November 11, 2009, what a wonderful sunny day! Lunch in restaurant ‘Peixenalinha‘,  Bafureira beach, Av. Marginal.

In summertime São Pedro do Estoril beach is very crowded and this region is also a popular surf spot .

On the background: Cascais, one of the favourite tourist destinations in Portugal.

Our choice: 2 Couvert Bafureira (bread, butter, olives and paté) € 4.00; Risotto al Funghi (mushrooms)  € 15.50; Taglioninni Nero Gambas (shrimps) € 14.00; small bottle of wine (Vinho da Casa) € 7.50.

By car this beach is about twenty minutes to thirty minutes away from the center of Lisbon. You go along the “Marginal” (the name of the road), in direction to “Cascais” . About half way across the “marginal” you get signs of  “S. Pedro do Estoril’. Free parking for approximately 200 cars.

Restaurant Peixenalinha, Praia da Bafureira,  São Pedro do Estoril. Email: peixenalinha@gmail.com. Tel. (00351) 214685389. Highly recommended!

Outside or inside dining, Open: every day from 12:30 – 15:30/19:30 – 00:30; there’s also a dining area open to smokers and a Sushi restaurant. 

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A Friday afternoon, around 16:00. Ramiro is open from 12:00 till midnight, so if you like to come in at 17:00 you’re welcome!

Portuguese love there seafood with beer (or with ice cold vinho verde , young wine). You can order big shrimps (gambas or camarão tigre), scampi (lagostim) and crab (sapateira). Cooked fresh seafood tastes fantastic with mayonaise, grilled seafood goes very well with ‘molho de limão’. This is a sauce of butter, lemon and a bit of piri-piri.

Pedro Miguel P. Gonçalves, manager restaurant ‘Ramiro’ : “You may start by tasting the delicious dark smoked ham “Pata Negra 5, J Sanchez Romero Carvajal”.

Gamba Cozido (€10.83),  Pao Manteiga (hot buttered bread €2.55), agua (S. Pellegrino (€1.50), Carne Lombo (steak sandwich € 3,60), small bottle of white wine (Plenalto €5.50), coffee (€0.90).

My favorite dish: Camarão à Guilho (garlic shrimp). If you’re only in the mood for a snack, try a ‘prego’ , a steak sandwich. The steak is grilled on the plate. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one) with mustard or piri-piri.

History : The Ramiro Beer house was founded on the 7th of April of 1956, by the hand of Ramiro’s father, being a small “pasture house”. With the passing of the years Mr. Ramiro, having a main role within the business, slowly introduced seafood. This concept aroused a great interest creating a beer house (Cervejaria). Joined by his wife they amplified and improved the space focusing uniquely on the concept of seafood house: the selling of seafood, ham and “steak sandwich” . Today it is known nationally and abroad for its excellent quality of raw-materials, for its level of service and for the price-quality relationship. More….website restaurant Ramiro

I can sincerely recommend this place! If you are more in the mood for a restaurant with red candles and soft music, you might be disappointed, but upstairs you can make a reservation for a romantic ‘table for 2′.

‘RAMIRO‘, Avenida Almirante Reis 1 G-H, Intendente, Lisbon. OPEN on Sundays!

TAKE AWAY. Call at +351218851024 and order a seafood meal. Order before (24 Hours). The restaurant is closed at Mondays.

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The Press Club’s restaurant is set in a very charming 18th century building with a lovely inner-garden. The kitchen offers creative Mediterranean food (vegetarian friendly) and the wine cellar is representative of the portuguese winemaking tradition. Located in the centre of Lapa, Rua das Trinas 129. 

The inner-garden

‘Clube de Jornalistas’ is a perfect venue for group gathering or a celebration. Journalists and eating out go hand in hand, so Lisbon’s ‘Clube’ was a natural progression for local chef and Co-owner André Magalhães with his years of media experience.

The excellent wine list is also served by André Magalhães, a leading light in the slow food movement and a talented food & wine journalist, writing for Wine Passion magazine, Beer Passion, Lisbon Golden Guide, Slowfood and others.

We enjoyed outside dining in the wonderful quiet inner-garden, surrounded by trees and flowers. Restaurant ‘Clube de Jornalistas’ is a mixture of old Portuguese architecture and modern cuisine with an exotic touch.

