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After the city of Lisbon was hit by an outbreak of cholera in 1833, causing thousands of deaths,  it was urgent to create a large cemetery for both rich and poorer victims. It has the weird name of  Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’, called after the nearby neighborhood (Prazeres) with the same name. Many of its tombs are big mausoleums, some with the size of small chapels.

Once you enter the cemetery the sound of the city fades and the tranquility overwhelms you. Beautiful trees, a strange atmosphere and joyful singing of birds. You imagine yourself walking in a previous century, only disturbed by plane noise, rather loud, every 10 minutes. The cemetery is located close to the landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport. As far as I know nobody here seems to complain

Most of the Prazeres mausoleums belong to rich, old or ‘important’ families, like f.i. the Palmela family. Many of the mausoleums are richly elaborated, have fine sculptures and decorations. There are also statues of the deceased. It’s like a ‘city in a city’ for the dead, with well-defined lanes (70! ) and funerary chapels that were built to look like little houses.

The unusual about a lot of these graves is that they have little “front doors” with glass windows through which you can see the caskets and remnants of the dead and their visitors. Most of the trees are a species cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), much used in Portuguese cemeteries.

The cemetery also provides great views over the Alcântara valley, the river Tagus and the 25 April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

Until 1985, the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was burried here. Thereafter his mortal remains were transferred to the cloisters of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

An example of a ’front door’ with glass windows through which you can see the caskets.

The cemetery, one of the largest of the Portuguese capital, can be reached by taking Electrico 28, which is a traditional and charming Lisbon tram, to its last stop in Prazeres. Open every day of the week from 09:00 – 17:00 (May – September 09:00 – 18:00). Largo dos Prazeres, Praça São João Bosco  More about cemeteries in Portugal

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But it’s really worth taking a ferry at Cais do Sodré  to Montijo, walk around in this picturesque village, have lunch and take a bus to the centre of Alchochete and walk to the beach called Samouco (ca. 15 min.)

Beautiful views: Lisbon city and the 25 April Bridge. 

The ferry trip to Montijo takes about 20 minutes and give you a chance to enjoy the river and the views of Lisbon and the surrounding areas. Return ticket: euro 5.60.

Montijo, Praça da República

You’re away from the crowds…and it is really a pleasure walking around here.

Montijo , a lazy afternoon, September 2009, Rua Guerra Junqueiro. Not one tourist in sight! Coffee (bica) euro 0,60.

Alcochete , Samouco beach

From Montijo, take a bus to Alcochete centre and walk 15 minutes to Samouco beach  (YouTube).  You can enjoy watching pink flamingos or egrets (white heron) near the Reserva Natural of the Tagus river, which is famous for the birds.

Of course in July and August there are more tourists. On the background: Lisbon and the ‘twin towers’, Parque das Nações.  Alcochete, like Sintra, has in the past been a popular haunt for royalty, coming here to relax and holiday. The town’s foundation dates back to the 7th century, after the Moors conquered Lisbon. Its name derives from the Arabic word for kiln, as there have been many found in the area. Bullfighting also has a history here, and bulls are still let loose in the streets during the Barrete Verde and Salinas Feasts (the second weekend of August).

Fitness exercises at the beach…. ! On de background: Vasco da Gama Bridge

Near the beach there’s a small cafe. Very nice people!  Typical Portuguese snacks and drinks: coffee (bica) 0,60, glass of beer 0,60, Portwine 1 euro. Glass of whiskey 2 euro.

By car it’s ca. 30 minutes from Lisbon to Alcochete beach. The wonderful Vasco da Gama Bridge connects Alcochete and Montijo with Lisbon.

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The price for eacht ticket is € 20 for adults and € 10 for children.

These Tagus river boat trips are onboard of a renovated, traditional ‘Cacilheiro‘, the boats that, in former times, ferried the local population across the river. This type of ferry is called “cacilheiro” because it connects Lisbon to Cacilhas (Almada) on the south side of the river.

Praça do Comércio, June 2009

The trips are organised by Transtejo, starting at Praça do Comércio ferry terminal, at the foot of the hill dominated by the Castle of São Jorge (Castle of Saint George) and the historical neighborhood Alfama.

Alfama and The National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like Amalia Rodrigues, the very famous fado singer.

São Rafael ‘twin towers’

Parque das Nações (Park of the Nations) is a modern, commercial and residential area. The Vasco da Gama is a multi-story shopping centre, around 200 stores selling a full range of products. Many attractions built for the Expo ‘98 remained and keep drawing visitors, such as the Oceanarium, one of the world’s biggest aquariums.

Ponte 25 de Abril (25th of April Bridge) and Christo Rei (Christ the King) Statue

The enormous Christo Rei monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’. How to get there

Chef máquinista (engineer) João Celestina Silva and Antonio Duarte (captain)

The boats have a capacity of 279 people. Two of the four saloons are open air and all have a bar (one free drink) and tourist information available in various languages, provided by the stewards on board.

