-)

Lisbon wine shop Bairro Alto Venha Vinho Francisco & participants wine tasting 3

Wine tasting evening in Francisco’s wine shop in Lisbon & my choice: Monte Velho

Monte Velho (‘old hill’) wines : affordable priced in Lisbon

“Monte Velho wines are faithful to the spirit and tradition of Portugal’s warm, sunny Alentejo region: food-friendly and vibrant, with rich aromas and a smooth palate”  Very well written!  Price in Lisbon € 4- 7. Also recommended:

Terras do Pó  (litt. land of dust, Setúbal Peninsula, close to Lisbon) and Periquita (litt. a female parakeet) :-)

Wine tasting Francisco wine shop Bairro Alto one of his favorites Feb 15 1

Francisco Franco Afonso & one of his favorite wines

One of Francisco’s favorite wines: Dona Paterna Alvarinho 2013 (Vinho Verde, famous green wine). Francisco: ” Portugal is a haven for unique authentic wines from more than 250 indigenous grape varieties. Portugal wineries, estates and domains (‘Quintas’ and ‘herdades’) are beautiful and hospitable”

Popular Hen & Stag Party’s

“We also host Wine & Port Tours , Hen party’s, ‘Food and Wine Walking Tours’ including a walk to the nearby legendary Lisbon market Mercado da Ribeira 

Francisco’s wine shop Venha Vinho in Bairro Alto, Lisbon. Wine tasting evening & real corks

Save a tree – buy wine with natural cork

Buying wine with real corks helps preserve the cork forests of Portugal and the wider western Mediterranean which are, it turns out, ecological marvels.

Vimeo movie about the amazing cork oaks & and why to avoid synthetic corks

Unique cork oaks in Portugal: fortunately they are protected

What’s unique about cork is that the thick bark can be harvested from the trees without cutting them down. A skilled crew hacks the bark off with axes. If done right, it grows back. Amazing! Read more….

Wine tasting evening Venho Vinho Bairro Alto Lisbon participant

Francesco’s wine shop Venha Vinho in Lisbon & wine lover lady Dorville from Australia

BOOKINGS Francisco +351 912 152 086.  Website VenhaVinho
email: ffa@VenhaVinho.com
Location: Travessa da Bica Grande, 4A, Bairro Alto Lisbon, Portugal, near Lisbon’s most photographed street, the Bica funicular

Portugal wine regions 4

Map of Portuguese wine history & regions . Already in 1758, one of the first wine-producing region of the world, the Região Demarcada do Douro was created.

Restaurant Cantinho do Aziz Lisbon: visit former Portuguese colony Mozambique without leaving Lisbon: tasty African food, a naughty little secret, Laurentina beer & Camilla Watson

Lisbon is the place for fantastic food! Apart from traditional Portuguese cuisine, restaurants from former Portuguese colonies have become more and more popular in recent years, like African and Goan (India) cuisines

Restaurant ‘Cantinho do Aziz’ Mouraria Lisbon: you feel like being in Mozambique!

Portuguese-speaking African countries (former colonies)  in which the Portuguese language is still an official language: Angola, Cape Verde, Guinea-Bissau, Mozambique, São Tomé and Príncipe and Equatorial Guinea

O Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon terrace March 15 1.jpg 2 Caril Vegetaria

Restaurant ‘Cantinho do Aziz’ , Mozambican food in historical area Mouraria Lisbon. Very tasty!

Caril Vegetaria (vegetarian curry) € 9.00; cerveja (beer) Laurentina € 1; agua (small bottle of water) € 1 and a bit of piri-piri.

Lisbon restaurant Cantinho do Aziz 2 juli 2016 birhtday dinner

Restaurant ‘Cantinho do Aziz’ July 2nd 2016: great dinner with lovely friends

The cuisine of Mozambique

The cuisine of Mozambique has been deeply influenced by Portugal. In the early 1500s, the Portuguese colonized Mozambique.

Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon terrace March 15 2

African restaurant ‘Cantinho do Aziz’, Mouraria Lisbon

After over four centuries of Portuguese rule, Mozambique gained independence in 1975

cantinho-do-aziz-lisboa-october-2016-paula-e-fernando

African restaurant ‘Cantinho do Aziz’ Lisbon: October ’16 Paula & Fernando Ferreira

In this restaurant the dishes are not spicy; you have to try a little bit of their piri-piri Sacana pasta: a wonderful combination! (and so does the soft background African music and a beer called Laurentina….).

Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon terrace March 3 piri piri

Restaurant Cantinho do Aziz & home made Piri-Piri ‘SACANA’ (which means ‘son-of-a-bitch’) 

Mozambican food is rich in meats, fish, and shellfish. Piri piri, (or the African Devil) is a traditional hot sauce, added to most meat and fish dishes. It is made from hot peppers or chilies, lemon juice, and spices boiled down to a thick paste. Delicious, but flaming hot!

restaurant-cantinho-do-aziz-lisboa-liesbeth-and-erik-nov-16

African restaurant ‘Cantinho do Aziz’ Lisbon & Erik Herter and Liesbeth Niebling

Sometimes there’s live music because this area is the cradle of Portuguese fado music Video

(Sacana & ocra: pssssssst… a little secret):

Okra (or ladies’ fingers) in combination with ‘Sacana’ piri piri sauce is called ‘mini-Viagra for women)  ;-)

Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon terrace March 15  Bambino and Eunice

Restaurant Cantinho do Aziz & very friendly staff

Bambino (his portrait can also be seen on the wall ) and Eunice. This restaurant is an excellent choice to taste true Mozambican food, with honest prices.

Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon March Rob Plews

Restaurant Cantinho do Aziz & Rob Plews: lovely evening and great food

Muamba de galinha (chicken done in palm oil with okra and african vegetables served with coconut rice) € 8; Makoufe (Prawns, crab and mixture of cabbage, served with coconut rice) € 10; Pulao de Cabrito c/ Arroz de coco (lamb with coconut rice): € 10.

Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon owner Aziz

Restaurant owner Khalid (born in Beira, Mozambique)

Mouraria

Khalid: ‘After the war, in 1982, my father decided to move to Portugal. I was born in Mozambique and arrived in Lisbon as a 1 year-old-kid . In the beginning my father Aziz worked in a restaurant but in 1983 he started his own restaurant here in Mouraria. Nowadays it is very popular! I am married with Jenny (also from Mozambique), we have 2 children. We also lived some years in London’.

Delivery to your holiday apartment or hotel

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Restaurant Cantinho do Aziz Lisbon Laurentina beer

Laurentina beer & lovely ladies

Laurentina is Mozambique’s oldest beer brand. The name is dedicated to lovely ladies: ‘laurentinas’ ;-)  . Read more…..

Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon Feb 15 ns en Loek

February 2015 Lisbon: friends Ans and Loek from Holland & owner Khalid.

We enjoyed: Chamussas (2 starters, meat and vegetarian € 2,50); Camarão com quiabo (prawns in curry sauce with coconut rice) € 11;00; Muamba (chicken done in palm oil with okra and african vegetables served with coconut rice) € 8; Yuca wa Miamba (prawns in coconut sauce with okra and manioca) € 12; bebinka (dessert) € 3,50;  jarro do vinho da casa (half carafe of house wine) € 3. Coffee € 1.

Restaurant Cantinho do Aziz Lago dos Trigeiros March15

Restaurant street Cantinho do Aziz, Mouraria Lisbon

Location: 10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , turn left and there’s the restaurant: Rua das Fontaínhas de São Lourenço 5, phone: (00351) 218876472 Lisbon. Video how to walk to the restaurant from square Martim Moniz

10 minutes walk from my 3-bedroom apartment with sunny pátio in Mouraria(short term rentals)

Facebook & reservations restaurant

This restaurant serves fish and vegetarian dishes as well as meat dishes (halal).

Cantinho do Aziz restaurant Mouraria Lisbon portrait Camilla Watson

Lovely Jenny (married with Aziz) is the boss in the kitchen: ‘my father adored Janice Joplin and Jane Fonda; he combined their names’

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in the area for 6 years.

Top biking expercience in Lisbon: ‘Bike A Wish’ rental (E)-bike shop in Mouraria near square Martim Moniz & passion for déco inspired Portuguese bikes

Lisbon becomes more and more attractive for tourists: people from all over the world love to spend a few days in this unique and peaceful city! The nearby Atlantic beaches and fairytale palaces (like in Sintra ) are famous attractions, also easy to reach by (e)-bike.

