Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: wonderful drawings on the walls of the stairs

‘Pensão Amor’ is located in a typical Portuguese 18th-century building. Once a cheap pension with rooms rented by the hour to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love . Along the 5 floors of the building you can admire remake copies of old posters from burlesque shows and peep shows.

Drawing artists Mario Belem & Hugo ‘Makarov’ Martins’ website and movie

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes

The ceilings of this former ’guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: the pole dance room

Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon

Cais do Sodré  is transformated into a hip and trendy area and Rua Nova do Carvalho is a street lined with hip bars and clubs that become crowded after 2AM when the bars in the legendary area Bairro Alto start to close. More remarkable bars in this street: bar/cafe Sol e Pesca, and Bar da Velha Senhora

‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – Erika Reusens admires the bar in burlesque style

The bar has two entrances:  Rua do Alecrim 19  including an outside café terrace) and on Rua Nova do Carvalho.

Pensão Amor Art & culture, Bars | Cocktails (< 22:00) € 8.00, beer € 3. (+351)213143399. Mon – Wed 12:00 – 02:00, Thu – Fri 12:00 – 04:00, Sat 18:00 – 04:00

 Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – stairs to the bar

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Cascais: in the background the pink-coloured Restaurant bar ‘O Poéta’

Cascais (more pictures and wiki info) is a pleasant mix of history, tourism and local life. Once a small fishing village, nowadays a smart resort town, packed with elegant boutiques, luxury hotels and restaurants. But still many small colourful fishing boats bobbing up and down in the water in front of the village’s sea front. Fresh fish every day!

Fishing boats in the bay of Cascais, Portugal: Praia dos Pescadores

Cascais is situated on the north side of the mouth of the River Tejo which flows through the Portuguese capital, Lisbon. Cascais’ popularity dates from 1870, when King Luís I decided to convert the 17th century Citadela here into his summer residence.

Cascais, very popular place for tourists: Rua Direita

Portuguese pavement workers are real artists: what a lovely design, you feel like you’re walking  on waves like Jesus did  . Cascais is a popular vacation spot for both Portuguese and foreign tourists, with a small city center. One can find quality shops here and once you reach Rua Direita, which is a must when visiting Cascais, the shops are rich and varied.

Terrace restaurant, cafe & bar ’O Poéta’ Cascais, Largo Luís de Camões

Where to find a good restaurant? There are restaurants everywhere but I prefer the friendly atmosphere of restaurant ‘O Poéta’, located in the center of Cascais on a cozy square, Largo Luís de Camões, just near the famous poet’s statue, and just a few steps away from the beach. 

Avoid the agressive waiters on this square trying to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Restaurant/cafe ‘O Poéta’ Cascais

The service is very friendly and the food and the wine are excellent. They serve all different kinds of food, so it’s an ideal place for groups. Football lovers can watch the matches: huge screens are strategically placed outside and inside the restaurant. Locals like this place too!

Restaurant ‘O Poéta’ Cascais: picanha

My almoço (lunch): picanha (delicious rump cover), € 11.50, glass of white wine € 2.75, small bottle of water € 2.00. Fish-lovers will be in seventh heaven here. Try the cataplana, a seafood platter served with rice or potatoes. But they also serve tajines (maroccan dishes, € 14.90) and pasta dishes. There’s also a beautiful restaurant inside on the first floor.

Restaurant/bar ‘O Poéta’ Cascais: owner Ayyildiz (l)

Owner of restaurant ‘O Poéta’ is Ayyildiz. Together with his Portuguese wife Paula he bought the restaurant in 2009.

Ayyildiz: ” I was born in Turkey, at the age of 18 I moved to Holland. During 11 years I worked in several restaurants (he still speaks fluently Dutch). Then I moved to Portugal. Our restaurant is famous for the beef tenderloin and the tournedos (from France). And the fish, like the boneless sea bass. Portuguese people are used to it but most tourists do not like bones”.  Visit ‘O Poeta”s website. Rua Regimento 19 de Infantaria, 55-61 (Largo de Camões), phone (351) 309 900 818, Cascais.

Cascais beach & a lazy Sunday afternoon in September

This beach is only five mins walking distance from restaurant ‘O Poéta’ . But there’s much more to find in Cascais and the Estoril coast, like a vibrant nightlife and a rich cultural life. More: Cascais’ guide  (Cascais and Estoril Coast guide) for travelling and fun information.

