WonderfulLargo do Carmo is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon: beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!
Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017
This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.
Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.
Largo do Carmo Lisbon
Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution
The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano(former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’sreplacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of theCarnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..
Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974
The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos)
was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.
Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).
Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755
Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno ÁlvaresPereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died.
Nowadays historic area Mouraria is a multiculti and lively area filled with very cheap taverns. Not a noisy touristic área; there’s some traffic driving through the narrow one-way streets.
Journalist Pedro Rita will give you the keys by arrival in Lisbon
From the airport (8 km), a taxi will take you (about € 10-12 ) in 15 minutes to my apartment.
Also easy to reach by metro. Nearby places: Sintra, Estoril, Cascais and beaches of Costa da Caparica.
Mouraria apartment Lisbon & room October 2017
From the apartment it is less than a 15 minutes walk to popular and vibrant area Bairro Alto, Lisbons heart of funky bars and restaurants.
Mouraria is a ancient area in the heart of Lisbon wherefadowas born.
Though it’s very far south, Lisbon’s Atlantic breezes keep it generally a little cooler than other cities on the same latitude. June is probably the best summer month to visit, especially since the Saints’ festivalsfall then. Spring and fall are very pleasant, warm, and sunny. Winter tends to stay warm too, but the rain can be relentless.
Apartment in area Mouraria Lisbon: room November 2016
Facilities: living-room, 3 bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen and pátio (30 m2)
living room with comfortable bank and table with 4 chairs (Linum) and 2 comfortable chairs. Satellite TV, radio/CD-player, WiFi. Double glazed windows.
3 sleeping rooms with comfortable beds and windows (quiet). 6 people can sleep comfortably. New duvets and luxury duvet-covers (Essenza);
Chicco babybed plus mattrass ( 0-4 years), little baby bath;
bathroom with tub, shower, wc, bidet, washing machine and dryer (free use). Towels, hairdryer;
kitchen with 2 fridges, micro-wave, 4-burner-electric-cooker, pans, coffee-maker, fruit juicer, (wine) glasses, plates, cutlery, kitchen-linen, 2 tablecloths, etc.;
outside: sunny (from March – October) and quiet patio. Large wooden table, 6 comfortable chairs, 2 bamboo chairs, 1 relax chair and 2 parasols. 2 BBQs;
heating in all rooms via Heatwafer ecopanels, mobile airco.
3-bedroom apartment in historic area Mouraria Lisbon: bathroom
Bathroom with tub, toilet, bidet, washing machine and dryer (free use)
Apartment Mouraria Lisbon: Paula Ferreira takes care of the cleaning
Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes
The ceilings of this former ‘guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.
Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…
Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon
The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?
National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden
History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style
While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz(Palácio in Portuguese, you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil. The information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.
National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary
Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies
Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.
From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.
In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.
National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & some tourists , June 2017
Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story
Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747. He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.
But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.
National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies
1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire
When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……
National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms
Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia
Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children
Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.
National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom
After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortexmagazine, WikiPedia
Several Moviesand TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.
Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.
National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017
Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail
Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquinainvented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor(a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.
As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She diedat the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54. It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.
Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree & graffiti knitting
Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors.
In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti
September 2017: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia (delicious!) among others, and homemade cakes.
Our lunch: entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; umcopo de vinhotinto (a glass of red wine) € 2,60; um copo de vinho branco (a glass of white wine) € 2,60, small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.
September 2017: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons
Mix and match of antique furniture
Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.
When entering it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another greater room. ‘The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).
Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls
Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!
British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.
Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces
Restaurant/Cervejaria “Farol” (lighthouse) is just by the ferry-terminal, the food is finger licking good! We enjoyed a fresh dourada(sea bream). A Cervejaria is a ‘beerhouse’, where beer is produced (or used to be produced) and where you can eat as well. There are many cervejaria’s around and in Lisbon and the quality of the food is normally very good.
From restaurant ‘Farol’ you can walk along the river to the elevator to reach the famous Cristo Rei statue and enjoy the wonderful view on downtown Lisbon.
