Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgilio, the cook, preparing my lunch

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose!) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meio dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria, has only begun recently.

Also delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 14. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa  is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

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Praça da Figueira

Remarkable: from the 16th to the 19th centuries, Brazil was a colony of Portugal

Rúa Augusta, Lisbon’s famous boulevard and one of the best-known shopping streets

Beautiful Portuguese girls

Catarina Tomais da Silva and Rui, waiters in Pastelaria Casa Brasilia (very popular and delicious food!) Rua Augusta 267

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B near Praça da Figueira . In the month of June all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights (Festas Populares)

Inside the restaurant

…and of course the elephant sound of the vuvuzelas!

After the match…..Portugal vs Brazil: 0-0: both countries happy

Holland vs Brazil, near the famous Rossio Station. A big screen at Largo Duque de Cadaval, a beautiful place, full of open sunny open-air cafes and restaurants.

Holland vs Brazil: 3-1. Dutch and Brazilian football fans are watching the game.

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Largo do Carmo, March 2010

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (”And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started. More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

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After the city of Lisbon was hit by an outbreak of cholera in 1833, causing thousands of deaths,  it was urgent to create a large cemetery for both rich and poorer victims. It has the weird name of  Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’, called after the nearby neighborhood (Prazeres) with the same name. Many of its tombs are big mausoleums, some with the size of small chapels.

Once you enter the cemetery the sound of the city fades and the tranquility overwhelms you. Beautiful trees, a strange atmosphere and joyful singing of birds. You imagine yourself walking in a previous century, only disturbed by plane noise, rather loud, every 10 minutes. The cemetery is located close to the landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport. As far as I know nobody here seems to complain

Most of the Prazeres mausoleums belong to rich, old or ‘important’ families, like f.i. the Palmela family. Many of the mausoleums are richly elaborated, have fine sculptures and decorations. There are also statues of the deceased. It’s like a ‘city in a city’ for the dead, with well-defined lanes (70! ) and funerary chapels that were built to look like little houses.

The unusual about a lot of these graves is that they have little “front doors” with glass windows through which you can see the caskets and remnants of the dead and their visitors. Most of the trees are a species cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), much used in Portuguese cemeteries.

The cemetery also provides great views over the Alcântara valley, the river Tagus and the 25 April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

Until 1985, the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was burried here. Thereafter his mortal remains were transferred to the cloisters of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

An example of a ’front door’ with glass windows through which you can see the caskets.

The cemetery, one of the largest of the Portuguese capital, can be reached by taking Electrico 28, which is a traditional and charming Lisbon tram, to its last stop in Prazeres. Open every day of the week from 09:00 – 17:00 (May – September 09:00 – 18:00). Largo dos Prazeres, Praça São João Bosco  More about cemeteries in Portugal

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The (yellow) and famous tourist attraction funicular in Bica. Artist Alexandre Farto  covered the outside of the funicular with mirror-acrylic, called it ’Espectro’  (Spectre) and pays tribute to the neighbourhood that is reflected in the lift during the journey, as if it were a film…. (From January – June 2010). Amazing!

This project  ‘Art in movement’  (”Arte em Movimento”) is part of a Cultural Program for the promotion of Public Art, which CARRIS  (bus & tram services including timetables) intends to carry out in some vehicles of its public service fleet. In 2010, the chosen vehicles were one lift (the Santa Justa) and the 3 funiculars, all of them are national monuments since 2002.

Typical Portuguese:  hanging laundry, drying in the wind.

It climbs the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo for 245 metres from the Rua Sao Paulo.

Largo de Santo Antoninho, right next to Bica’s funicular downhill starting point.

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March 2010. Fábulas is showing the latest wonderful works by a Polish artist, Joanna Latka (r), currently living in Portugal, actively integrated in the Lisbon art scene with a Masters in Fine Art.

The stone arches give this space a unique characteristic. Antique furniture where some tables are old sewing machines.

Our choice: Cuzcus Prince (€ 7), soup (€ 2,60), glass of wine (€ 2,40). The atmosphere is very relaxed, it’s also a great place for lunch or just lounging.

