There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazémdas Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owner makes me feel like buying a lot.. ! 🙂
Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017
Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldasopened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).
Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs
I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’
Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazémdas Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.
The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.
Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor.. and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !
Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love
In 1891 designer RafaelBordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂
Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history
The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!
There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….
Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints
Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉
Prima uitgangspunt om Lissabon te ontdekken, ook voor senioren, hartje stad. Direct van eigenaar, verhuur sinds 2006. Heerlijke- en rustige privé patio (30 m2). Informeer naar aanbiedingen. € 60-70 per nacht met 2 personen. vanaf 3 nachten.
Prive patio (ommuurd en rustig) & vrienden Rob en Felipe
€ 60– 70 per nacht met 2 pers. Met 4-6 pers. € 100/120 p.n. Bij 5 of meer nachten 10 % korting. Kinderkorting. Hartje stad, nabij metro vanaf het vliegveld en startpunt trammetje 28. Patio (rustig, 30 m2) met 2 BBQ’s waar gerookt kan worden. Facebook
Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een oude multiculturele (volks)wijk en toch typisch Portugees, met fado restaurantjes.
Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer november 2016
In de buurt: bakkers met heerlijke verschillende soorten verse broodjes) en onweerstaanbaar lekkere Portugese gebakjes, zoals bijvoorbeeld het beroemde roomtaartje Pastel de Nata: een caloriebom 🙂
Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer december 2017
Restaurantjes in de buurt
De supermarkt is 10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement, er zijn veel kleine winkeltjes in de buurt en typisch Portugese restaurantjes (ca. 9 euro p.p.). Het is veelal goedkoper om uit eten te gaan dan om zelf te koken.
Het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ‘s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer. .
Mouraria apartement Lissabon: Paula Ferreira verzorgt de (uitstekende) schoonmaak
woonkamer met 2-zits comfortabele (slaap)bank en grote antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel met 4 stoelen (Linum, ook geschikt voor terras) en een gemakkelijke extra stoel (Linum). Originele balkenvloer in alle kamers. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas aan de straatkant. Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 81 cm LCD TV, radio, CD-speler, WiFi-aansluiting;
3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat):
slaapkamer met 2 een-persoons (boxspring, 90×200) bedden, aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast en een gemakkelijke stoel. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas;
tweede rustig gelegen slaapkamer (met raam, uitzicht op de tuin van de buren) en een 2-persoons bed (210×180), antieke linnenkast;
derde rustige slaapkamer (met raam naar de patio) en comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200);
Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr. en babybadje;
badkamer met douche, ligbad en toilet. Gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid handdoeken van goede kwaliteit (geen strandlakens). Haardroger;
zonnige (van half maart tot eind september) en rustige prive patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 2 comfortabele stoelen, 3 bamboe stoeltjes en een zonne/slaap stoel. Comfortabele Linux stoelen uit kamer en slaapkamer kunnen ook buiten gebruikt worden. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2 BBQs en 2 muurparasols;
de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Mobiel airco apparaat. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden via Heatwafer ecopanelen in iedere kamer.
Startpunt legendarische gele tram 28: 5 minuten lopen vanaf het appartement
Een ‘must do’ Lissabon attractie: het legendarische trammetje 28, startpunt is vlakbij het appartement. Een ideale- en goedkope manier om de historische wijken van Lissabon te zien en de ‘miradouros’ (mooie uitkijkpunten) over de rivier De Taag.
Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 2e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar de tuin van de buren
‘Fábrica Lisboa’ has its own production, which means that croissants, bread, pies or cakes are constantly coming out of the oven in front of the customers. Traditional portuguese soups, sandwiches made with rustic bread, pies and fresh salads are also served.
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon
Funny Portuguese vintage decoration
When you pass through Rua da Madalena and you hear a bell it’s fresh bread/croissant time!
But this space really deserves a longer visit to appreciate the vintage decoration with delightful and funny details, like old scales, bottles, bread boxes, old phones or pornographic cassettes. Even the coffee machine is vintage…… !
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & my favorite croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa)
Among the things of the past, take your time to enjoy a ‘late breakfast’ or a snack with salad or scrambled eggs with ham, accompanied by rustic bread.
Croissants ‘old nunnery style’
There«s more than 10 different croissants, from simple (plain, € 1.20), old nunnery style (with sweet-soft egg cream, € 1.20, created by nuns who lived in monasteries with a lot of chickens in the garden… 🙂 to extra large: 2 fried eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, salad and chips ( € 7.00).
My favorite: a sweet croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa) € 2,20.
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : friend Margriet de Vrieze loves this place. Tea (chá) € 1.75
Cartoon character Zé Povinho – symbol of the Portuguese working-class
The cartoon character Zé Povinhowas created by satirist and designer Bordalo Pinheiro in 1875, a symbol of the Portuguese working-class people, as a caricature for the protest against the politics and the high taxes for the simple population. Still nowadays every child in Portugal knows Zé Povinho. ‘Zé’ (José or Joseph in English), ‘Povinho’ is a diminutive for ‘Povo’, which means ‘people’.
Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & Zé Povinho, symbol of the Portuguese working-class people
Ceramics from Caldas da Rainha
Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon, is well known for its wonderful ceramic pottery with a long tradition. The output includes large decorative pieces, crockery, tableware and decorative objects, famous all over the world for its unique (and sometimes funny) designs. Where to find in Lisbon: More…
Why is there a ceramic penis between the vintage decoration? Some centers of ceramic production in Caldas da Rainha has a tradition of phalluses and amusing phallic symbols. The tradition is said to have started in Caldas when King Dom Luis, who ruled from 1861 to 1889, suggested that local potters create something more interesting 😉 Penis-shaped ceramics
At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages).
The narrow streets in Bairro Alto(at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.
All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.
Historical area Mouraria in June
Sardines (sardinhas) & the Saint festivities belong together
There’s also the grilled sardines, you can smell it everywhere in the streets! It’s not a good time for sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.
Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems
As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.
During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts
Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂
“não digas que não amas – “do not say you don’t love me pois tens a voz a tremer – because your voice is trembling quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim um sim pretender dizer” – it is “yes” you mean to say….
The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish
It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017
Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??
O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego.. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017
Portuguese history &Casas de Pasto (pasture house)
The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.
Lisbon people(Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.
With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal
Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.
Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356.
On Christmas Eve , December 24, mosts restaurants are closed from lunchtime. Families gather around the Christmas tree. Many attend the Midnight Mass (Missa do Galo). After mass they gather around the table and have supper.
In the best of Portuguese traditions, a shower of light and colour will flood Lisbon’s most famous square, with a fireworks display to the sound of the twelve gongs. From 22:00 there’s a stage with live concerts with famous Portuguese names and plenty of entertainment. Also in Parque das Nações there is a fireworks show near the river.
Traditional Portuguese New Years cake
Feliz Natal! (Happy New Year!). Traditional is Bolo Rei (Kings’ cake). This fruitcake is a typically New Years cake, but is becoming popular during Christmas Holidays. In the cake there are two surprises: one is a little present, the other one is not welcomed: a raw broad bean. Whoever gets this bean has to buy the Bolo Rei in the coming year.
Looking for an apartment at Christmas time in the historical center of Lisbon?You’re welcome!
It is called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer). The Portuguese celebrate it with jeropiga (a sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).
On Saint Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire, where they roast chestnuts and drink água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent alcohol).
Chestnuts and jeropiga
Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.
A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music. Avoid most of the Fado houses in area Bairro Alto; what you’ll hear has nothing to do with pure fado. You pay too much, and also the food is too overpriced! Good fado has its home in historical areasAlfamaor Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria’, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista: ‘Maria da Severa’ .
Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.
Usually the fado singing starts from 10pm.
Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon
No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.
It is said that Maria da Severawas born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter. After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.
People who like to gather here are musicians, actors, journalists and residents of surrounding neighborhoods. Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.
Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon, a part of the audience (in wintertime).
You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks. We sat on one of the tables with a typical colourful tablecloth and waited for what was to come. We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm) It is a small space with ten tables, so if you wish to dine here, make a reservation.
Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres
Dinner & fado music: € 25- 30 per person
Our dinner: Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans, a free ‘tapa’), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver) € 13,90, bacalhau (cod fish) € 16,90, bife € 15,90, and 2 bottles of red wine € 21,80 (around € 25 per person).
Retratos do Fado – Um tributo à Mouraria. (Portraits of Fado – A tribute to Mouraria). This is a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas with a strong connection to the neighbourhood. A great idea! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson, who has been living in the area for 6 years.
Together with Alfama, Mouraria is the oldest part of Lisbon. Sometimes tourists are told this is a “dangerous ” neighborhood. But the reality is that this area is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. The Mouraria district is less touristy and therefore much purer but more impoverished. Currently, the district is gradually renovated.
Lisbon in June: wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado,pimbamusic and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets of the historical areas.
On the eve of Saint Anthony day, the ‘matchmaker ‘ (Santo António, June 13), Lisbon turns into a huge open air party!
June 12, party time! Historic area Mouraria Rua da GuiaLisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)
In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!
Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint
Santo António(Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon.
Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.
In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.
The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘
A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto, possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.
Even the beggar near the cafe started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.
Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon – pots with manjerico (basil) & small love poems
Basil & love poems
During the Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.
Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession
At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides.
Artist Carlos Fernandez was born and raised in Mouraria, a historic (old Moorish) down town area in Lisbon. Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.
Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez
Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.
Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.
Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.
Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)
Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts(castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra(litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.
‘Old tram 28’ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez
The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.
Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’
In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.
Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material
The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John(June 23-24) and Peter(June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!
Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines.
Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.
Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building
An exposition was held in this beautiful small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).