Bike a Wish Lisbon Mouraria  bike rent Arpil 15

‘Bike A Wish’ store Lisbon: owner Rui Gomes & trainee Diego Sarasola (18 year old Erasmus student from Spain) Mouraria Lisbon, near square  Praça Martim Moniz (background)

Eco-friendly e-bike

If you visit Lisbon during a few days (nickname: the city of seven hills or in Portuguese ‘a cidade das sete colinas), an e-bike is a great way to explore the city and to discover Lisbon’s breathtaking views.

Lisbon BikeaWish Mouraria Ana Graffity wallpainting Lisbon

Lisbon ‘Bike A Wish’ store, owner Ana Nascimento & amazing Lisbon graffity wall design (the 25 April bridge, the Castle of Saint George above the city, the hills…). Artist: Diogo

More and more Lisbon is changing: impoverished old buildings and/or neighborhoods with a long history are to be restored. Creative young people start their own business, like Ana Nascimento and Rui Gomes recently did in historic  Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of the city.

Beautiful view old town Lisbon & river Tagus

‘Bike A Wish’ store in Lisbon: ‘A dream came true”

Owner ‘Bike A Wish’ store in Lisbon Rui Gomes: “Ana and myself started to think opening our own business about 2 years ago. Our passion for bicycles was crucial, when deciding which business to start.
We had already visited Amsterdam several times in the past, and it marked us, in such way, that in result, today we´re the proud owners of ‘Bike A Wish’ (also partners are Frederico and Joana from Vilamoura , Bike a Wish Algarve store)”.

Bike a Wish store Lisbon Mouraria Ana e Rui tandem

‘Bike a Wish’ store in historic area Mouraria Lisbon & owners Ana and Rui

Rui: “Ana (marketeer) and Joana (designer) were both unemployed and me and Frederico were working in a foreign bank, in Lisbon, and quit, in order to give 200% of ourselves to this project. So, I´m happy to say that, first of all, ‘Bike A Wish’ is based on friendship and trust!”

Lisbon BikeaWish e-bike bikes store Lisbon Mouraria  2015

Bike A Wish’ store in Mouraria Lisbon & owner Rui Gomes. Rua das Fontainhas a São Lourenço 29, Martim Moniz

The location – historic  Mouraria Lisbon

Rui Gomes, owner: ‘ Mouraria is one of the most unique places we know. There´s a certain magic in it, the streets, the light (or the lack of it ), the religions, the mixture of people from all over the world, gathered in a peaceful combination.
The shop is very central, close to square Martim Moniz ( 1st stop for the 28 tram) as well to the Castelo de S. Jorge ( Castle of Saint George, the most visited monument in Lisbon)”.

Lisbon Mouraria maze of narrow streets 2015

Lisbon, Mouraria, close to ‘Bike a Wish’ shop: a maze of narrow streets & beautiful light

My 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio is for rent in this area

‘Bike A Wish’ concept: Portuguese pure cycle-chic, extreme comfort & 2 models of e-bikes

Rui Gomes, owner: ‘Our bicycles were thought to give extreme comfort to the users. Soft, old fashioned seats and handles, will allow clients a top biking experience in our 7-hills capital.
Our concept is pure cycle-chic: all bicycles are a Portuguese product, produced by “ÓRBITA.

‘Bike A Wish’ store & extreme comfort: ‘California dream’, a soft old fashioned bike seat  :-)

E-Bikes: Lisbon becomes “flat” for your legs!
Rui Gomes: “the 2 models of e-bikes have an autonomy around 60kms (depending of individual biking experience), allowing visitors to enjoy Lisbon in a comfortable, fast and effortless way. Ride everywhere: Mouraria, Alfama, Bairro Alto, Riverside etc.  Our bike tours allow people to visit the capital’s highlights and explore alternative and picturesque routes. We recommend the West Lisbon Tour, by the river, heading Belém ”

Rui Gomes: “We provide a service with so many flexible options that will certainly suit all your travel plans.

We rent several types of bikes, from the classic ones to folding, tandems and electric bikes. They can be rented by the hour, half-day, day, week or month “.

Bike a Wish store Lisbon Mouraria 10 2

Lisbon ‘Bike A Wish’ store Mouraria, Square Martim Moniz

Price e-bike: from € 10 (1 hour) – € 20 (half day, 4 hours) € 30 (24 hours)

Bike A Wish website: more possibilities, like a tandem bike or guided tours.