Cascais in September

There’s a promenade that connects Cascais to Lisbon providing one of the most spectacular costal walks available, free bike-rental for tourists, and the nearby (5 km, easily accessible by bus or by train) popular Guincho beach is one of the best windsurfing beaches in Europe. Strong northern winds are predominant during summer time (June–August) as well as smaller north-west swells, making this beach ideal for windsurfing and kitesurfing.  YouTube movie Graham goes Guincho

Cascais: Museum Conde Castro Guimarães

This Municipal Museum is near by the sea and it keeps a very original architecture because its aim is to promote art. The palace is from 19th century and it was property of Manuel Castro Guimarães (a Portuguese Count from Cascais). More….

How to get there from Lisbon?

Lisbon, train to Cascais

Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon by train: ‘Linha de Cascais’ (name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) from Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, ferry and trainstation. Return ticket: around 5 euro.

Cascais, September 2011

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Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon – the garden in summertime on a Sunday afternoon

Restaurant Pharmacia is integrated into the Museum of Pharmacy (Museu da Farmácia). In Portuguese farmácia literally means “Drug Store” and it truly holds onto its name, since it is located at the building of the Portuguese National Drug Store Association. The remarkable interior is inspired by classic old pharmacies.

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon – very nice waiters dressed in white lab coats

When you enter the restaurant, you are shown to your table by somebody wearing a white lab coat. The menu is mainly focused on Portuguese cuisine, and “petiscos”  (small dishes), but the restaurant also has a bar, serving all kinds of drinks and light snacks. One of its fine features is the outside terrace. The restaurant does not close after lunch and ‘a la carte’ service throughout the day is available.

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon: long lunch with good friend Erika Reusens

We enjoyed a delicious lunch: Salada Legumes (vegetable salad) € 7,90, Pica Pau Lombo (beef tenderloin) € 8,90, Rolinhos Beringela (eggplant rolls filled with basil and cream cheese) € 6,90, Bat. Fritas (french fries) € 3, bottle of great Portuguese white wine: Passadouro: € 16,00. Agua (bottle of water, 1 liter) € 2. Coffee € 1. Bill: € 45,70. For dinner you also have the choice of a special menu of several dishes (€ 28, without drinks).

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon, integrated into the Museum of Pharmacy

Inaugurated in June 1996, the Pharmacy Museum is the only museum of Universal History in Portugal and one of the most complete in the world. The collection is based on pieces that represent 5000 years of history of health in civilizations as diverse as Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Rome, Greece, Islam, South America, China, Tibet, Japan, Africa, and modern Europe. YouTube movie Pharmacy Museum of Lisbon

Museum open from Monday– Friday: 10am – 6pm. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays.

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon

Inside the building you will find the wall of old medicine cabinets full of glass drug containers, medicine vials, and bottles of all kinds. Also the wallpaper is a tribute to the pharmacy. Your plain water will be served in an old ether bottle, the bottle holder is wearing a red cross logo…

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon: restaurant inside & vintage items

The remarkable interior uses almost exclusively vintage and antique items and some pieces that are on loan from the museum. The menu card is a pharmacy notebook and even your soup will be served in a small vial.

But the comparison with a pharmacy stops here: the food in a hospital is totally different….

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon – bottle of wine served in a measuring cup

Even the bottle of wine is served in a plastic measuring cup…. And the cocktails here all have ’drug’ names, like ‘LSD’ cocktail (whisky and ginjinha). How about a cocktail ‘ibuprofen’ ? (Cachaça licor and lemon juice), or try a paracetamol cocktail (honey, melon and ginger beer) ;-)

Restaurant Pharmacia Lisbon, Rua Marechal Saldanha 1, Lisbon. Phone: (00351) 213 462 146. Open from Tuesday – Sunday from 13:00 – 01:00

Restaurant Pharmacia is overlooking the Tagus river

Miradouro (viewpoint) Adamastor. More……..

……your coffee…….

BTW: famous artist Damien Hirst tried his hand at the restaurant business in 1998 when he opened the art-filled Pharmacy Restaurant + Bar in London. Filled with pseudo-scientific pharmacy-themed items, Hirst curated every design element from metallic pill-printed wallpaper and pill-shaped ashtrays.

More…….

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Cafe/bar “Sol e Pesca“, Lisbon decorated with lovely coloured fish tin cans

This bar used to be an old shop with fishing equipment and that past now inspires the décor (like rods and hooks). Now the shop is also decorated with hundreds of colorful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish.

Cafe/bar “Sol e Pesca“, Lisbon

“Sol e Pesca“ also inspires what is served (or sold to be enjoyed at home), because in addition to the drinks (beer and local wines) it offers tin cans of a variety of fish that, if you like it, can be accompanied by bread and wine.