The menu honors the fables (Fábulas means fables in Portuguese), like Cinderela, a delicious warm pumpkin salad, spinach and chevre foam…or Figaro, (chickpea, pumpkin, eggplant, cherry tomato and goat cheese….)

The exhibitions are organized by Galeria das Salgadeiras 

Joanna Latka, fine art printmaking – illustration – drawing

Continually producing for exhibitions, presently incorporating unique variations of contemporary ink techniques in illustration and etching – inspired from personal life-experience and autobiographical interpretations.

Fábulas, Calçada Nova de São Francisco, 14, (00351) 213 476 323, open from 10:00 – 24:00, Saturday from 10:00 – 01:00, Sunday from 11:00 – 19:00. Highly recommended!

In summertime it has a pleasant terrace on the sidewalk.

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Camões Square (Praça Luís de Camões), just behind Camões’ statue , close to the statue of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Pessoa (1888-1935),  still mobbed by many tourists nowadays and a good, cheap and traditional Portuguese restaurant ‘Casa da India’.

Park Principe Real

After shopping people like to take a break in this wonderful park with lots of exotic plants and trees, near Bairro Alto, posssibly one of the best (and gay) spots in Europe for a night out! Les Mauvais Garçons , popular and ”très-chic” cafe/restaurant.  

Nearby you’ll find the  Botanical garden , one of Europe’s finest.

Kiosk Rua Dom Pedro

Rua Dom Pedro V  is a wonderful avenue for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

 Largo Trindade Coelho

Small kiosk near ‘Casa da Comida’ (’ the house of food’), a new cafetaria/ restaurant in the wonderful bamboo garden of Museum São Roque. This museum and church is home to Italian art from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Cais do Sodré

Cais do Sodré  is Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation ( ‘Linha de Cascais’  name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) and ferry terminal. A major bus station is sited outside the front of the Cais do Sodré station, with a Carris  small kiosk selling transport passes, tickets and guides.

On the background Restaurant Marisqueira ‘Guarda Rio’, overlooking the river Tagus, the marisqueira (seafood) is unfailingly fresh!

Viewpont Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This wonderful belvedere will give you a unique insight into the city and magnificent views on the old Moorish castle Castelo de São Jorge.

Above Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra .  The Moorish influence is still present in Alfama and in Mouraria, where the Moors kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area. Authentic 3-bedroom apartment with patio for rent in this old Moorish quarter

After browsing the market it’s a good idea to have lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao de Santa Clara’  just above the market, serving real Portugese food for a good price.

‘Adamastor’, a popular gathering place in Lisbon overlooking the Tagus river, which is officially called the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. From this vista point you have the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, nearby my favorite cafe/bar Noobai 

Kiosk Rua de São Paulo, near Cais do Sodré  station and, on the other side of the road,  Mercado da Ribeira (famous market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome.

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But it’s really worth taking a ferry at Cais do Sodré  to Montijo, walk around in this picturesque village, have lunch and take a bus to the centre of Alchochete and walk to the beach called Samouco (ca. 15 min.)

Beautiful views: Lisbon city and the 25 April Bridge. 

The ferry trip to Montijo takes about 20 minutes and give you a chance to enjoy the river and the views of Lisbon and the surrounding areas. Return ticket: euro 5.60.

Montijo, Praça da República

You’re away from the crowds…and it is really a pleasure walking around here.

Montijo , a lazy afternoon, September 2009, Rua Guerra Junqueiro. Not one tourist in sight! Coffee (bica) euro 0,60.

Alcochete , Samouco beach

From Montijo, take a bus to Alcochete centre and walk 15 minutes to Samouco beach  (YouTube).  You can enjoy watching pink flamingos or egrets (white heron) near the Reserva Natural of the Tagus river, which is famous for the birds.

Of course in July and August there are more tourists. On the background: Lisbon and the ‘twin towers’, Parque das Nações.  Alcochete, like Sintra, has in the past been a popular haunt for royalty, coming here to relax and holiday. The town’s foundation dates back to the 7th century, after the Moors conquered Lisbon. Its name derives from the Arabic word for kiln, as there have been many found in the area. Bullfighting also has a history here, and bulls are still let loose in the streets during the Barrete Verde and Salinas Feasts (the second weekend of August).