One of the dining rooms inside

‘The Club’ was founded in 1986. During the Salazar period (Salazar was a dictator who ruled Portugal from 1931 to 1970), the Casa da Imprensa in Chiado was a secret meeting place. After the revolution, some of the members went on to found the ‘Clube de Jornalistas’.

Tuna “escabeche” with fried portuguese polenta and clam sauce (14.50 €)

Clube de Jornalistas, Lapa/Estrela
Rua das Trinas 129
1200-857 Lisbon
+351 213 977 138
Open: Monday through Saturday 12.00-02.00

Carpaccio of Tuna from the Azores, wild rocket and S. Jorge cheese (10.00 €) house-smoked duck breast and sauteed Pears (12.00 €)

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The restaurant’s entrance and the beautiful patio of the Palácio da Independência  (Palace of Independence), located near Rossio Square on the north side of the Largo de São Domingos. The building’s foundation stone was laid in 1509 and some of Manueline details from this time can still be detected in the inner courtyard, for example the door decorations. The two conical kitchen chimneys are reminiscent of the royal palace at Sintra.

Paulo Saraiva de Reffóios (with sunglasses): “Recently I started (February 2009) this restaurant. I used to work as a hotel director for 20 years but besides I always had a real passion for Portuguese gastronomy and for many years I enjoyed cooking for friends”. “At the moment you are welcome to enjoy a (Portuguese) lunch here (June 2009), dining is possible on request from 12 persons”.

The other 2 gentlemen are José Cardoso (and daughter Filipa) and Henrique Santos, ‘Lucinda Tudo Bom’ wine producers. At the table a delicious bottle of Douro wine: Fraga Alta (High Crag) Douro Doc 2003. If you wish you can order online.

My friend Erika and Paulo Saraiva de Reffóios, the very friendly and always joking restaurant owner. Our choice for lunch: salada de rucola com requeijao (salad with cream cheese) € 8; salmão fumada com boulgour (smoked salmon with bulgur) € 12; agua (water) € 2,50; um copo do vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 2,50; bread and delicious salted butter € 3.

If you wish you can enjoy your lunch inside of this beautiful building.

The name Palácio da Independência (’Independence Palace’) recalls a curious event that occured in 1640: a conspiracy against the Spanish occupation. If you are in Lisbon you can visit the palace each Friday, at 15:00. More…….

The walls of this former palace are decorated with beautiful azulejos (Portuguese tiles).The azulejo is a form of Portuguese painted, tin-glazed, ceramic tilework. They have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. Azulejo comes from the Arabic word az-zulayj, meaning polished stone.

Wherever you go in Portugal, azulejos are to be found inside and outside cafes, churches, palaces, ordinary houses and even ceilings, train- or subway stations. Many azulejos chronicle major historical and cultural aspects of Portuguese history.

‘Chaminés do Palácio’, Largo de Sao Domingos 11. chaminesdopalacio@gmail.com

Tlm (0351) 919450754

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The location, right next to the river Tagus, is an ideal place to take just a coffee or a beer after a walk in the center of Lisbon, a typical Portuguese lunch or a romantic night and dinner for 2….

The very old wooden building of the restaurant has a long history.  It was built in 1904, used by the Fiscal Guards (Guarda Fiscal) as an observation post to watch the ‘contrabando’ (smugglers) who arrived by boat from overseas.

Inside the restaurant you can see a picture of the original building.

Three times a fire destroyed parts of the building. In the 30’s it was rebuilt and during the second World War, it was used for operations in support of Jewish people, trying to catch a boat to America. (Portugal was a neutral country).

José Carlos Viejas, the owner of Restaurant ‘Guarda Rio‘ since 1994, and the very friendly waiter Carlos Antunes.

My lunch; a delicious grilled dorado (also known as dolphin-fish) 9 euro, a glass of white wine (um copo de vinho branco) 2,00, small bottle of water (agua) 1:00.

José Carlos Viejas: “in 1994 I bought this place. Due to the fire that destroyed the building it was rebuilt from scratch, going to host a nice coffee house/restaurant with two floors and large windows to show how beautiful the Tagus is”.

September 2008

There are 2 terraces just above river level, one is covered.