Mauro Fialho, Cafe/bar “Sol e Pesca“, Lisbon

Nowadays the Cais do Sodré area in Lisbon is a trendy place to go after bars in the Bairro Alto close their doors. You’ll find here some clubs like Roterdão, and Musicbox. In July 2010 “Sol e Pesca” opened its doors. Recently bar ‘Pensão Amor’ was opened (once a cheap pension for prostitutes), and Bar da Velha Senhora is next door.

Cafe` Sol e Pesca`Lisbon: Catarina Rebelo Lucas is preparing the mise en place

Catarina: ” In this area (Cais do Sodré) near the river Tagus there are a lot of shops for fishermen. This typical Portuguese old store closed 20 years ago and all the old stuff associated with fish is still there…

The new owner, sr. Henrique Vaz Pato (pato means duck in Portuguese)      bought the shop and opened cafe ‘Sol e Pesca’ (Sun and Fishing) in July 2010″.

Muxama, a delicacy typical of the south region of the Iberian Peninsula, consisting of filleted salt-cured tuna.

The Arabs developed this salt curing technique and the term muxama comes from the Arab word musama which means “dry”. However, Phoenicians and Romans also used a similar process to preserve the fishes caught until the return of the fishing boats ashore. Nowadays, in Portugal muxama is produced in the Algarve region, following a technique used for more than 1000 years almost unchanged. More……

Delicious! Muxama, salad, sardines, olives, bread, white wine, a small bottle of water: 22 euro

Bar/cafe Sol e Pesca (Sun and Fishing),  Rua Nova de Carvalho 14, Lisbon

Hours: Monday to Friday from 18:00 to 02h00, Saturday from 18.00 to 04h00, closed on Sunday

MINERVA – Portuguese sardines

Minerva is a well-known Portuguese canned fish brand

Lisbon, Cais do Sodré , the new hotspot, December 2011

Nowadays the Cais do Sodré area in Lisbon is a trendy place to go after bars in the nearby Bairro Alto area close their doors

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Appartement in Bairro Alto historisch Lissabon – vanaf 3 nachten 70/80 € per nacht (bij 2 pers., te huur tot 5 pers.).

Voor informatie of reservering van dit appartement kun je mailen naar Julie Kruijs, thelisbonconnection@gmail.com  of bel 0031 6 53941845/ skype: juliekr1956.

Beschikbaarheidskalender

Appartement Bairro Alto hartje Lissabon woonkamer

Dit kleurrijke appartement (70 m) in de Rua da Atalaia Lissabon  is uitermate geschikt voor mensen die van het uitgaansleven houden. Overdag is het pittoreske Bairro Alto erg rustig, er is nauwelijks verkeer, maar s nachts komt de buurt tot leven.

Appartement Bairro Alto historisch Lissabon vanaf het balkon, rond 02:00 uur

Na het stappen hoef je in ieder geval niet met een taxi terug naar huis! Geschikt tot 5 personen. Een slaapkamer ligt aan de achterkant van het appartement, daar hoor je niets en kun je lekker rustig slapen…

Appartement Bairro Alto hartje historisch Lissabon woonkamer & sofabed

Het gebouw is 200 jaar oud, en de stijlvolle inrichting van het appartement is een mix van retro chic en modern. Veel licht, hoge plafonds en een mooie houten vloer.

Dit is typisch historisch Lissabon! Fijne woonkamer met eettafel en stoelen, TV, DVD Playstation en muziek installatie. Op het sofabed kan een vijfde persoon overnachten.

Appartement Bairro Alto hartje Lissabon, straat bij dag vanaf het balkon

In de buurt veel restaurantjes, barrretjes, galeries and alternatieve boetiekjes. Uiteraard ontbreken de fadobars niet. Vlakbij is Miradouro (uitzichtspunt) de São Pedro de Alcântara, een prachtig uitzicht over de oude stad. En ook vlakbij is de wijk Princípe Real, populair bij de gayscene, met antiekwinkels en galeries. En een geweldig park met bijzondere bomen. Unieke bar Pavilhão Chines, dit moet je gezien hebben!

Appartement Bairro Alto hartje Lissabon rustig gelegen slaapkamer met 2 persoonsbed

Er zijn 2 comfortabele slaapkamers, elk met een 2-persoonsbed en uitstekende matrassen. In de compleet ingerichte keuken staat een grote koelkast, een magnetron, een fornuis en een ontbijttafel.

Appartement Bairro Alto hartje historisch Lissabon, keuken

Prijzen:

€ 70 per nacht voor 2 personen (laag seizoen), € 80 per nacht voor 2 personen (hoog seizoen: juli/aug.)