Torre de Belém

The Belém Tower was built in the early sixteenth century in the Portuguese late-Gothic style, the Manueline. This defensive, yet elegant construction has become one of the symbols of the city, a memorial to Portuguese power as it was during the Age of Discovery. In 1983, it was classified, together with the nearby Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery), as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Belém, Monument to the Discoveries

Padrão dos Descobrimentos, the famous monument that celebrates the Portuguese who took part in the Age of Discovery of the 15th and 16th centuries, located on the estuary of the Tagus river where ships departed to their often unknown destinations.

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The location, right next to the river Tagus, is an ideal place to take just a coffee or a beer after a walk in the center of Lisbon, a typical Portuguese lunch or a romantic night and dinner for 2….

The very old wooden building of the restaurant has a long history.  It was built in 1904, used by the Fiscal Guards (Guarda Fiscal) as an observation post to watch the ‘contrabando’ (smugglers) who arrived by boat from overseas.

Inside the restaurant you can see a picture of the original building.

Three times a fire destroyed parts of the building. In the 30’s it was rebuilt and during the second World War, it was used for operations in support of Jewish people, trying to catch a boat to America. (Portugal was a neutral country).

José Carlos Viejas, the owner of Restaurant ‘Guarda Rio‘ since 1994, and the very friendly waiter Carlos Antunes.

My lunch; a delicious grilled dorado (also known as dolphin-fish) 9 euro, a glass of white wine (um copo de vinho branco) 2,00, small bottle of water (agua) 1:00.

José Carlos Viejas: “in 1994 I bought this place. Due to the fire that destroyed the building it was rebuilt from scratch, going to host a nice coffee house/restaurant with two floors and large windows to show how beautiful the Tagus is”.

September 2008

There are 2 terraces just above river level, one is covered.

Restaurant Marisqueira Guarda Rio
Rua da Cintura Armazem 22, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon
Antigo Pavilhão da Guarda Fiscal
Thursday, Friday and Saturday open from 11:00h/02:00h
Monday – Wednesday from 11:00/ 24:00h
Sunday from 19:00

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Here you can enjoy the restaurant, the nightclub (Fridays and Saturdays, 1am to 5am) and the bars, where ambience music alternates with live music shows. There are four bars (smoking and non-smoking) and lounge areas with large comfortable chairs.

Downstairs, the enormous place is divided into a smoking and a non-smoking lounge area (20-25 people in each area), also offering the possibility for a romantic dinner. If you wish you can have dinner upstairs, there’s also a cosy bar and an elegant lounge for dining.

The crew is very professional and dynamic. Dulcineia Miranda (r). The bars of BluesCafé offer a comfortable and cosy atmosphere. A glass of house wine €2, beer €3 to €5.

On Fridays and Saturdays disco opens at 01.00 until 05.00 am. The musical choice includes the commercial hits of the moment, disco, Latin and the eighties. More… Blues‘ interior is richly decorated with mahogany and palm trees (some of which reach almost the ceiling). There’s an outdoor terrace overlooking the yacht harbour of Lisbon.

Angelia Oliveira

The international recognised cuisine offers next to various dishes, 5 menus (one vegetarian) €42 – €49, Portuguese wines from different regions €5,50 – €98 a bottle and, for a special occasion, champaign (Moet et Chandon) €70 – €250 (Dom Perignon Vintage).

We enjoyed clams and mussels ceviche €11,75, Coquilles St. Jacques €9,25, ‘Voodoo’ chicken’ €10,50 and veal sirloin steak with rose pepper sauce €16,50.

The white house wine is a Portuguese gem: Lisa, produced on the slopes of Serra da Arrábida, Sado region, €9,50 a bottle.

One of the delicious desserts (Portugese: sobremesas): paper-thin crispy pastry with strawberries and ice cream €5,50.

June 2009. The Dutch Portuguese Chamber of Commerce monthly business drink

The yacht harbour of Lisbon. Blues Cafe, part of a row of former warehouses, on the leftside.

Blues, Rua Cintura Porto Armz H Nave 3, 1200 Lisbon.
blues@bluescafe.pt
Restaurant open from 20:00pm – 01:00am
Bar: 20:00 – 04:00 am
Closed Sunday and Monday. Tel. 00351 213957085

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From this beautiful garden a marvelous view across the Alcântara harbor area to the Tagus can be enjoyed. Open from Wednesday – Sunday 10:00 – 18:00.

It’s really worth the time to wander through the sculptured garden after visiting the beautiful Museum or take a break for a drink or a lunch.

The self service restaurant inside the building serves daily plates for students and the Museum’s staff, but also as a visitor you can put together a meal of your choice to enjoy in the garden. 

Here there are great views of the port of Lisbon, the Docas (nightlife area of town) the April 25th bridge and Christo Rei statue.

Plate of the day (prato do dia): lasagna €6.50, cod fish (bacalhau) €6.50, salad €1.50.

Beautiful sculptures! View on the the Alcântara harbor, port of Lisbon cruise ships docking and the Santos area.

April 25 bridge and Christo Rei statue.