Restaurant Marisqueira Guarda Rio
Rua da Cintura Armazem 22, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon
Antigo Pavilhão da Guarda Fiscal
Thursday, Friday and Saturday open from 11:00h/02:00h
Monday – Wednesday from 11:00/ 24:00h
Sunday from 19:00

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Avenida da República near Saldaña square. A must-do is to have breakfast or lunch in the wonderful old tea- and lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles (opened in 1922) which has it’s own bakery.

Praça Duque de Saldaña. Monument of the great liberal Marshal who gives the square its name. Designed by Thomaz Costa and Ventura Terra, unveiled in 1909. The base of the monument contains a bronze figure of victory. At Saldaña Square there’s the highly frequented cinema Monumental where many young Portuguese meet in the bar of the cinema, ‘Movies’ .

Famous restaurant Galeto, a classic spot. Avenida Da República, 14. Open from 07.30 am – 03.30 (!). Delicious food and quite cheap (dinner and snacks). Galeto is well known in Lisbon for its friendly and courteous service.

Market mercado de Arroios , fresh fish, flowers and fruit. Arroios is a very atmospheric working class neighborhood with great markets and very good prices in restaurants and shops.

Estefania: a nice and very quiet area, with lots of typical Portuguese small business ‘mom and pop’ and food shops.

Rua Ilha da Terceira, Estefania. To eat out, try the pastelerias (cheap small restaurants, great Portugese food). Not one tourist in sight…..Chiado, Baixia and Alfama are easily reached by public transport, and even at night a taxi isn’t more than 5 euros.

The bill? Grilled salmon 5,50 euro, soup 0,90. A glass of wine 0,75.

Luxury shopping center Saldanha, quite near Avenida da Liberdade, (Liberty Avenue). This broad boulevard is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees in Paris with lots of luxury boutiques selling international brands. 

Marquis of Pombals’ statue , a despotic marquis….more…..The Rotunda, or, officially, Praça do Marqués de Pombal

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Here you can enjoy the restaurant, the nightclub (Fridays and Saturdays, 1am to 5am) and the bars, where ambience music alternates with live music shows. There are four bars (smoking and non-smoking) and lounge areas with large comfortable chairs.

Downstairs, the enormous place is divided into a smoking and a non-smoking lounge area (20-25 people in each area), also offering the possibility for a romantic dinner. If you wish you can have dinner upstairs, there’s also a cosy bar and an elegant lounge for dining.

The crew is very professional and dynamic. Dulcineia Miranda (r). The bars of BluesCafé offer a comfortable and cosy atmosphere. A glass of house wine €2, beer €3 to €5.

On Fridays and Saturdays disco opens at 01.00 until 05.00 am. The musical choice includes the commercial hits of the moment, disco, Latin and the eighties. More… Blues‘ interior is richly decorated with mahogany and palm trees (some of which reach almost the ceiling). There’s an outdoor terrace overlooking the yacht harbour of Lisbon.

Angelia Oliveira

The international recognised cuisine offers next to various dishes, 5 menus (one vegetarian) €42 – €49, Portuguese wines from different regions €5,50 – €98 a bottle and, for a special occasion, champaign (Moet et Chandon) €70 – €250 (Dom Perignon Vintage).

We enjoyed clams and mussels ceviche €11,75, Coquilles St. Jacques €9,25, ‘Voodoo’ chicken’ €10,50 and veal sirloin steak with rose pepper sauce €16,50.

The white house wine is a Portuguese gem: Lisa, produced on the slopes of Serra da Arrábida, Sado region, €9,50 a bottle.

One of the delicious desserts (Portugese: sobremesas): paper-thin crispy pastry with strawberries and ice cream €5,50.

June 2009. The Dutch Portuguese Chamber of Commerce monthly business drink

The yacht harbour of Lisbon. Blues Cafe, part of a row of former warehouses, on the leftside.

Blues, Rua Cintura Porto Armz H Nave 3, 1200 Lisbon.
blues@bluescafe.pt
Restaurant open from 20:00pm – 01:00am
Bar: 20:00 – 04:00 am
Closed Sunday and Monday. Tel. 00351 213957085

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Casa do Alentejo was created 85 years ago, as a purpose to be a meeting place for people from Portugal’s historical province Alentejo (além Tejo means beyond the Tagus) and to cultivate its unique culture. At that time many people from this region left home in search for a better life in Lisbon.