Fitness exercises at the beach…. ! On de background: Vasco da Gama Bridge

Near the beach there’s a small cafe. Very nice people!  Typical Portuguese snacks and drinks: coffee (bica) 0,60, glass of beer 0,60, Portwine 1 euro. Glass of whiskey 2 euro.

By car it’s ca. 30 minutes from Lisbon to Alcochete beach. The wonderful Vasco da Gama Bridge connects Alcochete and Montijo with Lisbon.

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 November 11, 2009, what a wonderful sunny day! Lunch in restaurant ‘Peixenalinha‘,  Bafureira beach, Av. Marginal.

In summertime São Pedro do Estoril beach is very crowded and this region is also a popular surf spot .

On the background: Cascais, one of the favourite tourist destinations in Portugal.

Our choice: 2 Couvert Bafureira (bread, butter, olives and paté) € 4.00; Risotto al Funghi (mushrooms)  € 15.50; Taglioninni Nero Gambas (shrimps) € 14.00; small bottle of wine (Vinho da Casa) € 7.50.

By car this beach is about twenty minutes to thirty minutes away from the center of Lisbon. You go along the “Marginal” (the name of the road), in direction to “Cascais” . About half way across the “marginal” you get signs of  “S. Pedro do Estoril’. Free parking for approximately 200 cars.

Restaurant Peixenalinha, Praia da Bafureira,  São Pedro do Estoril. Email: peixenalinha@gmail.com. Tel. (00351) 214685389. Highly recommended!

Outside or inside dining, Open: every day from 12:30 – 15:30/19:30 – 00:30; there’s also a dining area open to smokers and a Sushi restaurant. 

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Who’s watching who? Picture: Abilio Leitao

The famous Oceanarium (Oceanário) in Lisbon is the largest aquarium in Europe, with over one million visitors per year. The main tank contains approximately 5000 litres of water! A remarkable but hidden world with creatures weird and wonderful. The guided tours are a powerful educational tool that covers a broad range of scientific knowledge and stimulates learning about the oceans.

Picture: Carla Robalo Martins. Himantura uarnak (Honeycomb stingray)

The Lisbon Oceanarium website (also in English) includes all the info you need about opening hours, exhibiotions, prices and how to get there. Located in Parque das Nações (Park of the Nations), at the south end of Doca dos Olivais, a wonderful area for children! The Oceanarium Center also promotes a range of sporting activities, like canoing, windsurfing and sailing for children and adults.

There’s lots of possibilities to bike, roller skate, skate or walk by the river, and there are many green spaces for playing ball.  More information and highlights

Pavilion of Knowledge. Picture Fernanda Sampaio

Also located in this Park is The Pavilion of Knowledge (Pavilhão do Conhecimento), an interactive science and technology museum that aims to make science accessible to all, stimulating experimentation and exploration of the physical world. There are interactive blocks as well as recreation and formative areas reserved for children. See, do and learn!

Located in the city center, the Lisbon Zoo (Jardim Zoológico) has one of the best zoological collections in the world: more than 2.000 animals and 350 different species approximately, lodged in areas increasingly similar to their natural habitats. Many of them come from former Portuguese colonies like Brasil and Africa. You can watch the dolphin’s bay show or feeding time for the sea lions, and ride a cable car.

Picture: Joaquim Alves Gaspar. Two Pot-bellied pigs (Sus domesticus) resting at the Lisbon Zoo

A complementary area located at the entrance of the Zoo, the “Animax’ fair, is free of charge and has a variety of rides including the carousel, the seagulls, the crazy helicopter, as well as restaurants, shops and resting areas. Website with opening times and entry costs

Parque dos Índios (Indians Park) , located in Benfica

One of the best parks for children in Lisbon with scenic views and two different areas: for younger children, aged up to 5, and for those aged 6 to 12. This is a park with a pretty landscape, offering a good place for adults to rest at the outdoor cafe. The space is wide, allowing you to watch the kids having fun. More pictures….

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