The main entrance lies on the west side of the building on the Jardim 9 de Abril .The Museum, spread through 60 rooms, has been housed since 1884 in a palace built by Count Alvor in 1690 in which the Pombal family later lived for some time. Both the name of the street and the common nickname for the museum, ‘Casa das Janelas Verdes’ (house of green windows) originate from the building’s shutters which were formerly painted green.  More…..

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga  Rua das Janelas Verdes. 

Opening hours Tuesdays: 14h00-18h00
Wednesday to Sunday: 10h00-13h00 and 14h00-18h00 (closed on Holidays)

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Definitely one of the coolest bars of the city! You can get there from Rua da Costa do Castelo, the neighborhood of The Castle of St. Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge).

Sergio Curto: ‘O Terraço’ opened about two years ago, the building belongs to the government. We also serve some snacks, toast and ‘2 plates of the day’. Opening times: daily from 12:00 – 24:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00 – 01:00.’  Caipirinha: € 4, Mojito € 5 , a secret recipe

Update September ‘09: ‘O Terraco’ , one of Lisbon’s beloved terrace cafés, has just closed and in a few months a new restaurant will take its place. More….

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Partying in the small street around the famous Bica funicular, near Bairro Alto , one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 13th, Lisbon turns into one big party! More….

Bica funicular Rua Loreto. Lisbon has three working street funiculars: Lavra, Gloria and Bica, which allow its citizens and visitors to move to and from its hilly districts more easily. All are operated by Carris, (including timetables and funicular’s history) the Lisbon city transport undertaking.

Five minutes walk from here is a beautiful viewpoint over the River Tagus: ‘Adamastor’, a popular gathering place in Lisbon, which is officially called the  ‘Miradouro de Santa Catarina’ .

Just below the small Adamastor square, you will find the fantastic terraces of cafe/ bar Cafe Noobai , certainly one of the favourite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city!

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Walking from Praça do Comércio in the direction to Alfama, you will get to Rua dos Bacalhoeiros. The famous 28 tram (electrico) passes here on its way to the Santa Apolonia station.

This part of the street is really beautiful. The small restaurants with a terrace outside are popular; even in wintertime when the sun is shining you can enjoy a beer or have lunch outside.

My favorite terrace, just near ‘Casa dos Bicos’ is ‘Adega do Atum (tummy)’, a small restaurant with a few tables on the pavement at the front, close to the road near the Tagus river. The waiters are very friendly and not too agressive. They serve excellent traditional fish and meat meals and have the Portuguese Sagres beer on tap (imperial). Try ‘Salade de Atum’ (€ 7 ) for lunch!

Casa dos Bicos (House of the pointed stones). This Palace was built in the early 16th century, a notable part of Lisbon’s heritage and one of the few examples with traces of the 15th C. architecture. The residence was built by the Albuquerque family. From 1981 to 1982, Casa dos Bicos was the site of excavations, many archaelogical findings were unearthed (ceramic and glass pieces a.o.). The upper two floors were destroyed by the earthquake in 1755 and were only rebuilt in the 1980s. Worth a visit!

You will find various tourist shops in this street. Silva & Feijó, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 117/118 on the other side of Casa dos Bicos, sells a.o. wines and typical Portuguese handicrafts.

Lunchtime in Lisbon. This part of the street is filled with lots of restaurants, from traditional Portuguese to Chinese. A Churrasqueira is a restaurant serving grilled meat or fish, many offering as much as you can eat: the waiters move around the restaurant with the skewers, slicing meat onto your plate. Frango de Churrasco with piri piri (a kind of salty roasted chicken spiced with hot red chili sauce) is very popular.

Restaurant Churrasqueira Santo António. Carlos Marcalo, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 133, invites you to try their ‘espetada‘, a typical Portuguese dish made of large chunks of fish or beef rubbed in garlic and salt with vegetables such as onions and bell peppers. 

Luís Vieira.

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery), nr 34. Wonderful very old preserved-fish store with hundreds of colourful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish. This shop opened 80 years ago, nothing has changed.

Rua do do Comércio , “The shit of today will fertilize the morning…” building drawing, just around the corner of Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and Rua da Madalena.   More……

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‘Adamastor‘ or Miradouro de Santa Catarina ( More information on this website) is one of the favourite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors, and also the nearby cafe/restaurant Noobai.

Close to Miradouro de Santa Catarina you can go for a walk to the waterfront of the Tejo river. Rua de Santa Catarina  in the afternoon, a typical Lisbon street.

A very smart way to park your car

View on the Tagus River from Rua Fernandes Tomas

At the end of Rua Fernandes Tomas towards the river you cross Rua Boa Vista (Street with a beautiful view), a lively street with lots of shops, typical Portuguese restaurants and bars.

Avenida 24 de Julho, just in front of the river Tejo. The beautiful building of the Mercado do Ribeira (market near the river, since 1882) is topped with a Moorish-style dome. This market is worth a visit! ‘from hot ‘piri-piri to funeral flowers’

On the waterfront, near Cais do Sodré. Women are selling fresh fruit.

The river Tejo, Cais do Sodré , Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation and ferry terminal to Cacilhas, Seixal, Montijo and ferries to Trafaria and Porto Brandão (near the white and unspoilt beaches of Caparica).

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