Abandoned and ruinous old warehouses in Cacilhas, Lisbon on the other side of the river Tagus
Elevator to Cristo Rei Statue
After passing some abandoned and ruinous very old warehouses (wonderful old buildings!) and 2 restaurants: ‘Atire-te-ao-rio’, which means ‘throw yourself into the river’, and restaurant Ponto Final, you can go by elevator to reach the Cristo Rei statue.
A sweeping view of the city and Ponte 25 de Abril (25th of April Bridge) from the top of the 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’. View from Cristo Rei Movie
You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.
While walking around in area Príncipe Real in Lisbon we discovered Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero. One of the most beautiful terraces in the city, just near the Botanical Garden (Jardim Botânico, one of Europe’s finest!)
Italian restaurant Zero Zero Lisbon, lovely outdour dining area & friend Margriet de Vrieze
Restaurant Zero Zero has one of Lisbon’s most beautiful terraces in the city center. We feel a bit like being in the heart of Italy, in the shade of bougainvilleas and the scent of flowers. A part of he terrace is covered with a canopy made of (I guess) willow branches, creating a lovely filtered sunlight.
Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero Lisbon: delicious food
Starter Fried Squid (Entrada Frittura di Calamari), eggplant, carrot and broccoli€ 9.00; Salade Caprese with Mozzarella € 8.00; Salade Couscous with gambas € 12.00; small bottle of water € 1.50; 2 glasses of white wine (Trebbiano Marche) € 6.00. 2 cafe Espresso € 2:00
Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero Lisbon & beautiful terrace with bougainvilleas
Restaurant Zero Zero does not accept reservations but in case you have to wait for a table you can taste a variety of Italian cheeses and hams in the little deli shop at the entrance of the restaurant. My experience: when you arrive for lunch around 12:30, there are plenty of tables available, also outside.
Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero Lisbon, June 2016
Pizza Formaggiosa € 10.50: tomato, mozzarella Fior di latte (written also as fiordilatte, made from fresh pasteurized or unpasteurized cow’s milk), gorgonzola, spinach and nuts. Pizza Cappriccio € 12.00: ham, cheese and mushrooms; Salade Couscous with gambas € 12; glass of white wine (Trebbiano Marche) € 3.00.
Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero Lisbon & inside pizza oven
Pizza is not one of my favorite dishes, but my friends loved the great quality. ZeroZero offers 15 pizza choices and besides there are lots of vegetarian options. If you eat inside you can see pizzas being made. The service was done with care and sympathy!
Restaurant Zero Zero Lisbon September 2017: friend Marinus Broere & delicious tiramisu (€ 5)
‘00′ or Zero Zero
All the ingredients come from the best Italian producers, especially the Venice region.
The secret is in the dough, Zero Zero’ pizzeria uses a ‘balanced mixture of flour ’00’ and some other flours.
That’s why the name of this fine restaurant: ‘00′ or Zero Zero 😉
Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero Lisbon: small deli shop at the restaurant’s entrance
More than a restaurant
Zero Zero is assumed to be Lisbon’s first Proseccheria‘ , thanks to the Prosecco bar at the entrance and their classic cocktails.
Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero Lisbon: NV Lissabon September 2017
Small deli shop
At the entrance of the restaurant there’s also a small deli where a variety of Italian cheeses, hams and delicacies can be bought in order to bring to your table or to take-away.
Italian restaurant & pizzeria ZeroZero Lisbon: small deli shop at the restaurant’s entrance
If you like to visit one museum during your stay in Lisbon make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art.
Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria, Pâtisserie) Versailles Lisbon september 2017
Elegant tea- and lunchroom Versailles (from 1922)
After visiting the Gulbekian Museum, a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the famous Portuguese Pasteis de natas.
Elegant setting in informal and friendly atmosphere
The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…!
Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.
Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 : NV Lissabon
When lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 in the year 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon.
Construction fury first halve of 20th century
The construction fury replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylish houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today’s unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, but happily Pastelaria ‘Versailles’ is still there! 🙂 🙂
Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 & NV Lissabon
Silver-plated tea sets
The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass.
As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea sets. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate.
Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon , February 2017 & NV Lissabon
‘Grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ & part of national heritage
Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the ‘grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ was recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662.
Lunch, served in a back room, is of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.
