Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgilio, the cook, preparing my lunch

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose!) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meio dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria, has only begun recently.

Also delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 14. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa  is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

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Largo do Carmo, March 2010

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (”And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started. More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

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It’s a great place to walk around and kids have fun here! It has small lakes, a library kiosk and a beautiful bandstand. In summer months, you may occasionally find musicians giving live concerts inside the park.

Enjoy great moments of nature in the center of a big city…

An oasis of peace and tranquility…..

Wonderful exotic trees

This magnificent garden (founded in 1852) is a must-see in Lisbon. These pictures were taken at the end of November. In summertime flowers are beautifully scattered throughout the entire garden.

The garden has everything that children seek: a well-equipped children’s playground.

Jardim da Estrela, Praça da Estrela, open daily from 07:00 – 24:00. Free entrance. Metro: Rato. Tram: 25 and 28

Dogs have fun here. There are lots of dogs in Lisbon, and most of them are quite happy..

Opposite the park: Basilica da Estrela  church , one of the most brilliant constructions of late Baroque, with already neoclassical elements

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The (yellow) and famous tourist attraction funicular in Bica. Artist Alexandre Farto  covered the outside of the funicular with mirror-acrylic, called it ’Espectro’  (Spectre) and pays tribute to the neighbourhood that is reflected in the lift during the journey, as if it were a film…. (From January – June 2010). Amazing!

This project  ‘Art in movement’  (”Arte em Movimento”) is part of a Cultural Program for the promotion of Public Art, which CARRIS  (bus & tram services including timetables) intends to carry out in some vehicles of its public service fleet. In 2010, the chosen vehicles were one lift (the Santa Justa) and the 3 funiculars, all of them are national monuments since 2002.

Typical Portuguese:  hanging laundry, drying in the wind.

It climbs the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo for 245 metres from the Rua Sao Paulo.

Largo de Santo Antoninho, right next to Bica’s funicular downhill starting point.

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“” Passeio o seu cão de saquinho na mão!” ‘Take your dog for a walk with a poop bag in your   hand!”

I saw this funny poster near one of my favorite places in Lisbon,  Miradouro da Graça. a splendid viewpoint offering a panoramic view of the castle and central Lisbon. The open-air cafe and its relaxing atmosphere is a favorite with young locals, especially in late afternoon. During the summer it remains open well into the night.

Home made coats… Feira da Ladra, Lisbons’ legendary flea market in wintertime (about 18 degrees C…..)

This one has very sad eyes….near the church in Rosssio, close to Palácio da Independência (Palace of Independece) and the famous small  ‘A Ginjinha’ cafe.

Rua da Costa do Castelo, walking up to the old castelo São Jorge (Castle of Saint George), located on the highest of the seven hills of the historic center of the city.

Alfama, at lunch time (almoço). The most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon.   I manage to get lost every time I walk there…! It’s still like a kasbah, this labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog….

One of my favourite places and of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city. The entrance of Cafe Noobai is located on Miradoura de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor. This bar and restaurant is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tejo river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people.

Picture: haiamisa

In Lisbon there are many beggars on the streets. Sadly enough some of them use animals and many tourists give money to this boy. The dog doesn’t look very happy on the street in the heat of the summer……you’ll find him ‘working’ in the city center Baixa.

Praça Dom Pedro IV  at Christmas time 2009

Portuguese Water Dog (picture: Chicago Tribune)

Obama’s daughter Malia walks the First Family’s new puppy, Bo, on the grounds of the White House.

So far, I never saw a Portuguese ‘Water Dog’ in Lisbon…… But maybe Obama bought him because these very smart dogs were often taken with sailors during  the overseas Portuguese discoveries ? 

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Avenida da República near Saldaña square. A must-do is to have breakfast or lunch in the wonderful old tea- and lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles (opened in 1922) which has it’s own bakery.

Praça Duque de Saldaña. Monument of the great liberal Marshal who gives the square its name. Designed by Thomaz Costa and Ventura Terra, unveiled in 1909. The base of the monument contains a bronze figure of victory. At Saldaña Square there’s the highly frequented cinema Monumental where many young Portuguese meet in the bar of the cinema, ‘Movies’ .

Famous restaurant Galeto, a classic spot. Avenida Da República, 14. Open from 07.30 am – 03.30 (!). Delicious food and quite cheap (dinner and snacks). Galeto is well known in Lisbon for its friendly and courteous service.

Market mercado de Arroios , fresh fish, flowers and fruit. Arroios is a very atmospheric working class neighborhood with great markets and very good prices in restaurants and shops.

Estefania: a nice and very quiet area, with lots of typical Portuguese small business ‘mom and pop’ and food shops.