€ 90 per nacht voor 3 personen

€100 per nacht voor 4 personen

€ 115 per nacht voor 5 personen (sofabed)

Schoonmaakkosten € 50, bedlinnen en handdoeken aanwezig. Gratis gebruik van internet.

Minimum verblijf: 3 nachten. 10 % korting voor een verblijf van 7 nachten of meer.

Badkamer appartement Bairro Alto Lissabon: ligbad met douche, wastafel, bidet, wc en handdoeken

YouTube video tour: een rondleiding in het appartement

In- en uitchecken: inchecken vanaf 15:00, uitchecken vanaf 11:00, (overleg is mogelijk). Toeslag later inchecken € 30 tussen 22:00 en 08:00. Roken is toegestaan, huisdieren ook. Feestjes geven is niet toegestaan.

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June 12, historic area Mouraria Rua da Guia Lisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!

June 2011: Mouraria Lisbon, Santo António, Rua João do Outeiro.

Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint

Santo António (Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, the oldest areas of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria in June, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights. My 3-bedroom apartment with patio is for rent in this area (short term rentals)

June 12 in Lisbon: Adamastor, Santa Catarina  near the Tagus River, a popular viewpoint & gathering place.

In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.

Lisbon, June 12, Bairro Alto area

The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘

June 12, 2011. Famous Bica funicular Lisbon, a popular tourist attraction

Partying in the small streets around the famous Bica funicular, highly valued by tourists.

A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto , possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B , Lisbon

On June 12 the festivities in Lisbon already start around noon, and everywhere you hear music coming out of the cafes and restaurants. Even this beggar started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Historical area Mouraria in June: Rua da Guia, Lisbon

In the month of June all the narrow streets in Lisbon’s historical areas are packed with stalls selling sangria and beer. Everywhere there’s the sizzling aroma of grilled sardines – the traditional food of the Saint Anthony celebrations are grilled sardines - but you can also go for barbecued chicken, chouriços (sausage) or pork.

June 12 Lisbon historical area : Arraial da Mouraria, dancing in the streets

There’s lots of dancing through the night. The best thing to do is just keep going and enjoy! Throughout old Lisbon there are ‘arraiais‘ (open air parties). The party goes on until dawn. More about Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria

Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon - pots with manjerico (basil)

During this festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30pm, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides. Youtube movie Saint Anthony festivities 2011

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Famous Praça do Comércio  , one of the most majestic squares in Lisbon

Terreiro do Paço (or Praça do Comerçio, Palace Square) is a favorite tourist place and one of the largest historical squares in Europe. Now this monumental riverside square also offers a combination of cultural and culinary enjoyment, here you’ll find the Portuguese Tourist Office and besides it’s a wonderful location for events and exhibitions.

Lounge area restaurant Aura, square Praça do Comerçio Lisbon

Integrated in Pátio da Galé, restaurant & lounge cafe Aura with it’s open air terrace is a very attractive place surrounded by the ‘ Palace Square’ in Lisbon. It has a glamorous inside dining room, and a lounge area to enjoy a cocktail or a tasty gourmet snack (tapas Portuguesas).

Restaurant Aura Lisbon outside dining Praça do Comerçio, June 2011

The Portuguese cuisine is prepared by Chef Matias Duarte and gourmet stylist Fabrice Marescaux. The menu is inspired by favorite dishes of the Portuguese people.

A lot of Portuguese restaurants in Lisbon are closed on Sundays, but restaurant Aura is open 7 days a week from 7:30 AM to 02:00 AM. Website restaurant Aura

Our small table outside: Restaurant Aura Lisbon, June 2011

Our choice: salmão croustade de camarão (salmon crusted shrimp), pato (duck), salad, a small bottle of good Portuguese white wine, bread, 2 bicas (strong coffee) and 2 bottles of water. The bill came to around € 60.

Restaurant Aura Lisbon glamourous dining room

The inside dining room of restaurant Aura has an ‘aura of glamour’ . Most Portuguese people prefer to enjoy their lunch or dinner inside while the majority of tourists like to enjoy their dinner outside. In case it’s too cold outside, this place is really worth a visit: delicious food in an elegant surrounding.

Restaurant Aura June 2011 ‘ Apéritif à la française’, June 8, 2011

In June 2011, the ‘Apéritif à la française’ in Portugal (Lisbon and Porto), teamed up with Portuguese wines to toast just how well the two countries’ culinary traditions go together. Journalists, industry professionals and opinion leaders enjoyed samplings of French products paired with a range of Portuguese wines in a lounge-style atmosphere.