Park Eduard VIIin Lisbon is popular: people from all over the world make amazing photos from the top of the park. It is also really worth it to visit the Greenhouseat the end of the park and the kiosk with a terrace where you can enjoy your coffee or lunch. Great place for families with children!
Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (litt. the Cold House), November 2016
The Estufa Fria de Lisboa is an eight hectare greenhouse that was erected in 1933 by architect Raul Carapinha, located in Eduardo VII Park, one of the most important parks that exist in the city. It is one of the most visited sites, by both students and tourists. MAP
Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (litt. the Cold House), November 2016
The Greenhouse, initially thought out as a place to simply shelter various types of plants, it has become one of the most pleasant green spaces in Lisbon, where you can spend a few enjoyable hours between lakes, waterfalls, brooks, statues and hundreds of different plant specimens from all over the world. A place that gives its visitors a sense of tranquility and well being.
Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria, November 2016
Lisbon Greenhouse & three different areas
This Greenhouse is managed by the Lisbon City Council and is divided into three different areas: (Estufa Fria), litt. the cold house, without heating system; Estufa Quente (the Hot House), with glass dome, and the smaller Estufa Doce, (Sweet House), where cactusses are grown.
Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (the Cold House), November 2016
The Greenhouse’s history
The Estufa Fria started being planted in 1910, as a part of the urban plan of the Park Eduaro VII. In 1975 the ‘Hothouse’ and the ‘Sweet House’ were open to the public. These new exhibitions had tropical and equatorial plants on permanent display.
Wonderful! Lisbon Greenhouse & Estufa Fria (the Cold House), November 2016
This is not the first time we went here for lunch, because my friends Alexandra Tops and Margarethe de Vrieze recommended this lovely place in the park where you can order good food for affordable prices.
The pavilion is a venue for temporary exhibitions, while a small permanent exhibition on Carlos Lopes displays the great runner’s trophies and equipment, including the shoes he wore during the Los Angeles Olympic marathon in 1984.
When you visit Lisbon , don’t miss the opportunity to visit Cacilhas, the south bank of the river Tagus (Tejo). The views on downtown Lisbon and the 25 April Bridgeare amazing! Take the ferry from Lisbons’ Cais do Sodré(every 10 minutes, weekend every 20 min.) to the other side of the river Tagus, a 10 min trip. (Return ticket : ca. 4 euro).
As you get off the ferry, it takes about 15 minutes to walk along the river to Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’, after passing lots of ruinous warehouses.
Abandoned and ruinous warehouses, Cacilhas (Almada), Lisbon
Picture: Svetlana Borodina
Cacilhas used to be a bustling area for a long long time when shipping and fishing were still major economic activities in Portugal.
Restaurant Ponto Final’s terrace at lunchtime in June
You will love the typical Portuguese menu. Fish, meat and great Portuguese wines.
€20/25 a person incl. wine. Quite reasonable prices if you consider the view! If you’re not in the mood for food, just relax, order a coffee or a glass of wine (bottle from € 7.50) and enjoy the scenery.
Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ & lunch with friends Svetlana and Sergy Borodin from Prague
We enjoyed olives, ripened cheese from Alentejo, cod salad with chick-pea, octopus salad, dogfish soup, a delicious bottle of restaurant Ponto Final’s housewine, sweet rice and a custard dessert.
Bill for 3 persons 58.50 euro.
Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ Lisbon May 2015: Sophie Lever and Jurre Schöttelndreier
Very good Portuguese cuisine. Especialidade da Casa (specialty of the house): arroz de Tamboril (rice with monkfish), Entrecosto Assado no Forno (roasted ribs) and Peixe Fresco Grelhado (grilled fresh fish). The wine list has a quality assortment of Portuguese wines.
View 25 April Bridge
It can be rather windy along the river Tagus, so don’t forget a sweater in case you like to have dinner here. Or, order a bottle of wine and a starter, enjoy it outside for at least a glass, then move inside for the main dish.
A warm summer evening while the sun is fading….whow!
Restaurant ‘Ponto Final’ is a perfect romantic location for a great dinner overlooking Lisbon by night. Make sure that you book a table outside in advance.
The 82m (270ft) high pedestal (by elevator). This enormous monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’.
You can go back to the Cacilhas ferry terminal by bus # 101.