Rua Ilha da Terceira, Estefania. To eat out, try the pastelerias (cheap small restaurants, great Portugese food). Not one tourist in sight…..Chiado, Baixia and Alfama are easily reached by public transport, and even at night a taxi isn’t more than 5 euros.

The bill? Grilled salmon 5,50 euro, soup 0,90. A glass of wine 0,75.

Luxury shopping center Saldanha, quite near Avenida da Liberdade, (Liberty Avenue). This broad boulevard is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees in Paris with lots of luxury boutiques selling international brands. 

Marquis of Pombals’ statue , a despotic marquis….more…..The Rotunda, or, officially, Praça do Marqués de Pombal

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Restaurant Solar do Duque. Calcada do Duque  is a street made of hundreds of stairs, lined with lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants, near Largo Duque de Cadaval , a square full of open-air cafes near the beautiful Rossio Station. 

Around the Castle of St. Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge), the tiny and partially restored ancient neighborhood of Santa Cruz do Castelo , is one of the most picturesque parts of Lisbon.

Mouraria, Rua dos Cavaleiros. From here, you can walk to a beautiful viewpoint over the city, Miradouro da Graça.

Bairro Alto 

Bairro Alto. During daytime, the famous Bairro is a very quiet district, it’s really worth it to walk around: trendy shops, art galleries and fashion. At night, bars suddenly appear everywhere from behind the shutter doors.

Quite close to the historic Alfama neighborhood, a very nice street to walk around at Lisbon’ city center is Rua dos Bacalhoeiros (street of the cod fish sellers).

Alfama (more…..)

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Mercearia Castello Cafe, a bit tucked away on a tiny street, Rua das Flores de Santa Cruz behind the Castle, opens in summertime a small outdoor seating just around the corner. Quiche and salads, coffee and toast, this cafe is a great place to stop for a snack or a light meal after visiting the Castle.

Rua Bartolomeu do Gusmão, just near the Castle. The neighborhood is very charming, it’s really nice to walk through the cobbled small streets. Costa do Castelo features some of the most spectacular viewpoints of Lisbon.

A 10 minutes walk away from this street is a great cafe/bar overlooking the river Tagus, 25 April bridge and the city, ‘O Terraço‘, spectacular views!

Rua do Espírito Santo…. normal life is going on, quietly, nobody takes attention to the tourists. This hilly part of Lisbon, located in the highest hill of the historic centre,  is one of the main historical and tourist sites.

Travessa do Funil A rainy day, February 2009. Guests of Boutique Hotel ‘Solar do Castelo’   are picked up.

 more…..  an idea to walk up the hill to the Castle

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Very creative, very sweet, but delicious: ‘coelinho‘ (small rabbit): 1,30 euro

The interior has not changed since it was opened, and this teahouse is very popular with locals who cannot pass up the oportunity of good tea (chã), with traditional (and fabulous) Portuguese sweets and pastries.

Confeitaria Nacional launched the “Bolo Rei” (The Kings Cake), customarily associated with Christmas (who gets the bean?) brought to Portugal by the son of the founder in the middle of the 19th Century.

Tearoom upstairs. Taste the most typical Portuguese cakes, such as Queijadas de Sintra or Doces de Ovos de Aveiro , a sweet paste made with just eggs and sugar.

Confeitaria Nacional , Praça da Figueira 18B, Lisbon, more…. 

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Campo dos Mártires da Pátria, view on castle of São Jorge . Students are taking a break in the park. Here you find the memorial statue of Dr. Sousa Martins, erected in 1904, outside the main Faculty of Medicine, historic City Campus of the University of Lisbon, home to several faculties including Law and Medicine.

The nearby lovely large tree-lined park (Jardim da Cordoaria) and small cafe “O Coreto’ (the Kiosk). You can walk down the hill, not too steepy, to the center’s Rossio Square with many restaurants and shopping zones. A few pictures from my walk starting at Rua Manuel Bento de Sousa:

Hospital São José, near the Faculty of Medicine. It is said that funeral cars are waiting here in line, like a taxi queue, to be the first one to pick up a dead body…anyway, when I was passing by I saw a truck delivering new coffins…..

Hospital São José , ortopedia entrance at Rua de Sao Lazaro.

Walk until Travessa do Hospital and go right. Hospital São José is an immense building, strechting out toward Praça Martim Moniz.

View on Castle São Jorge

View from the hospital’s parking lot

Beautiful entrance at Rua José a Serrano. The name of the hospital São José is paying hommage to King Joseph I.

Rua do Arco da Graça. On the left side of this street, a lot of new apartments are being built.

Rossio Square beautiful and very popular tourist attraction.

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