The palace dates from the last quarter of the 17th C., but its current appearance is a result of considerable alterations carried out in 1918. Nowadays here’s the headquarters of the association of the Alentejo people.

The ballroom. Today many activities take place here: on Saturdays the ‘Alentejo afternoons’ (tardes Alentejanas), with choral groups. On Sunday, the dancing begins at 3;30 pm. Mostly elderley people come here to socialize. There’s also a library and a handicraft shop of typical products of Alentejo (downstairs).

The dining rooms are picturesque, with open fireplaces and decorated with beautiful tiles (azulejos). The azulejo is a form of Portuguese painted, tin-glazed, ceramic tilework. They have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. Azulejo comes from the Arabic word az-zulayj, meaning polished stone. Wherever you go in Portugal, azulejos are to be found inside and outside cafes, churches, palaces, ordinary houses and even ceilings, train- or subway stations. Many azulejos chronicle major historical and cultural aspects of Portuguese history.

Portugese appetizers are on the table when you arrive. Be prepared: in the more expensive and touristical restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarão). They are not a part of the meal! You won’t pay for them if you don’t eat them, and often the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The restaurant in Casa do Alentejo is very popular, all the ingredients are straight from the Alentejo.  The average price of a 3-course meal is 20 euro. Small bottle of wine: 4.50 euro. My choice: ‘bife de atum‘, (tuna fish steak, 11.50 euro and really good!

Several elderly Portuguese are reading, talking or snoozing peacefully in the library…..

Casa do Alentejo, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58. Opening hours: 12pm to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm every day, closed on Sunday. Tel: 00 351 – 21 346 92 31
E-mail: casadoalentejo@mail.telepac.pt

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If you like visit one museum make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art

After visiting the Gulbenkian Museum a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the Pasteis de natas. The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.

When Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon. Remaining a courageous resistant to the construction fury that replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylisch houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today's unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, where 'Versailles' is....

The Pastelaria also knew how to resist to the fast-food wave that assaulted many of the most well-known cafes and pastry shops in Lisbon, transforming them into uncharacteristic places where people can only grab a fast meal. The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass case.

Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the 'grande dame' of Lisbon' coffeehouses, was quite recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662. Lunch, served in a back room, is a full meal of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.

As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea services. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate. It's open daily from 7:30am to 10:00pm. Metro: Saldanha.

Window dressing Pastelaria Versailles, Avenida da Republica 15a
Lisbon

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Soft background music like French chansons or jazz, create an atmosphere like being in a French bistro in the 70s.

Traditional Purtuguese cooking, but besides they serve French Cuisine, Moroccan- and Mexican dishes. Excellent service.

Owner of  restaurant ‘Merca Tudo’ Guiomar Noronha: “11 years ago I opened this restaurant and I still love this place. Before that I was working for a travel agency and traveled a lot”.

“My background is half Spanish: my grand-grand mother married a Spaniard, they lived in Santa María del Mar. Don Angel and Linda Castro immigrated from Spain to Cuba. The Castros owned and lived on a 32.000-acre sugar plantation in the Oriente Province in Cuba. They had 2 boys: Fidel and Raoul Castro”.

Ementa (menu card). Merca is the short word for Mercado (Market), Tudo means all or everything.  Guiomar Noronha: “This picture is about 300 years old. I found it by coincidence in a very old newspaper in a bookshop”.

 ”The beautiful creamy fridge is from 1932 (!) and still working fine! It used to work on gas and the inside consists of marblestone. Sometimes it costs me a lot of trouble finding a part for the fridge, but I would never want to get rid of it”.

You can win a taste of Ginja if you manage to throw a coin in a small glas inside a big bottle filled with water. My friend Erika just throwed her coin into the bottle and… yes!

We enjoyed: two steaks au poivre € 30 ; two Greek salads (salada Grega) € 3 ; one bottle of great Portugese wine (Monte Velho) € 10, two coffees € 2:50. Sobremesa (desert): one delicious Bolo Árabe (with almonds & pumpkin ) € 4.

Excellent venue for a relaxed informal dinner, max. capacity of 50 people. Our experience was absolutely lovely!

Merca Tudo, Rua do Merca-Tudo 4, 1200, Lisbon.  Open from 20:00 – 02:00. Closed: Sunday. Phone 00351 21 396 93 68. Email: restaurantemercatudo@gmail.com

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