First, the apartment itself was quite fine, it had everything we needed, including fast and reliable internet, well equipped kitchen, ARTE, etc. but its real jewel is the garden: huge, private, and delightful. One has to have a garden in the mediterraenean climate and no mere terrace can serve as a substitute. (Not even remotely).

Secondly, the neighborhood was fantastic — smack down between the upmarket Avenidas Novas with all their department stores, cinemas, museums, supermarkets and libraries, all within walking distance, and Arroio, a very atmospheric working class neighborhood with great markets and very good prices in restaurants and shops. Estefania is a fantastic place to eat out — delicious mom and pop shops with great food cheap as anything in lisbon, five pastellerias just around the corner, and ***NOT one tourist in sight***. Yet, for all this, Chiado, Baixia and Alfama are easily reached by public transport, and even at night a taxi isn’t more than 5 euros. There are numerous direct buses to Belem.

Last, but not least, the landlady: fun but very tactful, she solved all our problems immediately and was a fount of knowledge and advice throughout our stay.

Very highly recommended.