Entrance Restaurant Aura  - ‘Apéritif à la française’ June 2011

Apéritif à la française’  is a multi-country event, where lovers of French-style ‘art de vivre’ and those curious to learn more about it come together . Delicious French snacks were served.  Unfortunately, also ‘foie gras’…..

ViniPortugal, Maria João Menezes – Managing Director Lisbon: free Portuguese wine tasting & tourist information Praça do Comerçio, Lisbon

Are you a wine lover? Just three minutes walk from restaurant  Aura there’s ViniPortugal, where you can taste a few wines for free. A very pleasant and interesting way to learn more about history and culture of Portuguese wines! Some wines available for tasting can also be purchased and the very friendly and professional staff is always on hand to provide information of the wines currently available.

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‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

This wonderful small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary flea market Feira da Ladra (a must see when you visit Lisbon) or after visiting the National Pantheon (on the background), in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like for example Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Clara Clara terrace & view on the Tagus river, Lisbon

This garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids – and also offers Wi-Fi. A little further down, there is a playground. 

Playground and game tables for children – kiosk cafe Clara Clara Lisbon

As for the menu, the cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Clara Clara terrace in summertime

An inviting terrace in summertime: you can cool off under the trees of the garden. The kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in sumertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Nothing better than a tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) on a cold afternoon. The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn)

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Rua do Salvador/corner Rua de São Tomé, Alfama Lisbon

Here you will find a real Portuguese atmosphere, quite close to the famous viewpoint and tourist attraction Portas do Sol

Rua do Salvador is named after the city of Salvador in Brazil, a former Portuguese colony (from 1500-1825). Historic name: Cidade de São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos ( ”City of the Holy Savior of the Bay of all Saints”).

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Lisbon, typical Portuguese restaurant

Small restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a real tasca, serving affordable good Portuguese standard snacks and dishes, also loved by locals. Typical in historic area Alfama is a singing canary (or other types of birds, like a parrot) in a small cage hanging from windows and doors.

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Alfama, Lisbon, in the afternoon

Tourist menu 7 euro (starter, main course and dessert). Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a traditional Portuguese family restaurant. The atmosphere is very relaxed, the food is cheap but tasty.

Typical in historic area Alfama in Lisbon: a singing bird in a cage, this very nice bird is a Katara

Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ in Alfama is open from Monday to Saturday from 11:00h until 24:00h. Closed: Sunday. In the smaller restaurants in Lisbon the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth and you can pay cash only.

Rua do Salvador, Lisbon

While walking around in this narrow old street you will discover hard working people and small shops.

Tiago Praça in his atelier, pottery Olaria Lisbon, Rua do Salvador 57

Rua do Salvador 57: pottery Olaria, handmade ceramics, tiles and much more. Probably the only pottery in Lisbon working with wheels. Here you can find a nice Portuguese souvenir from 2 euros.

Vintage store & atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Alfama Lisbon

Designer Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975 . In 2010 Alberto opened his atelier/store in Rua do Salvador.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Here you can find all kinds of cool vintage stuff and old-fashioned suitcases decorated with original Portuguese magazines, created by Alberto. Blog: coisasdoalberto

Suitcase created by Alberto: Amália Rodrigues, Lisbon’s ‘Queen of Fado’

Alberto Gourgel: “I like this very old street in Alfama, it’s a mix of old and modern Lisbon. The owner of the fish shop next door sells fish while singing fado songs. Besides I’m very glad to rent this place quite close to the  “Feira da Ladra’, Lisbon’s famous flea market“.

This legendary flea market is held every Tuesday and Saturday from dawn to dusk, visited by lots of tourists from all over the world.

Atelier/store Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Alberto: “I often find nice old stuff at auctions. Portugal is a poor country and in the past people bought their furniture when they got married for the rest of their lives. When they die the furniture often is sold at auction. Young people here like going to Ikea. But it’s not only a business, I really like what I do”.

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Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez

Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.

Legendary Fado singer Maria Severa

Maria Severa, the first Fadista , who died at age 26 in1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis, was born in this area. A very sad story! Famous performer of Fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ , was born near Mouraria , Rua Martim Faz. No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria.

Carlos Fernandez

Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.

Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts (castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra (litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.

‘Old tram 28′ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez

The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.

Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material

The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!

Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines. Authentic apartment for rent in this 900 years old area of Lisbon

Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.

Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building

In February an exposition was held in a small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).

If you are interested to see more of Carlos’ work (and prices), you can send him an email: fadonavalhasesangue@gmail.com

Tourists are interested to see the exposition, Santa Luzia

Besides: Santa Luzia is a very popular and historical viewpoint (miradouro) in Lisbon, next to viewpoint Portas do Sol. Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus!

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