Rua das Fontainhas a São Lourenço 29, Martim Moniz, Phone (00351) 211329949, Facebook, Lisboa@bikeawish.com . Business hours: Monday-Saturday 10:00am to 19:00pm GMT |Sundays on the call to deliver or booked tours. Free deliver at hotels in Lisbon.

Fado performance Lisbon in local bars: ‘Tasca do Jaime’ in historic Graça, FADO VADIO (divine song or dying cats?), overpriced wine & very talented Dutch (!) Fado singer Henriquinha

Fado is a part of the culture in Portugal and many Portuguese have the idea they can sing just as wonderful as Carlos do Carmo or like the legendary Amália Rodrigues, Queen of fado, Lady of Lisbon..

Lisbon Hendrinktje tasca do Jaime Graca Libon nov 14

Café/bar ‘Tasca do Jaime’ Lisbon & very talented Dutch Fado singer Henriquinha; Guitarra Portuguesa: Custódio Magalhaes; Viola do Fado: Duarte Nunes

Fadista (fado singer) Henriquinha Maria (Hendriktje Ruiter, born and professionally trained in Holland) is a very talented singer living in Lisbon. She really loves it to sing the fado; now she’s becoming famous in Portugal due to a Fado song contest on Portuguese TV.

YouTube Hendriktje ‘Amor de mel, amor de fel’

Hendriktje Dutch Fado singer Portuguese TV Ha Tarde dec 14 2

Dutch singer Henriquinha Maria & host Herman José on Portuguese TV, ‘Grande Premio do Fado’

Dutch singer Hendriktje Ruiter participates in a Fado talent show on Portuguese TV. After two rounds she won enough points to perform in the semi-final of this song contest in May 2015: spectacular!

‘Sou do Fado’  Henriquinha Portuguese TV Program Há Tarde RTP1

Interested to know where this Dutch fadista will sing in Lisbon? Mail to: hendriktje@gmail.com ; more pictures: facebook ; phone: 00351 917 035 578

Tasca do Jaime lisboa 3 Henriktje  Fado Vadio

Lisbon, cafe/bar ‘Tasca do Jaime’ December 2014 & Fado Vadio (amateur fado)

Amateur setting of Portuguese Fado is called FADO VADIO

In the old neighborhoods of Lisbon there are local bars or tascas where everybody can sing fado (max. 2 songs). Even you, if you might like it! ;) …. In this setting only the guitarists are paid to accompany the singers.

Tasca do Jaime Lisboa Dec 2014

Café/bar ‘Tasca do Jaime’ Lisbon December 2014

Silence

In case you don’t understand the Portuguese language: when the light is dimmed, it means that silence is asked because the music starts.

Lisbon Tasca do Jaime Graca Libon dec 14 2

Tasca do Jaime Graca area Lisbon, FADO VADIO December 2014: fadista Fernanda Proença. (YouTube). This lady has a wonderful voice!

Fado Vadio: ‘Dying cats or divine song’

The Portuguese have a lot of respect for the performers who like to express their emotions. You can enjoy a fado singer who sings so beautiful it will give you goosebumps, followed by someone who think he or she is a really good singer…..

Or, as Tasca do Jaime’s neighbors Mike and Alice described on their blog: ‘ It’s a very authentic little cafe bar in our neighborhood. The fado heard there can sound like dying cats or divine song..’ ;-)

Read more about Fado Vadio….

Tasco Jaime Graca dancing nov 3014

Tasca do Jaime Lisbon, Fado vadio December 2014: Zita & João Soeiro (YouTube)

Café/bar ‘Tasca do Jaime ‘ FADO afternoons & atmosphere

Seven years ago I wrote about this Tasca, but now the atmosphere has changed. The décor is really nice and authentic but the wine and petiscos (tapas) are overpriced: we paid about € 20 pp.  A plate of ham and cheese or pasteis (pastries) and a jarro (garafe, ca. 3 glasses) filled with not the best quality of Portuguese wine :-(   are obliged (on fado afternoons between 16:00 to 20:00). If standing at the counter or on the sidewalk watching pass the electric tram 28, has no such obligation.

Anyway, the performances of the guitar players and the fado singers were very good that day!

Tasca Jaime december 2014 Alexandra e Louis

Tasca do Jaime’ Lisbon December 2014: friends Alexandra & Louis

Café/bar ‘Tasca do Jaime’ Lisbon,  Rua da Graça 91, Lisbon. Fado Vadio on Saturdays, Sundays and public Holidays from 16:00 to 20:00. Phone : 351 21 8881560

Restaurant ‘Ibo’ Lisbon facing the river Tagus: Portuguese sophisticated cuisine, flavours from former colony Mozambique, lovely ladies & tropical African island Ibo

Restaurant Ibo is a remarkable culinary experience! A sunny day, delicious food and a beautiful view over the river Tagus: what more do you want for lunch during a trip to Lisbon? 

Restaurant IBO Lisbon Tagus River 2

Restaurant ‘Ibo’ Lisbon facing the Tagus river: a surprising culinary experience

Lisbon is divided into 2 parts by the river Tagus, Portugal’s longest river. Restaurant ‘Ibo”, situated at the north bank, is housed in a former salt warehouse built in the beginning of the 20th century, next to Cais do Sodré ferry terminal.

IBO Restaurante Erika Reusens flavours from Mozambique 1

Restaurant ‘Ibo’ Lisbon: my friend Erika Reusens likes dishes with flavours from Mozambique

The restaurant’s name refers to an island in the Indian Ocean north of Mozambique: Ibo. We ordered:

Caril de Camarão (shrimp curry) 19 €, Caril de Galinha à Mocambicana (chicken curry) 19 €, a bottle of white wine, Castello D’Alba 18 € (exclusively wines from the best Portuguese producers and winemakers), agua (water) 2 €.

If you are not curious for a different experience: restaurant ‘Ibo‘ also offers Portuguese gastronomy.

Restaurant Ibo Cais do Sodre Lisbon view from terrace

Restaurant ‘Ibo’ Lisbon & wonderful views from the terrace

Former colony of the Portuguese empire

Mozambique became independent in 1975, after over four centuries of Portuguese rule: famous explorer Vasco da Gama reportedly rested on the island in 1502. In the late eighteenth century, Portuguese colonialists built the Fort of São João, which still survives, and the town, as a slave port, became the second most important in the region. Nowadays the beautiful Ibo island is a popular tourist area.

Restaurant Ibo Lisbon facing the Tagus river nov 14

Restaurant ‘Ibo’ Lisbon, a sunny day in November & one of the friendly waiters

Starters: in the more expensive Portuguese restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps.

The waiter will bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (não, obrigado).  In this restaurant you pay 3 € for a starter (some bread, tapenade and humus) which is OK, because sometimes 10/15 € is added for a small starter you did not ask for.

Restaurant Ibo Lisbon facing the Tagus river nov 14 shrimps

Restaurant ‘Ibo’ Lisbon & flavours from former Portuguese colony Mozambique

Camarões selvagens à Laurentina (wild shrimps), € 19: really delicious! Glass of white wine (VB Crasto) € 5.50

Lovely ladies

The waiter told me that Laurentina is Mozambique’s oldest beer brand. The name is dedicated to lovely ladies: ‘laurentinas’ ;-) . Read more…  

Restaurant Ibo Lisbon facing the Tagus river nov 14 papaya desert

Restaurant ‘Ibo’ Lisbon: papaya dessert (sobremesa)….. whow!!  :-)  € 8

This restaurant specializes in the food of Mozambique but adds a few influences from another former Portuguese colony, India’s Goa. The freshness and quality of products is ensured, because the owner, João Pedrosa, daily visits the nearby old and Lisbon’s legendary market Mercado da Ribeira (really worth to go there , only 5 minutes walk).

Restaurant Ibo Lisbon facing the Tagus river ladies toilet

Restaurant ‘Ibo‘ Lisbon: casa do banho (ladies’ room)

Don’t expect an interior decorated with all kinds of art from Africa. There’s a modern and bright decoration inside the restaurant. Until I visited the ladies’ room: a beautiful portrait, this African lady on the wall! But she doesn’t seem to be very happy….

Restaurant Ibo Lisbon facing the Tagus river view from terrace ferry

Restaurant ‘Ibo‘ Lisbon & terrace view: ferry to the other side of the river Tagus

From here you can easily take the ferry (every 10 minutes) to Cacilhas (a part of Lisbon, the other side of the river), return ticket: cheap : more………….

Ibo Restaurante, Cais do Sodré,  Lisbon, Armazem A – Compartimento 2. Phone (00351) 961 332 024. Also open for lunch on Sundays.

Website Ibo restaurant (also in English)